Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
You know? I've put these fences up quite a few times. I see I'm completely ignorant when it comes to names of parts. From the link to Lowes, it looks like there are different posts available depending on the topography of the property. Had to sneak in that 50 cent word so I didn't feel stupid as well. They talk about a change in elevation of 15 inches over 100 feet. Not all that much of a drop over the entire run. That is less slope than a sewer line requires at a quarter inch per foot. I'm going to have to play dumb here. I've always just put in a longer post in order to keep the height above ground the same. They want the bottom of the fencing, fabric 2 inches off the ground. If I get to Lowes before you get an answer I'll ask some questions. But from what I read, I'll be giving different info which may confuse things even further. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 10:41 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi Bob, I either did not give enough information describing what I am confused about or I am so confused that I don't understand your answer. Let me paste the information that confused me along with a link to the page with the information on installing the fence and see if this helps me and you to figure this out. (snip) Adding Fittings to Terminal Posts STEP 1 After concrete footings have been allowed to sufficiently harden, slip the rail end bands and tension bands onto the terminal posts. (Refer to parts list for the description and quantity of fittings that are required for various post types and heights.) The long flat surface of the tension band should face toward the outside of the fence NOTE: Take care not to spread or distort the fittings. STEP 2 Apply all terminal post caps. Terraced Ground Corner post assembly is used at point A to allow fabric to follow terraced contour of ground Very Uneven Ground Corner post assembly is used at points A and B when ground rises or drops more than 15 per 100 linear feet To me it sounds like I might need to use one or another type of Corner post assembly, depending on the raise or fall of the ground. This is what I am confused about. This info is found on page; http://www.lowes.com/cd_Install+a+Chain+Link+Fence_588388906_?cm_cr=Fencing+1.2-_-Web+Activity-_-Fencing+1.2+A6+Activity-_-SC_Fencing_Area6-_-20115_5 At 04:04 AM 9/8/2010, you wrote: You still need the posts to be installed to the same depth as the other posts. So if you have fur feet showing on level ground, that's what you want on the incline. The posts on the incline have to remain plumb, or level up and down. That can be a challenge if you refer to the ground. Using a level, check on two sides of the post, 90 degrees from each other to make sure it is vertical in both directions. The 90 degrees will take the sway or lean out of the post . - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 12:49 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi all, Ok, sorry to change horses mid stream, but, I decided to go with a chain link fence. Lots more expensive, but, I feel it will help the property value stay up. Got it all sussed out, except for one thing. Part of the fence will be going up an incline. I read something on the lowes url about needing to do something different for an end post which is on an incline or decline, but, I did not understand what it said. Can any one shed some light on this situation? Thanks for all the help. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
You still need the posts to be installed to the same depth as the other posts. So if you have fur feet showing on level ground, that's what you want on the incline. The posts on the incline have to remain plumb, or level up and down. That can be a challenge if you refer to the ground. Using a level, check on two sides of the post, 90 degrees from each other to make sure it is vertical in both directions. The 90 degrees will take the sway or lean out of the post . - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 12:49 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi all, Ok, sorry to change horses mid stream, but, I decided to go with a chain link fence. Lots more expensive, but, I feel it will help the property value stay up. Got it all sussed out, except for one thing. Part of the fence will be going up an incline. I read something on the lowes url about needing to do something different for an end post which is on an incline or decline, but, I did not understand what it said. Can any one shed some light on this situation? Thanks for all the help. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!
Ah the bad old days of living outside of Buffalo for too long... - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 8:01 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! Alan, Send some of that to Upstate New York as it's pretty chilly here. 45 at present and only going to 75. High yesterday was 65 Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:58 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! We had 105 and 74 today. That's certainly better then the 111 of yesterday. Still, it' above the normals of 98 and 73. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson m...@maxsmusicplace.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 10:09 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! We didn't just break the low temperature record this morning, we shattered it into smithereens. The record was 48 and the low was 43. I don't like the hot weather nor do I like the coldest of winter. That's why fall and spring are my two favorite times of the year. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 5:53 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! I hesitate to sound like I'm complaining as it is only in the 50s here in the sunny and hot South. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 9:33 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! It's 44F here this evening! Who turned off the heat! Didn't get up to 50 all day. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!
No doubt. I'm happy to say for the past 25 years I haven't even owned a snow shovel. We get snow, but it melts fast. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 12:07 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! If you were back near Buffalo Bob you might be doing a good auto polish on your snow blower. Lee On Mon, Sep 06, 2010 at 08:55:54AM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote: Ah the bad old days of living outside of Buffalo for too long... - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 8:01 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! Alan, Send some of that to Upstate New York as it's pretty chilly here. 45 at present and only going to 75. High yesterday was 65 Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:58 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! We had 105 and 74 today. That's certainly better then the 111 of yesterday. Still, it' above the normals of 98 and 73. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson m...@maxsmusicplace.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 10:09 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! We didn't just break the low temperature record this morning, we shattered it into smithereens. The record was 48 and the low was 43. I don't like the hot weather nor do I like the coldest of winter. That's why fall and spring are my two favorite times of the year. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 5:53 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! I hesitate to sound like I'm complaining as it is only in the 50s here in the sunny and hot South. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 9:33 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! It's 44F here this evening! Who turned off the heat! Didn't get up to 50 all day. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Think honk if you're a telepath. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!
I hesitate to sound like I'm complaining as it is only in the 50s here in the sunny and hot South. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 9:33 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat! It's 44F here this evening! Who turned off the heat! Didn't get up to 50 all day. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] porch light
This won't go over well with the wife, but you are right. The fixture itself is what makes it different. There are seals to keep the water out of the outlet. You can run any bulb that fits the threads in the outlet. This is within reason. Don't plug in a 500 watt halogen bulb, or something like that. Otherwise it takes a normal bulb. - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 10:28 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] porch light The light bulb on our front porch went out. Question; being that it has some kind of censor that turns the light on once it gets dark and turns off in the morning when it gets light, is it a special light bulb? My wife thinks so, but I don't think so. I think it'll takes any light bulb providing it fits in the fixture. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] show room shine
And good stuff if you buy from them. I've used it for years and can't complain. And that's saying something for me. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 11:22 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] show room shine Good tips on the site and forums http://www.meguiars.com/ _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carl Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 8:54 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] show room shine when washing the truk any tips on getting that show room shine? i'm in the north east of the UK you can contackt me on skype carlf16 and joine my list for unabridged audiobooks send a blank email to ub_ab_bookspace+subscr...@googlegroups.com mailto:ub_ab_bookspace%2Bsubscribe%40googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] porch light
Look at the top and see if there aren't a couple screws up there. I've seen them where the sides stay in place and you reach down through the top to change the bulb. - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 1:27 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] porch light No problems with sub degree coldness here, I live in Central California. Hardly ever falls below 32 and the front porch is covered. Now, I have to figure out how to change the light bulb. It is shaped like an octagon with vertical strips of glass about inch and a half wide and about 6 inches high with sheet metal between each strip of glass.. If it's like the one we had at our last home, it's a pain in the ass to change light bulbs as it damn near falls apart during the process. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Depends on how soft the ground is there. if you go deep enough with the post you shouldn't have to use concrete. But saying that, concrete would be a good way to make sure nothing can go wrong. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 5:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Thanks for the help with method and tools. I have all the tools I need other than a come-a-long and the pole driver. I have a friend which will lend me his pole driver. Do I need to set the corner posts in concrete? At 06:49 PM 9/1/2010, you wrote: That is a fairly easy job to do. You need to call the utility companies in your area and ask about checking for wires of all sorts, water and gas lines. It's a free service unless you wreck one of the lines. Years ago I was putting up some chain link fencing and was trying to drive in the posts. They are nothing more than light gauge metal pipe. Lowes had a tool that dropped down over the pipe and the top end was closed. There are two handles that come out from the sides of this first piece and you hold them. The posts are driven in the ground by lifting this tool up and slamming it down on the post. It's a right heavy tool but it does a great job at driving posts in the ground. And it doesn't destroy the end of the post. In the event you go with chain link, you might consider a come along as well. Doesn't have to be super powerful because you'd wreck something if you went crazy drawing it up. But a couple tons would lend a hand in stretching the chain link sections. Then you'll have your hands free to connect the nuts and bolts. A thirty pound dog won't require the posts be set in concrete other than possibly the posts at the gate. Any sales rep can show you what you need to know about assembly right in the store. Probably going to need a couple half inch or 9/16 wrenches for the nuts and bolts, I recommend the come along, a level that's really about it. Everything else is probably not going to be necessary. However, I'm pretty sure it's against some rule to buy the minimum in tools. I know I'd be ashamed if I did such a terrible deed. So having said that... You probably need a socket set and a set of combination wrenches to put the different parts of the fence together. I'd go for a power auger to set the posts and a small cement mixer to mix the concrete you will use to set the posts. You might want a laser level and an audible level as well because you can't always be sure one is 100% accurate. Good to have an extra to compare with. It's possible you'll need some vise grips in case the sockets and wrenches don't do all you need. This should definitely get your fence up and add to the ever growing collection of tools you need to combat life's situations. And the list will be shorter next time you take on another project that calls for tools. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 4:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi group, I am looking in to getting a dog. This dog will be for in doors but I want a fenced area for the pet to run and for us to play out in the air. I have an area walled up on two sides, one side the house brick wall and the other side a wood wall of a room addition. I am thinking about having the gate on the wooden wall running along the same plane as the wall, then running the fence at a ninety degree angle to the gate, perpendicular to the brick wall and joining an end fence running perpendicular to the wood wall of the room addition and boxing off the end joining the brick wall to the other ninety degree fence. This will give about a 25 by 50 foot area. As this will not be a big dog, not more than about 30 LBS. this should be enough area, don't you agree? I looked at some mettle fencing, I think it was called welded wire, which looks like it would do the job nicely. Also looked at some mettle fence posts and some wire clamps to attach the fence to the posts. I also have an idea of what to get for the gate and it's fasteners. Now, my concerns are what is involved in putting up the fence? Do I need to have the ground checked by some one to see about water or electrical lines I may puncture with the posts? What tools will I need and what methods do I need to familiarize my self with before starting this project? Thanks for any help you can give. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles
I was at the Yamaha shop about two years ago and they had some of their big bikes in the show room. They told me the belt was made of Kevlar. I'm sure there are other parts to it as well, but that's what they told me. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 11:33 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles Motorcycles also use driveshaft's. The belt that is used for a drive belt on a motorcycle is very similar to a timing belt in a car. There are teeth that fit in to grooves on the sprocket. The first time I heard of a belt drive on a motorcycle, I thought of a fan belt, and I couldn't figure out how that would work without slipping. Less messy than a chain, but you still need to adjust it every once in a while, and the last one I worked on you still had to move the back tire to adjust the belt. also less forgiving when it comes to dirt and stuff getting in the sprockets. Bob, did you mean belts are made from Kevlar:? I have never heard of a Kevlar chain. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 9:32 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles The most common cause of chain failure is a lack of proper maintenance. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net mailto:intheshop%40att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 1:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles The chains on motorcycles are made of Kevlar which is also what they make bullet proof vests from. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 3:15 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles Aloha all, Some friends of ours are overseas and wrote that they bought a bicycle with a rubber belt instead of a chain. Another person responded that these kind of belts have been used in motorcycles for awhile, but are also appearing in the bicycle world. This may be old news to some of you, but it seem cool to me that they won't rust or need lubrication. Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo ! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
That is a fairly easy job to do. You need to call the utility companies in your area and ask about checking for wires of all sorts, water and gas lines. It's a free service unless you wreck one of the lines. Years ago I was putting up some chain link fencing and was trying to drive in the posts. They are nothing more than light gauge metal pipe. Lowes had a tool that dropped down over the pipe and the top end was closed. There are two handles that come out from the sides of this first piece and you hold them. The posts are driven in the ground by lifting this tool up and slamming it down on the post. It's a right heavy tool but it does a great job at driving posts in the ground. And it doesn't destroy the end of the post. In the event you go with chain link, you might consider a come along as well. Doesn't have to be super powerful because you'd wreck something if you went crazy drawing it up. But a couple tons would lend a hand in stretching the chain link sections. Then you'll have your hands free to connect the nuts and bolts. A thirty pound dog won't require the posts be set in concrete other than possibly the posts at the gate. Any sales rep can show you what you need to know about assembly right in the store. Probably going to need a couple half inch or 9/16 wrenches for the nuts and bolts, I recommend the come along, a level that's really about it. Everything else is probably not going to be necessary. However, I'm pretty sure it's against some rule to buy the minimum in tools. I know I'd be ashamed if I did such a terrible deed. So having said that... You probably need a socket set and a set of combination wrenches to put the different parts of the fence together. I'd go for a power auger to set the posts and a small cement mixer to mix the concrete you will use to set the posts. You might want a laser level and an audible level as well because you can't always be sure one is 100% accurate. Good to have an extra to compare with. It's possible you'll need some vise grips in case the sockets and wrenches don't do all you need. This should definitely get your fence up and add to the ever growing collection of tools you need to combat life's situations. And the list will be shorter next time you take on another project that calls for tools. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 4:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi group, I am looking in to getting a dog. This dog will be for in doors but I want a fenced area for the pet to run and for us to play out in the air. I have an area walled up on two sides, one side the house brick wall and the other side a wood wall of a room addition. I am thinking about having the gate on the wooden wall running along the same plane as the wall, then running the fence at a ninety degree angle to the gate, perpendicular to the brick wall and joining an end fence running perpendicular to the wood wall of the room addition and boxing off the end joining the brick wall to the other ninety degree fence. This will give about a 25 by 50 foot area. As this will not be a big dog, not more than about 30 LBS. this should be enough area, don't you agree? I looked at some mettle fencing, I think it was called welded wire, which looks like it would do the job nicely. Also looked at some mettle fence posts and some wire clamps to attach the fence to the posts. I also have an idea of what to get for the gate and it's fasteners. Now, my concerns are what is involved in putting up the fence? Do I need to have the ground checked by some one to see about water or electrical lines I may puncture with the posts? What tools will I need and what methods do I need to familiarize my self with before starting this project? Thanks for any help you can give. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Fence post driver
This is off the Lowes website. I probably did a lousy job of describing it earlier, so here is what it says. 24in Steel Post Driver with Handles Item #: 92079 | Model #: 070653 $25.97 24in Steel Post Driver with Handles a.. Galvanized steel b.. 24 in length c.. Used for driving posts into the ground Maybe I didn't do such a lousy job earlier... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles
The chains on motorcycles are made of Kevlar which is also what they make bullet proof vests from. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 3:15 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles Aloha all, Some friends of ours are overseas and wrote that they bought a bicycle with a rubber belt instead of a chain. Another person responded that these kind of belts have been used in motorcycles for awhile, but are also appearing in the bicycle world. This may be old news to some of you, but it seem cool to me that they won't rust or need lubrication. Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] whetstone
Try some kerosene - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 6:58 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] whetstone OK I am a bad boy and have been useing a whetstone without oil or water. I have soaked it in hot water and soap, but didn't seem to get good results. Any other ideas to clean out the clogging of metal particles and such. Ron [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] my experiences with sheetrock compound so far
I don't know if there is an exact standard for when to use tape and when it's too large an opening for tape alone. I don't like to go much more than two inches with tape alone. Once a hole is larger than that, I will use another piece of drywall to fill the hole first. In order to use drywall, you first have to span the hole with a board from the back side. Otherwise, the piece will just fall behind the wall. If the hole is real large, you may need to use more than one backer board to make a strong repair. Cut a length of board a few inches longer than the opening. Drive a screw into the center of the board to use as a handle. Now tilt the board until both ends are behind the sheetrock. This is where you prove your skill. While holding the screw in the center, you will need to drive a screw through the sheetrock and into the board. Once the board is pulled tight to the back side of the sheetrock, you can remove the screw in the center. Now you can cut a piece of spare sheetrock to fit in the opening and also screw it to the backer board. Cover the area with tape and now apply the joint compound. While it is so tempting to use your fingers, you have found out why it isn't such a good idea. In time you will learn to listen to the sound the trowel makes as you spread the compound. It will almost be a hissing sound when the angle is right. I haven't been following the threads as close so in case no one has said it yet; apply with a smaller putty knife or trowel, then spread it out with a wider one. I use a 12 inch wide trowel to feather the edges of the compound. And as hard as it is, once you have done the feathering in, just get away from it and let it dry. Each time you touch it, you make another repair for yourself. - Original Message - From: blake To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 4:44 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] my experiences with sheetrock compound so far Hey all, ok so i decided if i messed things up bad with this stuff i would call for help ahha. Anyway so this stuff that i have comes with a puddy knife that i haven't found much use for as of yet. I have been just taking this stuff and basicly smearing it in to the whole with my fingers until it gets over the whole and then i just wait for it to dry. The reason i want it to come up over the whole a bit is so that i can make sure that it got in there really good. Im going to be sanding it down anyway so i don't guess it matters. So is your fingers the best thing for this that you have found? Or have some of you used the puddy knife or a different way of doing this? The problem that i have is that after a while you tend to get allot of your fingers and its hard to tell whats in the whole and what is just sticking to your fingers. Anyway any help guys? The stuff that i got just dries and when it does its like a pouder. Should i use tape at all? Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower?
If water is running out of the spout at the bottom as well as the shower head, I'd pay attention to the diverter valve. You'll either have a stem you have to lift, or a handle to turn in order to send water to the shower head. If it's leaking at the spout to fill the tub, all of the water isn't reaching the top. It's always possible the head is plugged and causing a back up of pressure. Take off the head and see if there is still a leak at the spout. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:23 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower? Hi all, the water pressure in my shower is kind of low and allot of the water still comes out of the bottom faucet. Is it the head that needs replacing or what/ I could be wrong bu i believe the head has been replaced recently. Any ideas? Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower?
Sometimes soaking one in white vinegar will loosen deposits. But with the shower heads today being designed to be more efficient, the openings are real small and it's hit or miss. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 5:17 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower? Yep most certainly its the head. I took it off and now there is no water coming out from the bottom. I must replace the head tomorrow. Just curious can you unstop a head? On 8/26/10, Blake Hardin blakehardin5...@gmail.com wrote: On 8/26/10, Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net wrote: If water is running out of the spout at the bottom as well as the shower head, I'd pay attention to the diverter valve. You'll either have a stem you have to lift, or a handle to turn in order to send water to the shower head. If it's leaking at the spout to fill the tub, all of the water isn't reaching the top. It's always possible the head is plugged and causing a back up of pressure. Take off the head and see if there is still a leak at the spout. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:23 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower? Hi all, the water pressure in my shower is kind of low and allot of the water still comes out of the bottom faucet. Is it the head that needs replacing or what/ I could be wrong bu i believe the head has been replaced recently. Any ideas? Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1. -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions
If weeds are all you want to get rid of, it might be easier to pick up a roll of landscape fabric. This will let water pass through, but not light. It will smother weeds . You can use the Quikrete but the weeds will have to be removed first. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions Hi, Don't know if I have the name right but I know some sort of bag concrete is available for making a concrete surface. Asking for a friend who has a raised back porch and has to constantly fight weeds in the spring and summer. He and I were wondering if he pored some concrete if that would do away with his constant fight with weeds under his porch. So, what am I looking for, will it be a fix in this situation and how is it applied? Thanks for your help. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in?
Unless it's real short, I use a clothes pin to get one started. Over many years I've gotten pretty good at hitting nails. My thumb nail for example. - Original Message - From: Jewel To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 9:35 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? I have a question about driving in tacks where they are so short that there is not enough shaft under the head to be able to hold it. The same applies to small staples. What is the trick to holding them in place before they are anchored sufficiently into the timber? Jewel- Original Message - From: Jo Taliaferro soaringeag...@comcast.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:08 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? Yeah, I get my best friend to hold the nail while I hammer! Lol. I used to play around in my dad's workshop and there were many times Dad found blood on his workbench after my explorations. I didn't want anyone to know I had limitations! I do better with smaller hammers because of the size of my hands and because I tend to hold the hammer fairly close to the pounding part and my other hand closer to what I want to pound the nail into. Just my own style.but it seems to work if I can just get the silly things in straight! The Handywoman, Jo Taliaferro From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Blake Hardin Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 6:04 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? hey all hows it going? Ok so when i was little i used to mess around with hammering nails in and such but i was wondering how do you guys do it? Like if im just trying to hammer a nail in to a board with a hammer do i hold the nail with my fingers and try to aim for the nail with the hamer? That allot of times will end up being my thumb under the hammer rather than the nail haha. So does your aim just get better with practis or do you have something you can put the nail in to hold it so you wont have to use your fingrs? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5148 (20100526) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] ant problem
My daughter just called with the same problem. I'll just paste in the info I sent her. Regular Ants Note that different types of ants have different food preferences, so what works for one type may not work for another. You may have to try a few different things to see what gives you the results you want. For ants of any sort inside use your typical bait trap, and sprinkle talc in areas that you do not wish them to travel. usually I can coax them to a bait trap by leaving a certain area without talc. Do not use baby powder that is made of cornstarch... this will not bother them. it has to be talc. (Joseph Howington) (Melissa notes: if you have pets who may lick up or kick up and inhale the talc, it will be safer for the pets to use another method.) This is a good one for repelling ants from the kitchen. Mix a little peppermint toothpaste with a few drops of dishwashing detergent. Apply to area of benches, cupboards, etc. with a cotton bud (Q-Tip). It really works. (Chrissy Pearson) Draw lines using chalk around areas to protect them from ants or to keep them from entering areas. Adding crushed egg shell to potted plants also helps keep plant pests away. (Catherine Rigby) Plant bee balm (Monarda sp.) around the foundations of the house. (Susan MacLeod) Plant around house, or make sachets, or sprays of infusions of spike lavender, garlic, geranium, citronella, eucalyptus, clove, camphor, atlas cedarwood, mints, thyme, basil, rosemary, lemon balm, chili peppers. (Catherine Rigby) I have heard that ants aren't very fond of red pepper, red chili powder or cream of tartar. I have tried cayenne pepper. It kept them pretty well corralled but the really determined buggers would cross the line anyway. (Christa Boroskin) I kill stray ants with a mixture of liquid dish soap and water in a spray bottle. I believe the liquid soap serves to immobilize the ant and then drown it. It works within seconds. My mother-in-law used a mixture of Simple Green and water to the same effect. Just wipe up with a sponge. (Christa Boroskin) Borax powder is used as a sprinkle around the house, but it could be harmful to free roamers. I found an alternate recipe for ant powder: one cup baking soda plus one cup confectioner's sugar. (Catherine Rigby) Ants really dislike mint. You can do all kinds of things with mint. One of the easiest is to get Dr. Bronner's Peppermint Castile Shampoo and just put a line of it across areas where ants are coming in. They won't cross the line. (Judy Mike Stouffer) Coffee grounds. Make yourself some coffee and just scoop the wet grounds out of the pot and place them in strategic locations. The ants back off. (And if you don't drink coffee, you can still make it and use the grounds.) I used to keep the grounds damp by spraying them with a little water now and then. When the ants start getting bold, use more fresh grounds. After awhile, they just stopped coming! (Amani Booher) I have found that grease-eating ants (carpenter ants) like a mixture of bacon grease, flour and boric acid. I place it in a small glass jar with holes in the lid (this keeps kids and pets out) and mark the content. Just place outside or near the nest. They will eat it and die over a period of weeks. Use the same type of container for other ants and mix with peanut butter and boric acid, or honey and boric acid. For common sugar ants you can buy little containers of liquid boric acid solution. The biggest problem in the south is fire ants. I bait the same way, but I also use a boric acid paste (from Blue mountain) and squeeze into a straw, cut into 3 strips and place near the nest. It will dry, so every few days rub the straw to make fine particles. You want to make sure you don't contaminate the soil. Boiling water works, but you have to be very careful. Fire ants feed in the morning and evening. You have to approach the nest very softly or they will retreat underground. Any detergent will kill ants. (Makes you wonder about detergent.) Keep a mixture in a spray bottle for instant kill. The soap will destroy the chemical trail that they follow. The best solution is to repair and replace screens and window caulking at least once a year. Blocking them from getting in is easier than getting them out of the house. (Nicole Ashley) It seems that ants don't like capsacin, used in topical pain medications. I couldn't find the ground cinnamon one night and was trying to figure out what to use to corral them to keep them from spreading out and guide them towards the bait. Was thinking of trying Vaseline, but didn't have any, and didn't want to sacrifice the little bit of antibiotic ointment I had left. My eye fell upon a jar of chondroitin-boswellian-capsacin cream, so I figured, why not? Smeared it on the counter and splash, corralling them in like I've done with cinnamon; they won't cross the line. Told some friends about it and within days one had an opportunity
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue
Smells like rubbing alcohol doesn't it? That's because it is for the most part. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 10:37 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue Hi David, I've always used a product called Stabil (at least I think that's how to spell it). Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Engebretson Jr. Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 9:47 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue what type of additive do you use? thanks, david David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting Need web hosting? Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 6:31 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue Hi David, Years ago, I had a very similar problem with my mower. It occurred in the spring immediately after I brought my mower out of winter storage. The service person who checked my mower told me it was old gas. He drained and replaced the gas and the mower has been running well ever since. I might have forgotten to put an additive in the gas when I stored it for the winter. I never forget this anymore. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of David Engebretson Jr. Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue My mower stops running after a few minutes of mowing unless I open the throttle while I prime it with the little rubber bulb on the side of the carb. This must be a tell tale sign of a specific issue... anyone know what it is? thermometer? clogged primer? need a new motor? thanks, david [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3046 - Release Date: 08/02/10 17:59:00 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units come with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him. I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines to the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the unit. I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they were higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's. Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles. It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one end at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6. Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out for it. Finally you will have to make a new pad. With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills up, you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart. Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for longer than the unit will last. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump Hey Alan, I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer. On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote: The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just get a new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing the right way. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump Hi folks, Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad, remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, and set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of course this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit. I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there is it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, but the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it is better to protect it from the sun if possible. The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is slowly eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be easy to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it up enough to really get under there and build up the ground. However, perhaps it is possible and any thoughts appreciated. THanks, Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to:
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
I wouldn't think 2 inches is necessary for something that light. The gravel will let the water run through it without eroding the ground so much under everything. I'd go with an inch of gravel myself. If you are on a slope, then you may want to think about wings on the inside of the form. Put the closed end at the upper part of the slope and then use a piece of half inch plywood on the inside of the form to level everything out. The wings will touch the ground and you can help keep the concrete from running under the edges of the form that way. Depending on the amount of slope, you can use extra gravel on the downhill side. Then just dump the concrete, I like Quikrete mix personally, in on the gravel and let it set. As you probably know, you will most likely need a wing to help close in the open end, to keep the gravel from running away. You know how things go when you have to improvise. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:48 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions on the actual digging part here. I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under the unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree without breaking lines and the like. Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in order to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 3 to 4 inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, I will need to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as much as possible with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything else? I am thinking that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump and I think the idea is water etc. runs under the unit and on down the hill. I wonder if building that up and trying to direct the water to run elsewhere would help. I know this is hard to describe, but all thoughts appreciated. On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote: They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units come with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him. I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines to the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the unit. I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they were higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's. Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles. It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one end at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6. Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out for it. Finally you will have to make a new pad. With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills up, you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart. Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for longer than the unit will last. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump Hey Alan, I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer. On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote: The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just get a new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing the right way. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney
I'm of the all or nothing belief. If it goes, you have to fill in the floor in two places. If only part comes out, you may have to replace more than a couple places of the floor. I'd be real nervous about taking part of it out. You could probably do the demolition and enjoy it. just remember, it also goes through the roof which has its own set of problems. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:13 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more. Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper part from the ceiling joists. Does this sound realistic? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue
Gonna need a few more details for this one. Next time you run it, instead of priming it when it stops, take the gas cap off and put it back on. It's a simple thing, but they can get plugged and create a vacuum. After that, what is different? Did you start buying gas at a different place? Did it just start giving you trouble? When you prime it, does it run smooth while it runs? Does it have adjusting screws on the carburetor? Tell me the rough age, the brand and any maintenance done recently. Then we'll see if we can make any sense of your problem. - Original Message - From: David Engebretson Jr. To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:26 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue My mower stops running after a few minutes of mowing unless I open the throttle while I prime it with the little rubber bulb on the side of the carb. This must be a tell tale sign of a specific issue... anyone know what it is? thermometer? clogged primer? need a new motor? thanks, david [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers
You're looking for something very pricey as in hundreds to measure a chain that can be replaced for under $20. But if you want to look into it, try captek.net - Original Message - From: Donnie Harris To: Blindhandyman@YahooGroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 12:00 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers I am a new list member and I am wondering if anyone knows about some type of either a talking or at least audible of some sort of calipers or or maybe a dial indicator. I work on chainsaws and I sharpen chainsaw chains and I am searching for something to help me with measureing the amount of the tooth on the chain that I am removeing, it's pretty critical to take off the exact amount when I change the machine from the left tooth to the right. This is when it can varie maybe 10 to 30 thousands. I need to find something audible even clicks would be fine if it is accurate Also I have to set the drag's on the chains and in this process I have to measure the difference of height of the tooth to the drag in between the teeth, this should be around25 thousands in height for the best cut. I would appreciate any feed back. Thanks in advance, Donnie Harris. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers
I still have the zero to one, one to two and two to three inched. Of all things when I worked for Pontiac, someone ran off with my 3 to 4 inch and 4 to 5 inch mics. Bet that was a surprise when they opened the box and went to use it... The NFB site shows them as still available but I haven't had a need to replace the larger ones. I also still have the zero to 3 inch depth micrometer also from Starrett. There are talking calipers out there accurate to 2 thousandths of an inch, but that will take some time to measure around 62 links of a chain and you can only charge about $10 to sharpen it. - Original Message - From: Alan Paganelli To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 2:16 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers I'm not sure that when your talking that tight a measurement that any talking device would be very accurate. I have a Starit micrometer for the blind but it's a 2 to 3 inch and even at that, you have to use your fingernail as it dips into indentations. It's time consuming to read but it does read in thousands of an inch. I haven't heard of them in years and don't even think they make them any more. I got mine from the state of Indiana. The real world reality was nobody is going to pay you to see if a 35 dollar crankshaft is out of round. It would have cost you $140 to have it replaced when in those days you could buy a brand new lawn Mohr for $99. I think I used it a few times in school but never in the field. It's probably in the bottom of my specialty tools tool box where it's been for 30 years. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 5:38 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers You're looking for something very pricey as in hundreds to measure a chain that can be replaced for under $20. But if you want to look into it, try captek.net - Original Message - From: Donnie Harris To: Blindhandyman@YahooGroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 12:00 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers I am a new list member and I am wondering if anyone knows about some type of either a talking or at least audible of some sort of calipers or or maybe a dial indicator. I work on chainsaws and I sharpen chainsaw chains and I am searching for something to help me with measureing the amount of the tooth on the chain that I am removeing, it's pretty critical to take off the exact amount when I change the machine from the left tooth to the right. This is when it can varie maybe 10 to 30 thousands. I need to find something audible even clicks would be fine if it is accurate Also I have to set the drag's on the chains and in this process I have to measure the difference of height of the tooth to the drag in between the teeth, this should be around25 thousands in height for the best cut. I would appreciate any feed back. Thanks in advance, Donnie Harris. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter
Here ya go. The batteries were in mine when I got it. To replace them, there is a Phillips head screw in a small recess on the back. Just a warning, the cover is very happy in place and it doesn't like opening up... But the batteries are under that cover. For orientation, lay the meter on its back with the jacks for the probes at the top. The probe with the button goes on the left side. Probes will fit on both sides but won't work if they get reversed. Below the two jacks for the probes is the selector dial. Turning the dial to the farthest stops in either direction will turn the meter off. To make a choice, turn the dial once and push the button on the probe. Depending on the direction you start from, the female voice will tell you where you are. She will say something like AC .00 volts. Don't go by that as a direct quote, it's an example. Point being, each time you turn the dial and push the button, the voice will tell you the unit of measurement. I don't have mine in front of me so I won't be much help on the buttons below the dial. There is one on each side. One button will give you the reading just like pushing the button on the probe. I seem to remember the other selects different modes but I've been wrong before... Below those two buttons are three larger buttons across the face. Experiment with them and you'll be able to catch on to what they do. As long as you don't touch the probes to anything while you play, you won't hurt the meter. I seem to recall the one in the center is a toggle switch. For example touching the two probe tips together will test for continuity and cause the meter to make a sound while the probes are touching. If you push the center button once, the sound will start. Pushing it again will toggle sound off. The toggle has no effect on the speech, just the sound for continuity testing. This meter will test a ton of different functions some of which I have no use for, or even know what they mean. So maybe some other people can tell you about their uses. If you don't have a scanner, maybe I can scan in the instruction sheet. It isn't very long. They are assuming you already know the theory behind a multimeter. - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:37 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter hi again just got the talking multimeter from marlin jones. can anyone tell me the basics like where do the batteries go? and wich side does the lead with the button go on? or anyother info about this. thanks for any help, can't wait to stick this in an outlet. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter
I don't have that problem myself. Make sure both plugs are seated firmly and the probe with the button needs to be on the left hand side when laying on its back with the plugs at the top. - Original Message - From: Loren Buntemeyer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 9:47 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter I just came aboard to the list and I also have one of those meters and many times the unit does not talk when I press the button on the handpiece. Does anyone else have that problem? Loren Buntemeyer - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 5:03 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter Here ya go. The batteries were in mine when I got it. To replace them, there is a Phillips head screw in a small recess on the back. Just a warning, the cover is very happy in place and it doesn't like opening up... But the batteries are under that cover. For orientation, lay the meter on its back with the jacks for the probes at the top. The probe with the button goes on the left side. Probes will fit on both sides but won't work if they get reversed. Below the two jacks for the probes is the selector dial. Turning the dial to the farthest stops in either direction will turn the meter off. To make a choice, turn the dial once and push the button on the probe. Depending on the direction you start from, the female voice will tell you where you are. She will say something like AC .00 volts. Don't go by that as a direct quote, it's an example. Point being, each time you turn the dial and push the button, the voice will tell you the unit of measurement. I don't have mine in front of me so I won't be much help on the buttons below the dial. There is one on each side. One button will give you the reading just like pushing the button on the probe. I seem to remember the other selects different modes but I've been wrong before... Below those two buttons are three larger buttons across the face. Experiment with them and you'll be able to catch on to what they do. As long as you don't touch the probes to anything while you play, you won't hurt the meter. I seem to recall the one in the center is a toggle switch. For example touching the two probe tips together will test for continuity and cause the meter to make a sound while the probes are touching. If you push the center button once, the sound will start. Pushing it again will toggle sound off. The toggle has no effect on the speech, just the sound for continuity testing. This meter will test a ton of different functions some of which I have no use for, or even know what they mean. So maybe some other people can tell you about their uses. If you don't have a scanner, maybe I can scan in the instruction sheet. It isn't very long. They are assuming you already know the theory behind a multimeter. - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:37 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter hi again just got the talking multimeter from marlin jones. can anyone tell me the basics like where do the batteries go? and wich side does the lead with the button go on? or anyother info about this. thanks for any help, can't wait to stick this in an outlet. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter
It's possible, but you'd have to check with Jones to be sure. I like the button on the unit as well. If I'm testing live current I use an alligator clip and stay away from the probe end. - Original Message - From: Loren Buntemeyer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 3:47 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter Everything is positioned as you say. A lot of the time, I just press the button on the unit. Is it possible the cable is bad? Loren - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 2:04 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter I don't have that problem myself. Make sure both plugs are seated firmly and the probe with the button needs to be on the left hand side when laying on its back with the plugs at the top. - Original Message - From: Loren Buntemeyer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 9:47 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter I just came aboard to the list and I also have one of those meters and many times the unit does not talk when I press the button on the handpiece. Does anyone else have that problem? Loren Buntemeyer - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 5:03 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter Here ya go. The batteries were in mine when I got it. To replace them, there is a Phillips head screw in a small recess on the back. Just a warning, the cover is very happy in place and it doesn't like opening up... But the batteries are under that cover. For orientation, lay the meter on its back with the jacks for the probes at the top. The probe with the button goes on the left side. Probes will fit on both sides but won't work if they get reversed. Below the two jacks for the probes is the selector dial. Turning the dial to the farthest stops in either direction will turn the meter off. To make a choice, turn the dial once and push the button on the probe. Depending on the direction you start from, the female voice will tell you where you are. She will say something like AC .00 volts. Don't go by that as a direct quote, it's an example. Point being, each time you turn the dial and push the button, the voice will tell you the unit of measurement. I don't have mine in front of me so I won't be much help on the buttons below the dial. There is one on each side. One button will give you the reading just like pushing the button on the probe. I seem to remember the other selects different modes but I've been wrong before... Below those two buttons are three larger buttons across the face. Experiment with them and you'll be able to catch on to what they do. As long as you don't touch the probes to anything while you play, you won't hurt the meter. I seem to recall the one in the center is a toggle switch. For example touching the two probe tips together will test for continuity and cause the meter to make a sound while the probes are touching. If you push the center button once, the sound will start. Pushing it again will toggle sound off. The toggle has no effect on the speech, just the sound for continuity testing. This meter will test a ton of different functions some of which I have no use for, or even know what they mean. So maybe some other people can tell you about their uses. If you don't have a scanner, maybe I can scan in the instruction sheet. It isn't very long. They are assuming you already know the theory behind a multimeter. - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:37 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter hi again just got the talking multimeter from marlin jones. can anyone tell me the basics like where do the batteries go? and wich side does the lead with the button go on? or anyother info about this. thanks for any help, can't wait to stick this in an outlet. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter
It will eat up $40... Unless they are on sale it runs $39.95 or 99. Well worth the price though. - Original Message - From: David Engebretson Jr. To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter Hello, How much did you pay for this toy, er, tool? Thanks, David David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting Need web hosting? Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 11:37 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter hi again just got the talking multimeter from marlin jones. can anyone tell me the basics like where do the batteries go? and wich side does the lead with the button go on? or anyother info about this. thanks for any help, can't wait to stick this in an outlet. -- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3039 - Release Date: 07/30/10 13:13:00 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter
I think the web site is mpjaa.com If not Google Marlon P Jones and Associates. - Original Message - From: Alan Paganelli To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 3:46 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter I somehow missed it if somebody posted the link as to where to buy one of these talking meters as my talking Radio Shack multimeter died a long time ago and can't get parts for it so I could use a new one. Thanks in advance! Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 12:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter It will eat up $40... Unless they are on sale it runs $39.95 or 99. Well worth the price though. - Original Message - From: David Engebretson Jr. To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter Hello, How much did you pay for this toy, er, tool? Thanks, David David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting Need web hosting? Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 11:37 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help with new talking multimeter hi again just got the talking multimeter from marlin jones. can anyone tell me the basics like where do the batteries go? and wich side does the lead with the button go on? or anyother info about this. thanks for any help, can't wait to stick this in an outlet. -- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3039 - Release Date: 07/30/10 13:13:00 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
Totally agree! - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 9:00 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? Bob, I did forget part of what I was thinking. In those type of law suits I think the plaintiff and his/her attorney should have to split the cost of the defense's costs should the plaintiff lose. That would make a lot of ambulance chasers think four or five times before taking on a case. It would cause the plaintiff's attorney to do a truly honest evaluation of the legitimacy of the case. I am a massage therapist and I have to carry 3 million in liability malpractice insurance. This does increase my operating costs. I know of several physicians whose malpractice insurance runs them over $180,000 per year. Who do you suppose actually pays for this? There is a Denver attorney named Frank Azar who advertises on TV. The shots show a horrid automobile accident and a (supposed) newscaster saying that this is a bad automobile accident followed by a shot of an air medivac taking off followed by a shot of Frankie boy and the newscaster saying Someone has called in Frank Azar followed by a shot of good old Frankie at the scene. Now, if this is not ambulance chasing I do not know what might be. (ROFLROFLROFL) Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 5:39 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? A jury is supposed to be made up of 12 of your piers. So there should have been 12 woodworkers on the jury and they'd have finished the case in a day. I like the idea of having to pay legal costs if you lose. Adds some extra consideration before finding a slick attorney and filing papers. - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 6:18 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? Bob, I could not agree with you more. These idiot law suits should be illegal and, furthermore, when the plaintiff looses I am not sure that he should not have to pay the legal costs involved in the defense. Man, that sure would slow down some folks who know that it will cost the company or other person a whole lot to defend themselves even though the case may be hopeless. You are also correct, even if the saw had all of the available safety equipment on it the moron would probably have disabled it as well. How the Dickens did that goof win the case? Cy, The anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 3:47 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? This is truly a disgusting reflection on the legal system. To reward some idiot for disabling any safety features that were available is crazy. I've researched this case for an article I am helping write for another list I'm on. For those that don't know the details, here are the important ones. The guy was working for a hardwood flooring company. He was using a bench top saw, not on a table or bench top, but on the floor. Next, he was trying to run a piece of 3 quarter inch thick by 2 and a quarter inches wide piece of oak wood through the blade of this saw without any available safety devices. If you read the instruction manual for any saw, they advise having the blade set so the teeth are just above the surface of the wood being cut. Court papers show he had the blade set to 3 inches, almost 2 and a quarter inches higher than recommended, and almost the limit for blade height on that particular saw. All table saw manufacturers recommend keeping the blade guard in place. This one had been removed. Anyone that uses a table saw knows the fence is required to make a straight cut. The fence in this case was not on the saw either. The victim admitted in court, both the blade guard and fence were not in place. Finally, when he started the cut, he said the wood started to chatter so he shut the saw down. He brushed the surface of the table clean and resumed his cut. When the wood started chattering again, he started pushing harder, completely opposite what you should do, and that is when his mishap occurred. In the court papers, he admitted to having operated the saw while on one knee on the floor. A completely off balance position. It is important to note that the law suit doesn't involve the flooring company this guy worked for. This is an attempt
Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
Mike, Yours is definitely a special case and through no fault of your own. I don't have a problem with you being able to collect any amount. It would be different if you had done something stupid. But if I remember right from our talking, you developed problems before ever leaving the hospital. Not much you can do to protect yourself in your case. Just remember if you fall out of that boat because you hit a wave, don't sue California because the water was too hard... hahaha - Original Message - From: Mike Barbara Arcadia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 11:59 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? Hi List; How much is your eye sight worth? I lost my eyesight to medical malpractice. What started as an abscessed wisdom tooth that resulted in gangrene. It almost killed me but, in California the laws set limits on how much you can sue for in a medical malpractice lawsuit. I don't much give a damn about how much a doctor has to pay in medmal insurance because when they totally screw up they just walk away and the person they totally screwed over is left holding the bag for the rest of their of life. Yet, you get these dub ass lawsuits that win a plaintiff tons of money for the dumbest reasons! This is a topic that I don't take lightly because of some of the stupid lawsuits like the ones mentioned about hot coffee and people trying to trim their hedges with a damn lawnmower! All I am trying to say is that doctors, at times, should be held more accountable for their actions and this world needs a whole lot more common sense that more stupid laws that allow people to bring such frivalous lawsuits. Okay, end of rant! Take care. Mike - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker shanehec...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 1:35 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? I thought this was interesting. Shane Feed: Productopia: The ConsumerSearch Blog Posted on: Saturday, July 24, 2010 8:02 AM Author: Catherine Jo Morgan Subject: How much is a finger worth? How about a hand? Do table saw http://www.consumersearch.com/table-saw-reviews manufacturers have an obligation to use the safest technology available? The first jury to consider this question -- in a civil lawsuit against the maker of Ryobi table saws -- answered quite a definite yes, to the tune of a 1.5 million dollar award http://www.boston.com/yourtown/malden/articles/2010/03/06/man_wins_15m_in_first_of_its_kind_saw_case/%20 to the plaintiff. read http://www.consumersearch.com/blog/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0?utm_source=RSSutm_medium=RSS more http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:yIl2AUoC8zAhttp://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:qj6IDK7rITshttp://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:V_sGLiPBpWUhttp://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:gIN9vFwOqvQhttp://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:F7zBnMyn0Lo http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/product-reviews/~4/RST_N4bUEekViewhttp://rss.consumersearch.com/~r/product-reviews/~3/RST_N4bUEek/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0 article...[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
This is truly a disgusting reflection on the legal system. To reward some idiot for disabling any safety features that were available is crazy. I've researched this case for an article I am helping write for another list I'm on. For those that don't know the details, here are the important ones. The guy was working for a hardwood flooring company. He was using a bench top saw, not on a table or bench top, but on the floor. Next, he was trying to run a piece of 3 quarter inch thick by 2 and a quarter inches wide piece of oak wood through the blade of this saw without any available safety devices. If you read the instruction manual for any saw, they advise having the blade set so the teeth are just above the surface of the wood being cut. Court papers show he had the blade set to 3 inches, almost 2 and a quarter inches higher than recommended, and almost the limit for blade height on that particular saw. All table saw manufacturers recommend keeping the blade guard in place. This one had been removed. Anyone that uses a table saw knows the fence is required to make a straight cut. The fence in this case was not on the saw either. The victim admitted in court, both the blade guard and fence were not in place. Finally, when he started the cut, he said the wood started to chatter so he shut the saw down. He brushed the surface of the table clean and resumed his cut. When the wood started chattering again, he started pushing harder, completely opposite what you should do, and that is when his mishap occurred. In the court papers, he admitted to having operated the saw while on one knee on the floor. A completely off balance position. It is important to note that the law suit doesn't involve the flooring company this guy worked for. This is an attempt to mandate that all saws carry the blade break system in place on the SawStop brand. The model saw used cost $159 from home Depot. A bench top saw is designed to be lighter in weight, and is smaller so it can be used on a bench top. Adding a blade brake would greatly increase the size of the saw, and probably make it unsafe to sit on a bench. Not to mention the fact that you can forget about $159 for a price. The same saw would most likely double in price if not more. If the congress really wants to do something productive, something that would help all of us, they need to put a stop to law suits like this. Suing McDonalds because you are fat, or because their coffee is too hot? When I owned a shop years ago, we were all terrified as business owners when some jerk picked up a running lawn mower and tried to cut his hedges with it. This guy lost his finger tips but sued because there wasn't a warning label saying a mower wasn't fit for trimming hedges. His win in this law suit put a whole company out of business. You can't legislate against stupidity. If I use a machine designed to cut something as hard as oak wood, I know it won't have a problem cutting my fingers or hand off. If I take off the blade guard and fence and still try to cut wood, I deserve any punishment the saw dishes out for being that stupid. Have a problem paying for health insurance? Paying claims like these are what helps boost the cost. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 4:35 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? I thought this was interesting. Shane Feed: Productopia: The ConsumerSearch Blog Posted on: Saturday, July 24, 2010 8:02 AM Author: Catherine Jo Morgan Subject: How much is a finger worth? How about a hand? Do table saw http://www.consumersearch.com/table-saw-reviews manufacturers have an obligation to use the safest technology available? The first jury to consider this question -- in a civil lawsuit against the maker of Ryobi table saws -- answered quite a definite yes, to the tune of a 1.5 million dollar award http://www.boston.com/yourtown/malden/articles/2010/03/06/man_wins_15m_in_first_of_its_kind_saw_case/%20 to the plaintiff. read http://www.consumersearch.com/blog/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0?utm_source=RSSutm_medium=RSS more http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:yIl2AUoC8zA http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:qj6IDK7rITs http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:V_sGLiPBpWU http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:gIN9vFwOqvQ http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:F7zBnMyn0Lo http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/product-reviews/~4/RST_N4bUEek View http://rss.consumersearch.com/~r/product-reviews/~3/RST_N4bUEek/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0 article... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message
Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
A jury is supposed to be made up of 12 of your piers. So there should have been 12 woodworkers on the jury and they'd have finished the case in a day. I like the idea of having to pay legal costs if you lose. Adds some extra consideration before finding a slick attorney and filing papers. - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 6:18 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? Bob, I could not agree with you more. These idiot law suits should be illegal and, furthermore, when the plaintiff looses I am not sure that he should not have to pay the legal costs involved in the defense. Man, that sure would slow down some folks who know that it will cost the company or other person a whole lot to defend themselves even though the case may be hopeless. You are also correct, even if the saw had all of the available safety equipment on it the moron would probably have disabled it as well. How the Dickens did that goof win the case? Cy, The anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 3:47 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? This is truly a disgusting reflection on the legal system. To reward some idiot for disabling any safety features that were available is crazy. I've researched this case for an article I am helping write for another list I'm on. For those that don't know the details, here are the important ones. The guy was working for a hardwood flooring company. He was using a bench top saw, not on a table or bench top, but on the floor. Next, he was trying to run a piece of 3 quarter inch thick by 2 and a quarter inches wide piece of oak wood through the blade of this saw without any available safety devices. If you read the instruction manual for any saw, they advise having the blade set so the teeth are just above the surface of the wood being cut. Court papers show he had the blade set to 3 inches, almost 2 and a quarter inches higher than recommended, and almost the limit for blade height on that particular saw. All table saw manufacturers recommend keeping the blade guard in place. This one had been removed. Anyone that uses a table saw knows the fence is required to make a straight cut. The fence in this case was not on the saw either. The victim admitted in court, both the blade guard and fence were not in place. Finally, when he started the cut, he said the wood started to chatter so he shut the saw down. He brushed the surface of the table clean and resumed his cut. When the wood started chattering again, he started pushing harder, completely opposite what you should do, and that is when his mishap occurred. In the court papers, he admitted to having operated the saw while on one knee on the floor. A completely off balance position. It is important to note that the law suit doesn't involve the flooring company this guy worked for. This is an attempt to mandate that all saws carry the blade break system in place on the SawStop brand. The model saw used cost $159 from home Depot. A bench top saw is designed to be lighter in weight, and is smaller so it can be used on a bench top. Adding a blade brake would greatly increase the size of the saw, and probably make it unsafe to sit on a bench. Not to mention the fact that you can forget about $159 for a price. The same saw would most likely double in price if not more. If the congress really wants to do something productive, something that would help all of us, they need to put a stop to law suits like this. Suing McDonalds because you are fat, or because their coffee is too hot? When I owned a shop years ago, we were all terrified as business owners when some jerk picked up a running lawn mower and tried to cut his hedges with it. This guy lost his finger tips but sued because there wasn't a warning label saying a mower wasn't fit for trimming hedges. His win in this law suit put a whole company out of business. You can't legislate against stupidity. If I use a machine designed to cut something as hard as oak wood, I know it won't have a problem cutting my fingers or hand off. If I take off the blade guard and fence and still try to cut wood, I deserve any punishment the saw dishes out for being that stupid. Have a problem paying for health insurance? Paying claims like these are what helps boost the cost. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 4:35 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? I thought this was interesting. Shane Feed: Productopia: The ConsumerSearch Blog
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cement block footings
I don't know the measurements, but I've gotten some at Lowes. They are concrete, More pyramid than cube shaped, and there is a place for a 4 by 4 to drop in. No holes for securing, but the weight should keep it stable. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: Blindhandyman Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 4:08 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cement block footings I have a small seven by seven deck/porch that is attached to the back of my house. We access it via sliding glass doors. It was here when we purchased the house in 1985 but my guess is it has been there since the house was built in 1975. On the one side it is attached to the house via the end joist. The other side or side furthest from the house is supported by two four by fours, one on each corner. These were never sunk into the ground and cemented but rather just set on a cement block even with the surface of the ground. My question is do they sell any type preformed block say 1 foot cube with a pre formed cut out or attachment for a four by four? thanks Al [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] No ice cubes
This was a problem on several models when they changed the filter. First question. Do you get cold water through the dispenser? Some guys would change the filter and not purge the line which can cause an air bubble. If the cold water runs through the door, then check to make sure there isn't a separate line feeding the ice maker. The valve may be closed at the back of the fridge. Next, check the arm on the ice maker. If it is up, 90 degrees to the tray, that is in the off position. Flip it down and see if you hear water run. The water running isn't always instant after flipping the lever back down. There is a timer in place and solenoids and all that fun stuff. Check this and see if everything is as it should be. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 1:29 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] No ice cubes We own a big I think 22 or 24 cubic inch Maytag sold by Sears years ago. all seemed to be fine until this week they replaced or installed a new water filter as apparently the light came on. okay oddly enough no othr changes were made except installing a new water filter which is from Sears and it just screws on. this type of filter has been replaced different times over the years but oddly enough the ice cubes are no longer being made and dropping down into the bin. any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated. thanks Lee -- Charlie was a chemist, But Charlie is no more. For what he thought was H2O, Was H2SO4. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] another freezer question
The first thing that comes to mind here is the temp in the fridge side. Many models had a door or vent that opened and closed between the two sides. This door would close too far when the fridge side was turned all the way up, directing most of the cold air to the fridge and not allowing enough to stay in the freezer. It's a place to start. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 1:36 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] another freezer question okay it is that time of year when we plug in a old side by side in our shed . the refrigerator side seems to be fine but nothing is freezing up on the freezer side. I usually fill what I call number ten cans/ institutional sized cans I buy beans and other thngs. normally i fill a few of those cans with water and within a day I have frozen ice blocks . the machine is running now two days and the water in the freezer is very cold but not a drop of ice. I do not want to spend a dime on that old machine and would rather use it on its back as a raised garden bed or a new home for night crawlers if it will not work right. the other part of me thinks this old unit is burning up way to much electric . however the other side of the family says give it a chance. again any suggestions beside a burial would be appreciated. thanks Lee -- Charlie was a chemist, But Charlie is no more. For what he thought was H2O, Was H2SO4. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing cured tightbond 3 glue
A single edge raiser blade should peal it off fairly easily. Beyond that, try some acetone on a rag. Be careful though, this is very rough on plastic. When I used to build and repair golf clubs, acetone would actually melt a cracked ferrule back together. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 6:57 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] removing cured tightbond 3 glue I do not know when I spilled some tight bond 3 glue on my miter gauge. Is there any easy way to remove it from the metal? I really do not want to try and grind it off. It must have been there for a few months so it is quite cured. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem
There are a couple ways. Try putting a putty knife between the top and the front. You'll have to slide from the outside edge toward the center. There should be a clip on each side. When you run into it, push in on the clip and lift. Don't tug because it may not be the clip and you don't want more trouble. There may also be a series of screws on the front. Especially at the bottom. Take them out if you find them. And I've seen them with both clips and screws. In that case you can back out the lower screws and then release the clips. Once the top raises up, you might see a self tapping screw with maybe an 8 millimeter head on it. 5/16 for SAE folks. Don't take these screws all the way out. You only need to loosen them and then lift up on the front. Be careful when everything comes loose. There will be wires you probably didn't see earlier. - Original Message - From: robert Gilman To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 5:28 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem Now just how does the top unsnap in the front. Thanks Bob - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 10:27 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem As Dale said, removing the back is a waste of time. I would start with the top. It should snap free from the front and hinge towards the back. Hopefully you can rotate the drum by hand untill you can reach the pin. If you are unable to do this then removing the front and pulling the drum out is called for. This will involve removing the belt and re stringing it when reinstalling. Hope you you can get it from the top. Ron - Original Message - From: Robert Gilman To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 5:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem Hi All, I am looking for some tips on taking the dryer apart. I have a bobby pin stuck in the drum that is grinding into the drum. Can I just unscrew all the screws and get the back panel off and possible access the pin or will I need to take the top off. Thanks, Bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal
If you are worried about working with two part epoxies, it isn't hard. All big box stores carry the two part epoxy in a syringe style package. There are two tubes molded next to each other. As you push the plunger, it pushes out the right amount from each side. You will need to stir the two parts together in some sort of clean container. I keep a stack of condiment containers from McDonalds on the shelf, and use popsicle sticks for mixing. BTW, the best cleaner for getting epoxy off before it dries is rubbing alcohol. - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:36 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal So this time I had the good sense to Google glue metal to metal, instead of gorilla glue. I learned that Crazy glue will most likely do the job even though it is listed as the thrird best choice. Sotering and then a two part apoxy if you must glue were what the first recommendations were. I think the Crazy glue will do for my purposes. Jennifer _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 2:26 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal Thanks Betsy, That is all I found too. I just have a pad lock that I want to glue the screws in so it can not be opened with a screw driver instead of the key for the padlock. I am open to other suggestions, I just already have the gorilla glue and wanted it to work without a trip to the store. Jennifer rom: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:16 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal Aloha Jennifer, I went online and could only find information about using it with wood. Maybe I missed something, but... Betsy At 07:17 AM 7/6/2010, you wrote: Hey Guys, Will Gorilla glue work on metal? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill greese
The grease has been specially trained to stay off the rollers before it ever goes in the tube... It will get on the rollers as well. The thing that makes the belt turn is the tension on the roller at the open end, or the end away from the console. That roller is usually chain driven and should the belt either wear too much or the tension on the belt by the roller become too loose, then you will lose drive to the belt with or without grease. As always, different brands adjust in different ways. So I can't say for all brands. Usually there is some sort of adjusting mechanism at the end or under the open end. I had an old one I got from Sears many years ago and now I have a Nordic Track. Both used an Allen head bolt on either side and it was either tightened or loosened to make the adjustment. The key is knowing how tight to make it so you don't burn off the inside face of the belt. The manual will have directions on this for your particular model. But basically if you aren't having a problem with slipping, I wouldn't do anything. If it is slipping, remember little turns are better. Make sure there isn't a locking nut stopping any adjustment first. Then I would guess you go clockwise to tighten the tension. That won't take much turning to see if you are headed in the right direction. As I remember, my first manual said something real clear like to draw the tensioner up until you could lay your hand on the middle of the tread and still be able to touch the walking board. It was something real specific like that... It will be a feel adjustment so just go slowly and I'm sure you'll find a happy place for the tensioners. - Original Message - From: jim To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 10:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill greese yes bob i get that but how does the grease know how to stay off the rollers? jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill greese
The grease is to help it slide on the walking board. It won't cause it to slip on the rollers unless they are not tight enough.- Original Message - From: jim To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 5:22 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill greese hi, i used to have a electric tread mill from sears. along withat treadmill came some grease to put under the belt. well i got rid of that one never having used the grease. so, now i have another one it was not new when i got it. and the belts getting kind of loud. i am wondering if i put the grease on the under side of the belt how will it keep turning with out slipping on the rollers that move it? thanks for any help someone might have that owns one. Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system
When I started building decks, I was told to use a 16 penny nail as a spacer between planks. That was a uniform size and as the planks dried out, it didn't leave too much of a gap. I took the nails and drove them through pieces of scrap wood so I didn't have to hold them while I was trying to line the planks up. The wood kept the nails from falling to the ground. - Original Message - From: Jewel To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:25 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system My decking planks have about a quarter inch gap between each for air circulation. Unless you seal every join, I think that you are running a risk of them rotting as water can seep down between the planks and with them being so tightly packed together, there will be no chance of them drying out. Jewel - Original Message [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home Repair, Home Mechanics, Car Repair, and Carpentry | VisionAWARE
Is this your site Jeff? - Original Message - From: Geoff Eden To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 9:23 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Home Repair, Home Mechanics, Car Repair, and Carpentry | VisionAWARE http://www.visionaware.org/home_mechanics [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] the name of the screws with the tool in the box
I think you're talking about a Torx, they may call it a star driver. A hex head can be either a machine or sheet metal type screw which will look like a bolt, or an Allen head which has the hex on the inside of the circle. You can also look for what is called a Robertson which is the square drive. I still think better than the Phillips. Now that you are confused worse than before... - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:29 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] the name of the screws with the tool in the box well I want to go to Lowes to morrow and get a box of maybe 3 inch screws as we are putting up a replacement section of our stockade fence. what I am looking for I know we talked about before on this list. the little tool for your power screw driver comes in the box of screws. am I talking about a Hex head? thanks Lee -- Now I lay me back to sleep. The speaker's dull; the subject's deep. If he should stop before I wake, Give me a nudge for goodness' sake. -- Anonymous [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws
If you're going to be throwing away the current deck boards, then you have a few options to get the screws out. None of which are going to be easy though. First thing I'd try is take a slightly larger drill bit to the heads. They are pretty thin so you should be able to take the heads off with a drill. If that works, you should be able to pry the boards up and off the shafts of the screws. Try it on a screw near the end to start with. If it works, then you can grip the shaft with vise grips and twist them out. If drilling doesn't seem to work, try a hole saw close to the size of the screw. I think 3 quarters is probably as small as you'll find. The drill in the center will come out once the set screw is loosened. You don't have to drill all the way through the board. Just trying to make some space for those vise grips. You'' have to chisel out to the ring from the hole saw. Finally if none of the above work. set your circular saw to the same depth as the deck board. Now you can cut squares out going cross ways to the boards and then rip between the deck screws. If you make the squares small enough, you can use a wood chisel to split the wood away from the screws. Once again, you can use the vise grips and try one of those damaged screw removers that go in the drill. As far as the boards cupping, see if you can get someone to help you mark them. The growth rings on the ends of the boards should make an ark like a rainbow. If the arch curves upwards, that should be the top. Screwing them will only help to pull the arch flat. If the arch runs downwards and looks like a smile, the edges will keep wanting to pull up. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: Blindhandyman Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 6:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws Looking for some opinion before I replace the surface boards on our 12 by 16 exterior deck. I will be using the pressure treated premium decking which they refer to as a five quarter by six. The actual finished width is about 5 and a half inches. Anyway after I get done removing the old, which I may say is no small task as many of the Phillips screws are counter sunk and of course stripped. So one question is maybe somebody has some novel ideas on removing them that I have not thought of? All ideas welcome. My question on the new boards is to minimize cupping over the years do you think its over kill to use 3 deck screws per joist rather than the way it is now with 2? thanks Al [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
It's like a 3 legged Work Mate if you remember those. - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Would somebody please describe this thing and what it will do? How sturdy is it? earlier, Lenny McHugh, wrote: Yes, however I think it is time that we get this thread back on topic. I will soon have my pay docked moderator - Original Message - From: Alan Paganelli mailto:alanandsuzanne%40earthlink.netalanandsuza...@earthlink.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 8:13 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse And there's a joke in that 3 legs too but this isn't the list for that kind of joke! grin Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy mailto:intheshop%40att.netinthes...@att.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 6:28 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Had me going to until I remembered it has 3 legs. Even on my worst dates I never dated anyone with 3 legs... - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 7:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Shane, From your description I think I might have dated her once! - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 6:24 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse I don't have one, but know of someone who does. We used it the other day to secure 2sx4 studs for cutting. The jaws can open up to 3 feet. It also can fold up for storage and transport. Hope this is helpful. Shane From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 9:37 AM To: Blind Handyman List Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Does anyone have the JawHorse? It sounds pretty slick, but possibly one of those things that sounds a lot slicker than it actually is in practice? wood.toolIDay.com has it for $149 plus $6 shipping which is about 25 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. I'm thinking of asking Sofia for one for fathers day. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edud...@andrew.cmu.ed u mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturdayhttp://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahooblindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
I actually haven't seen the jaw horse either. I know it has 3 legs and a foot operated vise. But I can't help you much more than that. - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 4:17 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Never saw a work mate. earlier, Bob Kennedy, wrote: It's like a 3 legged Work Mate if you remember those. - Original Message - From: john schwery To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Would somebody please describe this thing and what it will do? How sturdy is it? earlier, Lenny McHugh, wrote: Yes, however I think it is time that we get this thread back on topic. I will soon have my pay docked moderator - Original Message - From: Alan Paganelli mailto:alanandsuzanne%40earthlink.netmailto :alanandsuzanne%40earthlink.netalanandsuza...@earthlink.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 8:13 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse And there's a joke in that 3 legs too but this isn't the list for that kind of joke! grin Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne /http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy mailto:intheshop%40att.netmailto:intheshop%40att.netinthes...@att.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 6:28 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Had me going to until I remembered it has 3 legs. Even on my worst dates I never dated anyone with 3 legs... - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 7:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Shane, From your description I think I might have dated her once! - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 6:24 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse I don't have one, but know of someone who does. We used it the other day to secure 2sx4 studs for cutting. The jaws can open up to 3 feet. It also can fold up for storage and transport. Hope this is helpful. Shane From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 9:37 AM To: Blind Handyman List Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Does anyone have the JawHorse? It sounds pretty slick, but possibly one of those things that sounds a lot slicker than it actually is in practice? wood.toolIDay.com has it for $149 plus $6 shipping which is about 25 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. I'm thinking of asking Sofia for one for fathers day. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edumailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edd...@andrew.cmu.ed u mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Jawhorse, Folding Sawhorse, Clamping Workbench | Rockwell
First thing that comes to mind when I hear: You'll save time, you'll work safer and you'll save yourself from hassle! Is I could get divorced and do the same thing... - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 9:23 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Jawhorse, Folding Sawhorse, Clamping Workbench | Rockwell The Jawhorse™ is the only workstation you'll ever need! The strong and versatile Jawhorse replaces your workbenches, your sawhorses, your clamps, your bench vises and so much more. With the Jawhorse you get a second set of hands for all your projects. You'll save time, you'll work safer and you'll save yourself from hassle! It's a powerful, hands-free clamp and sawhorse. If you can lift it, you can clamp it. The Jawhorse's powerful clamping jaws allow you to securely clamp virtually anything, so you have hands-free access to safely complete your project. You can even clamp wide items like doors or plywood thanks to the 37-inch clamping width. And with the optional extension, you'll get a full 48-inches of clamping power. It's a versatile workbench. Thanks to its flexible design, the Jawhorse lets you get your projects up and off the ground for a comfortable working height. Simply clamp an ordinary piece of plywood into the Jawhorse and you have a perfect workbench. You can even use it on the jobsite as a sturdy platform for miter saws, tile saws and more. It's a one-ton vise and machine press. Whether you're bending metal or straightening it, the Jawhorse's strength and stability allow you to be aggressive with your work. The Jawhorse is made of solid steel and has ten times the clamping power of a regular vise. It also features the industrial pressing power of a one-ton machine press. Order your Jawhorse today for just 4 easy payments of $44.44. Don't start your next project without the Rockwell Jawhorse. Get your Jawhorse today for just 4 easy payments of $44.44. Or, make a single payment of $177.76 and get a FREE 5 YEAR WARRANTY! Remember, the Jawhorse is not available in stores, so order yours online today! http://www.rockwelltoolsdirect.com/jawhorse/workbench.html Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
I'm heading to Woodcraft in a minute. Maybe they have one I can look at. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 10:36 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Does anyone have the JawHorse? It sounds pretty slick, but possibly one of those things that sounds a lot slicker than it actually is in practice? wood.toolIDay.com has it for $149 plus $6 shipping which is about 25 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. I'm thinking of asking Sofia for one for fathers day. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
Had me going to until I remembered it has 3 legs. Even on my worst dates I never dated anyone with 3 legs... - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 7:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Shane, From your description I think I might have dated her once! - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 6:24 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse I don't have one, but know of someone who does. We used it the other day to secure 2sx4 studs for cutting. The jaws can open up to 3 feet. It also can fold up for storage and transport. Hope this is helpful. Shane From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 9:37 AM To: Blind Handyman List Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Does anyone have the JawHorse? It sounds pretty slick, but possibly one of those things that sounds a lot slicker than it actually is in practice? wood.toolIDay.com has it for $149 plus $6 shipping which is about 25 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. I'm thinking of asking Sofia for one for fathers day. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options
I don't know about Ryobi and their battery nailers, or if they make one. For the air powered choices, subscribe to tooliday.com They have deals every day that will be emailed to you, or you can just visit the site. It seems there is always some kind of nail gun or compressor as a special. There are usually about 5 different items listed. Here is one of the specials from today. DeWalt D51257 Reconditioned 16 Gauge 1 1/4 Inch to 2 1/2 Inch finish Nailer The DeWalt D51257R Factory Reconditioned D51257 16-Gauge Finish Nailer will be happy to handle any job big or small. Shooting 1-inch to 2-1/2-inch 16 gauge straight collated nails, the DeWalt D51257R is sure to become your new favorite finish nailer. Features: a.. Tool-free features: adjustable belt hook, nail depth adjustment, jam clearing, 360 degree exhaust b.. Uses 1-inch to 2-1/2-inch 16 gauge straight collated nails c.. Sequential action trigger installed d.. 70-120 PSI operating pressure e.. Low profile no-mar pad f.. Trigger lock-off Includes: a.. DeWalt D51257R 16-Gauge Finish Nailer Sale Price: $54.99 - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: Blindhandyman Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 12:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options Looking for some ideas, education, etc on a subject I know little of. I might be interested in getting a light duty nail gun for some upcoming projects I'm anticipating. Here are my questions to start the thread. Are there 18 volt Ryobi battery options that would dove tail with my current selection of tools? Are there electric models or do most run on air? If the later can one get a small portable compressor that is easy to operate and move around? Most of the applications I would be doing involve things like molding, fence strips on stockade fencing etc. I don't envision doing framing etc Al [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options
I've got the 18 volt finish nailer but it is pricey. I'm still pondering over the 16 gauge model. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blindhandyman Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 2:32 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options Al, My brother-in-law was just telling me that he has mostly given up on his air driven nail guns for finishing nails. He has two DeWalt electric guns one for 16 gauge and one for 18 gauge. If that doesn't work for you, there are definitely small compressors for you to use. Mine is about the size of an upright vacuum cleaner. Lastly, there are systems where you can use a CO2 cartridge to power a nailer. It's kind of the expensive way to go, but I've considered it because the compressor is damn noisy, and a bit of a pain in the ass to drag out if you just need to shoot a couple of nails. I'll also say that if I have the compressor out, I enjoy using the nail gun for a lot of stuff. I will often tack pieces together rather than clamping them, or tack a straight edge down as a guide. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options
New it's close to $400 unless you already have the Dewalt batteries. If you have batteries from other Dewalt tools you can search for the bear tool only and save 1 to $200. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 7:20 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options Bob, Mind sharing what pricey is? Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 6:58 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options I've got the 18 volt finish nailer but it is pricey. I'm still pondering over the 16 gauge model. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blindhandyman Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 2:32 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options Al, My brother-in-law was just telling me that he has mostly given up on his air driven nail guns for finishing nails. He has two DeWalt electric guns one for 16 gauge and one for 18 gauge. If that doesn't work for you, there are definitely small compressors for you to use. Mine is about the size of an upright vacuum cleaner. Lastly, there are systems where you can use a CO2 cartridge to power a nailer. It's kind of the expensive way to go, but I've considered it because the compressor is damn noisy, and a bit of a pain in the ass to drag out if you just need to shoot a couple of nails. I'll also say that if I have the compressor out, I enjoy using the nail gun for a lot of stuff. I will often tack pieces together rather than clamping them, or tack a straight edge down as a guide. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options
Most nails come in strips with one on top of the other. Some come with plastic and some with wire holding them together. In any event, other than roofing nails, they come in long strips and the gun separates them when fired. Roofing nails come in coils for the most part. Just a big long line of nails rolled up and they go in the gun that way. The finish nailer I sent earlier is a pretty good deal, and you can pick up a small compressor for around $100 to $150. These are light enough to carry and the motors are able to run on a 15 amp breaker without popping the breaker when it restarts. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 7:32 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options Bob, For the little I would use it that would be too much but thanks for sharing. This is one reason I went with Ryobi. I've had good luck with them and the const is much less. I'll have to look into whether they have one. Another question is how do nails come for guns? Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 7:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options New it's close to $400 unless you already have the Dewalt batteries. If you have batteries from other Dewalt tools you can search for the bear tool only and save 1 to $200. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 7:20 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options Bob, Mind sharing what pricey is? Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 6:58 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options I've got the 18 volt finish nailer but it is pricey. I'm still pondering over the 16 gauge model. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blindhandyman Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 2:32 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options Al, My brother-in-law was just telling me that he has mostly given up on his air driven nail guns for finishing nails. He has two DeWalt electric guns one for 16 gauge and one for 18 gauge. If that doesn't work for you, there are definitely small compressors for you to use. Mine is about the size of an upright vacuum cleaner. Lastly, there are systems where you can use a CO2 cartridge to power a nailer. It's kind of the expensive way to go, but I've considered it because the compressor is damn noisy, and a bit of a pain in the ass to drag out if you just need to shoot a couple of nails. I'll also say that if I have the compressor out, I enjoy using the nail gun for a lot of stuff. I will often tack pieces together rather than clamping them, or tack a straight edge down as a guide. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] downloaded games help
Jaws key + J Hit enter on Options Arrow down to Voices and hit enter Hit enter on Voice adjustment Then under select a voice profile, choose Eloquence by arrowing to it but don't hit enter at this point. Tab to adjust all contexts You want that over the individual voice adjustment. Tab through and you can set your speed and pitch and so on. Enter on OK and that should set Eloquence as default. At this point you can follow the first few steps again and under adjust all contexts, you can choose your individual voices. Because I use different cursors a lot in things I do daily, I set a different voice for the PC cursor and the Jaws cursor. That way I don't lose track of which cursor is active. Good luck - Original Message - From: Blaine Deutscher To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 4:40 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] downloaded games help Hello there. I recently downloaded a few jim kitchen games and uninstalled them as they didn't work after a few times of playing. I would like to get the sappi voices off so when I do a read all with jaws key plus 2 that it willl read using the JAWS voice not the sappi voice. I know some of you computer people are going to tell me that JAWS is a sappi voice, which it is but I mean the elequence voice. if anyone knows how I can change so that JAWS is reading everything using elequence please let me know. I'm running JAWS 9 on windows XP. I would prefer to do it over the phone so if anyone of you can call in Canada tfeel free to e-mail me privately and I will send you my phone number. Talk to you all later. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] o-rings for router bits.
You won't get the bit in place with an O ring on the shaft. I think what they may have been saying is what I've done for as long as I had a router. The ideal setting for a bit is about a sixteenth from seating all the way in. I took a half inch OD O ring and dropped it in the collet and used the shaft of a bit to seat the O ring at the bottom. Now I can drop in a bit and don't have to worry about pulling it back a little and then tighten the bit while I'm holding it away from the bottom of the collet. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 10:39 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] o-rings for router bits. I just watched a Wood Smith Shop tip and it talked about using o-rings on the shaft of your router bits to keep the bit from slipping. I've not heard of this. Does anyone have experience with these? Is there any concern about the o-ring melting? No matter what you do, you are going to generate some heat when spinning a bit at 18K RPM against a piece of wood. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question
Weren't those the best? Even pushing the little piece of junk on to the plug terminal would still get you a share of voltage. I kept a piece of wood I shaped to fit in there and that insulated me. Only took a few tries. That was after a friend gave me a pair of electricians gloves. They were supposed to be insulated against shock. They must have had a hole in them somewhere because the first time I used them I got blasted. Fortunately now those are tricks you remember and pass on in any small engine classes. Here hold this while I check the spark. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 4:45 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Bob: speaking of getting blasted, I remember that a lot of the Briggs engines had to be turned off by flipping a little leaver against the spark plug. I could never remember whether the leaver was to the right or left of the plug, and almost invariably grabbed the spark plug and got a good zap. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 14:53 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Oh boy! The Fairbanks Morris magneto! What a blast they could give you. I became authorized service for each of the companies you mentioned in 76. The Kohlers were so quiet because everything they made back then was cast iron. They are related to the same people that make the bath tubs and sinks and faucets. When you went to tech school back then they knew the updates on engines were boring so they would show a slide of some lady in one of their bath tubs. That brought the class to attention... - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 3:39 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Great story Alan, thanks for posting it. Back in the day, 1970s or so, I ran a business with a tool rental component. We had a mix of engines, BS, Koehler and Wisconsin for the most part in the air-cooled department anyway. The BS engines were forever being replaced, and were twice as loud as the Koehlers were. The Wisconsins we had had a spring magneto in them, and if memory serves, some of the mechanics cursed them mightily. The Koehlers though, were quiet, and the guys that worked for me really enjoyed working on them. The Koehlers also seemed to require way less repair/replacement than the Briggs did. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 09:43 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question I never liked BS and the rest of the American engines. Not a baring or a bushing in there. Just a hardened steal crankshaft rubbing against an aluminum block. How the hell long do you think that's 'gonna last. Now you know why those things are going away. The bright-boys figured themselves right out of business. When I went through the course, it cost around 40 bucks to get a small engine tuned up. You had 5 dollars worth of parts into it so you did about an hours work if you wanted to do the thing right and walked away with $35 for your trouble. You could the job out of your garage and if you couldn't make at least 200 that weekend, you weren't trying very hard. And, for a totally blind person it's all done by feel. As it turned out, the guy who was teaching the course at Perdue was a guy who played bass with us when I was on the road. When I met him at the class, we both asked each other what the hell are you doing here! I said I'm here for the course. Whatta you here for? I'm here to teach it. He said he had been doing this all his life working at his old man's shop sense he was a kid. I wondered why the school never gave me any crap about the old blind people can't work on small engines. Don wouldn't have stood still for it. After I took and passed the course, my brother in law decided he wanted to take it as well and asked me to go with him to kind of pave the way for him. I said sure. Why not. When we walked in the place, the class was twice the size of the one I was in. Don said I'm glad your here. I need you to help me teach these guys. Are you nuts Don? I just passed the course 2 weeks ago. Oh don't worry about anything. Here's what we're gonna do. We'll split the class in half. I'll take half and you take the other half. I'll
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question
I was on a local TV show back in the 70s and I got the host of the show to do that with a chain saw. They hustled me right out when they went to a commercial... I was only in my early 20s, and that was still a funny gag to pull. And the people that wanted to know what he said when they came in the shop? - Original Message - From: Alan Paganelli To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 8:42 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question I swear this story is honest to God true. When my brother in law took the small engine course I took, I was teaching it with my friend Don. For those who don't know what a spark checker is, let me describe it and what it does. It's a round circle with set screws pointing toward the center of the circle. There is a clip on one end which clips to ground and the spark plug wire attaches to another screw. When you pull the engine starter cord, if you have spark, it should be nice and blue. For the blind, you should hear a nice sharp snapping sound as you pull the cord. If the color isn't that nice blue color, there is a week spark and the snap isn't as sharp sounding as you'd like. We were at the point during the training where the student learns that little fact of life. Mind you, these are all guys in this class so there's allot of joking around and horsing around. I had just finished explaining and telling the students they will need their spark checker. This one guy says I didn't bring mine. Is there any other way to check to see if this thing has spark? Not thinking he would do it, I said, there sure is. First, put your left foot on the shroud cover. Now, take that wire down there by the plug and hold it in your left hand. He says I got it, I said now haul ass back on that rope and tell me if it has spark. The other guys are all laughing and this guy gives the rope a mighty yank! He yells so blank blank TT and it sure does got spark! it surely does! I was more surprised it didn't knock him on his butt! I know it sure as hell would have me and has too when I've gotten my hand to close to the spark wire wile the engine's running. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: William Stephan wstep...@everestkc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 1:45 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Bob: speaking of getting blasted, I remember that a lot of the Briggs engines had to be turned off by flipping a little leaver against the spark plug. I could never remember whether the leaver was to the right or left of the plug, and almost invariably grabbed the spark plug and got a good zap. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 14:53 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Oh boy! The Fairbanks Morris magneto! What a blast they could give you. I became authorized service for each of the companies you mentioned in 76. The Kohlers were so quiet because everything they made back then was cast iron. They are related to the same people that make the bath tubs and sinks and faucets. When you went to tech school back then they knew the updates on engines were boring so they would show a slide of some lady in one of their bath tubs. That brought the class to attention... - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 3:39 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Great story Alan, thanks for posting it. Back in the day, 1970s or so, I ran a business with a tool rental component. We had a mix of engines, BS, Koehler and Wisconsin for the most part in the air-cooled department anyway. The BS engines were forever being replaced, and were twice as loud as the Koehlers were. The Wisconsins we had had a spring magneto in them, and if memory serves, some of the mechanics cursed them mightily. The Koehlers though, were quiet, and the guys that worked for me really enjoyed working on them. The Koehlers also seemed to require way less repair/replacement than the Briggs did. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question
I always remove the seat since they come as a set. They aren't a matched set however. Instead of folding the fuel line, you can stick a quarter inch bolt in the line and that will plug it off. There are fuel shut offs available as well that you can put in the line. I like them so I can put them up for winter without having fuel in the carb all year long. I close the shut off and then run the engine until it's out of gas. The kit should be under $5 for a needle and seat. I'm out of touch with pricing now so I don't know how much more a carb kit runs. But that will have the ring that seals the float bowl to the carb. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 11:18 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question OK, I figured it might be called a needle valve. I have run into trouble with them decades ago on marine outboard motors, I suppose the oil, quart to five gallons back when I used to play with them, maybe as you say, perishing rubber from the hoses. I'll have to try and get my hands on a kit I suppose. One other question. Do I remove the original seat or can I leave it? I expect you are right about the rubber hose. The bowl was full of crud when I removed it. I don't remember ever seeing crap like that in one like that before now. That little spring clip wasn't attached, I suspect it was interfering with the needle moving up into the seat but there may well be debris in there as well. This hose doesn't have a shut-off either and I would like to find one to install. I have been folding the hose and stuffing it between the tank and the engine while working on it to keep the fuel from running through. Thanks for this, I'll go in search of spare parts. Dale Leavens. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 10:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question It's called a needle. It closes fuel off by the float pushing it into a seat. Thus the name I'm sure you've heard together, needle and seat. You'll have to buy them as a pair. The spring can drive you crazy. But before that happens, know it will work well without the hassle of the spring clip. What you will want to do when you get a new one is to install the seat, on that engine it should be a round O ring looking piece kind of squared off at the shoulders. You can install it by setting it in the opening, and use either a round punch, or the shank end of a drill bit to push it in place. Try not to use a hammer to set it, there is a small shoulder in the opening and you can push right past it using a hammer. Next, set the needle in the new seat and then run the pin through the back of the float. When that is done, feel across what will now be the bottom edge, normally the top edge of the float. Make sure that edge is parallel to the body of the carb. If it sits low pointed toward the float bowl, or up at you in this case, it can starve the engine. If it sits high, pointed toward the body of the carb, it can flood. That's all there is to it. While you have it apart, spray some carburetor cleaner in the area to wash out any dirt or garbage that has found it's way in. You may also consider replacing any of the quarter inch fuel line. Often times as they get older the insides will break down and bits of the line can lodge in the seat area causing it to flood. Let me know if this doesn't work. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 9:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Good evening, I have a wood chipper and leaf shredder powered by a horizontal four stroke Tecumseh engine. The damn engine has given me a lot of grief over the years, trouble starting after periods of inactivity. Oddly, this year it has behaved fairly well. Then it began leaking fuel around the top of the sediment bowl. The problem appears to be the little pin like valve arrangement which should close off the fuel flow when the float raises and pushes the little beggar into the orifice. Well I disassembled it, there is a little spring clip which I was trying to figure out where it connects when I lost the little pin like valve closer in the grass. I need to know what this little bad boy is called so I can see if I can chase down a new one. It is a 6 or 8 sided pin about half an inch long I suppose beveled to a point at one end and with a ring milled out very near the other end where this little spring wire clip snaps onto it. It sits on top of the float so, when the float is up it pushes firmly into the fuel port from the fuel tank. Those of you with mechanical training may know what this little device is called. Thanks for this. Dale
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question
You can find parts online now but Dale lives in Canada so that is a bit harder to get parts there. I bet the Canadian Tire stores can find tune up parts. - Original Message - From: Alan Paganelli To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 10:52 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question They use to be something like 6 bucks if memory serves correctly but finding one might not be easy. I don't even have anything around here with the exception of a weed eater and when that quits, we pitch it and get a new one and like I said, I took the course in 1980 so anything I know is 30 years old. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 3:51 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question I always remove the seat since they come as a set. They aren't a matched set however. Instead of folding the fuel line, you can stick a quarter inch bolt in the line and that will plug it off. There are fuel shut offs available as well that you can put in the line. I like them so I can put them up for winter without having fuel in the carb all year long. I close the shut off and then run the engine until it's out of gas. The kit should be under $5 for a needle and seat. I'm out of touch with pricing now so I don't know how much more a carb kit runs. But that will have the ring that seals the float bowl to the carb. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 11:18 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question OK, I figured it might be called a needle valve. I have run into trouble with them decades ago on marine outboard motors, I suppose the oil, quart to five gallons back when I used to play with them, maybe as you say, perishing rubber from the hoses. I'll have to try and get my hands on a kit I suppose. One other question. Do I remove the original seat or can I leave it? I expect you are right about the rubber hose. The bowl was full of crud when I removed it. I don't remember ever seeing crap like that in one like that before now. That little spring clip wasn't attached, I suspect it was interfering with the needle moving up into the seat but there may well be debris in there as well. This hose doesn't have a shut-off either and I would like to find one to install. I have been folding the hose and stuffing it between the tank and the engine while working on it to keep the fuel from running through. Thanks for this, I'll go in search of spare parts. Dale Leavens. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 10:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question It's called a needle. It closes fuel off by the float pushing it into a seat. Thus the name I'm sure you've heard together, needle and seat. You'll have to buy them as a pair. The spring can drive you crazy. But before that happens, know it will work well without the hassle of the spring clip. What you will want to do when you get a new one is to install the seat, on that engine it should be a round O ring looking piece kind of squared off at the shoulders. You can install it by setting it in the opening, and use either a round punch, or the shank end of a drill bit to push it in place. Try not to use a hammer to set it, there is a small shoulder in the opening and you can push right past it using a hammer. Next, set the needle in the new seat and then run the pin through the back of the float. When that is done, feel across what will now be the bottom edge, normally the top edge of the float. Make sure that edge is parallel to the body of the carb. If it sits low pointed toward the float bowl, or up at you in this case, it can starve the engine. If it sits high, pointed toward the body of the carb, it can flood. That's all there is to it. While you have it apart, spray some carburetor cleaner in the area to wash out any dirt or garbage that has found it's way in. You may also consider replacing any of the quarter inch fuel line. Often times as they get older the insides will break down and bits of the line can lodge in the seat area causing it to flood. Let me know if this doesn't work
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question
Oh boy! The Fairbanks Morris magneto! What a blast they could give you. I became authorized service for each of the companies you mentioned in 76. The Kohlers were so quiet because everything they made back then was cast iron. They are related to the same people that make the bath tubs and sinks and faucets. When you went to tech school back then they knew the updates on engines were boring so they would show a slide of some lady in one of their bath tubs. That brought the class to attention... - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 3:39 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Great story Alan, thanks for posting it. Back in the day, 1970s or so, I ran a business with a tool rental component. We had a mix of engines, BS, Koehler and Wisconsin for the most part in the air-cooled department anyway. The BS engines were forever being replaced, and were twice as loud as the Koehlers were. The Wisconsins we had had a spring magneto in them, and if memory serves, some of the mechanics cursed them mightily. The Koehlers though, were quiet, and the guys that worked for me really enjoyed working on them. The Koehlers also seemed to require way less repair/replacement than the Briggs did. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 09:43 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question I never liked BS and the rest of the American engines. Not a baring or a bushing in there. Just a hardened steal crankshaft rubbing against an aluminum block. How the hell long do you think that's 'gonna last. Now you know why those things are going away. The bright-boys figured themselves right out of business. When I went through the course, it cost around 40 bucks to get a small engine tuned up. You had 5 dollars worth of parts into it so you did about an hours work if you wanted to do the thing right and walked away with $35 for your trouble. You could the job out of your garage and if you couldn't make at least 200 that weekend, you weren't trying very hard. And, for a totally blind person it's all done by feel. As it turned out, the guy who was teaching the course at Perdue was a guy who played bass with us when I was on the road. When I met him at the class, we both asked each other what the hell are you doing here! I said I'm here for the course. Whatta you here for? I'm here to teach it. He said he had been doing this all his life working at his old man's shop sense he was a kid. I wondered why the school never gave me any crap about the old blind people can't work on small engines. Don wouldn't have stood still for it. After I took and passed the course, my brother in law decided he wanted to take it as well and asked me to go with him to kind of pave the way for him. I said sure. Why not. When we walked in the place, the class was twice the size of the one I was in. Don said I'm glad your here. I need you to help me teach these guys. Are you nuts Don? I just passed the course 2 weeks ago. Oh don't worry about anything. Here's what we're gonna do. We'll split the class in half. I'll take half and you take the other half. I'll be doing the teaching with my half. You show your guys the same thing I'm showing my guys. I'll still be walking around helping people who need it so you'll be fine and think of it this way. We learn by doing and by doing it all over again, it'll make you better at it. So, after taking the course, I wound up teaching it 2 weeks later. When Don introduced me to the class he said this guy was on the road with us. He might be totally blind but he knows his business. He is a graduate of this course and so, he'll be the assistant instructor. To my surprise, nobody thought anything about me being blind and some students insisted on calling me prof. Pretty weird! Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net mailto:dleavens%40puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 10:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Well therein lies the problem. I don't have a dealer that I know of anywhere near here. It is my understanding that they have about discontinued making Tecumseh engines altogether although there are loads of
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question
It's called a needle. It closes fuel off by the float pushing it into a seat. Thus the name I'm sure you've heard together, needle and seat. You'll have to buy them as a pair. The spring can drive you crazy. But before that happens, know it will work well without the hassle of the spring clip. What you will want to do when you get a new one is to install the seat, on that engine it should be a round O ring looking piece kind of squared off at the shoulders. You can install it by setting it in the opening, and use either a round punch, or the shank end of a drill bit to push it in place. Try not to use a hammer to set it, there is a small shoulder in the opening and you can push right past it using a hammer. Next, set the needle in the new seat and then run the pin through the back of the float. When that is done, feel across what will now be the bottom edge, normally the top edge of the float. Make sure that edge is parallel to the body of the carb. If it sits low pointed toward the float bowl, or up at you in this case, it can starve the engine. If it sits high, pointed toward the body of the carb, it can flood. That's all there is to it. While you have it apart, spray some carburetor cleaner in the area to wash out any dirt or garbage that has found it's way in. You may also consider replacing any of the quarter inch fuel line. Often times as they get older the insides will break down and bits of the line can lodge in the seat area causing it to flood. Let me know if this doesn't work. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 9:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Good evening, I have a wood chipper and leaf shredder powered by a horizontal four stroke Tecumseh engine. The damn engine has given me a lot of grief over the years, trouble starting after periods of inactivity. Oddly, this year it has behaved fairly well. Then it began leaking fuel around the top of the sediment bowl. The problem appears to be the little pin like valve arrangement which should close off the fuel flow when the float raises and pushes the little beggar into the orifice. Well I disassembled it, there is a little spring clip which I was trying to figure out where it connects when I lost the little pin like valve closer in the grass. I need to know what this little bad boy is called so I can see if I can chase down a new one. It is a 6 or 8 sided pin about half an inch long I suppose beveled to a point at one end and with a ring milled out very near the other end where this little spring wire clip snaps onto it. It sits on top of the float so, when the float is up it pushes firmly into the fuel port from the fuel tank. Those of you with mechanical training may know what this little device is called. Thanks for this. Dale leavens. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag dishwasher
Love stories like this. It's amazing how many repair terrorists are out there. - Original Message - From: Alan Paganelli alanandsuza...@earthlink.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 5:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag dishwasher Several years ago our dish washer gave up the ghost. It was probably 20 years old too. We were going to get somebody out here to have a look at it. The guy quoted us a price of around 300 bucks give or take. I said for that kind of money I'll just buy another one. This guy then says it would cost you about half this price to have somebody put it in for you. I said how hard can it be to install a dish washer. You have a supply line off the hot water line, and a sewer line. This guy says something about codes and yadda-yadda-yadda. That's when I decided to do it myself. After the guy left I took the under the counter dish washer out. There were only 2 small Philips screws holding it under the counter. When I removed those, it just rolled out as slick as snot. There was a screw on fitting holding the hot water supply line in place and a standard 3 prong electrical cord which plugged into a switched wall outlet in the compartment. When I turned off the hot water with the shut-off valve under the sink,and unplugged the dish washer, I just rolled it out of the way and outside onto the patio. My wife measured the inside dimensions of the compartment as well as those of the old unit. Then we went shopping for a new unit. We found one that was pretty much like the one that was in there for around 250 dollars. We got it home and unpacked it outside on the patio and lifted it up and put it down in the laundry room where I rolled it up to the compartment. After connecting the supply line to the new dish washer and plugging it in to the switched outlet, I rolled it all the way back in and placed 2 new screws under the counter top. I then turned the hot water back on under the sink and gave it a test wash with no dishes inside to well, wash the new dish washer. According to my wife, your not going to just put a load of my dishes in that thing with out washing it out first are you? Um, I wouldn't dream of it my dear. Uh-huh she said.grin It's probably been running now for 3 or 4 years and haven't had problem one yet. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 2:15 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag dishwasher Well, I did make the wrong decision. It was repaired today. While the guy was here he pointed out that something was wrong with the handle. He took the door apart and as he thought the top panel mounting pins were broke, Not all but two of the four. If we do not get it fixed a few more parts will need to be replaced. This part installed will be about $175. If I had any idea of that I would have taken the $150 offer towards a new machine. The guy got beat up today on the Maytag jokes. I reminded him about the old commercials where the Maytag repairman was bored. He is repairing ten dishwashers today. He did give Karen one tip that is probably true for all dishwashers. When you open the door first push in before unlatching. This takes pressure off of the plastic parts inside. Also do not close it when you empty, just push the door up and do not latch. Again this takes wear off of the parts and also does not put any creases into the gasket. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5183 (20100608) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
Re: [BlindHandyMan] picnic table matterials
You can Google those and find them online. There are several metal suppliers I deal with for a variety of different wants. One tip I can share. Watch for places that don't have a minimum order. That will save you a bunch. - Original Message - From: Howard Traxler To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 2:06 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] picnic table matterials Does anyone know where one can buy those hollow aluminum 2 by 4's that modern picnic tables are made of? Then, of course, the brackets to hold them together and other necessary hardware? Maybe some are made of plastic? Thanks. Howard - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 9:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Split mini Bob, How much insulation is required on the lines running from the compressor to the chillers? More accurately, I guess, how bad are the losses between the compressor and chillers? Obviously, there are a lot of variables, like how far apart, and are you running them through the hot attic verses a cool basement. One concern I have is that if I get a professional installation, they will just run the lines on the outside of my house, where I would run the lines inside the walls. How likely is a leak in these lines? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Remove Water Ring Stains on Fine Wood Furniture eHow.com.htm
Never heard that one before. It depends on the color of the ring. The lighter colored rings can often be removed by putting a towel or piece of thicker material over the ring and running over the area with a clothes iron. The iron should be on a fairly low setting and has to be moved back and forth quickly. Keep checking on the progress. Unfortunately, this doesn't work well for totals working alone. You will need sighted help to find the ring and then to watch the progress. Another trick I've done with darker rings is to use automotive rubbing compound. Don't get real rough with rubbing, but a firm circular motion will eventually remove the ring or rings from a tabletop. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: handyman-blind Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 10:53 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How to Remove Water Ring Stains on Fine Wood Furniture eHow.com.htm How to Remove Water Ring Stains on Fine Wood Furniture | eHow.comHas anyone used this procedure? The other night I had a stemmed glass with ice and some white wine. The glass was sweating and left a ring on one of the tables. Karen was going to purchase a guardsman water ring removal system and I found this information. From ehow.com water rings on fine wood furniture How to Remove Water Ring Stains on Fine Wood Furniture Who knew - the wonder's of mayonnaise - full flavor and all the fat please - easily removes water rings on your good furniture - we have used this trick for years - and it really works fantastically...no need to re-stain your grandmother's antiques... Difficulty: Easy Instructions Things You'll Need: a.. full fat mayonnaise - 2 tablespoons b.. couple of paper towels c.. 6-12 hours wait time 1.. Step 1 Locate ring from leaving your favorite ice tea or other cold drink that has now left a water mark on your Grandmother's passed down antique table top. Grab full fat mayonnaise (miracle whip OK too here folks) and spread 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise covering water ring like you would a BLT sandwich. 2.. Step 2 Gently place paper towel over water ring and slabbed on mayo - it's more to remind you that the mayonnaise is there than anything else while keeping the area moist. 3.. Step 3 We normally leave the mayonnaise on overnight, but by 6 hours, wipe clean and voila, water ring is removed. 4.. Step 4 Why does this work, you ask? The fat in the mayonnaise gently gets reabsorbed into the wax in the wood thereby removing water ring mark and leaving you and your favorite antique table top looking fantastic... This is great in the summer when people forget to use coasters under their iced drinks... __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5175 (20100605) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5175 (20100605) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line
I would bet they are the older clay drain lines. It isn't unusual for roots to break through the pipes, and eventually they will need replacing. I've heard all kinds of home remedies if you will for keeping drain lines open but can't vouch for any of them. - Original Message - From: Steve Shannon Cook To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 6:07 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line Hi All, I have a co-worker that had to have some water lines coming in to her home repaired because of roots growing in to the water lines. They had a friend to tell her that if you pour a box of salt down the drain every month, this will prevent this from happening. Has anyone ever heard of this? Thanks in advance! Steve Shannon Cook Today I married my best friend. The one that I laugh with, live for, love. October 11, 2003 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line
I'm hoping they aren't talking about the incoming line. That is under a good bit of pressure and you'll have a sink hole from hell in your yard... - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 8:31 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line If it is the main water line coming into the house, you can only fix it. Anything that you would dump down the drain would kill the roots in the sewer line. You can't dump anything down the incoming water line, it don't work like that. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] sliding glass door
It shouldn't be that hard to take out of the track. What I don't know is how hard it will be to flip it around. Things to think about would be is the lock going to end up on the outside? The handles could be backward. What it sounds like is the doors may be backwards and the sliding door may be in the wrong track. If that is the case, it isn't a big deal. The doors often have screws on the bottom side edges that allow the wheels to raise or lower. You will need to retract them completely and tighten the screws again to hold them there. Next you should be able to lift the door and tilt it out of the track at the bottom and the top will follow. Do the same with the other door. You may be able to reverse the stationary door and the sliding door without having to do anything else. Just reinstall them with the stationary door on the outside and the slider inside. Set the wheels again so they are tight and you'll be done. Good luck - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 6:00 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sliding glass door Hey Again, Ray's post reminded me about something else I have been meaning to ask. The sliding glass door on the back of my house is in backwards. It was this way when we bought the house and I do not know why anyone thought it was a good idea. Anyway, the track where you can normally put something down to block the door from opening is on the outside and you can just lift it right out from outside. I have a really high fence and a big dog, so I am not worried about someone breaking in that way, but it also puts the door in a bad place for the flow of traffic. How hard might it be to just take the door out of the frame and flip it around? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block
I know a lot of people like the cooktop stoves, smooth top as you call it, but I don't care for them. Before you ever buy one, check the price of replacements. When I dispatched for Sears, they sold anywhere from $450 to over $1000. That is just the top, not the oven too. Why do you need to replace it? Drop a pan on one and watch what happens. I ordered replacements everyday there. - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 8:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block If I ever get to remodel the kitchen I will probably go for gas also. Though I am tempted by the smooth topped ones because of the ease of clean up. My house has gas and electric, but someone put in electric appliances in the kitchen for some reason. Jennifer - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 6:51 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block I am guessing these burners are the easy to unplug and remove for cleaning. Great idea for cleaning , electrically it sucks. I spent 27 years actively in the electrical maintance field and electric stoves were a real pain. The hard wired burners are the best and the ones called monotube that are fastened in and then hinge up are the best way to go. Of course converting you stove would cost a minimum of $100 just for the burners. I have always bought gas stoves for my personal use and always will. Sorry not much real help. Ron - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 4:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block Hello Everybody, This is about my stove top. The elements are not setting into the terminal block correctly. I can not get them in myself a lot of the time, and when they are in it does not take much to bump them loose. Does the whole terminal block have to be replaced or is there maybe some kind of gasket that is just needing to be replaced? Any other trouble shooting thoughts on what this is? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block
That's what I mean. It's cheaper to buy a whole new unit in many cases. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block Wow, I must have been lucky when I bought mine. I paid $600 for mine and it is a complete stove. I didn't know that dropping a pan on it would crack the top. Betsy At 02:10 PM 5/27/2010, you wrote: I know a lot of people like the cooktop stoves, smooth top as you call it, but I don't care for them. Before you ever buy one, check the price of replacements. When I dispatched for Sears, they sold anywhere from $450 to over $1000. That is just the top, not the oven too. Why do you need to replace it? Drop a pan on one and watch what happens. I ordered replacements everyday there. - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 8:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block If I ever get to remodel the kitchen I will probably go for gas also. Though I am tempted by the smooth topped ones because of the ease of clean up. My house has gas and electric, but someone put in electric appliances in the kitchen for some reason. Jennifer - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 6:51 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block I am guessing these burners are the easy to unplug and remove for cleaning. Great idea for cleaning , electrically it sucks. I spent 27 years actively in the electrical maintance field and electric stoves were a real pain. The hard wired burners are the best and the ones called monotube that are fastened in and then hinge up are the best way to go. Of course converting you stove would cost a minimum of $100 just for the burners. I have always bought gas stoves for my personal use and always will. Sorry not much real help. Ron - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 4:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block Hello Everybody, This is about my stove top. The elements are not setting into the terminal block correctly. I can not get them in myself a lot of the time, and when they are in it does not take much to bump them loose. Does the whole terminal block have to be replaced or is there maybe some kind of gasket that is just needing to be replaced? Any other trouble shooting thoughts on what this is? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve
Home Depot sells the Shark Bights. I have not had a problem with them yet. I just replaced the shower mixer and faucet Saturday. The closest shut off was under the house, and the shower was on the 2nd floor. As I was rushed for time, I didn't want to solder 2 new shut offs in a very confined area. I went to Lowes since it is closer to the house. This store didn't stock their brand, Gator Bights, with a shut off. I picked up 2 Shark Bights for half inch copper and had them in place in less than 5 minutes. The best test I know is to turn the water on and watch for leaks. Not a one... So I continue to give them my best rating for what it's worth. I can't talk about Pecs since I haven't done any yet. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: Blindhandyman Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:09 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve Just called my local hardware store as I need to pick up a shut off valve to go in half inch copper line. I believe what I want is referred to as a gate valve (inside totally retracts to give full unrestricted flow) correct? I asked if they had these so I could use the shark bite fittings. They said they had Pex and it was the same. Since I've read about both but never used either are these the same or interchangeable? Is there a special tool I'll need to have on hand to remove should I want to? Last question: Do you feel the shark bite or Pex are as reliable as compression fittings? thanks Al [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.
Well you can pretend the stairway is an open plane door and you can ... um what would you call diving into a basement. Not sky diving of course but you know how to break the fall... - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 10:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs. I finished the basement floor project, including building the trap door to access the central drain. The floor ain't pretty, just sheets of O S B, but it seems quite sturdy. As part of putting down the new floor, I ripped out the basement stairs, which had been pretty seriously compromised by termites. This weekend I started building the new stairs. Instead of cutting the saw tooth stringers, much too tedious, I am just using 2X12s with the treads and risers sandwiched between them. A lot simpler, but never-the-less, pretty darn hard to cut those angles exactly right. The big pain is just making sure the measurements are as exact as you can get. Cutting off the ends of the 2X12 to get the angles for the upper and lower ends took a while. I can easily calculate that I needed a 43.5 degree angle but being able to measure out everything to cut that angle was frustrating. Being off a 16th doesn't seem like much until you get twelve feet away, and suddenly you're an inch off from where you want to be. Not to mention that the header I was resting the top of the stringer against, was not even close to plumb, so if I wanted the stringer to rest nice and flush against it, I had to re-cut it at a completely different angle. I got the stringers cut and mounted, but had to leave half way through today, so one more week without steps I guess. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a questionfor you car guies
My first choice would be to check the fuses. I'm a start at the end and work backwards kind of guy. So I would get a voltage tester, I made mine buzz instead of light up. If you can't see the wiper motor, you'll probably have to pull some of the cowl out of the way. I don't know all of the terms for cars on your side of the ocean... But the cowl would be at the back of the bonnet I believe you call it. What you will need to do is turn power to the wipers on and then test for voltage in the clip that plugs into the motor. If there isn't power, look for a fuse. If there is power, on this side of the ocean we say Houston? We have a problem. A couple things you can try. The wiper motor will have a ball crank on it. There is usually a split bushing that fits over this crank. You can take the nuts off and pull the arm away that connects to the crank. Once it is off, see if the wipers move fairly easily by hand. If you have to put some real effort into moving the wipers, the motor is probably burned out and will need replacing. If they move easily, see if the motor will run with the crank arm off. This should all depend on if you have power or not. If the arms moved stiff, that can blow a fuse. This will give you a direction to head in. - Original Message - From: Carl To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 12:00 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a questionfor you car guies my muthers windscrean wipers hav stoped working. how can i fix them i carn't seem to get axces to the wiper motor i'm in the north east of the uk you can get me on skype with carlf16 or email carl...@googlemail.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] My conclusions about milky color in polyurathane
The only thing I can think of that may have made it work would have been to apply a seal coat of clear shellac over the stain and then cover with the poly. A lot of extra work just to combine the two. But that is live and learn. At least you were able to come to a workable conclusion. - Original Message - From: Tom Vos To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 10:57 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] My conclusions about milky color in polyurathane A few weeks ago I wrote about the trouble I was having with milky streaks in the polyurethane I was putting on a dresser. After several rounds of this my wife was almost afraid to tell me she could see more streaks. I had put a water base stain on the dresser. Everything I read told me I could put polyurethane over water base stains. And yes, the stain had dried for several days before I put the polyurethane on. The curious thing is that my wife only saw the milky streaks on the horizontal surfaces. My solution finally, was to coat this project with polycrylic, which is a water base finish. It turned out very good. A couple weeks later I put polyurethane over oil base stain, and had no trouble at all. My conclusion is that, despite what I've read, I will never put polyurethane over a water base stain again. Now, I'm waiting to hear how many of you have put polyurethane over water base stain without having the trouble I did. Blessings, Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
Does the area stay dry? You can always put in a wooden floor, I'd use treated lumber for the frame work, and a layer of half inch plywood. Then you can put any surface on top of the ply you want. - Original Message - From: Tom Vos To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 7:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor Are there any alternatives for a basement floor other than concrete? We have a room in the basement with a dirt floor. It's not very usable that way, but to get concrete down there will be tough. There are no windows, so concrete would have to be hauled through the entry and kitchen and down the stairs. Or we could carry bags of Redi Mix, but it's going to take a whale of a lot of bags to do the room. It's only about 12 feet square, but that's a lot of lugging. Any ideas? Blessings, Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] SoniCrafter tool.
I've seen the Fein multimaster demonstrated before and this is supposed to be similar. The patent ran out on the Fein tool and now everyone is selling something similar. Both Bosch and Dremel sell a version as well for about the same price. While Fein is still around $400. I just haven't found a need to do any of the things they advertise. But the minute I find myself needing to remove one single ceramic tile or vibrate my way through a door jam, I'll pick one up... - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 8:44 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] SoniCrafter tool. ToolIday has a Rockwell RK5100K SoniCrafter for sale today. This is one of these multi-tools that uses high frequency oscilation to perform everything from sanding, to cutting and grinding of everything including wood, metal, plastic, masonry, blah blah blah. I think it restores your hairline and increases your virility as well. For all I know, it picks up your dirty socks and puts them in the hamper for you. Anyway, has anyone ever used one of these things? Is it the case of it does everything poorly rather than doing one thing well? Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] using an air nailer and an air compressor
That is a good routine for compressor maintenance. I don't drain it every time I use it, but that is sure better than never doing it. Leaving the condensation in the compressor will let the level of water rise until it begins to mix with the compressed air and eventually the tools will begin to corrode inside. If you have ever looked at a body shop, the compressor there will have a series of water separators built into the lines. Starting at the compressor and depending on the amount of trouble they have with moisture, there may be one at each work station. Certainly inside the spray booth. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 6:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] using an air nailer and an air compressor Hi, do I take it you don't drain the condensation out of the compressor? I have been doing this every time I turn it off. Not sure if this is necessary but a lot of water comes out at times. Max. On 10/05/2010 08:15, Phil Parr wrote: I have had an air compressor for a while now and never had any trouble using my nail guns. I have three, a framing gun what they call a brad gun and a middle size one. If the gun is not shooting hard enough tern up the pressure some. I also have many other pneumatic tools and just connect them and go. In fact, when I built my shop I ran p v c pipe thru the wall and put my compressor in another room so it wouldn't be so noisy. I just have a switch to tern it on and off in the shop, I never see the regulator at all. Phil Parr. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] using an air nailer and an air compressor
I close it again or I'll start the compressor and forget it's open. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 5:22 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] using an air nailer and an air compressor I do have a filter in the line about 2meters after the Gage to try and lower the amount of moisture getting to the tools. do you leave the valve open after draining the tank, or do you re tighten it after the tank has drained? Max. On 10/05/2010 18:52, Bob Kennedy wrote: That is a good routine for compressor maintenance. I don't drain it every time I use it, but that is sure better than never doing it. Leaving the condensation in the compressor will let the level of water rise until it begins to mix with the compressed air and eventually the tools will begin to corrode inside. If you have ever looked at a body shop, the compressor there will have a series of water separators built into the lines. Starting at the compressor and depending on the amount of trouble they have with moisture, there may be one at each work station. Certainly inside the spray booth. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 6:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] using an air nailer and an air compressor Hi, do I take it you don't drain the condensation out of the compressor? I have been doing this every time I turn it off. Not sure if this is necessary but a lot of water comes out at times. Max. On 10/05/2010 08:15, Phil Parr wrote: I have had an air compressor for a while now and never had any trouble using my nail guns. I have three, a framing gun what they call a brad gun and a middle size one. If the gun is not shooting hard enough tern up the pressure some. I also have many other pneumatic tools and just connect them and go. In fact, when I built my shop I ran p v c pipe thru the wall and put my compressor in another room so it wouldn't be so noisy. I just have a switch to tern it on and off in the shop, I never see the regulator at all. Phil Parr. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] using an air nailer and an air compressor
I have one for roofing, one for framing, 2 palm nailers and a brad and stapler. The pressure range for most is between 70 and 120 so you have a lot of range to play in. Basically you can have a sighted friend set your output on the compressor one time and it should stay there. Some people seem to have problems with a palm nailer, but I can look right at a welder when I run it and not see the light from the arc. So yes, a total can work a nailer. - Original Message - From: Blaine Deutscher To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 6:17 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] using an air nailer and an air compressor Hello there. When I took construction in high school we used air nailers. I was just wondering if anyone who was totaly blind has used one with out sighted assistance? If you have how do you know how much pressure the compressor is at? I'd like to get one but am not sure how to tell what the pressure gage is at. If anyone can help that would be great. Blaine [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
You might be able to use trailer tie downs to keep it from blowing over. That would help no matter which kind you decide on. A trailer tie down looks like a spring. It's steel twisted into a coil and you use a motor to twist it into the ground. I say a motor because they are 4 or 5 feet long and that's a lot of twisting. Once it is in the ground, the object of choice, usually a mobile home, is attached to the top end. In order to blow your gazebo over, it would have to pull the length of coiled steel back out of the ground. One on each corner and it isn't going anywhere. Of course the top might peal off, but the bottom will stay put... - Original Message - From: Howard Traxler To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 2:16 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s) Does anyone know of a easy-to-build gazebo or a kit that's pretty durable? We have an inexpensive one that seems to blow over any time we have a wind. I'd like to (probably) purchase one that's a bit stronger. Thanks for any ideas. Howard [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy
Sure sounds like a wife. hahaha - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 3:08 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy Is this a woman's view. Wondering minds want to know. smiling, RJ - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 12:19 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy Ok, so here is the big question. If it was so easy to check and repair, why did it take you so long to do it? When she first complained about the water pressure you could have taken the time to check it right then. You could have been the hero who fixed the water instead of the guy who ignored your wife. Just saying... Jennifer - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 6:13 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy yeah, you're right. Great story. On Sun, 2 May 2010, Bill Gallik wrote: Spiro wrote: never show how easy it is, they don't. But what you do when you need their eyeballs to help get the job done? Reminds me of a story my Grandfather Visocky used to tell me about his father (my great-grandfather Visocky). Seems that my Great-Grandfather Visocky was a major in the Austrian Imperial Army and being a commissioned officer naturally was able to read. From the story, one of Major Visocky's troops had gotten a letter from his girlfriend or wife -- at any rate it was a feminine significant other of some sort. Since this trooper could not himself read he approached my Great-Grandfather with the following request, Sir, would you please read this letter to me? And please don't listen? Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - With most men, unbelief in one thing springs from blind belief in another. - German Aphorist, Georg Christoph Lichtenberg (1742 - 1799) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell
The voltage should be 12 volts DC. I don't know which terminals are live or ground though. You can tape over the bear wires to the point you only have a bit more than the hook at the ends. Then have someone work the door bell, or tape a couple coins to the button to keep it live. Then you can make the individual contacts and see which way works. - Original Message - From: Art Rizzino To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 8:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell I would like guidance diagnosing my house two door doorbell setup. The wiring always looked shaky to me. Today I was coming down out of the attic and my shirt got caught on the door bell wires and pulled them apart. Well I guess this is the time to figure out the system and make better connections than twisting wires together and let exposed bear wires dangle. This is how it was when we bought the house. The front door you hear two tones and the side door there is one tone. I assume each door's button should have two wires coming from it. The doorbell box has four wires in two pairs of two wires. There are three terminals in the doorbell box, the center terminal has two wires one from each set. What is the center terminal, negative or positive? What might be the voltage required to activate one of the doorbells? There is what I assume is an AC to DC transformer included in the system. This little box only has two terminals on it, is this a typically a steady DC voltage supply? What might be the correct way to connect the wires for such a system? Ideas, guidance and suggestions welcome. Thanks. Art [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy
I don't remember reading that, but often resemble it... - Original Message - From: Terry Klarich To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 1:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy On Fri, 30 Apr 2010 20:32:47 -0400you write: Today, after months of my wife saying the water pressure in the house is a trickle. Kept telling her that on well water that is as good as it gets. Today she went to the grandkid soccer game and I decided after all these months she was right, but I am unable to read the pressure gauge, so I had to wait until she came home to read the thing. Got out my socket wrenches and turn up the pressure from 40 PSI to 60 PSI and when she seen how simple it was, I was in trouble. But after she takes her shower, maybe I will be forgiven. smile Well, it is a well known fact that a man is not complete until he is married; then, he is finished. Seems like I read that somewhere. :) Terry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy
Guess you know if the wife ain't happy, ain't nobody gonna be happy... - Original Message - From: RJ rjf...@verizon.net To: handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 8:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy Today, after months of my wife saying the water pressure in the house is a trickle. Kept telling her that on well water that is as good as it gets. Today she went to the grandkid soccer game and I decided after all these months she was right, but I am unable to read the pressure gauge, so I had to wait until she came home to read the thing. Got out my socket wrenches and turn up the pressure from 40 PSI to 60 PSI and when she seen how simple it was, I was in trouble. But after she takes her shower, maybe I will be forgiven. smile Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a question of tyres
You need to remove the valve stem to do any kind of breaking down of the tire. To get the rim out of a tire, you have to break the bead around the rim. Usually a machine is used to apply a lot of pressure on the side of the tire while turning it under a roller. You can do this without a machine, but you will need some tools first. There are spoons which are pry bars with the end rolled over. The end hooks under the rim and then you push down forcing the bead away from the rim. You need a few of these spoons and as soon as you get one in place and while pushing down on the tire, you insert a 2nd spoon and do the same thing. Eventually as you work around the tire, you will break the bead away from the rim. Unfortunately, after one side is done, you flip it over and do it again. Finally, each bead has to be forced over the rim so it is free from the center of the tire. I used to change race car tires this way and don't envy you. I had a sledge hammer to help break the bead, but it is pretty dangerous. Too far from the rim and the tire would bounce it back at you. Hit the rim and you damage it and sting your hands real good. - Original Message - From: Carl To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com ; blind-garde...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 3:36 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a question of tyres i hav some tyres that i'm goeing to use to gro potatos but 2 of them still hav the wheals in the center how can i remove the wheals? i'm in the north east of the uk you can get me on skype with carlf16 or email carl...@googlemail.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks
And they are actually pretty easy to pick. I have a couple of them and when I forgot the combination it took me about 3 minutes to open it. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: handyman-blind Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks I use a lever pad lock on my locker. It is pretty easy to use, and very easy to set. I've noticed that after a couple of years, it does get very finicky and tends not to want to lock again. You get what you pay for. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks
The button kind? Just to be sure, I'm talking about the kind that have 4 or 5 levers that you slide and they click as you move them. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks Bob, when I did a search for it there were more sites showing how to pick it. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks And they are actually pretty easy to pick. I have a couple of them and when I forgot the combination it took me about 3 minutes to open it. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: handyman-blind Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks I use a lever pad lock on my locker. It is pretty easy to use, and very easy to set. I've noticed that after a couple of years, it does get very finicky and tends not to want to lock again. You get what you pay for. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5051 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5051 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks
I'm afraid a few too many loud engines, firearms and power tools for me to be able to hear like that now. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:22 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks I don't actually remember where I got it last time, probably target or Home Depot. Yeah, they are pretty easy to pick, just pull a bit of tension on the loop and start flipping levers. They keep out the lazy thieves. If someone is that intent on getting in though, I doubt a basic lock will do much for you anyway. A long time ago, when I had good hearing, I was able to pick cheap combination locks by listening for the tumblers. Haven't been able to do that for 25 years though. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting
Wow you must buy the really good wax. I give about $5 at Lowes. - Original Message - From: TJ McElroy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:22 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting Hello, I just helped to put a new floor in my master bathroom. I was having a problem very similar to yours. I would not shim your toilet. If it is not sitting flush / flat on the floor it could crack. If it cracks you will need to get a new stool. By the sounds of your problem, the floor that the stool is sitting on has most likely gotten wet and has deteriorated. You would most likely be able to replace just the part of the floor that the stool sits on, but not knowing the size of the bathroom you might be better off replacing the whole floor. Your toilet sits on a wax gasket about one ( 1 ) inch thick. There art two l shaped bolts that come up from the floor and pass through the bottom of the stool. ( Those are the ones that you tightened up ) Once the floor around those bolts becomes wet, they will pull through the floor and stop securing the stool to the gasket and the floor. Be careful if the stool rocks, you might be working some thing loose. The tank is held on with most likely two bolts. These bolts secure the tank to the stool. There is usually a rubber gasket between the tank and the stool. If the stool can rock back and forth, you might snap the tank from the stool or rip the water inlet from the tank. A new wax gasket costs about $ 20.00. HTH TJ - Original Message - From: Rick Hume To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 5:58 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting Howard, I would guess that you have some settling in the floor. Is this a wood floor? If so, it may be that some of the plywood flooring is deteriorating. You could shim the stool, but it might be a better idea to determine the actual issue and make the proper repair. I would examine the area carefully and try to determine the actual issue. Let us know what you find and someone should be able to assist with a fix. - Original Message - From: Howard Traxler To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:49 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting Hi all, In my powder room I had a toilet that seemed pretty loose from the floor--but didn't leak or nothin'. It would just slide around and rock a bit. I went in there with an adjustable wrench and tightened it up some. There are two bolts that seem to come up through the floor; one on each side of the main drain pipe. It seemed to become more stable, but actually tilted back as I tightened. Now the front edge is a quarter inch or so off the floor. It thumps down to the floor as someone sits with their weight tward the front. So, I guess it still rocks a bit. So: What's the problem and how can I fix it? Do I want a shim under the front? Do I want to tighten more? Or did I already tighten too much? Appreciate any ideas. Thanks. Howard Traxler [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] television remote control
Ah yes my grass hopper, the force is now with you. Or you replaced the batteries. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:26 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] television remote control Hi, I have a small television which I listen to thru some headphones. I also have a remote which in the past always like most must be pointed pretty much in a direct path to a small beam on the television. more recently it does not work that wayl I seem to have to nearly point the remote to the ceiling to make it work. any ideas of why it wuld do such a thing? thanks. Lee -- The right to be let alone is indeed the beginning of all freedom. -- Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders
That's why I have a wife... Did I write that out loud? - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 7:55 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders I just staple everything. Much easier than trying to thread a needle. *GRIN* -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] 14 gauge vs 12 gauge extension cord
We have to talk about that one... The neighbors have been entertained watching me untangle extension cords. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: handyman-blind Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 7:56 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] 14 gauge vs 12 gauge extension cord This is not a very useful response to your question, Lenny. I have no idea about the losses, but I will comment on your problem with coiling the long extention cords. From my days in rock climbing, I learned that a regular circular coil is not the best way to handle long ropes. With each loop, you put a full twist into the rope, then when you drop the rope, it tends to twist up and even get into tension knots. We use what is called a butterfly or back packer coil. I don't think I can explain it here without it sounding much more complicated than it really is. Much easier to show someone than explain it. Anyway, that is how I package up my long extension cords and they are much better behaved than when I just try to coil them into a continuous loop. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] changed fuse wire?
I used to work with something called fuseable links. They were lengths of wire that were soldered in line along a circuit. They were designed to melt at a specific range to make sure whatever was at the end of the circuit didn't fry. Don't know if that's what they mean or not. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 7:58 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] changed fuse wire? What is fuse wire? Only thing I know called fuse wire is almost solder used in some weird equipment as fuses. What I've seen wouldn't be springy. Tom Fowle [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] My mistake has turned into a puzzle
A stupid question maybe. Are you using oil based poly? If you have water based poly, the mineral spirits won't mix because there is some oil in the spirits. Probably not the problem, just the first thing that comes to mind. - Original Message - From: Tom Vos To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 8:00 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] My mistake has turned into a puzzle Yesterday I told you about my mistake in using the gunk at the bottom of the polyurethane can. Now I have started a fresh can, stirred well. The first coat went on beautifully. The second coat is showing signs of the milky streaking again. I thin the poly with some mineral spirits, and wipe it on with a clean cloth. I've made sure to do it in a warm dry place, working the poly as little as possible to get it spread. Does anyone have any guesses as to why I am getting milky streaks in the finish? Blessings, Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut
If you are just making a round hole, go as deep as you want. If you are making a mortise type cut that means you have to move the wood over the bit, you can make the end cuts as deep as they need to end up. Then come back and cut no more than an eighth, of an inch, 5 millimeters over there. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: Handyman Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 3:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut Hi all, well have just purchased my first router and router table so will have many questions. For a start. If I wish to make a plunge cut, with say a 12 mm diameter bit. what is the maximum depth I should go for a first pass? I am not sure if this is explaining myself correctly, so I will wait for the responses and modify the question if necessary. Thanks as always for the great help. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
No just very dead. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 12:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Is this Snake Wood? John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:42 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw When I was clearing fallen trees after hurricane Hugo, a copperhead had climbed up on one of the big logs. Being scared of snakes, I didn't want him running off and showing up later. My son had told me where he was and I held the saw near him. When I revved up the engine, and the chain started flying around the bar, he struck at the chain. The last mistake he'd ever make, as it were. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
When I was clearing fallen trees after hurricane Hugo, a copperhead had climbed up on one of the big logs. Being scared of snakes, I didn't want him running off and showing up later. My son had told me where he was and I held the saw near him. When I revved up the engine, and the chain started flying around the bar, he struck at the chain. The last mistake he'd ever make, as it were. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a
