Brian, As Ed mentions there a number of considerations to consider.
Kodak and Fuji have dropped several of their films for obvious reasons.
Therefore I'm not sure what they have and what is easily available where
you're at. Also understand there are two grades of film--those normally
used by amateurs and those used by pros. It's mainly a factor of
quality control and storage before you purchase it.
If you want to keep things simple go with a color negative film.
Purchase the slowest film you can comfortably use--160 ASA is common for
hi-quality work. I never liked the higher grain of the faster films,
nor the color pallet.
The color negative film can be scanned easily for use in email and for
final reproduction in magazines. Once it's in digital form it can be
worked on, color balanced, resized, etc. if your willing to do the
work. If you just want some prints to show friends that will work too.
The thing to remember about color balance is never mix light sources.
For instance if you have a couple of windows and regular tungsten lights
you will get a color shift that can never be corrected. If you add in
fluorescent tubes things will get worse. Daylight will be blue,
tungsten yellowish and fluorescent tubes generally greenish. The
solution is to shoot at night to eliminate the daylight, turn off the
fluorescent lights and perhaps buy a couple of simple clamp on lights to
keep everything in the tungsten range.
Bob Werre
BobWphoto.com
ed_loizeaux wrote:
> > I have an old 35mm camera and want to take some model railroad pics of
> > my trains. Any thoughts on which film type would work best
> > - Brian Empanger
>
> Brian...I am not an expert either, but you probably need to define your
> end goal and lighting environment more precisely before you can
> intelligently select the best film. For instance, do you want prints
> or slides? Slides are best for sending to magazines for publication,
>
> better end result. Have fun...Ed L.
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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