I've enjoyed the power pole debate, somewhat.  The simple answer is that no
one solution fits every installation the best.  

 

The power pole is a great 'solution' for many installations, and is probably
the hands down best for 'interoperability'.  I have migrated almost
everything to power poles, even the 'permanent' vehicle installations
because often I want to pull a radio out for some event or whatever, and it
is just damn easy.

 

Yes, you can put them together backwards from the published and accepted
standard, just as you can almost any other connector that you insert pins
and wires in (i.e. molex).  As the saying goes, you can't fix stupid.

 

Yes, they do not have the ability to stay connected under considerable pull
on the wire.  Thank God.  For the times I've fought and pulled on molex
plugs trying to dislodge them without messing up the little plastic tab or
pulling the wires out of the pins, I enjoy the simplicity of the power pole.

 

Yes, they can become separated and reassembled in a non standard way if care
is not taken, remember, you can't fix stupid.

 

Yes, they require care (selection of the proper size pin for the wire, use
of a professional crimping tool, and possibly soldering on high current
applications) but with proper installation they yield a good solution.

 

Yes, they are genderless, which is friggin awesome in the world of trying to
make up cables, extensions, adapters, splitters, etc. for portable/emcomm
use.  

 

Yes, there are ready made splitters, distributions busses, fused panels,
etc. available which are invaluable in the emcomm tool box to take to the
field.  I take every 12v cig lighter type cord I get (DVD player, phone
charger, spot light, etc.) and immediately snip it and insert power poles.
It works fine if needed for the accessory plug (cig adapter) but can quickly
be disconnected and put onto any power pole situation.

 

So, here is my summary:

 

1.      Assemble the housings in the standard RACES/ARES configuration,
adding a drop of your Krazy glue or similar prior to sliding them together.
The roll pin that is available causes the housing to spread and doesn't do
as good of a job.

2.      Crimp the PROPER sized connector for the wire used with the correct
crimping tool.  Careful soldering on high current applications may decrease
the micro resistance in the crimp, and will keep corrosion from increasing
the resistance.

3.      Push the pin in the housing until it clicks properly into place, tug
firmly to be sure the pin is latched in place and wire is secure.

4.      If you join a pair and are afraid it might come lose, either use the
clip to secure them together or wrap a skinny wire tie around them to make
sure they don't come lose.

5.      We once did a voltage drop test and even at 25 amps, it was very
negligible.  Seems to me the technician compared it with the molex
equivalent and used quality test gear to measure.  After that, he converted
over to them when he was sure they were of good quality.

 

We've converted two repeater sites over to rigrunner fused distribution
panels, and made fitted all the radios systems with power poles.  No
failures, no over heating, no weakness that we've seen yet.  And service is
easy, pull the equipment out of the rack, sit it on the workbench where we
have power pole distribution from the power supply and fire it up.

 

Simply..if you don't like them, they don't use them.  No one is forcing you,
stick with your molex plug or what have you and enjoy!  Our two portable
emergency repeaters are equipped with them as well.  Every power supply I
have on the shelf for loan or test has a pigtail on it with power poles, it
is just simple and fast.

 

Enjoy!

 

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