Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Scott Howell]

Hey Bill, yep, got the switch that actually controls a light that is  
on the wall of all crazy things.  Not sure why the previous owner did  
this, but really does nothing for providing light and well I have the  
extra fan and light kit.  I thought about the external wiring deal,  
but that didn't go over very well and yes, you are correct in that  
there is a floor above this room.  One thing that hit me as I retired  
for the day is that there is a main duct that runs perpendicular to  
the joists and it is very possible I can fish down to the duct and  
come up to where I need the box to be located.  So not hopeless, but  
challenging. Once it is all done, it will have been worth it.
On Aug 7, 2009, at 10:22 PM, Bill Gallik wrote:

> Correct me if I am wrong, but it sounds as if you are trying to add a
> fixture in a ceiling that has a floor for another room above it?
>
> By the way, as for the dust, the vacuum attachment is good but to make
> things even more palatable to the little lady try laying a plastic  
> tarp
> under the work area. It won't catch everything, but it does minimize  
> some
> dust while showing the Mrs. that you are trying your best to  
> eliminate the
> problem.
>
> One option you might consider is to purchase the wiring that is  
> designed to
> be installed on the outside of the wall/ceiling. It's supposedly quite
> decorative and will get rid of the problem of your fishing problem.  
> In this
> particular case, "outside" means where it will show as opposed to  
> being
> hidden within the wall.
>
> As for what you hit, that would concern me. It may have been a nail,  
> but if
> there are support brackets in your joists that would be of concern  
> since you
> really have no way of knowing where on the bracket it's been  
> compromised.
>
> By the way, is there a box already installed where you intend to  
> place the
> switches. Also, keep in mind that you might like to have separate  
> switches;
> one for the fan and one for the lights. This isn't very difficult  
> because
> you can buy grounded 14-3 Romax where you'll have a white, red and  
> black
> wire (plus the ground wire) all encased in a nicely round cable-like
> cable/wire. And if you have only a "single-gang" box you can buy one  
> of
> those double switches (you can get these in fan/light rotary  
> controls as
> well).
> ---*---*---*---*---*---*---
> Holland's Person, Bill
> E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
> - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff)
> - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast
> - An entire day commitment for a chicken.
> - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig
>
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Scott Howell]

Yeah, thanks for the tips and actually I've got a proper fan box.   
This one is on a bar that twists so you can slap a wrench on it and  
turn tilll it puts enough pressure to hold and I mean hold so you  
could swing on it. I used one of these in my town house, but there the  
joists ran the way I wanted. In any event your right that fishing  
across will be amazingly difficult, but I have one thing I want to try  
before I give up completely. There is a duct that runs perpendicular  
to the joists, so I might be able to work down to it and over. If not,  
I'm just going to make the necessary holes and patch. My wife is not a  
fan of painting, but tough, once it's done, she'll accept and like the  
results and will paint without much fuss. grin.
This is a good experience actually cause I have a hallway that has no  
light at all and I can't figure out how this came to be. This hall  
area has two stairwells and how anyone could not have a light in that  
area is beyond me. So, we're going to put one  in. The good thing is I  
have power behind a blank plate, so I suspect there could have been a  
light and it was removed for some other reason I can't quite fathom.  
There's nothing like coming behind someone and trying to figure out  
what they were doing.
On Aug 7, 2009, at 10:49 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> Unfortunately there is no easy fix when retro fitting electrical  
> lines. I've seen some different long drill bits like you have but I  
> don't know the diameter and that will be important since it has to  
> be larger than the 14 gauge you'll need to be running.
>
> One bit of good luck for you cutting the hole next to a joist. code  
> and good sense require you to mount the box either on a joist or to  
> a stud running crossways to the joist. You can't use a plastic box  
> with the wings that pop out behind drywall. At least not if you want  
> to hang a fan on it.
>
> Tell Mrs. my wife complained about the dust too but I think the best  
> idea is to use a hole saw big enough that you can fit your hand  
> through the hole. With a hole saw you can save the cut out, then  
> when you're ready to close up, cut some thin strips of plywood or  
> you can get larger if you have scrap. Cut the wood a couple inches  
> longer than the hole is round. Push the wood into the hole and  
> center it over the opening. Run a drywall screw through the drywall  
> and into each end of the wood. Now you can put a couple screws  
> through the cut out and screw it to the wood behind the opening. A  
> little tip to make this easier is to start a screw in the center.  
> This will come back out but it gives you a handle to hold the wood  
> while you drive the screws in.
>
> I just did this project during the spring. With any luck your hands  
> are smaller than mine and you won't have to use a 4 inch hole saw  
> like I did. Fishing the tape across gets pretty impossible after 2  
> joists because you can't manipulate it after that point. The only  
> simple fix would be to try picking up power on a wall that runs  
> perpendicular to the joists so you could run up through the plates  
> at the top and into the bay where the fan will mount.
>
> The way it is, you might be able to cut a hole between every other  
> joist and see if you can feed the wire through. I stripped the wire  
> back so I could bend a hook in the bear wire and cut off the black  
> and white even with the insulation. That's so I didn't end up with a  
> big knot to try pulling through each hole. The hook is in case I was  
> only close. I had a wire coat hanger I could catch the other hook  
> with and show the way.
>
> When you get the wire run, you can use some joint compound to seal  
> the opening. There are all kinds of "textured" applicators. There  
> are rollers, sponges and things I probably don't even know about  
> now. I hate that kind of texture but it was popular for a while. I  
> had to make those repairs when I had younger kids. Somehow  
> "accidents" kept happening. "Daddy I was picking up the ball bat and  
> it went through the ceiling." Not the hardest repair you'll ever do,  
> especially when you finish running the wire.
> - Original Message -
> From: Scott Howell
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 8:32 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part
>
> All,
>
> I have a minor problem, ok not a problem so much as I'm just trying
> to find an easy way to do something that would be simple if I'd just
> stop trying to make life difficult.
> I cut a hole in the ceiling for the fan box and I should point out
> there is no fan or light etc. so a new install from scratch. I also
> have the added problem of fishing wire from where the switch is to the
> center of the room and of course the joists have the absolute nerve to
> be running perpendicular to the direction I need to go; damn builders
> didn't bother to consult with me before putting the place toget

RE: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Tom Vos]

Scott,
Would it be possible to use a thin rodd -- smaller than the drill bit you
used, to poke a wire or string through the series of holes you drilled?
If you can get the string through, or a small wire, you could then pull the
Romex through.
Also, if you have to patch the ceiling, you can buy an aerosole can of
popcorn ceiling patch.  You can buy it in fine, medium or coarse.
But let me warn you, if you do it, cover everything, including walls for
yards around the area you spray.
It comes out of the can like a giant fart, and you'll collect some of the
stuff on yourself too.
Blessings,
Tom

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Scott Howell
  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 7:33 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part


All,

  I have a minor problem, ok not a problem so much as I'm just trying
  to find an easy way to do something that would be simple if I'd just
  stop trying to make life difficult.
  I cut a hole in the ceiling for the fan box and I should point out
  there is no fan or light etc. so a new install from scratch. I also
  have the added problem of fishing wire from where the switch is to the
  center of the room and of course the joists have the absolute nerve to
  be running perpendicular to the direction I need to go; damn builders
  didn't bother to consult with me before putting the place together,
  but ah well. Ok, so, yeah I could knock a hole every other joist and
  bang a hole in each joist and I only need a hole large enough to fit
  my hand in so I can fish the wire. Now because I'm such a clever
  fool, I wasted my money and got one of those four foot rods with the
  bit on the end, meant for drilling hole. Well first it seemed like a
  fine idea, but controlling that sucker wasn't easy and I'm fairly sure
  I piloted the bit under the duct that had the nerve to be in my way,
  but then I hit something that took the drill out of my hands and smash
  the hell out of my forearm. Now not to be out done by the drill, I
  tried again and got beat up by the drill again, but since I lack the
  good sense to stop, I did punch through to the other side, but I have
  no idea where in hell I ended up. So far my wife hasn't found any
  holes in the bedrooms upstairs and that must mean I made holes
  generally in the right direction. However, because I do lack common
  sense, I didn't realize that trying to pilot the fish tape through the
  holes I made will be damn near impossible. So, I think the holes are
  generally in line with each other, but has anyone any tips on driving
  a fish tape um, well, ahuh blindly through the joists? I'm trying so
  hard to avoid making anymore holes and trying to justify the cost of
  the bit/rod deal. I mean it'll be useful in driving up the wall into
  the whatever it's called up there, but seems I'd have to run the fish
  tape up that way and not through the hole where the fan box will go.
  Of course luck would have it that the hole I made is right against
  the beam and I'm hoping it won't cause me a lot of problems.
  Of course the real hoot to all this is if I end up making holes, I got
  one of those ceilings with the popcorn stuff on it. Well it's more
  like thick, sharp, knuckle-slashing popcorn stuff. So, patching the
  holes and finding that stuff will be interesting, but I still have the
  plug I cut out of the ceiling, so matching it shouldn't be to bad and
  it'll be easier in the end to patch that then if it were all smooth.
  See I'm trying to avoid making the lovely spouse unhappy with
  additional destruction. She's not overly happy with the dust, but she
  understands dust is a way of life in the construction business and
  well I tried taping the shop vac to the drill and that sort of
  worked. :) So, a little less dust. Well hey, any thoughts appreciated.


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Bill Gallik]

Well God Bless you Scott and best of luck.  You're a man after my own heart
because when I did something similar a buddy suggested the
"outside-the-wall" wiring and I rejected that idea myself.  My project was
not nearly so challenging because I was adding a completely new ceiling
fixture in a bedroom that had the (very) open attic just above it.  And the
switch was on a wall where the back of the wall was in the closet so I could
cut a 4" hole (via hole saw) from the closet side and no ugly results in the
main bedroom.
---*---*---*---*---*---*---
Holland's Person, Bill
E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
- Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff)
- Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast
- An entire day commitment for a chicken.
- A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig
- Original Message - 
From: "Scott Howell" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 4:35 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part


Hey Bill, yep, got the switch that actually controls a light that is
on the wall of all crazy things.  Not sure why the previous owner did
this, but really does nothing for providing light and well I have the
extra fan and light kit.  I thought about the external wiring deal,
but that didn't go over very well and yes, you are correct in that
there is a floor above this room.  One thing that hit me as I retired
for the day is that there is a main duct that runs perpendicular to
the joists and it is very possible I can fish down to the duct and
come up to where I need the box to be located.  So not hopeless, but
challenging. Once it is all done, it will have been worth it.
On Aug 7, 2009, at 10:22 PM, Bill Gallik wrote:

> Correct me if I am wrong, but it sounds as if you are trying to add a
> fixture in a ceiling that has a floor for another room above it?
>
> By the way, as for the dust, the vacuum attachment is good but to make
> things even more palatable to the little lady try laying a plastic
> tarp
> under the work area. It won't catch everything, but it does minimize
> some
> dust while showing the Mrs. that you are trying your best to
> eliminate the
> problem.
>
> One option you might consider is to purchase the wiring that is
> designed to
> be installed on the outside of the wall/ceiling. It's supposedly quite
> decorative and will get rid of the problem of your fishing problem.
> In this
> particular case, "outside" means where it will show as opposed to
> being
> hidden within the wall.
>
> As for what you hit, that would concern me. It may have been a nail,
> but if
> there are support brackets in your joists that would be of concern
> since you
> really have no way of knowing where on the bracket it's been
> compromised.
>
> By the way, is there a box already installed where you intend to
> place the
> switches. Also, keep in mind that you might like to have separate
> switches;
> one for the fan and one for the lights. This isn't very difficult
> because
> you can buy grounded 14-3 Romax where you'll have a white, red and
> black
> wire (plus the ground wire) all encased in a nicely round cable-like
> cable/wire. And if you have only a "single-gang" box you can buy one
> of
> those double switches (you can get these in fan/light rotary
> controls as
> well).
> ---*---*---*---*---*---*---
> Holland's Person, Bill
> E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
> - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff)
> - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast
> - An entire day commitment for a chicken.
> - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Scott Howell]

Hey Tom, thanks that is really helpful.  I don't know about the string  
etc. I have a fish tape, which would be a little firmer, but I've got  
a few ideas to try before I start busting more holes. The good news is  
you provided the info on the popcorn material that will help with  
patching etc. This will work, I have more confidence in the end product.

On Aug 8, 2009, at 8:10 AM, Tom Vos wrote:

> Scott,
> Would it be possible to use a thin rodd -- smaller than the drill  
> bit you
> used, to poke a wire or string through the series of holes you  
> drilled?
> If you can get the string through, or a small wire, you could then  
> pull the
> Romex through.
> Also, if you have to patch the ceiling, you can buy an aerosole can of
> popcorn ceiling patch. You can buy it in fine, medium or coarse.
> But let me warn you, if you do it, cover everything, including walls  
> for
> yards around the area you spray.
> It comes out of the can like a giant fart, and you'll collect some  
> of the
> stuff on yourself too.
> Blessings,
> Tom
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Scott Howell
> Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 7:33 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part
>
> All,
>
> I have a minor problem, ok not a problem so much as I'm just trying
> to find an easy way to do something that would be simple if I'd just
> stop trying to make life difficult.
> I cut a hole in the ceiling for the fan box and I should point out
> there is no fan or light etc. so a new install from scratch. I also
> have the added problem of fishing wire from where the switch is to the
> center of the room and of course the joists have the absolute nerve to
> be running perpendicular to the direction I need to go; damn builders
> didn't bother to consult with me before putting the place together,
> but ah well. Ok, so, yeah I could knock a hole every other joist and
> bang a hole in each joist and I only need a hole large enough to fit
> my hand in so I can fish the wire. Now because I'm such a clever
> fool, I wasted my money and got one of those four foot rods with the
> bit on the end, meant for drilling hole. Well first it seemed like a
> fine idea, but controlling that sucker wasn't easy and I'm fairly sure
> I piloted the bit under the duct that had the nerve to be in my way,
> but then I hit something that took the drill out of my hands and smash
> the hell out of my forearm. Now not to be out done by the drill, I
> tried again and got beat up by the drill again, but since I lack the
> good sense to stop, I did punch through to the other side, but I have
> no idea where in hell I ended up. So far my wife hasn't found any
> holes in the bedrooms upstairs and that must mean I made holes
> generally in the right direction. However, because I do lack common
> sense, I didn't realize that trying to pilot the fish tape through the
> holes I made will be damn near impossible. So, I think the holes are
> generally in line with each other, but has anyone any tips on driving
> a fish tape um, well, ahuh blindly through the joists? I'm trying so
> hard to avoid making anymore holes and trying to justify the cost of
> the bit/rod deal. I mean it'll be useful in driving up the wall into
> the whatever it's called up there, but seems I'd have to run the fish
> tape up that way and not through the hole where the fan box will go.
> Of course luck would have it that the hole I made is right against
> the beam and I'm hoping it won't cause me a lot of problems.
> Of course the real hoot to all this is if I end up making holes, I got
> one of those ceilings with the popcorn stuff on it. Well it's more
> like thick, sharp, knuckle-slashing popcorn stuff. So, patching the
> holes and finding that stuff will be interesting, but I still have the
> plug I cut out of the ceiling, so matching it shouldn't be to bad and
> it'll be easier in the end to patch that then if it were all smooth.
> See I'm trying to avoid making the lovely spouse unhappy with
> additional destruction. She's not overly happy with the dust, but she
> understands dust is a way of life in the construction business and
> well I tried taping the shop vac to the drill and that sort of
> worked. :) So, a little less dust. Well hey, any thoughts appreciated.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Scott Howell]

Yeah, I like the neat clean look and my wife would not stand for it.  
She'd agree if I pushed the point, but that agreement would be a  
constant reminder for ever after about "how it just doesn't look  
right". I'd of course agree in the end and I'd end up doing the work  
after all.

On Aug 8, 2009, at 7:35 AM, Bill Gallik wrote:

> Well God Bless you Scott and best of luck. You're a man after my own  
> heart
> because when I did something similar a buddy suggested the
> "outside-the-wall" wiring and I rejected that idea myself. My  
> project was
> not nearly so challenging because I was adding a completely new  
> ceiling
> fixture in a bedroom that had the (very) open attic just above it.  
> And the
> switch was on a wall where the back of the wall was in the closet so  
> I could
> cut a 4" hole (via hole saw) from the closet side and no ugly  
> results in the
> main bedroom.
> ---*---*---*---*---*---*---
> Holland's Person, Bill
> E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
> - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff)
> - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast
> - An entire day commitment for a chicken.
> - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig
> - Original Message -
> From: "Scott Howell" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 4:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part
>
> Hey Bill, yep, got the switch that actually controls a light that is
> on the wall of all crazy things. Not sure why the previous owner did
> this, but really does nothing for providing light and well I have the
> extra fan and light kit. I thought about the external wiring deal,
> but that didn't go over very well and yes, you are correct in that
> there is a floor above this room. One thing that hit me as I retired
> for the day is that there is a main duct that runs perpendicular to
> the joists and it is very possible I can fish down to the duct and
> come up to where I need the box to be located. So not hopeless, but
> challenging. Once it is all done, it will have been worth it.
> On Aug 7, 2009, at 10:22 PM, Bill Gallik wrote:
>
> > Correct me if I am wrong, but it sounds as if you are trying to  
> add a
> > fixture in a ceiling that has a floor for another room above it?
> >
> > By the way, as for the dust, the vacuum attachment is good but to  
> make
> > things even more palatable to the little lady try laying a plastic
> > tarp
> > under the work area. It won't catch everything, but it does minimize
> > some
> > dust while showing the Mrs. that you are trying your best to
> > eliminate the
> > problem.
> >
> > One option you might consider is to purchase the wiring that is
> > designed to
> > be installed on the outside of the wall/ceiling. It's supposedly  
> quite
> > decorative and will get rid of the problem of your fishing problem.
> > In this
> > particular case, "outside" means where it will show as opposed to
> > being
> > hidden within the wall.
> >
> > As for what you hit, that would concern me. It may have been a nail,
> > but if
> > there are support brackets in your joists that would be of concern
> > since you
> > really have no way of knowing where on the bracket it's been
> > compromised.
> >
> > By the way, is there a box already installed where you intend to
> > place the
> > switches. Also, keep in mind that you might like to have separate
> > switches;
> > one for the fan and one for the lights. This isn't very difficult
> > because
> > you can buy grounded 14-3 Romax where you'll have a white, red and
> > black
> > wire (plus the ground wire) all encased in a nicely round cable-like
> > cable/wire. And if you have only a "single-gang" box you can buy one
> > of
> > those double switches (you can get these in fan/light rotary
> > controls as
> > well).
> > ---*---*---*---*---*---*---
> > Holland's Person, Bill
> > E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
> > - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff)
> > - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast
> > - An entire day commitment for a chicken.
> > - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Brice]

Did you happen to find any wires after punching your hole?  We added a 
ceiling fan a fews years back and found some live wires, so we tapped into 
them and added a remote control to operate both fan and lights.  Sure did 
beat trying to fish wires to the wall where we would have to have added 
another box, and from there fish down that wall to a bathroom to tie in to 
the bathroom for juice.  We mounted the remote control on the side of the 
mantel 


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The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi RJ,

 

Does anyone already make these aluminum extensions or are they something I
need to fabricate.  If it's something I need to make up, could you give me a
bit more detail about what you have in mind.  How would I attach the
aluminum extensions to the existing siding?  Thanks.

 

Take care,

Ed

 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of RJ
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 10:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

 

  

There is a simple way to do this if you don't want to drop the lock. Add a
piece of alumiun extension to the lock and snap the lip over the extension.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Edward Przybylek 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com   
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 14:48
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

Hi Spiro,

I was hoping to build an extension out of nylon and then glue it in place.
I never once thought that gluing the nylon would present such a problem. I
still like my idea and I'm currently looking into other materials and their
gluing properties.

Take care,

Ed Przybylek

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]
On Behalf Of Spiro
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 3:33 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

is it too far out to suggest that you form a lip/lock shape extension the 
size of the gap?
Maybe out of something like plumbers epoxy?
you can work with that stuff, it will be the intended locking shape, as 
well as the shape of the gap. Once it hardens, you can paint it the right 
color.
Before it hardens you can stick a piece of pecs through it to the wall at 
each end. Use those as stainless screw holes that you can insert just 
before final hardening to take whatever shape you need. Or, you can drill 
the hole there and squeeze some construction cement into it.
Maybe?

On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Edward Przybylek wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
> That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the
> piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up
> enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no
> longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each
piece
> of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached.
> This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide
and
> 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to
> have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm
trying
> to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the
> problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto.
I'm
> sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm
> trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a
> glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing
> siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but
> there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or
> two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct
> tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem
> a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the
> professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal.
>
>
>
> Take care,
>
> Ed Przybylek
>
>
>
>
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 

[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 
 ]
> On Behalf Of NLG
> Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:34 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 


> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
>
>
>
>
>
> What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and
there
> isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a
> unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a
fraction
> of an inch, and then rezip the siding.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Edward Przybylek
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 


> Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:02 PM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look
> like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better
> solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still
> prove helpful. Thanks.
>
> Take care,
>
> Ed
>
> From: blindhandyman

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

[Philip Theron]

Hi have you thought of using a solvent like acetone [I don't know if that is 
strong enough] in that way you would basically weld it together, I know that a 
person can do that with certain types of plastic, otherwise simply sow it 
together with thin nylon thread.  Philip Theron
Piano tuner
Piano Music House
Tel.:  [021] 948 6995
Cell:  [083] 635 6349
Fax:  [021] 949 8650
Email:  phi...@isales.co.za
www.pianomusichouse.co.za 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 9:12 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon


Hi Dale,

  What I'm trying to do is extend the latching part of a piece of siding to
  give the piece of siding above it a little more lip to grip onto. I decided
  to build the extension from nylon because I figured nylon would hold up in a
  variety of weather and had reasonable strength for the job. The problem I'm
  having is that I can't find a glue that will bond nylon to itself. Two
  pieces of nylon need to be glued together to build the extension and the
  extension then needs to be bonded to the siding.

  The first thing I looked at was moving some of the siding up or down to take
  up the slack in the one piece. Unfortunately. Two or three pieces below and
  two or three pieces above would need to be moved to accomplish the task. As
  I said in an earlier note, moving that much siding is far beyond my talents
  and that's why I'm trying to build some sort of clip.

  As far as silicone, I don't think it's practical in this situation. In one
  spot, the existing lip needs to be extended about a quarter of an inch. I
  think trying to use silicone for the purpose would just create a real mess.
  Your idea, though, does give me a thought. I'm going to try bonding a piece
  of nylon to a piece of vinyl siding with silicone. If it works, my design
  can be modified so that I can solve the problem by sticking a piece of nylon
  to the siding and eliminate the need for bonding nylon to itself. Worth a
  shot.

  There is no particular reason to pursue a solution using nylon other than
  I've invested a chunk of change in the material and I'd like to use it if I
  can. As I said in an earlier post, I am looking into other materials and
  their gluing characteristics.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 4:55 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  I haven't been following the nylon glue issue so I don't understand what
  nylon has to do with this, the siding will be vinyl or aluminum won't it?

  Might one solution be a strip of something, maybe thin aluminum or shaped
  thin hardwood sized and formed to fit under the catch and over the lip of
  the offending piece?

  The siding is usually loosely nailed so it can expand and contract with
  changing temperature. Might it be possible to lower the bottom piece by
  sliding it down a touch and raise the upper piece a touch and engage the
  channels that way?

  Finally, I am a real fan of silicone calking as an adhesive. Might you cut a
  really small hole in the tip of a tube of silicone calking, get it up under
  the edge of the upper piece and apply a dab or two at intervals. If you hold
  the lower edge down a bit with a hook then press the bottom hard against the
  piece below and allow the hooked edge to rise again might you be able to get
  a bit of goo between the lip and the hook above? Pick a calm day so it has a
  chance to bond before the wind begins pulling on it.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:34 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  Hi,

  That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the
  piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up
  enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no
  longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each piece
  of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached.
  This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide and
  30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to
  have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm trying
  to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the
  problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto. I'm
  sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm
  trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a
  glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing
  siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but
  there's not enough room an

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

[Dale Leavens]

Why not just a strip pushed up under the flange of the lower piece then snapped 
in under the bottom lip of the latching upper piece? You could form a series of 
clips for the purpose as well.

They probably sell strips of material you could modify, the starter strip at 
the bottom of the wall usually would screw or nail to the wall to catch the lip 
of the bottom piece but perhaps it could be cut to fit under the catch of the 
previous piece rather than nail to the wall.





  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 12:03 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon


Hi RJ,

  Does anyone already make these aluminum extensions or are they something I
  need to fabricate. If it's something I need to make up, could you give me a
  bit more detail about what you have in mind. How would I attach the
  aluminum extensions to the existing siding? Thanks.

  Take care,

  Ed

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of RJ
  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 10:38 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  There is a simple way to do this if you don't want to drop the lock. Add a
  piece of alumiun extension to the lock and snap the lip over the extension.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 14:48
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  Hi Spiro,

  I was hoping to build an extension out of nylon and then glue it in place.
  I never once thought that gluing the nylon would present such a problem. I
  still like my idea and I'm currently looking into other materials and their
  gluing properties.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]
  On Behalf Of Spiro
  Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 3:33 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  is it too far out to suggest that you form a lip/lock shape extension the 
  size of the gap?
  Maybe out of something like plumbers epoxy?
  you can work with that stuff, it will be the intended locking shape, as 
  well as the shape of the gap. Once it hardens, you can paint it the right 
  color.
  Before it hardens you can stick a piece of pecs through it to the wall at 
  each end. Use those as stainless screw holes that you can insert just 
  before final hardening to take whatever shape you need. Or, you can drill 
  the hole there and squeeze some construction cement into it.
  Maybe?

  On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Edward Przybylek wrote:

  > Hi,
  >
  >
  >
  > That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the
  > piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up
  > enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no
  > longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each
  piece
  > of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached.
  > This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide
  and
  > 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to
  > have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm
  trying
  > to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the
  > problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto.
  I'm
  > sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm
  > trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a
  > glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing
  > siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but
  > there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or
  > two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct
  > tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem
  > a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the
  > professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal.
  >
  >
  >
  > Take care,
  >
  > Ed Przybylek
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   
  
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   
   ]
  > On Behalf Of NLG
  > Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:34 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  

  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > What exactly is wrong with your siding? 

[BlindHandyMan] idears for makeing a spinning top pleas

[carl]

i'm thinking of makeing a frinds suna spinning top but i doan't kno whair to 
start 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

[RJ]

You got it. Edward, I have fixed some siding over the years doing this exact 
thing.  The upper siding hold the piece in place and the lock keeps the strip 
from coming out. For the nost you will need is about a quarter inch extension.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 13:05
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon


Why not just a strip pushed up under the flange of the lower piece then 
snapped in under the bottom lip of the latching upper piece? You could form a 
series of clips for the purpose as well.

  They probably sell strips of material you could modify, the starter strip at 
the bottom of the wall usually would screw or nail to the wall to catch the lip 
of the bottom piece but perhaps it could be cut to fit under the catch of the 
previous piece rather than nail to the wall.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 12:03 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  Hi RJ,

  Does anyone already make these aluminum extensions or are they something I
  need to fabricate. If it's something I need to make up, could you give me a
  bit more detail about what you have in mind. How would I attach the
  aluminum extensions to the existing siding? Thanks.

  Take care,

  Ed

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of RJ
  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 10:38 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  There is a simple way to do this if you don't want to drop the lock. Add a
  piece of alumiun extension to the lock and snap the lip over the extension.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 14:48
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  Hi Spiro,

  I was hoping to build an extension out of nylon and then glue it in place.
  I never once thought that gluing the nylon would present such a problem. I
  still like my idea and I'm currently looking into other materials and their
  gluing properties.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]
  On Behalf Of Spiro
  Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 3:33 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  is it too far out to suggest that you form a lip/lock shape extension the 
  size of the gap?
  Maybe out of something like plumbers epoxy?
  you can work with that stuff, it will be the intended locking shape, as 
  well as the shape of the gap. Once it hardens, you can paint it the right 
  color.
  Before it hardens you can stick a piece of pecs through it to the wall at 
  each end. Use those as stainless screw holes that you can insert just 
  before final hardening to take whatever shape you need. Or, you can drill 
  the hole there and squeeze some construction cement into it.
  Maybe?

  On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Edward Przybylek wrote:

  > Hi,
  >
  >
  >
  > That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the
  > piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up
  > enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no
  > longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each
  piece
  > of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached.
  > This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide
  and
  > 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to
  > have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm
  trying
  > to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the
  > problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto.
  I'm
  > sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm
  > trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a
  > glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing
  > siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but
  > there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or
  > two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct
  > tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem
  > a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the
  > professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal.
  >
  >
  >
  > Take care,
  >
  > Ed Przybylek
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   
  
  [mailto:bli

[BlindHandyMan] a question about other lists

[carl]

is their a list is their a list for craft's?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Thermostat Questions?

[Claudia]

Hi,

What would cause this problem?

It's really hot outside today, but I didn't want my air to run while we were 
out; I set it at 80, and the indoor temperature was at 76, but when we 
arrived home, the thermostat was running?

Normally, the theory is that it's only supposed to run, once the indoor temp 
hits the thermostat temperature or higher, right?
So, what is our problem here?


Claudia

Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com

Re: [BlindHandyMan] idears for makeing a spinning top pleas

[Terry Klarich]

On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 18:27:12 +0100you write:
>
>i'm thinking of makeing a frinds suna spinning top but i doan't kno whair to 
>start 


I've made several of them on my lathe over the years.  A drill press can be 
used as well.

Get a length of dowel rod.  Drill a hole in a block of wood glew a piece of the 
dowel in the hole.  Leave about 3" sticking out.
Chuck the piece in a drill press or on a lathe.  Use what ever tools you have 
to shape the wood.  A launcher can be made with a
piece of wood with a hole on one end.  Stick the dowel through the hole, wrap 
string around the dowel by twisting the top.  Hold
the launcher in one hand and pull on the string with the other.  A helocopter 
can be made this way as well.  My Daughters had great
fun with simple toys like that.  They sure grow up fast.  Now, I'm dealing with 
driving and boy friends.  Where's my shotgun
anyway?  :)

Terry

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Thermostat Questions?

[Dale Leavens]

So Claudia, what temperature was it when you got home? Could it have got up to 
80 or above? Might the air conditioner been working to keep the indoor 
temperature down to 80?

Imagine! 80! I don't think it has hit 80 here this year outdoors more than 
three or four times all summer. I am developing webbed feet. Might be helpful 
to keep me up in the snow this winter.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Claudia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 5:08 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Thermostat Questions?


Hi,

  What would cause this problem?

  It's really hot outside today, but I didn't want my air to run while we were 
  out; I set it at 80, and the indoor temperature was at 76, but when we 
  arrived home, the thermostat was running?

  Normally, the theory is that it's only supposed to run, once the indoor temp 
  hits the thermostat temperature or higher, right?
  So, what is our problem here?

  Claudia

  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
  makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

[Shane Hecker]

Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from 
talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat says 
the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine started 
saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced yet. And 
it still works.

Shane 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Scott Howell]

No sir, unfortunately not.  SO, many hours later, a great deal of  
cursing, and a lot of rewiring of the switch I got all wrong , I  
finally now have one ceiling fan installed, a double switch  
controlling the light on the fan and the light that is on the wall,  
and several holes to patch.  Despite my best efforts, I was forced to  
do some unconventional things to get wires going where I wanted and  
that included making a larger hole in the switch box in order to get  
the blasted wire into the switch box.  Well hey, all the holes shall  
be filled and all will be right with the world.  THis is a good  
experiment for the next project when we add a light to the hall area  
that doesn't have one.
Thanks all for the suggestions and tips.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

[Scott Howell]

Those batteries seem to last for years and years, but after two or  
three years, they might need replacing.  I can't recall when I  
replaced mine to be honest. grin
On Aug 8, 2009, at 7:27 PM, Shane Hecker wrote:

> Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from
> talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat  
> says
> the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine  
> started
> saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced  
> yet. And
> it still works.
>
> Shane
>
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

[Shane Hecker]

Just curious, is there a way to reset that so it doesn't keep saying it's low 
when it's likely not? Also, it says something to the effect of "your system has 
run the recommended number of hours before requiring service." How do you reset 
that?

Shane

  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:58 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats


Those batteries seem to last for years and years, but after two or 
  three years, they might need replacing. I can't recall when I 
  replaced mine to be honest. grin
  On Aug 8, 2009, at 7:27 PM, Shane Hecker wrote:

  > Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from
  > talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat 
  > says
  > the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine 
  > started
  > saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced 
  > yet. And
  > it still works.
  >
  > Shane
  >
  >
  > 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

[Chuck and Judy Zimmer]

 Call a Disabled American Veterans or VFW or Council of the aging they all do 
volunteer work if you ask.  No cost to you.Helping the Low vision or Blind 
groups.  They will give you Ideas.   Z-man Blind Power
  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 12:03 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon


Hi RJ,

  Does anyone already make these aluminum extensions or are they something I
  need to fabricate. If it's something I need to make up, could you give me a
  bit more detail about what you have in mind. How would I attach the
  aluminum extensions to the existing siding? Thanks.

  Take care,

  Ed

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of RJ
  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 10:38 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  There is a simple way to do this if you don't want to drop the lock. Add a
  piece of alumiun extension to the lock and snap the lip over the extension.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 14:48
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  Hi Spiro,

  I was hoping to build an extension out of nylon and then glue it in place.
  I never once thought that gluing the nylon would present such a problem. I
  still like my idea and I'm currently looking into other materials and their
  gluing properties.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]
  On Behalf Of Spiro
  Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 3:33 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

  is it too far out to suggest that you form a lip/lock shape extension the 
  size of the gap?
  Maybe out of something like plumbers epoxy?
  you can work with that stuff, it will be the intended locking shape, as 
  well as the shape of the gap. Once it hardens, you can paint it the right 
  color.
  Before it hardens you can stick a piece of pecs through it to the wall at 
  each end. Use those as stainless screw holes that you can insert just 
  before final hardening to take whatever shape you need. Or, you can drill 
  the hole there and squeeze some construction cement into it.
  Maybe?

  On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Edward Przybylek wrote:

  > Hi,
  >
  >
  >
  > That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the
  > piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up
  > enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no
  > longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each
  piece
  > of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached.
  > This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide
  and
  > 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to
  > have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm
  trying
  > to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the
  > problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto.
  I'm
  > sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm
  > trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a
  > glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing
  > siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but
  > there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or
  > two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct
  > tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem
  > a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the
  > professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal.
  >
  >
  >
  > Take care,
  >
  > Ed Przybylek
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   
  
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   
   ]
  > On Behalf Of NLG
  > Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:34 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  

  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and
  there
  > isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a
  > unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a
  fraction
  > of an inch, and then rezip the siding.
  >
  > - Original Mes

Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

[RJ]

What can a person say, but keep a spare on hand.
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Shane Hecker 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 19:27
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats


Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from 
  talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat says 
  the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine started 
  saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced yet. And 
  it still works.

  Shane 



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] idears for makeing a spinning top pleas

[carl]

thanks
  - Original Message - 
  From: Terry Klarich 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com ; carl 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 10:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] idears for makeing a spinning top pleas


On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 18:27:12 +0100you write:
  >
  >i'm thinking of makeing a frinds suna spinning top but i doan't kno whair to 
start 

  I've made several of them on my lathe over the years. A drill press can be 
used as well.

  Get a length of dowel rod. Drill a hole in a block of wood glew a piece of 
the dowel in the hole. Leave about 3" sticking out.
  Chuck the piece in a drill press or on a lathe. Use what ever tools you have 
to shape the wood. A launcher can be made with a
  piece of wood with a hole on one end. Stick the dowel through the hole, wrap 
string around the dowel by twisting the top. Hold
  the launcher in one hand and pull on the string with the other. A helocopter 
can be made this way as well. My Daughters had great
  fun with simple toys like that. They sure grow up fast. Now, I'm dealing with 
driving and boy friends. Where's my shotgun
  anyway? :)

  Terry


  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

[Dale Leavens]

Maybe if you actually put new batteries in it the message will go away?

Novel idea I know.


  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats


What can a person say, but keep a spare on hand.
  smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Shane Hecker 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 19:27
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

  Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from 
  talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat says 
  the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine started 
  saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced yet. And 
  it still works.

  Shane 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

[Shane Hecker]

Tried that with fully charged rechargables, and it did the same thing. Smile.

Shane

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:34 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats


Maybe if you actually put new batteries in it the message will go away?

  Novel idea I know.

  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

  What can a person say, but keep a spare on hand.
  smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Shane Hecker 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 19:27
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

  Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from 
  talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat says 
  the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine started 
  saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced yet. And 
  it still works.

  Shane 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part

[Spiro]

if the popcorn is truly coarse, you could hang dropclothes and make a 
chamber when spraying. Remove the hooks and no one will see the little 
holes.





On Sat, 8 Aug 2009, Tom Vos wrote:

> Scott,
> Would it be possible to use a thin rodd -- smaller than the drill bit you
> used, to poke a wire or string through the series of holes you drilled?
> If you can get the string through, or a small wire, you could then pull the
> Romex through.
> Also, if you have to patch the ceiling, you can buy an aerosole can of
> popcorn ceiling patch.  You can buy it in fine, medium or coarse.
> But let me warn you, if you do it, cover everything, including walls for
> yards around the area you spray.
> It comes out of the can like a giant fart, and you'll collect some of the
> stuff on yourself too.
> Blessings,
> Tom
>
>  -Original Message-
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Scott Howell
>  Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 7:33 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part
>
>
>All,
>
>  I have a minor problem, ok not a problem so much as I'm just trying
>  to find an easy way to do something that would be simple if I'd just
>  stop trying to make life difficult.
>  I cut a hole in the ceiling for the fan box and I should point out
>  there is no fan or light etc. so a new install from scratch. I also
>  have the added problem of fishing wire from where the switch is to the
>  center of the room and of course the joists have the absolute nerve to
>  be running perpendicular to the direction I need to go; damn builders
>  didn't bother to consult with me before putting the place together,
>  but ah well. Ok, so, yeah I could knock a hole every other joist and
>  bang a hole in each joist and I only need a hole large enough to fit
>  my hand in so I can fish the wire. Now because I'm such a clever
>  fool, I wasted my money and got one of those four foot rods with the
>  bit on the end, meant for drilling hole. Well first it seemed like a
>  fine idea, but controlling that sucker wasn't easy and I'm fairly sure
>  I piloted the bit under the duct that had the nerve to be in my way,
>  but then I hit something that took the drill out of my hands and smash
>  the hell out of my forearm. Now not to be out done by the drill, I
>  tried again and got beat up by the drill again, but since I lack the
>  good sense to stop, I did punch through to the other side, but I have
>  no idea where in hell I ended up. So far my wife hasn't found any
>  holes in the bedrooms upstairs and that must mean I made holes
>  generally in the right direction. However, because I do lack common
>  sense, I didn't realize that trying to pilot the fish tape through the
>  holes I made will be damn near impossible. So, I think the holes are
>  generally in line with each other, but has anyone any tips on driving
>  a fish tape um, well, ahuh blindly through the joists? I'm trying so
>  hard to avoid making anymore holes and trying to justify the cost of
>  the bit/rod deal. I mean it'll be useful in driving up the wall into
>  the whatever it's called up there, but seems I'd have to run the fish
>  tape up that way and not through the hole where the fan box will go.
>  Of course luck would have it that the hole I made is right against
>  the beam and I'm hoping it won't cause me a lot of problems.
>  Of course the real hoot to all this is if I end up making holes, I got
>  one of those ceilings with the popcorn stuff on it. Well it's more
>  like thick, sharp, knuckle-slashing popcorn stuff. So, patching the
>  holes and finding that stuff will be interesting, but I still have the
>  plug I cut out of the ceiling, so matching it shouldn't be to bad and
>  it'll be easier in the end to patch that then if it were all smooth.
>  See I'm trying to avoid making the lovely spouse unhappy with
>  additional destruction. She's not overly happy with the dust, but she
>  understands dust is a way of life in the construction business and
>  well I tried taping the shop vac to the drill and that sort of
>  worked. :) So, a little less dust. Well hey, any thoughts appreciated.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats

[Spiro]

I guess you wouldn't know it if you had replaced the battery.




On Sat, 8 Aug 2009, Shane Hecker wrote:

> Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from
> talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat says
> the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine started
> saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced yet. And
> it still works.
>
> Shane
>
>