Re: [Chevelle-List] Young People and Classic Cars
Just in case anyone out there is afraid to ask any questions ;) Don't forget previous posts to this list are archived at http://www.mail-archive.com/chevelle-list@chevelles.net/ You can do searches to see if the subject has been talked about before. Rodney. 71 Chevelle El Mirage, AZ
Re:[Chevelle-List] Ignorant Older Guy
And the numbers are: 1971 SS 454 2 Dr Coupe w/manual = 2485 w/auto = 3726 rick -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Ignorant Older Guy Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 15:46:18 EDT Need it, got to get it! I have been reading the mail about (some people) abusing the system by spamming the group and being too lazy to do research. I want to categorically state that in my case I am a beginner [even at my age] and am very limited for time- that I am able to devote to any enterprise including computer research. Be that as it may, would someone tell me the most efficient procedure for obtaining the production statistics (run) for a particular model and also how to get a concessus of the retail value for same model. Mine is an 71' SS 454 that I have owned for 31 years. I have recently been doing some upgrades-headers, and some ignition improvements but have some bugs to work out. Thanks in advance, Jim - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] rick schaefer 72 El camino http://www.endrud.net/elcamino/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] 396 on ebay
"CTY" is a 70 396/402 engine, not a 69, according to Chilton's and Team Chevelle. Dale McIntosh ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold 67 SS/67 Elky http://www.dalesplace.com http://www.team67.com http://www.midwestchevelles.com > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jason Boivin > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 10:52 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Chevelle-List] 396 on ebay > > > I found this today. > just thought I would throw it out there. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1844610191 > > Jason > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad.
I had a problem with a turbo 400 I had someone build for me. It sat about a year too. When I ran the car I couldn't figure out why my motor kept eating up the thrust bearing. I spent more time being anal with the details of this motor than any motor I ever built yet I kept finding large amounts of finely ground bearing material in my oil filter after I put the trans in gear for even a few minutes on jack stands. I never even drove the car any further than the end of my street because the trans wouldn't go into 3rd. Everyone told me I had a bad converter causing the thrust bearing problem. I thought it was a bigger problem than the converter because it wouldn't go into third. By now I was ready to change religions if I thought it might help so I borrowed a used converter I knew was good and installed it. Same problem. This time I took the trans out again and took it to a guy who came highly recommended at the race track. Turns out the first guy put the sprag (for second gear I believe) in backwards and it ate up some clutches and a band. I'm told I was lucky I didn't crack the case even with the little amount I drove it on the street. The governor was also screwed up which sent aluminum debris everywhere. My brand new B&M torque converter is full of metal particles and crap from the bands and clutches. He tells me the trans was causing the converter to put a giant load on the flex plate hydraulically whenever the trans was in gear. I hope he's right. I spent another $400 to have the trans redone and I bought a new torque converter from ATI to the tune of $600. Total cost was right at $1000 to be right back where I started. My wife thought I should take it back to the guy who built it to have it repairedI don't think I would let him touch my lawnmower at this point. I'll consider the cost of the first torque converter and trans rebuild an expensive lesson in who "not" to take your transmission to. I pulled the motor and put a new rear main bearing in once already and I still need to put in another new main bearing because the end play of the crank is now at .012 and it's supposed to only be .007. I'm going to make sure the problem is fixed before I pull the motor again though...this is supposed to be a fun hobby, right? At this point I figure would have about a million dollars in labor in my car if my time was worth 5 cents an hour. The trans is back in and I hope to drive it tomorrow and not find anything in the oil filter that doesn't belong there afterwards. I always did everything from paint and body to building engines but for some reason I never got into upholstery or automatic transmissions. I guarantee you, the next step in my automotive education is to learn automatic transmissions. I already bought a book. Bill Vander Werf Mark Weber wrote: I need some opinion from some other people about a problem I have with the transmission in my 71 BBC SS I am restoring.The background: Bought rebuilt TH700r4 that was built to stand high horsepower and torque during summer of 2001, installed into frame and it sat for about 1 year. Did not get the body on the frame until spring 2002, and did not get the car on drivable (hood on, aligned, insured etc) until June 2002. With only 150 miles on the car, the torque converter blew up during a 2 - 3 shift last Friday and pumped metal through the trans. During the previous 150 miles, the shifts were pretty soft. It has shift kits and many other components that were supposed to give it a good firm shift. A trans shop I talked to this week said a weak pump would cause low pressure and mushy shifts. I suspect that was a problem too.The problem: The company I bought it from says that's too bad. The warrantee was 6 months and they have to stick to this. They offered to rebuild it and put parts in for cost and go easy on the labor charges if I ship it to them, 2000 miles away.I am not an unreasonable person. I halfway understand where they are coming from with having to draw a line somewhere. Does anybody else have a similar experience with a problem that showed up later due to a long restoration time period? Or, is this just bad luck and that's the way it is?I don't think I got anything in writing about starting the warrantee once the car is drivable. I will check my email box at work tomorrow though, maybe there is something there.I have not talked to the owner of the place yet. But the guy I did talk to supposedly got his instructions from the owner.Guess I need to whine to somebody. Bummed because I can see the first 150 miles I put on the car ending up costing $6.67 per mile for transmission repair alone :( Does anybody have any advise?Thanks for listening.Mark71 SS
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
Thanks for making your point...I cannot even reply without get banged around. Chad - Original Message - From: "Brenna Olwine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 10:57 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > Why are you 'mature' people so rude? Have you thought about the fact > that there aren't many young people interested in vintage cars anymore? > We belong to two old car clubs and the average age of the members is 60. > Think about the legislation that has been trying to pass in several > states that would ban older cars. We need young blood. Make your point > but don't insult people. > Brenna > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Keith Cooper > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 8:15 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > Mister questions, have you tried, > http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl1.html > Look, get off your lazy a... and use that computer. The Internet is full > of > information. You just want to sit there and ask questions because your > too > lazy. If your too lazy to looked up information, I doubt you will > remember > 1/4th of any information that has been given here from the list. > 1) DO A SEARCH ON WELDERS. > 2) GO TO WWW.CHEVELLES.COM > 3) GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GO PLAY > WITH SOME FRIENDS, THAT IF YOU HAVE > ANY. > Keith Cooper > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > Well, is there a specific welder you should use when welding this > (panel, > > frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "aaw1255" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM > > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > > > > Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) > welder is > > an > > > arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, > gas > > metal > > > arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common "stick" > > SMAW(shielded > > > metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another > > popular > > > form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, > gas > > > tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc > > welding. > > > Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of > > welding,(arc, > > > gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) > I > > just > > > thought I should point out that the most common types that people > use(not > > > including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc > to > > weld. > > > (Sorry, you said, "correct me if I am wrong" -- The whole arc > welding > > thing is > > > one of my pet peeves) > > > > > > Aaron Weaver > > > 67 SS 396 > > > > > > >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = > > > >I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was > wondering, > > > >which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders > are > the > > > >best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. > > Correct > > > >me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the > metal > is > > > >for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld > is > > > >supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is > > a...1970 > > > >Body Panel? > > > > > > > > > Bye > > Bye, > > > > > > > >Chad > > > > > > > >- > > > >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > > > > - > > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
You really are hung up on the 'mature' thing! sorry thinking out loud, Nobody on this list minds questions, thats what this list is about, learning how to do and fix and preserve the cars that we love. I believe that the list as a whole has done it's part to help young Chad in his quest for knowledge! but it becomes a time when some of the simplest questions that get asked, a person that doesn't know a bicycle from a backhoe would know! There comes a time when a person needs to research on there own, there isn't anything that the lad has asked that he couldn't have plugged into his browser and come up with a Thousand web sites devoted to his question! I fancy myself some what of an expert on the 66 SS, because that is the car that I own, and most of my information has come in the form of many hours researching, and the many many books I have purchased, and the many hours, weeks, days spent taking apart and putting this car back together. Nothing pleases me more than to be able to answer a persons question about a Chevelle regardless of the year, and yes I think it's great that young folks take a hand in preserving these cars that someday will only be found in a mueseam. Only older folks mess with these cars, your mostly right, the reason is that it takes a wad of cash to restore one of these cars to it's original glory! and on the other hand it takes as much money for those who race on the track, it takes as much money to make a car go really fast, high performance speed equipment doesn't come cheep. And that leaves the kid in the rust bucket and glasspacks, who's only goal in life is to spin the wheels off his car, and he doesn't have the means or the desire to aquire, or even care that a 1966 396/375hp engine had a Holley R-3613A carb, part number 3893229. Ever try to price one of these babys that date coded? don't get me wrong, there are lots of young folks who wish for and restore these cars, but the fact of the matter is older people are the ones who do this because they are the ones who can afford to. But anyways, we love to answer questions about these cars, and love to teach about what it takes, to take one apart and put it back together. My point to all this is, we have as a group have answered many many of his questions, and it has come to the point in time where an Eleven or Twelve year old kid has worn us a little thin, I'm not the only one. it just gets a little old answering Five Thousand questions, when the only thing he is going to remember tommorow is the picture of the frame with the Twenty Five inch tires on it and think cool, bet that thing will really smoke em. His summertime boredom has just taken it's toll on quite a few folks here Thats my opinion on the subject and the last that I will ever speak of it!!! I am sorry if I have offended anyone. Rocky Hill Mid America Chevelle Club Member #220 Team Chevelle Member #1530 My66SS http://www.geocities.com --- Brenna Olwine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Why are you 'mature' people so rude? Have you > thought about the fact > that there aren't many young people interested in > vintage cars anymore? > We belong to two old car clubs and the average age > of the members is 60. > Think about the legislation that has been trying to > pass in several > states that would ban older cars. We need young > blood. Make your point > but don't insult people. > Brenna > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf > Of Keith Cooper > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 8:15 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of > welding? > > Mister questions, have you tried, > http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl1.html > Look, get off your lazy a... and use that computer. > The Internet is full > of > information. You just want to sit there and ask > questions because your > too > lazy. If your too lazy to looked up information, I > doubt you will > remember > 1/4th of any information that has been given here > from the list. > 1) DO A SEARCH ON WELDERS. > 2) GO TO WWW.CHEVELLES.COM > 3) GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GO PLAY > WITH SOME FRIENDS, THAT IF YOU HAVE > ANY. > Keith Cooper > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of > welding? > > > > Well, is there a specific welder you should use > when welding this > (panel, > > frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "aaw1255" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM > > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of > welding? > > > > > > > Your welding terminology is a bit off. A > MIG(metal inert gas) > welder is > > an > > > arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is > also known as a GMAW, > gas > > metal > > > arc welder. I believe you are refering to th
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ?????????
I don't have the all answers. I have been out of vintage cars for sometime. About 15 years and I have just recently decided to start a resto project of my own.I joined this list to hopefully learn a few things myself. JDHall - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 11:21 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ? >Agreed...>JDHall So how come you guys aren't answering his questions or pointing him to the web for answers??? Kelly & Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
[Chevelle-List] Young people and classic cars
I agree with Don, Kelley, Herb & Tom. It does get annoying and it has been pointed out as to the reason why. Several hundred questions in a short time span with obviously no effort to research it before asking the questions. Nobody wants to discourage anyone from learning or asking. I think everyone should be free to ask almost anything on the list that's car related in any way. But there is a point where you have to start to wonder if it is being done purposely to annoy people. I notice he has a hotmail address which could help to hide a prankster's identity. As for the few guys that make a good point that we don't want to make anyone afraid to ask questions. That is true. But I don't think that anyone will get annoyed if a single person asks a few questions even if they have been covered many times in the past. The people on this list have been extremely courteous as I have asked a ton of them myself, but only after not being able to find the answer elsewhere or to get personal experience information on a specific item. I also have contributed information when I could as well. I will point out here and now that there are many other resources of information on the internet. If you need a lesson in how to go to www.google.com or any other search engine and type in a question or a few key words to do a search, contact me off list and I will be glad to help. Other resources that can be used and have much good information on their sites include vendors. They tell you what their products do and what they are for. For example: http://www.lincolnelectric.com for welders & info http://www.edelbrock.com Will get you performance parts for engines & info. You can even write Tech Support as I did. Not all answers are on web sites, and sometimes you would like other opinions from experience. That's why this list is popular. But, in my opinion, the list would work to serve us all best if it wasn't turned into mechanic school 101. Maybe what Chad needs is a mentor to take the questions private? Or maybe point out how he could have found the answers by pointing to a web site that has the answer. Chad, if you want to ask someone questions in private you can write me e-mail at [EMAIL PROTECTED] That should help reduce the list traffic. But be prepared to get sent on a search of web sites and other sources of info. I won't hand you answers easily, but show you how to research them for yourself as I have done. Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 396 on ebay
I found this today. just thought I would throw it out there. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1844610191 Jason - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ?????????
>I believe several people have tried. I have answered a couple of his questions. I choose to ignore most of them. >Don I know you have and a couple of others have, but I meant the guys that are complaining about the rest of us who are tired of the twenty questions routine. I answered a couple of them too, but when you get over a hundred in a week, you start to wonder if you're being played or if the person is legit in asking. BTW your last email was right on the nose. These guys might be really interested in learning all about Chevelles and the arts of restoration and restification...if they are I have one little snippet of advicetry not to learn it all in one week or month. This type of info takes a long time to absorb. I've been at it for a long time and can't hold a candle to some of these people. There's a billion places on the web to find info and print or bookmark it. In the old days (like I'm ancient), we had magazines as our only other source besides asking folks at the drags or in auto shops. The magazines got worn out very quicklyyou can't wear out the Internet. Kelly & Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] No magazines required...
Hey Mikey, You have a valid point. A lot of articles are nothing more than an advertisement. I subscribe to 4 auto/cycle mags and I've found some very good informative articles amongst the crappy ad-articles. Like I said, the magazines are just another source of info, plus they usually have some decent feature cars to drool over! cYa- Herb Lumpp1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9"ACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: Capt Crunch To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 9:20 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] No magazines required... Well I'm 50/50 her. First off I think alot of the stuff in Magazines lately is CRAP! The articles seem to be more like advertisements for parts and there has been a lot of controversy in the past year or two about the actually $$$ in projects and the dyno results of such combos. I would say the real info to be learned is from reputable people around you, books, and some sites on the net are good, but you gotta be careful. Learn about the theory and physics of the combustion engine and work your way from there. On the other hand... No disrespect Chad, for as many messages at a variety of times of day that Chad has posted he really hasn't seemed to make much effort on his own. Take a day off Chad and go do some reading at the Library. That is just how I see things. Mikey
Re: [Chevelle-List] No magazines required...
Thanks Steve. cYa- Herb Lumpp 1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9" ACES 3509, MCC 528 http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: "Chevelle 69" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:20 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] No magazines required... > Paul, > No need to be over sensitive. Herb is one of the nicest guys on > this list and a major contributor. I happen to agree with him that the > younger guys here expect you to answer their every little question and > they don't bother to go do research. Just do the research guys and come > back and tell us what you find. If you still have questions, then ask. > You may indeed teach a lot of us something. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] How Stuff Works
Rocky, I think what's so cool is it has great info about automotive subjects and just about anything else you can think of. BTW, I really like your '66 SS. cYa- Herb Lumpp 1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9" ACES 3509, MCC 528 http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: "rocky hill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chevelle list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 4:33 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] How Stuff Works > Herb, > Someone posted this site in one of the forums on Team > Chevelle not to long ago, it was one of the best sites > on the works of engines I have seen, even if you know > how they work I think anyone could get something from > it. It's a good one to bookmark. > > Rocky Hill > My66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Young People and Classic Cars
Ok time for a subject change I'm going to chime in on the not many young people interested in vintage cars comment. This is entirely untrue. In fact I myself being 22 years old now own 6 mucsle cars (3 Chevelles, 2 Chargers, and a Dart). My parents have a 67 Jaguar XKE Roadster and a 69 Big Block Cutlass. My cousin, who is 16, owns a 73 Cuda. I also have another cousin who whould be interested in acquiring an A body El Camino and she is 19. I can think of countless others under the age of 25 that have these older cars. States are not banning older cars. What they are attempting to do is this. As it reads in a propsed NJ State Legislation bill, the keeping of cars/parts cars on residential property is to be prohibited or to be kept from public view. This bill was shot down on national level early this year. That says to me that local governments can tell you what you can and cannot do on your private property which to me and I am sure others will agree is BS. If it's not in public view, who cares. I personally have made calls to the local Assemblymen about this and have been wacthing it carefully. I have a copy of the proposed bill if anyone would like to see it. The average age of the classic/muscle car owners here is roughly between 30-50. There also is a decent amount of teenagers attending car shows around here that are into the muscle cars, not the import market which is good to see. Insult is not the objective on this list, never was, never will be. The fact that 180 emails have been sent by one person in the course of 2 weeks is a little ridiculous just as is the effect it is having by everyone else replying to them. The thing that is beginning to irritate people is the fact that all of these questions are being asked, when 95% of the answers are in Super Chevy or Hot Rod magazine. and there is just as much info on the Team Chevelle web site and Tech Forums. I can guaruntee that you can find any answer to any question in the Team Chevelle Tech Archives if you take the time to look them up. I, along with so many others have spent countless hours reading these pages upon pages ! of information only to gain on what we already know. Even if you sit and watch any of the great shows on Speed Channel (formerly Speedvision) you can get most of the answers to these questions, and the best thing is you can watch them actually perform demonstrations while they are explaining. I think it is cool that Chad is intrerested in Chevelles. I just think that he should do a lot more homework on them instead of asking so many questions. Like what was previously stated, the internet is a powerful tool, use it to your advantage. There are so many resources out there to be used, use them. I literally have a full binder full of info on the 1970 model year that I pulled off the internet. I am currently trying to put one together for the 1969 model year. One of the best tools I have picked up is a book called "How To Restore Your Muscle Car" by Greg Donahue and Paul Zazarine. It gives step by step instructions on how to take a car apart and put it back together including paint and body work. Chilton Maunals are also very handy to have around. This is all I am saying on the subject. The needless replies need to stop or Al may have to get a bigger server again to handle all the nonsense emails :-) Tom 70 Chevelle SS
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ?????????
I believe several people have tried. I have answered a couple of his questions. I choose to ignore most of them. Don So how come you guys aren't answering his questions or pointing him to the web for answers??? Kelly & Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ?????????
>Agreed... >JDHall So how come you guys aren't answering his questions or pointing him to the web for answers??? Kelly & Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ?????????
I don't think anyone on the list is really encouraging people not to ask questions. This list has been around for a long time & all has gone well with much back & forth information & questions. Recently we have had a couple of very young people join the list. We all like to see young people interested in our hobby & willing to learn. However a 12 year old has the knowledge base, the mentality & the maturity of a 12 year old. That is hard for some members to take. A very few keep asking very basic questions over & over. Like when little kids keep saying "why" to every answer you give them. Each question may be legitimate & each answer different, but it gets old after awhile. Some members are just trying to direct the younger ones towards other areas where they can learn. They can learn a lot just by reading the posts. They can then ask questions of the list that they can't get other places or at least ask questions that are not so very basic. An adult who know little about our hobby still asks intelligent questions & learns from the answers. Sometimes kids do not. No one really wants to dampen the kids spirits but just get them under control a little. For all of us adults on the list, let's try to remember, they're only kids, we're the adults. We should be able to peacefully & tactfully control them instead of letting them control us. My opinion. Don > Listen guys.. I am kind of new to this list and have even asked a question > (which nobody answered) ;) but this is getting kind of rediculous that > people are being encouraged to NOT ask questions on a list that is supposed > to be about providing info on Chevelles. There are a ton of people that have > different ideas on which welder is best (not me though ;)) ... I think he > was just wanting to get other Chevelle owners. Let's have some patience... > Some of us just need to be directed to the water so we know which one is > safe to drink > > Just my 2cents... > > Larry > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Keith Cooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:15 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > Mister questions, have you tried, http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl1.html > > Look, get off your lazy a... and use that computer. The Internet is full > of > > information. You just want to sit there and ask questions because your too > > lazy. If your too lazy to looked up information, I doubt you will > remember > > 1/4th of any information that has been given here from the list. > > 1) DO A SEARCH ON WELDERS. > > 2) GO TO WWW.CHEVELLES.COM > > 3) GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GO PLAY > > WITH SOME FRIENDS, THAT IF YOU HAVE > > ANY. > > Keith Cooper > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:44 PM > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > > > > Well, is there a specific welder you should use when welding this > (panel, > > > frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "aaw1255" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM > > > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > > > > > > > Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) welder > is > > > an > > > > arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, > gas > > > metal > > > > arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common "stick" > > > SMAW(shielded > > > > metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another > > > popular > > > > form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, > gas > > > > tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc > > > welding. > > > > Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of > > > welding,(arc, > > > > gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) I > > > just > > > > thought I should point out that the most common types that people > > use(not > > > > including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc to > > > weld. > > > > (Sorry, you said, "correct me if I am wrong" -- The whole arc welding > > > thing is > > > > one of my pet peeves) > > > > > > > > Aaron Weaver > > > > 67 SS 396 > > > > > > > > >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = > > > > >I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was > > wondering, > > > > >which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are > > the > > > > >best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. > > > Correct > > > > >me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the > metal > > is > > > > >for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld > is > > > > >supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is > > > a...19
RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
Why are you 'mature' people so rude? Have you thought about the fact that there aren't many young people interested in vintage cars anymore? We belong to two old car clubs and the average age of the members is 60. Think about the legislation that has been trying to pass in several states that would ban older cars. We need young blood. Make your point but don't insult people. Brenna -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Keith Cooper Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 8:15 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? Mister questions, have you tried, http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl1.html Look, get off your lazy a... and use that computer. The Internet is full of information. You just want to sit there and ask questions because your too lazy. If your too lazy to looked up information, I doubt you will remember 1/4th of any information that has been given here from the list. 1) DO A SEARCH ON WELDERS. 2) GO TO WWW.CHEVELLES.COM 3) GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GO PLAY WITH SOME FRIENDS, THAT IF YOU HAVE ANY. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > Well, is there a specific welder you should use when welding this (panel, > frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? > > - Original Message - > From: "aaw1255" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) welder is > an > > arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, gas > metal > > arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common "stick" > SMAW(shielded > > metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another > popular > > form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, gas > > tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc > welding. > > Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of > welding,(arc, > > gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) I > just > > thought I should point out that the most common types that people use(not > > including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc to > weld. > > (Sorry, you said, "correct me if I am wrong" -- The whole arc welding > thing is > > one of my pet peeves) > > > > Aaron Weaver > > 67 SS 396 > > > > >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = > > >I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was wondering, > > >which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are the > > >best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. > Correct > > >me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the metal is > > >for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld is > > >supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is > a...1970 > > >Body Panel? > > > > > > Bye > Bye, > > > > > >Chad > > > > > >- > > >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ?????????
Agreed... JDHall - Original Message - From: "Larry Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 10:34 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ? > Listen guys.. I am kind of new to this list and have even asked a question > (which nobody answered) ;) but this is getting kind of rediculous that > people are being encouraged to NOT ask questions on a list that is supposed > to be about providing info on Chevelles. There are a ton of people that have > different ideas on which welder is best (not me though ;)) ... I think he > was just wanting to get other Chevelle owners. Let's have some patience... > Some of us just need to be directed to the water so we know which one is > safe to drink > > Just my 2cents... > > Larry > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Keith Cooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:15 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > Mister questions, have you tried, http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl1.html > > Look, get off your lazy a... and use that computer. The Internet is full > of > > information. You just want to sit there and ask questions because your too > > lazy. If your too lazy to looked up information, I doubt you will > remember > > 1/4th of any information that has been given here from the list. > > 1) DO A SEARCH ON WELDERS. > > 2) GO TO WWW.CHEVELLES.COM > > 3) GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GO PLAY > > WITH SOME FRIENDS, THAT IF YOU HAVE > > ANY. > > Keith Cooper > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:44 PM > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > > > > Well, is there a specific welder you should use when welding this > (panel, > > > frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "aaw1255" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM > > > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > > > > > > > Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) welder > is > > > an > > > > arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, > gas > > > metal > > > > arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common "stick" > > > SMAW(shielded > > > > metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another > > > popular > > > > form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, > gas > > > > tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc > > > welding. > > > > Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of > > > welding,(arc, > > > > gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) I > > > just > > > > thought I should point out that the most common types that people > > use(not > > > > including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc to > > > weld. > > > > (Sorry, you said, "correct me if I am wrong" -- The whole arc welding > > > thing is > > > > one of my pet peeves) > > > > > > > > Aaron Weaver > > > > 67 SS 396 > > > > > > > > >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = > > > > >I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was > > wondering, > > > > >which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are > > the > > > > >best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. > > > Correct > > > > >me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the > metal > > is > > > > >for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld > is > > > > >supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is > > > a...1970 > > > > >Body Panel? > > > > > > > > > > > Bye > > > Bye, > > > > > > > > > >Chad > > > > > > > > > >- > > > > >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > > >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > - > > > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > > - > > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please vis
Re: [Chevelle-List] How Stuff Works
This is one of the BEST sites I've ever seen! It TELLS you EVERYTHING! Thanks a bunch! Chad - Original Message - From: Herbert Lumpp To: Chevelle List Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 8:50 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] How Stuff Works The below link is a perfect place for beginners and veterans alike to find out how just about anything works: http://www.howstuffworks.com/index.htm I refer to it quite often... cYa- Herb Lumpp1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9"ACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? ?????????
Listen guys.. I am kind of new to this list and have even asked a question (which nobody answered) ;) but this is getting kind of rediculous that people are being encouraged to NOT ask questions on a list that is supposed to be about providing info on Chevelles. There are a ton of people that have different ideas on which welder is best (not me though ;)) ... I think he was just wanting to get other Chevelle owners. Let's have some patience... Some of us just need to be directed to the water so we know which one is safe to drink Just my 2cents... Larry - Original Message - From: "Keith Cooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > Mister questions, have you tried, http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl1.html > Look, get off your lazy a... and use that computer. The Internet is full of > information. You just want to sit there and ask questions because your too > lazy. If your too lazy to looked up information, I doubt you will remember > 1/4th of any information that has been given here from the list. > 1) DO A SEARCH ON WELDERS. > 2) GO TO WWW.CHEVELLES.COM > 3) GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GO PLAY > WITH SOME FRIENDS, THAT IF YOU HAVE > ANY. > Keith Cooper > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > Well, is there a specific welder you should use when welding this (panel, > > frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "aaw1255" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM > > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > > > > Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) welder is > > an > > > arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, gas > > metal > > > arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common "stick" > > SMAW(shielded > > > metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another > > popular > > > form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, gas > > > tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc > > welding. > > > Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of > > welding,(arc, > > > gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) I > > just > > > thought I should point out that the most common types that people > use(not > > > including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc to > > weld. > > > (Sorry, you said, "correct me if I am wrong" -- The whole arc welding > > thing is > > > one of my pet peeves) > > > > > > Aaron Weaver > > > 67 SS 396 > > > > > > >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = > > > >I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was > wondering, > > > >which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are > the > > > >best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. > > Correct > > > >me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the metal > is > > > >for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld is > > > >supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is > > a...1970 > > > >Body Panel? > > > > > > > > Bye > > Bye, > > > > > > > >Chad > > > > > > > >- > > > >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > > > > - > > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re:[Chevelle-List] Ignorant Older Guy
IOG (I like that :) ) If you can wait a while, order this poster http://www.designscomputed.com/a_body_68_72.html It has a bunch of good production info for 68-72 Chevelles. OR I'll be home in a couple hours and I'll check the poster hangin on my wall. Is it auto or stick? As for value, there are so many variables. How original is it? . What original documentation do you have? There are so many post 68 SS clones, that most serious buyers want to see proof of pedigree. Could be anywhere from 3K to 15-20K Just depends on the buyer. rick schaefer 72 El camino http://www.endrud.net/elcamino/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
Mister questions, have you tried, http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl1.html Look, get off your lazy a... and use that computer. The Internet is full of information. You just want to sit there and ask questions because your too lazy. If your too lazy to looked up information, I doubt you will remember 1/4th of any information that has been given here from the list. 1) DO A SEARCH ON WELDERS. 2) GO TO WWW.CHEVELLES.COM 3) GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GO PLAY WITH SOME FRIENDS, THAT IF YOU HAVE ANY. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > Well, is there a specific welder you should use when welding this (panel, > frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? > > - Original Message - > From: "aaw1255" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > > > > Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) welder is > an > > arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, gas > metal > > arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common "stick" > SMAW(shielded > > metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another > popular > > form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, gas > > tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc > welding. > > Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of > welding,(arc, > > gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) I > just > > thought I should point out that the most common types that people use(not > > including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc to > weld. > > (Sorry, you said, "correct me if I am wrong" -- The whole arc welding > thing is > > one of my pet peeves) > > > > Aaron Weaver > > 67 SS 396 > > > > >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = > > >I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was wondering, > > >which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are the > > >best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. > Correct > > >me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the metal is > > >for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld is > > >supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is > a...1970 > > >Body Panel? > > > > > >Bye > Bye, > > > > > >Chad > > > > > >- > > >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re:[Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad.
Mark Sorry to hear about your bad luck, especially when its so expensive. Soft shifts in a 700r4 are a typical symptom of a misadjusted TV cable. Are you sure it was adjusted correctly? And I don't know how or why it would effect the T/C?? For more on the 700 read some of the info here: http://links.chevelles.net/links/WorkShop/Manual_Auto_Tranny/ And I don't know how you'd convince the builder to repair it. From his point of view, how does he KNOW how long it was run. Good luck, I hope that he will work with you on it. rick -- "Mark Weber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: I need some opinion from some other people about a problem I have with the transmission in my 71 BBC SS I am restoring. The background: Bought rebuilt TH700r4 that was built to stand high horsepower and torque during summer of 2001, installed into frame and it sat for about 1 year. Did not get the body on the frame until spring 2002, and did not get the car on drivable (hood on, aligned, insured etc) until June 2002. With only 150 miles on the car, the torque converter blew up during a 2 - 3 shift last Friday and pumped metal through the trans. During the previous 150 miles, the shifts were pretty soft. It has shift kits and many other components that were supposed to give it a good firm shift. A trans shop I talked to this week said a weak pump would cause low pressure and mushy shifts. I suspect that was a problem too. The problem: The company I bought it from says that's too bad. The warrantee was 6 months and they have to stick to this. They offered to rebuild it and put parts in for cost and go easy on the labor charges if I ship it to them, 2000 miles away. I am not an unreasonable person. I halfway understand where they are coming from with having to draw a line somewhere. Does anybody else have a similar experience with a problem that showed up later due to a long restoration time period? Or, is this just bad luck and that's the way it is? I don't think I got anything in writing about starting the warrantee once the car is drivable. I will check my email box at work tomorrow though, maybe there is something there. I have not talked to the owner of the place yet. But the guy I did talk to supposedly got his instructions from the owner. Guess I need to whine to somebody. Bummed because I can see the first 150 miles I put on the car ending up costing $6.67 per mile for transmission repair alone Does anybody have any advise? Thanks for listening. Mark 71 SS rick schaefer 72 El camino http://www.endrud.net/elcamino/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
Well, is there a specific welder you should use when welding this (panel, frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? - Original Message - From: "aaw1255" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) welder is an > arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, gas metal > arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common "stick" SMAW(shielded > metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another popular > form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, gas > tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc welding. > Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of welding,(arc, > gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) I just > thought I should point out that the most common types that people use(not > including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc to weld. > (Sorry, you said, "correct me if I am wrong" -- The whole arc welding thing is > one of my pet peeves) > > Aaron Weaver > 67 SS 396 > > >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = > >I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was wondering, > >which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are the > >best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. Correct > >me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the metal is > >for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld is > >supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is a...1970 > >Body Panel? > > > >Bye Bye, > > > >Chad > > > >- > >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle in france or in europe
hey 6'4" and 200 , bud rethink your puniness. I am 5'4" 180, you are viking material . you go Andre.One French dude 8 generations out. Fougeres , France. - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:21 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle in france or in europe > Bonjour Monseúr, > > I think I'm the only one, as somebody said Norwegian (Viking)and I live > in Bologna Italy. > > As for the viking thing thats not quite thru as I'm just 6'4" @ lbs 200 > > André > > > Hello > > > > I 'm in France near Paris and I have a chevelle SS 1968. > > I want to know, if there are french chevelle's owners in this list ? > (or in europe) > > > > Thank > > > > Florent > > > > > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] No magazines required...
the same with me but i am the youngest here and thats where i learn to do it right kyle m - Original Message - From: "Herbert Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 8:09 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] No magazines required... > My point was, I would rather see posts like: "I read an article about > 'insert subject here' in 'insert magazine here' and the article said: > 'insert comments here.' What do you guys (and gals) think about that?" > > Instead of the constant: "What is this? What is that?" type of posts with no > contributions to the list. > > I know I'm not the oldest person on the list, but when I started learning > about cars I read lots of magazines, took auto shop in high school, helped > my dad work on his cars, and eventually got worked on my own cars. I didn't > have a computer with hundreds of people at my fingertips. I know almost > everyone on the list can relate... > > I'm not upset or mad, I'm just pointing out there is more than one source of > information and suggest some people try it once in a while. > > cYa- > > Herb Lumpp > 1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9" > ACES 3509, MCC 528 > http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Jeff Fischer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:20 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > I didn't know these terms either and was also curious. Can't I get an > > answer here without being told to go buy a magazine? > > > > > > -- > > Jeff Fischer > > Lake Elmo, MN > > '71 Chevelle SS, 454, 4 spd > > http://home.attbi.com/~addss/chevelle.html > > > > > > > > > > > > At 11:15 PM 7/21/2002 -0700, you wrote: > > >Chad, > > > > > >I'm not normally one to give people a hard time, especially when a person > is > > >trying to learn about something I love - cars. But come on, take some of > > >your allowance and go buy a Car Craft or Hot Rod magazine. The answer to > > >almost every question you've asked could have been found in one of those > > >magazines. > > > > > >A subscription is only $9.95... > > > > > >cYa- > > > > > >Herb Lumpp > > >1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9" > > >ACES 3509, MCC 528 > > >http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ > > > > > > > > >- Original Message - > > >From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 7:54 PM > > >Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > > > Also - what is the term "tubbed" and "backhalved"? > > > >See ya, > > > > > Chad > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] too many questions???
i send alot but i dont ask many questions kyle m - Original Message - From: "Keith Cooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:21 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] too many questions??? > I counted 176 posting by Chad. > Keith Cooper > > - Original Message - > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 8:47 PM > Subject: [Chevelle-List] too many questions??? > > > > Chad, I wasn't pointing fingers. I've been on this list since it started > years > > ago. This is by no means a 'new' situation. > > Although I do have 163 emails from you since 6/25. :-) That is quite a > few. > > > > Please feel free to ask questions and participate. Just understand that > many of > > us are on multiple email lists and a lot of us are pretty motivated to do > the > > legwork and research to learn as much as we can. And most of us will > expect > > others to do the same. > > > > take care, and enjoy! > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > Sorry guys, I didn't know it was bothering you...expessically bothering > you > > > THAT much...I'll lay off...sorry... > > > Sincerely, > > > Chad > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:42 PM > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > Jeff, the issue isn't getting answers on this list without buying a > > > magazine. > > > > The issue is that sometimes we sometimes get a TON of questions from > the > > > same > > > > guy. It's obvious that the person doesn't make any effort to learn on > > > his/her > > > > own. Hence, it's very easy to get frustrated with answering really > easy > > > > questions over and over when the answers are often covered in most any > > > magazine > > > > on the newstand. > > > > > > > > Ask away, just don't abuse it. :-)))This is a great list, and a > great > > > bunch > > > > of people. Not perfect, but a great bunch anyway. > > > > I think Chad answered your questions also, so I won't rehash. > > > > > > > > BTW: nice car! > > > > > > > > take care, > > > > > > > > Jeff Fischer wrote: > > > > > > > > > I didn't know these terms either and was also curious. Can't I get > an > > > > > answer here without being told to go buy a magazine? > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > Jeff Fischer > > > > > Lake Elmo, MN > > > > > '71 Chevelle SS, 454, 4 spd > > > > > http://home.attbi.com/~addss/chevelle.html > > > > > > > > > > At 11:15 PM 7/21/2002 -0700, you wrote: > > > > > >Chad, > > > > > > > > > > > >I'm not normally one to give people a hard time, especially when a > > > person is > > > > > >trying to learn about something I love - cars. But come on, take > some > > > of > > > > > >your allowance and go buy a Car Craft or Hot Rod magazine. The > answer > > > to > > > > > >almost every question you've asked could have been found in one of > > > those > > > > > >magazines. > > > > > > > > > > > >A subscription is only $9.95... > > > > > > > > > > > >cYa- > > > > > > > > > > > >Herb Lumpp > > > > > >1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9" > > > > > >ACES 3509, MCC 528 > > > > > >http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >- Original Message - > > > > > >From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > >Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 7:54 PM > > > > > >Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Also - what is the term "tubbed" and "backhalved"? > > > > > > > > See > > > ya, > > > > > > > > > > Chad > > > > > > > > > > - > > > > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com > > > > and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html > > > > Tremec Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com > > > > Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > - > > > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > > - > > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > -- > > Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com > > and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html > > Tremec Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com > > Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold) > > > > > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscrib
[Chevelle-List] Transmission Bad.
>Does anybody have any advise? Yep, but you and others on the list may not like it. I had to rebuild a 2004R twice last year for the same reason. These little smog car four speeds are not made for anything over 250hpeven when they are rebuilt by so called performance companies, they rarely put in the HD components necessary to give them the strength they need to handle the big torque numbers. The first thing they miss is the HD pump and the second is usually the stator. They also rarely put in the HD servo unit. My 200 (even after the second rebuild by an expert company) wasn't nearly as crisp a shifter as my TH-350 in the Elky. Anyway, the way I see it is either can the tranny and get one made by a major company (unless that's where you bought it from in the first place) that will stand behind it. If the one you have had a problem the first 150 miles, it'll probably not be much better the second time around. You could have it redone locally, but then it might cost you up to $1600. My advice? Get rid of the toy tranny and get yourself a good TH-400. I know it'll hurt gas mileage, but did you really build your car for mileage? If the answer is yes, then you might have to give them a shot at repairing it, but I'd rather gamble the Cowboys winning the Super Bowl next year than that! Kelly & Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
[Chevelle-List] How Stuff Works
Herb, Someone posted this site in one of the forums on Team Chevelle not to long ago, it was one of the best sites on the works of engines I have seen, even if you know how they work I think anyone could get something from it. It's a good one to bookmark. Rocky Hill My66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale.
I have also read this article and it is very good.. Rob Means "be good,if not,be good at it [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 4:43 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > Buy the August 2002 issue of CAR CRAFT, on the newsstand now. Page 68 has > an excellent article, "What's Up With Stall," that will tell you everything > you need to know about stall speeds in automatic transmission torque > converters. > > John Nasta > > > -Original Message- > > Also, what is a stall converter? i have heard SO MUCH about them and i hear > about 8" 3500 RPM and such and what the heck is that? thanks for the info, > i greatly appreciate it! > > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] State inspection? Correction
>Kelly, I have a supercharger and this makes it difficult and you have to have original steering wheel also. The >inspector showed me it to me in the book. Yep, the supercharger would make it difficult...you should probably register the car elsewhere (rural) and get out of that crapI've never heard og=f the steering wheel thing...most of the testers must not bother with that one...wonder what the deal with that is? Kelly & Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad.
I know that this may not help, but. I had a stock transmission in my 71 Chevelle and broke the ears from the pump when I put the torque converter on. DUMB DUMB mistake which I knew not to do, but... I went to a local transmission shop which replaced the pump for under 60.00. Again, I do not know if this is the same pump part you are speaking of and not the same type of transmission, but maybe the repair cost won't be as bad as you think. Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Mark Weber To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 5:47 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad. I need some opinion from some other people about a problem I have with the transmission in my 71 BBC SS I am restoring. The background: Bought rebuilt TH700r4 that was built to stand high horsepower and torque during summer of 2001, installed into frame and it sat for about 1 year. Did not get the body on the frame until spring 2002, and did not get the car on drivable (hood on, aligned, insured etc) until June 2002. With only 150 miles on the car, the torque converter blew up during a 2 - 3 shift last Friday and pumped metal through the trans. During the previous 150 miles, the shifts were pretty soft. It has shift kits and many other components that were supposed to give it a good firm shift. A trans shop I talked to this week said a weak pump would cause low pressure and mushy shifts. I suspect that was a problem too. The problem: The company I bought it from says that's too bad. The warrantee was 6 months and they have to stick to this. They offered to rebuild it and put parts in for cost and go easy on the labor charges if I ship it to them, 2000 miles away. I am not an unreasonable person. I halfway understand where they are coming from with having to draw a line somewhere. Does anybody else have a similar experience with a problem that showed up later due to a long restoration time period? Or, is this just bad luck and that's the way it is? I don't think I got anything in writing about starting the warrantee once the car is drivable. I will check my email box at work tomorrow though, maybe there is something there. I have not talked to the owner of the place yet. But the guy I did talk to supposedly got his instructions from the owner. Guess I need to whine to somebody. Bummed because I can see the first 150 miles I put on the car ending up costing $6.67 per mile for transmission repair alone :( Does anybody have any advise? Thanks for listening. Mark 71 SS
Re: [Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad.
Well i hate to hear of your bad luck. But i do know that the guy who has his whole restoration documented at www.72chevelle.com had a complete feul delevery system (forgot name and type but it is on the web site) that he had installed for a while (once again i forgot the time frame but it is all on the site) and it was never used as he was doing a frame off and he managed to convince to company to refund all of his money. So it can be done if you do decide to deal with the original company i am sure you can work something out with them. Michael >From: "Mark Weber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad. >Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 16:47:14 -0500 > >I need some opinion from some other people about a problem I have with the >transmission in my 71 BBC SS I am restoring. > >The background: Bought rebuilt TH700r4 that was built to stand high >horsepower and torque during summer of 2001, installed into frame and it >sat >for about 1 year. Did not get the body on the frame until spring 2002, and >did not get the car on drivable (hood on, aligned, insured etc) until June >2002. With only 150 miles on the car, the torque converter blew up during >a >2 - 3 shift last Friday and pumped metal through the trans. During the >previous 150 miles, the shifts were pretty soft. It has shift kits and >many >other components that were supposed to give it a good firm shift. A trans >shop I talked to this week said a weak pump would cause low pressure and >mushy shifts. I suspect that was a problem too. > >The problem: The company I bought it from says that's too bad. The >warrantee was 6 months and they have to stick to this. They offered to >rebuild it and put parts in for cost and go easy on the labor charges if I >ship it to them, 2000 miles away. > >I am not an unreasonable person. I halfway understand where they are >coming >from with having to draw a line somewhere. Does anybody else have a >similar >experience with a problem that showed up later due to a long restoration >time period? Or, is this just bad luck and that's the way it is? > >I don't think I got anything in writing about starting the warrantee once >the car is drivable. I will check my email box at work tomorrow though, >maybe there is something there. > >I have not talked to the owner of the place yet. But the guy I did talk to >supposedly got his instructions from the owner. > >Guess I need to whine to somebody. Bummed because I can see the first 150 >miles I put on the car ending up costing $6.67 per mile for transmission >repair alone > > >Does anybody have any advise? > >Thanks for listening. > >Mark >71 SS > > > _ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 383 Badges for 67 Chevelle Malibu=thanks
Thanks dude. Now I know I am not crazy. Big Ken jason pollock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: on 7/22/02 6:01 PM, Ken's Email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A couple of months ago someone mentioned the existance of 383 stroker engine badging for chevelles. I recently placed a 383 stroker engine in my 67 Chevelle Malibu. I do not want to leave the 283 badging or place 396 badging. Does 383 badging exist ? Other ideas ? How about 350 badging with a + sign next to it ? Thanks, Ken McD Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better im looking at the original parts group catolog they list the 383 67 emblems at 29.951 800 243 8355jason pollock66 el camino Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
RE: [Chevelle-List] Glass Packs...
Count me in with Herb and Kelly. I put a Flowmaster 50 series kit on my car. It is made very well. The sound it, well, flowmaster. It is very loud. I could not accelerate over 1/3 throttle in town because the police station is only 1 1/2 miles from my house :) BTW, I have these Flowmaster mufflers for sale. They are still on the car so if you live close to MN and would like to hear them first you can. They have 150 miles on them. I bought them for $90 and will sell them for $50 or $60 bucks a piece for now. I still have the boxes and stickers and all that stuff too. I am going to have turbo mufflers put on. And yes, it depends a lot on the car. My 96 Impala SS with the LT1 350 has stock manifolds, a crossover tube, cats, Thrush glass packs, and rear resonator mufflers. It sounds only *slightly* louder than stock. It is very quiet. Mark 71 SS -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kelly C. HannaSent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 9:10 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Glass Packs... >I have to agree with Herb. To me, glass packs sound like an angry pack of>bumble bees. I want my car to have that deep mellow sound, and not be>obnoxious while driving through the neighborhood. I'm with you boys on that, but am beginning to despise the flowmaster sound as well. Every truck in Dallas has 'em (with the exact same big tipped chrome exhaust pipes and they all sound the same as the Mustangs and the Camaros. Thankfully the Chevelles in our club (and others) that have 'em sound a little better causer they have more motor in them. I like the quieter sound of the Walker turbo mufflers much better. I never have been much of a follower of trends and the Flows are the trendy thing here.Kelly & Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
RE: [Chevelle-List] Auto City Glass & Gas Tanks
Title: Message If you mean Auto City Classics out of Isanti MN, I have used them. They are a one hour drive from my work) I especially use them for things that are large, because is the quality is not up to my liking I don't want to pay return shipping. I go there and pick the stuff up if I like it. You have to know what you want, and you probably get what you pay for. I got goodmark metal inner fender wells from them. They were nice. I would imagine that a GM one might have been a little thicker, but these were not that bad. I also picked up my trunk floor from them. The pieces were stamped ok, but again the metal might be a little thinner than stock. Here the problem was these panels did not go up and over the axle tunnel so I had a seam to hide. This is not auto city classics fault really. Their price on the trunk floor was a low as anybody else's. While this does not sound like a ringing endorsement, it is not intended to sound negative either. I will use them again...because I can look at the parts first because that is the way I am. I suspect a lot of these parts come from the same manufacturer. Experience has taught me to be leery about any part I get from any of the parts houses. I have gotten stuff I did not like from all of them. If you call about a Chevelle, they will have you talk to Denny. He's a pretty good guy in my experience. They don't spend big bucks on web sites or fancy color catalogs like Year One. That might help keep the prices down. Mark 71 SS -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chevelle 69Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 11:36 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Auto City Glass & Gas Tanks I seen a company called Auto City at the second show in a row now. They had an impressive display of auto glass, gas tanks, and even disc brake conversion kits. While they don't seem to have a web site yet, they do e-mail. Their prices seemed to be outstanding, but wondering if anyone has any experience on their quality? Steve
[Chevelle-List] How Stuff Works
The below link is a perfect place for beginners and veterans alike to find out how just about anything works: http://www.howstuffworks.com/index.htm I refer to it quite often... cYa- Herb Lumpp1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9"ACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/
[Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad.
I need some opinion from some other people about a problem I have with the transmission in my 71 BBC SS I am restoring. The background: Bought rebuilt TH700r4 that was built to stand high horsepower and torque during summer of 2001, installed into frame and it sat for about 1 year. Did not get the body on the frame until spring 2002, and did not get the car on drivable (hood on, aligned, insured etc) until June 2002. With only 150 miles on the car, the torque converter blew up during a 2 - 3 shift last Friday and pumped metal through the trans. During the previous 150 miles, the shifts were pretty soft. It has shift kits and many other components that were supposed to give it a good firm shift. A trans shop I talked to this week said a weak pump would cause low pressure and mushy shifts. I suspect that was a problem too. The problem: The company I bought it from says that's too bad. The warrantee was 6 months and they have to stick to this. They offered to rebuild it and put parts in for cost and go easy on the labor charges if I ship it to them, 2000 miles away. I am not an unreasonable person. I halfway understand where they are coming from with having to draw a line somewhere. Does anybody else have a similar experience with a problem that showed up later due to a long restoration time period? Or, is this just bad luck and that's the way it is? I don't think I got anything in writing about starting the warrantee once the car is drivable. I will check my email box at work tomorrow though, maybe there is something there. I have not talked to the owner of the place yet. But the guy I did talk to supposedly got his instructions from the owner. Guess I need to whine to somebody. Bummed because I can see the first 150 miles I put on the car ending up costing $6.67 per mile for transmission repair alone :( Does anybody have any advise? Thanks for listening. Mark 71 SS
Re: [Chevelle-List] Looking for advice
Gary, For a street car running an auto trans, a vacuum secondary is a better match. If you have a manual trans, then a mechanical secondary (double pumper) will work fine. If your engine rebuild is going to be mild, you may want to look at the Performer or Performer RPM intake manifolds. Either one should give you enough under hood clearance with a drop base air filter. cYa- Herb Lumpp1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9"ACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: G Cook To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 7:25 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Looking for advice Shortly I'm going to have my 396 rebuilt, looking a carbs. Would a Holley double pumper 750 cfm be in order?? I'm looking at a edelbrock rpm high rise dual plane intake, Anyone have any past experience?? Will this work with cowl induction?? Thanks for all your help Gary
Re: [Chevelle-List] Back on the List- A/C experiences
Welcome back Darrell! It sounds like you picked up a nice little truck while you were away... cYa- Herb Lumpp 1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9" ACES 3509, MCC 528 http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: "Spencer, Darrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 11:35 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Back on the List- A/C experiences > BTW, it's good to be back. Hope lots of the old crowd are still around. > > > later . . . > > Darrell Spencer > Cave Creek, Arizona > '70 BB Malibu > '66 El Camino - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Back to the 9"
Yes, Currie. cYa- Herb Lumpp1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9"ACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: Capt Crunch To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2002 5:55 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Back to the 9" Which brand 9" did you go with again? Currie? Mikey
Re: [Chevelle-List] Back on the List- A/C experiences
- Original Message - From: "Dave Corgill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 12:06 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Back on the List- A/C experiences > I know how it is, 12 yrs ago I bought 4 50 lb drums of R12 for $2.00 a > lb, I thought that was high, cost me $400.00. But I thought ok I will > use it someday, but when it was outlawed in the USA I got rid of it all. > Then I put all the $$ in World Com stock ;) Ouch! cYa- Herb Lumpp 1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9" ACES 3509, MCC 528 http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Ignorant Older Guy
Jim Team Chevelle (www.chevelles.com) & Hemmings Motor News (www.hmn.com) are your best bets. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Ignorant Older Guy
Need it, got to get it! I have been reading the mail about (some people) abusing the system by spamming the group and being too lazy to do research. I want to categorically state that in my case I am a beginner [even at my age] and am very limited for time- that I am able to devote to any enterprise including computer research. Be that as it may, would someone tell me the most efficient procedure for obtaining the production statistics (run) for a particular model and also how to get a concessus of the retail value for same model. Mine is an 71' SS 454 that I have owned for 31 years. I have recently been doing some upgrades-headers, and some ignition improvements but have some bugs to work out. Thanks in advance, Jim - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Vacation reminder - mailbox full?
Hi Al, Please re-subscribe me to this email address, which is different from the old one I used to get mail from ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). Thanks for a great time in Nashville! Tom Original Message Follows From: "Al McKenzie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Chevelle-List] Vacation reminder - mailbox full? Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 10:21:55 -0700 Just a quick administration reminder. If you are heading off for vacation please either unsubscribe from the list or make sure you have adequate storage space. I've been getting hundreds of bounced mail from members whose email boxes are full - esp hotmail accounts. These bounces really clog up the system and the accounts have to be manually removed. If you suddenly find that you are no longer receiving the list messages, please check your mail storage before sending a nastygram to the admin. I only remove accounts that are causing problems with the list delivery. Enjoy the summer. Al - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
Chad, Arc welders come in a number of flavors. are a good all around steel welding tool. It takes alot of practice to become proficient. The Mig welder on the other hand, is versiatile and much more user freindly. They to come in a number of flavors 110V ac and 220V ac for the home user. with Flux core wire and shiled gas wire as the main electroids. The shileded ( bare solid wire) your welding machine must have the gas option or be purchased separately. For most hobbyist users. a 135amp 110 v ac machine will work. For frame and tube farcating a 200amp 220v machine is recomended. Go to your local wedling supply house and pick there brains on there different boxes. As for different gauge metal. The only thing I can think of regarding that, is you have to lean your weld bead harder on the thicker steel to get even penatration . Wayne - Original Message - From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 11:57 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? > I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was wondering, > which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are the > best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. Correct > me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the metal is > for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld is > supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is a...1970 > Body Panel? > > Bye Bye, > > Chad > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale.
And some of them have 1st and 2nd reversed. That way it is easer to grab second. Vernon - Original Message - From: "Chad Playso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > I'm not even going to ask... > > - Original Message - > From: "Emil Dusek" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 10:36 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > Most race powerglides are fitted with trans-brakes and these > > have manual valve bodies. The manual valve body requires > > you to manually shift into each gear. > > > > Watch the questions fly now. > > > > Emil Dusek:71Chevelle,SS-502,TH-400 w/manual valve body > > > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > so you dont let off when shifting? Now, what I dont get is, why not > just > > > leave it in drive at the start of the race? doesn't drive shift just > like > > > you manually shifting from first to second? Thanks for putting up with > > > me... :) > > > Thanks a > lot > > > pal, > > > > > > Chad > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 9:28 PM > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > > > > 2 *is* drive. There are only 2 forward speeds in a 2 speed > automatic. > > > > Or I could say its PRN1D. Same thing. > > > > > > > > Yup, floor it, hold it down, shift at 6400. :-) Let off at the 1/4 > mile > > > > marker. > > > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > > > > but whats weird is, theres no DRIVE...its only park, reverse, 1st > and > > > 2nd. > > > > > when you shift from 1st to second, do you have to let off the gas? > or > > > just > > > > > keep it there? > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:36 PM > > > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > > > > uh yea, Powerglide is a 2 speed automatic... No clutch > required. > > > > > > > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > It does sound complicated, lol. but thanks, you explained it > really > > > > > well. > > > > > > > now, of course, it has a clutch, right? or does'nt it? > > > > > > > Have > > > fun, > > > > > > > > > > Chad > > > > > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > > > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 8:00 AM > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for > sale. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > oops, sorry about that. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 2 speed Powerglide. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > All the way forward is Park, all the way back is 1st. (PRN21). > > > The > > > > > > > 'trigger' > > > > > > > > is a release. In order to get out of Park, you have to > squeeze > > > the > > > > > > > trigger > > > > > > > > (from Park to Reverse) and pull back on the shifter bar. Once > in > > > > > reverse, > > > > > > > you > > > > > > > > can pull the shifter all the way back to 1st. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To shift from 1 - 2, shove the shifter forward. It won't go > into > > > N. > > > > > > > There is > > > > > > > > an internal stop > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into N, pull the trigger, push forward into N. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into R, you have to push another lever forward, then > into > > > R. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into P, again pull the trigger, push into P. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sounds complicated maybe, but it actually all works quite > smoothly > > > > > with > > > > > > > some > > > > > > > > practice. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > lol, what I meant in the first question - is how does it > work? > > > I > > > > > don't > > > > > > > > > mean, does it work good, I mean - how does it function? I > know > > > how > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > regular 4 or 5 speed works, is this like that? what is that > > > thing > > > > > in > > > > > > > front > > > > > > > > > that looks like you pull it like a staple gun? Is it a 2 > speed > > > > > > > > > powerglide...etc? > > > > > > > > > Thanks for your > other > > > Info! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chad > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > > > > > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 10:37 PM > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for > > > sale. >
[Chevelle-List] Vacation reminder - mailbox full?
Just a quick administration reminder. If you are heading off for vacation please either unsubscribe from the list or make sure you have adequate storage space. I've been getting hundreds of bounced mail from members whose email boxes are full - esp hotmail accounts. These bounces really clog up the system and the accounts have to be manually removed. If you suddenly find that you are no longer receiving the list messages, please check your mail storage before sending a nastygram to the admin. I only remove accounts that are causing problems with the list delivery. Enjoy the summer. Al - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Cruise in
Hello If you happen to be a cruisin near Deer Creek Illinois on September 22nd, drop by the Park here in Deer Creek. We are having a park on the grass cruise in and personally, as a Chevelle owner, I'd really enjoy seeing your ride. I live directly across from the Park and don't have any connection to the Community Club that is organizing this. There are no fees involved, just friendly family fun. Thomas W. Rogers - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) welder is an arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, gas metal arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common "stick" SMAW(shielded metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another popular form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, gas tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc welding. Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of welding,(arc, gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) I just thought I should point out that the most common types that people use(not including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc to weld. (Sorry, you said, "correct me if I am wrong" -- The whole arc welding thing is one of my pet peeves) Aaron Weaver 67 SS 396 >= Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = >I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was wondering, >which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are the >best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. Correct >me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the metal is >for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld is >supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is a...1970 >Body Panel? > >Bye Bye, > >Chad > >- >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was wondering, which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are the best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. Correct me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the metal is for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld is supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is a...1970 Body Panel? Bye Bye, Chad - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Back on the List- A/C experiences
Long time no hear Darrell, sure glad to see you again. AC is a must for living in your neck of the woods. or whats left of them after the fires ! Instead of trying to retro fit a vintage are sys. in my 65 El Camino I copped out and got a 86 Elcamino as a daily driver !!! Still manage to put 1600mi on the 65 this year so far, not sure if I'll top the 2800mi from last year. again good to hear all is well in Sun City. Wayne ACES 1556 TCG 186 - Original Message - From: "Spencer, Darrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 2:35 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Back on the List- A/C experiences > Hi Folks, > > After a bit of a haitus, I've re-upped to the list. Not much has changed. > > > I still have my big block '70 SS lookalike, still as sweet as ever, but in > summer hibernation since a car with no A/C in metro Phoenix during summer is > not much fun. > > I still drive my '66 El Camino every day. I'm still way pleased with the 3 > year old Goodwrench 350, but am ready to find a pair of Vortec heads and > install a cam once the mean season is past (i.e. when it cools down). A/C > works well in this truck, but I made one mistake with that A/C system. I > converted to R134A and kept the stock POA/Expansion valve setup. This was > a mistake. In any climate other that Phoenix, I'd probably be OK, but once > the temperature goes over 100, the system really struggles to keep up. Much > better than nothing, but not at all like an R12 system. > > Given my experiences with the Elky A/C, I made the right decision with the > latest entry to the stable. Picked up a '75 GMC C15 pickup recently > (pampered, original owner, paint and 454/TH400!). A/C was non-functional. > Had the compressor, orifice tube, drier and a hose replaced - thought about > going to R134A - and thought better of it. Now, this refurbed R12 system > will freeze your arse out even in the heat of the day. Expensive, but well > worth the extra dough. YMMV. > > BTW, it's good to be back. Hope lots of the old crowd are still around. > > > later . . . > > Darrell Spencer > Cave Creek, Arizona > '70 BB Malibu > '66 El Camino > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale.
I'm not even going to ask... - Original Message - From: "Emil Dusek" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 10:36 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > Most race powerglides are fitted with trans-brakes and these > have manual valve bodies. The manual valve body requires > you to manually shift into each gear. > > Watch the questions fly now. > > Emil Dusek:71Chevelle,SS-502,TH-400 w/manual valve body > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > so you dont let off when shifting? Now, what I dont get is, why not just > > leave it in drive at the start of the race? doesn't drive shift just like > > you manually shifting from first to second? Thanks for putting up with > > me... :) > > Thanks a lot > > pal, > > > > Chad > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 9:28 PM > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > 2 *is* drive. There are only 2 forward speeds in a 2 speed automatic. > > > Or I could say its PRN1D. Same thing. > > > > > > Yup, floor it, hold it down, shift at 6400. :-) Let off at the 1/4 mile > > > marker. > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > > but whats weird is, theres no DRIVE...its only park, reverse, 1st and > > 2nd. > > > > when you shift from 1st to second, do you have to let off the gas? or > > just > > > > keep it there? > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:36 PM > > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > > uh yea, Powerglide is a 2 speed automatic... No clutch required. > > > > > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > It does sound complicated, lol. but thanks, you explained it really > > > > well. > > > > > > now, of course, it has a clutch, right? or does'nt it? > > > > > > Have > > fun, > > > > > > > > Chad > > > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 8:00 AM > > > > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > > > > > > oops, sorry about that. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 2 speed Powerglide. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > All the way forward is Park, all the way back is 1st. (PRN21). > > The > > > > > > 'trigger' > > > > > > > is a release. In order to get out of Park, you have to squeeze > > the > > > > > > trigger > > > > > > > (from Park to Reverse) and pull back on the shifter bar. Once in > > > > reverse, > > > > > > you > > > > > > > can pull the shifter all the way back to 1st. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To shift from 1 - 2, shove the shifter forward. It won't go into > > N. > > > > > > There is > > > > > > > an internal stop > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into N, pull the trigger, push forward into N. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into R, you have to push another lever forward, then into > > R. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into P, again pull the trigger, push into P. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sounds complicated maybe, but it actually all works quite smoothly > > > > with > > > > > > some > > > > > > > practice. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > lol, what I meant in the first question - is how does it work? > > I > > > > don't > > > > > > > > mean, does it work good, I mean - how does it function? I know > > how > > > > a > > > > > > > > regular 4 or 5 speed works, is this like that? what is that > > thing > > > > in > > > > > > front > > > > > > > > that looks like you pull it like a staple gun? Is it a 2 speed > > > > > > > > powerglide...etc? > > > > > > > > Thanks for your other > > Info! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chad > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > > > > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 10:37 PM > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for > > sale. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 1) B&M Pro Stick Shifter. Works great. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 2) > > > > > > > > > Pro-street is typically a street-able car that has at least > > been > > > > > > tubbed > > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > backhalved, and are usually very fast. See some examples at > > > > > > > > > http://www.ProStreetCar.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Pro-stock are pretty much drag cars that are no where close to > > > > > > 'stock'. > > > > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale.
Most race powerglides are fitted with trans-brakes and these have manual valve bodies. The manual valve body requires you to manually shift into each gear. Watch the questions fly now. Emil Dusek:71Chevelle,SS-502,TH-400 w/manual valve body Chad Playso wrote: > > so you dont let off when shifting? Now, what I dont get is, why not just > leave it in drive at the start of the race? doesn't drive shift just like > you manually shifting from first to second? Thanks for putting up with > me... :) > Thanks a lot > pal, > > Chad > > - Original Message - > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 9:28 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > 2 *is* drive. There are only 2 forward speeds in a 2 speed automatic. > > Or I could say its PRN1D. Same thing. > > > > Yup, floor it, hold it down, shift at 6400. :-) Let off at the 1/4 mile > > marker. > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > but whats weird is, theres no DRIVE...its only park, reverse, 1st and > 2nd. > > > when you shift from 1st to second, do you have to let off the gas? or > just > > > keep it there? > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:36 PM > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > uh yea, Powerglide is a 2 speed automatic... No clutch required. > > > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > > > > It does sound complicated, lol. but thanks, you explained it really > > > well. > > > > > now, of course, it has a clutch, right? or does'nt it? > > > > > Have > fun, > > > > > > Chad > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 8:00 AM > > > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. > > > > > > > > > > > oops, sorry about that. > > > > > > > > > > > > 2 speed Powerglide. > > > > > > > > > > > > All the way forward is Park, all the way back is 1st. (PRN21). > The > > > > > 'trigger' > > > > > > is a release. In order to get out of Park, you have to squeeze > the > > > > > trigger > > > > > > (from Park to Reverse) and pull back on the shifter bar. Once in > > > reverse, > > > > > you > > > > > > can pull the shifter all the way back to 1st. > > > > > > > > > > > > To shift from 1 - 2, shove the shifter forward. It won't go into > N. > > > > > There is > > > > > > an internal stop > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into N, pull the trigger, push forward into N. > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into R, you have to push another lever forward, then into > R. > > > > > > > > > > > > To get into P, again pull the trigger, push into P. > > > > > > > > > > > > Sounds complicated maybe, but it actually all works quite smoothly > > > with > > > > > some > > > > > > practice. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chad Playso wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > lol, what I meant in the first question - is how does it work? > I > > > don't > > > > > > > mean, does it work good, I mean - how does it function? I know > how > > > a > > > > > > > regular 4 or 5 speed works, is this like that? what is that > thing > > > in > > > > > front > > > > > > > that looks like you pull it like a staple gun? Is it a 2 speed > > > > > > > powerglide...etc? > > > > > > > Thanks for your other > Info! > > > > > > > > > > > > Chad > > > > > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > > > > > From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 10:37 PM > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for > sale. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 1) B&M Pro Stick Shifter. Works great. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 2) > > > > > > > > Pro-street is typically a street-able car that has at least > been > > > > > tubbed > > > > > > > and > > > > > > > > backhalved, and are usually very fast. See some examples at > > > > > > > > http://www.ProStreetCar.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Pro-stock are pretty much drag cars that are no where close to > > > > > 'stock'. > > > > > > > See > > > > > > > > http://www.nhra.com/2002/events/race13/photos/photo02.html > for an > > > > > > > example. > > > > > > > > The bodies are supposed to be pretty close to 'stock', but > that's > > > > > about > > > > > > > it. > > > > > > > > They run the qtr mile in the 7 second range. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Funny car, see here > > > > > > > > http://www.nhra.com/2002/events/race13/photos/photo09.html > 5 > > > second > > > > > qtr > > > > > > > > mile dragsters running on Nitromet
Re: [Chevelle-List] State inspection? Correction
The supercharger I can understand. The steering wheel I say is BS. Larry (z)
RE: [Chevelle-List] State inspection? Correction
Kelly, I have a supercharger and this makes it difficult and you have to have original steering wheel also. The inspector showed me it to me in the book. Thanks Skip 68SCBB -Original Message-From: Kelly C. Hanna [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 7:56 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] State inspection? Correction Sorry, it should have read this way >There's no sniffer test for cars over 24 years old here in Texas. The current emissions test is>not applicable for cars that were made prior to 1979. When Jan 1st hits it'll be 1978. All they do is a safety>inspection ($12.50)...You remember the old turn signal, horn and lights teststhat's them. I would retain the>original air cleaner for a possible visual inspection, but other than that you're clear.>>Kelly & Jana Hanna>www.hannawoodworks.comKelly & Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Oil pressure
I agree with André << Great info Mikey >> on the oil pumps. I have also read that hi volume oil pump is ok on the street but don't use a hi pressure pump on the street. It takes more hp to turn it and it can destroy your distributor bearings over time. just my opinion - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] No magazines required...
no comment :)
Re: [Chevelle-List] No magazines required...
i will then. i spend tons of time online. not all of it is asking or trying to answer questions on the list. having been a car nut for over 40 years i know you have to ask questions. for a young person who has just joined us i do believe Chad felt we could help him. as an old person i think Chad needs to know about all the other wonderful sites out there that have the answers too. I search and search everyday for new sites ."if a day goes by and I didn't learn something new, I didn't do anything that day." Larry (z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] Back on the List- A/C experiences
Welcome back Darrell. Larry (z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] '65 L-79 Chevelle
Phil: you may have owned one with posi but it was not part of the L-79 package. The positraction rear end was an option of its own and was not mandatory to order a l-79. Larry (z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] Oil pressure
Great info Mikey ! I run a bbc oil pump in the 355 of my Van, I also use a scraper, vindage tray and a homebuilt smuggler pan (a friend saw it, thought it was huge and asked if i was going to start smuggeling oil). I havent been able to test it out yet as the car is still without doors, I have used a bbc pump in a sbc before thus, with good results. André > The oiling system of the sbc is very superior compared to many others. I have never heard or seen a sbc with an oil return problem, the larges t oiling hindrance is actually the crank. Also the lifters will not let that much oil get to the top end (as they have metering valves) so to ha ve an oil return problem. Unfortunetly the oil pan just being in the bac k of the motor is not all that is needed to keep the pickup wet... > > I have seen many sbc drag cars act exactly as you are saying because o f their oil pan design, pickup setup and position, etc. The number one e rror I see is people select a HV or a HV/HP pump and don't upgrade their pickup. This is extremely common and CAN SOMETIMES pose a problem. A HV pump will be fine in a stock system, but a HV/HP (High vloume/high pres sure) will cause lots of problems. HV/HP pumps are designed for modified , increased capacity oiling systems. Some companies sell you a HV/HP pum p and tell you to change the spring out for a HV only. Usually the direc tions/sheet is semi unclear so sometimes people don't because they think that will change it back to a stock pump. Oil pan selection is also cru cial as you want one that is baffled to help keep the oil from sloshing away from the pickup in the pan. Aftermarket baffles and scrappers are u sed to keep oil from gathering around the crankshaft and helps scrape/bl ock the oil so it returns to the pickup area. Oil can collect in the top part of the pan on shifts or deceleration and becomes too close to the rotating assembly of the crank and gets sucked in from the front/top par t of the pan, thus the windage tray works excellent in this situation. T he pickup also needs to be position approx. a 1/2" or so from the bottom of the pan, some guys with larger oiling systems vary this clearance th ough. The pickup should be welded in this position to prevent it shaking loose or moving down with high rpm use. When you weld, it is highly rec ommended that you disassemble the oil pump. > > What type gauge do you have in your car? Most cheapie gauges, stock ga uges, and especially stock idiot lights are very unreliable, thus when y ou are looking at oil pressure problems as a technician, we have a rathe r expensive gauge that we connect to a number of different locations on the motor. Where is you sensor located. Oil pressure will vary slightly throughout the engine. Generally in my experience oiling problems first show in the crank bearings and rod bearings farthest from the oil pump. > > Overall... to make things simple, if you wanna drag race... you need t o run a better oiling setup. The forces of the car need more oil to keep the pickup with a supply of oil. But this is not cause the oil pump pum ps the pan dry. Find the Melling and Moroso oil pump pages on the web. T hey both have some good information on pumps and oiling in general. I hi ghly recommend the 7qt Moroso setups with a windage tray for any sbc and some of the basic machining mods for the internal engine parts. There a re also an increasing number of guys running BBC's oil pumps in there sm all blocks now. If you run you car hard on road race course or the strip , a windage tray is very cheap insurance no matter if you keep a stock s tyle system or a modified system. It comes back to what seems to be a ve ry true statement in life..."Ya gotta Pay to Play". > > Mikey > > - Original Message - > From: vmckague > Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 8:33 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Oil pressure > > Mikey, All I know is I have seen this happen in my own car. At the end of the track at WOT my oil presure light would filcker, not a idiot lig ht but a true oil pressure light set at 15 lbs. this was with a 454 with out oil restrictors. I asked other drivers about it and was told to get a larger pan as I was pumping it dry. Did get a larger pan and it solved the problem. If the oil pickup is in the right place in a bbc I don't s ee how it could become uncovered under hard acceleration as it would pla ce more oil to the back of the pan. One other thing I thought people use d scrapers to gain HP. Like I said just my 2 cents worth. Vernon > - Original Message - > From: Capt Crunch > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 12:15 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Oil pressure > > > That is completely untrue! That is not possible if you have a healthy motor and haven't made any mods to your oiling system like restrictors. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of t he oil to the top of the engine. If
Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle in france or in europe
Bonjour Monseúr, I think I'm the only one, as somebody said Norwegian (Viking)and I live in Bologna Italy. As for the viking thing thats not quite thru as I'm just 6'4" @ lbs 200 André > Hello > > I 'm in France near Paris and I have a chevelle SS 1968. > I want to know, if there are french chevelle's owners in this list ? (or in europe) > > Thank > > Florent > > > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
