Re: [Blackbelly] Blackbelly Digest, Vol 13, Issue 7
Goodbye Blackbelly List. :( Carol you provided a much needed tool for all us "Blackbelly People " for many years and I thank you for that! I moved on to Mouflon several years ago but I always enjoyed this list and it's discussions. I'm kinda sad. MUCH THANKS! Chris Buchanan Pleasant Ridge Mouflon On Fri, 9/22/17, Mark Storey wrote: Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Blackbelly Digest, Vol 13, Issue 7 To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Date: Friday, September 22, 2017, 3:23 PM Great job. Appreciate your efforts! Mak Storey Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 20, 2017, at 5:43 PM, blackbelly-requ...@lists.blackbellysheep.info wrote: > > Send Blackbelly mailing list submissions to > blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info > > To subscribe or unsubscribe, visit > >http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.info > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > blackbelly-requ...@lists.blackbellysheep.info > > You can reach the person managing the list at > blackbelly-ow...@lists.blackbellysheep.info > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Blackbelly digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Times change and it is time to close the Listserv (Carol Elkins) > > > -- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 17:19:49 -0600 > From: Carol Elkins > To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info > Subject: [Blackbelly] Times change and it is time to close the > Listserv > Message-ID: > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > Dear Listserv members, > > The Blackbelly Listserv was first created in 2001, and it has served > a vital role in helping stabilize both the Barbados Blackbelly and > American Blackbelly sheep breeds. It has provided a meeting place for > a friendly community of breeders to discuss problems, answer > questions, and generally provide support to each other. > > Messages have decreased considerably during the last two years, > largely due to newer social media tools such as Facebook that can > better serve member needs. This is as it should be---after all, this > Listserv was born because in 2001 the only resource available to > breeders was a clunky bulletin board. > > It is time to move on, so I will be shutting the Blackbelly Listserv > down on October 1, 2017. You will always be able to search the > group's archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info/ > > It has been a privilege working with the oldtimers who have > contributed their time by responding to list messages and the newbies > who were courageous enough to ask questions. It has been a joy > working with such a great group of friendly and helpful people. We > have never had a serious disagreement; no one has ever been flamed or > gotten out of line. What a great group of people you are! > > So my heartfelt thank you to each of the 265 current members in this > list. I wish you continued success with your blackbelly sheep. There > is no more beautiful sheep in this world than a blackbelly > sheep--regardless of which blackbelly breed it is. > > Carol Elkins > List owner > > > > -- > > Subject: Digest Footer > > ___ > This daily digest is from the Blackbelly mailing list. > Visit this list's home page at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info/ > > > -- > > End of Blackbelly Digest, Vol 13, Issue 7 > * > ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Deworming sheep (was previously Blackbelly Digest, Vol 9, Issue 48)
I concur with Carol. I live in the humid southeast and I only wormed once, many years ago. In fact, all the sheep that were wormed have either been sold or died of old age, so none of the sheep on my place now have ever been wormed. My vet and my State Vet both encouraged me to do this. From that point on, I never wormed again. I did lose a few in the early years but none in several years. Survival of the fittest. Chris Buchanan -Original Message- From: blackbelly-boun...@lists.blackbellysheep.info [mailto:blackbelly-boun...@lists.blackbellysheep.info] On Behalf Of Carol Elkins Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2013 11:31 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info; Ellen Brouillette Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Deworming sheep (was previously Blackbelly Digest, Vol 9, Issue 48) Hi Ellen, Great question, and you will probably receive several different viewpoints. In almost 16 years of raising Barbados Blackbelly, I have never dewormed or vaccinated my sheep. Although I haven't had any sheep losses from worm overload, I was prepared to lose some in order to cull any that were not genetically worm resistant. I am of the school that believes that keeping sheep alive chemically just enables them to breed more lambs that are genetically not resistant to worms. That doesn't help the overall breed. I live in a climate that has cold winters which helps keep the worm load down, but several BB breeders live in humid, warmer areas and have not found it necessary to deworm. Also, by rotating my sheep through smaller paddocks during summer grazing, I help break the worm cycle. I allow them to graze a paddock for one week and I don't put them back in that paddock for a month. If you do decide to deworm, I urge you to only deworm the sheep that show signs of being debilitated by worms. Deworming sheep that don't require it just increases the worm tolerance to dewormers and minimizes the effectiveness of dewormers when you really need them. BTW, when you respond to an email, don't forget to change the subject line. Replace the Digest subject line by copying and pasting the subject line of the email you are replying to. If you are starting a new subject, create a new subject line. That helps the messages archive correctly and enables people to search for them. Carol At 07:57 PM 10/8/2013, you wrote: >One of the resons I got into ABB sheep is that I understood they have >a natural ability to resist parisites and dasieses, In the arcives I >read how some are worming there sheep, Can we get by whithout worming >and vaccinating? Carol Elkins Critterhaven--Registered Barbados Blackbelly Hair Sheep (no shear, no dock, no fuss) Pueblo, Colorado http://www.critterhaven.biz ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] (no subject)
Nancy, Just curious, but I have tried to use the tubs before and the smaller sheep/lambs always jump on top and pee and poop in the tub. How do you keep them from doing this? Thanks! Chris Buchanan -Original Message- From: blackbelly-boun...@lists.blackbellysheep.info [mailto:blackbelly-boun...@lists.blackbellysheep.info] On Behalf Of nancy...@centurytel.net Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 4:37 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info; Ellen Brouillette Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] (no subject) I always supplement. I have used MLS tubs which are mollasess based with great vitamins & mineral kinda high at 38 for 60 lbs but it takes awhile to use up if your sheep are eating good quality hay etc. Or Kent brand loose mineral. And I use a protein block from Ragland Mills in Neosho MO. A lot depends on what I am feeding to what type of supplement they get. Good luck. Nancy Quoting Ellen Brouillette : > any recomdations for a mineral supplement. Do blackbelly sheep need > it? What I have been using seems expencive. > ___ > This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's > homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info > ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Giving Birth
First rule of the animal kingdom: No good deed goes unpunished. That's the hardest lesson to learn...:0) Chris - Original Message - From: "Cecil R Bearden" To: Sent: Friday, March 02, 2012 6:11 AM Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Giving Birth It seems that the harder I try to make a good environment for my sheep, and keep them well fed, the more trouble they have with lambs. > Cecil in oKla ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Fact or Fiction?
At least 90% of my ewes lamb in the early morning hours, just before or not long after daybreak. I don't feed a lot though, hay in the winter plus once a ewe lambs I lure her and her lambs into a separate paddock and feed them a small amount of protein sheep feed each day. I just started doing this last year. For 14 years I only gave them a little corn on the coldest days of winter.(plus the hay of course). My GUESS would be "old wives tale" as far as the lambing time is concerned, but I'm certainly no expert. There is usually a little truth in most of my wife's old tales. :0) Chris - Original Message - From: "Natasha" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 7:06 PM Subject: [Blackbelly] Fact or Fiction? Hi again, This is what one person told me about feeding grain. If you feed grain between 10 am and 2 pm you are more likely to have your lambs in the afternoon. If you grain them in the evening you are sure to have lambing at night. Is this just an "old wives tale" or is there anything to this? Last time around I had lambing in the wee hours of the morning and lambing in the early afternoon. I try to grain in the day because of this advice of which I am a little suspicious of seeing that it didn't hold true for both girls. It seems a little ridiculous to me - I would think they come when they come but this person held herself to be an "expert" and I know that I am not. So, what of your experiences? Do tell! I am all ears. Thanks, Natasha ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Pregnant Ewes
Natasha, Here is my experience with pregnant ewes. There is only one instance in which I can consistently predict a lambing. If I see a lone ewe that is separated from the group by 100 yds or so, she will lamb that night. That's it. No other sign is reliable with my ewes. Some bag some of the time, next time they may not bag. We will swear that a ewe has "dropped" only to wait another 2 or 3 weeks before seeing her lamb. My wife and I spent many of the early years observing and fretting, trying to figure it out, but to no avail. But first time lambing ewes are the worst. They almost always have lambs before I am even aware they are pregnant. Of course, they usually only have singles so that explains some of it, but it surprises me every time. We don't worry about it anymore, just let it happen. They do just fine, some lamb in the barn, some insist on lambing in the open pasture on the coldest rainy/snowy night. At least my pond doesn't freeze over as I have heard of them lambing there as well. lol As far as running your ram with ewes that are nursing little ones or any other time for that matter. I have read many differing opinions. I personally run my sheep in one group, rams and all , 24/7. They do great. Because of this, I usually have first year ewes lamb at 10 to 11 months, they have all done great as well. A lot depends on the number of sheep you have and the kind of breeding program you have. If you have over 15 ewes per breeding ram, then you may have to separate young rams to prevent them from breeding their mommas or others. The boss rams can only keep up with so many. Chris - Original Message - From: "Natasha" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 9:47 AM Subject: [Blackbelly] Pregnant Ewes Hello All, I joined the list a couple of months ago but never have yet said Hi! I have Katahdin hair sheep but not any American or Barbados Blackbelly. The people I got my sheep from did have the Blackbelly (not sure which). There doesn't seem to be any big Katahdin lists that I've been able to find so I thought I'd join this one and learn what I can - I hope that meets with your approval :) I am fairly new to sheep and our first lambs were born this spring. We now have 6 ewes and one ram lamb. So here is my long winded question: rightly or wrongly I turned my ram with the nursing ewes when they lambs were two months of age. The reason I did this was because we liked this ram's babies and would develop a nice foundation stock but were not planning on keeping him over the winter. He was with the girls from mid May until mid August. He has since found a new home and we have a nice ram lamb to replace him. I naively thought that things would go as smoothly as last time. I was anticipating my lambs to be born mid October but no lambs have touched the ground as of yet. I've been looking at my photos from this spring trying to figure out how far along these girls are. Will ewes present the same way each pregnancy? I think the one ewe has dropped. She is very quiet, not eating much, making her funny faces, and is rubbing her rear against the wall of straw like she did last spring. Last time she did all of that she had her babes the following early morning. However, the difference is that this time she is not all bagged up. The old photos show that she was very full with milk before she lambed. Since she has a tail I cannot really check her vulva without causing her undue stress. I honestly thought the other ewe was further along with her pregnancy and was surprised to see this girl behaving this way. Her demeanour is much different today - very calm and quiet - and I swear she's going to lamb. BUT, I am a novice and can't even say for sure whether she has dropped or not (I think maybe she did). Do ewes always bag up before lambing? Is she just uncomfortable? I am on pins and needles. It would have been much better for them to have lambed in October without the snow and wind but alas, it is what it is. Do you just keep counting 17 days when they don't lamb as you planned? Do you rely on what you saw last time as gospel for the next lambing? Any offerings of advice? Was is a bad idea to put the ewes with the ram while they were with their babies? I was told that you could do a back to back breeding once in awhile but generally you let them have a rest and breed once a year. I feel like I have too much info that I'm going to burst, but still not enough info to know better. sigh. This post was bounced yesterday so I will give an update...there were no babies born last night and the ewes were famished this morning. I don't know why they aren't going to their food area? I gave them some loose stuff and they devoured it. I think the lambs are moving into place, right now it looks like a big bowling ball is hanging in between her front and rear legs but still no udder action...The ewes are very quiet and serene looking, maybe this is the home stretch? Thank you for you
Re: [Blackbelly] Tired of losing sheep to coyotes
My suggestion would be to fight teeth with teeth. Get a good Livestock Guardian Dog. The only down side for me with LGDs is waiting out the puppy years. One trick I learned is bottle raising a couple of lambs with the dog. They become buddies and the others learn from them. Our Turk (Anatolian) passed away this past week 3 months shy of 13 yrs. old. We never lost a single sheep under Turk's watch. He could run like a deer up to 11 yrs old and stayed very active till about then. Once he learned the sheep were not toys and that they ran from him out of fear and not because they loved going for a long run, he became the greatest asset I could have imagined The sheep loved Turk and he loved them. He stayed with them wherever they went. The mommas would often leave their lambs with him while they foraged. We noticed him going down hill last year and got another Anatolian puppy. I unwisely got a cool looking brindle this time instead of the traditional color of cream, but the sheep don't think he's too cool looking. They are terrified of him as he looks like a 130 lb coyote. This winter we will again raise a bottle ewelamb or two to hopefully create the bond connection. The Anatolian is an extreme athlete, very fast and full of energy. Once past the puppy stage they make incredible guard dogs. We have found them to be extremely sweet and passive to people (except UPS and the meter man) but very nasty to all four legged intruders. There are other breeds that might work for you, but be careful to buy from a "working dog" breeder. I would also ask if they have any dogs over 6 years of age that you can watch run. Some LGD breed's are lazy and due to bad hips they don't do a lot of patrolling past about 5 yrs old. JMO, Chris - Original Message - From: "stewart" To: Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 4:42 AM Subject: [Blackbelly] Tired of losing sheep to coyotes to all, can anyone suggest the best way to protect my sheep from coyotes? i work the late shift and the last two morning when i get home i find a dead sheep. i have field fence as a barrier. spent a few hours thursday making certain no holes or spots the coyotes might squeeze through. i have three donkeys. (useless) -free to a good home. any suggestions is much appreciated. stewart ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Algae bloom in ponds
Is Basic H2 the same as Basic H? I have been having trouble finding the reg Basic H. Chris - Original Message - From: "Julian Hale" To: Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 7:52 PM Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Algae bloom in ponds In addition to being a wormer, Basic H prevents algae from growing in your tanks. If you don't have fish, you could try Basic H to keep the algae in check. Julian On 7/28/2011 3:56 PM, Mary Swindell wrote: Terry, I am glad to hear information about the Aquashade -- I did not know much about it and have never used it. Personally, I do not like the idea of coloring the water anyway, as it looks fake and the possible toxicity is always a worry. So that pretty much settles it for me: I would not consider this as a solution to keeping algae off livestock ponds. However, another solution which you touched upon is an aerating fountain. That involves some up-front cost, but might be the most natural, non-invasive solution of all. I know someone who has a floating aerating fountain connected to a dedicated windmill. The windmill drives the fountain pump so that no other power source is needed. This might be a good solution. Another approach: I have added several geese to my farm over the past 2 years, and I have no algae nor pond weed anymore. I wasn't sure if the waterfowl addition would be good or bad for the pond, but so far it seems to have a fairly benevolent effect. Of course, you have to put up with a little honking and squabbling of the birds from time to time, ha ha! Mary Swindell ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] copper re-visited
After reading this I thought I would add my experience and include a few facts about our sheep's environment: I have been using cattle mineral blocks for at least 7 or 8 years. I haven't wormed in that time period either. In that time I have only had two deaths that weren't due to coyotes and they were both this year(a 4 yr old ewe and her 6 month old daughter just seemingly dropped dead with no prior signs of sickness). Never determined cause. The sheep seem to be very healthy to me. My flock size has averaged probably 30 adults (+lambs) over that time frame. My property is fairly hilly with no place for standing water so I am sure this helps with health issues. They are not overcrowded and there is an abundance of varied plant life. These sheep are living on approximately 10 acres of pasture and 10 acres of woods and they have free run of it all. They only get grain on the rare occasion I am selling some and need to gather them. Hay only in the dead of winter and nothing the rest of the year. I agree with "less is more" but in my case I think its... the less I know about what can go wrong the more things seem to go right. Chris Buchanan - Original Message - From: "Double J Farms" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 9:19 PM Subject: [Blackbelly] copper re-visited Had my scrapie inspection today and an interesting conversation with the vet about copper in hair sheep. Check out: http://www.sheepandgoat.com/articles/revisitingcopper.html Some folks are actually using cu to treat for parasites, particularly in hair sheep. Folks I know that are using cattle mineral (>1000ppm cu) for their hair sheep are not having problems. In fact, I used cattle mineral blocks for several years without incident before switching to an expensive 20ppm cu mineral supplement for my AB sheep. Seem to have had less parasite problems back then also. It seems the more $ I spend and try to baby these animals, the more problems I have. Perhaps Less (intervention on my part) is More! Thinking about slowly re-introducing them to higher cu minerals again. John Carlton Double J Farms Spanish Fort, Alabama 251-625-2519 doublejfa...@wildblue.net ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.80/2523 - Release Date: 11/24/09 07:46:00 ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] guardian dogs
I started a reply to the original poster earlier and something came up. I must have hit the reply button by mistake. sorry :) Anyway, Carla and JoAnne have given excellent responses. I personally didnt go to the lengths that JoAnne laid out but I probably will when Turk(Anatolian) needs a helper/replacement. I simply bought Turk, put him in the pasture and fed him once a day. His instincts did the rest, and other than digging caverns(also instinct) in the pasture he has been a fantastic dog. Never a sheep lost on his watch. Excellent job! Chris - Original Message - From: "Carla Amonson" To: Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 2:13 PM Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] guardian dogs You might not like my reply, but in our world guardian dog are for guarding sheep, not yard pets. We think of them like an electric fencer, you check them once a day and make sure thy are working and let them do their job the rest of the time. They are meant to be with the sheep, not ypr family, so put them in a pen that that can not get out of with a few sheep that will not be really agesive toward him: ie not ewes with young lambs. They will do their job-they have been bred for thousands of years to guar sheep, that is what they do. They will sort it out with the sheep, but you need to let the dog live with the sheep to bond with them. If it doesn't want to look after the sheep give it away and get another. But, most importantly, youdo not want them guarding your front porch. The longer you bond with of the larger chance you have of that happening. It is nice if you can catch and handle the dog, but keep it as minmal as possible, there is little need for obedience training, you are not taking it on trips to town. My two cents, Carla Sent from my iphone __ The new Internet Explorer® 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/ ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.62/2315 - Release Date: 08/20/09 06:05:00 ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Guard Dogs
- Original Message - From: "blueberryfarm" To: Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 12:24 PM Subject: [Blackbelly] Guard Dogs We lost a ewe this spring to coyotes so we bought an eight week old Great Pyrenees. I have been taking her (Greta) to the shed where I feed the sheep occasionally (they are pasture sheep) to acquaint her to the animals. I stand in the corner and let her hide behind me if she wants. The sheep are very interested in her and stare at her She will usually venture out after a few minutes and a couple of sheep will come up to her and touch noses. The first few times Greta licked the faces of several of them. But today one of the ewes ran up to her and butted her. I hope that didn't ruin her for guarding. She is now ten weeks old. I am training her to the usual commands (come, sit, stay). My question is about the transition process from puppy to adult guard dog. We have no grown guard dog to nurture her. Am I starting too early? Is there an established practice for the transition? I have looked on the web but so far found little help. Thanks for any advice. Jerry Kirby Windmill Farms Picayune, Mississippi ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.61/2313 - Release Date: 08/19/09 06:03:00 ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Sad day
Thank you for the replies. I didnt really know what to do with that many bodies, but luckily I had a huge brush pile already made. I decided to burn them. Not fun. Yeah I considered that it might be dogs but only because of the number killed. I would be very shocked if it turns out to be dogs. I have talked with many neighbors and they have all seen and heard many coyotes but not any stray/feral dogs. I find it very hard to believe that "pet dogs" would attack with such precision without putting a single mark on the sheep other than the throat but I guess its an outside possibility. As far as trapping goes, I dont feel the need to do that. Turk(anatolian) has never lost a sheep under his watch. He is nine years old and still runs like a gazelle but I think we are going to go ahead and get a pup for him to work with. Turk has been worth his weight in gold. I feel like I have betrayed him and the sheep. He takes his job seriously and the sheep depend on him. I could almost swear he looks depressed since being released this morning. He walked with us this morning and found all the bodies in the woods. On a good note Turk also found two young ones in the woods amazingly untouched, one only 2 weeks old. Its twin was the only sheep out of the entire bunch that has yet to be found. Turk escorted them back to the front pasture to their crying mothers. I guess from now on, the guardians will have to endure the fireworks. Lesson learned. Chris B. - Original Message - From: "Cecil Bearden" To: Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 6:02 PM Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Sad day Let me first say that I am very sorry. These experiences are just like an attack on your family. I had this happen about 10 years ago. I lost 8 one night. I know exactly how you feel, I lost 3 2 weeks ago and it looks like another 2 yesterday or this morning. However, my losses are from dogs, but have the same MO. My advice is to get with your USDA animal damage control officer and get some traps set. Don't be surprised to find some dogs in the traps. Use the 3S method and keep trapping. Cecil in OKla William Buchanan wrote: Hello all, Last night, as with all July 4ths, we brought our Anatolian in to sleep in the basement. He stresses out over the fireworks so we give him the night off. Besides, we haven't lost a sheep or seen any signs of coyotes in ages. Well, this morning we awoke to a field of dead sheep. At first I suspected dogs, wild or otherwise, due to the number of dead. But upon inspection, I determined this was done by a mother and her pups. Apparantley July is the beginning of the "training period" for coyotes pups. Every single dead sheep had small teeth marks on their throat or small puncture wounds on the throat. Not one sheep had a single stray bite anywhere else on their body. All the dead were a year old or younger, no adults killed. The most common victims were ramlambs born last fall. All were text book coyote kills, the only thing that confused me was not a single one was eaten or even cut open and of course, the number killed, 15. I had never heard of a coyote killing more than one sheep at a time, but after researching it, I have learned differently. They must have struck at daybreak. We got up and let the house dog out to use the bathroom and noticed the sheep gathered in a tight ball in the front pasture and very worried looking. We also noticed a young lamb staggering across the pasture. I went up the slight rise to get a better look and saw the dead bodies littering the pasture. All the bodies were very warm, the small amount of blood looked very fresh, no flies, and a few were still barely alive, drawing their last breath. I am still in a state of shock. Chris Buchanan ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 07/05/09 05:53:00 ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
[Blackbelly] Sad day
Hello all, Last night, as with all July 4ths, we brought our Anatolian in to sleep in the basement. He stresses out over the fireworks so we give him the night off. Besides, we haven't lost a sheep or seen any signs of coyotes in ages. Well, this morning we awoke to a field of dead sheep. At first I suspected dogs, wild or otherwise, due to the number of dead. But upon inspection, I determined this was done by a mother and her pups. Apparantley July is the beginning of the "training period" for coyotes pups. Every single dead sheep had small teeth marks on their throat or small puncture wounds on the throat. Not one sheep had a single stray bite anywhere else on their body. All the dead were a year old or younger, no adults killed. The most common victims were ramlambs born last fall. All were text book coyote kills, the only thing that confused me was not a single one was eaten or even cut open and of course, the number killed, 15. I had never heard of a coyote killing more than one sheep at a time, but after researching it, I have learned differently. They must have struck at daybreak. We got up and let the house dog out to use the bathroom and noticed the sheep gathered in a tight ball in the front pasture and very worried looking. We also noticed a young lamb staggering across the pasture. I went up the slight rise to get a better look and saw the dead bodies littering the pasture. All the bodies were very warm, the small amount of blood looked very fresh, no flies, and a few were still barely alive, drawing their last breath. I am still in a state of shock. Chris Buchanan ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Coyotes
Let the can of worms be opened! ;) There are many opinions about coyote protection and I will give you mine. Get an LGD(livestock guardian dog). Fight teeth with teeth. My property borders over a thousand acres of uninhabited woods. We have tons of coyotes. It took the coyotes about a year to discover these new creatures called sheep that provide a wonderful meal for the whole family with very little effort. Coyote heaven! Sheep started disappearing every few nights. We got our Anatolian Shepherd, Turk, when he was about 4 months old and he has done extremely well since day one. Not one loss under his watch. Turk is now 8 years old and still runs like a gazelle at 140 lbs. Turk did go thru a juvenile stage where he would get bored and have big herding "fun runs". The sheep didn't care for it and he eventually grew out of it thank goodness. (He didn't kill any sheep, but it was very irritating) Within the next couple of years I will be getting another LGD. I will try to find a cross between an Anatolian and a Great Pyrenees. Full blooded Pyrs tend to be more on the laid-back side but might get a little too sluggish after 4 or 5 years(usually due to bad hips). Great Pyrenees have been bred for show and pets for way too long. I know a fellow Blackbelly breeder that has six pyrs and none of them will venture more than 100 yds from the barn, no matter what. He told me that started when they were about 3 years old. If you could find someone that is raising Pyrs and has some on premises that are eight ot ten years old that are getting around fairly well, then by all means buy from that person! But I have read many great stories on Pyr/Anatolian crosses. If I can't find one I will go back to an Anatolian. As far as the other LGD breeds go, I know very little to nothing. I'm sure someone else on this list has experience with other LGD breeds. Like a previous lister stated, BUY FROM WELL BRED WORKING STOCK no matter the breed. When learning of alternate types of guardians, I have learned it is important to gather your advice from people that don't sell guardians. Haha, just kidding. Chris B. > I have read that donkeys, llamas, and Great Pyrenees dogs are good at protecting the sheep. What are your experiences with any of these? Is an adult ram a good protector? I have a young ram (about 10 months) in with the flock where the ewe was killed and adult ram with the other flock. Your advice in dealing with coyotes and guardian animals or other protection methods will be most apprciated. Eat more blueberries! Jerry Windmill Farms LLC Picayune, Mississippi ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.19/1664 - Release Date: 9/10/2008 6:00 AM ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Goats and Sheep
- Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:35 PM Subject: [Blackbelly] Goats and Sheep My end goal is cheese and breeding. My girls seem big enough to milk but people tell me the teats are too small. Any experience? < It could possibly depend on the ewe, but I have milked a few ewes over the years for colostrum with no problem getting at least 8 ounces 4 X a day. Chris B. ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Blackbelly Digest, Vol 4, Issue 14
My personal opinion is it is too late if he is that old and that aggressive. By now he not only has a large set of horns, he is used to imposing his will on others. Plus, he has no fear of you. It may slow him down a little, especially after the new ram puts him in his place, but he will still be a threat to you. I have a wether that is 8 years old and whenever I walk out to bring them a treat like an alfalfa bale or something, he starts to get aggressive/impatient and feigns a charge. He hasn't actually charged, but all he has are two buttons for horns and he was banded/bottlefed from 2 days old. He has never known real aggression and never learned to charge and fight. I can easily see where he would be a problem with just a little confidence. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Fallis Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:06 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Blackbelly Digest, Vol 4, Issue 14 I have a question My alpha ram is very aggressive. Dangerous at times (bottle fed, I was warned not to try and make a pet out of him) Throws very good genes and keeps the ewes happy. I have been wondering if I made a whether out of him, would his attitude change. He is now 5 years old. Is it too late? Jim Fallis Palmer, Texas ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] test
I got it. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cecil Bearden Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 5:40 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] test I have not received any messages from the list in a week. Does anyone receive this? Cecil in OKla ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] raw meat
I agree 100%, sounds crazy to me. I know several dog people that swear by it and have been following the "barf" feeding plan for many years. Chris B. >Wow, the analogy to the 15 year old coyote is sure a strange one! This< >sounds as absurd to me as the idea of being sure chickens have "clean"< >water! Since time began carnivores have eaten raw meat. And what does the< >research say about what kids are the healthiest -- those who play in the< >dirt and pick their noses! Rick Krach Auburn, California (530) 889-1488 >Tha analogy he used is How many 15 year old coyotes have you seen? >Cecil in OKla _ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] problem with ram horns
Excellent post Barb! That is the sobering truth of the matter. Jennifer, Hi, I'm Chris Buchanan. I live in north Alabama. I have a young American Blackbelly(horned blackbelly) ram that I would gladly donate to your zoo if you want him. He is not a bottle lamb which should be a plus. He is quite handsome with wide horns and will be one year old next week. He is the "pick" ramlamb from last winter's lambing. I was planning on keeping him but we can and will make more. :0) I can take a couple of pictures this weekend if you are interested and send them to you. Some of his ancestors can be seen here: http://www.att.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&ext=1&groupid=299233&ck= The only "catch" is: Someone has to come get him or have him transported. I am in Decatur, off I-65. If you have any questions feel free to ask. You can email me off the list if you prefer: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Barb Lee Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 11:30 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] problem with ram horns Please accept this advice in the spirit in which it is given. To a horned blackbelly breeder, a horn growing into the face represents a serious, life-threatening genetic defect. Horned rams with splendid racks that do not threaten their quality of life are easily obtainable. In my humblest of opinions, I would not let this animal breed, nor display it as representative of its breed. If it is also obnoxious and dangerous, I think it would be best euthanized and a more appropriate ram with correct horns be obtained. Good rams are neither rare nor expensive. Having the horn skillfully trimmed would probably be much more expensive than the animal is worth. Best regards, Barb Lee ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Prolific?
I think the 6 to 8 month turnaround makes them fairly prolific. As far as triplets go... I not only don't go out of my way for triplets, I almost consider that a black mark. I prefer twins. Two teats, two lambs. No bummers or bottle babies... nice and healthy active twins. Most ewes I have that produce trips always seem to have a droopy eared "straggler" in the mix and overall their trips appear "punier" and not as active when compared to the other ewes' twins. Although the trips all seem to make it, I'll take a set of twins that are fat, happy, active and growing well any day. Also, out of the ten or so bottle lambs I have had, I would wager 8 came from sets of trips. I only have one mom that consistently keeps her trips and actually does well with them. She milks like a Holstein. :) If I were raising them for a living I might feel differently and actually encourage trips, not sure though. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Barb Lee Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:12 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [Blackbelly] Prolific? Do folks out there generally feel that blackbellies fall into the "prolific" category, with such breeds as Finnsheep? That would mean producing pretty good sized litters (3-5) on a regular basis. Or do we tend to think of them more as out of season breeders that are fairly reliable twinners. I'm not thinking of one or two outstanding individuals, but tendencies of any flock to produce large litters of lambs. I'd also be curious for curiosity's sake, whether folks are going out of their way to produce triplets + Thanks, Barb Lee ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [Blackbelly] Dying Lambs
I guess I'll throw in my experience: I leave a brown cattle mineral block out for my sheep year round. I also let them have loose Purina Sheep mineral(no copper) in a barrel hanging in the barn. The first thing I noticed about 6 years ago when I started using the mineral block was the darker markings turned BLACK shortly after. They go thru the sheep mineral much faster than the block. I will go long periods without seeing them touch the mineral block (sits out in the front pasture), then there will be a few days they will line up and go at it. Maybe the sheep crave copper when their body tells them they need it. Don't know, but I haven't lost an adult or lamb in many years. The sheep seem to be healthy and content. I am passing this on only to let people know of my experience and not to recommend this practice. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Egils Burgelis Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:33 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Blackbelly] Dying Lambs 8 yrs. ago I lost a few lambs. I had one anylized to find the problem. Results showed copper in the system. The Vet told me "sheep shouldn't have ANY copper" If one looks at the ingredients in sheep mineral, copper is not listed. Since installing a no copper diet I have not lost a single animal. My 2 cents!! Andy Burgelis Elkhart Lake WI. ___ This message is from the Blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Help!
Ah, I remember that lesson well... I got burned by my first group not long after "moving to the country". Two rams, three ewes. They seemed so calm in those crates...no problem I thought... "I'll just open their doors and let them out into this pen till morning. They'll be fine"... I slowly opened each animals crate and stepped out of the pen. It was dark but the best I can tell, they slowly eased out together and then WHAM! The biggest ram blasted the enclosure wide open and the rest came tumbling after. I stood there in shock while they disappeared into the woods. I could hear them bleating and crashing through the jungle... it was obvious that they were traveling at TOP SPEEDwithin a minute there was complete silence. It was over... not a trace... not a peep... all gone. Afterwards, when my neighbor got through laughing(he looked and sounded just like the donkey on "HEE HAW") he informed me of rule number one of raising livestock. (spoken slowly with a strong southern accent) Rule Number One: DON'T YOU NEVER... NEVER EVER... unload ANY animals at night, especially their FIRST NIGHT. (at this point you spit if you have any tobacco) I guess it would have been unethical to let the city slicker know this rule beforehand... Oh well, it turned out okay. I managed to recover all of them over the next week, due to some nice neighbors and a TON of luck. Things will get better. :0) Best of luck, Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris & Eileen Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 8:12 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Help! So my intro to BBs. I got 2 ewe lambs last night. We brought them home ~10:30 & unloaded them into a cattle pannel enclosure. One escaped immediately and is gone. The other freaked out, this morning and is loose in the big 1 acre pasture with just hot wire around it. Don't think that's going to do much. So besides putting out water and saying a prayer I am going to go beat the bushes for "Coyote Bait" as she is now named and make one more request for my horses to please befriend this little lost lamb. Any other suggestions??? Eileen PS Beth not sure about that ram at this point! ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Ram w/ flock year round
Personalities vary among individual rams. IME, most rams are very tolerant of their flock, walking softly and carrying a big stick. When a ewe comes in heat, he will keep her separate and run off any frisky youngsters but nothing serious. I have had maybe a couple over the years that have been a little less tolerant of others. I don't think any of mine have been "bad" enough to cause any serious damage though. I have heard others say they thought their rams may have caused extensive injuries or even death in some of their younger/smaller sheep. I think these are isolated incidences and I wouldn't worry about it. I guess if I had a ram that was being overly belligerent to really small lambs, I would be tempted to put him in the freezer or at least separate him from the others for a time. I wouldn't pass on those genes. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 6:22 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Ram w/ flock year round I've seen mixed flocks with the rams/wethers present at all times. In some cases the boys get rough with the babies, and sometimes even with the ewes, butting them in the sides. I've always wondered about this behavior. The lambs are not a threat, and the ewes "belong" to the boys, so why the behavior? Is it just dominance? Should the naught boys be separated until the lambs are safely born and old enough to run away? Tracy ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Do we have to have a ram?
I keep my ram with the ewes year-round, but I imagine you could rent one if someone fairly close by is willing. I wouldn't keep a ram by himself though. I have read where some on this list keep their ram with a couple of wethers to keep him company while he is separated from the ewes. That would work also. Chris -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris & Eileen Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:02 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Do we have to have a ram? We are very new to the sheep business & have one dumb question. Do we have to keep a ram? Can we borrow or rent a ram? or Does anyone do AI? Logistically it just seems tough to keep the old boy separate from everyone else. Doesn't he get lonely? Thanks! Eileen The Pacific Northwest ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] postings
Helen, I would find someone that is raising crossed LGDs.You might have to drive into Tenn or somewhere, but not too far I would think. A Pyr/Anatolian cross or something like that. They sell for like $50 usually and make great guardians. I personally believe you have to fight teeth with teeth. JMO Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of helen Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 6:26 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [blackbelly] postings We have had blackbelly sheep for 36 years. Some of our first were mixed with Florida native [whatever that is supposed to be] and have never had any problems with coyotes. Just some "retrained guard dogs" once and a few years ago a Rottwieller (sp?). I can't afford to buy a Llama or donkey for that matter. I am on a very fixed income and Llamas here are sky high. A dog has to be raised with the sheep, so that would be out, too.Some people around here have Great Pyrenees ... but these were strays they took in and they think I will pay $350. for one? I think not. Our double barrel shotgun and patience are all we have, I think. - Original Message - From: "john & judy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 5:30 PM Subject: Re: [blackbelly] postings p.s. on that last post. get a donkey or llama. I have both and they will both run a coyote down and kill it. You have to be proactive to take care of your flock ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Second and Third Year Winter Coats
I haven't noticed a trend per se as they get older, but... I have noticed a difference in coats from year to year on varied ewes. No apparent rhythm nor reason though. One year a ewe has NO wool at all, the next year the same ewe might have a little winter wool and none again the next year. It is usually only one or two ewes and not the same ones. The remaining ewes will have thick winter coats but no wool. Haven't quite got my finger on what is going on. I culled heavily in the early years for traces of wool in their coats. Only kept the ewes and rams showing no wool in the winter and shedding their thicker fur completely in the spring leaving nice slick coats. But, some years that doesn't seem to be the case with a few. This year is no exception. I have one ewe that is showing wool and the rest, nothing. I have never seen this ewe with wool before. I also have another ewe that had a small amount of wool last year and I was anxious to see if she would have it again this year but she is wool free. I guess whenever I notice a recurring case of wool with one particular ewe, I will cull her. So far that hasn't happened. Chris B. To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Second and Third Year Winter Coats Does anyone ever see a change in the amount of winter wool a blackbelly will put on as it matures? Thanks, Barb L. ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] blackbelly Digest, Vol 3, Issue 10
Rick, You should be able to buy one at a plumbing or home improvement store. Or you can order one online. I think the best name to use is "Frost Proof Yard Hydrants" when searching online. As far as a description or explanation, go to this page: http://www.simmonsmfg.com/specifications/hydrant_lengths.html Chris B. ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Sheep everywhere, but here!
Where in Tennesee is your farm located? Thanks, Chris B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stephanie Jones Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 11:55 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [blackbelly] Sheep everywhere, but here! Carr, How are the prices in TX? You stated that you generally take them to the auction. Here in Tennessee, we just about have to give them away until thay are about 7 months old. I would have TO PAY the auction barn if I ran them thru up here. Stephanie - Original Message - From: "Carr DuPuy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:26 AM Subject: Re: [blackbelly] Sheep everywhere, but here! > . My herd produced 18 > lambs last month. I will be ready to sell some of them in the next two > months. ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] water
I used a trencher to run a couple of water lines off the main to the barn and the fence closest to my front door. :0) Installed frost-proof faucets. They work GREAT. Chris B. ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Young Ram
Mishael, I let my sheep all run together 24/7. My young ewes apparently get bred around 6 to 7 months, as they lamb around 11 to 12 months. Never had a problem. If you have a 6/7 month old ram that is WITH a couple of ewes but isn't showing any interest that seems very strange to me. If he is separated from them or possibly if they have already been bred, then that would be a little different. Like Onalee, most of my ramlambs are "breed acting" at a very young age (1 to 2 months) and get more serious by 4 months. I unfortunately know first hand that I had a young ram 4 1/2 months old that bred two ewes. I had sold my herd sire and wasn't able to find a quality replacement as fast as I wanted. I had one young ramlamb and by the time he was 4 months he was mounting several females. By the time the ramlamb was about 5 1/2 months I found my new herd sire and he took over the flock. But, just under 4 months later, two ewes had twins. If it were me, I would put him back with the two ewes and let nature do the rest. But that's just me. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mishael Miller Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 2:33 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Young Ram Hi, Everybody, My tiny herd is doing really well, I can't believe how they blossomed with a little good feed and TLC. I am wondering about my ram, I don't know his exact age probably about 6-7 months old. I am wondering when he will show some interest in the ladies. I am a goat breeder and my buck of same age is coming into rut, do sheep mature slower than goats? Also the breeder I purchased from just let the young ewes run with the ram and get bred when able. Is this the norm? I have seperated him from the 2 ewes, so I can control when they are bred. One of the ewes is a lamb from this spring, the other is aged. I was thinking of breeding the older ewe for April-ish lambs and waiting to breeder the younger until she was a year old- What do you guys do? ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] A Hard Pill to Swallow
Stephanie, No, I don't have any cattle, just sheep and dogs. :0) The bulls refers to Staffordshire Bull Terriers or Staffy bulls for short. Bkbulls= b=Buchanan k=kennels bulls=Staffy Bulls We used to raise and show them, now we just have two. They are great "small" dogs with very sweet dispositions. They resemble their larger cousins the "pit bulls" in appearance. We have raised those also but we only have one left, Roxy, she's our 15 year old house pet and surrogate ewe. :) There is a picture of her on our website - http://bellsouthpwp2.net/b/k/bkbulls/Roxylamb.jpg as a surrogate ewe. We have asked a lot of her over the years, there will never be another one like her. As far as the multi species grazing and it's benefits concerning worms, I'm not sure but I thought I remembered reading something to that affect several months ago. Don't remember exactly what it said though... :( Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stephanie Parrish Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 9:31 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [blackbelly] A Hard Pill to Swallow Chris, I noticed your email address has the word "bulls" in it. Which makes me wonder, do you run sheep and cattle on the same pasture? Could there be some parasite resistance conferred by multi-species grazing going on here as well? Stephanie On Aug 4, 2006, at 12:13 PM, William Buchanan wrote: > After reading this and other replies I must admit I feel sort of lucky. > > I live in hot, wet, muggy Alabama where most people with Dorpers and > goats > must worm every 3 weeks and even then they are fighting a losing battle > according to my vet. > > Compared to you Barb, my methods are pretty reckless(careless, lazy). > > I have never tested anything(sheep, forgage, soil) and only wormed > once in > eight years. I only wormed them then because I had been raising them > for > four years and hadn't wormed yet, so I just felt like I should. But, I > took > my vets advice after that one worming and never wormed again. He told > me I > would probably lose some along the way, but the ones that survived > should be > resistant. He appears to have been right. > > The following year I lost several lambs between 4 and 8 months old. > The next > year I lost a couple of yearling ewes and several more lambs. Last > year I > only lost a few lambs and this year zero(out of 49 lambs). During this > time > I never lost any of my older adults. > > I am figuring it is a combination of genetics and environment. I have > 22 > acres which is half woods and half pasture. I usually winter over > about 40 > adults and after lambing I sell most lambs and keep a few. So, my > place is > definitely not overcrowded but there are enough to keep the place > completely > groomed which is ultimately why I got them in the first place. They > get an > EXTREME variety of saplings, weeds, cedars, vines, and different > grasses(I > think I have a small patch of every kind of grass there is...). > > My sheep always have access to a trace mineral block(w/copper)and I > also > have a plastic barrel of Purina Sheep Mineral hanging in the woods. I > let > them worry about how much of it to consume. I also throw some dog food > over > the fence when the mood strikes me. > > In the winter I provide them with hay and a small amount of corn. They > appear to be adequately nourished and happy. Some ewes have triplets, > most > have twins. > > Chris B. > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > Barb Lee > Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:48 PM > To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info; Rob Johnson > Subject: [blackbelly] A Hard Pill to Swallow > > I am going to tell this story, because I am hoping it will benefit > someone, perhaps get them thinking. The gears in my head are clashing > and breaking right now. I am really conflicted. > > Ever since sheep set foot on my "virgin" property about 2-1/2 years > ago - the first sheep in 25 years, I have had the occasional animal > felled by scouring/wasting. Just out of the blue. No sign of illness > at first, but then a slow decline with no recovery, even with > treatment, > except for one who continues to poop something between dog manure and > green pancake batter, but manages to maintain a good weight. > > By most standards, I would say I run a pretty clean, tight little farm. > Lots of rotational grazing. Low stocking density. I do fecal tests > routinely. Clean environment and with a parasite program that has > included chemical worming, Basic H worming and cocci prev
Re: [blackbelly] A Hard Pill to Swallow
After reading this and other replies I must admit I feel sort of lucky. I live in hot, wet, muggy Alabama where most people with Dorpers and goats must worm every 3 weeks and even then they are fighting a losing battle according to my vet. Compared to you Barb, my methods are pretty reckless(careless, lazy). I have never tested anything(sheep, forgage, soil) and only wormed once in eight years. I only wormed them then because I had been raising them for four years and hadn't wormed yet, so I just felt like I should. But, I took my vets advice after that one worming and never wormed again. He told me I would probably lose some along the way, but the ones that survived should be resistant. He appears to have been right. The following year I lost several lambs between 4 and 8 months old. The next year I lost a couple of yearling ewes and several more lambs. Last year I only lost a few lambs and this year zero(out of 49 lambs). During this time I never lost any of my older adults. I am figuring it is a combination of genetics and environment. I have 22 acres which is half woods and half pasture. I usually winter over about 40 adults and after lambing I sell most lambs and keep a few. So, my place is definitely not overcrowded but there are enough to keep the place completely groomed which is ultimately why I got them in the first place. They get an EXTREME variety of saplings, weeds, cedars, vines, and different grasses(I think I have a small patch of every kind of grass there is...). My sheep always have access to a trace mineral block(w/copper)and I also have a plastic barrel of Purina Sheep Mineral hanging in the woods. I let them worry about how much of it to consume. I also throw some dog food over the fence when the mood strikes me. In the winter I provide them with hay and a small amount of corn. They appear to be adequately nourished and happy. Some ewes have triplets, most have twins. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Barb Lee Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:48 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info; Rob Johnson Subject: [blackbelly] A Hard Pill to Swallow I am going to tell this story, because I am hoping it will benefit someone, perhaps get them thinking. The gears in my head are clashing and breaking right now. I am really conflicted. Ever since sheep set foot on my "virgin" property about 2-1/2 years ago - the first sheep in 25 years, I have had the occasional animal felled by scouring/wasting. Just out of the blue. No sign of illness at first, but then a slow decline with no recovery, even with treatment, except for one who continues to poop something between dog manure and green pancake batter, but manages to maintain a good weight. By most standards, I would say I run a pretty clean, tight little farm. Lots of rotational grazing. Low stocking density. I do fecal tests routinely. Clean environment and with a parasite program that has included chemical worming, Basic H worming and cocci prevention. I know, I know, bad bad bad. These animals are parasite resistant. Yeah, uh huh. Tell me another one. I have tested soils, forages, all feeds and tried to get their immune systems up with nutrition. Anyway, the most recent animal to start scouring was in a dry lot with 4 other ewes, weaning lambs. I tried cocci treatment. The condition got worse. I had wormed with Ivomec less than two months before. It was warm and dry. They were eating dry grass hay out of a manger, not off the ground. She was young and in good flesh. I had had enough with all this chemical crap. Enough of guessing what was going on. We slaughtered the animal, sent the carcass to the butcher and sent the guts to the vet. He took samples of everything - EVERYTHING and sent them to Oregon State University. The best news I got back today is that once and for all, Johne's disease is ruled out. The other good news is that it is NOT the "super cocci" eimeria that is "running rampant" in Oregon right now, that kills its host and is immune to all drugs. You know what is killing my sheep? Parasites! Bloody parasites!!! She had lesions on her intestinal wall from cocci. There were cocci eggs and strongyle eggs in her gut enough to cause clinical disease. So what is the protocol? Oh yeah, professional fecals, what? Monthly? And industrial strength CHEMICALS. Of course! More, and heavier doses! YOU guys - YOU tell me what you would do when your fine, healthy so called parasite resistant animals are s***ting themselves to death, and you've hit them with every class of chemical and they don't respond. You work yourself stupid to provide the right kind of environment. And what happens? Whoops, there goes another one. I'll tell you what I'm going to do. Every single stinkin' one of these animals that poops a green streak is going to be on the hook. I've become an unwitting slave to a chemic
Re: [blackbelly] Ram pen suggestions --- also lamb weight/probs?
Elizabeth, >>"One option is to linebreed a good replacement ram and then put your mean >>ram in the freezer. In general, these guys don't get mean until they are >>about 2 to 2 1/2 years old. If you continue to linebreed a replacement >>every other year, then they won't be around long enough to grow up mean." I think this is an excellent idea, although I have never had an aggressive ram even up to 5 years old and I have had quite a few. From my experience most are not aggressive, but this sounds like a great solution for those that may be worried about it. Chris B. ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Pair of Sheep for sale
Where are you located? How much? Do you have any pics? American Blackbelly? Corsican? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Randy Donahue Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 6:06 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Pair of Sheep for sale We are selling a unrelated pair of sheep that we purchased in April at the sale in Macon. They are great sheep about 6 months old but our kids never took an interest so we need to send them down the road. Randy Donahue ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] sale prices in OKla
Cecil, None of my sheep are registered. I have never had anyone even ask if they were. I think potential buyers can look at the adults and the lambs and decide for themselves. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cecil Bearden Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 4:34 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [blackbelly] sale prices in OKla Susan and William: Are your sheep registered? I have stayed away from the registration because of the need to tag them for ID purposes. I keep my ram rotated in order to prevent inbreeding. My flock is healthy, but just not registered. I would love to get $150 for ewes and lambs... I do not have a website. I need to get one. right now, I am trying to get a decent internet connection. My connection speed is between 4.8 and 19.2 Kbps most of the time. It takes a long time to look at any website, and even longer to upload pictures... Cecil in OKla - Original Message - From: "William Buchanan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 12:43 PM Subject: Re: [blackbelly] sale prices in OKla > > > > I use this Directory to list my sheep website: > > www.nebraskasheep.com/directory/Breeds/ > > I've had over 5000 hits on this site alone and sold a lot of sheep as a > result. > > I agree with Sue, a website showcasing your sheep does wonders. I am in > Alabama and I have people from over 12 hours away (WV and FL) coming to my > farm to buy sheep. Not to mention all MS, GA, and TN. > > Chris B. > > ___ > This message is from the blackbelly mailing list > Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] sale prices in OKla
I use this Directory to list my sheep website: www.nebraskasheep.com/directory/Breeds/ I've had over 5000 hits on this site alone and sold a lot of sheep as a result. I agree with Sue, a website showcasing your sheep does wonders. I am in Alabama and I have people from over 12 hours away (WV and FL) coming to my farm to buy sheep. Not to mention all MS, GA, and TN. Chris B. ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] sale prices in OKla
Oh man... that is sobering... It must be because you live in the area where hay is so expensive and nobody wants to feed them? I read last winter where some people were having to pay close to $100 for a roll of hay??!! I'm guessing, but that is absolutely HORRIBLE. Most people in my area won't pay very much (a lot more than your area though) because they don't understand what they are getting/buying. Most think they are goats and only want to pay $25 to $30 for lambs. For that reason, I don't sell at auctions and sell only to people that know what they are buying and contact me looking for them. Most of my sheep go out of state. Cecil, I sincerely hope things go better for you in the future, Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cecil Bearden Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 6:05 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [blackbelly] sale prices in OKla I just got the check for the sale of 12 rams and 2 ewes that I sold Saturday at the sale at Perkins OK. If this is a preview of what is to come, I will be out of the sheep business I had 2 ewes about 3 years old weighed 80 lbs. They kicked off their babies too early, so I was selling them. They only brought $21.70 ea.. 4 ram lambs were sold as ewes (they were rams) and averaged 25 lbs and only brought 13.50 ea 8 ram lambs averaging 37 lbs brought only 18.43 ea The auction house got $56.00 for the sale, $7.00 for yardage, and $0.44 for insurance. The sheep promoters got $3.50 and the check off got $2.78 I got almost $175 looks like I will also have to buy hay for this winter as the hay crop is not looking too good... Cecil in OKla ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] DE
Sue, "Will it work with calves also?" Yes it worked for mine as far as flies go. I have no idea if it also killed parasites, but "they" claim that it does. :) At the time I didn't have enough sheep to keep my place completely cleaned up so I allowed my neighbor to let his cows over for a few weeks at a time. Each time they came over (dropping their bombs), I fed them some corn with DE. Each time it only took a day or two for the flies to disappear, and as I am sure you are aware, big juicy cow patties are the WORST breeding grounds for flies. As far as obtaining DE, I contacted my County Co-op and they told me that they did not carry it, but they gave me the number of a local farmer that buys it in bulk and resells what he has left. That is how I got mine. The one 50# bag was...(the best I can remember)... about $35. I didn't use half of it that entire summer. I still have the remainder and I would assume it keeps forever since it is just ground up prehistoric fossilized shells. You can look online... one site is: http://www.dirtworks.net/DiatomaceousEarth.html This site explains a little about it and its benefits like fly control, etc. They list the price as $45 for a 50# bag plus shipping. Knowing what I know nowif I ordered it from them I would try the 25# bag for 32.95 + shipping. It goes a long way. Just make sure it is the "food grade", and not the "filter grade" or the kind containing any additives such as pyrethrins, although some DE sold for filters is also food grade. Food grade is very safe. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sue Miller Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 9:19 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [blackbelly] DE Chris, Where can you purchase this DE? Sounds like something that we would be interested in using. Sounds like it is safe and easy to mix with the feed. Will it work with calves also? Sue Miller ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Fly control
I would give Diatomaceous Earth(food grade - very important) a try. It has been "rumored" to be an effective wormer in the past, but I never found that to be either true or false. What I did find out beyond the shadow of a doubt in my experience is that D.E. is a very effective for fly control. The last time I had a bad fly problem, I used it and in like, 2 days, my dog kennels, and sheep were essentially fly free. It was amazing. >From what I understand, the flies mainly reproduce in poop, so everything that eats and poops on your place would need to get some. Supposedly the DE slices up the fly eggs(or larva) while it is in their poop. Don't know if that is true or not, but I do know that the horrible fly problem I had that year disappeared quickly and didn't come back. I continued to use it all that summer(about 6 or so years ago). Until this year, I haven't had a real fly problem to speak of. I am thinking of using it again though as the flies seem to be worse this year. It looks like flour. I would sprinkle a little in the dog's food each day and for the sheep, I took about a 1/2 cup and shook it up in a 5 gallon bucket of corn every few days. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of doublejfarms Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:39 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Fly control am also looking for some way to control biting flies (black flies, yellow flies, horse flies, you name it flies). They are driving the sheep crazier and think I am a blood bank. I have tried "fly strips" and have used permethrin on the animals and in the barn (as indicated on the label) with some limited success. Is there anything that works better??? John Carlton Double J Farms ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Feeding sheep
I live in the northern part of Alabama and I feed hay with a little corn starting usually in December up till the end of March. The rest of the year they have pasture and woods/jungle to maintain. This provides them with an abundance of forage as well as a wide variety. I currently have about 60 head on 20 acres(10 pasture/10 woods). Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kristi & Brian Muck Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:05 PM To: blackbelly Subject: [blackbelly] Feeding sheep I've had my sheep for 3-4 yrs now and other than all the pasture they can handle (we live in Southeast Texas, just east of Houston, so pasture is very plentiful most of the year).I have only ever fed them Purina Show Sheep feed (about 1/2 scoop per sheep). I feed that year round and in the winter when the pasture is not as plentiful I feed a little alfalfa hay. I also feed alfalfa when our ewe is nursing. We have 6 sheep and all are very healthy and happy, so I figure what we're doing is okay! :-) Kristi >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 22:13:23 -0700 >From: "Dayna Denmark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [blackbelly] Questionaire >To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed > >Hello group, >After reading the latest on copper supplements I got to wondering. This >group seems to be spread out over most of the U.S. and I am very curious as >to what each of us feeds our sheep on a regular basis. > >Just curious if you have a minute...what do you feed??? > ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Need Help
Hello list, I just received this email from someone in California that has purchased some BBs and is needing some advice. I thought I would see if any of the more knowledgeable people on this list might be able to lend some advice. His email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello I got your email from the sheep breeders web site. I just purchased 2 barbados rams and 2 ewes. I noticed that 1 of the rams looked a little thin, he wasn't feeding like the others and that his stool was runny so I dewormed him but after 1 day he still didn't show any improvement, so I gave him 3cc of vitamin B complex for 2 days but he still doesn't seem to be feeding and hasn't improved. Now it's going to be Sunday tomorrow and a holiday Monday which means I can't get a vet out here till Tuesday. I live in the hills of central Calif. and was wondering if you could give me any advice on treating him. He barely seems to be drinking any water and I was wondering if he might have some kind of parasites. I have some antibiotics for drinking water, terramycin and aureomycin. I was wondering if I could give him some Nutri-cal high calorie palatable dietary supplement for dogs and cats to help him get something in his stomach. I don't know if he even had worms. I can hear his stomach churning now and then. I had once had a goat that had similar symptoms and gave him some vitamin B-1 and that seemed to help him as he recovered within a day or so and began feeding again. Do you have any suggestions? I would greatly appreciate any advice. I'd hate to lose him, he's a tame and good looking guy. thanks for your time JR << ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at %http://www.blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] deworming
Carol, Reading your reply makes me feel better about MY vet. I took some stool samples about 3 or 4 years ago to my vet. He told me they had worms. I bought some ivomec and gave them all a "squirt". BUT, my vets advice was NOT to worm them since I hadn't ever wormed them in the 4 to 5 years prior and the sheep were more or less a "hobby" for me. He suggested to apply - "survival of the fittest" - nature's law. He said, "you will most likely lose some along the way, but what lives will only make your flock stronger and eventually you will have a much more parasite resistant/tolerant flock." After worming my sheep I thought long and hard about what the vet said and decided to go for it from then on. It has worked fine. The losses have been few(not sure the few losses I have had were to worms anyway). I haven't lost a single adult and the only lambs that have "come up missing", are 4 to 8 months old. And this is after doubling the size of my flock since then from about 30ish to 60ish on 22 acres (10 acres pasture). The vet cautioned me against getting too overcrowded and also a few words about "pasture rotating". He said you need to rotate them even if it isn't routinely, and if you try to keep too many sheep, no amount of parasite resistance will save them. NOTE: He didn't specify how many "too many" was... I am glad I read about the "eyelid" test, I think I will do it just to see how they measure up. I might even get real ambitious and learn how to do my own fecals and start keeping records! Which reminds me, I also talked recently to my State Vet (about ear tags) and while talking with her I mentioned what I was doing. She raises Katahdins and she was totally blown away with my results. She thought it was an EXCELLENT idea and that I should definitely continue with "no worming". Anyway, they appear to be very healthy. I finally got a digital camera and I have updated my website with some new photos. You can check them out here: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&ext=1&groupid=299233&ck= Thanks, Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Carol J. Elkins Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:59 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] deworming Hi David, Your question prompts me to reiterate what has become over the years my regular "lecture" on parasite management. These comments are not directed at you, but more to folks new to sheep and new to the Blackbelly listserv. Blackbelly sheep are much more tolerant of a parasite load than other breeds of sheep. So my first rule of thumb is "know thy parasites." Take regular stool samples from your flock and either have your vet do a fecal egg count or learn to do your own. If your sheep have worms, don't ecessarily run out and buy dewormer. Depending on the type of worm, blackbellies can withstand the parasite load. The most common worm is Haemonchus Contortus , and a good measure of how your sheep tolerate this worm is to do the Famacha eyelid test. It identifies the level of anemia by comparing the color of the eyelid and comparing it to a chart. You can learn a lot about this test by searching the Internet; a good place to start is http://www.ansc.purdue.edu/meatgoat/FAMACHA.htm ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.info
[blackbelly] RR and QR
Hello all, While reading some stuff on hairsheep, I ran across some Katahdin people talking about their sheep being RR and QR and QQ. I read on to discover these letters have something to do with the sheep's genetic resistance to getting scrapie if exposed? Not really sure on that... but apparently RR is the most desired. ANYWAY, have these tests been run on any Barbados sheep that anyone is aware of? It would be interesting to see how our sheep stack up. Thanks Chris B ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Number of lambs
Not all that common from my experience. I have one ewe that has triplets every winter/spring and a set of twins every fall. She has been having triplets every year for the last 6 years. NONE of her offspring, some now 5 and six years old, have ever had a set of triplets. But they are very heavy milkers(like their mother) and always have a set of twins about every 7 months. All my blackbelly ewes have singles the first year, then twins from there on. I have about 6 corsican(Mouflon sire) ewes, one had a set of twins a few weeks ago, but the rest usually have a single and only once a year due to the Mouflon influence. Chris B. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nancy Richardson Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:12 AM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Number of lambs Hello, can anyone tell me how common it is for a BB ewe to have triplets? Nancy ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.in fo ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.info
Re: [blackbelly] Mini Tags for Scrapie/NAIS
When you put in the scrapie tags, which do you use? The 2x or the mini? Thanks Chris B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of The Wintermutes Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 6:32 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: Re: [blackbelly] Mini Tags for Scrapie/NAIS We put in the brass tags within 3 days of birth. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of William Buchanan Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 3:28 PM To: blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info Subject: [blackbelly] Mini Tags for Scrapie/NAIS Anyone using Premiere's Mini Tags? Our State will issue the 2x tags free, but I have to buy the mini tags. I don't mind buying the mini tags if they are smaller(better). I was just wondering if anyone had tried both and thought the mini tags were better. Chris B. ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.in fo ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.in fo ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.info
[blackbelly] Mini Tags for Scrapie/NAIS
Anyone using Premiere's Mini Tags? Our State will issue the 2x tags free, but I have to buy the mini tags. I don't mind buying the mini tags if they are smaller(better). I was just wondering if anyone had tried both and thought the mini tags were better. Chris B. ___ This message is from the blackbelly mailing list Visit the list's homepage at blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info http://lists.blackbellysheep.info/listinfo.cgi/blackbelly-blackbellysheep.info
