Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Dale Leavens
OK,

You will probably have pretty deep frost. You will want a good base of stone. 
some people like to lay scape fabric under the stone base. I have never done 
that, I suppose it depends a little on how long you expect the thing to stand. 
So far my two big walls have been there about 20 years standing on stone 
directly on clay.


If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 9:44 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters



  Dale,

  This is good information, and I live on the other end of the Great Lakes -- 
Superior, Wisconsin. We're right next to Duluth, Minnesota and this region 
refers to themselves as "The Twin Ports" and "The Head of the Lakes."
  
  Holland's Person, Bill
  - "Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint."
  - US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Bill Gallik
Dale,

This is good information, and I live on the other end of the Great Lakes -- 
Superior, Wisconsin.  We're right next to Duluth, Minnesota and this region 
refers to themselves as "The Twin Ports" and "The Head of the Lakes."

Holland's Person, Bill
- "Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint."
- US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Dale Leavens
I would consider outside dimensions of 4 by 11 or even a little smaller. 
Reaching across a space more than three feet gets uncomfortable when gardening 
so the inside dimension might be just about spot on depending on the material 
used.

I have been using something called Royal Gray, there are several variations on 
this material  but essentially it is bricks with a lip hanging down along the 
back. The ones I have been using last year are about 5 and a half high by 8 by 
8. Each sits back half an inch on the row above. You can stick them down with 
adhesive, for your application I think I would only stick down the top row. You 
will want probably 5 rows or courses for your purposes.

At 4 feet you only have a short distance between the house and the planter but 
it is enough to scoot behind to paint the lower courses of the siding and it 
keeps moisture away from the building.

I don't know where you live so don't know anything about depth of frost but one 
of the nice things about friction fitting block like that is that it should 
sustain some movement without disintegration.

You shouldn't need more than 4 to 6 inches of pea gravel as a foundation. I 
would consider digging out the surface, you can keep the soil to fill the 
planter and I would go right from the house to the sidewalk and a foot beyond 
each end if practical. I think, because I don't know about the house foundation 
that I would slope the bottom of the excavation away from the building so it is 
deeper at the sidewalk edge just to encourage any drainage away from the 
building. Then fill with pea gravel or crushed rock preferably washed and quite 
clean. Pack it as well as you can, if you don't have easy access to a vibrating 
compactor then rake it over a lot as you slowly fill in the stone so it 
compacts as good as you can get it. then screed it off as level as you can get 
it. If you have it really flat then you should be able to just pull strings or 
even lay down reasonably straight boards to line up your bricks.

Then just lay your stones to the desired height.

You can buy capstones to pretty up the top course and you can usually buy 
various corner stones if you prefer to end each course against a pillar these 
are all attractive additions.

on finishing the penultimate course I would recommend that you line the inside 
with land scape fabric. Bring it just over the inside top lip of the planter 
and stick it gently with adhesive then lay your cap course stuck down with 
adhesive to hold the fabric in place. this will allow some moisture to pass 
through but discourage silt and such from staining the bricks and keep stuff 
from growing up from below. Then fill up with soil and away you go.

Because your foundation gravel is broader than the base of the planter, 
excessive water can drain under the walls and evaporate outside relieving any 
hydraulic pressure on the stone work.

I can assure you from experience that laying, packing and leveling your base is 
key and well worth the extra time and effort it takes. Small errors amplify as 
you ascend.

If you are going to mortar bricks all the same applies except that you should 
probably pour a cement footing first. You should also lay a damp course about 
the second course up particularly if these are the standard clay bricks and you 
should drive stakes just beyond the corners so you can pull tight masons string 
to level and to guide subsequent courses level. You can make small adjustments 
to height and level by tapping mortared bricks and depending on how fast you 
can lay them, I am not skilled enough to go very fast, you will have to point 
the joints after which you don't wish to be adjusting the bricks for level. 
Small irregularities can be adjusted for with the thickness of the mortar and 
invisible to the eye so long as you don't allow them to accumulate.

8 inch cement breeze block is heavy rude stuff but goes up fairly well too. If 
mortaring cement breeze block though you probably want a good poured footing 
too. I have a situation where ground movement sometimes caused the mortar to 
fail but as often the joint held and the block broke. If a frost line goes any 
distance down it will crack.

Dan used those breeze like blocks but with dowels to hold them together. They 
are somewhat forgiving and don't use mortar but soil will migrate through the 
seams unless they are well stuck down with adhesive and preferably backed with 
land scape fabric.

There, now I think you know probably everything I know about masonry 
construction.

If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie

  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 8:20 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters



  OK Guys (and Gals),

  I'm planning to build a brick planter in front of my home this spring and 
have a few questions. First, let me explain that my home has a 10 square foot 
addition in front that comprises t

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Bill Gallik
Tom,

Let me assure you that I didn't intend to make the house wall part of the 
planter, but rather build a completely, four-sided brick planter.  I do like 
the idea of having a narrow stone path between the house and planter.

Thanks to  all of you for your input, some things came up I hadn't thought 
about at all.

Holland's Person, Bill
- "Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint."
- US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Spiro
as you pointed out, those full measurements are going to cause a problem.




On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Blaine Deutscher wrote:

> if your wanting to build a brick planter with bricks underneath then putting
> rocks in the soil will help as it does in a pot to collect the water. if
> you're just going to put the planter down with brick edging then you don't
> need to worry about any drainage as the water will seap into the ground. One
> thing to be careful with though with brick planters is that it draws the
> water away because the bricks get hot from the sun. if you're wanting to
> have the ability to paint the edge of the house that you want to put the
> brick planter against you could awlas get rocks and put it there so that you
> have a minny walking path to paint the edge of the house. This way though
> you won't have the full measurements that you wanted to cover for a brick
> planter.
>
> Blaine
> - Original Message -
> From: Bill Gallik
> To: Blind Handyman
> Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 7:20 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters
>
>
>
> OK Guys (and Gals),
>
> I'm planning to build a brick planter in front of my home this spring and
> have a few questions. First, let me explain that my home has a 10 square
> foot addition in front that comprises the dining room. This addition sits on
> a concrete foundation that comes up about 1 foot and the addition itself
> extends out in front of the rest of the house 11 feet or so and is likewise
> about 11 feet wide. The sidewalk parallels the southern-most outside wall
> about 5 feet away; this is where I'd like to put the brick planter. In
> short, I have about an 11' by 5' area between the house and sidewalk that I
> would like to "cover" with a brick planter. Here are my questions:
>
> 1) The foundation rises about 1 foot above ground and I'd like to build a
> planter at least 2 feet high; what should I be aware of/concerned about
> where the back wall of the planter would be against or near this foundation
> and siding?
>
> 2) If I build the planter right next to the house, what do I need to think
> about so far as maintaining the integrity of the wood siding on that wall? I
> guess what I want to know is how would I be able to paint that lower tier of
> siding from time to time?
>
> 3) Would I need to line the inside of the planter with some type of water
> proof material?
>
> 4) What about drainage from the planter?
>
> 5) What type of foundation do I need to think about for the planter?
>
> 6) Is it practical or even aesthetically attractive to build a planter right
> out to the sidewalk?
>
> I should say that I'd like this planter to serve as a "guide" for
> snowblowing that part of the sidewalk during the winter so having the
> planter foundation right against the sidewalk is one of my design
> intentions. I like to place 4" ? 4" treated lumber along my sidewalk edges
> (at least one side) to serve as a "boundary" for the snowblower; it makes
> for a much neater, straighter resulting path through the snow as well as
> eliminating "drift" onto the lawn.
>
> Any thoughts, suggestions and warnings will be much appreciated.\
>
> Thanks!
> 
> Holland's Person, Bill
> - "Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint."
> - US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Tom Fowle
I wasn't clear if you'd planned on the planter actually having its back edge
being the wall of the house.

If so, it's a really bad idea as soil against a wall not designed for it is
a highway for water, mold, bugs etc.

You'll need a brick back wall with some seperation between the brick and the
house.  There may well be building code issues both front and back.

Tom fowle


Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Max Robinson
Watch out for local building codes.  Some of them  have a limit as to how 
close a structure can be to the sidewalk.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

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- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Gallik" 
To: "Blind Handyman" 
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 7:20 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters


OK Guys (and Gals),

I'm planning to build a brick planter in front of my home this spring and 
have a few questions.  First, let me explain that my home has a 10 square 
foot addition in front that comprises the dining room.  This addition sits 
on a concrete foundation that comes up about 1 foot and the addition itself 
extends out in front of the rest of the house 11 feet or so and is likewise 
about 11 feet wide.  The sidewalk parallels the southern-most outside wall 
about 5 feet away; this is where I'd like to put the brick planter.  In 
short, I have about an 11' by 5' area between the house and sidewalk that I 
would like to "cover" with a brick planter.  Here are my questions:

1)  The foundation rises about 1 foot above ground and I'd like to build a 
planter at least 2 feet high; what should I be aware of/concerned about 
where the back wall of the planter would be against or near this foundation 
and siding?

2) If I build the planter right next to the house, what do I need to think 
about so far as maintaining the integrity of the wood siding on that wall? 
I guess what I want to know is how would I be able to paint that lower tier 
of siding from time to time?

3)  Would I need to line the inside of the planter with some type of water 
proof material?

4)  What about drainage from the planter?

5)  What type of foundation do I need to think about for the planter?

6)  Is it practical or even aesthetically attractive to build a planter 
right out to the sidewalk?

I should say that I'd like this planter to serve as a "guide" for 
snowblowing that part of the sidewalk during the winter so having the 
planter foundation right against the sidewalk is one of my design 
intentions.  I like to place 4" × 4" treated lumber along my sidewalk edges 
(at least one side) to serve as a "boundary" for the snowblower; it makes 
for a much neater, straighter resulting path through the snow as well as 
eliminating "drift" onto the lawn.

Any thoughts, suggestions and warnings will be much appreciated.\

Thanks!

Holland's Person, Bill
- "Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint."
- US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Blaine Deutscher
oh he'll be the new governer of California is all. hahaha.

Blaine
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters



Bill,

Just a gut feeling here, but if you are talking about essentially burying
one foot of the wall of your house, and it was not designed to be
subterranian, you might be asking for some trouble.

Possibly if you build the brick wall close to the house, but not up
against it, so that there can be some air flow there, you will avoid many
issues.

Two feet is not terribly high, so you can easily get away with landscaping
blocks and avoid having to use mortar.

Drainage is always an issue and you will want to look at this carefully.
you should have gravel on the inside of all the walls of the planter, and
maybe some drainage tube to carry the water away from the house.

Around where I live, there are many houses that have retaining walls right
at the edge of the sidewalk so I think it is visually acceptable in many
places.

If you are building a wall that is essentially 11 X 5 X 2 you are going to
be quite surprised at just how many landscaping blocks that is, and how
heavy those suckers become after the first hundred.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081


 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Dan Rossi
Bill,

Just a gut feeling here, but if you are talking about essentially burying 
one foot of the wall of your house, and it was not designed to be 
subterranian, you might be asking for some trouble.

Possibly if you build the brick wall close to the house, but not up 
against it, so that there can be some air flow there, you will avoid many 
issues.

Two feet is not terribly high, so you can easily get away with landscaping 
blocks and avoid having to use mortar.

Drainage is always an issue and you will want to look at this carefully. 
you should have gravel on the inside of all the walls of the planter, and 
maybe some drainage tube to carry the water away from the house.

Around where I live, there are many houses that have retaining walls right 
at the edge of the sidewalk so I think it is visually acceptable in many 
places.

If you are building a wall that is essentially 11 X 5 X 2 you are going to 
be quite surprised at just how many landscaping blocks that is, and how 
heavy those suckers become after the first hundred.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081


Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters

2010-02-18 Thread Blaine Deutscher
if your wanting to build a brick planter with bricks underneath then putting 
rocks in the soil will help as it does in a pot to collect the water. if 
you're just going to put the planter down with brick edging then you don't 
need to worry about any drainage as the water will seap into the ground. One 
thing to be careful with though with brick planters is that it draws the 
water away because the bricks get hot from the sun. if you're wanting to 
have the ability to paint the edge of the house that you want to put the 
brick planter against you could awlas get rocks and put it there so that you 
have a minny walking path to paint the edge of the house. This way though 
you won't have the full measurements that you wanted to cover for a brick 
planter.

Blaine
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Gallik
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 7:20 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters



OK Guys (and Gals),

I'm planning to build a brick planter in front of my home this spring and 
have a few questions. First, let me explain that my home has a 10 square 
foot addition in front that comprises the dining room. This addition sits on 
a concrete foundation that comes up about 1 foot and the addition itself 
extends out in front of the rest of the house 11 feet or so and is likewise 
about 11 feet wide. The sidewalk parallels the southern-most outside wall 
about 5 feet away; this is where I'd like to put the brick planter. In 
short, I have about an 11' by 5' area between the house and sidewalk that I 
would like to "cover" with a brick planter. Here are my questions:

1) The foundation rises about 1 foot above ground and I'd like to build a 
planter at least 2 feet high; what should I be aware of/concerned about 
where the back wall of the planter would be against or near this foundation 
and siding?

2) If I build the planter right next to the house, what do I need to think 
about so far as maintaining the integrity of the wood siding on that wall? I 
guess what I want to know is how would I be able to paint that lower tier of 
siding from time to time?

3) Would I need to line the inside of the planter with some type of water 
proof material?

4) What about drainage from the planter?

5) What type of foundation do I need to think about for the planter?

6) Is it practical or even aesthetically attractive to build a planter right 
out to the sidewalk?

I should say that I'd like this planter to serve as a "guide" for 
snowblowing that part of the sidewalk during the winter so having the 
planter foundation right against the sidewalk is one of my design 
intentions. I like to place 4" × 4" treated lumber along my sidewalk edges 
(at least one side) to serve as a "boundary" for the snowblower; it makes 
for a much neater, straighter resulting path through the snow as well as 
eliminating "drift" onto the lawn.

Any thoughts, suggestions and warnings will be much appreciated.\

Thanks!

Holland's Person, Bill
- "Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint."
- US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]