Re:[Chevelle-List] is it the coil?
I dont think a coil can go bad, I think its either working or not working. I had the same issue with my hei and changed the module, it worked fine until it got hot and then it started missfiring, I later upgraded to an MSd module, coil and bushing and its stronger than the original ever was. If you go for the msd module remember to upgrade to a heavier gauge wire or it will burn. André Can anyone provide me with some symptoms if the HEI coil is going bad? Tonite, to solve my prob of my car running crappy, I figured I'd start with the obvious and change my plugs. Yesterday I put new wires on it, and after changing the plugs, the car will barely stay running at the current idle settings. A week ago it was totally fine- For anyone not familiar with my engine, it's a freshly rebuilt 327 with a brand spanking new Edelbrock Performer 1406 carb. It was running great, I took it out for a 10 mile spin last Thurs nite, and as of Sunday I am having all of the issues described above. I have checked all vacuum lines, and they are all connected just as they were last week when it was running fine. I have also looked at the distributor to make sure it didn't move, and it has not. Could this be that my hand-me-down HEI is dying? Would a dying coil cause the issues I'm having? Thanks, Jim '66 Malibu __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] 65 wagon for sale $3500
That wagon was on ebay about a month ago. Larry (Z)
RE: [Chevelle-List] is it the coil?
I thought I had a coil going bad once but it turned out to be a failing wire. The wire that led to the ballast resistor had corroded almost through. As long as there was a connection, the car ran perfect. When it would break connection it would behave as though I had water in the gas. Craig E. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of tigergutt Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:58 AM To: chevelle-list Subject: Re:[Chevelle-List] is it the coil? I dont think a coil can go bad, I think its either working or not working. I had the same issue with my hei and changed the module, it worked fine until it got hot and then it started missfiring, I later upgraded to an MSd module, coil and bushing and its stronger than the original ever was. If you go for the msd module remember to upgrade to a heavier gauge wire or it will burn. André Can anyone provide me with some symptoms if the HEI coil is going bad? Tonite, to solve my prob of my car running crappy, I figured I'd start with the obvious and change my plugs. Yesterday I put new wires on it, and after changing the plugs, the car will barely stay running at the current idle settings. A week ago it was totally fine- For anyone not familiar with my engine, it's a freshly rebuilt 327 with a brand spanking new Edelbrock Performer 1406 carb. It was running great, I took it out for a 10 mile spin last Thurs nite, and as of Sunday I am having all of the issues described above. I have checked all vacuum lines, and they are all connected just as they were last week when it was running fine. I have also looked at the distributor to make sure it didn't move, and it has not. Could this be that my hand-me-down HEI is dying? Would a dying coil cause the issues I'm having? Thanks, Jim '66 Malibu __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] BBC Spark Plugs
I've used the NGK YR5. I've used NGK for years and have been happy. The set I'm about to put in is the Champion Rapid Fire (Super), just stock replacement plugs for a '73 454. What you need will depend on your application (i.e. heat range) "L. Williams" wrote: What kind and part number do you use. -- Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377
Re: [Chevelle-List] BBC Spark Plugs
In a message dated 6/9/2003 11:20:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What kind and part number do you use. I use Autolite 65's in my 396. John,67SS396 http://www.geocities.com/grepr - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] is it the coil?
I don't know if an HEI can go bad but I know a point type coil can degrade. I agree that it usually turns out to be the module. I replaced one once and forgot to put the special grease on the bottom and wiped that one out in no time. Rich ACES # 05066 - Original Message - From: tigergutt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:57 AM Subject: Re:[Chevelle-List] is it the coil? : I dont think a coil can go bad, I think its either working or not working. : : I had the same issue with my hei and changed the module, it worked fine until it got hot and then it started missfiring, I later upgraded to an MSd module, coil and bushing and its stronger than the original ever was. : If you go for the msd module remember to upgrade to a heavier gauge wire or it will burn. : : André : : : : Can anyone provide me with some symptoms if the HEI : coil is going bad? : : Tonite, to solve my prob of my car running crappy, I : figured I'd start with the obvious and change my : plugs. Yesterday I put new wires on it, and after : changing the plugs, the car will barely stay running : at the current idle settings. A week ago it was : totally fine- For anyone not familiar with my engine, : it's a freshly rebuilt 327 with a brand spanking new : Edelbrock Performer 1406 carb. It was running great, : I took it out for a 10 mile spin last Thurs nite, and : as of Sunday I am having all of the issues described : above. : : I have checked all vacuum lines, and they are all : connected just as they were last week when it was : running fine. I have also looked at the distributor : to make sure it didn't move, and it has not. : : Could this be that my hand-me-down HEI is dying? : Would a dying coil cause the issues I'm having? : : Thanks, : : Jim : '66 Malibu : : : __ : Do you Yahoo!? : Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). : http://calendar.yahoo.com : : - : To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html : To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] : : : : - : To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html : To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] HELP! Timing or what?
Hey all- I'm very curious with this topic, as I'm beginning to wonder if I have mine 180 out as well or not- When I put my motor together, I had everything out (crank, cam, pistons, everything), and when I reassembled, I put the timing marks together as I thought you are supposed to. When the marks were together, the notch/stub on the cam was at around 2:00, and the key in the crank was where the timing mark would be once the balancer went back on. I'm not sure where the #1 piston was at that point, but I would think it was at the top of the cylinder (can't remember)- I know from previous info that the #1 piston should be at the top of the cylinder when the timing mark is at the 0 on the timing tab, or something is wrong. If the key on the crank was in the right position, and the cam notch was at 2:00, and when putting the distributor in, the vacuum advance was at approx 2:00, is there any chance I could have put mine back together wrong? Just trying to understand how one could set the timing 180 out? Thanks, Jim '66 Malibu --- Dale McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I did that once, a long time ago :*) Got home from work one day and decided to do a quick cam change. Along about 3 or 4 in the morning I discovered I'd missed the timing marks (#6 instead of #1). I just flipped the distributor 180 degrees and timed it off #6 plug wire. Worked like a champ! Come to think of it, I don't think I ever put it back right. If you find anyone driving around in a Mountain Green 69 300 Deluxe Ss396 that's cussed about it, have 'em contact me. I'd love to have that car back again! http://www.dalesplace.com/images/gallery/69/69ss.jpg Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709 67SS/67 Elky http://www.dalesplace.com/ Dale's Place - My 67 SS and 67 El Camino http://www.chevellestuff.com/ ChevelleStuff - Decoding info on 64-72 Chevelles http://www.team67.com/ Team 67 - 1967 Chevelle/El Camino Specific http://www.midwestchevelles.com/ Midwest Chevelles - Midwest Chevelle Show Information -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leo Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 8:30 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] HELP! Timing or what? When both marks are pointing at each other, that is #6 at TDC. When both marks are pointing straight up, that is #1 at TDC. It sounds as you set the timing up with both marks pointing at each other and set the distributor to #1 Cyl. That would be 180 degrees out of timing. With everything back together, remove #1 Spark plug and turn the engine over until you feel pressure and then watch the timing mark on the balancer and stop when the mark on the balancer and the timing tab are set to 0 degrees. Rest the distributor to #1 cyl, lock it down, start eng and then set timing with timing light. You should be ok. Leo - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 2:15 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] HELP! Timing or what? Hey Listers, I have another problem. OK, I recently replaced my timing chain and the big/top sprocket. It was the actual sprocket that was messed up. The teeth were all eaten away. Now I try to start my Chevelle and it will start, but it coughs something fierce with gas spurting on the carb at every cough. I align the two gear notches as required and put the front cover back on. Today I loosen the distributor and had a friend start it as I turn the distributor. I sounds a LITTLE better but still coughs and spits gas from the carb. What else should I do? I changed plugs today -- no real difference -- any suggestions? C. Campbell - Detroit, MI. '70 Chevelle Malibu 4 dr., 307, original Detroit Chevelle http://dcc.homestead.com Club email -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness
I have a Holley 4150 List # 3310 on my 396. Even when warm and manual choke completely pushed in - it idles rich. Any idle speed less than 1000 RPM and it will eventually bog out and die. I've searched through Holley's website trying to find tuning rich / lien adjustments with out any real success. The primary meter block has an idle adjustment screw on each side - I am wondering how these are to be set or any other ideas behind getting this to run less rich. Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s matching - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness
Krister, The screws you see on the metering block are what you want to adjust. For best results, get a vacuum gauge and hook it up to a vacuum port that has manifold vacuum (below the throttle blades, not above). There should be one in front, angled towards the passenger side. In park/neutral, set your idle speed. Since you say it is running rich, try turning the idle mixtures screws on the metering block 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise. These screws control fuel flow. Closing them down (clockwise) flows less fuel and should lean out your mixture. Remember to try to adjust both sides of the carb somewhat evenly, probably in 1/4 or 1/2 turn increments. If your mixture is off, then you should hear the engine pick up a few RPM as the mixture gets closer. This is where the vacuum gauge comes in. To really set it right, adjust the idle mixture screws to achieve the highest vacuum reading you can. Now, if the engine speed has picked up, reset your idle speed and try adjust the idle mixture again, looking for max vacuum. It should only take a couple tries to zero-in on something that will let your engine idle. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, just use your ear and listen to RPM. Tune for highest RPM. (if you lean it out too much, RPM will drop again) If you're having trouble, reset the carb to a known baseline - close the idle mixture screws all the way, then open each side 1.5 turns and start again. Since you state your car wont idle now, it might be good to start here and then try tuning it. If you're still having trouble after doing all that, you could have a blown/leaking power valve. That will require removing the float bowl and metering block to verify. Hope this helps.. if you have more questions, I'll answer them as best I can.. I've done my share of tuning/re-building Holley carbs and am fairly familiar with them. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Krister Meister Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:40 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness I have a Holley 4150 List # 3310 on my 396. Even when warm and manual choke completely pushed in - it idles rich. Any idle speed less than 1000 RPM and it will eventually bog out and die. I've searched through Holley's website trying to find tuning rich / lien adjustments with out any real success. The primary meter block has an idle adjustment screw on each side - I am wondering how these are to be set or any other ideas behind getting this to run less rich. Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s matching - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
Well, I can't be entirely sure about a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the passenger side, nothing is required. The starter can still be attached. Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles getting it in there. Sarge -Original Message- From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 PM To: Chevelle Subject: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, since I got so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them on. I need help on this one - anybody know how it's done??? Craig E. attachment: image001.gif
Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 El Camino emblem locations??
I need exact loations for my 67 Elky quarter emblems too - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: June 6, 2003 10:37 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] 66 El Camino emblem locations?? Member Elky Question?? Are templates available to show the correct location of quarter panel and fender emblems for a '66 el Camino ? Or does anyone have a pic with dimensions??ThanksDonnie
RE: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness
Dave, Thank you very much for the detail and step by step! I actually have the ' #s correct List 3419 to be rebuilt as a winter project. The 3310 is what's making the Chevelle work for now. Krister Dave Studly [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: cc: (bcc: Krister Meister/PBU/Nsk-Corp) [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fax to: velles.netSubject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness 06/10/2003 10:29 AM Please respond to chevelle-list Krister, The screws you see on the metering block are what you want to adjust. For best results, get a vacuum gauge and hook it up to a vacuum port that has manifold vacuum (below the throttle blades, not above). There should be one in front, angled towards the passenger side. In park/neutral, set your idle speed. Since you say it is running rich, try turning the idle mixtures screws on the metering block 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise. These screws control fuel flow. Closing them down (clockwise) flows less fuel and should lean out your mixture. Remember to try to adjust both sides of the carb somewhat evenly, probably in 1/4 or 1/2 turn increments. If your mixture is off, then you should hear the engine pick up a few RPM as the mixture gets closer. This is where the vacuum gauge comes in. To really set it right, adjust the idle mixture screws to achieve the highest vacuum reading you can. Now, if the engine speed has picked up, reset your idle speed and try adjust the idle mixture again, looking for max vacuum. It should only take a couple tries to zero-in on something that will let your engine idle. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, just use your ear and listen to RPM. Tune for highest RPM. (if you lean it out too much, RPM will drop again) If you're having trouble, reset the carb to a known baseline - close the idle mixture screws all the way, then open each side 1.5 turns and start again. Since you state your car wont idle now, it might be good to start here and then try tuning it. If you're still having trouble after doing all that, you could have a blown/leaking power valve. That will require removing the float bowl and metering block to verify. Hope this helps.. if you have more questions, I'll answer them as best I can.. I've done my share of tuning/re-building Holley carbs and am fairly familiar with them. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Krister Meister Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:40 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness I have a Holley 4150 List # 3310 on my 396. Even when warm and manual choke completely pushed in - it idles rich. Any idle speed less than 1000 RPM and it will eventually bog out and die. I've searched through Holley's website trying to find tuning rich / lien adjustments with out any real success. The primary meter block has an idle adjustment screw on each side - I am wondering how these are to be set or any other ideas behind getting this to run less rich. Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s matching - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness
Let me know how it works out for ya.. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Krister Meister Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 6:04 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness Dave, Thank you very much for the detail and step by step! I actually have the ' #s correct List 3419 to be rebuilt as a winter project. The 3310 is what's making the Chevelle work for now. Krister Dave Studly [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: cc: (bcc: Krister Meister/PBU/Nsk-Corp) [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fax to: velles.netSubject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness 06/10/2003 10:29 AM Please respond to chevelle-list Krister, The screws you see on the metering block are what you want to adjust. For best results, get a vacuum gauge and hook it up to a vacuum port that has manifold vacuum (below the throttle blades, not above). There should be one in front, angled towards the passenger side. In park/neutral, set your idle speed. Since you say it is running rich, try turning the idle mixtures screws on the metering block 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise. These screws control fuel flow. Closing them down (clockwise) flows less fuel and should lean out your mixture. Remember to try to adjust both sides of the carb somewhat evenly, probably in 1/4 or 1/2 turn increments. If your mixture is off, then you should hear the engine pick up a few RPM as the mixture gets closer. This is where the vacuum gauge comes in. To really set it right, adjust the idle mixture screws to achieve the highest vacuum reading you can. Now, if the engine speed has picked up, reset your idle speed and try adjust the idle mixture again, looking for max vacuum. It should only take a couple tries to zero-in on something that will let your engine idle. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, just use your ear and listen to RPM. Tune for highest RPM. (if you lean it out too much, RPM will drop again) If you're having trouble, reset the carb to a known baseline - close the idle mixture screws all the way, then open each side 1.5 turns and start again. Since you state your car wont idle now, it might be good to start here and then try tuning it. If you're still having trouble after doing all that, you could have a blown/leaking power valve. That will require removing the float bowl and metering block to verify. Hope this helps.. if you have more questions, I'll answer them as best I can.. I've done my share of tuning/re-building Holley carbs and am fairly familiar with them. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Krister Meister Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:40 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Adjusting Holley 4150 richness I have a Holley 4150 List # 3310 on my 396. Even when warm and manual choke completely pushed in - it idles rich. Any idle speed less than 1000 RPM and it will eventually bog out and die. I've searched through Holley's website trying to find tuning rich / lien adjustments with out any real success. The primary meter block has an idle adjustment screw on each side - I am wondering how these are to be set or any other ideas behind getting this to run less rich. Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s matching - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] BBC Spark Plugs
well I'll tell you Michael, I tried about every
plug known to man,My 70 ss b.b. when coming out of the garage in the spring
would run ok except when I got into the throttle,then it would pop,crack,spit
something awful,I tried new plugs very spring, that would cure it,,however each
spring I had the same problem,change plugs,it would be okI finally tried
Motorcraft {shhh.!} plugs,,,never had that problem again,,those plugs have
lasted 4.yrs..,,go figure
- Original Message -
From:
Michael
Pell
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 7:17
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] BBC Spark
Plugs
I've used the NGK YR5. I've used NGK for years and
have been happy. The set I'm about to put in is the Champion Rapid Fire
(Super), just stock replacement plugs for a '73 454.
What you need will depend on your application (i.e. heat range)
"L. Williams" wrote:
What kind and part number do you
use.
-- Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html
TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377
[Chevelle-List] 69 concours wagon for sale
Hello, I have a friend who has a 1969 Concourse 4 door wagon for sale in western colorado. INFO: 350 ci engine (runs) 3 speed auto 12 bolt posi power drum brakes car is mostly complete with trim, interior, etc. car is in need of total restoration, he hates to part it out if someone can use it. Call Gordon Rentie (970)464-5068 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN
Any of you Tennessee listers know how far away Clinton or Oak Ridge is from Nashville? Clint Hooper LT5 Registry Director http://www.LT5Registry.net/ ACES #1650 http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN
Well, I'm in Arizona, but MapPoint says Nashville, TN is 161.4 miles away from Oak Ridge, TN. Nashville, TN is 195.1 miles from Clinton, TN. Rodney. 71 Chevelle El Mirage, AZ - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 6:19 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN Any of you Tennessee listers know how far away Clinton or Oak Ridge is from Nashville? Clint Hooper LT5 Registry Director http://www.LT5Registry.net/ ACES #1650 http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN
Thanks,guys. A shop there said they would buy some big prostreet tires from me,,if I stopped by. But,sounds like Clinton is too fararoundtrip drive to mess with while at Goodlettsville. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ClintClinton, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 186.61 milesTotal Estimated Time: 3 hours, 21 minutesOak Ridge, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 162.93 milesTotal Estimated Time: 2 hours, 48 minutesI just used mapquest (www.mapquest.com)DonnieIn a message dated 6/10/03 6:20:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Clinton
RE: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN
E-Bay -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 9:53 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN Thanks,guys. A shop there said they would buy some big prostreet tires from me,,if I stopped by. But,sounds like Clinton is too fararoundtrip drive to mess with while at Goodlettsville. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ClintClinton, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 186.61 milesTotal Estimated Time: 3 hours, 21 minutesOak Ridge, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 162.93 milesTotal Estimated Time: 2 hours, 48 minutesI just used mapquest (www.mapquest.com)DonnieIn a message dated 6/10/03 6:20:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Clinton
Re: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN
Yeah,that will probably be my next option,Rich. Guess I need to learn how to sell stuff on there. Have always bought stuff,,never sold anything. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Richard M. Pruett E-Bay -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Thanks,guys. A shop there said they would buy some big prostreet tires from me,,if I stopped by. But,sounds like Clinton is too fararoundtrip drive to mess with while at Goodlettsville. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ClintClinton, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 186.61 milesTotal Estimated Time: 3 hours, 21 minutesOak Ridge, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 162.93 milesTotal Estimated Time: 2 hours, 48 minutesI just used mapquest (www.mapquest.com)DonnieIn a message dated 6/10/03 6:20:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Clinton
RE: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN
Neither have I Clint. But, I swear, some of the stuff I've seen sold and the write ups that go along with them, I don't think you need more than a fourth grade education to figure it out!! Rich -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:42 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN Yeah,that will probably be my next option,Rich. Guess I need to learn how to sell stuff on there. Have always bought stuff,,never sold anything. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Richard M. Pruett E-Bay -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Thanks,guys. A shop there said they would buy some big prostreet tires from me,,if I stopped by. But,sounds like Clinton is too fararoundtrip drive to mess with while at Goodlettsville. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ClintClinton, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 186.61 milesTotal Estimated Time: 3 hours, 21 minutesOak Ridge, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 162.93 milesTotal Estimated Time: 2 hours, 48 minutesI just used mapquest (www.mapquest.com)DonnieIn a message dated 6/10/03 6:20:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Clinton
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
Yeah, I got the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a headache. I'mwondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume and see if I can feed them in from the top. C -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:36 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, I can't be entirely sure about a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the passenger side, nothing is required. The starter can still be attached. Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles getting it in there. Sarge -Original Message-From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, since I got so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them on. I need help on this one - anybody know how it's done??? Craig E. image001.gif
Re: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN
Probably "another" good excuse to buy a digital camera. I've got a bunch of stuff I could sell. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Richard M. Pruett Neither have I Clint. But, I swear, some of the stuff I've seen sold and the write ups that go along with them, I don't think you need more than a fourth grade education to figure it out!! Rich -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:42 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Clinton,TN Yeah,that will probably be my next option,Rich. Guess I need to learn how to sell stuff on there. Have always bought stuff,,never sold anything. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Richard M. Pruett E-Bay -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Thanks,guys. A shop there said they would buy some big prostreet tires from me,,if I stopped by. But,sounds like Clinton is too fararoundtrip drive to mess with while at Goodlettsville. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Directorhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ClintClinton, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 186.61 milesTotal Estimated Time: 3 hours, 21 minutesOak Ridge, TN to Nashville, TNTotal Distance: 162.93 milesTotal Estimated Time: 2 hours, 48 minutesI just used mapquest (www.mapquest.com)DonnieIn a message dated 6/10/03 6:20:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Clinton
