There are lots more adhesive options available now than in the early days of model railroading; the resin-based glues from Borden (and Titebond) seem designed for porous/permeable surfaces rather than smooth ones like styrene or metal. I did try some of this Aileen's tacky glue which some lists have extolled, but it didn't seem designed for plastic, either. Goo was designed for creating a bond between dissimilar surfaces, especially wood and metal, with the rubbery agent itself providing the bond after the solvent had dissipated, before epoxy and ACC were developed. It still has its uses, but fewer now that better products are to be had. Jace Kahn General Manager Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co.
> To: [email protected] > From: [email protected] > Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 12:05:31 -0700 > Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Dissolving Goo > > The first problem is that many users don't follow the directions, and use the > Goo as glue, not a contact adhesive. Using it as described should allow a > majority of the solvent to evaporate before the parts are placed together. > > That said, I tend to avoid Goo when plastics are involved. Elmers made a > water soluble contact adhesive that I preferred, but I have not seen it in a > while. > > Pieter E. Roos > > > --- On Fri, 4/29/11, JGG KahnSr <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: JGG KahnSr <[email protected]> > > Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Dissolving Goo > > To: [email protected] > > Date: Friday, April 29, 2011, 1:48 PM > > > > My chemical expertise didn't continue past high school > > (although I should have taken chemistry in college instead > > of physics for my lab science, but > > eighteen year olds can't be told anything--they know it all > > already), but that makes sense, as if acetone is a solvent > > for Goo, the agent that evaporates > > from Goo is chemically similar if not identical. Most > > of the AM freight cars I bought from the Hoquat estate sale > > had the sheet steel weight Gooed to > > the floor, generously-applied, and each had warped > > accordingly. I had to pry them apart (no acetone on > > styrene!), scrape it all off, reshape the floors > > and re-Goo--very sparingly--while clamping the floor and > > weight together. So far it seems to have worked. > > Jace Kahn > > General Manager > > Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. > > > > > > > > IIRC, Acetone should be what you want, though it > > will > > > adversely affect some plastics. > > > > > As, over time, will Goo- > > > I've learned from experience. Pliobond seems to > > be somewhat less > > > destructive, though I'd be cautious with either. > > > Stan Stokrocki > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
