Check the spoke tension, trueness and roundness. You can check relative tension by plucking the spokes like a harp. In a front wheel all the spokes should ring out at the same pitch and should not be a dull thud- it should be a fairly bright note. Tension can be checked with a tensiometer, as well, but an experienced wheelbuilder could check without very quickly. Put the wheel in a truing stand or in the fork and sight along the brake pads as a guide to trueness and roundness as you spin it slowly.
Tim On Apr 24, 2013, at 9:38 AM, john wrote: > > Is there a way to test the wheel? Test the hub? A set of criteria a mechanic > can focus on which would say: "yes, this hub - or wheel - isn't quite right"? > > On Tuesday, April 23, 2013 8:57:12 PM UTC-7, Reid wrote: > I once replaced a front wheel with a similar "professionally built" wheel on > a road bike with 27" wheels. Suddenly the bike shimmied. After much > aggravation, I found that the newly built wheel had "settled in," meaning it > had become the tiniest bit "flexy." Another wheel builder tightened it up to > spec and all was well. > > Reid > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en-US. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
