RE: [BlindHandyMan] vehicle homologation.

[Larry Stansifer]

Robert,

Vehicle homologation is the process used by a race
sanctioning body to place cars in their respective
competition classes.

Regards
 
Larry Stansifer
 
Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.
 
Sun Tzu.


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of robert
moore
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:51 PM
To: Blind Handyman
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] vehicle homologation.


Larry 
vehicle homologation?
Pardon my ignorance but what does that mean?



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[BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Lee A. Stone]

 I know a couple of years ago we had a discussion on this list about 
those Little Giant Ladders.  Well I finally got the chance to  try to 
pick  one up in a Sams Club we went  to. Not to buy it but just to heaft 
the thing. I'm thinking it weighs more than my old wooden two stage 
Ladder. It is also out of my price range, not that I am in the market to 
buy such a ladder. I own a basic  2 stage   Al. ladder  and a very old  
two stage  wooden ladder which i inherited as it came with the last 
house and a six foot   I think fiberglass step ladder. that little giant 
seems to me also that on days like today that it would be mighty 
slippery. L



-- 
"It's today!" said Piglet.
"My favorite day," said Pooh.


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question

[Dan Rossi]

victor,

You've already got answers to most of your questions, the only thing I 
might add is that, and I don't know just how true it is, but cycling a fan 
on and off, might be more damaging than keeping it on, due to current 
spikes and such.

Just a thought.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[David & Patricia Ferrin]

If I ever need such an animal you can bet it will land in my garage real quick. 
They are slick for sure, my brother has one.
David Ferrin
http://www.jaws-users.com
- Original Message - 
From: Lee A. Stone 
To: Blind Handyman 
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders




I know a couple of years ago we had a discussion on this list about 
those Little Giant Ladders. Well I finally got the chance to try to 
pick one up in a Sams Club we went to. Not to buy it but just to heaft 
the thing. I'm thinking it weighs more than my old wooden two stage 
Ladder. It is also out of my price range, not that I am in the market to 
buy such a ladder. I own a basic 2 stage Al. ladder and a very old 
two stage wooden ladder which i inherited as it came with the last 
house and a six foot I think fiberglass step ladder. that little giant 
seems to me also that on days like today that it would be mighty 
slippery. L

-- 
"It's today!" said Piglet.
"My favorite day," said Pooh.


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] shop teachers was gear heads

[Dan Rossi]

I was lucky enough to have a shop teacher back in junior high who took an 
interest in teaching a blind student.  He did everything in his power to 
include me in the class.  Each time we learned about a new machine, a 
drill press, a jointer, a table saw, I was always his test subject.  he 
would show me all the parts of the machine and how it worked, and then 
would have me drill a hole, joint a board, or whatever was required for a 
demo.

I credit him with my interest in wood working, which I am only now really 
getting into.  I've received calls from him over the years, and met his 
daughter who also attended CMU.  Just about two weeks ago, I received an 
email from his daughter with the sad news that Mr. D had passed away.

He was a rare breed.  The kind of teacher who saw a blind student as a 
challenge and not a nuisance.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] vehicle homologation.

[Dan Rossi]

Larry,

I think you are a bit ahead of the game here.  The race that Lee is in, is 
not really a competitive race.  It isn't for race sstandings, and there 
isn't a national blind driver race circuit.  it is a once a year, have 
some fun, wreck some cars, raise some cash event.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] vehicle homologation.

[Larry Stansifer]

Damn Dan...

I do believe you may have come up with the makings of a
mission statement.

Regards
 
Larry Stansifer
 
Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.
 
Sun Tzu.


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan
Rossi
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 9:06 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] vehicle homologation.


Larry,

I think you are a bit ahead of the game here.  The race that
Lee is in, is 
not really a competitive race.  It isn't for race
sstandings, and there 
isn't a national blind driver race circuit.  it is a once a
year, have 
some fun, wreck some cars, raise some cash event.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions
>From Various List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Michael Baldwin]

Home Depot sells the same ladder under a different name for about 1/3 of the
cost.  I do not recall the brand name it is sold under.  the only regret I
have with mine is that I didn't get the 20 foot instead of the 13 foot.
Michael
 
 


  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 09:21
To: Blind Handyman
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders





I know a couple of years ago we had a discussion on this list about 
those Little Giant Ladders. Well I finally got the chance to try to 
pick one up in a Sams Club we went to. Not to buy it but just to heaft 
the thing. I'm thinking it weighs more than my old wooden two stage 
Ladder. It is also out of my price range, not that I am in the market to 
buy such a ladder. I own a basic 2 stage Al. ladder and a very old 
two stage wooden ladder which i inherited as it came with the last 
house and a six foot I think fiberglass step ladder. that little giant 
seems to me also that on days like today that it would be mighty 
slippery. L

-- 
"It's today!" said Piglet.
"My favorite day," said Pooh.


 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question

[Tom Fowle]

victor,
You're right, a motor whether A.C. or D.C. takes just so much
power to operate it, about 750 watts per horse power or so.
doesn't matter a dime whether it's A.C. or D.C.  Except that the
power feeding your furnace is A.C. and has to be rectified to
make it D.C. some efficiency lost there I suppose.

it can be said that the power consumed by the fan is a very small
portion of that consumed by the entire furnace, but it still
costs power to run the motor.

What you'd accomplish with running the fan all the time depends
on where the return intake is.
If, for example, the return intake is in a part of the house that
tends to remain cooler, then perhaps you'd move cooler air around
better.

I had a friend who had a "summer' return intake put into his
basement.  He didn't have air conditioning, but when it was
summer and he switched the intake to the basement port and just
ran the fan as needed, the house was much cooler than one would
expect.

However, i always wonder about advice from guys in government
sponsored programs.  They're usually just contractors who have
low bid on the city job, and are probably looking for more work.

I wouldn't do it without another opinion.

tom


Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Scientific thermometer for the blind?

[Tom Fowle]

Dale,
Since AFB stopped making their talking thermometer years ago i
havn't seen one.

Only hope I can hold out is Tom Benham's old company, now being
run by his wife Lee.
Science products for the blind
in Ballacynwyd P.A.

Don't have the phone here, will find it at work unless someone
else has it.

going to cost you an arm and half a polar bear though.

There might be PC based thermometers that would be screen reader accessible
but I havn't tried them.

tom


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] router bit in a drill chuck?

[Tom Fowle]

Drill presses do not have bearings which can handle the sideways
forces you find in routing. Also it is likely the chuck will work
loose with the sideways pressure.  also routing requires much
higher speeds than drills can produce.

theyjust are not the same tool.

the least bad thing that will happen is you'll get a messy job
with rough edges and not be able to cut straight, then you ruin
your drill press.

worse than that is flying bits.

don't do it.

tom


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads

[Tom Fowle]

Although i have an anti car bias, i think this society has become
way too much involved with cars, I would rather see everything
stay here unless the car stuff overwhelms the other areas of
interest.

so long as there is reasonable ballance on the list, as there is
now, I favor a single list.

Tom Fowle

 


Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Scientific thermometer for the blind?

[Dan Rossi]

I already wrote Dale off list, but here is some info.

Dale Campbell from this list and the BHM show, runs www.BlindMiceMart.com 
He has several talking thermometers for sale.  One is 27 bucks I think, 
and has a range from -4 to 254 degrees F.  another is 100 bucks and has a 
range from minus 55 to plus 257 F.  It didn't say what the accuracy was.

Hope that helps.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] shop teachers was gear heads

[John Schwery]

At the orientation center in Iowa, I had a good shop teacher.  My 
teacher for machine shop school was pretty good, too.  He used to 
say, I don't care what happens to you, just don't get any blood on my machines.

earlier, Dan Rossi, wrote:

>I was lucky enough to have a shop teacher back in junior high who took an
>interest in teaching a blind student. He did everything in his power to
>include me in the class. Each time we learned about a new machine, a
>drill press, a jointer, a table saw, I was always his test subject. he
>would show me all the parts of the machine and how it worked, and then
>would have me drill a hole, joint a board, or whatever was required for a
>demo.
>
>I credit him with my interest in wood working, which I am only now really
>getting into. I've received calls from him over the years, and met his
>daughter who also attended CMU. Just about two weeks ago, I received an
>email from his daughter with the sad news that Mr. D had passed away.
>
>He was a rare breed. The kind of teacher who saw a blind student as a
>challenge and not a nuisance.
>
>--
>Blue skies.
>Dan Rossi
>Carnegie Mellon University.
>E-Mail:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Tel:(412) 268-9081
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 
>6/3/2007 12:47 PM

John


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 6/3/2007 12:47 PM




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] shop teachers was gear heads

[David Sexton]

That reminds me of when I read about someone's son using their bandsaw to cut 
up a deer. What a mess!
Just 'cause they use bandsaws in meat-packing plants doesn't mean they're the 
same as woodworking bandsaws. lol
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:31 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] shop teachers was gear heads


  At the orientation center in Iowa, I had a good shop teacher. My 
  teacher for machine shop school was pretty good, too. He used to 
  say, I don't care what happens to you, just don't get any blood on my 
machines.

  earlier, Dan Rossi, wrote:

  >I was lucky enough to have a shop teacher back in junior high who took an
  >interest in teaching a blind student. He did everything in his power to
  >include me in the class. Each time we learned about a new machine, a
  >drill press, a jointer, a table saw, I was always his test subject. he
  >would show me all the parts of the machine and how it worked, and then
  >would have me drill a hole, joint a board, or whatever was required for a
  >demo.
  >
  >I credit him with my interest in wood working, which I am only now really
  >getting into. I've received calls from him over the years, and met his
  >daughter who also attended CMU. Just about two weeks ago, I received an
  >email from his daughter with the sad news that Mr. D had passed away.
  >
  >He was a rare breed. The kind of teacher who saw a blind student as a
  >challenge and not a nuisance.
  >
  >--
  >Blue skies.
  >Dan Rossi
  >Carnegie Mellon University.
  >E-Mail:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >Tel:(412) 268-9081
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 
  >6/3/2007 12:47 PM

  John

  -- 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 6/3/2007 12:47 
PM



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[robert moore]

Could you describe these latters you are talking about? I have never heard
of them.
 I have a friend that has a latter that kind of folds up I did not see how
it works but I am wondering if is the same thing. It was very heavy.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of David & Patricia Ferrin
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 9:38 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

If I ever need such an animal you can bet it will land in my garage real
quick. They are slick for sure, my brother has one.
David Ferrin
http://www.jaws-users.com 
- Original Message -
From: Lee A. Stone
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

I know a couple of years ago we had a discussion on this list about
those Little Giant Ladders. Well I finally got the chance to try to
pick one up in a Sams Club we went to. Not to buy it but just to heaft
the thing. I'm thinking it weighs more than my old wooden two stage
Ladder. It is also out of my price range, not that I am in the market to
buy such a ladder. I own a basic 2 stage Al. ladder and a very old
two stage wooden ladder which i inherited as it came with the last
house and a six foot I think fiberglass step ladder. that little giant
seems to me also that on days like today that it would be mighty
slippery. L

--
"It's today!" said Piglet.
"My favorite day," said Pooh.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Gardeners Guide To Starting Seeds

[robert moore]

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Boyce, Ray
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:48 PM
To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Gardeners Guide To Starting Seeds

Hi Everyone
Gardener's Guide to Starting Seeds

With the weather warming up, your attention may be going more and more
towards outdoor pursuits. With that in mind, here are some suggestions on
seeding.

This material comes from the National Park Service: www.nps.gov.

Planting

Make sure, whether planting seeds or plants, to know the time of the year
most appropriate to do so for the particular species and type of material
being
used. For example, if the seeds require cold winter weather before they are
able to germinate, and artificial exposure to those types of conditions will
not occur before planting, they should be planted in the fall. Or, in
temperate areas, rooted plants are typically planted in the spring, after
the harsher
weather of winter has finished. This gives them a whole growing season to
establish themselves before winter sets in again.

The following sections detail some of the things that should be considered
when seeding or planting.

Timing

Since seeds require moisture to germinate, seeding usually should take place
at the time of year when a lot of moisture is available. For many areas,
this
is fall or spring. Summer plantings are possible if irrigation is available
for that season. This will vary from region to region; different regions
appear
to have better results with certain seasons.

Seed germination requirements should also influence the timing of the
seeding. Different species may need to be planted during different seasons
in order
to maximize germination. If the seeds require stratification before
germination, they should be seeded at a time when they will receive that
stratification.
For example, many seeds in temperate climates require a cold, moist
stratification. These seeds could be planted in the fall so that they are
stratified
during the winter and then will germinate in the spring. However, this
method exposes the seeds to possible predation and other stresses for a
longer period
of time, so some recommend artificially stratifying the seed and then
planting when it is ready to germinate.

Seasonal differences in the seed germination rates should also be
considered. Not all species germinate at the same time. If the project has
seeds that
have different optimal seasons for germination, perhaps the seeds should be
divided up into different mixes, such as a spring mix and a fall mix.
Availability
of seed species will limit the mix as well.

Mulch

Adding weed-free mulch after seeding offers many benefits for successful
seed germination:

* Provides physical substrate for the seeds so they are not blown or washed
off site.
* Provides physical protection for the seeds from extremes in temperature,
light, and moisture.
* Provides additional source of local native seed if local native hay is
used.
* Retains moisture, which is important for successful germination.
* Reduces soil erosion.

Mulch can take many forms (organic and inorganic), and all have advantages
and disadvantages. Some examples of mulch materials are: bark, wood chips,
weed-free
straw, leaves, weed-free local native hay, crushed stone, black plastic,
newspaper, and erosion control fiber mat materials. The mulch should be
applied
in such a way as to not suppress seed growth when the seeds start to
germinate. In other words, it should be applied in a thin enough layer so
that the
seeds (especially small ones) would not be buried too deeply.

Planting Young Plants

Careful and correct planting techniques are critical to the survivability of
young transplants. The following general guidelines should help ensure
success.

Choose a day with moderate weather conditions. Try not to plant on days with
extreme heat, cold, moisture or wind. Minimize root exposure before
planting.
Do everything possible to prepare for planting before removing the plant
from its container or other root protection. Collect all necessary tools,
distribute
plants around the site to their expected locations, prepare the water
supply, dig the holes, and any other arrangements necessary.

Make each planting hole twice the diameter and just slightly deeper than the
height of the container or rootball. Planting holes for bare-root plants
need
to be large enough so the roots are not crowded together in the hole. The
cross-section of the planting hole should be bowl or lens shaped instead of
cylindrical
because the roots need to spread horizontally to the surface to take
advantage of available oxygen. The larger and wider the planting hole, the
better.

Roughen the sides and bottom of the planting hole with the sharp edge of a
shovel or other implement. One of the greatest difficulties for transplant
roots
to overcome is to breach the planting hole/new soil interface. Roughening
the surfaces of the plantin

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[David & Patricia Ferrin]

It seems to just collapse down sort of like an antenna just extends out from a 
radio. They can go straight out to lean against something or even be used as a 
free standing step latter. The real advantage as I see it is that once you're 
done using it takes up very little storage room, fold it up and stand it in the 
corner of a shed ETC. Certainly for somebody who doesn't have a garage or in 
another manner limited by space a must have for sure. 
David Ferrin
http://www.jaws-users.com
- Original Message - 
From: robert moore 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders


Could you describe these latters you are talking about? I have never heard
of them.
I have a friend that has a latter that kind of folds up I did not see how
it works but I am wondering if is the same thing. It was very heavy.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of David & Patricia Ferrin
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 9:38 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

If I ever need such an animal you can bet it will land in my garage real
quick. They are slick for sure, my brother has one.
David Ferrin
http://www.jaws-users.com 
- Original Message -
From: Lee A. Stone
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

I know a couple of years ago we had a discussion on this list about
those Little Giant Ladders. Well I finally got the chance to try to
pick one up in a Sams Club we went to. Not to buy it but just to heaft
the thing. I'm thinking it weighs more than my old wooden two stage
Ladder. It is also out of my price range, not that I am in the market to
buy such a ladder. I own a basic 2 stage Al. ladder and a very old
two stage wooden ladder which i inherited as it came with the last
house and a six foot I think fiberglass step ladder. that little giant
seems to me also that on days like today that it would be mighty
slippery. L

--
"It's today!" said Piglet.
"My favorite day," said Pooh.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Dan Rossi]

If I might expand on what Dave has explained about the Little Giant 
ladder.  It has multiple sections of ladder that are hinged together and 
can lock into multiple positions.  Thus, you can unfold the ladder 
completely and make a single long ladder.  You can have it fold in the 
middle to make like an a frame step ladder.  You can have say three 
sections on one side and one section on the other so that you can stand it 
on stairs or a hill.  You can have the end sections vertical and the two 
middle sections horizontal and make a tressel or scaffold.

Hope that explains it.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Dale Leavens]

At the risk of annoying someone, I have read more than one report about these 
ladders which insist that although at demonstration displays where the salesman 
flips the ladder about into and out of all sorts of configurations for tackling 
every imaginable climbing and trestle task apparently effortlessly, it is a 
very different thing to achieve on your own.

I did however write this some months, maybe years ago now and was soundly told 
by a list member, don't remember who that the ladders are just wonderful. 
Clearly someone is buying them and lots of them.

I have a 28 foot and 24 foot extension ladder both of which I find fairly 
difficult to wrestle about and all they do is go up and down. Mind you a 15 
foot ladder would be half the weight and would provide a short trestle to a 
height useful I suppose around a single story house.

Anyway, my advice is to be ware. Any serious use of a platform probably is best 
achieved with a proper scaffold.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype Dale
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders


  If I might expand on what Dave has explained about the Little Giant 
  ladder. It has multiple sections of ladder that are hinged together and 
  can lock into multiple positions. Thus, you can unfold the ladder 
  completely and make a single long ladder. You can have it fold in the 
  middle to make like an a frame step ladder. You can have say three 
  sections on one side and one section on the other so that you can stand it 
  on stairs or a hill. You can have the end sections vertical and the two 
  middle sections horizontal and make a tressel or scaffold.

  Hope that explains it.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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[BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door

[Rick Boggess]

What is the piece called that controls how fast/slow a storm door closes?
In addition, you can push the metal piece back to hold the door open.

My storm door on the patio closes fine at just about the right speed.
However, I've recently noticed that it slips when I have the piece pushed
back to hold it open?  Is there an adjustment or something I can do to
prevent the door from closing when I want it to stay open.  To the best of
my knowledge the screw at the end of the piece controls how fast the door
closes.

Rick Boggess




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door

[David & Patricia Ferrin]

That item bares the clever name of a closer interestingly enough. Adjusting it 
is done by detaching it if memory serves and turning the thing on it's stem to 
shorten or lengthen it. They are really not very costly at all. I replaced mine 
some years ago for a 10 dollar bill actually.
David Ferrin
http://www.jaws-users.com
- Original Message - 
From: Rick Boggess 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door


What is the piece called that controls how fast/slow a storm door closes?
In addition, you can push the metal piece back to hold the door open.

My storm door on the patio closes fine at just about the right speed.
However, I've recently noticed that it slips when I have the piece pushed
back to hold it open? Is there an adjustment or something I can do to
prevent the door from closing when I want it to stay open. To the best of
my knowledge the screw at the end of the piece controls how fast the door
closes.

Rick Boggess



 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads

[carl]

hi i don't kno anything about engiens apart from the extream basics but i'd 
like to learn
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Sexton 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads


  I, as a woodworker, enjoy the talk about motors and such. It was only fait 
that I took a high school woodshop class instead of the metal shop class. I did 
try to take a small engines class, but the teacher wasn't very cooperative. 
  Maybe a new list should be started for hmm, the industrial arts? I don't 
know. Many people on the list are hobbiests and even experts in various fields 
that go way beyond handyman stuff, but I think that just adds to the list. 
  I for one vote that everything be kept on this list as I've got enough lists 
already.
  David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:02 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads

  Robert,

  I'm not sure how your idea for a blind guy automotive based
  list would fly. 
  I for one really enjoy reading all of the sawdust talk that
  goes on here. I don't understand about 90% of it but I like
  reading about it. Maybe some day I will get brave and trade
  in tubing bender, rivet gun, torque wrench, micrometers,
  dial indicators, and all of the rest of the shit I have in
  my tool -box for some of the wood-working stuff you all talk
  about.
  What do you think guys? sawdust for motor oil, decking a
  house for decking heads and blocks, high pressure induction
  systems for high pressure water systems, souper-charged
  motors for souper glued joints.
  It all sounds like fun to me even if I don't know what the
  whole wood thing is about.

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer

  Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.

  Sun Tzu.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Brice Mijares]

Does anyone know what  the longest model they make in these type ladders? 
Some one on this list mentioned they could be bought at home depot for a 
third of the cost.  Will this person please give us a rough idea of what 
that cost is? 



To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door

[Dale Leavens]

You are correct about the use of the screw.

The little slider though holds by virtue of the fact that the hole in it is a 
little larger than the rod it slides on so, when forced it shifts a little and 
pinches on the rod. If the rod is a little too smooth or a little slippery 
maybe with a little oil or grease on it the little square washer doo-dad will 
slip as you have already noticed or if the edges of it get a little warn so 
they aren't quite sharp enough to bight into the rod a little it won't hold.

The device is called a door closer, Go figure! You can almost certainly buy a 
replacement at most hardware or building supply stores, I am guessing under ten 
bucks although I am frequently surprised at how prices climb.

Hope this helps.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Boggess 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:36 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door


  What is the piece called that controls how fast/slow a storm door closes?
  In addition, you can push the metal piece back to hold the door open.

  My storm door on the patio closes fine at just about the right speed.
  However, I've recently noticed that it slips when I have the piece pushed
  back to hold it open? Is there an adjustment or something I can do to
  prevent the door from closing when I want it to stay open. To the best of
  my knowledge the screw at the end of the piece controls how fast the door
  closes.

  Rick Boggess



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[David & Patricia Ferrin]

You know I think there are actually two models probably from different 
companies. The gorilla and the little giant if memory serves.
David Ferrin
http://www.jaws-users.com
- Original Message - 
From: Brice Mijares 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders


Does anyone know what the longest model they make in these type ladders? 
Some one on this list mentioned they could be bought at home depot for a 
third of the cost. Will this person please give us a rough idea of what 
that cost is? 



 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door

[robert moore]

Rick I just checked out my screen door and what I found was that the little
tab that is supposed to hold the door open needs to have the bent portion on
the top If the bent piece is pointed down my door closes very easy but iif
it is pointed up it holds just fine. If that does not help you can try to
bend the tab inward a bit with a plyers.
I think I would try this before I spent money on a new one. The good news is
that if you brake or bend any thing trying to bend the tab then replacing it
with a new one will not be that spendy or difficult.
Robert
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Rick Boggess
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door

What is the piece called that controls how fast/slow a storm door closes?
In addition, you can push the metal piece back to hold the door open.

My storm door on the patio closes fine at just about the right speed.
However, I've recently noticed that it slips when I have the piece pushed
back to hold it open? Is there an adjustment or something I can do to
prevent the door from closing when I want it to stay open. To the best of
my knowledge the screw at the end of the piece controls how fast the door
closes.

Rick Boggess



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind auto racing.part 2

[Lee A. Stone]

this year there will be a safety neeting put across the windshield  of 
each car. Lee



-- 
"It's today!" said Piglet.
"My favorite day," said Pooh.


To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sanctioning Body

[Lee A. Stone]

I'll see if I can get that information Larry.Lee



-- 
"It's today!" said Piglet.
"My favorite day," said Pooh.


To listen to the show archives go to link
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Gardeners Guide To Starting Seeds

[robert moore]

Sorry about reposting the information about starting seeds. I forwarded it
to my wifes email and some how must have accedentaly copied it to the group.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of robert moore
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 12:08 PM
To: Wife Evie Moore; blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Gardeners Guide To Starting Seeds



-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]On
Behalf Of Boyce, Ray
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:48 PM
To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com 
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Gardeners Guide To Starting Seeds

Hi Everyone
Gardener's Guide to Starting Seeds

With the weather warming up, your attention may be going more and more
towards outdoor pursuits. With that in mind, here are some suggestions on
seeding.

This material comes from the National Park Service: www.nps.gov.

Planting

Make sure, whether planting seeds or plants, to know the time of the year
most appropriate to do so for the particular species and type of material
being
used. For example, if the seeds require cold winter weather before they are
able to germinate, and artificial exposure to those types of conditions will
not occur before planting, they should be planted in the fall. Or, in
temperate areas, rooted plants are typically planted in the spring, after
the harsher
weather of winter has finished. This gives them a whole growing season to
establish themselves before winter sets in again.

The following sections detail some of the things that should be considered
when seeding or planting.

Timing

Since seeds require moisture to germinate, seeding usually should take place
at the time of year when a lot of moisture is available. For many areas,
this
is fall or spring. Summer plantings are possible if irrigation is available
for that season. This will vary from region to region; different regions
appear
to have better results with certain seasons.

Seed germination requirements should also influence the timing of the
seeding. Different species may need to be planted during different seasons
in order
to maximize germination. If the seeds require stratification before
germination, they should be seeded at a time when they will receive that
stratification.
For example, many seeds in temperate climates require a cold, moist
stratification. These seeds could be planted in the fall so that they are
stratified
during the winter and then will germinate in the spring. However, this
method exposes the seeds to possible predation and other stresses for a
longer period
of time, so some recommend artificially stratifying the seed and then
planting when it is ready to germinate.

Seasonal differences in the seed germination rates should also be
considered. Not all species germinate at the same time. If the project has
seeds that
have different optimal seasons for germination, perhaps the seeds should be
divided up into different mixes, such as a spring mix and a fall mix.
Availability
of seed species will limit the mix as well.

Mulch

Adding weed-free mulch after seeding offers many benefits for successful
seed germination:

* Provides physical substrate for the seeds so they are not blown or washed
off site.
* Provides physical protection for the seeds from extremes in temperature,
light, and moisture.
* Provides additional source of local native seed if local native hay is
used.
* Retains moisture, which is important for successful germination.
* Reduces soil erosion.

Mulch can take many forms (organic and inorganic), and all have advantages
and disadvantages. Some examples of mulch materials are: bark, wood chips,
weed-free
straw, leaves, weed-free local native hay, crushed stone, black plastic,
newspaper, and erosion control fiber mat materials. The mulch should be
applied
in such a way as to not suppress seed growth when the seeds start to
germinate. In other words, it should be applied in a thin enough layer so
that the
seeds (especially small ones) would not be buried too deeply.

Planting Young Plants

Careful and correct planting techniques are critical to the survivability of
young transplants. The following general guidelines should help ensure
success.

Choose a day with moderate weather conditions. Try not to plant on days with
extreme heat, cold, moisture or wind. Minimize root exposure before
planting.
Do everything possible to prepare for planting before removing the plant
from its container or other root protection. Collect all necessary tools,
distribute
plants around the site to their expected locations, prepare the water
supply, dig the holes, and any other arrangements necessary.

Make each planting hole twice the diameter and just slightly deeper than the
height of the container or rootball. Planting holes for bare-root plants
need
to be large e

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Lee A. Stone]

the ladder I checked out at Sams Club was mostly still in the box. all I 
can say is that was no lightweight. I am with Dale. I've got enough 
trouble  using a regular  extension. Now if you were  much younger than 
I and had the money . well to each their own.Lee



-- 
"It's today!" said Piglet.
"My favorite day," said Pooh.


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi,
 
Could you please explain a little more about returns.  In my home each room
has it's own heat vent and return vent.  Some of the larger rooms have two
of each.  How would I get my heating/cooling system to draw air from the
basement to help cool the first and second floors?  Thanks.
 
Take care,
Ed
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:21 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question



victor,
You're right, a motor whether A.C. or D.C. takes just so much
power to operate it, about 750 watts per horse power or so.
doesn't matter a dime whether it's A.C. or D.C. Except that the
power feeding your furnace is A.C. and has to be rectified to
make it D.C. some efficiency lost there I suppose.

it can be said that the power consumed by the fan is a very small
portion of that consumed by the entire furnace, but it still
costs power to run the motor.

What you'd accomplish with running the fan all the time depends
on where the return intake is.
If, for example, the return intake is in a part of the house that
tends to remain cooler, then perhaps you'd move cooler air around
better.

I had a friend who had a "summer' return intake put into his
basement. He didn't have air conditioning, but when it was
summer and he switched the intake to the basement port and just
ran the fan as needed, the house was much cooler than one would
expect.

However, i always wonder about advice from guys in government
sponsored programs. They're usually just contractors who have
low bid on the city job, and are probably looking for more work.

I wouldn't do it without another opinion.

tom

Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[spiro]

oh yes! This is what I didn't have when my height and a mop couldn't clean 
the walls and ceiling of the stairwell from smelling like dust a month 
ago. I am not longer willing to stand one foot on the railing and the rest 
of me out over the middle of the flight of stairs.
Thees is so good!

On Mon, 4 Jun 2007, Dan Rossi wrote:

> If I might expand on what Dave has explained about the Little Giant
> ladder.  It has multiple sections of ladder that are hinged together and
> can lock into multiple positions.  Thus, you can unfold the ladder
> completely and make a single long ladder.  You can have it fold in the
> middle to make like an a frame step ladder.  You can have say three
> sections on one side and one section on the other so that you can stand it
> on stairs or a hill.  You can have the end sections vertical and the two
> middle sections horizontal and make a tressel or scaffold.
>
> Hope that explains it.
>
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel:  (412) 268-9081
>


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Dan Rossi]

AH, I have been corrected.  Not that I was wrong, I've never been wrong, I 
just wasn't absolutely correct.  *GRIN*

there are various ladders of this type, according to someone who owns a 
Little Giant Specifically, you can't use it as a tressel with the two ends 
vertical and the two middle pieces horizontal.  You have to separate it 
and make two A frames and lay boards across the tops of the A frames.

I know there is one version of this type of ladder that you can make a 
tressel out of though.  So, make sure you read the box so you know exactly 
what you are getting.

Later.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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[BlindHandyMan] folding ladders

[Lenny McHugh]

Interesting, I just called Home Depot.
They carry both the Little Giant and a store brand.
The 17' LG is about $360 and the other is about $160. The LG 20"  is about $400 
and the other brand 21" is about $200. The person to whom I was talking said 
that the other brand does not look as strong as the LG. The aluminum is thinner 
and the welds did not look as good.
I have been looking at these for a few years. Just can't justify the $400 for 
putting up Christmas decorations.
I have a friend who has one and he can no longer use it. He refuses to sell it 
to me for fear that I would get hurt using it. 

Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Rob Monitor]

Yes a wile ago early one Sunday morning I was flipping around the TV channels 
and there was one of those info commercial on the little big latter or what 
ever its call. But Didn't watch it but I'm sure  you could find it some early 
morning if you are up...
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 3:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders


  oh yes! This is what I didn't have when my height and a mop couldn't clean 
  the walls and ceiling of the stairwell from smelling like dust a month 
  ago. I am not longer willing to stand one foot on the railing and the rest 
  of me out over the middle of the flight of stairs.
  Thees is so good!

  On Mon, 4 Jun 2007, Dan Rossi wrote:

  > If I might expand on what Dave has explained about the Little Giant
  > ladder. It has multiple sections of ladder that are hinged together and
  > can lock into multiple positions. Thus, you can unfold the ladder
  > completely and make a single long ladder. You can have it fold in the
  > middle to make like an a frame step ladder. You can have say three
  > sections on one side and one section on the other so that you can stand it
  > on stairs or a hill. You can have the end sections vertical and the two
  > middle sections horizontal and make a tressel or scaffold.
  >
  > Hope that explains it.
  >
  > -- 
  > Blue skies.
  > Dan Rossi
  > Carnegie Mellon University.
  > E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Tel: (412) 268-9081
  >


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Storm Door

[John Schwery]

The tab might be on backwards, too.  Try different positions and see 
what happens.

earlier, robert moore, wrote:


>Rick I just checked out my screen door and what I found was that the little
>tab that is supposed to hold the door open needs to have the bent portion on
>the top If the bent piece is pointed down my door closes very easy but iif
>it is pointed up it holds just fine. If that does not help you can try to
>bend the tab inward a bit with a plyers.
>I think I would try this before I spent money on a new one. The good news is
>that if you brake or bend any thing trying to bend the tab then replacing it
>with a new one will not be that spendy or difficult.
>Robert
>-Original Message-
>From: 
>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Behalf Of Rick Boggess
>Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:36 PM
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door
>
>What is the piece called that controls how fast/slow a storm door closes?
>In addition, you can push the metal piece back to hold the door open.
>
>My storm door on the patio closes fine at just about the right speed.
>However, I've recently noticed that it slips when I have the piece pushed
>back to hold it open? Is there an adjustment or something I can do to
>prevent the door from closing when I want it to stay open. To the best of
>my knowledge the screw at the end of the piece controls how fast the door
>closes.
>
>Rick Boggess
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 
>6/3/2007 12:47 PM

John


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 6/3/2007 12:47 PM




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Michael Baldwin]

I paid about $100 for my folding 13 foot ladder.  I think the 20 foot goes
for 200 bucks or so.  So about 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of the Little giant.
Comparing my Gorilla ladder, I now recall the brand, to my cousins Little
Giant, they are exactly the same.  take the labels off and you wouldn't be
able to tell the difference.
I weigh about 275, and the Gorilla ladder hasn't broken or bent under my use
and abuse.
Michael
 
 


  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 13:13
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders



Does anyone know what the longest model they make in these type ladders? 
Some one on this list mentioned they could be bought at home depot for a 
third of the cost. Will this person please give us a rough idea of what 
that cost is? 



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question

[Dale Leavens]

There are probably several ways to do it but probably the easiest would be to 
open the cold air return duct at some point near where it enters the
furnace and instal a damper which can close off the duct and opens a large vent 
in the duct closer to the furnace. This will stop air from being drawn off of 
the rooms above and make it up with air from the basement.

You could mix it as you want.

You could close off the return vents in each room and create a large one in the 
basement just before the filter with a damper on it so it can be closed off 
during heating season. In the long run this might be less convenient because 
you will be running around from room to room opening and closing those returns 
and you will probably want them open when your air conditioning is running.

Hope this gives you some ideas. Be sure to keep the air filter in the circuit 
though.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:28 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question


  Hi,

  Could you please explain a little more about returns. In my home each room
  has it's own heat vent and return vent. Some of the larger rooms have two
  of each. How would I get my heating/cooling system to draw air from the
  basement to help cool the first and second floors? Thanks.

  Take care,
  Ed


  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:21 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question

  victor,
  You're right, a motor whether A.C. or D.C. takes just so much
  power to operate it, about 750 watts per horse power or so.
  doesn't matter a dime whether it's A.C. or D.C. Except that the
  power feeding your furnace is A.C. and has to be rectified to
  make it D.C. some efficiency lost there I suppose.

  it can be said that the power consumed by the fan is a very small
  portion of that consumed by the entire furnace, but it still
  costs power to run the motor.

  What you'd accomplish with running the fan all the time depends
  on where the return intake is.
  If, for example, the return intake is in a part of the house that
  tends to remain cooler, then perhaps you'd move cooler air around
  better.

  I had a friend who had a "summer' return intake put into his
  basement. He didn't have air conditioning, but when it was
  summer and he switched the intake to the basement port and just
  ran the fan as needed, the house was much cooler than one would
  expect.

  However, i always wonder about advice from guys in government
  sponsored programs. They're usually just contractors who have
  low bid on the city job, and are probably looking for more work.

  I wouldn't do it without another opinion.

  tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads

[Don]

You guys are welcome too keep posting auto repair  projects and  issues,  right 
here on this list.  Regards  Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 5:02 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads


  Robert,

  I'm not sure how your idea for a blind guy automotive based
  list would fly. 
  I for one really enjoy reading all of the sawdust talk that
  goes on here. I don't understand about 90% of it but I like
  reading about it. Maybe some day I will get brave and trade
  in tubing bender, rivet gun, torque wrench, micrometers,
  dial indicators, and all of the rest of the shit I have in
  my tool -box for some of the wood-working stuff you all talk
  about.
  What do you think guys? sawdust for motor oil, decking a
  house for decking heads and blocks, high pressure induction
  systems for high pressure water systems, souper-charged
  motors for souper glued joints.
  It all sounds like fun to me even if I don't know what the
  whole wood thing is about.

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer

  Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.

  Sun Tzu.


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Don]

Great info here.  I'll have to keep this post.  Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 3:27 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders


  I paid about $100 for my folding 13 foot ladder. I think the 20 foot goes
  for 200 bucks or so. So about 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of the Little giant.
  Comparing my Gorilla ladder, I now recall the brand, to my cousins Little
  Giant, they are exactly the same. take the labels off and you wouldn't be
  able to tell the difference.
  I weigh about 275, and the Gorilla ladder hasn't broken or bent under my use
  and abuse.
  Michael



  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 13:13
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

  Does anyone know what the longest model they make in these type ladders? 
  Some one on this list mentioned they could be bought at home depot for a 
  third of the cost. Will this person please give us a rough idea of what 
  that cost is? 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Edward Przybylek]

I've seen three such ladders.  Home Depot carries the Little Giant and the
Gorrilla.  These two ladders are virtually identical.  The third ladder I
saw of this type was one made by Werner.  You can see the Werner at Lowe's.
The Werner looks a little different than the Little Giant and Gorilla but
it's function is the same.  As I recall, the Werner extended to 22 feet.  I
own the Gorrilla and consider it to be one of my most useful tools.
 
Take care,
Ed
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David & Patricia Ferrin
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 3:19 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders



You know I think there are actually two models probably from different
companies. The gorilla and the little giant if memory serves.
David Ferrin
http://www.jaws-  users.com
- Original Message - 
From: Brice Mijares 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

Does anyone know what the longest model they make in these type ladders? 
Some one on this list mentioned they could be bought at home depot for a 
third of the cost. Will this person please give us a rough idea of what 
that cost is? 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads

[William Stephan]

I don't currently own a vehicle, but I still enjoy reading about maintenance
and other projects from those who do

 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 6:33 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads

 

You guys are welcome too keep posting auto repair projects and issues, right
here on this list. Regards Don
- Original Message - 
From: Larry Stansifer 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 5:02 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads

Robert,

I'm not sure how your idea for a blind guy automotive based
list would fly. 
I for one really enjoy reading all of the sawdust talk that
goes on here. I don't understand about 90% of it but I like
reading about it. Maybe some day I will get brave and trade
in tubing bender, rivet gun, torque wrench, micrometers,
dial indicators, and all of the rest of the shit I have in
my tool -box for some of the wood-working stuff you all talk
about.
What do you think guys? sawdust for motor oil, decking a
house for decking heads and blocks, high pressure induction
systems for high pressure water systems, souper-charged
motors for souper glued joints.
It all sounds like fun to me even if I don't know what the
whole wood thing is about.

Regards

Larry Stansifer

Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.

Sun Tzu.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] router bit in a drill chuck?

[Dale Leavens]

Now I don't usually scare easily but most applications for a router bit in a 
drill press scares me, particularly with quarter inch shaft router bits. There 
is no protection at all should a bit break and the height is just about where 
you don't want it to be.

Except for very large bits mostly they are designed to cut at very high speeds 
and with lateral force not something a drill press is designed for. The table 
would want extending.

Finally there is the risk of getting appendages into the cutter. and dust 
control.

Having said that, I have used flat bottom cutters for boring flat bottomed 
holes on rare occasions and think I might again if ever I use those knock-down 
fittings they use for connecting particle board parts together though a 
forstner bit would work well too. Maybe multiple cuts to remove the bulk of 
material for flush mounting escutcheons then finishing up with a sharp chisel, 
a forstner bit would leave little circles and point holes but a flat bottomed 
router bit would not.

Mostly though the speed and risk of breakage with that lateral pressure and 
straying fingers would scare me.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 1:40 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] router bit in a drill chuck?


  I don't think that the bit would fly away. I am not sure about the cut. 
  There was a drill press attachment that my wife's late uncle had. It was a 
  special shaped device that would clamp on the table. There was a complete 
  set of molding cutters for the drill press. When all put together you could 
  make almost any molding using the drill press. I have been searching for 
  that item for many years. I gave up when I purchased my router and table.
  Now since these molding cutters looked very much like some of my router bits 
  I would suspect that they would work. I think you would need a variable 
  speed press. The one that I have is a 12 speed and I don't know if the top 
  speed would be adequate for some of the router bits. Also You would need a 
  fairly long table and fence system.
  Lenny

  - Original Message - 
  From: "John Schwery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:24 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] router bit in a drill chuck?

  Is it safe to put router bits in drill chucks? Routers use Colletts
  which hold bits more securely, perhaps? If I can get a drill press
  and a Bitmoore milling vise, I was thinking of putting router bits in
  the drill press. So, my question is, is it safe to do this? I
  wouldn't want to be hit by a flying tool bit.

  John

  -- 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/829 - Release Date: 6/2/2007 5:26 
  PM

  To listen to the show archives go to link
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  or
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  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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  List Members At The Following address:
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  just send a blank message to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door

[cheetah]

as you have been told it is a closer but i found out the hard way 
they come in different strengths.
light medium and heavy.
so if you replace it take the old one in and hope it says what weight it is.
i got a cheep one of corse the light one and put it on my door and 
wooosh it didn't do a thing to stop the door from slamming.
so back to the store and got the right one.
jim
At 02:16 PM 6/4/2007, you wrote:

>You are correct about the use of the screw.
>
>The little slider though holds by virtue of the fact that the hole 
>in it is a little larger than the rod it slides on so, when forced 
>it shifts a little and pinches on the rod. If the rod is a little 
>too smooth or a little slippery maybe with a little oil or grease on 
>it the little square washer doo-dad will slip as you have already 
>noticed or if the edges of it get a little warn so they aren't quite 
>sharp enough to bight into the rod a little it won't hold.
>
>The device is called a door closer, Go figure! You can almost 
>certainly buy a replacement at most hardware or building supply 
>stores, I am guessing under ten bucks although I am frequently 
>surprised at how prices climb.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Skype DaleLeavens
>Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>- Original Message -
>From: Rick Boggess
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:36 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Strorm Door
>
>What is the piece called that controls how fast/slow a storm door closes?
>In addition, you can push the metal piece back to hold the door open.
>
>My storm door on the patio closes fine at just about the right speed.
>However, I've recently noticed that it slips when I have the piece pushed
>back to hold it open? Is there an adjustment or something I can do to
>prevent the door from closing when I want it to stay open. To the best of
>my knowledge the screw at the end of the piece controls how fast the door
>closes.
>
>Rick Boggess
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 
>6/3/2007 12:47 PM



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi Mike,
 
I think you might be wrong about the Little Giant and the Gorrilla being
identical.  If memory serves, the Little Giant is 19 feet tall and the
Gorrilla is 18 feet 11 inches.   I'm not sure if those are exactly
the right numbers but I do remember it being a difference of an inch or so.
I think this is the way they get around any patent enfringement and the
like.
 
Take care,
Ed
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 5:27 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders



I paid about $100 for my folding 13 foot ladder. I think the 20 foot goes
for 200 bucks or so. So about 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of the Little giant.
Comparing my Gorilla ladder, I now recall the brand, to my cousins Little
Giant, they are exactly the same. take the labels off and you wouldn't be
able to tell the difference.
I weigh about 275, and the Gorilla ladder hasn't broken or bent under my use
and abuse.
Michael



_ 

From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 13:13
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

Does anyone know what the longest model they make in these type ladders? 
Some one on this list mentioned they could be bought at home depot for a 
third of the cost. Will this person please give us a rough idea of what 
that cost is? 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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[BlindHandyMan] How Is a Revolver Made

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
Anyone tried to make there own Gun?
How is a revolver made?

Background

The term "handgun" refers to any small firearm intended for use with one hand 
only. Currently, the two most important types of handguns are revolvers and
automatic pistols. The key distinction between the two is that the former 
contains a cylindrical magazine (the firearm
compartment
from which cartridges, or bullets, are fed into the barrel) with multiple 
chambers that enable the shooter to fire repeated shots without pausing to
reload.
An automatic (self-loading) pistol feeds cartridges into the barrel from a 
detachable magazine that is inserted through the bottom of the butt (the gun's
handle). This type of pistol utilizes some of the
recoil
force from each cartridge firing to feed the next cartridge into its single 
chamber. As the two varieties differ widely in design and production, this 
article
will concentrate on the revolver.

The earliest firearms ensued from the invention of black powder, a precursor of 
gunpowder developed in China during the ninth century A.D.; among other
things, the Chinese apparently used their invention to propel primitive 
rockets. The recipe and uses for black powder were eventually transmitted to 
Europe
by Mongol conquerors, and it was the Europeans who perfected the substance 
during the fourteenth century. Within one hundred years, the first small arms
were being developed. However, early handguns remained
troublesome
for several centuries. For one thing, very few people could shoot them 
accurately (sighting targets proved easier with the long barrel of a
musket
to serve as a guide). Another problem was that their
firepower
had to be minimal if soldiers were to fire them with one hand. Until the 
mid-eighteenth century, most handguns could hold only one cartridge at a time,
and this had to be loaded through the gun's muzzle (barrel).

The handgun became
vastly
improved in 1835, when Samuel Colt patented the first
workable
revolver, which became known as the cap-and-ball. Although Colt's
handgun
still had to be front-loaded, its revolving cylinder contained five or six 
chambers, and the shooter advanced it automatically by cocking the hammer 
(earlier
models had required shooters to align each chamber and depress the hammer 
separately). Later improvements yielded a cartridge revolver that did not have
to be loaded through the muzzle, better ejection designs, and double-action 
cocking mechanisms.

By the end of the nineteenth century, when handguns incorporating these 
innovations were being mass produced, the revolver had reached its mature form.
It remained the weapon of choice for military personnel until the second decade 
of the twentieth century, when it was replaced by automatic pistols. Although
many predicted that the advent of the automatic model would render the revolver 
obsolete, it has remained popular. Today, revolvers continue to be used
alongside automatic pistols by police officers, members of the armed forces, 
and target shooters throughout the world.

Design

To understand how a revolver is made, it is important to know how each 
subsystem functions within the weapon. A revolver contains four main subsystems:
the Frame Group; the Cylinder, Extractor, and Crane Group; the Barrel and Sight 
Group; and the Trigger, Timing Hand, and Hammer Group.

The Frame Group consists of the main frame, the trigger guard, and the hand 
grip. Its purpose is to provide a strong frame to contain the powerful force
of the cartridge discharge, position the shooter's hand correctly, and insure 
that the trigger functions precisely. Designs vary slightly due to 
manufacturers'
patents, but the operation is basically the same. Some frames have a removable 
sideplate that provides access to the trigger group, while others insert
the trigger group as a separate assembly though the bottom of the frame. All 
modern revolvers utilize a frame design incorporating a solid top
strap
that connects the top of the grip area to the barrel mounting area, reinforcing 
the structural integrity of the frame.

The Cylinder, Extractor, and Crane Group consists of the cylinder itself, the 
shaft upon which it rotates, the extractor, the extractor shaft, a return
spring, and the crane. The cylinder commonly contains six chambers for six 
cartridges of the correct
caliber
arranged in a circle. The rim, or outer edge of the cartridge base, rests upon a
semicircular
ledge formed by the extractor, which contains six small depressions in the 
center. The outside of the cylinder has six corresponding locking grooves. The
cylinder rotates on the cylinder pin, which locks into the frame on one end and 
the crane on the other end. While the inside of the frame supports the
base of the cartridge, the forcing cone on the barrel helps the bullet 
accurately jump the gap between the cylinder face and the barrel.

The Barrel and Sight Group is very important to the accuracy of the weapon. 
Threaded onto the frame, the 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi Dale,
 
Thanks for the explanation and useful suggestions.  A friend of mine once
suggested taking off the metal panel covering the blower compartment of my
furnace and letting it suck cooler air from the basement and circulate it
throughout the house.  The idea was to tape down the safety switch and tape
a furnace filter over the compartment opening.  Sounds like a primative
implementation of one of your ideas.  It might be worth a try if only to see
how well it works.  If it does, it would be worth the trouble of installing
a basement return with a damper.  I'll have to give it some thought.
 
Take care,
Ed
 


  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 5:55 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question



There are probably several ways to do it but probably the easiest would be
to open the cold air return duct at some point near where it enters the
furnace and instal a damper which can close off the duct and opens a large
vent in the duct closer to the furnace. This will stop air from being drawn
off of the rooms above and make it up with air from the basement.

You could mix it as you want.

You could close off the return vents in each room and create a large one in
the basement just before the filter with a damper on it so it can be closed
off during heating season. In the long run this might be less convenient
because you will be running around from room to room opening and closing
those returns and you will probably want them open when your air
conditioning is running.

Hope this gives you some ideas. Be sure to keep the air filter in the
circuit though.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  net
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

- Original Message - 
From: Edward Przybylek 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:28 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question

Hi,

Could you please explain a little more about returns. In my home each room
has it's own heat vent and return vent. Some of the larger rooms have two
of each. How would I get my heating/cooling system to draw air from the
basement to help cool the first and second floors? Thanks.

Take care,
Ed

_ 

From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:21 AM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Cc: victor.gouveia@  rogers.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heating and Air Conditioning Question

victor,
You're right, a motor whether A.C. or D.C. takes just so much
power to operate it, about 750 watts per horse power or so.
doesn't matter a dime whether it's A.C. or D.C. Except that the
power feeding your furnace is A.C. and has to be rectified to
make it D.C. some efficiency lost there I suppose.

it can be said that the power consumed by the fan is a very small
portion of that consumed by the entire furnace, but it still
costs power to run the motor.

What you'd accomplish with running the fan all the time depends
on where the return intake is.
If, for example, the return intake is in a part of the house that
tends to remain cooler, then perhaps you'd move cooler air around
better.

I had a friend who had a "summer' return intake put into his
basement. He didn't have air conditioning, but when it was
summer and he switched the intake to the basement port and just
ran the fan as needed, the house was much cooler than one would
expect.

However, i always wonder about advice from guys in government
sponsored programs. They're usually just contractors who have
low bid on the city job, and are probably looking for more work.

I wouldn't do it without another opinion.

tom

Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] How Is a Revolver Made

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi Ray,
 
Back in high school I attempted making a zip gun.  It consisted of an
aluminum tube that snuggly housed a 22 caliber bullet and a handle made of
wood.  I was working on the trigger/hammer mechanism when the shop teacher
figured out what the final result was to be.  A very stern lecture and the
threat of being thrown out of shop class for the remainder of the year
convinced me it was not the time nor the place to attempt the project.  He
did, however, admit that the design was looking pretty good.  Who knows.
Someday, with a little free time, it might be worth revisiting the project.
 
Take care,
Ed
 


  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Boyce, Ray
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:05 PM
To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How Is a Revolver Made



Hi All
Anyone tried to make there own Gun?
How is a revolver made?

Background

The term "handgun" refers to any small firearm intended for use with one
hand only. Currently, the two most important types of handguns are revolvers
and
automatic pistols. The key distinction between the two is that the former
contains a cylindrical magazine (the firearm
compartment
from which cartridges, or bullets, are fed into the barrel) with multiple
chambers that enable the shooter to fire repeated shots without pausing to
reload.
An automatic (self-loading) pistol feeds cartridges into the barrel from a
detachable magazine that is inserted through the bottom of the butt (the
gun's
handle). This type of pistol utilizes some of the
recoil
force from each cartridge firing to feed the next cartridge into its single
chamber. As the two varieties differ widely in design and production, this
article
will concentrate on the revolver.

The earliest firearms ensued from the invention of black powder, a precursor
of gunpowder developed in China during the ninth century A.D.; among other
things, the Chinese apparently used their invention to propel primitive
rockets. The recipe and uses for black powder were eventually transmitted to
Europe
by Mongol conquerors, and it was the Europeans who perfected the substance
during the fourteenth century. Within one hundred years, the first small
arms
were being developed. However, early handguns remained
troublesome
for several centuries. For one thing, very few people could shoot them
accurately (sighting targets proved easier with the long barrel of a
musket
to serve as a guide). Another problem was that their
firepower
had to be minimal if soldiers were to fire them with one hand. Until the
mid-eighteenth century, most handguns could hold only one cartridge at a
time,
and this had to be loaded through the gun's muzzle (barrel).

The handgun became
vastly
improved in 1835, when Samuel Colt patented the first
workable
revolver, which became known as the cap-and-ball. Although Colt's
handgun
still had to be front-loaded, its revolving cylinder contained five or six
chambers, and the shooter advanced it automatically by cocking the hammer
(earlier
models had required shooters to align each chamber and depress the hammer
separately). Later improvements yielded a cartridge revolver that did not
have
to be loaded through the muzzle, better ejection designs, and double-action
cocking mechanisms.

By the end of the nineteenth century, when handguns incorporating these
innovations were being mass produced, the revolver had reached its mature
form.
It remained the weapon of choice for military personnel until the second
decade of the twentieth century, when it was replaced by automatic pistols.
Although
many predicted that the advent of the automatic model would render the
revolver obsolete, it has remained popular. Today, revolvers continue to be
used
alongside automatic pistols by police officers, members of the armed forces,
and target shooters throughout the world.

Design

To understand how a revolver is made, it is important to know how each
subsystem functions within the weapon. A revolver contains four main
subsystems:
the Frame Group; the Cylinder, Extractor, and Crane Group; the Barrel and
Sight Group; and the Trigger, Timing Hand, and Hammer Group.

The Frame Group consists of the main frame, the trigger guard, and the hand
grip. Its purpose is to provide a strong frame to contain the powerful force
of the cartridge discharge, position the shooter's hand correctly, and
insure that the trigger functions precisely. Designs vary slightly due to
manufacturers'
patents, but the operation is basically the same. Some frames have a
removable sideplate that provides access to the trigger group, while others
insert
the trigger group as a separate assembly though the bottom of the frame. All
modern revolvers utilize a frame design incorporating a solid top
strap
that connects the top of the grip area to the barrel mounting area,
reinforcing the structural integrity of the frame.

The Cylinder, Extractor, and Crane Group consists of the cylinder itself,
the shaft upon which it