well guys im in tears new stator arrived looked like original but wires were
soldered and not a complete connection
not wound tight like hondas original so wires were in the way and made it a
tight fit so had to chap it in lightly
only for the middle section of stator to break free what a p
great stuff boys im learning all the time about the nighthawk eddie
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Not really a defect, just a limitation of the time and tech. By putting a
floor on the minimum effective RPM they could get better max continuous
power out of a given size of unit.
Modern winding and rectifier/regulator control does away with the
compromise.
On Sun, May 22, 2016 at 10:02 PM, Tomm
I wouldn't say a defect, just a know condition. Many older bikes use a
magneto, not an alternator. This was an early alternator for these and for
size and weight, just made it need to turn faster to put out.
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"Nighth
Isn't that some kind of "known" manufacturers defect on these bikes?...I
could've sworn I read that somewhere on Paul's site...
NHL
On May 20, 2016 12:03, "Tommy Hill" wrote:
> It will not charge at idle, as said above. Has to be around 2-2,500 RPMs
> before it starts to charge.
>
> --
> You r
It will not charge at idle, as said above. Has to be around 2-2,500 RPMs
before it starts to charge.
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This was good.
Thanks
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i know your probably right kyle as youve helped me alot with my bike the fuse
box and all least it would put recrods straight
eddie a question for you would i get any charge at all if stator readings are
yellow to yellow ok at 0.6 ohms but white to black only reading 2.3 instead of
4.0-6.0 ohms
The bike will never charge at idle, even with a healthy electrical system.
The break even point is around 2500 RPM.
-Kyle
On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 6:49 AM, Eddie Hoy wrote:
> yeaha just ordered brand new stator hope thats all it needs will find out
> if the bike charges on idle and solve age ol
yeaha just ordered brand new stator hope thats all it needs will find out if
the bike charges on idle and solve age old problem will do this with brand new
rectifier aswell eddie
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I did this recently, too. Manual hammer driven impact driver and the wife
"volunteer"! She wasn't exactly a willing participant, though.
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all i can do now is wait till pay and buy new stator thanks for the help will
let you know when new stator in bike and if thats was the whole problem fingers
crossed eddie
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Good to hear you've called out the volunteer help to get the stator nut
off :-)
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got mine off with wrachet got wife to stand on back brake and bike in gear
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Hey Eddie
The voltage your getting at 4000rpm sounds much like my bike. It would
charge but you had to be riding the hell out of it. Around town it was
draining the battery. Your test results say the stator needs replaced.
Unscrew the alternator cover, and then hopefully get the center bolt o
checks not good looks like both stators are no use eddie
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not looking good first stator yellow all 0.6 black to white wire same 0.6
second stator yellow all 0.6 black to white 2.3 so take it both are f- eddie
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thanks for the attachment got an a6 colour chart here going to work to check
out stators eddie
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cant seem to get any ohms on my cheep multimeter i did have yellow wires
checked out at my work and were ok cant remember what the black and white wire
was so im going to my work this morning and check both my alternators out will
send you results
cheers eddie
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hi lar it new battery 12.6v when charged omhs on yellow wires all check out is
there magnets in the stator on this bike
battery will go up to only 13v at 4000rpm eddie
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as far as i know its original rectifier got spare bike bit off a wreck for
spares put the rectifier from that on nothing put the alternator from that bike
on stil no joy
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Hey Eddie
I have a 83 hawk and ended up getting the stator rewound because it was
putting out voltage but not enough. Hopefully you have a muitimeter. On
the left side, remove the cover and take apart the connector from the
alternator. Set your mutimeter to OHM setting, check each of the three
That is not enough to charge the battery.
It seems that the rectifier is not working.
Are you able to read the A.C. voltage at the rectifier inputs (yellow wires)
I will scan and post, later tonite, some sheets of the Honda shop manual
that explains the procedure for troubleshooting
Stefano
I
checked at 4000rpm lucky if i get 13v where on alternator are the magnets
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Hi Eddie,
i don't know if my reply just submitted will be published...I just joined
the blog and practicing...
However I wrote that I had a similar issue with my '85 CB650SC.
I think I can support you in troubleshooting if you got some practice e.g
if you can use a digital voltmeter.
First you s
Hello Eddie,
I just joined the forum and I have been owning a Honda CB650SC for 30 years.
I had a similar problem with the alternator.
First thing to check is the voltage at the battery terminals with engine
running at roughly 4.000 rpm.
Voltage should be 13.7V minimum.
Let me know and I think
i already know what it looks like ive strpped it down just dont know how its
not putting out a charge eddie all readings 0.6 and not earthimg so why wont it
work
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Here's a view from the manual.
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