[BlindHandyMan] Uses of Molasses: Fact & Fiction, judge for yourself!

[Ray Boyce]

 

1. Molasses is used by the Potash industry to clean up groundwater.
2. Used in the manufacture of processed tobaccos.
3. Used in beer making.
4. Added to white sugar to make 'brown' sugar.
5. To make licorice candy.
6. In dog and cat treats.


http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums2.jpg

 

 

7. For fruit smoothies.
8. To make pull taffy candy.
9. For imaging and transfers in lithographic printing when using
aluminum plates.
10.   For composting fish guts to break down the bacteria.
11.   Used in de-icing to make the product stick to the road.
12.   In the early weaning of lambs to make the product tastier & less
dusty.


 

 

http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums3.jpg

13.   Used in insect spray together with hydrogen peroxide.
14.   As a sweetener in dog food.
15.   For the treatment of boils.
16.   To make Worcestershire sauce.
17.   In the production of mushroom spawn.
18.   As an aid to plant growth.


 

http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums4.jpg

 

19.   To produce butanol.
20.   Used in cattle feed for taste & nutrition.
21.   As a hair tonic - to darken hair.
22.   To aid flowering in the growing of marijuana.
23.   As a launching medium for automatic fountains.
24.   As a honey substitute.


 

 

http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums1_b.jpg

25.   To assist in the retaining of moisture in grass for grazing & fire
reduction.
26.   Mixed with water for easing pain in joints.
27.   For upset stomach a mixture of molasses and ginger.
28.   For hiccups a mixture of molasses and pepper.
29.   Labrador tea - use molasses as a sweetener.
30.   To alleviate ear-ache - a mixture of molasses & vinegar.


http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums2_b.jpg

 

 

31.   To help laryngitis take a mixture of molasses, vinegar & lemon juice.
32.   As a worm medicine - a mixture of molasses and gunpowder.
33.   As a worm medicine - a mixture of molasses and cabbage.
34.   In the treatment of exzema - 2 teaspoons of molasses in milk twice a
day.
35.   As a treatment of baldness - massage molasses into the scalp.
36.   As a chest rub - molasses, butter and vinegar.


 

http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums3_b.jpg

 

37.   As a chest rub - molasses and ginger.
38.   As a chest rub - molasses and kerosene Never near an open flame.
39.   As a chest rub - molasses and linament.
40.   As a cold medicine - molasses and kerosene by mouth. Not recommended.
41.   To treat constipation - two teaspoons of molasses as needed.
42.   To aid healing - molasses and myrrh on a bandage.


http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums4_b.jpg

 

 

43.   To treat intestinal worms - molasses and flaxseed oil.
44.   As a cough syrup - molasses, horehound, wild cherry bark, mullun.
45.   In root beer - molasses, sassafrass, maize, root of local smilax
species.
46.   As a topping for ice-cream.
47.   To add gloss & shine to your pet's coat...add molasses to their food
daily.
48.   In ice-cubes for drinks - mix molasses and water to make ice-cubes for
iced tea or rum drinks.   Delicious!


 

 

http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums1.jpg

49.   As finger paint - a mixture of molasses & flour.
50.   A mixture of molasses and water promotes rose blooms.
51.   As an addition to baby formula for taste and nutrition.
52.   To encourage breast feeding massage the nipple with molasses.
53.   Add molasses to formula for infant colic.
54.   Used in waterproof paint.


 

http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums2.jpg

 

55.   As a fuel for automobiles.
56.   As a binding agent for coal.
57.   Stops the fan-belt from being noisy.
58.   As a winter tonic - a mixture of molasses and sulphur.
59.   To assist breathing - molasses and mustard poultice applied to chest.
60.   Used to attract bears.


 

 

http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums3.jpg

61.   Molasses is used in fertilizers.
62.   Dip a child's finger into a bowl of molasses & the bleeding will stop
& licking off the molasses will further sooth the situation!
63.   Use molasses in the production of yeast.
64.   In the production of vinegar.
65.   Citric acid is obtained from molasses.
66.   Ethyl alcohol is obtained from molasses.


http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums4.jpg

 

 

67.   Cure jerky with molasses.
68.   Molasses as an ingredient in making bricks.
69.   Used in casting molds.
70.   Used as a cement binder.
71.   Used in plastic.
72.   As a coating for pet food - birdseed, rodent pellets (for hamsters,
mice, rats, gerbils, guinea pigs etc.)


 

http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums1_b.jpg

 

73.   Used in fish food.
74.   Used in ant farm food.
75.   Used in worm food.
76.   As an air-freshener - boiling molasses in water.
77.   To restore colour to fingernails - rub on hands.
78.   Molasses snuff.


http://www.molasses.ca/site/img/cookums2_b.jpg

 

 

79.   Molasses mixed with soap to form a paste in the treatment of boils
80.   Molasses & ginger to ease stomach upsets
81.   It has been reported that a Tablespoon of mola

[BlindHandyMan] Beware of that noisy hybrid car

[Ray Boyce]

ONE of the world's quietest cars will use a fake engine noise to help save
lives.

Toyota has fitted its petrol-electric Prius, the world's best-selling
hybrid, with a speaker that emits an artificial sound to help warn
pedestrians of its approach.

General Motors, Nissan and Lotus are among other car makers set to follow
with similar pedestrian-alert systems as the motor industry responds to
criticism that hybrids such as the Prius endanger lives, particularly those
of the blind.

Some safety groups have called hybrids silent killers, and research has
shown hybrids are more likely to be involved in low-speed accidents with
pedestrians because of their ability to run in virtual silence on battery
power alone with the petrol engine switched off.

Toyota's Approaching Vehicle Audible System device is mounted inside the
Prius's front bumper and makes an exaggerated, synthesised sound of an
electric motor up to speeds of about 25 km/h. The company says the system,
which costs about $170 in Japan, is under consideration for Australia.

Such warning tones are expected to become mandatory for hybrids and electric
vehicles in the United States.

 



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[Ray Boyce]

Hi

Try here for all information on batteries

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Spiro
Sent: Sunday, 15 August 2010 8:17 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

 

  

okay, Tom or someone explain this to me:

a toy my kid just got says this:

do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries
do not use *rechargable batteries.

It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet.
It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below.
So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the 2 
AA needed?

I've mixed batteries before.
What should I have noticed?
I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch tape 
on each one so I don't toss them out.
Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers constant 
disposal.





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[BlindHandyMan] 20 Funny Handyman, Power Tool, Home Repair, and Automotive Videos.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi all

You might find them funny 

Found here

After playing one alt f4 back to play another.

http://www.swapmeetdave.com/Humor/Workshop/Videos.htm



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] 2010 Hardware Show Review

[Ray Boyce]

For tradesmen, contractors, DIY'ers or anyone who likes to be the first on
the block with the coolest new tools-the National Hardware Show (NHS) is the
place to be. From new framing hammers and
 flashlights to
the latest advancements in ShamWow technology, you'll find it here. Held
this year in Las Vegas, Nevada, the NHS is a product showcase where hundreds
of tools, gadgets and other home-improvement items are rolled out to the
public. It's actually a trade show targeted to retailers who distribute the
products on display, but that's incidental to guys like me that don't own a
 hardware store


 
http://konac.kontera.com/javascript/lib/imgs/grey_loader.gif

. We're in it for the gadgets. 

 

 

The following is a roundup of the latest innovations that our staff thought
might interest our readers, in case you couldn't make it to Vegas. 

 

 

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/0%201a1a1HardwareShow2010TTLea
d.jpg

Slide-N-Pump

A simple but effective design is all that's required for the new
Slide-N-Pump, an easy-to-use device to manually move water from place to
place with no mess. Just attach a standard garden hose to both ends, insert
the open hose-end into any volume of water (or other liquids) and pump it
away. The Slide-N-Pump also acts as a siphon initiator to create a
continuous flow of water. At one-third the price of electrical pumps, the
versatile Slide-N-Pump makes it easy to pump or siphon water anywhere,
without the need to use electricity near water. Use it to drain aquariums,
 hot tubs, post
holes, utility meters, toilets, basements, foundations, clogged gutters and
more.

 

 

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/0%201a1a1HardwareShow2010TT01.
jpg

Quickloader Tie-down Ratchet

If you find tie-down ratchets frustrating-and at times, nearly impossible-to
use, then check out the Quickloader from Wessel Industries. The Quickloader
is the first retractable tie-down ratchet that retains all the benefits of
the traditional two-piece design combined with a spring-loaded mechanism to
automatically roll up the strap. Compared to two-piece ratchets, the
Quickloader is easier to use, reduces time spent loading and unloading, and
is designed for a longer life cycle, because the retracted strap protects
the webbing from dirt and debris. Simply attach the hooks on each side of
the cargo then ratchet the handle to fasten it down. To release, move the
handle 180 degrees forward. Then, retract the strap for orderly storage
without tangles, twists and knots. Learn more at www.quickloader.com
 .

 

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/0%201a1a1HardwareShow2010TT02.
jpg

Rescue Tape

Attention DIY'ers and Tradesmen: You need some Rescue Tape. Rescue Tape is a
self-fusing silicone repair product that was originally used by the U.S.
Military. Using no adhesive, this versatile tape-like product is easy to use
on all sorts of jobs from plumbing to tool repair. You can quickly fix leaks
on hoses, insulate electrical wiring, wrap damaged tool handles and more.
The EHT staff has used Rescue Tape to install drain pipes, to help repair
patio furniture, and to seal an air compressor hose to an HVAC drain hose
(so we could blast clean the clogged drain hose). The possibilities are
endless. Simply pull the tape tightly and wrap back onto itself to create a
strong, self-fusing connection. According to the manufacturer, Rescue Tape
boasts a 950-PSI tensile strength, insulates 8,000 volts per layer and
withstands 500 degrees of heat. It also remains flexible to -85 degrees.
Visit www.rescuetape.com  .

 

 

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/0%201a1a1HardwareShow2010TT03.
jpg

E-Zpro Dovetail Jig

Traditionally, creating a professional-quality dovetail joint required
considerable carpentry skill, a steady hand, and precision tools or
expensive equipment. Most manufactured dovetail jigs were large, costly and
complex machines. In response, the all-new E-Zpro DOVEtailer Dovetail & Box
Joint Jig from General Tools & Instruments makes precision joinery a
possibility for anyone who owns a router or router table. The new jig is set
up to make perfect joints right out of the box, requiring no other parts or
equipment. The jig is machined from a heavy-duty aluminum extrusion and
features a sliding depth gauge that easily adjusts for routing both full and
half-blind joints to the dimensions your work requires. Face-joints or box
joints are just as easy to accomplish. Cut both pins and tails for dovetail
or box joints in two quick passes with a router or router table. The
DOVEtailer can be quickly repositioned to make continuous joints of any
length using its provided alignment key. Eac

[BlindHandyMan] Renovations almost Completed

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well I reported in my last post that we were debating whether or not to
remove a sliding door, well it has now been taken off.

This makes two glass sliding doors and one wooden door removed to give the
rooms a more open look which is the trend these days.

So I would not damage the sheet rock to much I had to remove the head board,
so I drove a flat wood chisel up between the door jam and the rear of the
head board.

This allowed me to push in a flat nail bar and while the wife was holding
the board I hammered it off banging towards the inside of the room standing
under the door opening.

It came off cleanly so all we had to do was fill up the nail holes sand off
and undercoat.

We had to purchase new head boards which now just go over the door openings
and I glued them on using no more nails.

I clamped them on using sash clamps and left them on for 24 hours as
recommended.

The base boards have been put back on but strangely we had to cut off a
little on each one for them to go back in.

I cannot explain why it could be because we re- stained them or the
continuous rain we are having caused them to absorb moisture and grow just
that little.

The furniture is back in and looks great on the floating flooring according
to the wife.

We still have to paint the hall and the bedroom doors but are now almost
done.

Ray 



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[BlindHandyMan] White Ash Floating Flooring Now Down

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well after two days of laying the professionals have done a fantastic job.

The wife gives her tick of satisfaction so it must be ok.

I put back in the dishwasher and levelled up the fridge door so it swing
shut.

I cut some vinyl disks to go under the jacking screws so they would not chew
into the new flooring before jacking it level. 

I had to screw down a gas bayonet fitting which comes up through the floor,
which we had to undo so we could remove the carpet.

Now we have to paint out the rooms and after staining the baseboards put
them back on.

We decided yesterday to take off the glass sliding doors so I removed the
tracks and the head board.

We are yet to put on a new one and might have to buy a wood piece to stain
if I cannot use what I have.

There is another door we might remove  but have not made a final decision
yet, the trick is getting the head board off without making a mess of the
sheet rock.

So it is about 7 days of painting before we can put back in all the
furniture.

Going along good so far.

Ray



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[BlindHandyMan] Work in Progress

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well yesterday we removed all furniture so we could start the clean out of
the carpet underlay and baseboards.

We successfully removed all baseboards except for the very last one and
managed to damage the sheet rock so we need to repair just this area.

The difficulty  was that all around the rooms they were double nailed and
very difficult to remove while trying not to damage the sheet rock.

We also have to buy some more baseboards which split while  trying to prize
them off.

So today we are going to remove the vinyl and dishwasher and making a
decision on whether or not to remove the ply under the vinyl.

I also have to replace a couple of Cyprus pine boards just outside of the
bathroom door where the shower leaked years ago and have wood rot in them.

This will mean I have to put another bearerunder the floor so I can cut
off the effected ends and nail on new pieces.

So it seems one job leads into another.

Ray 



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[BlindHandyMan] Quick Step Floating Flooring

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

We are about to have put down  in our lounge hall dining and kitchen areas
46 square metres of quick step white ash floating flooring.

This white ash colour is deceptive because it is not white as the colour
suggests.

What I have to do is remove all furniture carpets underlay and vinyl and all
mouldings around the walls at floor level.

I might have to remove the ply under the vinyl also but until I remove the
carpet and vinyl and have a feel at the difference in height I am not sure
just yet.

Then remove the carpet tension hooks around the walls so the floating floor
can fit up to the sheet rock.

I also have to remove the dishwasher for the flooring goes under this as
well as the refrigerator.

Then after the floor goes in  put back on the floor moulding.

The difficult part is removing this wood moulding without damaging it for it
is nailed on and we have to reuse it.

I am going to screw it back on so if I have to remove it to replace any
damaged sections in the future this process will be a little easier.

Where the flooring buts up to the kicks in the kitchen we are going to stain
the moulding the same colour as the kicks.

We have to then put on stick on felt pads on the bottoms of all chairs and
furniture so damage from usage  is kept   as low  as possible.

So there is plenty of work ahead.

I have included the URL for those who would like to read up on this
flooring.

http://www.quick-step.com/



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Linda

Try here

http://www.maxiaids.com/store/prodview.asp?idstore=6&idproduct=1367&product=

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of lvmumford
Sent: Tuesday, 13 April 2010 11:15 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

 

  

I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle
threaders. I am completely blind and I know there are needle threaders out
there but don't know whick ones are the most blind user friendly.
Much thanks,
Linda





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[BlindHandyMan] VIP Blind Handy Man Room

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

To all members of the Blind Handy Man Group and new members

They  have set up for your convenience a chat room on VIP Conduit called the
blind handy man room all you need is a microphone and join.

Here you can chat away to members all over the World and discuss any topic
and exchange ideas at your leisure.

I encourage all to participate and grow friendships and exchange ideas and
solutions to problems.

I have included the URL below to join, see you there.

http://www.vipconduit.com/joinform.shtml

 



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] DVD manual problems

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Brice

Try here it is free.

http://www.nch.com.au/switch/index.html?gclid=CJ3eipWJr6ACFQowpAod1TvFZg

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Thursday, 11 March 2010 5:20 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] DVD manual problems

 

  

I have a manual on 3 DVD's that I can't seem to listen to do to the 
software that opens the DVD. So I need to extract the audio so I can use 
winamp to listen to the manual. Can someone recommend a DVD audio extractor 
that is easy to use like CD extractor and any adjustments I need to make to 
use the program? Thanks. 

__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4932 (20100310) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com





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[BlindHandyMan] Reverse Imaging to Find Your Way

[Ray Boyce]

What is coming in the future, I hope they have built in voice explanations
of the images presented.

LOST in a big city? It is a familiar experience. So imagine if you could use
X-ray vision to see what was on the other side of the building in front of
you.

It sounds like science fiction, but researchers at the University of South
Australia have developed mobile phone software that can achieve just that.

Christian Sandor explained the application worked by using the phone's
camera. Users pointed the camera at a building and an image of it would
appear on the screen. Then, the image would change to show what was behind
the building, as if it was no longer there.

The technology, known as augmented reality, appears to be X-ray vision, but
in reality it uses pictures and images that already exist in databases such
as Google Earth and Google Streetview.

The application needs two pieces of information: a 3D model of the area or
city the phone user is in and the user's exact position.

A 3D model of a city could be built using information collected from aerial
surveys, Dr Sandor said.

Survey planes capture the shape and size of the buildings in a city.

That data is merged with images from databases to complete the 3D model.

GPS is used to work out the user's exact position. Once the software knows
this information, it uses information and images from the 3D model to
display a picture of what is behind the building.

Dr Sandor said the technology could not be used by peeping Toms to see into
people's houses because only the exterior views of buildings and streets
were held in the databases.

He said the research group was working with Nokia to build an ''X-ray
vision'' mobile phone application, which it hoped could be introduced in the
next two years.

Augmented reality technologies had only become possible in the last 10
years, Dr Sandor said, because of the development of sophisticated networks
such as Google Earth and Streetview.

As well as X-ray vision, the research team has developed two other types of
mobile phone applications called Meltvision and Distortvision.

Meltvision works using a similar process to the X-ray vision application,
but the image of the front of the building ''melts away'' to reveal what is
behind.

Distortvision alters the mobile video image so that objects out of the line
of sight can be ''bent'' into vision.

 



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[BlindHandyMan] National Pipe Thread Tapered Thread

[Ray Boyce]

(NPT) is a U.S.   standard for 
tapered threads used to join pipes 
  and fittings. ANSI 
 /ASME 
  
standard B1.20.1 covers threads of 60-degree form with flat crests and roots in 
sizes from 1/16 inch to 24 inch Nominal Pipe Size 
  [NPS] (this standard also 
covers various parallel ('straight') threads, see [1] 
 ). The taper rate for all NPT threads is 
1⁄16 (¾ inch per foot) measured by the change of diameter (of the pipe thread) 
over distance. The taper divided by a center line yields an angle 1° 47' 24" or 
1.7899° as measured from the center axis. Commonly-used sizes are ⅛, ¼, ⅜, ½, 
¾, 1, 1¼, 1½, and 2 inch, appearing on pipe and fittings by most U.S. 
suppliers. Smaller sizes than those listed are occasionally used for compressed 
air. Larger sizes are used less frequently because other methods of joining are 
more practical at 3 inches and above in most applications.

Nominal Pipe Size is loosely related to the inside diameter of Schedule 40 
  pipe. Because of the pipe wall 
thickness, the actual diameter of the threads is larger than the NPS, 
considerably so for small NPS. Other schedules of pipe have different wall 
thickness but the OD (outer diameter) and thread profile remain the same, so 
the inside diameter of the pipe is therefore different from the nominal 
diameter.

Threaded pipes can provide an effective seal for pipes transporting liquids 
 , gases 
 , steam 
 , and hydraulic 
  fluid. These threads are now used in 
materials other than steel and brass, including PVC 
 , nylon 
 , bronze 
  and cast iron 
 .

The taper on NPT threads allows them to form a seal when torqued as the flanks 
of the threads compress against each other, as opposed to parallel/straight 
thread fittings or compression fittings 
  in which the threads merely 
hold the pieces together and do not provide the seal. However a clearance 
remains between the crests and roots of the threads, resulting in a leakage 
around this spiral. This means that NPT fittings must be made leak free with 
the aid of thread seal tape   or 
a thread sealant   compound. (The use 
of tape or sealant will also help to limit corrosion on the threads, which 
otherwise can make future disassembly nearly impossible.)

There is also a semi-compatible variant called National Pipe Taper Fuel (NPTF) 
also called Dryseal American National Standard Taper Pipe Thread, defined by 
ANSI B1.20.3, designed to provide a more leak-free seal without the use of 
teflon tape or other sealant compound. NPTF threads are the same basic shape 
but with crest and root heights adjusted for an interference fit, eliminating 
the spiral leakage path.

Sometimes NPT threads are referred to as MPT ('Male Pipe Thread'), MNPT, or 
NPT(M) for male 
  (external) 
threads; and FPT ('Female Pipe Thread'), FNPT, or NPT(F) for female 
  (internal) 
threads. An equivalent designation is MIP (Male iron pipe) and FIP (Female iron 
pipe). Also the terms NPS and NPSM are sometimes used to designate a parallel, 
instead of taper, thread (this should not be confused with NPS meaning Nominal 
  Pipe Size).

 



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[BlindHandyMan] Cutting large glass bottles

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Has anyone got any ideas for cutting large bottles easily.

I can remember when I was a kid we used to tie a string around a bottle
soaked in kerosene light the string and after burning for a while drop it in
cold water this would then crack it around the string area.

Has anyone tried using wire connected to battery terminals then disconnected
and quickly dropped into cold water.

How long should it be left connected.

Or do you have a better method and what is that.

Ray

 



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[BlindHandyMan] Yearly inspection for Termites

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well I have been under the house  crawling around inspecting all the beams
for any termites.

I took a six foot stick under there because I did not want to run into any
snakes or big spiders.

The stick also found the piers and it was better  than head butting them
which is not the best experience.

All was good and I found no termites or where they had been, the wife made
me put on a  pair of overalls and I was glad I did for in some parts I had
to lay on my back to inspect the beams.

All the piers have galvanised ant caps on them but you do not know where
termites will appear.

I take a hammer and knock each beam in many places listening for a hollow
sound and inspecting entry points at the ends of beams where they but
against the walls.

So far so good.

Ray 



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[BlindHandyMan] Sliding Door Screen Repair

[Ray Boyce]

If you have already removed your sliding door screen, lay it down on a flat
surface with lots of room around you. Screen repair shops use a 4' x 8'
table often covered with carpeting to protect the screen doors painted
finish. If you have no suitable table, lay the screen door on the ground on
top of sheets of cardboard to prevent getting the screen door frame
scratched or marked .

If you have purchased your screen material, make sure you have enough before
you pull out the old screen cloth from the door. Take a strong sharp pointed
pin, (I use an awl), and poke around in each corner of the door to find the
end of the spline, lever it out of the channel, and grab it it with your
fingers and pull it all the way out.

Sometimes you wont be able to pull the spline out in one continuous length.
It will keep breaking. Exposure to the sun leaves plastic spline brittle and
inflexible. In those circumstances, you may have to use a utility knife to
cut through the spline all around the spline channel until the spline
disintegrates or comes free in small pieces.

An Older sliding door screen may have aluminum or even steel spline.
Aluminum spline can be pried out easily enough but it cannot be reused, so
be sure you have the right diameter plastic spline on hand to replace it.

Steel spline can be reused but its probably easier to consider having new
modern sliding door screen frames made to replace the old steel spline
frames.

You need at least 84" of cloth to repair the average screen door. The width
of the cloth should be a few inches wider than your door. Common widths are
30", 36" and 48"

You can now remove the screen cloth which should come out in one piece. Once
you have removed the cloth, use a flat blade screwdriver to clean out the
spline channel so that when you roll in new spline there will be no
obstructions.

Sliding door screen frames have a tendency to cave in a little when the
material is rolled in. Window screen frames may need to have the sides bowed
out by perhaps one quarter inch to compensate for the tension of the
material. Many screen doors are already bowed or cambered in the factory.
Part of the skill required in screen repair is to know how much tension to
put on the cloth as you roll it in, so as not to bow in the frame. If you
are using fiberglas cloth, you can usually pull out the spline and start
over untill you get it right. More practice is required to get aluminum
cloth in properly as you cant pull it out and start over. You can clamp the
door sides to a repair table to prevent them from being cambered in. 

The time before you roll the screen is also a good time to check the frame
and the screen door rollers or glides. Check to see if they adjust up and
down when the screws are tightened or released. Many rollers can only be
serviced by disassembling the frame. So repair them now before spending any
time re-screening.

If you find the frame is beyond repair you may want to buy a new screen
door.

Fiberglass screen cloth is made of strands of fiberglass woven criss-cross
into a mesh pattern. Typically screen cloth is woven into an 18 x 16 mesh.
Which means 18 wires per inch by 16 wires per inch. Meshes are made much
tighter and much looser than this but they are generally not used for window
screening. The strands of fiberglass used in the weaving usually .011 inch
in diameter for window screening. A thicker .013" diameter is often used for
screen cloth used on screen porches.

After the weaving. The cloth is dipped in a vinyl coating with additives to
give the material some fire and weather resistant properties. Some cheaper
brands of screen cloth omit these coatings making their material less
expensive but less durable and sometimes incapable of meeting building and
fire codes. The coating material can be coloured. The most common colour is
black. Another common colour is grey. In recent times other colours have
been experimented with to allow the screens to match the colour scheme of
the house.

 

Aluminum screen cloth is available in similiar sizes as for fiberglass.
Aluminum is often called "bright wire" which refers to the shiny uncoated
aluminum screen wire. This material can corrode quickly and develops a white
powdery oxide coating over the years which does not look all that
attractive.

To combat this manufacturers have painted the standard aluminum screen black
and called this "black wire". When this stuff goes in new it has the
advantage of being the most "invisible" type of screen. Black aluminum
screen doors are the easiest to accidently walk through !

There is also electro alodized screening which is also black but is produced
using an electro chemical process which prevents corrosion better than black
paint. New York Wire is a screening manufacturer who uses this process.

Aluminum is stronger than fiberglass and works fine with humans but it is
still not sufficient to stand up to scratching by most pets. It is suitably
strong for storm door screens and is used 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Output valtage from a USB

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Max

USB voltage:

Supplied voltage by a host or a powered hub ports is between 4.75 V and 5.25
V. Maximum voltage drop for bus-powered hubs is 0.35 V from its host or hub
to the hubs output port. All hubs and functions must be able to send
configuration data at 4.4 V, but only low-power functions need to be working
at this voltage. Normal operational voltage for functions is minimum 4.75 V.

Found here

http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Agent086b
Sent: Tuesday, 2 March 2010 8:30 AM
To: Handyman
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Output valtage from a USB

 

  


Hi all,
does anybody know the output voltage from a USB port on a computer.
I wish to charge something but I don't know that voltage.
Thanks for any advice.
Max.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] tsunami

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Lenny
We are ok here because we are 24 miles from the Coast and 131 feet above sea
level.
I was listening to the radio this morning and they were expecting waves
around 9 am but nothing happened out of the ordinary.
So that is good for all the people that live on the Coast.
Regards
Ray
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Sunday, 28 February 2010 10:19 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tsunami

We have had a lot of discussion about snow storms. I hope that all of our 
friends in Hawaii, Australia and New Zealand will be safe from the tsunami. 
I just heard on the news that the waves are at 3 feet at Hawaii. Keep safe 
my friends.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

[BlindHandyMan] Changing rollers in glass sliding door

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well I changed the rollers in the bottom of our glass sliding door yesterday
and it turned out to be more difficult than I thought.

The problem was not getting them out but because the hold down screw hole in
the new roller brackets had No screw thread in it this is what holds the
bracket to the frame of the door and without it there is nothing to hold it
in , apparently that is how they are now.

We fisted two large hardware stores and these rollers are all the same in
design.

So I drilled out this hole and used a larger screw and a square nut which
fitted inside the bracket  to hold these rollers to the bottom of the door.

Then I lowered   the rollers up inside the frame with the adjusting screw so
I could lit the door back into the track, then tilted the door slightly so I
could adjust the rollers down so the dor could slide.

By adjusting these rollers you can square up the door and after all this the
door now works like it should.

Can anyone explain how these brackets can be held under the door without
using these unscrewed holes, for when you buy these rollers there is no
additional  screws or clips of any kind which come in the packet.

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Labelling Tips

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Victor

PENfriend audio labeller

Size: 16cms long, 3.5cm diameter

Code: ES6285
Features: Using the PENfriend you can record and re-record your voice using
adhesive labels. You can instantly playback the recording by placing the pen
on the label. Use to label: food items, including freezer items, film and
music collections, household objects or even to organise letters and other
paperwork as well as record shopping lists or leave audio messages. Powered
by 2x AAA batteries.


Further Product Information:


 Items supplied with the PenFriend 

1 x PenFriend labelling pen

127 x mixed sized labels (small round, large round, large square)

1 x USB cable

1 x neck lanyard

2 x AAA batteries

1 x storage box

There is no limit to the length of individual recordings, so they can be
used for short messages as well as long. The internal memory is 1GB which
allows up to 70 hours of recording.

12 month warranty

 


Product Benefits:


. Affordable

. Light weight and portable

. It is user friendly, with simple function buttons. Audible instructions
are clear and easy to follow.

. Buttons are easy to identify by touch

. Does not require special battery (AAA). The batteries are easy to change.
The device has an audible low battery warning.

. Auto shutdown function after 3 minutes of non-use.

. Playback of voice recording is very clear, 

. Volume is adjustable, maximum setting is quite loud.

. Has many applications for both a person with low vision and totally blind.

. Each recording is not time limited

. Quite a significant total recording time of up to 70 hours

. Comes with 127 labels of various sizes. More labels can be purchased

. Labels are re-usable, that is, you can record over unwanted labels.

. Comes with a lanyard to hand around your neck - useful for someone who has
difficulty holding items for long periods. Protects the device from dropping
accidentally.


Points to Consider:


. Could be difficult to locate labels, but this can be easily solved
by using tactile marking 

. Need to make sure that you know what you want to record as you
cannot add further information to a label like you can with the ID Mate
talking bar code scanner.

. Currently the labels are not waterproof or washable, but there are
plans to release washable versions

. Labels cannot be microwaved.

. The device is black with blue control buttons - it is not the best
contrast

. Lowest volume setting is 0 - if accidentally turned down all the
way, could be mistaken for not working.

.  



 


Helpful Hints:


 . PENfriend has many applications including: 

o Memo / Note taker

o Making shopping lists

o Recording recipes

o Recording Expiry Dates on food products in pantry or freezer

o Recording dietary information on food products

o Attach labels to magnetic tape for labelling canned food 

o Audio labels on medication bottles, with information such as dosage and
when to take the tablets

o Audio labeller for CD, Video or DVD collection

o Labelling content of shelves, cupboard and drawers

o Record washing instructions on specific clothing items

o Labelling cosmetics, including colour information

o Labelling paperwork such as bills and other documents

o In the classroom: labelling classroom equipment and resources, class
timetable

o In the garden: plant and vegetable name tags

o In the workplace: labelling equipment, maintaining files

. Useful tips:

o Colour in the labels to provide contrast to background

o Label can be laminated to make it waterproof


Product Comparison:


 The IDmate: 

. The Penfriend has a much clearer voice recording output. 

. However, PENfriend does not come with product database, all information
has to be recorded by the user.

. It is cheaper than IDmate

. Lightweight

Found Here

https://secure.visionaustralia.org/visionaustralia/onlineshop/ProductDetail.
aspx?ID=549




 

 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Victor Gouveia
Sent: Friday, 26 February 2010 1:45 AM
To: Blind Handyman Listserv
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Labelling Tips

 

  

Hi Everyone,

I'm labeling a whole bunch of stuff here in the house, and it seems that the
daimo tape isn't sticking.

I've completely cleaned the surfaces well, and wiped them down with alcohol,
but the labels are coming off faster than you can say hot knife through
butter.

Anyone have any tips they can pass along that will help me get this stuff
stuck on well, and that won't come off?

I'm literally at my tapes end, so to speak.

Just to name a few things I'm labeling are the flat panel on the microwave,
my fax machine, which I'm going to try placing the labels on the buttons
directly, as opposed to the sides of them as I did when I first tried to
lable it, my washing machine, and my dryer.

Again, I simply can't understand why the labels are coming off.

It's not humid in my house, if anything it's extra dry in here, especi

RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric snow blower

[Ray Boyce]

Hi David
Move down here,  and believe me you will not need any snow blower

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of David Ferrin
Sent: Friday, 26 February 2010 6:27 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric snowblower

My next door neighbor has such an animal and it looks like he is trying to 
put out a fire with a squirt gun.
David Ferrin
www.jaws-users.com
Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" 
To: "handyman-blind" 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 11:26 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric snowblower


Well, first I can't locate one locally. Has anyone used the electric snow
shovels? I was reading about some and am not really sure about them. One has
a 6 amp motor but according to some reviews does not work well with a heavy
wet snow. One had a great review but was a snow blower with a 19 inch by 11
inch path. It was also a little expensive over $300.
My sidewalk where I clear is about 15 feet long and the path I clear is
about 3 feet wide. The electric snow shovels clear a 12 x 4 inch path and
can be used on steps.
I would like to order one but do not know what ones really work best. Since
they weigh about 10 pounds, I don't think my doctor will have a problem with
me using it.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list

just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links







Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now Open

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

The blind handy man room on VIP Conduit is now open for any members who
would like to have a chat.

See you there

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room on Vip Conduit

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

The blind handy man room on vip conduit is now open come on in .

Ray 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now Open on vip

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

I have the blind handy man room now open on vip conduit.

So come over and have a chat all you need is a microphone and join.

Ray 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Candle Powered Light Perhaps how it was done

[Ray Boyce]

Ok, I am not going to insult anyones intelligence here and claim that this
video could be true. I am curious how it is done though. My theory is that
during one of the early cut scenes the nails that are inserted into the
 candles are connected to power from under the table. Or longer nails are
inserted and there are hooked up to power from the back of the candle and
simply draped over the back edge of the table (not visible by the camera).
The power is then controlled by a switch that is located under the table. 

It seems that his hands go under the table whenever power is applied or
removed. I guess it could also be controlled by someone who is off camera. I
was thinking that the jumper cables were simply connected to power from the
right and left where the camera can't see but the jumper cables are placed
on the table at the end and are still providing power.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] candle powered electric light

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Lenny
Form your own  opinion
http://www.google.com/cse?ie=UTF-8&cx=000183394137052953072%3Azc1orsc6mbq&q=
How+does+nails+rubbed+on+a+magnet+work+when+pushed+a+candel+and+light

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Saturday, 13 February 2010 7:40 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] candle powered electric light

A friend sent me a video of a candle powered electric light. I wish I knew 
how it worked, I soon will be talking to a few scout troops and I always 
take a few magic illusions along. To describe this there are two candles, 
two nails, two wires with allagator clips, a flashlight bulb and a magnet. 
They first rub the magnet on the nails and carefully push each nail into a 
candle. they hook the wires to the nails and then to the bulb. When  they 
light the candles the bulb lights. Sure would like to be able to recreat 
this.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

[BlindHandyMan] Easy way to find Articles

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Betsy

When in the list of articles found in the blind handy  Man files area in the
HTML section and at the top

Just press control f and then type in what it is you are looking for and
then  tab over to find press enter and it will find what you are looking
for.

This may be an easier way of looking through all these articles and find
exactly what it is you are after.

Ray  

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning computer keyboard

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Frank

Check these tips out.

http://www.computerhope.com/cleaning.htm#01

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of frank cunningham
Sent: Tuesday, 9 February 2010 10:15 AM
To: blind handyman
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning computer keyboard

 

  

Howdy All, looking for any and all suggestions on cleaning a computer 
keyboard that tends to get greasey.
Any suggestions...

Frank





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Have you any positive thoughts for Improvements  that could be undertaken to
make this group better.

Is there something that you would like to see happening that would make this
membership better informed.

Now that I am retired I have the time to do lots more research so please let
us know how or what I can do to help you.

Positive thoughts please no smart arse comments that does not help anyone.

Ray

  



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Washing Machine Hose Problem

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Betsy

Our sink has holes either side at the  back of the sink on the top.

This allows you to bypass the washing machine water directly out down the
drain.

So it would not matter if the washing machine was on the left or right side
you have access to discharge the water this way.

If you feel under the sink you can feel these pipes coming into the s bend
on the rear.

Ray 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 11:13 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Washing Machine Hose Problem

 

  

Hmm, I think I'm missing something. Where are the 
holes? I looked on the top at the back where the faucet is mounted, not
there.
Betsy
At 10:50 AM 2/7/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi Betsy
>
>On the corners of most sinks there are holes to put your washing machine
>discharge water hose in the water bypasses the sink .
>
>I just checked ours and it would not matter if the machine was on the left
>or right these holes are there.
>
>If you did not want to save this water then this might be an alternative to
>stop splashing.
>
>Also there is a plastic hanger which goes over the hose and hangs on the
top
>of the sink if you adjust the length of the hose hanging into the sink and
>if possible put it closer to the bottom it might stop splashing also.
>
>Let us know please what worked for you.
>
>In summer I have 2 lengths of drain hose from the washing machine running
>out on to the lawn when water restrictions are in play.
>
>Ray
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Irrigation system

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Sheryl

Try here for irrigation information the answers are at the bottom

http://www.dripirrigation.ca/faq.asp

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sheryl Nelson
Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 12:41 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Irrigation system

 

  

Aloha again from Sheryl,
I am trying to put in an irrigation system in my small but pleasant 
yard. The water pressure is not to high. Should there be a minimum 
amount of pressure like gallons per minute? If so what should that 
number be? I am using 3/4 inch pvc pipe, the connector at the main 
line by where my water meter is is also 3/4 inch, I have between 900 
and 1,000 square feet and plan to put 2 lines with 4 heads off each 
line. Each line is approximately 35 to 40 feet long with the heads 
being open around 180 degrees give or take a little. Each line will 
be connected to a different faucet which will have a splitter on it 
so the faucet can still be used for other things. Is there a way to 
connect the system to the main line from where my water is hooked in 
to the city line or does that even matter? I was thinking that if we 
put a split or second connector where the main line comes to my 
property on my property of course by the water meter that might be 
better than connecting the system at the faucet. I recall a number of 
55 something the plumber told me which had to do with water pressure. 
Sorry don't know what that number needs.
Thank you for any help you can give. Aloha Sheryl





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Washing Machine Hose Problem

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Betsy

On the  corners of most sinks there are holes to put your washing machine
discharge  water hose in the water bypasses the sink .

I just checked ours and it would not matter if the machine was on the left
or right these holes are there.

If you did not want to save this water then this might be an alternative to
stop splashing.

Also there is a plastic hanger which goes over the hose and hangs on the top
of the sink if you adjust the length of the hose hanging into the sink and
if possible put it closer to the bottom it might stop splashing also.

Let us know please what worked for you.

In summer I have 2 lengths of drain hose  from the washing machine running
out on to the lawn when water restrictions are in play.

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] bug patrol please help.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Sheryl

Tell the exterminator where they are and let him deal with it, that is why
you are paying him to deal with these pests.

For it seems they are in the wall cavity behind these outlets.

Ray 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sheryl Nelson
Sent: Sunday, 7 February 2010 12:13 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] bug patrol please help.

 

  


>Aloha everyone,

I have been doing my remodel which has been taking longer than I 
hoped. Living in the tropics cockroaches are a normal part of life. 
It seems to me I have upset every bug in Hawaii doing this work on my 
house. I have an exterminator coming monthly to spray the yard and 
house for bugs and he puts some bait by the electrical outlets in 
some areas like the kitchen. I would like to put the bait inside the 
outlet plate but probably should not put it through the plug holes. 
Here are my two questions. Where and how would you put the bait for 
the bugs in the outlet so they take it back to their nests then die? 
One of the outlets they seem to particularly enjoy well, perhaps if I 
plug the holes or cover the outlet with an outlet cover plate that 
should help. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance. Aloha Sheryl





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Washer drainage hose splashes when emptying

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Betsy

Try some fly screen mesh held on by some elastic bands  but punch some holes
through the mesh with a kebab stick first and then see how the water empties
out next time.

All you are trying to do is break up the water so it does not splash up the
wall.

Ray

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
Sent: Sunday, 7 February 2010 3:30 PM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Washer drainage hose splashes when emptying

 

  

Aloha all,
I have a deep laundry sink where the washer drains. When the water 
hits the bottom of the sink it sometimes splashes onto the wall 
beside the sink. Is there something I can put on the hose to make it stop?
TIA
Betsy
Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now Open

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

If you would like to join me over on VIP Conduit in the blind handy man room
it is now open.

Come on in please and tell me what you have been up to around your home.

Ray 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Sheryl's introduction

[Ray Boyce]

Aloha Sheryl

Welcome aboard,  I would like to talk to Betsy and You in the blind handy
man Room on VIP Conduit so please join .

I have included the link below.

http://www.vipconduit.com/policy1.shtml

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sheryl Nelson
Sent: Saturday, 6 February 2010 7:54 AM
To: Blind Handyman List
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sheryl's introduction

 

  

Aloha everyone, My name is Sheryl and I am a long time friend of 
Betsy. She has told me about this list and I finally joined and have 
been reading the incoming emails.
I bought my first house three years ago and have done an extensive 
remodel, renovation or improvement, call it what you like. My house 
is a 1920 bungalow style house on post and peer construction which is 
quite common here in Hawaii. I have 9 foot ceilings, an unusually 
shaped lot and a one car stone garage. I have a large Mango tree that 
provides shade for all who visit to sit under. The house needed some 
tender loving care as the previous owners were going to remodel but 
decided to obviously sell instead. I picked my contractor who 
fortunately I picked someone I like working with. I then began doing 
research on products for the house. The contractor is great at the 
building but wasn't so great at making recommendations for products 
so I did extensive research from windows to paint. I'll share 
information about two things I love. the "feather river" exterior 
door from Home Depot I have as my front door is wonderful. The door 
itself is fiberglass with an oval shaped glass insert . I spent hours 
and hours looking for a door. The front of my house has a west 
exposure and the sun would be harsh on a wood door. Many fiberglass 
doors I looked at were cheap feeling with a hollow space between the 
outer door and the core. The door matches the time period of my house 
which is important to me. It is energy star rated so get about a 
$300.00 tax credit. My contractor couldn't even tell if this is 
wood or not that is how wood like it looks and feels. The door is 
worth all the time it took to find just the right one. The second 
product I want to tell you about is "cool wall exterior paint" which 
cost about $10.00 more per gallon than other paints. Keeping the 
exterior walls cooler keeps the interior of the house cooler and IT 
WORKS. When you touch the exterior of the house it doesn't even feel 
Luke warm it has a much cooler surface than paint otherwise would. 
For tropical and warm climates like Hawaii it seems perfect. The 
research showed that it helps with keeping the house cooler by 
keeping out radiant heat. One of the reflective components in the 
paint is recycled glass. The paint is rich and thick and smells 
different than other paints. Of course you can't block all the heat 
but cutting down helps. My bedroom is also on the west side of the 
house which was hot. I can now sleep comfortably and removed the 
window air conditioner. The "cool wall paint" new windows and my 
solar attic fan all help in the cooler house process. I still can 
enjoy the fresh air while feeling comfortable. I next will plant 
grass and have found a grass that takes "little care." Will tell you 
more about that after I know more.
Thanks for all the great posts and information. Aloha have a great 
day. Sheryl





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Wiring a switch.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dan

Step One  

(Refer to Figure 1.)  Connect the ground (bare wire) wire to the device box
and cut it off approximately one inch past the ground screw. 

Connect the black wire to one screw and the white wire (hot) to the other
screw on the switch.



Figure 1.

Note: This is the only time that you want to use a white wire as the "hot"
conductor. This is done so you are left with a black and a white wire at the
light instead of two whites to hook up to your light.

Step Two

(Refer to Figure 2.)  Usually you will have a 2 conductor #14
 cable coming from
the light box to the switch box. Conductor is a fancy word for wire and #14
is the size of wire you will use throughout 95% of your house.



Figure 2.

At the light box (octagon box) connect the black wire from the switch to the
black wire of the light. Also connect the white wire from the switch to the
black conductor coming from the breaker. 

Found here

http://www.electrical-online.com/Lightsandswitches.htm

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Saturday, 6 February 2010 6:19 AM
To: Blind Handyman List
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wiring a switch.

 

  

Not that I have any immediate plans of rewiring, but this question popped 
in my head. I think I've seen a comment about this here before.

If you are wiring a switch to a light fixture, do you:

#1: Run a set of wires from the power source to the switch, and a set of 
wires from the switch to the light fixture. In this case, connecting both 
blacks to the switch terminals, and tieing the two whites together? Do 
you just stuff the white splice in the box with the switch?

#2: Run a set of wires from the power source to the light fixture, and a 
set of wires from the switch to the light fixture. In this case, The 
white from the power would connect to the white on the light, and the two 
switch wires would be connected between the black power, and black light 
wires. It technically wouldn't matter which orientation you connected the 
switch wires, but is there a standard? I mean, black power, to black 
switch, then white switch to black fixture.

#3: I assume this one is definitely wrong, but similar to #2. Run power 
directly to the light fixture, then just interrupt the black wire at some 
point with the switch wires.

I believe choice #1 is the correct option, but is choice #2 against code?

Choice #3 seems to be the most efficient use of wire, no parallel runs of 
wire, but would make it a pain in the ass to ever trace an issue since you 
wouldn't necessarily know where the switch spliced into the power line.

Just a thought for the day.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu  
Tel: (412) 268-9081





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now Open

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

The topic for discussion today is Measuring, what do you use for measuring
lengths and widths.

Do you use something unusual that we all can use.

See you over at the VIP Conduit blind handy man room.

Come on over.

Ray  



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen remodel

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Betsy

You can find lots of information on dry wall compounds here.

http://www.drywallschool.com/mud.htm

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
Sent: Friday, 5 February 2010 6:01 AM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen remodel

 

  

Aloha everyone,
My house is absolutely full of dust, but the kitchen is being 
remodeled. If I'd known they were going to sand the sheet-rock with 
an electric sander, I would have insisted they hang blocking 
material. However, the sanding only lasted five minutes and I must 
say the dust was incredible.

I'm curious about a product called hot-mud. They put it on the 
sheet-rock first and then over a period of time, applied to coats of 
texturing mud. The hot-mud is a very strange substance because you 
add water to it to make it harden. The other muds you have to apply 
them and let the moisture evaporate for them to harden.

This may be something that all of you already know about and use 
regularly, but it was a first for me. That hot-mud made a very hard 
smooth surface.
Betsy

Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Drills

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

We were discussing drills and drill sharpeners on VIP Conduit this afternoon
in the Blind Handy Man Room and I said I would post an article on drills.

I am sure I have posted this before but for the new members and for Geoff
who I have a very high regard for here it is again.

If you work long enough, you'll discover you really can't have too many
drill bits. They're needed for numerous around-the-home, shop and contractor
chores. Bits are available for drilling just about any material, including
wood, the various metals, concrete, stone, tile and even glass. As you can
guess, a wide variety of "bits" or tools for drilling are available for use
with portable drills and drill presses. These include standard twist drill
bits, auger bits, spade bits, Forstner bits, expansion bits, step-drill
bits, hole saws, pilot-hole and screw bits, and plug cutters. 

Twist drill bits are the most common, and are available in a variety of
sizes, materials and shapes. Show is a typical bit configuration.

 

Twist Drill Bits

Twist drill bits are some of the most common shop tools. They're available
in a wide range of sizes, point and twist shapes, and these days they're not
only available in standard industrial-grade steel, but also in "exotic"
materials including titanium coated, black oxide and cobalt. Don't buy cheap
bits. They're frustrating and can be dangerous, causing you to push or exert
force when drilling. 

 

Drill bits are the most common tool accessory, a $740 million North American
market. Drill bits are available in a wide variety of types, sizes and
materials for specific metal- and wood-boring chores.

 

Drill bit sizes come in four categories: fractional sizes, wire-gauge sizes,
letter sizes and metric. Fractional sizes begin at 1/64 inch and run to more
than 4 inches. The smaller bits increase in size by 64'ths, the mid-size
bits by 32'nds and the larger bits by 16'ths. Wire-gauge numbers run from
No. 1 through 80 (the smallest). All sizes are less than 1/4 inch and begin
at 0.0135 inch (No. 80) up to 0.2280 inch (No. 1). The numbers correspond to
standard wire sizes. These bits are used where exact hole dimensions are
required, such as when tapping threads in holes. Letter size bits begin the
next size up from No. 1 wire gauge. They begin at 0.2340 inch (A) and run to
0.4062 inch (Z). The largest size is smaller than 7/16 inch. These too are
used to make precise hole sizes. 

 

And, of course, there are metric sizes in millimeters. One millimeter is
equal to 0.0394 inch.  

Twist bits are commonly sold in a standard length, called "jobber" lengths,
with the length varying according to the bit diameter. These will handle
most of the jobs you'll tackle, but at times a longer length may be needed.
In this case, extensions are available for 1/4-inch bit shanks. With many
"hex-heads" available these days, an extension will fit most bit sizes, but
they are designed primarily for woodworking, not metal chores.

 

The next step in twist drill "school" is the point angle. Typically, 118
degrees is the most common angle. But these drills require a starting
"dimple" in metal with a center punch, otherwise the bit will "walk" or
"skate" away from the hole location. Bits with a 135 degree point will start
their own hole in metal and, of course, can be used on many other materials.
Brad-point bits provide even more precise starting in both metal and wood.
Woodcraft Supply carries extra-long, 10-inch brad-point bits, handy for many
furniture construction chores. 

 

 

The helix and flute angles are also important, and again these days there's
more variety to choose from, depending on the job. The new Bosch Speed Helix
design has an aggressive flute structure engineered to remove material
faster, and the 135-degree split point eliminates walking, making the bit
more efficient, with up to three times faster penetration than bits designed
with a standard helix. Quicker penetration also means less energy on the
part of the drill turning the bit, as well as the user pressing down, which
translates into more battery life for a cordless drill/driver and less
fatigue on the part of the user. 

 

Twist drill bits are made of a variety of materials, with carbon steel the
softest. High speed steel (HSS) bits are also available. As mentioned
earlier, exotic materials these days include black oxide, titanium and
cobalt. Each is designed for a specific purpose, and Bosch has introduced
new designs in these bits as well. The Bosch High-Speed Steel Black Oxide
bits are all-purpose for heavy-duty drilling in wood, plastic, carbon and
alloy steels, aluminum and soft cast iron. 

Titanium is designed for repetitive heavy-duty drilling in wood, plastic,
common stainless steels, carbon and alloy steels, and soft cast iron. The
new Bosch titanium drill-bit line offers the industry's toughest titanium
bits. By coating each bit with high-speed steel-titanium nitride, Bosch not
only made the surface of the bit harder, in exces

RE: [BlindHandyMan] bluebird boxes

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Lenny
Here is a description of the Blue Bird House you are looking for with
dimensions included.

http://www.bygpub.com/bluebird/

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Monday, 25 January 2010 5:15 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] bluebird boxes

Does anyone know what a bluebird nesting box looks like? There is an article

in today's paper where they will be monitoring bluebirds. They also stated 
that they need donations of materials to make the boxes and volunteers to 
construct them. In the next day or so I will probably call them to check out

a box to see how difficult they would be to build.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

[BlindHandyMan] Poisonous plants for pets

[Ray Boyce]

Anemones or windflowers (Anemone coronaria)
Bulbs (daffodils, tulips, jonquils, snowdrops)
Caladium bicolour (indoor foliage plant)
Castor oil plant (Ricinus communis)
Calice vine (Solandra maxima)
Cherry tree (Prunus serrulata)
Clematis (Clematis sp.)
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster glaucophylla)
Cycads (notably their seed pods)
Daffodils (Narcissus)
Daphne (Daphne odora)
Delphinium
Devil's ivy (Epipremnum aureum)
Dicentra (Dicentra spectabilis)
Dieffenbachia
Euphorbias (poinsettias, Euphorbia characias wulfenii)
Food around the house: ie, apricot kernels, avocados, chocolate, grapes,
macadamia nuts, onions, potatoes, raisins, sultanas are all potentially
poisonous to pets
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Golden robinia (Robinia pseudoacacia 'Frisia')
Hellebore (Helleborus orientalis)
Hemlock (Conium maculatum)
Holly (Ilex varieties)
Hydrangeas
Indoor plants: many are poisonous to pets, so keep all indoor plants out of
the reach of puppies and kittens especially, but also adult dogs and cats.
Iris
Jerusalem cherry (Solanum pseudo-capsicum)
Jasmines (the climbers)
Lantana (Lantana camara)
Lilac (Syringa varieties)
Liliums (especially dangerous to cats)
Madagascar jasmine (Stephanotis)
Mountain laurel (Kalmia varieties)
Mushrooms and toadstools
Nightshade (Solanum nigrum)
Oaks (Quercus varieties)
Oleanders (Nerium oleander, Thevetia peruviana)
Onions
Philodendron
Pines (eg, savin, Juniperus sabina, also several others)
Poinciana (not the tropical tree, but the shrub Caesalpinia pulcherrima)
Potatoes and green potatoes
Privet (Ligustrum varieties)
Pyracantha
Rhododendrons (including azaleas)
Rhubarb (leaves)
Snowdrops (Galanthus)
Snowflakes (Leucojum) 

Stephanotis 
Strelitzias (Strelitzia reginae, S. nicolai)
Sweet peas
Toadstools
Tomatoes
Tulips
Walnuts
Wandering jew (Tradescantia)
Wisteria
Yesterday, today and tomorrow (Brunfelsia)
Yew (Taxus varieties)  

Copyright 2008 CTC Productions



 



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[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now OPEN

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

If you would like to chat the blind handy man room on Vip Conduit is now
open.

So come on over I would like to say good day.

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] drilling holes in pvc pipe

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Lenny
Just get a piece of angle either plastic or metal and lay it along the pipe
then mark a line along the pipe using either a scriber or pencil it depends
if you have any sight.
You can find a scriber stuck into your combination square.
After drilling the top holes use the scribed line then with a centre square
mark a line on the opposite side of the pipe and run a line along that side.
If you just drill straight through the first time you might not have the
pipe centred exactly and you will find it is out somewhat.
I drilled a piece of pipe the other day when I was making a jig and found I
had to start again because the holes were out so do it correctly the first
time and it will turn out spot on. 
This will give you holes in line. 
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Wednesday, 20 January 2010 2:27 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drilling holes in pvc pipe

I want to make a holder for my table saws miter gauge.  I have about a 20 
inch of 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe and some very strong magnets with 1/4 bolts in 
the center. I want to drill a 1/4 inch hole near the ends of the pipe. How 
can I make sure that I have the holes in perfect alignment and centered on 
the pipe? When completed I can just attach it to the side of the saw and 
slide the miter gauge inside.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Error installing talk client

[Ray Boyce]

Hi

Here is the help link for assistance.

http://www.vipconduit.com/ctform.php?nick=VIP%20Conduit%20Helpdesk

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alan & Terrie Robbins
Sent: Monday, 18 January 2010 11:49 AM
To: Blindhandyman
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Error installing talk client

 

  

I'm all registered with VIP for the new blind handyman chat
room but when I go to install the required talk client, I
get the following error message.

graphic 329 C:\Program Files\VIP Communicator
2\Client\vcomjfw.exe
EInOutError: Invalid filename
Input file name is vcomcfg2.JCF.
Output file name is C:\Documents and Settings\Alan
Robbins\Application Data\Free
dom
Scientific\JAWS\11.0\Settings\VoiceProfiles.INI\vcomcfg2.JCF
.
Press any key to continue.

Anyone experienced this and if so what did you do?

thanks
Al





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife

[Ray Boyce]

Hi William

I will see if these are available out here when I go to the Tool Warehouse
next time

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of William Stephan
Sent: Sunday, 17 January 2010 10:14 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife

 

  

Ray: I've had any number of these utility tools over the years, and I'd say
Leatherman is the best out there. I have a Leatherman Wave, which 

Has a standard knife, serrated knife, saw and double-sided file/ruler
available without opening the tool. Upon opening the tool you of course
have pliers and wire cutters, and a wide-bladed screwdriver, a Phillips
screw driver a lanyard ring and a combination bottle/can opener on one side,
and cyzors, two narrower screw driver blades and an awl on the other.

The outside blades do lock, but the inner ones do not, though they're
pretty stiff and the likelihood of accidentally closing them is probably
pretty low.

I also have the Leatherman Super tool II, which I would say is somewhat
more ruggedly constructed than the Wave is. You have to open the Super Tool
II to access any tools however. When you open the body, just like the Wave,
you have the standard plyers/cutters, and there is a Phillips head screw
driver, seraded knife, saw, comination bottle can opener and narrow-bladed
screw driver on one side. The other side of the tool has a standard knife,
double-sided file, one wide and one medium screw driver blade. 

So I guess the bottom line is that you sacrifice the cyzers for the heavier
duty construction with the Super Tool. I used to hang out wit some dog
mushes and other Alaskan types at various times, and they seemed to prefer
the Super Tool style. It's pretty easy to adjust the blade torque (I guess
that's what we'd call it), on the Super Tool, but I think you'd haee to have
some kind of specialty driver to do that on the Wave, if it's even possible.

Tgese are not cheap by any means, and I once bought some knock-offs made by
Nickelson. I actually broke the plyers on two of those, so I guess the
steel they were made of was inferior.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 15:58
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife

Hi All

I am looking around for an all purpose knife with multiple attachments on
it, got any ideas what is the best.

Ray

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

I am looking around for an all purpose knife with multiple   attachments on
it, got any ideas what is the best.

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room is Now Open

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

The blind handy man room on Vip Conduit is now open if you want to stop in
and say good day.

Ray

http://www.vipconduit.com/mem-users.php



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room on VIP Conduit

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

The blind handy Man room on VIP Conduit is now ready for us to  utilise so
please join and come on in.

I have the link for the form  you must fill in before becoming a member the
link is at the bottom of this message.

http://www.vipconduit.com/joinform.shtml



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Fixing Our Garage Door

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well we narrowly escaped an accident ready to happened.

As I opened one of the tilt doors on our garage yesterday I noticed it
opened differently.

After inspection I noticed that the pivot bolt in the middle of the arms on
one side was ready to break off.

There is an arm coming down from the top into a bracket on the inside of the
door jamb then a smaller arm down to the large coil spring.

It works just like your elbow bending and then straightening each time the
door is opened and closed. 

 I had to take both arms off plus the bracket which are all joined together
because of  the pivot bolt  being welded in 

 Then drill out the weld on the back of the pivot bolt,  cut some small
steel channel to go inside this area and using a half inch bolt replace the
mechanism back into place.

This happened on the other side some time ago so it is time I think to
replace both doors soon.

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Handy Man Room on VIP Conduit

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Blaine

Anyone is welcome

Ray

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Blaine Deutscher
Sent: Thursday, 14 January 2010 8:32 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Handy Man Room on VIP Conduit

 

  

this is a free site to join? I was just listening to the audio totorial of 
the website and it never mentioned if it costs. It mentioned that if you 
want to purchase a site membership you can plus get credet for other people 
joining the site. Is this site strictly for the blind handy man or are other

topics of discussion mentioned here?

Blaine
- Original Message - 
From: Ray Boyce
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 1:40 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Handy Man Room on VIP Conduit

Hi Everyone

There is now a Handy Man Room on VIP Conduit now open all you have to do is
join, and have a microphone

so we can speak to each other.

I have put the link at the bottom of this message so please join and use
this room as a communication via speech to now hear what we sound like.

Many thanks to the Board for approving this room so it is up to you now to
utilise it, to spread our friendship and talk about those projects which we
are having problems with or just help others with problems finishing those
outstanding.

So here is the link.

http://www.vipconduit.com/index.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Handy Man Room on VIP Conduit

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Everyone

There is now a Handy Man Room on VIP Conduit now open all you have to do is
join, and have a microphone

so we can speak to each other.

I have put the link at the bottom of this message so please join and use
this room as a communication via speech to now hear what we sound like.

Many thanks to the Board for approving this room so it is up to you now to
utilise it, to spread our friendship and talk about those projects which we
are having problems with or just help others with problems finishing those
outstanding.

So here is the link.

http://www.vipconduit.com/index.html 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Lenny
I would get the computer checked out, if a problem did happened the code
will show up on the computer indicating that particular part is a problem.
Or you can ask a question on line here
http://www.justanswer.com/car/dodge?r=ppc|ga|4|Cars|Dodge&JCRN=Dodge+Mechani
cs&JPKW=dodge%202003&JPDC=S&JPST=&JPAD=3197640480&JPAF=txt&JPCD=20090212-1&J
PRC=1&gclid=CMGwzt6GmZ8CFQIupAodu2jvJQ


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Sunday, 10 January 2010 3:24 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

Earlier this evening my wife was driving home. For a few seconds the gauges 
on the car went nuts. The speed odometer went up to 80 and then back to 50, 
the gas gauge dropped and the light went on. The temp went way up and then 
back to normal. It is on a 2003 grand caravan. When all of the gauges went 
nuts itonly lasted a few seconds. Wondering if this is because something in 
ghe computer or electrical is starting to fail or if some rf got into the 
system.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

[BlindHandyMan] Another battery tester

[Ray Boyce]

Hi 

Here is another one.

1.EZ
  TEST BATTERY TESTER (MODELS 1-03968-00 & 1-03969-00)
The EZ Test Battery Testeris an audible or audible and vibrating battery
tester designed for use by individuals who are blind or deaf blind or who
have low vision. The tester is available in an audible version (model
1-03968-00) that reports battery status by beeps, and an audible/tactile
version (model 1-03969-00) that reports battery status by vibrations and
beeps. A flexible testing wire allows for testing of 1.5-volt batteries,
including AAA, AA, C, and D batteries. Also included are two contacts for
testing 9-volt batteries. The unit comes with instructions in print,
braille, and on cassette. An attached elastic band holds testing wire while
the unit is stored. POWER: Uses 2 triple-A batteries. DIMENSIONS: 4.5 x 1.1
x 0.6 inches. WARRANTY: One year.

http://www.abledata.com/abledata.cfm?pageid=113582&orgid=113465



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Audible and Visual Battery Tester

[Ray Boyce]

Hi 

Try here

http://www.maxiaids.com/store/prodView.asp?idproduct=3466&idstore=6&product=
Audible-and-Visual-Battery-Tester



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] How do you remove rust stains from a toilet bowl

[Ray Boyce]

I found this on the Web so you can try some of these.

 There are at least two commercial products available in hardware stores for
removing rust stains. One is 

 
 Iron Out of Iron Out, Inc., 1515 Dividend Rd., Fort Wayne, IN 46808-1126.
I've had very good results on a number of occasions with this. Another is
ZUD Cleanser a product of Boyle-Midway Inc., New York, NY 10017 that I have
also used successfully. 

A homemade receipe for a cleanser is to sprinkle "cream of tartar" over the
stain then cover the cream of tartar with paper towels. Next saturate the
paper towel with hydrogen peroxide and allow it to soak. 

I found the following in "Formulas, Methods, Tips and Data for Home and
Workshop" by Popular Science and Kenneth M. Swezey. 

 

 Formulas, Methods, tips and data
 Iron and rust stains that are fresh can usually be wiped off or washed
off with household detergent solution. More stubborn fresh stains may be
removed with fine pumice powder or mild scouring powder and water. If the
stain has gone deeper, sprinkle with sodium hydrosulfite powder (the
dye-remover chemical sold with some packaged household dyes), dampen the
powder, and leave for not more than half an hour. Follow right away with a
solution of sodium citrate. Repeat the sequence, if necessary. Finally, wash
with water and dry. This treatment works by changing colored insoluble salts
into colorless soluble ones that can be washed away. It may, however, dull
polished surfaces somewhat, possibly necessitating repolishing. 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Connecting your Lap Top to Your Television

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dan 

Here is an article telling you how to go about it

Please see url below.

http://sewelldirect.com/articles/connecting-your-pc-to-your-tv.aspx

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] question about wood filler

[Ray Boyce]

Hi 

Good article on fillers found here.

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/fillers.shtml

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kevin Doucet
Sent: Wednesday, 6 January 2010 8:18 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question about wood filler

 

  

Hi list,

I have a part of a piano which has a place on the edge of the fall 
board, "part of the piano which closes and covers the keys" that has 
broken away. This is at a screw whole.

I will need to build this place up with some sort of wood filler or 
plastic wood or something then re drill a screw whole. Now this 
filled in place will be visible when the "fall board" is raised.

So my question, or two questions are;

1. what do I need to fill in this place to be strong enough to drill 
a pilot whole and put a screw in?

2. Will touch up pencels work to cover the newly replaced surface, 
allowing I can get the right color of touch up pencel or pencels? I 
know touch up penceles work on real wood but what about on wood fillers?
I am about to run out. I have a ride coming, so, if you can respond 
quickly I would appreciate it.

Thanks.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Special Happy Birthday

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dave

I also would like to wish you a happy birthday have lots of fun.

Ray

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of David Ferrin
Sent: Wednesday, 6 January 2010 2:47 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Special Happy Birthday

 

  

Thanks, I already called miss Harris to tell her to stop picking on the soon

to be elderly.
David Ferrin
www.jaws-users.com
Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Gallik" mailto:BillGallik%40centurytel.net> >
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Special Happy Birthday

David 21? Yep, your right Cathy.

David was born the same year as I was so that makes me only 20 years old. 
Ah yes, life is goo'oo'oo'oo'oo'oo'oo'ood!

Holland's Person, Bill
E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net  
- The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
 
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster

&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list

just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo
 ! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Designing a different type of Jockey Wheel

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well we found on our last holidays that we had to dig a hole for the jockey
wheel so we could get the caravan level from front  to back.

So I had a spare mule type jockey wheel which I removed the eight inch solid
rubber wheel and the bolt on outer hub.

I then cut off both the vertical yoke arms which held on the wheel, which
then left me with a flat piece  of steel welded onto the adjustable stem.

Now I drilled two holes through this flat piece of steel which matched two
opposite holes in the hub I took off the wheel.

Then bolted this hub onto this, so now I have an  adjustable stem with a six
inch diameter disc on the bottom.

As this area we camp on is very sandy I also cut a piece of wood  so if it
sinks into the sand to much I can place the wood underneath giving a wider
surface area for support.

You also have to take pieces of wood so if the caravan is not level from
side to side place these under the tire on one side .

This may involve jacking up the van on that side then placing the wood
underneath.

Once in position lock on the manual brake so it does not move then drop the
corner supports so it is solid or as solid as possible.

I cut some 12 x 2 hardwood up 14 inches long and  cut some bevels on each
end with my power planer, then painted them so they clean up easier after
use. 

I always take along a sprit level so we have the caravan perfectly level,
and the fridge manufacturer  recommends that for maximum performance this is
so.

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] pop up camper

[Ray Boyce]

Hi lenny

Well the money you can spend on caravans is endless for example we were at
the Caravan Show last year in Sydney.

WE passed this  large motor home which was worth 750,000 and I said to my
wife no one has the money to buy one of these.

But there was a couple talking to a salesman inside. 

We looked inside another and there was a little boy inside.

He said if I buy one of these today his sister goes with it, apparently he
had had enough of her.

This cracked us up I can tell you.

Ray

  

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Saturday, 2 January 2010 9:07 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pop up camper

 

  

Ray, thanks for the tip. Itwas a new one last year, I found it hard to 
believe that it costs $18,000.
- Original Message - 
From: "Ray Boyce" mailto:rayb101%40westnet.com.au>
>
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 4:58 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] pop up camper

Hi Lenny
I suggest you or the owner contact the pop top manufacturer to see what is
available.
For if the pop top is new you may void the life time warranty if it was
purchased new.
Explain what is the problem and a solution could be available.
I have just purchased my second caravan this one is a pop top with a manual
roll out awning, I am sure if this is his problem there is an electric model
available.
I sold the first caravan because it had a wind up roof and the double beds
has to be pulled out and support legs placed underneath.
This was fine on good weather but no good when raining.
Now with the new one we can get inside straight awayand just pop up the
rooffrom inside.
Good luck resolving this problem.
Ray

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Saturday, 2 January 2010 8:07 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pop up camper

I know it is a little too early to talk about camping. Just have an idea for

a friend. Last year they traded their fifth-wheel unit on a popup because of

medical problems. With his heart condition it was too difficult to set up
that unit. The pop-up unit has power lift. Now the problem is that the pull
out sides are not powered and he can not set them up. His daughter hurt her

back and now can not help him. I am wondering if a jin pole and 12v winch
would work for pulling out the sides? It might also be possible to set up
the winch to pull the sides back in place. Any thoughts?
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.



Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com> 
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster
<http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_
p> &PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo
<mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo> ! Groups Links



Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com> 
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster
<http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_
page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29>
&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page a

RE: [BlindHandyMan] pop up camper

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Lenny
I suggest you or the owner contact the pop top manufacturer to see what is
available.
For if the pop top is new you may void the life time warranty if it was
purchased new.
Explain what is the problem and a solution could be available.
I have just purchased my second caravan this one is a pop top with a manual
roll out awning, I am sure if this is his problem there is an electric model
available.
I sold the first caravan because it had a wind up roof and the double beds
has to be pulled out and support legs placed underneath.
This was fine on good weather but no good when raining.
Now with the new one we can get inside straight awayand just pop up the
rooffrom inside.
Good luck resolving this problem.
Ray

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Saturday, 2 January 2010 8:07 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pop up camper

I know it is a little too early to talk about camping. Just have an idea for

a friend. Last year they traded their fifth-wheel unit on a popup because of

medical problems. With his heart condition it was too difficult to set up 
that unit. The pop-up unit has power lift. Now the problem is that the pull 
out sides are not powered and he can not set them up. His daughter hurt  her

back and now can not help him. I am wondering if a jin pole and 12v winch 
would work for pulling out the sides?  It might also be possible to set up 
the  winch to pull the sides back in place. Any thoughts?
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

[BlindHandyMan] How do I Clean gas logs

[Ray Boyce]

Hi

I have included a range of questions and answers about gas logs.

How Do I Clean Gas Logs? 
If you desire, a good way to do some light cleaning on gas logs is to brush
them with a soft-bristled brush or duster. You should not remove gas logs
from the burner or from the fireplace. Scrubbing or using water or other
solvents is not advisable, as these can remove the paint and bark texture.
If you do brush your gas logs, be sure that they are at room temperature.

What Is the Difference Between Vented Gas Logs and Ventless Gas Logs?
The primary difference between vented gas logs and ventless gas logs is that
ventless gas logs can be operated with the chimney damper closed, which
keeps significantly more heat in your 

home. Ventless gas logs provide warmth before ambiance. 

Vented gas logs provide a flame that looks more similar to a wood fire
flame, but the chimney damper must be opened during operation. Vented gas
logs provide a more appealing flame and stronger ambient firelight. 

Why Buy a Gas Log? 
Gas logs deliver the warm and cozy ambiance of real fire in the fireplace
without all the preparation, maintenance, and cleanup that real wood fires
demand. Many people would love to have a real wood fire in the hearth after
a long day, but time constraints make all the necessary work quite an
ordeal. Gas logs eliminate the hassle. 

Gas logs provide stunning realism, warmth, ambiance and safety features that
will put your mind at ease. Gas logs are also affordable to add to an
existing fireplace or to install in ventless versions. You can also use a
gas log as a back-up heating source during power failures because they
require no electricity. 

What Type of Fuel Do I Use with Gas Logs? 
Gas logs are available for use with natural gas or with liquid propane.
Natural gas logs are the most popular option and they typically generate
more heat than liquid propane gas logs. Propane gas logs are generally used
only in places where natural gas is not available. 

How Do I Get the Right Size Gas Log? 
You will need to measure your fireplace to get the right size gas log. Check
the size of your fireplace, which you can determine by measuring the width,
depth, and height. Gas logs should not fit too tightly along the side and
back walls. 

How Much Do Gas Logs Cost to Install? 
There is no standard cost for installing gas logs. The cost of installing
gas logs depends on the market, and varies with the particular job and
installer. The degree of difficulty and the amount of time it takes to
install the gas line and the gas log are the primary determinants of
installation cost. It is highly recommended that you use only professionals
who are certified to install gas logs. 

How Much Do Gas Logs Cost to Operate? 
The cost of operating gas logs again varies from market to market, depending
on the cost of the gas itself. The BTU (British Thermal Unit) output of any
given gas log determines how much fuel it will use. Contact your local gas
company if you want specific information regarding current gas costs. If you
provide them with the BTU information from your gas log, they should be able
to calculate the cost of operation. 

Are the Flames on Gas Logs Adjustable? 
Whether or not a gas log has adjustable flame depends on the model.
Typically, gas logs do not have adjustable flames. Look for rotary control
valve options if you want a gas log with adjustable flames. 

What Are ANSI Standards, and How Do I Know If My Gas Log Meets Them? 
The ANSI is the American National Standards 
Institute, and they maintain strict standards for ventless gas logs and many
other products. All the products we sell comply with the ANSI Standards for
gas logs, standard Z 21.11.2. 

Can I Burn Wood Along with My Gas Log? 
No. Never attempt to supplement a gas log fire by adding anything, including
wood, to a gas log. This creates additional heat that can damage gas logs
and invalidate your warranty. 

Do I Need a Carbon Monoxide Detector with Gas Logs? 
Whether you have gas logs in your home or not, you should still have a
Carbon Monoxide Detector. All energy sources can produce Carbon Monoxide,
which is why a detector is recommended. 

What Are Some Control and Safety Options for My Gas Log? 
Control and safety options vary on gas logs. Base models include controls
inside the fireplace. These are typically knobs that are turned to ignite
the gas logs. Some gas logs can be controlled by remote control or wall
switch for convenient operation. Others can be controlled by thermostat or
timer to enhance efficiency. Check the details of the gas logs you are
interested in to help you decide on the right controls. 

What Is the Difference Between Standard and See-Through Gas Logs? 
Standard gas logs are for standard, front-view fireplaces. See-through style
gas logs are specifically designed for multi-sided fireplaces. These gas
logs have a special burner system that directs the fire in such a way that
it looks appealing and n

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dan

It is extremely hot outside and you certainly do not want to  be near a fire
more like stay inside in the air conditioning.

All the best from down under.

Ray

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Thursday, 24 December 2009 3:29 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

 

  

And a very merry Christmas to you Ray, down under. Are you all snug by 
the fire drinking hot chocolate with your stocking cap on?

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu  
Tel: (412) 268-9081





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Everyone

It is Christmas Eve here in Australia so I would like to Wish Everyone a
Merry Christmas and a Happy New year.

All the Best 

Regards

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] How Screw Compressors Work

[Ray Boyce]

Two screws in a rotary screw compressor are used to compress the gas. This
works by driving the screws through a set of synchronized gears. Basically,
it works by compressing the gas by means of reducing the clearance between
the threads. The gas then exits through the screw ends.

This mechanism is only as effective as the clearances between the rotors,
called helicals, and the sealing of the open chamber, or compression
cavities.

Rotary screw compressors do not require spring suspension, because of their
compact design and smooth running, and also do not have any vibration
associated with them. Together, this cuts down on maintenance and noise.
Many of the models actually have elastomer vibration isolating mounts to
absorb vibrations, especially those models that operate at high-end speeds.

Though you can find consumer-grade models, there are typically used in
commercial settings, general industrial application-based use. They are
typically used to power heavy construction machinery.

Many wonder what the difference is between oil-free and oil-flooded
compressors. The oil-free models are simply compressed air charged through
from the action of the screws without the assistance of an oil seal. These
units typically have a lower psi discharge and more suited for low-end jobs
or consumer-grade models. There are other oil-free units that produce a
large psi, with outputs of over 2000 cubic feet per minute. These such units
have multi-stage sets of screws. Though they are oil-free, they are not
contaminant-free machines, and still require filtration, as hydrocarbons and
other contaminants find their way to the outside air.

Oil-flooded type rotary screw compressors can have a higher level of
compressed air psi. for sealing, and to provide cooling for the gas charge,
oil-flooded units have oil injected into the cavities, though it is
separated from the discharge stream when cooled. It is then filtered and
recycled back into the unit. To combat the effect of oil carrying through
the air pressure, there are two solutions... one being a filter, or coalesce
vessels. The other method to capture the leaked oil is to allow the oil to
be condense and driven out of the air stream via condensate management
equipment. A basic oil-flooded compressor can achieve pressures over 1500
cubic feet per minute.

In most models, you can find a variable speed drive, which allows one to
adjust the air flow.

Another such rotary unit is called the supercharger. The advantages of this
model is low leakage levels and low parasitic losses, versus typical
roots-type units.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Metal Roofs Questions and Answer

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Try this Link below

http://www.americanmetalroofs.com/content/resources/faq.cfm



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] How to Hang a Wall Hanging

[Ray Boyce]

Step 1 -- Choose a location

We find it is best to choose a location;> 

*   Brightly lit, but not in direct sunlight
*   On a wall that contrasts in shade and/or color with the wallhanging
*   Where the wall hanging can be seen from a distance and up close
*   Away from heat or air conditioning ducts

 

Some suggestions: 

*   On a foyer wall
*   On a wall near your dining or kitchen table
*   On the wall behind a sofa
*   On the wall above a bed's header board

 

Step 2 -- Choose hanging treatment

Rectangular wall hangings can be hung using decorative rods (where the rod
is intended to be seen), or hung so that only the wallhanging is seen. The
choice is personal and is certainly influenced by the style of your home's
decor.

Most non-rectangular wall hangings (such as double wedding rings) cannot be
hung with rods.

Specialty quilt hangers can be used for hanging wall hanging size quilts,
but while these devices are good for hanging large quilts, they are not
needed to hang small quilts. They tend to hide the top couple of inches of
the quilt they are holding, which isn't a problem with a bed quilt, but can
be witha smaller quilt. They are also much more expensive than using a rod.

 

Step 3a - Hanging with a rod

Hanging rods can be purchased at any store that sells drapery hardware
(building supply stores, department stores, drapery shops).Ask for cafe
rods. Adjustable length metal rods with various finishes are available and
range in price from less than $10 to as much as $30. Wooden drapery poles
can also be used, which are available in a variety of finishes with
decorative finials (the fancy end-pieces). These finished rods come with
mounting hardware. If you are so inclined, you may wish to make and finish
your own rod by purchasing a dowel rod (about1/2 inch diameter) and finials.

Many of our wall hangings include sleeves or tabs for hanging rods. 

You, of course, may add your own tabs to a wall hanging, if you are not
comfortable with sewing you can add tabs made from fabric ribbons (one inch
wide andthree inches long) attached to the back of the wall hanging with
safety pins as shown below.
how to use a safety pin and ribbon

 

Step 3b - Hanging without a rod

Believe it or not, the Amish solution is Velcro! Velcro is available at most
fabric stores and hardware stores. Velcro self-adhesive Velcro tabs (or
strips) can be attached to the top back edge of your wall hanging (with the
adhesive, or hand sew, or if you prefer with straightpins).

 

velcro

 

The corresponding Velcro tabs can be directly attached to the wall.
Alternatively, for a rectangular wall hanging, the tabs can be attached to a
wooden strip and the wooden strip hung on the wall with a nail. The strip
should be approximately2 inches wide, 1/2 inch thick, and long enough to
reach across the back of your wall hanging and long enough to reach across
the back of your wall hanging.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Description of Hand Planes

[Ray Boyce]

A low angle block plane This is probably the first plane to get for most
people. There are a lot of things you can do with a block plane, such as
cutting small bevels and fitting drawers. Unfortunately, the low cutting
angle can cause tearout in figured hardwoods. But it is superior for
softwoods and endgrain of all woods. A version with an adjustable mouth is
the most flexible. Both Lie-Nielsen and Veritas currently make them. The
Stanley #60-1/2 is the most common version. 

A jack plane In terms of metallic planes there are three basic types:
smoothers, jacks, and jointers. The jack is Mr. Inbetween. It is almost
short enough to do a good job smoothing, and in fact there are those who
prefer its heft and length for smoothing. On the other hand, it is almost
long enough to do a good job straightening. In fact, you can do just as good
a job straightening a face or edge with a jack plane as you can with a
jointer, but it takes more workmanship to be able to do it. The #5 jack
plane has been the mainstay of carpenters for ages. Many people these days
prefer the wider and heavier #5-1/2, but it is less common and more
expensive. 

A large smooth plane The #4 smooth plane is probably the most commonly used
plane of all. Personally, I would not select a #4 as my only bench plane
because one of its most common uses would be for straightening edges, and a
#5 does a better job of that. 

A low-angle jack or smooth plane Although I do not have much experience with
these planes, the favorable things I keep hearing about them from people I
respect make them sound like a viable choice. Although Stanley made the #164
low-angle smoother and #62 low-angle jack plane, they are both rare and
expensive. Both Lie-Nielsen and Veritas now make these planes. They are
mechanically simpler than standard bench planes, making these low-angle
versions a little less expensive from those expensive marks. Their
proponents say that by equipping them with an additional iron or two with
the bevel ground at a higher angle you can make them perform excellently to
smooth hardwood surfaces. The stock iron angles are good for softwoods and
rough work. If so, one of these planes with two or three blades sharpened
differently could well come close to being a universal bench plane. I want
to emphasize that I do not have enough personal experience with these planes
to be comfortable recommending them myself. 

Two planes 

A low angle block plane plus a jack or large smooth plane The jack or
smoother can be either regular-angle or low-angle. If it were me I'd choose
the jack plane as the sole bench plane. In fact, that's what I did years
ago. Dad had only two planes his whole life, a cheap little #102 block plane
and a #5 jack plane. Those are the planes I learned on. 

Three planes 

A low angle block plane, a #4 or #4-1/2 smooth plane, and a #7 or #8 jointer
For this option, where you can have two bench planes, it makes sense to pick
one of the smaller ones and one of the larger ones and leave the Mr.
Inbetween jack plane out. The difficulty that gives you is that since both
smooth and jointer planes are used for fine to medium work, you have nothing
to handle rough work and large amounts of stock removal. However, unless you
flatten and thickness rough wood by hand, you should be able to do with any
roughing planes. An interesting thing to note about this three-plane
solution is that you can't get here from the two-plane solution unless you
chose a #4 or #4-1/2 as your only bench plane. 

Five planes 

Add a #40 scrub and a #5 or #5-1/2 jack plane to the above three-plane
suggestion. To save money, an old #3 or #4 can be converted for use as a
scrub plane by opening its mouth wide and grinding a pronounced curve on the
cutting edge. These additional two planes, especially the #40, are only
needed if you are flattening and thicknessing rough lumber by hand.
Lie-Nielsen currently makes a scrub plane, and I understand that Veritas
will be adding one to their line in 2005. To me, though, the absolutely best
scrub plane available is the wooden one still being made by ECE. As a bonus,
it only costs about half as much as the Lie-Nielsen and Veritas ones. 

  _  

Plane Numbers And Types 

The numbers are Stanley model numbers. They go from 1 to 608 and mostly
there is little or no rhyme or reason except for three oases of rational
thought. The planes usually have the model number on them somewhere, but not
always. The importance of the Stanley numbers is that they originated the
system and over the years sold more planes than all of their competitors
many times over. Over the years their Bailey and Bed Rock planes have been
of consistently high quality for the time, so that they are both easy to
find used and desirable as user planes because of their trustworthy quality.
Stanley has also had several lower quality lines, such as Handyman, that are
not good potential users. The three rational oases are: 

#1 - #8 are bench planes--what most people 

[BlindHandyMan] Caulks and Adhesives the latest News

[Ray Boyce]

Polyseamseal EST Speed Seal

Henkel Corporation's new Polyseamseal EST Speed Seal is a 100-percent
silicone kitchen and bath sealant that is shower-ready only two hours after
application. Featuring enhanced silicone technology (EST), the
ultra-fast-dry system is ideal when quick use of bathrooms and kitchens is
essential, such as in the 53 percent of U.S. homes with 1-1/2 bathrooms or
less. Many competitive sealants require a 4- to 36-hour waiting period
before water exposure (www.polyseamseal.com 
). 

DAP 3.0 Advanced Sealants

The new line of DAP 3.0 Advanced Sealants features DAP's Kwik Dry Technology
enabling the sealants to be exposed to water in just three hours without
washing out. For outdoor applications, this also means not having to wait
for ideal weather conditions to undertake a project. The DAP 3.0 lineup
includes five distinct options for concrete, gutters, roofs, kitchens and
more. Mold and mildew resistant, the 3.0 sealants offer superior
paintability and are easier to tool and less stringy than silicone. 

GE Silicone II

The new GE Silicone II product line is made of 100-percent premium silicone
and, like the DAP 3.0 sealants, the Silicone II sealants are water-ready in
only three hours. Plus, a paintable formula is ready for paint in just 30
minutes. The permanent flexibility of the silicone keeps it from breaking
down so it can protect a home as the seasons change and joints expand and
contract. 

The new GE sealants come with 5-year mold-free product protection that helps
keep the cured caulk mold- and mildew-free and looking clean for five years,
with regular cleaning. At the time of publication, the Silicone II sealant
was the first and only caulk to attain the NAHB Research Center National
Green Building Certification.

The SMART Prime and Repair System

The SMART Prime and Repair System from Gardner-Gibson provides a healthier
solution for priming, caulking and patching walls with a new zero-VOC,
virtually odorless formula. The three products in the system include SMART
Elastomeric Caulk & Sealant, SMART Stain-Hide Primer/Sealer and SMART
Non-Shrink Wall Fix Spackling. The new family of products helps preserve
healthy indoor air quality with no harmful chemicals or noxious odors. In
doing so, the SMART products also address the growing trend of people with
asthma, allergies and other breathing conditions at home and in the
workplace. "SMART products are perfect to prepare walls while people are
still working or living in the spaces," says Morton Jones, director of
research and development for Gardner-Gibson. "It's almost turned painting
into an 'invisible process' with no odors."

EcoGlue Extreme Adhesive & Sealant

For the green-minded handyman, EcoGlue Extreme from Eclectic Products is a
high-performance polyether with moisture-cure technology that is 100-percent
solids, solvent-free and contains less than 2-percent VOC. It's
environmentally friendly without sacrificing strength, providing "instant
grab" adhesion on a wide variety of substrates for a lasting weather-tight
seal, even in difficult wet-application conditions. EcoGlue Extreme is
suitable for both vertical and overhead applications and can be painted
after 24 hours. It contains no odor and is safe to use indoors or in
confined spaces. Eclectic Products also offers EcoGlue Premium Wood
Adhesive.

Gorilla Glue Impact-Tough Epoxy

The makers of Gorilla Glue now offer a new Gorilla Epoxy with high impact
resistance and an uncommonly strong bond in a formula that takes only five
minutes to set. Many quick-setting epoxies create a brittle bond, requiring
jobs to be re-done. The new epoxy formula utilizes urethane hybrid
technology to improve overall strength and flexibility for a permanent fix
the first time. The low-VOC two-part epoxy comes in a single-plunger,
dual-tube applicator to easily extrude equal parts of the product so the
user can easily mix them together to begin the curing process. The Gorilla
formula bonds steel, wood, aluminum, ceramic and more.

DAP Pro Caulk Tool Kit

Applying caulks and sealants is typically messy and time consuming. But with
the new DAP Pro Caulk caulking tools you can seal like a professional in
minutes. The kit contains four tools with a variety of edge sizes and
shapes. There's a tool for smoothing larger joints and a tool for smaller
joints and grouting tile. Also included is a mini-tool for smoothing joints
in hard to reach places, as well as a caulk-removal tool. To use the Pro
Caulk system, simply select the tool according to the size of the joint
being sealed and the finish desired. Applying even pressure, quickly slide
the tool along the joint for a perfect finish. DAP Pro Caulk tools are made
from DuraFlex and are easy to clean with water or mild dishwashing
detergent.

Amazing Goop Anti-Skid Epoxy with Grit

Amazing Goop is a line of high-performance adhesives for a wide array of
uses. Now available is the Amazing Goop Anti-Skid Epoxy with Grit,

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Aliening a saw blade when ripping

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Max

Well you could use a pair of inside callipers, a depth gauge,  or your
combination square if the distance required is not to excessive.

Ray

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Agent086b
Sent: Saturday, 5 December 2009 11:54 AM
To: Handyman
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping

 

  

Hi all,
the earlier question and answers got me thinking. When ripping I find it 
hard to measure from the fence to the saw blade accurately.
What wonderful answers can we get to this one.
Thanks as always for the help.
Max.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Thanks Betsy

[Ray Boyce]

Aloha Betsy

Thanks I have saved the entire lists for future use

Ray 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Installation of Windows 7 and Jaws 11

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well the installation of windows 7 went ok but there is a 20 digit product
code which you have to enter which has to be,  number and letter perfect so
be careful. 

Getting Jaws to run outside of 40 minute mode was another question.

What we found was that although authorising it after restarting it reverted
back  to asking for authorising it again and also said that there was a Jaws
file missing.

The only way we could overcome this was delete all Jaws and associated files
off the computer and then reloading Jaws 11 again.

We had to ask Freedomscientific for more keys which was no problem but at
last it restarts without any problems.

So now I have Windows 7 and jaws 11 running it seems successfully, all I
have to do now is make a mirror image of it all on my USB hard drive.

Ray 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] personal mobility vehiclesComing Soon

[Ray Boyce]

Toyota's radical iReal has been described as Apple's vision of a wheelchair
and could be on sale in Japan within "four to five years", its project
manager, Makoto Morita, says.

With a top speed of 30km/h and the ability to lower its centre of gravity
and lean into corners, the three-wheeled iReal would cost "between the price
of a bike and a small car".

Honda's U3-X unicycle is just 65 centimetres high and looks like a
futuristic pogo stick designed by Dyson. In place of a seat, it has a pair
of pads to support the buttocks.

In common with the Segway and Honda's Asimo robot, which can shake hands,
walk up stairs and even run, the U3-X has balance technology: the pedal on
each side not only supports the rider's feet but also monitors changes in
weight distribution. Lean on one pedal and the unicycle counterbalances and
steers in that direction.

Honda says: "The compact one-wheel structure of the U3-X puts the rider at
approximately the same height as when walking and allows motion in every
direction . without the need to turn the vehicle. Incorporating balance
technology from the Asimo bipedal humanoid robot, the U3-X maintains an
upright position by imitating human walking, in which a person tends to step
into the direction of a fall to retain balance."

Suzuki is taking the personal mobility concept further by introducing a
zero-emission electric wheelchair.

The Fuel Cell Senior Car uses a methanol mix, carried in a tank under the
seat, to generate electricity through a fuel cell to power the vehicle's
electric motor.

Suzuki says the wheelchair has a range of 60 kilometres at an average speed
of 6km/h.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] For those of Us that use Jaws.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Lee

I have installed Jaws 11 yesterday which is working well. We have ordered
Windows 7 and will test it when it arrives and I hope it all works well.

Ray

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
Sent: Tuesday, 20 October 2009 7:20 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] For those of Us that use Jaws.

 

  


is the new windows 7 going to work well with jaws. some already have 
it, wondows 7 but it is being released across the land via 
microsoft on the 22nd or 23 rd. this week. Lee

On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 
02:54:54PM +1100, 
Ray Boyce 
wrote:
> Hi All
> 
> For those of us that use Jaws to write these messages and are licence to
run
> Jaws 11 it is ready to download at U
> 
> RL below
> 
> http://www.freedomscientific.com/downloads/jaws/jaws-downloads.asp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
"It's a summons."
"What's a summons?"
"It means summon's in trouble."
-- Rocky and Bullwinkle
.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] For those of Us that use Jaws.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

For those of us that use Jaws to write these messages and are licence to run
Jaws 11 it is ready to download at U

RL below

http://www.freedomscientific.com/downloads/jaws/jaws-downloads.asp

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] FYI: Cool Wall Paint

[Ray Boyce]

Aloha Betsy

A good bit of research here,  sounds like everyone should be painting  their
homes with this Paint.

Thanks

Ray 

  

 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
Sent: Monday, 12 October 2009 12:38 AM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FYI: Cool Wall Paint

 

  


>Aloha everyone,
I wrote earlier wondering if anyone knew anything 
about this cool-wall paint, and we all kind of 
agreed that it sounded like snake oil. However, 
now that my friend has painted her house with 
this paint, I'm beginning to believe that it 
really does keep things cooler. Surprisingly, 
just touching the outside wall that had the paint 
applied and then touching another area that was 
not painted, I could literally feel that the 
cool-wall painted area was noticeably cooler. She 
also used it on her deck and in the hottest part 
of the day, I didn't wish I had foot covers on. 
Anyway, I send the following item describing the product FYI.
Betsy

>Building News - 2006
>
>Textured Coatings Innovative Coating System Keeps Homes Cooler
>
>For every homeowner who has struggled to find 
>ways to hold down the cost of air conditioning without
>sacrificing comfort, recent tests by the U.S. 
>Department of Energy offer promising results. Recently
>completed tests at the Oak Ridge National 
>Laboratory showed that an innovative exterior coating
>system from Textured Coatings of America Inc. 
>can reduce a typical home's air-conditioning costs by
>over 20 percent by actually keeping the home's interior cooler.
>
>The tests conducted for over a year measured the 
>performance of TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET
>Cool WallT premium coatings. The DOE tests found 
>that not only did the product's revolutionary heat
>reflective finish significantly reduce exterior 
>wall temperatures, it also dramatically lowered interior
>temperatures on cement block, stucco and 
>wood-frame homes, according to Jay Haines, TCA's
>president and chief executive officer.
>
>"The DOE tests confirmed that the Cool WallT 
>coating reduced exterior wall temperatures by as
>much as 40 degrees Fahrenheit when compared to 
>traditional paints and coatings in many colors,"
>said Haines. "What's more important is that the 
>test data showed that the Cool Wall coating would
>reduce the interior temperatures as well, and 
>could lower the costs of cooling a typical
>1,100-square-foot ranch-style home by as much as 
>21.9 percent depending on the color chosen,
>substrate type and climatic conditions."
>
>TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET Cool WallT coatings take 
>advantage of the same heat reflective
>technology used by the military to reduce the 
>heat signature of planes and other vehicles, Haines
>explained. Since the increase in reflectivity 
>occurs primarily in the infrared spectrum, it is invisible to
>the naked eye. Yet although the Cool WallT 
>colors may look the same as a traditional finish, the DOE
>tests show that, on average, they are up to 100 
>percent more reflective than the conventional
>technologies.
>
>"A dark-colored home absorbs as much as 90 
>percent of the solar radiation that strikes it, and even
>white walls can absorb solar radiation," Haines 
>noted. "By reflecting this infrared radiation rather than
>absorbing it, the Cool WallT coatings 
>dramatically reduce the load on a home's air-conditioning
>system. And because they are reflective, they 
>are less prone to fading - even dark colors stay darker
>longer than conventional paint technologies."
>
>The most extensive DOE tests were conducted at 
>the Oak Ridge test site in Tennessee, with
>additional tests conducted at actual homes in 
>Jacksonville, Fla., and Phoenix, Ariz.
>
>"Obviously, the savings vary depending on the 
>home's location, as well as its construction type, its
>orientation to the sun, surrounding shade 
>features and so forth," said Haines. "But the DOE tests
>confirmed a measurable and significant 
>difference in the energy required to cool the home in all
>instances."
>
>In addition to energy savings, the tests showed 
>that infrared reflective coatings are significantly more
>fade resistant, even in darker colors, Haines 
>said. The coatings also can reduce stress or "building
>fatigue" by minimizing the expansion and 
>contraction of the home's exterior that occurs during
>extreme fluctuations in temperature. The 
>reflective coatings can also reduce the "heat island" effect
>that causes excessive energy consumption in urban areas.
>
>TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET coatings are 10 times 
>thicker on average than ordinary paint, and can
>withstand an average of 40 years of exterior 
>exposure. After being professionally applied, the product
>is warranted for as long as the homeowner owns the home.
>
>"The SUPER.COTET finish can last for decades 
>without flaking, peeling, or chipping," said Haines.
>"The multi-step process to apply the finish 
>virtually eliminates the need for scraping, sanding, paintin

[BlindHandyMan] Different Types of Levels Available

[Ray Boyce]

Precision Ball Level

One of the more unique leveling tools to hit store shelves in recent years
is the new Precision Ball Level from C.H. Hanson. Based on aviation
technology, the level's inventor was inspired by a video flight simulator
that used a ball-compass to illustrate wing position. Much easier to read
than a standard bubble vial, the large two-toned, 2-inch aviation ball at
the center of the tool rotates 360 degrees and indicates level at first
glance. 

 

Plus, the high visibility of the Precision Ball Level provides additional
advantages, such as providing precise markings on the tool to take accurate
measurements of angle or pitch. Additionally, the casing of the ball
features a cross-hair sightline at a perfect 90 degrees. With the cross-hair
feature, you can turn the level on its back and check for level in two
directions at once. By aligning the small air bubble in the top of the ball
at dead center of the crosshairs, this single tool can check level in
multiple planes, which comes in handy for jobs such as shimming a pool table
perfectly level. The Precision Ball Level is built with rigid aircraft
aluminum and protected at each end with shock-resistant end caps. Learn more
at www.chhanson.com  . 

 

Wood Magnet

Until someone invents some sort of Extra Hand, we'll have to rely on the two
we've got, so it's nice when a new tool comes along that frees up one of
those crucial appendages to more easily complete a project. The Wood Magnet
from Swanson Tools is a lightweight plastic tool that compress-fits over the
edge of a piece of 2-by construction lumber, allowing the user to level it
or use the lumber itself as a level by spanning two points. By clamping onto
the actual board, there's no need for you or a helper to hold or tape the
level in place to prevent it from falling off the lumber. 

This is an excellent time saver for deck building, floor framing, wall
construction, or it can be clamped to a screed board to strike off concrete.
Plus, the Wood Magnet features a built-in rubber band, multidirectional
vials and a V-shaped inset, so it also works vertically as a post level.
With simple, durable construction and a price point of only about eleven
bucks, this makes a nice addition to any toolbox. Learn more at
www.swansontoolco.com  . 

Level Best2

The Level Best2 combines a simple design with multipurpose functionality for
all sorts of home-improvement projects. The tool is basically a durable
square that incorporates level vials to read level and plumb at the same
time along each leg of the right angle. It also features a ruler and pencil
slot to read and mark measurements easily. Selling for only $19.95, the
Level Best2 is an ideal tool from small jobs like hanging a picture to large
jobs such as building a deck. Use it to install door and window frames

http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/mag-glass_10x10.gif, to lay block
foundations, or to install shelving and cabinets. Plus, with standard rise
markings and standard tread markings, it is specifically designed for laying
out staircase stringers. A great choice for the contractor or DIY'er, the
Level Best2 is sold in two sizes, 12-by-12- and 6-by-6-inch, and is
available in three colors, as well as a metric version. Learn more at
www.levelbest2.com  . 

Empire 48" Levels

>From our experience, Empire makes some of the finest levels available, with
solid construction, lightweight and ergonomic design, along with unsurpassed
accuracy of the level vial-guaranteed to 0.00050 per inch in all working
positions. The new e70 Series 48-inch level is a superb contractor-grade
level for applications ranging from floor framing to roof building, and it
comes with a lifetime warranty. It features Empire's trademarked True Blue
level vial, which utilizes a blue tinting to highlight the bubble for faster
and easier reading than the standard yellow.

Empire's new e100 version is a 48-inch level that offers additional
features, including a digital readout and a laser centerline that projects
from the end of the level. The digital component reads slope, pitch and
inch/foot in virtually any light, even when upside-down. It also holds its
digital memory for later reference, and includes an audio button to hear a
beep within one degree of level or plumb. Both the 48-inch Empire levels are
constructed of aircraft aluminum and feature shock-absorbing end caps. On
Amazon.com, the e70 was selling for just under $50 while a new e100 was
going for less than $120. Learn more at www.empirelevel.com
 . 

Kapro 985D Digiman

Kapro's new 985D Digiman strikes a balance between a traditional level and a
full-featured digital level. It features a tough frame and shockproof end
caps to protect it from the rigors of the jobsite. It also includes Kapro's
patented Plumb Site Dual-View vial, whic

[BlindHandyMan] Waterproofing Basement Walls

[Ray Boyce]

Nobody likes unsightly stains from mold, mildew or water damage, but that's
what occurs in countless basements across the nation. Basements have a
tendency to be damp by simple virtue of being the lowest level of the house,
often below grade. The basement walls are the barrier between your living
space and the gallons and gallons of accumulated water that your home sheds
during rainfall. 

However, roof runoff is usually not the only contributing factor to the
massive amount of water collecting at a home's foundation walls. Basement
waterproofing should begin outside your home. Whenever you discover wetness
on interior masonry walls, observe what is causing the seepage problem.
Check for leaky gutters and downspouts or blocked drainage pipes. Ruts in
the landscape or improper grading can also direct water towards your
foundation. As the soil around your foundation becomes saturated,
hydrostatic pressure forces water through the porous masonry, creating dark
stains on the interior surface. For the best waterproofing results, correct
all of these exterior problems before applying a masonry waterproofer to the
interior block.

By installing a gutter and downspouts, water on the outside is diverted away
from the basement walls.

The gutter system will address much of the water intrusion on the outside,
and the application of a masonry waterproofer to the interior walls will
prevent future stains from occurring. Together, both the exterior and
interior approaches will ensure a clean, bone-dry basement for years to
come. 

Get rid of ugly stains.

 

Prep the Surface

Applying a masonry waterproofing product is basically a painting project, so
begin with prepping the surface of the wall for the best adhesion. Clean the
block thoroughly with a wire brush to remove all loose and broken mortar,
dirt and dust This particular house had many dirt spots caused by dirt
daubers-a type of wasp that builds dirt nests on virtually any flat surface
it can grab. Another obstacle to any masonry waterproofer is efflorescence
(salt deposits). This white, powdery substance is formed when water-soluble
salt compounds in the masonry are drawn to the surface by water seepage.
These deposits prevent the waterproofing product from adhering to the
surface of the wall. To control this problem, wash with a solution of
muriatic acid, according to the manufacturer's directions. Remove old paint
by wire-brushing, sand-blasting or scraping (beware of lead paint). Most
masonry waterproofers are warranteed when applied over bare masonry only.

Scrub away any loose debris.

The foundation walls of this house also required the removal of mold and
mildew stains. Bleach is a well-known killer of mold and bacteria, so I used
a solution of bleach and water to scrub away the stains. When all of the
mold and other debris is removed, dry the area completely. 

Next, use a hammer and cold chisel to chip off any unsightly excess mortar
protruding from the joints. If necessary, use a trowel to fill any shallow
spots or holes with mortar. Small cracks can be patched with a concrete
repair product and troweled smooth.

lso, inspect the floor-to-wall joint for evidence of seepage. When concrete
floors 
http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/mag-glass_10x10.gif cure, they
normally shrink and pull away from the wall, creating a gap where water can
enter. If this is the case, fill all gaps between the floor and walls with a
concrete patching product.

 Fill cracks and holes with concrete patch.

Allow all repairs to dry completely before painting. Then, clear the room of
all obstacles and mask off everything you don't want painted. Sheets of
cardboard work well to cover the floor during painting. Also, wear clothing
that you're willing to sacrifice after painting. The solid material in the
waterproofer has a tendency to fly off a paint roller and splatter all over
the user. 

Roll on the mansonry waterproofer in 3' sections.

Applying the Waterproofer

Several manufacturers offer masonry waterproofing products, including Ames,
Behr, Quikrete, and UGL. For this project we used UGL's latex-based Drylok
product in white. Drylok is also available in gray, beige or blue. The
product works by penetrating the tiny pores in the masonry surface and bonds
itself to act as an integral barrier to stop water seepage. Ordinary paint
only adheres to the surface, and oncoming water pressure can force it off.
However, the high solids content in the waterproofer actually plugs those
tiny pathways with a heavy coating that can withstand hydrostatic pressure
of 10 psi-that's the equivalent to water pressure at a depth of 22 feet
(1,440 pounds per square foot). And, hopefully, the walls of your house will
never be 22 feet under water. 

After rolling on the masonry waterproofer, I backbrushed it into the block.

 

According to the manufacturer's instructions, one should "apply the first
coat with a stiff bristle brush 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Stereo Systems?

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Claudia

Try Here

http://stereos.about.com/od/buyingastereo/bb/htib.htm

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Claudia
Sent: Tuesday, 6 October 2009 6:16 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Stereo Systems?

 

  

Hi,

How do I determine how many watts I want or need, in the purchase of a new 
stereo system?
Is there somewhere on the Internet I can go to determine the difference in 
watts?
Thanks.

Claudia
MSN: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net  

Skype: claudiadr2009

Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
 
makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com
 





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[BlindHandyMan] Replacing the Flick Mixer

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

I have just replaced the Flick Mixer here in the Office because the one
which was here seemed to be jamming inside.

However the hot water hose in the new one was too  short and I had to take
the hot water hose off the old one to make the connection.

Now I have never pulled apart these flick mixers so tomorrow I will see how
or what is the problem. 

I think it might be an o ring which has come apart but I will let you know.

The new one has ceramic parts inside so it should last some time without
problems.

Ray   



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[BlindHandyMan] Blown Off sheeting

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

We here is Australia have just had a Red Dust Storm started from Broken Hill
in the Middle of Australia and blown right up the East Coast.

Extremely high winds which blew off a sheet of fibre glass  sheeting which
was on my fernery.

This sheeting has a  corrugated profile and it finished next door so to put
it back on I cut a corrugated ridge off another sheet which was too small to
do the job and made six inch pieces from this which went over the ridge   of
the corrugation and made a clamp like action which I then screwed down.

We had another dust storm two days later with high winds again and it held
successfully.

We have another problem here and that is the birds which eat mulberries in
this area somewhere are flying over and using the new concrete for a bombing
range.

Luckily  I am not out in the yard at the time for if one of these bombs hit
you it could be devastating.

Now by the time we inspect the craters and hose off the mess a stain exists
any suggestions as to how one should remove this.

Out in the yard Wearing my safety helmet and listening for approaching
birds.

Ray



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dale

Bob is right I have an I Beam through the middle of my garages  directly
under the main part of the house, when that I Beam is there your floor will
not have any bouncy parts at all.

If you want to run lights or power cables through state this at the time of
ordering it and the supplier can have those holes cut in for you.

Check with your local codes as to the size of the I Beam needed and get it
put in by professionals with the gear to manoeuvre and install it safely.

Why I say that is if this Beam falls on you while you are trying to install
it it is good by Dale.

Ray

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Sunday, 4 October 2009 6:11 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?

 

  

I have a 20 foot span I don't want posts in. I want to sister the joists but
with spaces through which wiring and the like can pass. I also want to try
to minimize lost headroom.

- Original Message - 
From: Bob Kennedy 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com   
Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?

I don't know if banding would be stout enough for an old heavy house. Since
steel is stronger and thinner, I'd be tempted to use some kind of I beam
with screw jacks. That would take the bounce out of the floors. 
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com   
Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 9:41 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?

Hi,

It is too wet outside to do any work and I am contemplating a problem I have
had since moving into this old building.

The original house has floor joists rough sawn but only 2 by 8 on 24 inch
centers. We have a springy and uneven floor. Some of it is also because at
some point one of the heating systems required framing in a big cold air
return and they clearly didn't shore up the floor when cutting that joist,
someone long since removed all of the cross bracing.

I don't see sistering or adding joists in the usual way because of plumbing,
wiring and duct work and I don't want to add more posts and beams. It
recently struck me though that I could build in place an open web joist,
jack things temporarily up then fix the lower cord. This lead me to think
perhaps a better way might be to jack tings up just a little above the
desired point then apply a web of strap steel to either face of the existing
joists on the diagonal. A series of 'V's so that the diagonal essentially
forms triangles. This would allow me to continue to respect wiring.

More stiffening might be achieved by running a length of angle iron along
the top inside corner against the floor and the joist and run a bolt through
it and the straps and similarly at the bottom of the joist, I wonder how
much would be enough and how much too much. At some point it might be better
to fabricate individual steel webbed joists and fit them between the
originals but then they may serve the purpose of lifting the originals which
would continue to be pulling down after nearly a century.

Just kicking around ideas. I would like to preserve as much open space there
as I can.

I don't have reasonable access to engineering or architectural services.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] certain features you should look for when buying a Portable Generator?

[Ray Boyce]

In the market for a Portable
  Generator? If so, there are certain features you should look for.
If you don't have most of those features, we hate to tell you, but you
didn't buy a good portable generator. These features, many of which are
absolutely necessary to make your powering solutions operate quietly, more
fuel efficient, less maintenance and provide you with years of service when
you need it most. Nothing is worse than experiencing a power outage and then
turning to your portable generator, only to find that it's hard to start,
runs inefficiently or God forbid, WON'T START!

  

Portable Generator Feature #1: Electric Start

This feature enables a generator to be easily started without having to pull
a starter rope.

 

Portable Generator Feature #2: Low Oil Shutdown

I would classify this feature as MANDATORY on any portable generator. It
shuts the engine down if the oil level drops below a safe operating level.

 

Portable Generator Feature #3: Idle Control

Automatically throttles down engine when no power is being drawn from
alternator. This feature saves fuel, cuts down on noise and reduces engine
wear.

 

Portable Generator Feature #4: Hour Meter

This feature helps with maintenance by keeping a record of how long engine
has run. Now you can automatically schedule oil changes.

 

Portable Generator Feature #5: Large Fuel Tank

If your generator is used for providing backup power during power outages,
get a fuel tank with a capacity of five gallons or more. These units can run
on average, seven to ten hours before refueling.

 

Portable Generator Feature #6: Ball Bearing Alternator

This simply amounts to a
 cheap
generator versus a quality generator. The alternators with the ball bearing
costs more than the ones with the needle bearings but they last longer.

 

Portable Generator Feature #7: Brushless Alternator Design

This feature boils down to common sense and pure economics; brushless
alternators require less maintenance and produce cleaner power, which is
more suitable for today's sensitive electronic equipment. Brush-type
generators have brushes that are wear items, requiring replacement.

 

Portable Generator Feature #8: All-Metal Alternator

How many times have we seen portable generators go clunk because of cheap
manufacturing? More than you ever want to know! Stay away from portable
generators that have alternators with plastic housing because they are known
to warp over time and cause moving parts within the alternator to come out
of alignment, wear excessively and eventually break. Get an all-metal
alternator.

 

Portable Generator Feature #9: Cast Iron Sleeve

If you expect to utilize your generator often or for long periods of time,
this feature is absolutely crucial! Hidden in the cylinder of some engines
is a cast iron sleeve liner that reduces wear, which makes the engine last
longer, which saves you money. The added cost of a portable generator with a
cast iron sleeve in the engine is small and well worth it.

 

Portable Generator Feature #10: OHV (Overhead Valve) Engine

This technology is suited for portable generators because it produces fewer
emissions than side-valve (pushrod) engines, OHV engines start easier, run
quieter, and they have proven to last longer.

 

Portable Generator Feature #11: Full Power Switch

This allows you to switch off the 240 Volt output to get more 120 Volt power
from the generator. This feature is useful for starting 120 volt electric
motors on air compressors and water pumps.

 

Portable Generator Feature #12: Portability Kit

Some generators, although portable, seem like they weigh a ton. With a
portability kit, (wheels and handles specifically made for that generator)
you can move the heavy units around with relative ease.

 

Portable Generator Feature #13: Total Harmonic Distortion (THD)

Total Harmonic Distortion is a means to measure the quality of the output
electricity of a generator. Six percent THD is considered the upper limit
for "clean" electricity. Go above 6% THD and the electricity will most
likely reduce the life of electrical circuits, cause microprocessors to
malfunction and cause furnace controllers to operate incorrectly. A good
generator has less a THD of less than 6%. Be warned, some generators produce
a THD greater than 15%. Make sure you know what your THD is before you buy.

 

Portable Generator Feature #13: Brand Name
For some items, brand names won't make that much of a difference, but when
it comes to generators, brand names such as Honda
 , Briggs
  & Stratton, Cummins
 , etc

[BlindHandyMan] Two Pole Power Points

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

We had  a small problem recently with a power point in our Caravan.

This is in the front boot and a three pin plug connects from this into the
fuse box.

What was happening was that if this cord was touched the lights in the van
went out.

What we found that the internals of this double pole power point had a short
inside and the whole thing rattled when shaken.

By law you must use a double pole power points in caravans in Australia, so
both the active and neutral are switched off when the switch is in the off
position.

These type of two pole points are twice the price of household power points.

So if we have any members in Australia do not use a standard household power
point in your caravan for it is illegal and you could void your warranty.

Ray 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Pop Rivets Types and Their Uses.

[Ray Boyce]

The Open End POP Blind Rivet is a hollow rivet pre-assembled on to a headed
pin or mandrel. Providing 

strong, low cost fastening, the Open End POP Rivet is ideal for a wide
variety of applications where the 

materials to be fastened do not have high load bearing requirements. 

 

Open End POP Rivets are available in a wide variety of materials (aluminium,
magnesium alloy, copper, mild 

steel, nickel-copper alloy, & stainless steel) and combinations with dome,
countersunk, or large-flange head 

styles.

Open End POP Rivets 

Closed End POP Rivets 

Closed End POP Rivets provide up to 23% greater tensile strength than
equivalent Open End POP Rivets. 

In addition, the Closed End POP Rivet incorporates a unique cup-shaped end
configuration that seals tight, 

preventing passage of vapor or liquid around or through the set rivet. 

Closed End POP Rivets also provide 100% mandrel retention, which is an
important factor in electric and 

electronic equipment applications. They are available in dome or countersunk
head styles. 

Soft Set POP Rivets 

Identical in appearance to regular Open End & Closed End POP Rivets, Soft
Set POP Rivets incorporate a 

body and mandrel of special aluminum alloys. Breaking at a lower tensile
point than regular mandrels, 

Soft Set POP Rivets afford a firm grip and also provide the more moderate
pressures essential in fastening 

some of the more brittle materials.

MultiGrip POP Rivets 

MultiGrip POP Rivets are useful in applications where:

 

.different material thicknesses normally require several rivet sizes

.components are supplied to the user with holes already punched or drilled

.the sheets to be joined are folded or curved, making it difficult to match
up two holes of the correct size

 

The wide grip range of MultiGrip POP Rivets permits design flexibility and
reduced rivet inventory, resulting 

in substantial cost savings. They are also resistant to vibrations.

HR (High Retention) POP Rivets 

HR POP Rivets are high retention rivets designed for use in metal and
plastic-to-metal applications. The 

unique rib design of HR POP Rivets accommodates larger primary holes in
plastic and thin sheet metal 

without causing deformation or stress fractures.

UltraGrip POP Rivets 

UltraGrip POP Rivets, with the positive mechanical locking system, provide
superior holding power over 

other types of high strength POP rivets. The locking system guarantees 100%
mandrel retention and also 

seals the mandrel head into the body, preventing head drop-out as well as
keeping the application free of 

contamination from metal fragments.

Grooved POP Rivets 

Peel Type POP Rivets 

T-Rivets 

Easy Entry POP Rivets 

LSR (Load Spreading Rivet) POP Rivets 

Peel Type POP Rivets have a unique setting action, making it suitable for
joining plastics, rubber, wood, GRP 

& laminates. On setting, the body of the rivet splits into four petals,
allowing it to withstand high pull-out 

loads. 

 

Peel Type POP Rivets are made of aluminum 3.5% magnesium alloy with carbon
steel mandrels. They are 

widely used in the assembly of caravans, trailers. furniture, plastic-framed
windows, and in any other 

products involving the joining of soft or friable materials.

As the name suggests, POP Grooved Rivets are produced by externally grooving
an A13.5%Mg rivet shaft. 

Grooved POP Rivets are designed to set within a hole in fibrous materials
such as wood. When the Grooved 

POP Rivet sets, the body shortens and the fibres of the material are grasped
between the closed grooves of 

the rivet.

With a new innovative "Cone Head" mandrel point, Easy Entry POP Rivets line
up odd shaped or misaligned 

holes in multiple sheets of material to make production easier and faster.
Compared to some fastening 

systems, Easy Entry POP Rivets increase productivity by significantly
reducing assembly time. In addition, 

improved radial expansion during setting helps ensure a strong and tight
fit, even in oversized holes. 

 

Easy Entry POP Rivets insert quickly to provide an excellent hold in
thin-gauge metals such as aluminum 

and steel.

LSR POP Rivets are designed for use in plastics, wood, GRP, laminates, & in
other thin, brittle or soft 

materials. LSR POP Rivets should be selected whenever the materials to be
fastened are so soft or brittle 

that the tensile force exerted by a conventional rivet would cause damage,
as LSR POP Rivets feature a 

secondary head that forms large "folds". This provides a larger bearing
surface, which adds resistance to 

pull-through or cracking that can occur in some materials with a standard
rivet. 

T-Rivets are designed for use in high strength fastening applications and in
extreme pull-up properties such 

as construction, where tensile strength as high as 1100 pounds, and shear
strengths as high as 2400 

pounds may be essential.

POP Blind Rivets

POP Blind Rivet Types (from left to right) : Open End, Easy Entry, Soft Set,
Micro, Multi Grip, LSR, Closed End, F S

RE: [BlindHandyMan] concrete slab

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Archie

The thickness of concrete you are going to put down is six inches, you can
cut your concrete costs by reducing this to three or if you like four
inches.

I have just put down an area of 44 x 18 feet which is four inches thick but
has reinforcing mesh in the middle .

Since then we have had a small tip truck full of enriched soil and a two ton
four wheel drive run over this area with no undue effects.

What you r  proposing is six inches you could run an  army tank over that
with no undue effect.

What you should do is get some crushed rock we call this out here road base,
build this under the area you are going to concrete  thus cutting your costs
by reducing the thickness significantly.

If you do not want it to crack use reinforcing mesh in this area but for
just pedestrian traffic there is no need. 

Ray 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of eastwinddancer
Sent: Monday, 17 August 2009 1:59 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] concrete slab

 

  

Hi All,

I just finished a wheelchair ramp, for my wife. Now I need to put a concrete
pad at the bottom it will be 6" thick by 4' by 3'. This is my first concrete
project ever, I got fiber reinforced concrete for extra strength. Any
suggestions will be great, thanks.

Also, a while back I asked about wheelbarrow options and got some ideas,
thanks for that. I went with the wagon and it works great. Thanks to all who
helped.
Great group.
Have a good day!
Archie 





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Landscaping blocks.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dan

Have you thought of using Hebel Blocks,  which are light weight and you can
cut them  to any  shape using a Hebel Saw.

Light Weight is the key carrying them up those steps would be easy and you
just glue them together .

Just a thought.

Ray

 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Friday, 7 August 2009 12:42 AM
To: Blind Handyman List
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Landscaping blocks.

 

  

Dale mentioned using landscaping blocks instead of cinder blocks to build 
the walls around my basement door pit. OK, I like the idea, but I have a 
question about that. How can I do inside corners with landscaping blocks? 
Do they have special inside and outside corner blocks? Would I have to 
cut 45s on the ends of every block in the corners?

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu  
Tel: (412) 268-9081





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing Fence Rails

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Tom

 yes they would make good fire wood, they are not treated with any toxic
stuff.

We do not have a wood fire anymore, I will call my work car driver he has a
wood fire and might like them a good thought.

Regards

Ray   

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
Sent: Friday, 7 August 2009 6:41 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing Fence Rails

 

  


Ray,
Wouldn't those old rails make good firewood? Or are they soaked with
creosote?

Tom

On Fri, Aug 07, 2009 at 06:30:08AM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote:
> Hi All
> 
> Well we replaced the last 88 feet of wooden 3 x2 fence rails yesterday
with
> top cap 50 galvanised steel channels.
> 
> These channels are like a pyramid shape with a one inch flat on the bottom
> feet and a one inch flat at the top.
> 
> You screw the feet directly to the galvanised posts and the fence sheets
are
> screwed to the one inch top thus hiding the screws inside the pyramid.
> 
> Now I will have to cut up the wood rails ready for dispatch to the dump.
> 
> Another job completed.
> 
> Ray
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Replacing Fence Rails

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well we replaced the last 88 feet of wooden 3 x2 fence rails yesterday with
top cap 50 galvanised steel channels.

These channels are   like a pyramid shape with a one inch flat on the bottom
feet and a one inch flat at the top.

You screw the feet directly to the galvanised posts and the fence sheets are
screwed to the one inch top thus hiding the screws inside the pyramid.

Now I will have to cut up the wood rails ready for dispatch to the dump.

Another job completed.

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Make sure you have the right extinguisher ready to go

[Ray Boyce]

1. Do you have a fire extinguisher in your shop?
2. Where is it exactly?
3. Is it functional or in need of a recharge?
4. What type(s) of fire(s) is it made for?

If you can't answer all four, it's definitely worth taking the time to make
sure both you and your extinguisher are ready to go at a moment's notice.
After all, when it comes to fires, there's a saying: "When seconds count,
the fire department is only minutes away."

Since there are multiple fire hazards in your shop, it is important that you
have an extinguisher that is suited to the three types of fires that can
occur:

 
 Click here to find out more!

Type A Burning solids such as wood, paper, rags, etc. Because a Type A
extinguisher will contain water, it must not be used on Type B or C fires.

Type B Chemical fires, which can include oil, gasoline, solvents and
alcohol, which are all common in the workshop. Type B extinguishers contain
a dry chemical to smother the fire, making them ineffective on Type A and C
fires.

Type C Electrical fires. Electrical fires require rapid cooling, and
extinguishers generally contain CO2.

Type A/B/C units contain a chemical that both cools (for Type A and C) and
smothers (for Type B) at the same time. For general shop use, a large
combination (Type A/B/C) extinguisher is your best bet, as the chances of
making matters worse by using the wrong type are eliminated.

Don't let an oily rag or an errant spark destroy your shop. Take a few
minutes and give your extinguisher the attention it deserves; it could be
the best shop investment you ever make.   

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Choosing non-toxic paints and finishes

[Ray Boyce]

Sift through the product hype and understand what you're buying when it
comes to safer paints

You may be getting more than a splash of colour when you paint. According to
the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), our indoor air is often more
polluted than outdoor air and one of the culprits is common household paint.


 
 Click here to find out more!


Dangerous fumes
Due to their complex chemicals, conventional paints and finishes off-gas
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) for months after being applied. Since
these chemicals are neurotoxins, inhaling them over long periods can be a
health hazard, particularly for younger children. 

VOCs have been known to cause eye, nose and throat irritations as well as
nausea, dizziness and headaches. That light-headed feeling you get after
painting is actually a reaction to low-level toxins. 

Industry-changing
Fortunately, new regulations from the federal government, first introduced
in 2005 along with increased consumer awareness have created a demand for
low-VOC paints and finishes. 

"In the past, like many industries, the paint industry really wasn't fully
aware of the impact of all those solvents in the air and how they contribute
to problem VOCs," says Ed Linton, manager of environmental and safety
compliance at Cloverdale Paint  . "Now that
we realize what those impacts are, we're making changes." 

Cloverdale is just one of the many companies developing greener and cleaner
paints. Its Horizon line of interior paints and primers currently has the
lowest VOC on the market (less than one gram/litre).

Reducing pollution
Low VOC paints have a number of environmental benefits. The easy cleanup
with soap and water means less contamination of groundwater and less waste
heading for the landfill. Since there are so little fumes, you can occupy
the painted room sooner. Their performance is equal to most other paints in
terms of coverage and cleaning. 

Finding the right paint
But with even more choices out there, finding a low-toxicity paint can get a
bit confusing.  Prices are the same as most mid-range conventional paint,
but there are different types of low-VOC paints and finishes.

1. Natural paints
Natural paints and finishes are the safest since they use natural raw
ingredients. Popular elements include milk casein and natural latex, along
with minerals, such as clay, chalk and talcum. Natural oils and beeswax are
often used for finishes. These paints have no VOCs and very few people are
allergic to them. 

Try: 

*   Old Fashioned Milk Products
 , available in 20 shades 
*   Real   Milk Paint,
available in 28 shades 
*   TimberSoy  ,
natural wood stain made from soy, available in 12 colours

2. Low-VOC paints
Since low-VOC paints use water as a carrier, they often have low levels of
heavy metals and other chemicals. They still off-gas, but it doesn't stay
around as long. Be careful with this label since there are currently no real
guidelines in place yet. Environment Canada's standard is 250 grams per
litre, but reputable dealers will only advertise their paint as low VOC when
it has 50 g/L or less. 

Try:

*   Cloverdale Horizon
 , available in over 50 colours 
*   Sherwin Williams
 , Duration Home Harmony, available in over 50 shades
*   Sico  's Cashmere,
Chamois and Shantung line, available in four shades
*   Benjamin Moore Aura Interior Paint
 , available in 144
shades
*   C2  's LoVo line,
available in over 300 colours 


3. Zero-VOC paints
Zero-VOC is a trickier label. Technically there is no such thing as zero-VOC
paints since all paints have chemicals, colourants, biocides and
fungicides-which all off-gas. Like Low-VOC paints, the off-gassing is
shorter and less toxic. A paint is considered zero-VOC if it's under five
grams/litre. Check the label carefully on these products.

Try:

*   Benjamin Moore
 's Natura line, available in four shades

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dale 

You brought a very good point up about the barrow coping over when I put a
bag of cement into it.

It did just that and i will keep my eye out so to speak for a four wheel
barrow.

Ray 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Monday, 3 August 2009 12:42 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

 

  

Skinned shins seem to be a fact of my life.

A couple of years ago I bought a four wheeled wheelbarrow on sale half price
otherwise I never would have bought it. There is usually a reason why things
go on half price at Canadian Tire and the reason in this case I believe were
the front pneumatic tires. Tubeless but not nearly tough enough. Eventually
I solved the flat tire problem when I found suitably sized tubes.

The rear wheels are casters which can be locked. this makes driving
interesting since it is the rear wheels which steer. There aren't handles in
the traditional sense of wheelbarrow handles but a bar which comes up,
across and back down rather more like a handle for a shopping cart.

There are a couple of things I like about this barrow, for lifting sand up
my steps I can raise the rear wheels and then holding the barrow move around
to the front and lift and roll it back then scoot around to the rear and
raise the back wheels and so on until I get up the five steps. I like that I
can throw big shovels full of sand or what ever into the barrow without fear
of it over balancing and for things like mixing up cement. I like that I can
position it easily without having to raise and lower the rear. It can be a
little easier to accurately dump a load. It has been nice for parts of my
patio project, that last bit of leveling I can throw a shovel or trowel full
of sand here and there where I need it and push the barrow out of the way as
I crawl about on hands and knees without having to get up and heave it into
a suitable place.

I also like my big heavy old industrial grade barrow. It is getting pretty
old and warn now but it is good in tight places and provided I keep the
wheel well inflated it moves well over soft ground compared with the four
wheeled barrow.

I do often tend to haul either barrow backward walking backward depending on
the route and a variety of other things and I tend to do it with either
barrow. I often also do it when moving people about in wheelchairs at the
hospital for reasons of patient safety.

You might like to consider a four wheeled barrow though, The wife might be
able to push it too, moving twice the material in the same time.

- Original Message - 
From: Ray Boyce 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>  
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 5:04 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

Hi Betsy and Jewel

Yes I place myself between the handles and walk forwards reverse gripping
and pulling the barrow especially when I am close to the garage doors.

So I do not dint the roller dors, but I have an industrial barrow which is
large and if I have it full of cement or soil then pushing it around
forwards is a lot easier than reverse walking especially walking up the yard
which has a slope.

We are in the middle of developing a new garden and cemented in rocks for a
end wall yesterday so I had to mix some cement in the barrow for this job. 

As the cement had to be just right for forming up mounds between the rocks I
put on a pair of sturdy rubber gloves and mix the cement by hand so I can
judge the consistency of the mix.

I need to replace some fence rails along one side of the yard that I have
not done yet so after developing this garden I do not later have to worry
about walking over the wife's plants.

I do not know about you but I seem to hit my shins a lot and take skin off
them, so the wife has made me a pair of shin pads which are held on by
Velcro.

The first she says is get those shin pads on, so I do not have to be the
first aid lady again.

She is only little but there is a lot of fire in that little person, and I
had better do what she says or else.

Thanks for the suggestions ladies.

Ray

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
Sent: Sunday, 2 August 2009 3:24 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

Aloha Ray,
I was just curious if you had considered moving bakward while using 
the wheelbarrel? When I have to move things like that, I move 
backward and then I can check behind myself with my feet to avoid 
plants and such. I generally plan some things with which I do not 
want or need husband/Mr. Marvelous to participate, when he is away or 
napping. We have very different ideas about how things should be 
accomplished, a

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Betsy and Jewel

Yes I place myself between the handles and walk forwards reverse gripping
and pulling the barrow  especially when I am close to the garage doors.

So I do not dint the roller dors, but I have an industrial barrow which is
large and if I have it full of cement or soil then pushing it around
forwards is a lot easier than reverse walking especially walking up the yard
which has a slope.

We are in the middle of developing a new garden and cemented in rocks for a
end wall yesterday so I had to mix some cement in the barrow for this job. 

As the cement had to be just right for forming up mounds between the rocks I
put on a pair of sturdy rubber gloves and mix the cement by hand so I can
judge the consistency of the mix.

I need to replace some fence rails  along one side of the yard that I have
not done yet so after developing this garden I do not later have to worry
about walking over the wife's plants.

I do not know about you but I seem to hit my shins a lot and take skin off
them, so the wife has made me a pair of shin pads which are held on by
Velcro.

The first she says is get those shin pads on, so I do not have to be the
first aid lady again.

She is only little but there is a lot of fire in that little person, and I
had better do what she says or else.

Thanks for the suggestions ladies.

Ray

 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
Sent: Sunday, 2 August 2009 3:24 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

 

  

Aloha Ray,
I was just curious if you had considered moving bakward while using 
the wheelbarrel? When I have to move things like that, I move 
backward and then I can check behind myself with my feet to avoid 
plants and such. I generally plan some things with which I do not 
want or need husband/Mr. Marvelous to participate, when he is away or 
napping. We have very different ideas about how things should be 
accomplished, and if I do it myself, I don't have to go back and 
clean up his back trail.
Just a thought,
Betsy
At 07:04 PM 8/1/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi Dale
>
>Does your wife help you for this is a major project with it seems more hard
>work ahead.
>
>Keep us informed as you go for I am interested in what you have under taken
>here.
>
>If I am doing anything out in the yard my wife works alongside me telling
me
>what I am doing wrong.
>
>If I am pushing a Wheel Barrow she tells me in what direction it should be
>going so I do not knock over her plants, or run over the dog.
>
>It is amazing what we as blind people can achieve when we set our minds on
a
>project.
>
>Ray
>
>From: 
>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]
>On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
>Sent: Sunday, 2 August 2009 9:03 AM
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.
>
>On Tuesday a truck should be arriving with several hundred retaining wall
>blocks of two types and a load of retaining edging and spikes for the
patio.
>I have about three quarters of it laid but have to take a small diversion
to
>break up a small set of stairs I had poured 18 years ago when I first
scaped
>the yard. The steps have subsided quite a bit in one corner and in doing so
>pulled away from the cement block forming some of the wall of the well.
>These are three steps which descent to a landing before a turn to descend
>the rest of the way to a basement door entry. It is a shame to have to
>destroy the steps really, I did a rather good job, they are formed inside a
>sort of box. Clever though the design was, it is a lot of cement to bust
up.
>I rented a big bosch electric jack hammer for the week-end, hopefully it
>won't kill me, so far I have removed the bottom step and about a third of
>the second step which is solid to the bottom. I think I'll quit for ton
>ight.
>
>I believe I'll line the well again but this time with retaining wall stones
>to include risers for the steps. I will fill behind with sharp sand and
>compact it firmly then cap with caps stones and probably stick them down
>with some heavy construction adhesive.That way, if they fail again all I
>need do is dig 'em up and lay them again.
>
>That hammer gets mighty heavy for a little chap after four or five hours I
>can tell you.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dale

Does your  wife help you for this is a major project with it seems more hard
work ahead.

Keep us informed as you go for I am interested in what you have under taken
here.

If I am doing anything out in the yard my wife works alongside me telling me
what I am doing wrong.

If I am pushing a Wheel Barrow she tells me in what direction it should be
going so I do not knock over her plants, or run over the dog.

It is amazing what we as blind people can achieve when we set our minds on a
project.

Ray   

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Sunday, 2 August 2009 9:03 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

 

  

On Tuesday a truck should be arriving with several hundred retaining wall
blocks of two types and a load of retaining edging and spikes for the patio.
I have about three quarters of it laid but have to take a small diversion to
break up a small set of stairs I had poured 18 years ago when I first scaped
the yard. The steps have subsided quite a bit in one corner and in doing so
pulled away from the cement block forming some of the wall of the well.
These are three steps which descent to a landing before a turn to descend
the rest of the way to a basement door entry. It is a shame to have to
destroy the steps really, I did a rather good job, they are formed inside a
sort of box. Clever though the design was, it is a lot of cement to bust up.
I rented a big bosch electric jack hammer for the week-end, hopefully it
won't kill me, so far I have removed the bottom step and about a third of
the second step which is solid to the bottom. I think I'll quit for ton
ight.

I believe I'll line the well again but this time with retaining wall stones
to include risers for the steps. I will fill behind with sharp sand and
compact it firmly then cap with caps stones and probably stick them down
with some heavy construction adhesive.That way, if they fail again all I
need do is dig 'em up and lay them again.

That hammer gets mighty heavy for a little chap after four or five hours I
can tell you.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Well the Turf has been Rolled Out.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Lee 

 

We just had to water the area by hand,  because it is Winter at the moment
we have  to water the turf to remove the frost before the Sun hits it.

Later on we will use a soaker hose after it is established to promote
vigorous growth.

The dog has found a new area to crap and takes great joy in leaving her
calling card.

Stepping with care, hoping I do not step in a big Mack.

Ray 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
Sent: Tuesday, 28 July 2009 7:50 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Well the Turf has been Rolled Out.

 

  


Ray, now if you have a empty hose end sprayer and if you have the wife 
pick up the cheapest dish detergent she can find you hose down that 
new turf and adjoining lawn. so you end up with soap suds bubbling 
up and walla. it looks good. . do not ask me what the benefits of 
the regular cheap soap are but I have used that before long ago when 
at a previous house we had to put in a new water and sewer line. I got 
that information from a rc book called " the impatient gardner". Lee.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2009 at 
11:43:20AM +1000, 
Ray Boyce wrote:
> Hi All
> 
> Well the Turf came early today and the wife and I got stuck into bringing
it
> around the back of the house and rolling it out.
> 
> I used a furniture removalist trolley that I put a platform on for moving
> large concrete pots around the garden.
> 
> These rolls were heavy because the ground they were cut from was very wet.
> 
> We were both covered with mud after moving them into position.
> 
> So hopefully it all will grow and then spread down the yard to completely
> cover the ground that is left.
> 
> So now we can move onto the next project.
> 
> Ray 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
Force it!!!
If it breaks, well, it wasn't working anyway...
No, don't force it, get a bigger hammer.
.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Well the Turf has been Rolled Out.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All

Well the Turf came early today and the wife and I got stuck into bringing it
around the back of the house and rolling it out.

I used a furniture removalist trolley that I put a platform on for moving
large concrete  pots around the garden.

These rolls were heavy because the ground they were cut from was very wet.

We were both covered with mud after moving   them into  position.

So hopefully it all will grow and then spread down the yard to completely
cover the ground that is left.

So now we can move onto the next project.

Ray 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Do Lock Washers Really Lock

[Ray Boyce]

Washers - what are they for? Do lock washers really lock? Do lock nuts? +
other locking methods


Washers help distribute load and prevent the screw head from digging into
the joint material. If the surface of the joint isn't smooth, it's more
likely that the screw will compress higher spots over time and come loose.
Also, if the surface is damaged by the screw or nut, it can lead to problems
with future re-installation. It's important to use a washer that's hard
enough for the given screw. For instance, be sure to use a hardened washer
for high-strength screws and bolts (Grade 8 and socket head cap screws). 

Locking Devices: There are several different types that ostensibly help to
keep a joint from loosening. Their effectiveness depends on the applicat

ion and is somewhat debateable. 

*   features that supposedly prevent loosening: a spring action and an
edge that digs into the screw on reversal. According to this thread
  it seems that everyone from
NASA to British defense to the US navy thinks split lock washers are
useless. Some of the rationale include the fact that the spring force of the
washer is only around 5% of the force from the stretched bolt, and that the
edge cannot dig into anything when it flattens out. Yet, millions of these
washers are used every year, so one would think they're not completely
useless. 

According to the "Handbook of Bolts and Bolted Joints," by Bickford, p. 243,
the lock washer undergoes additional deformation after it flattens with a
spring rate more comparable to that of the bolt. This extra springyness is
helpful for preventing fatigue failure, but it's unlikely that it helps
prevent loosening.

These washers are probably most effective in joints where the recommended
tightness cannot be achieved, such as soft metal, plastic or wood joints. In
these cases, the washer would likely not be entirely flat and would indeed
dig into the screw surfaces.

*   Toothed washers: These have small teeth that dig into adjacent screw
and joint material. The consensus seems to be that these are more effective
than split lock washers, but will (and must) cause damage to adjacent
surfaces, which may affect repeated installation.
*   Belleville washers: These are cone shaped (not shown) washers are
used more as a precision spring than a locking device. They can be stacked
to increase their combined spring rate (see the wiki
 ). Their spring rates are
substantially higher than split lock washers. They may provide some
protention in high vibration or temperature changes. Wavy washers have a
similar purpose.
*   Sems: These are screws with freely spinning captured
washers--washers that are permanently attached. See some pictures here
 . 
*   Fender washers: These have a much wider outer diameter than typical
washers and are useful on softer materials.
*   Loctite: This is actually the prefered method for securing screws
against vibration. Loctite is like a glue that hardens when oxygen is
removed. The most common type can be removed by heating the joint.
*   Castle Nuts: These have slots that accept a cotter pin that goes
through a drilled hole in the bolt. 
*
*   Lock Wires: Bolts heads with holes are strung together with wire so
that they cannot turn relative to each other. Used for vibration resistance
and as an anti-tampering device.
*   Lock Nuts: The most common type is a nut with a nylon insert. These
are very effective (certainly more so than lock-washers), but may not work
for reassembly. There are also nuts called "prevailing-torque" locknuts.
These have warped threads or tapered features that apply increased friction
on the bolt.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project progress report.

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dale

If you keep doing this muscle building exercises you will finish up like
Arnold.

It's fun spending all that money doing jobs around the home, and when you
start it seems to lead into others with more expensive projects.

Keep us informed as you advance through this project  and let us know if you
come up with any new techniques that we perhaps can use if we tackle
something like yours. 

We for example have just finished a large cement slab and now we find we
have to buy turf after the bob Cat dug down the yard too far.

So it is coming tomorrow and I have to carry it from the front to the back
then roll it out.

We are using Sir Walter Turf which is green  all year and a vigorous growing
turf.

This should stop us carrying mud either up onto the slab or onto  the paths.

Then we have to start cementing in a rock wall at one of the garden ends but
I have the rocks here so I have to buy bags of sand an cement so we can fix
them in.

This is what I mean about one thing leads into another.

Regards

Ray  

 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Monday, 27 July 2009 2:04 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project progress report.

 

  

Well I am about two thirds through the main part of replacing my lock stone
patio.

Since my daughter is up visiting I had her drive me down to Earlton, a
little town just under two hours south of here where there is a family
operated brick yard and ordered three thousand square feet of pavers for the
double driveway, 30 curb stones which I am told weigh a hundred and ten
pounds each to go along the one edge. I also ordered a couple of different
sorts of retaining wall blocks, one sort to extend the wall I erected in
1993 to extend it and turn it to keep part of my neighbours yard from
subsiding, the original owner had put up a wooden structure made of scraps
as far as I can tell and it is subsiding so I'll tidy that up.

I also ordered another sort to hold my front lawn up and out of the hedge. I
presently have some land scape ties there but they are failing and I want a
good secure and defined edge both to make tending the lawn easier and as a
secure footing to stand on when trimming the hedge.I bought some for other
edging too, altogether nearly $8,000 in masonry and masonry products.

There is a new and much better product for bonding the pavers I didn't have
available first time I put them down, they call it polymeric sand. It
contains some sort of polymer chemistry which gets sticky when wet but
remains somewhat elastic and is supposed to keep weeds and insects from
penetrating. When I am ready for it, they tell me it will require about 900
bucks for the patio and the driveway.

So far I have shifted and leveled about four yards of crusher reject and
lifted and replaced about 400 square feet of pavers which is about 1600
bricks. well, not quite because Janet and Chrystal have picked up and
cleaned quite a number of them.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]