Brian; I might add to Bob's excellent comments, that unless you are using a flash, you really need a tripod shooting indoors under existing light.
In a pinch, to substitute for a tripod, I have used chairs, ladders, boxes, anything to steady the camera during the usually necessarily slower shutter speeds. Roy Inman From: Bob Werre <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: [email protected] Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 15:32:21 -0500 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Re: 35mm film Brian, As Ed mentions there a number of considerations to consider. Kodak and Fuji have dropped several of their films for obvious reasons. Therefore I'm not sure what they have and what is easily available where you're at. Also understand there are two grades of film--those normally used by amateurs and those used by pros. It's mainly a factor of quality control and storage before you purchase it. If you want to keep things simple go with a color negative film. Purchase the slowest film you can comfortably use--160 ASA is common for hi-quality work. I never liked the higher grain of the faster films, nor the color pallet. The color negative film can be scanned easily for use in email and for final reproduction in magazines. Once it's in digital form it can be worked on, color balanced, resized, etc. if your willing to do the work. If you just want some prints to show friends that will work too. The thing to remember about color balance is never mix light sources. For instance if you have a couple of windows and regular tungsten lights you will get a color shift that can never be corrected. If you add in fluorescent tubes things will get worse. Daylight will be blue, tungsten yellowish and fluorescent tubes generally greenish. The solution is to shoot at night to eliminate the daylight, turn off the fluorescent lights and perhaps buy a couple of simple clamp on lights to keep everything in the tungsten range. Bob Werre BobWphoto.com ed_loizeaux wrote: > > I have an old 35mm camera and want to take some model railroad pics of > > my trains. Any thoughts on which film type would work best > > - Brian Empanger > > Brian...I am not an expert either, but you probably need to define your > end goal and lighting environment more precisely before you can > intelligently select the best film. For instance, do you want prints > or slides? Slides are best for sending to magazines for publication, > > better end result. Have fun...Ed L. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
