Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 2005 Mercedes S500 1 Lady Owner 78k Miles Immaculate

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Tue, 12 Feb 2019 20:41:38 -0700 Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Why would this be $2000? Sketchy?
>  
> > 2005 Mercedes S500 1 Lady Owner 78k Miles Immaculate
> > 
> > https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/6818124060.html


"This posting has been flagged for removal."

The answer to your question: Scam!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 2005 Mercedes S500 1 Lady Owner 78k Miles Immaculate

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

Never mind...removed already, scam tactic.

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 12, 2019, at 8:41 PM, Bob Rentfro  wrote:
> 
> Why would this be $2000? Sketchy?
> 
> Bob R
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> 
>> 2005 Mercedes S500 1 Lady Owner 78k Miles Immaculate
>> 
>> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/6818124060.html
>> 
>> Please go to the preferences page if you don't want to receive 
>> email-a-friend messages in the future. 
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[MBZ] Fwd: 2005 Mercedes S500 1 Lady Owner 78k Miles Immaculate

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

Why would this be $2000? Sketchy?

Bob R

Sent from my iPad

> 
> 2005 Mercedes S500 1 Lady Owner 78k Miles Immaculate
> 
> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/6818124060.html
> 
> Please go to the preferences page if you don't want to receive email-a-friend 
> messages in the future. 
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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 I've had poor luck with the regular red Sta-bil, at one point I had a bottle 
that clotted, there were little red blobs floating around. What do you do when 
your stabilizer needs stabilizer?That said I've got a bottle of blue marine 
Sta-bil at camp thats probably 5 years old and seems fine.I mostly use Seafoam 
gas additive. I put 1oz in each gallon of gas when I buy it and another 1oz per 
gallon in anything being stored. Since doing so I've had way fewer problems 
both in the equipment at camp that sits all winter and the snowmobiles that sit 
all summer.
-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 8:31:01 PM EST, Larry Turner 
 wrote:  
 
  Yeah, push button is nice.  but the battery wasn't charging properly on 1 jan 
(the date it died) and we started it with the pull rope - started instantly 
which surprised me.  Also, I may have a compression release because it pulled 
so easy.
 
 Yeah, waiting til Spring would be ideal, but here in Va we have snow.ice in 
the winter than Hurricanes in the Summer/Fall. So it's hard to say when we'll 
need one again.  Like I mentioned, we bought this one in 2012 and only used it 
for (I think) 24-30 hours in ~2014, then again the 1st of this year when it 
started instantly but died after about 6 hours.  
 
 Va. kind of strange with odd weather.  Sometimes we get hit hard with 
Hurricanes then Ice storms and both take out the power.  Our neighborhood has 
underground power but it has to get here...
 
 on yours, I would think the needle and jet may be damaged because of the 
Ethanol.   I talked to our local small engine shop who told me that was a large 
part of their business.  
 
 Anyway, got to use Sta-Bil as I'm sure you know  
 
 Thanks,
 Larry
 
 
 
 On 02/12/2019 3:54 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
  
 
 Thats a pretty big one. Electric start is pretty nice.
  
  If you don't need it right away the best time to look is in spring. Somebody 
buys a generator during an outage and in the spring gets rid of it because they 
"Won't need that again." or they bought one 2 years ago, the gas got some water 
in it and it won't start. IIRC thats how Fred got the generator I have. 
  Which reminds me I need to take my 1200w generator apart, it'll run okay but 
is difficult to start, I'm sure the carb needs cleaning. Its got barely any 
time on it and has sat a lot.
  
  -Curt
  
  On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 3:47:53 PM EST, Larry Turner 
 wrote:  
  
 Hi Curt, 
 It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have been 
unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish.  It's called a B&S Type 
2100 w/elec. start, if interested.  
 
 Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl engine 
or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price was right.  My 
existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc the case.
 
 The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag Supply.  The 
Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the need is often inversely 
proportional to the preparedness which dates back to one of Murphy's many Laws.
 
 Thanks for the options...
 
 Larry
 
 On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote
  
 
 What size is the generator? If it were me I'd either 
  
  1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a fraction 
of the new price 
  2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. We have 
one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its been great. Cheap too.
  
  3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ option #2 it 
will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH quieter, probably use less fuel 
too. 
  If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I have a Fred 
who gave me a generator which currently lives at my in-laws house. I attribute 
it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't lost power this year...
  
  -Curt
  
  On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
  
   Hi Guys,
 Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator. 
 following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the 
 tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery 
 and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking 
 and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least 
 that was a cheap option.
 
 What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one 
 of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had 
 completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a 
 hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals 
 are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the 
 piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be 
 seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the 
 hole was not moving as I turned the engine.
 
 So it appears I will have

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

A common 3x5 index card between the magneto and flywheel works pretty good for 
setting the gap.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of MG
> via Mercedes
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2019 3:21 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Cc: MG 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question
> 
> How about using some of that aluminum solder rod that the AC people use to
> solder the aluminum lines in AC units. You could solder the perch right back
> onto the case. You may even be able to build it up a bit to make it hold 
> better.
> Should be stronger then JB weld.
> I used some to fix a hole in the condenser joint on the 123 last year and it 
> has
> worked great so far. Got it at a welding supply store. It was only about $28 
> for
> 5 sticks. If I remember right they have different formulations for strength. 
> Just
> takes a propane torch to do the job.
> 
> Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:
> > I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some kind of 
> > JB-
> Weld attached perch for your coil.
> > Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my
> > welding the crankcase back together on my tiller when it threw a rod
> through the side?
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> > ___
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> >
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Jim,
    Wow!  You have managed to perfectly describe my social scene, my 
financial status and how I manage my time (and some other stuff I 
suspect).   Yikes, it's spooky!

You're quite the Savant!
;-)
Larry

On 02/12/2019 5:17 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

When talking to your friends and neighbors, which is more satisfying?

1) I bought another generator
2) I bought a parts generator and made one out of two
3) I bought a new harbor freight engine for my generator
4) I fixed the broken block on my generator with JB-Weld

#4 also doesn't really cost anything but your time, and some of us have plenty
of that to allocate to the entertainment budget.  You just have to be willing 
for
it not to work out, but even that gives you a bunch of entertainment and leaves
you with three other choices.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Cool!  That's actually the exact size/configuration I need!  I'll watch 
HF for their sales.  Thanks for the heads up!


Larry

On 02/12/2019 4:56 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
If you are looking for a new engine you might want to look at Harbor 
freight. If you buy at the right time you could get 25% off or more. 
Right now their 420cc horizontal shaft engine is $360. Wait for a sale 
and it will go down.


I bought a 6 hp engine to replace the 30 year old B&S cast iron one on 
my log splitter because it was having a lot of starting problems. With 
the new engine it starts at the first pull and runs a lot stronger due 
to the overhead valves rather then the old L head that B&S used for so 
long. Have had it for 2 years so far, it works great and for less then 
$75 after sale and discount. Will it last 30 years? Who cares. A new 
B&S probably won't either and costs a whole lot more.



Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hi Curt,
It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have 
been unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish. It's called 
a B&S Type 2100 w/elec. start, if interested.


Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl 
engine or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price 
was right.  My existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc 
the case.


The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag 
Supply.  The Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the 
need is often inversely proportional to the preparedness which dates 
back to one of Murphy's many Laws.


Thanks for the options...

Larry

On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote

What size is the generator?
If it were me I'd either

1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a 
fraction of the new price


2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. 
We have one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its 
been great. Cheap too.


3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ 
option #2 it will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH 
quieter, probably use less fuel too.


If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I 
have a Fred who gave me a generator which currently lives at my 
in-laws house. I attribute it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't 
lost power this year...


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via 
Mercedes  wrote:



Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator.
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from 
the

tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad. At least
that was a cheap option.

What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found 
one

of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I 
must be

seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.

So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or 
such,
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap 
consistently.


It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I 
contacted

Troy-Bilt and B&S but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went
no further.  No joy in Mudville.

I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B&S engine but so far my search
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about
what to look for when I was troubleshooting.

Thanks again to all who helped...
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed 
increased

> or sound changed before shutdown...
>
> Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
> bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass 
through the
> main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... 
finally,
> water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and 
water,
> being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. 
Engine dies,
> restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main 
jet...

> fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..
>
> Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of floa

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

If one was loose it came that way from the factory.   I guess their QC 
program might be lacking...  One of the things that impressed me when I 
started taking things apart was how snug (tight actually) the fasteners 
were.  I'm sure there must be some torque wrench settings that aren't 
set properly.


Hmmm...  I better check the tightness of other fasteners when I try to 
repair the coil.


Thanks for the info about the coil!  I even have some brass feelers.

Larry

On 02/12/2019 4:07 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
The last time I did one of those air gap was .010 in. Should still be 
the same. Used to be a feeler gauge set always had a brass .010 blade 
on it for just that use. It probably doesn't matter too much other 
then a larger gap would make a weaker spark and too small a gap could 
cause the flywheel to hit the mag and knock it loose and put a hole 
into the case which sounds like what happened to your engine. Possibly 
one bolt not properly tightened?


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me!  Condolences.

Thanks for the suggestion!  I suppose I could fill the hole with JB 
and shape it so I'd have room to drill and tap it.  Then it would 
just be a matter of finding the right spacers and washers (which I've 
been "collecting" for 50 years) until I could adjust a air gap that 
would work.


How tight is the tolerance on the air gap?  Would I have much wiggle 
room or is it really precise, like points?


On 02/12/2019 12:52 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some 
kind of JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my 
welding the crankcase back together on my

tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Yeah, push button is nice.  but the battery wasn't charging properly on 
1 jan (the date it died) and we started it with the pull rope - started 
instantly which surprised me.  Also, I may have a compression release 
because it pulled so easy.


Yeah, waiting til Spring would be ideal, but here in Va we have snow.ice 
in the winter than Hurricanes in the Summer/Fall. So it's hard to say 
when we'll need one again.  Like I mentioned, we bought this one in 2012 
and only used it for (I think) 24-30 hours in ~2014, then again the 1st 
of this year when it started instantly but died after about 6 hours.


Va. kind of strange with odd weather.  Sometimes we get hit hard with 
Hurricanes then Ice storms and both take out the power.  Our 
neighborhood has underground power but it has to get here...


on yours, I would think the needle and jet may be damaged because of the 
Ethanol.   I talked to our local small engine shop who told me that was 
a large part of their business.


Anyway, got to use Sta-Bil as I'm sure you know  

Thanks,
Larry



On 02/12/2019 3:54 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Thats a pretty big one. Electric start is pretty nice.

If you don't need it right away the best time to look is in spring. 
Somebody buys a generator during an outage and in the spring gets rid 
of it because they "Won't need that again." or they bought one 2 years 
ago, the gas got some water in it and it won't start. IIRC thats how 
Fred got the generator I have.


Which reminds me I need to take my 1200w generator apart, it'll run 
okay but is difficult to start, I'm sure the carb needs cleaning. Its 
got barely any time on it and has sat a lot.


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 3:47:53 PM EST, Larry Turner 
 wrote:



Hi Curt,
It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have 
been unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish.  It's called 
a B&S Type 2100 w/elec. start, if interested.


Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl 
engine or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price 
was right.  My existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc 
the case.


The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag Supply.  
The Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the need is 
often inversely proportional to the preparedness which dates back to 
one of Murphy's many Laws.


Thanks for the options...

Larry

On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote
What size is the generator?
If it were me I'd either

1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a 
fraction of the new price


2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. We 
have one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its been 
great. Cheap too.


3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ option 
#2 it will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH quieter, 
probably use less fuel too.


If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I have 
a Fred who gave me a generator which currently lives at my in-laws 
house. I attribute it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't lost power 
this year...


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via 
Mercedes   wrote:



Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator.
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the
tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least
that was a cheap option.

What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one
of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be
seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.

So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such,
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.

It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted
Troy-Bilt and B&S but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went
no further.  No joy in Mudville.

I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B&S engine but so far my search
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about
what to look for 

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

You know, now that you mention it, I may have some of those alum rods to 
"braze" with - I think I have some that will melt using propane but I 
hopefully left the instructions with the rods.   I'll look tomorrow.


Think that'll stick to cast iron?  Pretty sure that's what the case is 
made of but I have the specs around here I can check.


Thanks for the suggestion!!

Larry

On 02/12/2019 3:20 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
How about using some of that aluminum solder rod that the AC people 
use to solder the aluminum lines in AC units. You could solder the 
perch right back onto the case. You may even be able to build it up a 
bit to make it hold better. Should be stronger then JB weld. I used 
some to fix a hole in the condenser joint on the 123 last year and it 
has worked great so far. Got it at a welding supply store. It was only 
about $28 for 5 sticks. If I remember right they have different 
formulations for strength. Just takes a propane torch to do the job.


Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:
I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some 
kind of JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my 
welding the crankcase back together on my

tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> electric cars are pretty much the only place I think a lease is a reasonable 
> consideration.

A retiring friend of mine just leased a Leaf for this very reason.  Prior to 
that he had driven an Axxess
for nearly 30 years, hence his liking for the marque.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Really, at this point #4 would be a no-brainer, as the investment in materials 
and time is minimal with a chance of a very positive result.

I would try it. WTH, why not?

-D


> On Feb 12, 2019, at 5:17 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> When talking to your friends and neighbors, which is more satisfying?
> 
> 1) I bought another generator
> 2) I bought a parts generator and made one out of two
> 3) I bought a new harbor freight engine for my generator
> 4) I fixed the broken block on my generator with JB-Weld
> 
> #4 also doesn't really cost anything but your time, and some of us have plenty
> of that to allocate to the entertainment budget.  You just have to be willing 
> for
> it not to work out, but even that gives you a bunch of entertainment and 
> leaves
> you with three other choices.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

When talking to your friends and neighbors, which is more satisfying?

1) I bought another generator
2) I bought a parts generator and made one out of two
3) I bought a new harbor freight engine for my generator
4) I fixed the broken block on my generator with JB-Weld

#4 also doesn't really cost anything but your time, and some of us have plenty
of that to allocate to the entertainment budget.  You just have to be willing 
for
it not to work out, but even that gives you a bunch of entertainment and leaves
you with three other choices.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[MG via Mercedes]

If you are looking for a new engine you might 
want to look at Harbor freight. If you buy at 
the right time you could get 25% off or more. 
Right now their 420cc horizontal shaft engine 
is $360. Wait for a sale and it will go down.


I bought a 6 hp engine to replace the 30 year 
old B&S cast iron one on my log splitter 
because it was having a lot of starting 
problems. With the new engine it starts at 
the first pull and runs a lot stronger due to 
the overhead valves rather then the old L 
head that B&S used for so long. Have had it 
for 2 years so far, it works great and for 
less then $75 after sale and discount. Will 
it last 30 years? Who cares. A new B&S 
probably won't either and costs a whole lot more.



Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hi Curt,
It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have 
been unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish.  It's called a 
B&S Type 2100 w/elec. start, if interested.


Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl 
engine or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price 
was right.  My existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc 
the case.


The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag Supply.  
The Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the need is 
often inversely proportional to the preparedness which dates back to one 
of Murphy's many Laws.


Thanks for the options...

Larry

On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote

What size is the generator?
If it were me I'd either

1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a 
fraction of the new price


2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. We 
have one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its been 
great. Cheap too.


3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ option 
#2 it will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH quieter, 
probably use less fuel too.


If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I have 
a Fred who gave me a generator which currently lives at my in-laws 
house. I attribute it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't lost power 
this year...


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via 
Mercedes  wrote:



Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator.
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the
tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least
that was a cheap option.

What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one
of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be
seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.

So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such,
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.

It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted
Troy-Bilt and B&S but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went
no further.  No joy in Mudville.

I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B&S engine but so far my search
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about
what to look for when I was troubleshooting.

Thanks again to all who helped...
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed 
increased

> or sound changed before shutdown...
>
> Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
> bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass 
through the

> main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
> water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and 
water,
> being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. 
Engine dies,
> restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main 
jet...

> fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..
>
> Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
> drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that 
is your

> problem..
>
> Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
> moi

Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes]

B class has a tesla eletric motor, not battery.  Big difference.

Jaime


On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 3:56 PM Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> *The Mercedes B-class apparently used a Tesla battery system, so that
> should be pretty close to the best you can get.*
>
> And a price tag to match.
>
> On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 3:34 PM Allan Streib via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes  writes:
> >
> > > A used Leaf or Spark is a bad choice because the batteries may need
> > > replacement at a huge cost?
> >
> > I'd trust the Spark more than the Leaf in that regard, as the Spark has
> > thermal management for the batteries and the Leaf does not.
> >
> > But in general I am also suspicious of used EVs. In theory the battery
> > pack should be good for a long time but I would definitely be worried
> > about remaining battery capacity in any high-mileage EV.
> >
> > Presumably there is a way to have it tested? Probably not at AutoZone,
> > but at the dealer?
> >
> > The Mercedes B-class apparently used a Tesla battery system, so that
> > should be pretty close to the best you can get.
> >
> > Allan
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
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> >
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> >
> >
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>

-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

There are at least 7 all electric models from existing manufacturers coming out 
this year. It will be interesting to see if any of those have solved the 
problems that have been discussed here.

https://electrek.co/2018/12/30/new-electric-vehicles-2019/

.

>  IIRC the suggested range for the Leaf is 100 miles. The kid at the 
> dealership told me 80 was a reasonable every day number (he had one). I 
> imagine in the extreme cold 40 would be a possibility. We don't get extreme 
> heat and in any case batteries don't lose capacity when hot the way they do 
> when cold...
> -Curt
> 
> On Monday, February 11, 2019, 8:43:03 PM EST, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:  
>  
>  realistically, that is probably 40.  The battrees are no longer new...  
> It is winter...
> 
> 
> Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote on 2/11/19 2:07 PM:
> > Depending on price, I might be interested, if you aren't.
> >
> > The range is 80-something miles, so comparable to a Nissan Leaf. OK for
> > around town and most people's commuting needs but that's about it.
> >
> > Allan
> >
> >
> 
> 
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>   
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-- 
arche...@embarqmail.com 

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[MG via Mercedes]

The last time I did one of those air gap was 
.010 in. Should still be the same. Used to be 
a feeler gauge set always had a brass .010 
blade on it for just that use. It probably 
doesn't matter too much other then a larger 
gap would make a weaker spark and too small a 
gap could cause the flywheel to hit the mag 
and knock it loose and put a hole into the 
case which sounds like what happened to your 
engine. Possibly one bolt not properly tightened?


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me!  Condolences.

Thanks for the suggestion!  I suppose I could fill the hole with JB and 
shape it so I'd have room to drill and tap it.  Then it would just be a 
matter of finding the right spacers and washers (which I've been 
"collecting" for 50 years) until I could adjust a air gap that would work.


How tight is the tolerance on the air gap?  Would I have much wiggle 
room or is it really precise, like points?


On 02/12/2019 12:52 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some 
kind of JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my 
welding the crankcase back together on my

tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

*The Mercedes B-class apparently used a Tesla battery system, so that
should be pretty close to the best you can get.*

And a price tag to match.

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 3:34 PM Allan Streib via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes  writes:
>
> > A used Leaf or Spark is a bad choice because the batteries may need
> > replacement at a huge cost?
>
> I'd trust the Spark more than the Leaf in that regard, as the Spark has
> thermal management for the batteries and the Leaf does not.
>
> But in general I am also suspicious of used EVs. In theory the battery
> pack should be good for a long time but I would definitely be worried
> about remaining battery capacity in any high-mileage EV.
>
> Presumably there is a way to have it tested? Probably not at AutoZone,
> but at the dealer?
>
> The Mercedes B-class apparently used a Tesla battery system, so that
> should be pretty close to the best you can get.
>
> Allan
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 Thats a pretty big one. Electric start is pretty nice.

If you don't need it right away the best time to look is in spring. Somebody 
buys a generator during an outage and in the spring gets rid of it because they 
"Won't need that again." or they bought one 2 years ago, the gas got some water 
in it and it won't start. IIRC thats how Fred got the generator I have.
Which reminds me I need to take my 1200w generator apart, it'll run okay but is 
difficult to start, I'm sure the carb needs cleaning. Its got barely any time 
on it and has sat a lot.

-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 3:47:53 PM EST, Larry Turner 
 wrote:  
 
  Hi Curt, 
 It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have been 
unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish.  It's called a B&S Type 
2100 w/elec. start, if interested.  
 
 Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl engine 
or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price was right.  My 
existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc the case.
 
 The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag Supply.  The 
Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the need is often inversely 
proportional to the preparedness which dates back to one of Murphy's many Laws.
 
 Thanks for the options...
 
 Larry
 
 On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote
  
 
 What size is the generator? If it were me I'd either 
  
  1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a fraction 
of the new price 
  2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. We have 
one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its been great. Cheap too.
  
  3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ option #2 it 
will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH quieter, probably use less fuel 
too. 
  If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I have a Fred 
who gave me a generator which currently lives at my in-laws house. I attribute 
it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't lost power this year...
  
  -Curt
  
  On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
  
   Hi Guys,
 Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator. 
 following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the 
 tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery 
 and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking 
 and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least 
 that was a cheap option.
 
 What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one 
 of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had 
 completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a 
 hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals 
 are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the 
 piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be 
 seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the 
 hole was not moving as I turned the engine.
 
 So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail 
 for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the 
 generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such, 
 but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.
 
 It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't 
 find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what 
 it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted 
 Troy-Bilt and B&S but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went 
 no further.  No joy in Mudville.
 
 I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B&S engine but so far my search 
 has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about 
 what to look for when I was troubleshooting.
 
 Thanks again to all who helped...
 LarryT
 
 On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
 > Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed increased
 > or sound changed before shutdown...
 >
 > Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
 > bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass through the
 > main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
 > water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and water,
 > being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. Engine dies,
 > restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main jet...
 > fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..
 >
 > Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
 > drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that is your
 > problem..
 >
 > Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
 > moisture then condense

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Curt,
It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have 
been unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish.  It's called a 
B&S Type 2100 w/elec. start, if interested.


Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl 
engine or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price 
was right.  My existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc 
the case.


The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag Supply.  
The Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the need is 
often inversely proportional to the preparedness which dates back to one 
of Murphy's many Laws.


Thanks for the options...

Larry

On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote

What size is the generator?
If it were me I'd either

1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a 
fraction of the new price


2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. We 
have one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its been 
great. Cheap too.


3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ option 
#2 it will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH quieter, 
probably use less fuel too.


If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I have 
a Fred who gave me a generator which currently lives at my in-laws 
house. I attribute it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't lost power 
this year...


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via 
Mercedes  wrote:



Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator.
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the
tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least
that was a cheap option.

What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one
of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be
seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.

So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such,
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.

It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted
Troy-Bilt and B&S but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went
no further.  No joy in Mudville.

I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B&S engine but so far my search
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about
what to look for when I was troubleshooting.

Thanks again to all who helped...
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed 
increased

> or sound changed before shutdown...
>
> Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
> bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass 
through the

> main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
> water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and 
water,
> being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. 
Engine dies,

> restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main jet...
> fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..
>
> Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
> drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that 
is your

> problem..
>
> Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
> moisture then condenses in to carb in droplets.
>
> On Sat, Jan 12, 2019 at 6:31 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:
>
>> The old way to manage the 'oil alert' shutoff was to short out the
>> ignition like an ignition switch does.
>> Some generators have a solenoid on the carb operated by the oil level
>> switch, usually through a control box.
>>
>> If the engine note changed before shutdown, the shutdown wasn't purely
>> electrical. Switching off the ignition just results in the engine 
coasting

>> to a stop and quickly.
>> But it might involve a fuel shutoff like is found on the 
carburetors of my
>> Subaru generator and the Briggs engine on my Trail Mower. The 
mixture would
>> go lean and then

Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes  writes:

> A used Leaf or Spark is a bad choice because the batteries may need
> replacement at a huge cost?

I'd trust the Spark more than the Leaf in that regard, as the Spark has
thermal management for the batteries and the Leaf does not.

But in general I am also suspicious of used EVs. In theory the battery
pack should be good for a long time but I would definitely be worried
about remaining battery capacity in any high-mileage EV.

Presumably there is a way to have it tested? Probably not at AutoZone,
but at the dealer?

The Mercedes B-class apparently used a Tesla battery system, so that
should be pretty close to the best you can get.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 Think of how far electric cars have come in the last 3-5 years. They'll 
probably progress that much in the next 3-5 years...Its funny to think of but 
electric cars are pretty much the only place I think a lease is a reasonable 
consideration. Often the lease terms are very favorable since the car makers 
are forced into making EVs. Also with limited range its unlikely you'll exceed 
the lease mileage limits.

-Curt


On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 3:15:36 PM EST, Andrew Strasfogel via 
Mercedes  wrote:  
 
 A used Leaf or Spark is a bad choice because the batteries may need
replacement at a huge cost?

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 3:00 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  You can't tell that from the inside. ;)
> The new Leaf isn't that ugly, the old was pretty bad, like a half squashed
> frog...
> -Curt
>
>    On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 2:47:18 PM EST, Jim Cathey via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
>  > I like it.  Spark or Leaf - which is the better choice for an EV under
> $10K
>
> Which one is less fugly?  The Leaf is one of the worst-looking cars I've
> ever seen.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[MG via Mercedes]

How about using some of that aluminum solder 
rod that the AC people use to solder the 
aluminum lines in AC units. You could solder 
the perch right back onto the case. You may 
even be able to build it up a bit to make it 
hold better. Should be stronger then JB weld. 
I used some to fix a hole in the condenser 
joint on the 123 last year and it has worked 
great so far. Got it at a welding supply 
store. It was only about $28 for 5 sticks. If 
I remember right they have different 
formulations for strength. Just takes a 
propane torch to do the job.


Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some kind of 
JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my welding the 
crankcase back together on my
tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

With all glues I like to use stronger filler and only gap-fill with glue.  So, 
find a nut or bolt that fits into your hole and glue that into place, etc.  I 
have no idea about the tolerances of the air gap, but I'm guessing it's a lot 
less fussy than points.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

A used Leaf or Spark is a bad choice because the batteries may need
replacement at a huge cost?

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 3:00 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  You can't tell that from the inside. ;)
> The new Leaf isn't that ugly, the old was pretty bad, like a half squashed
> frog...
> -Curt
>
> On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 2:47:18 PM EST, Jim Cathey via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
>  > I like it.  Spark or Leaf - which is the better choice for an EV under
> $10K
>
> Which one is less fugly?  The Leaf is one of the worst-looking cars I've
> ever seen.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] around town or the country club with there handsome style

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Seller says orient red.

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 2:12 PM Dwight Giles  wrote:

> Is that Mittel Rot? Friend of mine just got one like that.
>
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
>
> On Feb 12, 2019 11:10 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> What the??  The CD is stunning in that color.
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 10:03 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Bait and switch pricing
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> https://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/d/palm-coast-1984-mercedes-benz-300cdd/6817056848.html
>> >
>> > --
>> > --FT
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
>> >
>> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>> >
>> >
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>>
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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me!  Condolences.

Thanks for the suggestion!  I suppose I could fill the hole with JB and 
shape it so I'd have room to drill and tap it.  Then it would just be a 
matter of finding the right spacers and washers (which I've been 
"collecting" for 50 years) until I could adjust a air gap that would work.


How tight is the tolerance on the air gap?  Would I have much wiggle 
room or is it really precise, like points?


On 02/12/2019 12:52 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some kind of 
JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my welding the 
crankcase back together on my
tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 You can't tell that from the inside. ;)
The new Leaf isn't that ugly, the old was pretty bad, like a half squashed 
frog...
-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 2:47:18 PM EST, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 > I like it.  Spark or Leaf - which is the better choice for an EV under $10K

Which one is less fugly?  The Leaf is one of the worst-looking cars I've ever 
seen.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> I like it.  Spark or Leaf - which is the better choice for an EV under $10K

Which one is less fugly?  The Leaf is one of the worst-looking cars I've ever 
seen.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 I don't think a used EV is a good choice no matter the price...
-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 1:50:27 PM EST, Andrew Strasfogel 
 wrote:  
 
 I like it.  Spark or Leaf - which is the better choice for an EV under $10K

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 1:11 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 wrote:

 Better than a block heater since it warms the cabin...
-Curt

    On Monday, February 11, 2019, 9:22:08 PM EST, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
 wrote:  

 In the winter, pre conditioning has a big impact on range.  It heats up the
cabin and batteries while you're still plugged into a 230V source so you
don't have to use battery power to do it when on the road.  Its like a
modern day block heater.

Jaime


On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 8:43 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> realistically, that is probably 40.  The battrees are no longer new...
> It is winter...
>
>
> Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote on 2/11/19 2:07 PM:
> > Depending on price, I might be interested, if you aren't.
> >
> > The range is 80-something miles, so comparable to a Nissan Leaf. OK for
> > around town and most people's commuting needs but that's about it.
> >
> > Allan
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>

-- 
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Re: [MBZ] around town or the country club with there handsome style

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Is that Mittel Rot? Friend of mine just got one like that.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Feb 12, 2019 11:10 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> What the??  The CD is stunning in that color.
>
> On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 10:03 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Bait and switch pricing
> >
> >
> > https://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/d/palm-coast-1984-
> mercedes-benz-300cdd/6817056848.html
> >
> > --
> > --FT
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] 126 Manual

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

This may already be well known here but there are a bunch of W116
technical manuals at https://www.w116.org/tech/

(No affiliation).

Allan

Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  writes:

> I'm uploading the 126 CD manual to a google drive folder.  It is a bit 
> less than 1GB.  If anyone wants to download a copy I can link you to it, 
> let me know.
>
> I have 123 and 107 manuals on CD too, I'd have to rip them to the 
> computer then upload them too.
>
> -- 
> --FT
>

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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

I like it.  Spark or Leaf - which is the better choice for an EV under $10K

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 1:11 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  Better than a block heater since it warms the cabin...
> -Curt
>
> On Monday, February 11, 2019, 9:22:08 PM EST, Jaime Kopchinski via
> Mercedes  wrote:
>
>  In the winter, pre conditioning has a big impact on range.  It heats up
> the
> cabin and batteries while you're still plugged into a 230V source so you
> don't have to use battery power to do it when on the road.  Its like a
> modern day block heater.
>
> Jaime
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 8:43 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > realistically, that is probably 40.  The battrees are no longer new...
> > It is winter...
> >
> >
> > Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote on 2/11/19 2:07 PM:
> > > Depending on price, I might be interested, if you aren't.
> > >
> > > The range is 80-something miles, so comparable to a Nissan Leaf. OK for
> > > around town and most people's commuting needs but that's about it.
> > >
> > > Allan
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
>
> --
> Jaime Kopchinski
> http://www.jaimekop.com/
> ___
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>
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>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 What size is the generator?If it were me I'd either 

1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a fraction 
of the new price
2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. We have one 
at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its been great. Cheap too.

3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ option #2 it 
will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH quieter, probably use less fuel 
too.
If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I have a Fred 
who gave me a generator which currently lives at my in-laws house. I attribute 
it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't lost power this year...

-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator. 
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the 
tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery 
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking 
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least 
that was a cheap option.

What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one 
of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had 
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a 
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals 
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the 
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be 
seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the 
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.

So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail 
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the 
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such, 
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.

It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't 
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what 
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted 
Troy-Bilt and B&S but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went 
no further.  No joy in Mudville.

I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B&S engine but so far my search 
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about 
what to look for when I was troubleshooting.

Thanks again to all who helped...
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed increased
> or sound changed before shutdown...
>
> Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
> bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass through the
> main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
> water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and water,
> being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. Engine dies,
> restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main jet...
> fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..
>
> Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
> drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that is your
> problem..
>
> Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
> moisture then condenses in to carb in droplets.
>
> On Sat, Jan 12, 2019 at 6:31 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> The old way to manage the 'oil alert' shutoff was to short out the
>> ignition like an ignition switch does.
>> Some generators have a solenoid on the carb operated by the oil level
>> switch, usually through a control box.
>>
>> If the engine note changed before shutdown, the shutdown wasn't purely
>> electrical. Switching off the ignition just results in the engine coasting
>> to a stop and quickly.
>> But it might involve a fuel shutoff like is found on the carburetors of my
>> Subaru generator and the Briggs engine on my Trail Mower. The mixture would
>> go lean and then the engine would cut out when it got too lean to sustain
>> fire.
>>
>> But if it is the oil alert, is it because the oil level is low, the switch
>> is bad, the wiring is bad, or the 'black box' is bad?
>> I'd say step one is to make sure the oil level reads maximum.
>> Step two, shut off the fuel, take the hose off at the carb, put the end of
>> the hose in a container, and turn the fuel back on. Does the gas tank
>> supply fuel to the carb?
>> Step 3, put the plug wire on a loose spark plug and hold it while the wife
>> pulls the starter rope. If you say "yeow" and drop the plug, the ignition
>> is good. I used to use #3 as a last resort in my youth when working on
>> motorcycles and lawn mowers, but it's a fast and effective test.
>> After step 3 it ge

Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 Better than a block heater since it warms the cabin...
-Curt

On Monday, February 11, 2019, 9:22:08 PM EST, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 In the winter, pre conditioning has a big impact on range.  It heats up the
cabin and batteries while you're still plugged into a 230V source so you
don't have to use battery power to do it when on the road.  Its like a
modern day block heater.

Jaime


On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 8:43 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> realistically, that is probably 40.  The battrees are no longer new...
> It is winter...
>
>
> Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote on 2/11/19 2:07 PM:
> > Depending on price, I might be interested, if you aren't.
> >
> > The range is 80-something miles, so comparable to a Nissan Leaf. OK for
> > around town and most people's commuting needs but that's about it.
> >
> > Allan
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>

-- 
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http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 IIRC the suggested range for the Leaf is 100 miles. The kid at the dealership 
told me 80 was a reasonable every day number (he had one). I imagine in the 
extreme cold 40 would be a possibility. We don't get extreme heat and in any 
case batteries don't lose capacity when hot the way they do when cold...
-Curt

On Monday, February 11, 2019, 8:43:03 PM EST, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 realistically, that is probably 40.  The battrees are no longer new...  
It is winter...


Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote on 2/11/19 2:07 PM:
> Depending on price, I might be interested, if you aren't.
>
> The range is 80-something miles, so comparable to a Nissan Leaf. OK for
> around town and most people's commuting needs but that's about it.
>
> Allan
>
>


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some kind of 
JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my welding the 
crankcase back together on my
tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator. 
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the 
tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery 
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking 
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least 
that was a cheap option.


What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one 
of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had 
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a 
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals 
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the 
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be 
seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the 
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.


So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail 
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the 
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such, 
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.


It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't 
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what 
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted 
Troy-Bilt and B&S but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went 
no further.  No joy in Mudville.


I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B&S engine but so far my search 
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about 
what to look for when I was troubleshooting.


Thanks again to all who helped...
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed increased
or sound changed before shutdown...

Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass through the
main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and water,
being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. Engine dies,
restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main jet...
fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..

Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that is your
problem..

Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
moisture then condenses in to carb in droplets.

On Sat, Jan 12, 2019 at 6:31 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


The old way to manage the 'oil alert' shutoff was to short out the
ignition like an ignition switch does.
Some generators have a solenoid on the carb operated by the oil level
switch, usually through a control box.

If the engine note changed before shutdown, the shutdown wasn't purely
electrical. Switching off the ignition just results in the engine coasting
to a stop and quickly.
But it might involve a fuel shutoff like is found on the carburetors of my
Subaru generator and the Briggs engine on my Trail Mower. The mixture would
go lean and then the engine would cut out when it got too lean to sustain
fire.

But if it is the oil alert, is it because the oil level is low, the switch
is bad, the wiring is bad, or the 'black box' is bad?
I'd say step one is to make sure the oil level reads maximum.
Step two, shut off the fuel, take the hose off at the carb, put the end of
the hose in a container, and turn the fuel back on. Does the gas tank
supply fuel to the carb?
Step 3, put the plug wire on a loose spark plug and hold it while the wife
pulls the starter rope. If you say "yeow" and drop the plug, the ignition
is good. I used to use #3 as a last resort in my youth when working on
motorcycles and lawn mowers, but it's a fast and effective test.
After step 3 it gets less simple to diagnose.

Mitch.

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[MBZ] 126 Manual

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

I'm uploading the 126 CD manual to a google drive folder.  It is a bit 
less than 1GB.  If anyone wants to download a copy I can link you to it, 
let me know.


I have 123 and 107 manuals on CD too, I'd have to rip them to the 
computer then upload them too.


--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] trade for vw dune buggy

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

The $500E300 has a salvage title, I'm not sure what difference it makes 
other than it has been wrecked and repaired, maybe totaled out by the 
insco at some point.  I did not try to get other than liability coverage 
on it, might not be able to get collision.  I really don't know.


--FT

On 2/12/19 11:16 AM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:

What's the caveat on a salvage title?

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 10:14 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/304402510428102/

1998 Mercedes-Benz Slk230
Gaston, SC· about a day ago

·


$1,800

  * About This Vehicle

  *
      o

      o Driven 180,000 miles
  *
      o

      o Automatic transmission

Seller's Description

Runs drives great cold a/c salvage title 1800 or trade for vw dune
buggy

-- 
--FT


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--
--FT

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Re: [MBZ] The car I had before I bought a Mercedes diesel ...

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I had a 69 Lotus Europa bought in 73.  Had a problem with the Renault 
engine blowing head gaskets and my size 9.5 shoes meant I had to remove 
them and drive barefoot because the pedal box was tiny!.  Anyway, that 
car only weighed around 1200# so the 85hp made that little car SCREAM.  
When it ran ;-)


LarryT

On 01/31/2019 2:59 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-lotus-europa-7/

Mine was a 1969 in red.

While I was in the USAF in the fall of 1971 and stationed at Lowry AFB, I
drove it from Denver, Colorado, to Pasadena, California and back. It was
a blast to drive.

In driving through Nevada, which at the time had no speed limits, I
averaged 103 mph border-to-border, including slowing down to go through
Las Vegas. (This was the days when the Interstate did not go all the way
through -- there was even a stretch of surface roads near a small town
out in the middle of nowhere in Utah which had signs warning, "No gas
stations for 129 miles, check your gas gauge!")

In Pasadena, I found there was no thermostat in the housing, so I
installed one.

On the way back, it was quite cold one morning. After I had been driving
a while, I noticed smoke out the exhaust. This got progressively worse to
the point I had to check the gas and fill up the oil.

Back in Colorado, I drove it a little, but mostly parked it. I eventually
rebuilt the engine (my second rebuild job, the first on my 1959 Alfa Romeo
Spyder Veloce when I was in college in Pasadena) in the Lowry AFB auto
shop.

When I opened it up, I found the skirt of one of the pistons had
disintegrated and the pieces had fallen to the bottom of the pan. In
addition, the oil scraper ring of that piston had broken into several
pieces, one sizeable piece of which was stuck in the sludge right next to
one of the timing chain sprockets. It was a wonder that the engine did not
come apart leaving me stranded on cold, snowy roads. I am greatful it did
not!

I kept the Lotus Europa when I was transferred to Peterson Field east of
Colorado Springs. There I located a source of proper parts for the car
and did things like put the correct cooling fan on the (small) radiator,
which was in the front, and get shop manuals.

Upon reading the shop manuals, I found the statement, "If the pins
holding the front suspension A-arms are bent, replacement of the chassis
is strongly advised. If the pins are cracked, replacement of the chassis
is mandatory."

After a while working on the car and thinking about this, I decided it
would be best if I sold the car. I looked at a 1954 Ford Station wagon,
which is the car on which I learned to drive, but did not get it.

One of the fellows with whom I worked at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory
when I was in college had regaled me with stories of his father's
Mercedes diesel and how reliable it was. At that point in my life,
reliable was important, so I started considering Mercedes diesels.

I looked at a Mercedes Diesel Ponton (180D, IIRC, though I do not recall
the year), and was impressed by its ability to navigate drainage dips
crossing the road, but did not purchase that one, either.

I eventually wound up at Pikes Peak Mercedes talking with a salesman
about a new 1972 220D/8. I offered my Lotus Europa in trade. I made
several visits there over the next two weeks or so. He eventually came up
with a deal I found acceptable. I went to the Ent AFB Credit Union and
asked for a loan. That process took a while, but finally I went to talk
directly to the fellow who was in charge. I had asked for a loan for
something like $5600 of a purchase price of $7124.50. He was hesitant to
make the loan, but asked what I wanted to purchase. When I told him a new
Mercedes diesel, he said, "Oh, I didn't know you wanted to buy something
of that value," and immediately wrote out the check.

That was the start of my Mercedes infection ...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1992 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo Diesel

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey!  I have a great engine in my 91 300D! Make me a offer? Comes with a 
Sun Valley rebuilt Auto Trans and a 91 300D attached. ;-)

LarryT

On 02/10/2019 9:32 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Sorry if I rained on the parade. What would raise a caution flag for me is
that it ran poorly and present owner changed filters [don't know how many
times at this point].  To my experience, that indicates the previous owner
was not running clean fuel, which also tells me he was not doing the acid
check or removal. Thus, hidden damage.

OTOH, if the rest of the car is nice, and you had a spare engine and fuel
tank Bobs yer Unkle..for the right buy in price...

On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 12:43 PM Bob Rentfro via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Sounds like, that if you were looking for a car to drive a 80 mile commute
for the next three year, you’d pass on this.

I suppose the fact that it hadn’t sold by now should tell me something.

Thanks, Grant.

Bob R

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 10, 2019, at 11:46 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 

wrote:

Bob,
I'll take a shot at your very good question "Can I diagnose if there is
damage".

Answer #1: If it has had  unfiltered and unheated WVO used in sufficient
quantity,  the damage will be apparent, if you look for it. It is "hidden
damage" because it will be internal to engine and fuel system, but that
damage will show up as hard starts, poor idle, poor acceleration, and low
power under load. [All subjective calls for someone looking at a "new"

car,

so a challenge.]

Answer #2: Scenario 2 is the car was used by Previous Owner who knew how

to

manage a WVO system, only ran filtered and de-acidified WVO, The car is
equipped with a separate dedicated WVO tank AND a WVO heating system that
ensures 180 F oil delivered to the IP.
Inspection of the car and looking for all those WVO system components in
working order, will answer some concerns, interrogation of the Previous
owner as to if he used it correctly, will answer others, maybe.

Answer #3: IP and injector damage has happened, along with precup and

valve

carbon buildup, the only  question is, can you live with it until you can
afford to replace the IP and injectors, pull the head and remove carbon,
repair the damage done to rings, cylinder walls, and piston skirts, and
other rotating parts in the engine which are the result of incomplete
combustion of WVO and high carbon accumulation on those parts and in the
oil system.

I have a friend of several years who runs a company that rebuilds Diesel
Injection Pumps. His experience with WVO engines and pumps is such that

he

now turns away work on a WVO IP, simply because the internal damage is so
high the pumps invariably, on tear down inspection, fall into the "Beyond
Economic Repair" box.
Owners routinely refuse to spend the bucks for a new pump or a new

rebuilt

pump PLUS a core charge because their WVO pump is junk.

Clearances on mechanical injection pumps is very tight, WVO with acid not
removed destroys those clearances, at the most critical places to make

and

hold pressure. This loss of clearance alters engine timing, which loses
performance, starting, idle... etc etc..
<--->
I have a depth of experience  in these issues and the WVO / BioDiesel
world. In 2007 I designed, built, and certified a BioDiesel refinery with
design capacity of 20mm gallons per month. Pretty much danced all the

steps

in the WVO world over the past 20 yrs in one capacity or another.

Hope this helps,
Grant...


On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 9:58 AM Bob Rentfro via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I appreciate Curley, GMann and Curt’s explanation on this but I was just
curious what someone like me could inspect on a vehicle like that to

see if

waste oil has done bad things.
Is it an acute or a chronic thing?

Bob R

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 10, 2019, at 9:31 AM, Bob Rentfro  wrote:

As is my luck, this is in Vegas so I can’t simply go give it a look.

Plus, I’m not even sure what to look at/check out to see if the waste

oil

usage has done some irreparable damage. The current owner says he

doesn’t

know how often the PO used the waste oil and he has not sent me a pic of
the setup that is in the car.  Ugh

Bob R

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 10, 2019, at 8:11 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Biod won't hurt anything, it's basically diesel. Veggie oil is what

you

need to worry about. Most veggie "conversions" are "I'm winging it".

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, Feb 9, 2019 at 9:04 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes<

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:   Well if it has been run on bio it might
mean  run away. That said my 2.5t

ON 602 was best car I had in 55 years of driving. Maybe it is just the
viton lines as Kevin said. Also find out what % BioD was run. Waste

veg

or

commercial BioD?  Could be a good buy.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Feb 9, 2019 8:50 PM, "Bob Rentfro via Mercedes" <

mercedes@okiebenz.com>

wrote:

W

Re: [MBZ] trade for vw dune buggy

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

What's the caveat on a salvage title?

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 10:14 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/304402510428102/
>
> 1998 Mercedes-Benz Slk230
> Gaston, SC· about a day ago
> <
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/304402510428102/?ref=product_details>·
>
>
> $1,800
>
>   * About This Vehicle
>
>   *
>   o
>
>   o Driven 180,000 miles
>   *
>   o
>
>   o Automatic transmission
>
> Seller's Description
>
> Runs drives great cold a/c salvage title 1800 or trade for vw dune buggy
>
> --
> --FT
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] around town or the country club with there handsome style

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

What the??  The CD is stunning in that color.

On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 10:03 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Bait and switch pricing
>
>
> https://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/d/palm-coast-1984-mercedes-benz-300cdd/6817056848.html
>
> --
> --FT
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] The Electric B Class

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

One problem with the Leaf (at least previous generations, not sure about
current models) is that it has no thermal management of the
batteries. That reduces lifespan compared to e.g. a Tesla that has
technology to to manage battery temperatures during driving and
charging.

Anyone know what this B class does in that regard?

Allan


Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes  writes:

> In the winter, pre conditioning has a big impact on range.  It heats
> up the cabin and batteries while you're still plugged into a 230V
> source so you don't have to use battery power to do it when on the
> road.  Its like a modern day block heater.
>
> Jaime
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 8:43 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> realistically, that is probably 40.  The battrees are no longer new...
>> It is winter...
>>
>>
>> Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote on 2/11/19 2:07 PM:
>> > Depending on price, I might be interested, if you aren't.
>> >
>> > The range is 80-something miles, so comparable to a Nissan Leaf. OK for
>> > around town and most people's commuting needs but that's about it.
>> >
>> > Allan
>> >
>> >
>>

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[MBZ] trade for vw dune buggy

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/304402510428102/

1998 Mercedes-Benz Slk230
Gaston, SC· about a day ago 
· 


$1,800

 * About This Vehicle

 *
 o

 o Driven 180,000 miles
 *
 o

 o Automatic transmission

Seller's Description

Runs drives great cold a/c salvage title 1800 or trade for vw dune buggy

--
--FT

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[MBZ] CARFAX is beautiful.

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

It is the most beautiful CARFAX you have ever seen.  so beautiful.  
Nothing more beautiful.  Amazingly beautiful, you can't believe how 
beautiful it is.  CARFAX. Beautiful.


AND!  it has Air bags everywhere.

https://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/d/saint-helena-island-2006-mercedes-hard/6800634403.html

--
--FT


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[MBZ] around town or the country club with there handsome style

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Bait and switch pricing

https://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/d/palm-coast-1984-mercedes-benz-300cdd/6817056848.html

--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Kleb Car

[MG via Mercedes]

Not if you take the engine out and put it 
into an older car?


G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Anything can be done with enough time and  thrown at it,
however, it would require reinventing the entire emissions system, which
"nanny epa" would frown on, big time.

The entire engine fuel system is wrapped around the idea that a computer
[which will never fail] can control fuel and emissions better than a mere
mechanical IP...

Ba Humbug... Fie upon them...

On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 11:40 AM MG via Mercedes 
wrote:


Is there a way to put a mechanical IP on this
engine? Could be the fix or it could be that
oil in the controler problem since it is in
the limp mode.

Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

Sounds too god to e true.  Scam??

On Sat, Feb 9, 2019 at 9:51 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


An Okie Special:




https://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/d/sarasota-2008-mercedes-e320-blutec/6810844799.html

-D


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Re: [MBZ] M112 Belt tensioner

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

Ordered the Continental.
It was about $65 with shipping and tax at crockauto.
They've got belts on closeout for $7-10 too.

Mitch.
> On February 11, 2019 at 7:38 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I assume that buying a $22 Ultra Power belt tensioner assembly is a bad idea 
> and I should buy a Continental instead? Ultra Power sounds like bottom dollar 
> cheepchinesium. 
>

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