Re: [Chevelle-list] Th 350 end housing!
Title: Message Thanks! I'll check that! Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ - Original Message - From: John W. Lonadier, Jr. To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 7:25 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Th 350 end housing! Pelle, make sure that the u-joint in the rear end yoke is seated properly. There are a couple ridges in the yoke to make sure the u-joint is centered in it. If it is not centered in that yoke that could cause some vibration. John L. ACES #5597 70 LS5 TRIBUTE http://chevellfan.com/index89html -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle AnderssonSent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:06 AMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Th 350 end housing! I've changed the u-joints today and the vibrations got much much lesser! But... Is it common that the joke's splines get worn out, creating too much play damaging the end house bushing & u-joints? Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
Re: [Chevelle-list] SS hod
Yesss! Thanks! Just found a guy here in Sweden that imports for reasonable money! $400 all incl to Sweden :-) __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ - Original Message - From: Eddie Bumgarner To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] SS hod yes it will , it will give more fresh air from the back openingPelle Andersson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Will the non cowl induction (domed) SS hood provide any better engine bay vent than a std (flat) malibu hood? BR Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ Discover Yahoo!Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM & more. Check it out!
RE: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end??
I'm in the camp that if you want to do ANYTIHNG with your car, it's your business. This is the way I look at it: 1) It's my car 2) It's my money 3) It's my time Those that have a greater then thee attitude about original cars, all I can say is they get the money for them when they sell, and there is a big difference. So what's the diff? Just relax... Now, trying to pass it off with a bogus build sheet is crap, if not out right fraud. Oh, and my car? The guy that sold it to me claimed it to be an SS, but it had no documentation and a Washington state vin on the door jam. Is it an SS? I doubt it, and I never refer to it as such. To be honest all I was looking for was a clean, straight car and I liked the way it looks with the SS trim (especially the hood). I don't know if I would had gone to the trouble to add it all if it was not already there. Oh and I'd didn't offer or pay SS money for it either. Besides Baer brakes, a Tremec 5 speed and a 454 wasn't on the option list in '66 :-) I know what I want my '66 to be. Not a clone, certainly not "original" in the sense that the diehards think of, but original as in one of a kind, built from what my vision thinks it should be. Might come a day when we wished we'd see more Chevelles on the road, regardless of what's been done to them. Enjoy the rides, guys - that's all what it's really all about... Long Live Chevelles! Ron p.s. I'm 41 if it matters (which I don't think it really does) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of RJ WinklerSent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:43 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'The Chevelle Mailing List'Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end?? I just see it as the “SS” cars had a lot of the better equipment. I bought a Malibu because I don’t have the money to purchase some rusted out real ss for double what I got mine for. I’m completing a frame off restoration for the car and it will be a SS when I’m done. Just to save myself incase I do have to sell it some day a clone brings in more money than most malibus so id rather put my money where it has a chance. If someone trys to pull there car off as a real ss and it’s a clone that’s dumb, but you have to be dumber not to be able to spot it. THeres nothing wrong with people building these cars how they choose. Id rather seen 20 clones then 1 rusted out Chevelle getting crushed at some junkyard. Im 17. -RJ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave StudlySent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:15 AMTo: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end?? This is why I think guys, especially ones newer to classic cars, are silly for trying to buy original numbers matching cars. What exactly are you paying for when it can be duplicated and faked and be indistinguishable from a ‘real’ SS? What defines a ‘real’ SS anyway? One that has all the correct SS options, or only one that left the factory that way? What makes a ’70 SS454, all original, worth so much more than a ’70 Malibu with a 454/TH400/12-bolt posi ? If you’re buying and selling these cars to make money, I have no pity for them getting taken on cloned SS. With that said, when I finally re-do the body and paintwork on my ’70 Malibu, I’ll probably add SS stripes, Cowl hood, the rear bumper insert and paint my grill black with the stainless trim, although I probably will keep my idiot-light dash. With my EFI small block and Hotchkis suspension, no one will mistake it for a ‘real’ SS, but it’ll run circles around any ‘real’ SS. I’ll build my car the way I choose, much like Clint said. I’m 32. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gene's General Restoration PartsSent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:20 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end?? Just checking out eBay for stuff I need for my 69 and ran across someone selling build sheets! It is not bad enogh that everyone and their brother is building clones, but this should be against the law. They will even ''age'' it for you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4553646239&category=10076 I am curious, how many of you would consider building a clone and what is your age? I ask age because it seems like younger guys who build clones see nothing wrong with it. Personally I think it takes away from original cars, I mean you go to a show to see rare stuff and it takes the fun out of it. I would much rather look at a dozen Malibus and one SS versus a dozen fakes. I would bet there are more ''SS'' cars on the road now then there ever were built originally!! Sorry to vent, but I had to get this out of my system.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end??
I just see it as the “SS” cars had a lot of the better equipment. I bought a Malibu because I don’t have the money to purchase some rusted out real ss for double what I got mine for. I’m completing a frame off restoration for the car and it will be a SS when I’m done. Just to save myself incase I do have to sell it some day a clone brings in more money than most malibus so id rather put my money where it has a chance. If someone trys to pull there car off as a real ss and it’s a clone that’s dumb, but you have to be dumber not to be able to spot it. THeres nothing wrong with people building these cars how they choose. Id rather seen 20 clones then 1 rusted out Chevelle getting crushed at some junkyard. Im 17. -RJ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Studly Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:15 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end?? This is why I think guys, especially ones newer to classic cars, are silly for trying to buy original numbers matching cars. What exactly are you paying for when it can be duplicated and faked and be indistinguishable from a ‘real’ SS? What defines a ‘real’ SS anyway? One that has all the correct SS options, or only one that left the factory that way? What makes a ’70 SS454, all original, worth so much more than a ’70 Malibu with a 454/TH400/12-bolt posi ? If you’re buying and selling these cars to make money, I have no pity for them getting taken on cloned SS. With that said, when I finally re-do the body and paintwork on my ’70 Malibu, I’ll probably add SS stripes, Cowl hood, the rear bumper insert and paint my grill black with the stainless trim, although I probably will keep my idiot-light dash. With my EFI small block and Hotchkis suspension, no one will mistake it for a ‘real’ SS, but it’ll run circles around any ‘real’ SS. I’ll build my car the way I choose, much like Clint said. I’m 32. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gene's General Restoration Parts Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:20 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end?? Just checking out eBay for stuff I need for my 69 and ran across someone selling build sheets! It is not bad enogh that everyone and their brother is building clones, but this should be against the law. They will even ''age'' it for you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4553646239&category=10076 I am curious, how many of you would consider building a clone and what is your age? I ask age because it seems like younger guys who build clones see nothing wrong with it. Personally I think it takes away from original cars, I mean you go to a show to see rare stuff and it takes the fun out of it. I would much rather look at a dozen Malibus and one SS versus a dozen fakes. I would bet there are more ''SS'' cars on the road now then there ever were built originally!! Sorry to vent, but I had to get this out of my system.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end??
This is why I think guys, especially ones newer to classic cars, are silly for trying to buy original numbers matching cars. What exactly are you paying for when it can be duplicated and faked and be indistinguishable from a ‘real’ SS? What defines a ‘real’ SS anyway? One that has all the correct SS options, or only one that left the factory that way? What makes a ’70 SS454, all original, worth so much more than a ’70 Malibu with a 454/TH400/12-bolt posi ? If you’re buying and selling these cars to make money, I have no pity for them getting taken on cloned SS. With that said, when I finally re-do the body and paintwork on my ’70 Malibu, I’ll probably add SS stripes, Cowl hood, the rear bumper insert and paint my grill black with the stainless trim, although I probably will keep my idiot-light dash. With my EFI small block and Hotchkis suspension, no one will mistake it for a ‘real’ SS, but it’ll run circles around any ‘real’ SS. I’ll build my car the way I choose, much like Clint said. I’m 32. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gene's General Restoration Parts Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:20 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end?? Just checking out eBay for stuff I need for my 69 and ran across someone selling build sheets! It is not bad enogh that everyone and their brother is building clones, but this should be against the law. They will even ''age'' it for you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4553646239&category=10076 I am curious, how many of you would consider building a clone and what is your age? I ask age because it seems like younger guys who build clones see nothing wrong with it. Personally I think it takes away from original cars, I mean you go to a show to see rare stuff and it takes the fun out of it. I would much rather look at a dozen Malibus and one SS versus a dozen fakes. I would bet there are more ''SS'' cars on the road now then there ever were built originally!! Sorry to vent, but I had to get this out of my system.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end??
I'm not going to waste the bandwidth beating this dead horse again,guys. Not going to build my car to conform to anyone's standards but my own. If that pisses anyone off,tough shietski. Some of the clone people have obviously taken things to the extreme,I know,but lumping all clone lovers into that extreme category is wrong,too. Sorry,you don't want to get me started so I'm done. Have a nice evening. I'm heading for Chevellabration. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
Re: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end??
It happens alot in the lowrider field as well. It angers me to no end. The excuse is, that they would never try to sell it as a true SS, but I tell them, that that doesn't matter, because you know for a fact that the next guy will. I'm 30, (kinda not so young anymore) Friends don't let friends build clones Dan McIntosh1963 Impala SS Convertible"HOP IT TILL IT BREAKS"Street Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com - Original Message - From: Gene's General Restoration Parts To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:20 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end?? Just checking out eBay for stuff I need for my 69 and ran across someone selling build sheets! It is not bad enogh that everyone and their brother is building clones, but this should be against the law. They will even ''age'' it for you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4553646239&category=10076 I am curious, how many of you would consider building a clone and what is your age? I ask age because it seems like younger guys who build clones see nothing wrong with it. Personally I think it takes away from original cars, I mean you go to a show to see rare stuff and it takes the fun out of it. I would much rather look at a dozen Malibus and one SS versus a dozen fakes. I would bet there are more ''SS'' cars on the road now then there ever were built originally!! Sorry to vent, but I had to get this out of my system.
[Chevelle-list] Where will it end??
Just checking out eBay for stuff I need for my 69 and ran across someone selling build sheets! It is not bad enogh that everyone and their brother is building clones, but this should be against the law. They will even ''age'' it for you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4553646239&category=10076 I am curious, how many of you would consider building a clone and what is your age? I ask age because it seems like younger guys who build clones see nothing wrong with it. Personally I think it takes away from original cars, I mean you go to a show to see rare stuff and it takes the fun out of it. I would much rather look at a dozen Malibus and one SS versus a dozen fakes. I would bet there are more ''SS'' cars on the road now then there ever were built originally!! Sorry to vent, but I had to get this out of my system.
Re: [Chevelle-list] SS hod
yes it will , it will give more fresh air from the back openingPelle Andersson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Will the non cowl induction (domed) SS hood provide any better engine bay vent than a std (flat) malibu hood? BR Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ Discover Yahoo! Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM & more. Check it out!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations
My situation is this: I bought a 66SS with the restoration started. The chassis has been media blasted and painted. The body has beed on a rotissouri (sp?), the floors have been replaced and the body is now rust free. The body is currently coated with DuPont's UroPrimer but still needs some minor bodywork and blocking. The doors and front fenders haven't been touched. The fenders need patch panels and the doors have some rust as well, and may get new skins. I want to do all the bodywork myself, taking my time, piece by piece. Given my situation above, what would you all recommend? I like the idea of using an epoxy primer. I would prefer to seal each piece as I "finish" it, so it doesn't start rusting while waiting for the rest of the body to get done. I would imagine it may take me 3 to 6 months to get the body where I want. I have a compressor, but don't have a gun yet, but plan to buy one. I've shot paint before many moons ago, but I don't have access to a booth. I appreciate any/all wisdom... Thanks, Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish the project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body work over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS porous, will absorb water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen VariPrime start to rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the car. Trooper - Original Message - From: Gene's General Restoration Parts To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations While epoxy is good it requires metal treating whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't. On the other hand, epoxy is good on undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon as the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations Thanks to everyone who responded. Bill, I will be emailing you further off list. Larry - Original Message - From: Bill Vander Werf To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I would recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a garage can not can WILL lead to rust later. I would recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur family. Basecoat clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything the factory used back in the day but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event that something might happen to your baby. I sell PPG paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will make you happy. I would be glad to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly. Bill Vander Werf [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTE
Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations
i have the ultra 7000 and the entire system on my chevelle yes expencive but well worth it been on my car for 6 and half years and looks as good as it did the day it was buffed jmo-opinion suprsprt72 - Original Message - From: suprsprt72 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:52 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/ - Original Message - check out the link suprsprt72 From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish the project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body work over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS porous, will absorb water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen VariPrime start to rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the car. Trooper - Original Message - From: Gene's General Restoration Parts To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations While epoxy is good it requires metal treating whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't. On the other hand, epoxy is good on undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon as the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations Thanks to everyone who responded. Bill, I will be emailing you further off list. Larry - Original Message - From: Bill Vander Werf To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I would recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a garage can not can WILL lead to rust later. I would recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur family. Basecoat clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything the factory used back in the day but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event that something might happen to your baby. I sell PPG paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will make you happy. I would be glad to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly. Bill Vander Werf [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I'd like to poll the list members concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More specifically, did you use enamel, lac
Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/ - Original Message - check out the link suprsprt72 From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:48 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish the project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body work over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS porous, will absorb water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen VariPrime start to rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the car. Trooper - Original Message - From: Gene's General Restoration Parts To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations While epoxy is good it requires metal treating whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't. On the other hand, epoxy is good on undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon as the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations Thanks to everyone who responded. Bill, I will be emailing you further off list. Larry - Original Message - From: Bill Vander Werf To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I would recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a garage can not can WILL lead to rust later. I would recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur family. Basecoat clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything the factory used back in the day but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event that something might happen to your baby. I sell PPG paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will make you happy. I would be glad to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly. Bill Vander Werf [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I'd like to poll the list members concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More specifically, did you use enamel, lacquer, base /top coat system, etc. Also advice on what to look for or avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways off before my 66 is ready for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd like to come up with a plan. Thanks Everyone, Larry Shouse
Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations
Dupont 2570 is a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer and doesn't require any special pretreatment to the metal (just clean, oil free, dirt free surface). PrepSol will do this for you. An epoxy primer is the primer of choice if your going to need time to finish the project, need a water proof primer, need durability, or want to do body work over the primer. Although VariPrime is a good self etch primer is IS porous, will absorb water and will start to rust if not topcoated. I've seen VariPrime start to rust in about a week in places where guys have touch the car. Trooper - Original Message - From: Gene's General Restoration Parts To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:50 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations While epoxy is good it requires metal treating whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't. On the other hand, epoxy is good on undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon as the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations Thanks to everyone who responded. Bill, I will be emailing you further off list. Larry - Original Message - From: Bill Vander Werf To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I would recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a garage can not can WILL lead to rust later. I would recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur family. Basecoat clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything the factory used back in the day but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event that something might happen to your baby. I sell PPG paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will make you happy. I would be glad to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly. Bill Vander Werf [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I'd like to poll the list members concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More specifically, did you use enamel, lacquer, base /top coat system, etc. Also advice on what to look for or avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways off before my 66 is ready for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd like to come up with a plan. Thanks Everyone, Larry Shouse
Re: [Chevelle-list] Heater Hoses
That vehicle came with both styles. We can get them both for you. Sincerely, Nick Auto Obsession 805-306-0795 http://www.AutoObsession.com
RE: [Chevelle-list] Th 350 end housing!
Title: Message Pelle, make sure that the u-joint in the rear end yoke is seated properly. There are a couple ridges in the yoke to make sure the u-joint is centered in it. If it is not centered in that yoke that could cause some vibration. John L. ACES #5597 70 LS5 TRIBUTE http://chevellfan.com/index89.html -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle AnderssonSent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:06 AMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Th 350 end housing! I've changed the u-joints today and the vibrations got much much lesser! But... Is it common that the joke's splines get worn out, creating too much play damaging the end house bushing & u-joints? Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
[Chevelle-list] Heater Hoses
On 70 Chevelle Malibu were the original heater hoses the ribbed or did they have the GM markings? Need to replace them and what to replace with the correct ones. Thanks for the help. Chuck 70 Chevelle Malibu Glen Ellyn, IL
Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations
While epoxy is good it requires metal treating whereas the Vari-Prime is a self etching primer which is not porous and it has a longer gun life which decreases waste. And nothing against PPG, Vari-Prime is the only DuPont paint I use, the rest is PPG, I just don't like the PPG self etching primer. Plus epoxy seems to clog sandpaper when block sanding and the Vari-Prime doesn't. On the other hand, epoxy is good on undersides and frames and other items that can by painted right away as soon as the epoxy flashes, in other words without sanding. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:51 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations Thanks to everyone who responded. Bill, I will be emailing you further off list. Larry - Original Message - From: Bill Vander Werf To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I would recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a garage can not can WILL lead to rust later. I would recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur family. Basecoat clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything the factory used back in the day but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event that something might happen to your baby. I sell PPG paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will make you happy. I would be glad to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly. Bill Vander Werf [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I'd like to poll the list members concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More specifically, did you use enamel, lacquer, base /top coat system, etc. Also advice on what to look for or avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways off before my 66 is ready for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd like to come up with a plan. Thanks Everyone, Larry Shouse
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
I would think, Mark, that one direction would make the speedometer increase as I have never see and mph in reverse reading. It was just a test. Also, since the speedometer cable, once detached, is removable from one end, you can perhaps clean it and verify it's not broken. I have seen the cable assy on ebay real cheap. I had heard that was the way shyster car dealers used to turn back the milage on a used car. It's was worth a look mike --- Mark Schwartz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Mike, > > So do you turn the drill forward or reverse to check > the speedo? I presume > forward... > > thomas > > >From: mike f <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List > > >To: The Chevelle Mailing List > > >Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo > Help Needed. > >Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 16:24:18 -0700 (PDT) > > > >Put the transmission end into a drill and spin it > up. > >mike > >--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > > > Thank you, > > > > > > Yes I am going to check if the inner cable moves > > > when the transmission is moving and going to use > a > > > drill to see if the speedo meter works. > > > > > > Kelly > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > From: Krister Meister <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > > Cc: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net; > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Sent: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 13:49:38 -0500 > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo > Help > > > Needed. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Easy way to check cable condition is with the > old or > > > new cable hooked to > > > the trans, routed into the car correctly, > unhooked > > > to the speedo (have it > > > hanging down so you can see or feel the end) - > take > > > it for a slow ride > > > around the neighborhood and see if the inner > cable > > > rotates > > > > > > Krister > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent by: > > > To: > > > Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > > > > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > cc: > > > > > > > > > evelles.net > > > Fax to: > > > > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: > > > [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 06/06/2005 10:31 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > Please respond to The > > > > > > > > > > > > Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a 64 El Camino with a Muncie 4 speed, M > 21. > > > Just had it rebuilt > > > at Cottsman. Was recommended to me. After > > > getting the car back from > > > rebuilt transmission, my speedo does not work. > > > > > > I replaced the cable, and still nothing. I see > the > > > old cable worked ok, > > > once I removed it. > > > > > > With my cable it is a screw on cap at both ends, > so > > > not hard to replace. > > > Just can not figure why the speedo does not work > > > after having the > > > transmission rebuilt. yes it did work before > the > > > transmission work. > > > Will be talking to them today. > > > > > > So I too need help with the Transmission and > Speedo > > > cable too. > > > > > > Thank you All, > > > > > > Kelly > > > > > > > > > > > > >__ > >Discover Yahoo! > >Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and > more. Check it out! > >http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html > > > > > > __ Discover Yahoo! Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html
[Chevelle-list] Th 350 end housing!
I've changed the u-joints today and the vibrations got much much lesser! But... Is it common that the joke's splines get worn out, creating too much play damaging the end house bushing & u-joints? Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations
Thanks to everyone who responded. Bill, I will be emailing you further off list. Larry - Original Message - From: Bill Vander Werf To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 4:56 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I would recommend using an epoxy primer on all parts before using a primer surfacer or even body filler. Epoxy is waterproof whereas any primer surfacer is porous and will hold moisture. Not sealing steel from the elements, even stored in a garage can not can WILL lead to rust later. I would recommend a 2 part primer, any brand, over lacquer primer for fill capabilities and durability. Anything acrylic lacquer is now in the dinosaur family. Basecoat clearcoat systems will not only give you a superior finish over anything the factory used back in the day but it is easier for a novice to use and get a nice paint job. Acrylic enamels and other single stage metallics are more difficult to get metallic even with. Basecoat clearcoat systems make getting metallics even easy. Basecoat clearcoat is also much easier to spot repair in the event that something might happen to your baby. I sell PPG paints so my loyalty is with them but, honestly, any major brand of paint has done their homework and can offer you products that will make you happy. I would be glad to talk more offline with you if you want to email me directly. Bill Vander Werf [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:50 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Body Paint Recommendations I'd like to poll the list members concerning their choice in paints for their Chevelles. More specifically, did you use enamel, lacquer, base /top coat system, etc. Also advice on what to look for or avoid in paints / painting would be great. I'm a ways off before my 66 is ready for paint, but as I'm doing the bodywork, I'd like to come up with a plan. Thanks Everyone, Larry Shouse
Re: [Chevelle-list] NW Indiana 72 Chevelle FS
same question I was going to ask. - Original Message - From: suprsprt72 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 8:24 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] NW Indiana 72 Chevelle FS got any pics? - Original Message - From: Zieg72 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:13 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] NW Indiana 72 Chevelle FS I have decided to sell my 72 Chevelle do to other interests. I have a Texas car that is for the most part rust free. It has had floor board work and what little rust was on it was repaired right. It is a non-Malibu, non-SS but it is a straight 2 dr HT with the original black vinyl top. Original 350 engine untouched except for a 72 intake and 4 bbl from an elCamino. I was originally an auto but is currently set up for stick. The trans with it is an original 3 speed "72" but not from the same Chevelle. It runs perfect and has a nice interior. Headliner is great as well as the dash. I have new carpet for it. The interior is currently out of the car so careful inspection can be made as to its condition. I have a lot of new OEM trim pieces. It has factory AC. It is a package deal. It has 121K original and has been in a garage for 13 years. Will be gone till the 14th of June and will answer e-mails then. Make me an offer. No virus found in this outgoing message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.5 - Release Date: 6/7/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] NW Indiana 72 Chevelle FS
got any pics? - Original Message - From: Zieg72 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:13 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] NW Indiana 72 Chevelle FS I have decided to sell my 72 Chevelle do to other interests. I have a Texas car that is for the most part rust free. It has had floor board work and what little rust was on it was repaired right. It is a non-Malibu, non-SS but it is a straight 2 dr HT with the original black vinyl top. Original 350 engine untouched except for a 72 intake and 4 bbl from an elCamino. I was originally an auto but is currently set up for stick. The trans with it is an original 3 speed "72" but not from the same Chevelle. It runs perfect and has a nice interior. Headliner is great as well as the dash. I have new carpet for it. The interior is currently out of the car so careful inspection can be made as to its condition. I have a lot of new OEM trim pieces. It has factory AC. It is a package deal. It has 121K original and has been in a garage for 13 years. Will be gone till the 14th of June and will answer e-mails then. Make me an offer. No virus found in this outgoing message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.5 - Release Date: 6/7/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
Mike, So do you turn the drill forward or reverse to check the speedo? I presume forward... thomas From: mike f <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 16:24:18 -0700 (PDT) Put the transmission end into a drill and spin it up. mike --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Thank you, > > Yes I am going to check if the inner cable moves > when the transmission is moving and going to use a > drill to see if the speedo meter works. > > Kelly > > -Original Message- > From: Krister Meister <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > > Cc: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net; > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 13:49:38 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help > Needed. > > > > > > > Easy way to check cable condition is with the old or > new cable hooked to > the trans, routed into the car correctly, unhooked > to the speedo (have it > hanging down so you can see or feel the end) - take > it for a slow ride > around the neighborhood and see if the inner cable > rotates > > Krister > > > > > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > Sent by: > To: > Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > cc: > > > evelles.net > Fax to: > > > > Subject: Re: > [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. > > > > > > 06/06/2005 10:31 AM > > > > Please respond to The > > > > Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a 64 El Camino with a Muncie 4 speed, M 21. > Just had it rebuilt > at Cottsman. Was recommended to me. After > getting the car back from > rebuilt transmission, my speedo does not work. > > I replaced the cable, and still nothing. I see the > old cable worked ok, > once I removed it. > > With my cable it is a screw on cap at both ends, so > not hard to replace. > Just can not figure why the speedo does not work > after having the > transmission rebuilt. yes it did work before the > transmission work. > Will be talking to them today. > > So I too need help with the Transmission and Speedo > cable too. > > Thank you All, > > Kelly > __ Discover Yahoo! Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
[Chevelle-list] NW Indiana 72 Chevelle FS
I have decided to sell my 72 Chevelle do to other interests. I have a Texas car that is for the most part rust free. It has had floor board work and what little rust was on it was repaired right. It is a non-Malibu, non-SS but it is a straight 2 dr HT with the original black vinyl top. Original 350 engine untouched except for a 72 intake and 4 bbl from an elCamino. I was originally an auto but is currently set up for stick. The trans with it is an original 3 speed "72" but not from the same Chevelle. It runs perfect and has a nice interior. Headliner is great as well as the dash. I have new carpet for it. The interior is currently out of the car so careful inspection can be made as to its condition. I have a lot of new OEM trim pieces. It has factory AC. It is a package deal. It has 121K original and has been in a garage for 13 years. Will be gone till the 14th of June and will answer e-mails then. Make me an offer. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.5 - Release Date: 6/7/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 CHEVELLE
thanks but im a female
Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System - LS 5
Thanks Clint..that procharger hums...only 10lbs of boost to run that fast. Gotta love BBC's. Ran high 10's with a pretty much stock 396/350HP motor and the procharger. Sold the blower setupTurbo will be added next winter Walt http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Saturday, June 4, 2005 8:38 pm Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System - LS 5 > 10.30's at 132mph? YOWZA! Nice car,Walt. > Clint Hooper > H&H Custom,owner > 1969 El Camino ProTourer > 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > - Original Message - > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > > > > I do like the flowmaster sound but my 4" side exit was attracted > too > > many cops. I switched to a stainless Borla kit from headers to > bumper > > http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BORLA.htm The kit fit > really > > nice using factory mounting locations. Sound is good pretty > quite at > > idle. > > Walt > > http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 CHEVELLE
No sir. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 10:57 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 CHEVELLE Will a 1966 lemans hood fit a 1966 chevelle ? No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.4 - Release Date: 06/06/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 CHEVELLE
No. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 CHEVELLE Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 23:57:49 EDT Will a 1966 lemans hood fit a 1966 chevelle ? _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
