I have not ever burned out a Flyonel motor, but I may not tax them as much as some. I put quite a few cars behind them but I rarely run one over 10 minutes solid. I have melted the wheel contacts off of an AM Baldwin unit though.
One of the things I do with a new Flyonel engine I am planning on running myself on my layout is to break in the motor. I like to make sure that the worm drive is free and lubricated well. I have seen some of these that when they press the nylon worm on the drive shaft that the fit is such that it causes a hairline crack in the nylon worm. This is usually detectable without taking anything a part as it shows up as a pulsing when running just the engine slow. Once I am sure everything is free, not cracked and lubricated I hook up alligator clips and run the motor at a very slow speed with the wheels only in the air I do this both forward and backward for about 30 minutes. This seats the motor in with no load and reduced amperage pull. It would actually be better to do this with the motor disengaged from the drive train, but I don't go to the trouble. The high performance electric R/C car racers and the electric R/C plane jockeys actually will drive their motors with a pair of batteries D cell (3.v) with the motor suspended in a glass of water. This flushes out the residue as the brushes seat and keeps the temperature low as well as preventing pitting of brushes and commutators due to arcing. They actually run the motor until the D cells are dead. This can increase the performance of a cheap can motor by as much as 30%. ----Greater efficiency means less heat..... They then dry the unit and re-lubricate the bearings S-Trains list sponsor: http://www.americanflyertrains.com All the Flyer you desire...books and accessories too! To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list send a note to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
