The first problem is that many users don't follow the directions, and use the 
Goo as glue, not a contact adhesive. Using it as described should allow a 
majority of the solvent to evaporate before the parts are placed together.

That said, I tend to avoid Goo when plastics are involved. Elmers made a water 
soluble contact adhesive that I preferred, but I have not seen it in a while.

Pieter E. Roos


--- On Fri, 4/29/11, JGG KahnSr <[email protected]> wrote:

> From: JGG KahnSr <[email protected]>
> Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Dissolving Goo
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Friday, April 29, 2011, 1:48 PM
> 
> My chemical expertise didn't continue past high school
> (although I should have taken chemistry in college instead
> of physics for my lab science, but 
> eighteen year olds can't be told anything--they know it all
> already), but that makes sense, as if acetone is a solvent
> for Goo, the agent that evaporates
> from Goo is chemically similar if not identical.  Most
> of the AM freight cars I bought from the Hoquat estate sale
> had the sheet steel weight Gooed to
> the floor, generously-applied, and each had warped
> accordingly.  I had to pry them apart (no acetone on
> styrene!), scrape it all off, reshape the floors
> and re-Goo--very sparingly--while clamping the floor and
> weight together.  So far it seems to have worked.
> Jace Kahn 
> General Manager 
> Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. 
> 
> 
> > > IIRC, Acetone should be what you want, though it
> will
> > adversely affect  some plastics. 
> 
> > As, over time, will Goo- 
> > I've learned from experience.  Pliobond seems to
> be somewhat less
> > destructive, though I'd be cautious with either.
> > Stan Stokrocki



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