Re: [Chevelle-list] Coupon Codes
It depends. Where did the codes come from? Many times they are generic, but they can also often be given to specific Web sites or affiliates. If the code was given to a specific affiliate, then it might only be valid for them and should not be shared. You might want to see if any of these vendors have affiliate programs. If so, you can both earn money and give them discounts when you refer them. Karl Groves wrote: Does anyone know if coupon codes for the parts houses (like Classic Industries, Year One, etc.) are unique? Every so often I get a postcard from some of those places, and I was contemplating posting them on my website www.8pistons.com so others could save money, too, but I don't know if others can use them or just me (in other words, if there's one coupon code per customer or something). Karl Groves Skype: eight.pistons AIM, YIM, MSN: karlcore http://www.karlcore.com http://www.grayscalecms.com http://www.thehotrodclassifieds.com http://www.8pistons.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 50, Issue 37
how much?? [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest... Today's Topics: 1. exhaust syystems (mike f) 2. Re: In cylinder video (Dennis McGillis) 3. Re: In cylinder video (Rick Schaefer) 4. Re: Lost keys ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 5. New toy (Josh Campbell) From: mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 14:30:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Chevelle-list] exhaust syystems How well do you like the Magnaflow systems? I need to do a 2.5 on my 67. I also like the pypes systems. I can not afford the stainless but the 403 system are about $500-650. What about noise levels? Does one make more noise than the other? Whatever I get my plan would be more happy with the x-pipe or small crossover pipe, I think. Any thoughts are appreciated. mike - Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. From: Dennis McGillis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 14:32:12 -0700 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] In cylinder video Very cool! Thanks for sharing, I sent it along to about 50 other motorheads. Dennis McGillis 1965 Malibu SS-350 - Original Message - From: Malibu To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:53 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] In cylinder video Video of a cylinder firing. This is pretty neat. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5815350492893860613hl=en From: Rick Schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Dennis McGillis [EMAIL PROTECTED], The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 18:01:24 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] In cylinder video Ditto the very cool. Passed it along also. On 9/30/07, Dennis McGillis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Very cool! Thanks for sharing, I sent it along to about 50 other motorheads. Dennis McGillis 1965 Malibu SS-350 - Original Message - From: Malibu To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:53 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] In cylinder video Video of a cylinder firing. This is pretty neat. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5815350492893860613hl=en -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:22:39 EDT Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Lost keys Yes, He kept the code on file. - See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. From: Josh Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:33:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Chevelle-list] New toy Hey guys check out my new winter project. Just got back from Penn. I got it at a pretty good steal, but it needs help in the usual places, by spring it'll have new quarters, passenger fender, one rocker, maybe a hood.. but the little 307 fires up fine (thats gotta go). Anyway I'll keep you guys posted, catch you all later. Josh Campbell 2 66SS396 71 Malibu - Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! ___ Chevelle-list mailing list Chevelle-list@chevelles.net http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net - Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos more.
[Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Keep bleeding, bleeding, bleding then bleed some more until you have more pedal. That has been my experience at least. Daniel Solomon wrote: Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from the adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are always on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure. Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power from your braking? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX _ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Did you use the correct rod from the pedal to the m/c? ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
This may sound really dumb, but this happened to me this year. I went from a manual 4 drum system to a power disk braking system. I got everything all hooked up, but I wasn't impressed with the stopping power. I started to hear a leak from my booster after a few months, so I ordered a new one. Well I removed the master cylinder and realized my friend who hooked up the booster and master didn't put in the connecting rod between then. So I had a huge air leak through that area and I had no physical connection between the booster and the master. I doubt anyone else in the world could be that dumb, but I like to share my dumb stories. PS~I drove my car like that for 5 months before I fixed the problem. Now the car actually stops. Good luck. I'd guess it is a bleeding issue. I also had a problem while bleeding that one fitting wasn't real tight on the rear T and it kept letting air slowing back into the system while bleeding. [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10/01/2007 11:09 AM Please respond to [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Please respond to The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net To The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net cc Subject Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Caterpillar: Confidential Green Retain Until: 10/31/2007Retention Category: G90 - General Matters/Administration Keep bleeding, bleeding, bleding then bleed some more until you have more pedal. That has been my experience at least. Daniel Solomon wrote: Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the power assist. Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Brad Wallermailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from the adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are always on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure. Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power from your braking? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
I will check for the rod when I pull it off. I could be that dumb. It depends on how many cold ones I had before I put it together. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Randy S Johnsonmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing Listmailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:17 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking This may sound really dumb, but this happened to me this year. I went from a manual 4 drum system to a power disk braking system. I got everything all hooked up, but I wasn't impressed with the stopping power. I started to hear a leak from my booster after a few months, so I ordered a new one. Well I removed the master cylinder and realized my friend who hooked up the booster and master didn't put in the connecting rod between then. So I had a huge air leak through that area and I had no physical connection between the booster and the master. I doubt anyone else in the world could be that dumb, but I like to share my dumb stories. PS~I drove my car like that for 5 months before I fixed the problem. Now the car actually stops. Good luck. I'd guess it is a bleeding issue. I also had a problem while bleeding that one fitting wasn't real tight on the rear T and it kept letting air slowing back into the system while bleeding. [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10/01/2007 11:09 AM Please respond to [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Please respond to The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net To The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net cc Subject Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Caterpillar: Confidential GreenRetain Until: 10/31/2007 Retention Category: G90 - General Matters/Administration Keep bleeding, bleeding, bleding then bleed some more until you have more pedal. That has been my experience at least. Daniel Solomon wrote: Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
What is the difference? I used the one that was with the car. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.netmailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:05 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Did you use the correct rod from the pedal to the m/c? -- See what's new at AOL.comhttp://www.aol.com/?NCID=AOLCMP0030001170 and Make AOL Your Homepagehttp://www.aol.com/mksplash.adp?NCID=AOLCMP0030001169.
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
I don't see a listing for a power drum master cylinder. Could you get power with drums in 1970? Would I be better off with the power disc brake M/C? Dan - Original Message - From: Brad Wallermailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from the adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are always on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure. Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power from your braking? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan
[Chevelle-list] magnaflow or pypes exhaust
How well do you like the Magnaflow systems? I need to do a 2.5 on my 67. I also like the pypes systems. I can not afford the stainless but the 403 system are about $500-650. What about noise levels? Does one make more noise than the other? Whatever I get my plan would be more happy with the x-pipe or small crossover pipe, I think. Any thoughts are appreciated. thanks mike Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mailp=graduation+giftscs=bz
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be two different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the clevis to attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for power. Mike - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomon To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the power assist. Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Brad Waller To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from the adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are always on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure. Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power from your braking? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 10/1/2007 10:20 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
From: Daniel Solomon [EMAIL PROTECTED]Date: Monday, October 1, 2007 11:55 amSubject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor BrakingTo: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Picked up my 70Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel.I was not aware of different length pushrods, that sounds like something to check.The little links between wheel cylinder and shoe is in place on all brake shoes?Maybe recheck the adjustment on the brake shoes?Four shoes with too much clearance will eat up your pedal travel in a hurry.Been there, done that!Pete
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Did you bleed the master cylinder when it was mounted?If so, you may still have air trapped at the high end.In my limited experience I've had better luck bench bleeding the master cylinder on the bench before installation. A bench bleeding kit is only a few bucks. On 10/1/07, chevelle292wagon dejazzd.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Daniel Solomon [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Monday, October 1, 2007 11:55 am Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. I was not aware of different length pushrods, that sounds like something to check. The little links between wheel cylinder and shoe is in place on all brake shoes? Maybe recheck the adjustment on the brake shoes? Four shoes with too much clearance will eat up your pedal travel in a hurry. Been there, done that! Pete -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
[Chevelle-list] Banjo Fitting
I need a banjo fitting for the electric fuel pump on my el camino. And can't find one that has a 3/8 barbed output. The pump has a 12 mm output.This is similar to what I need but it is for brakes : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harley-Chrome-12MM-90-Degree-Male-Banjo-Brake-Fitting_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35569QQihZ020QQitemZ300155303285QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I could use a straight output but with limited space the elbow is better. Now I am using the 5/16 barbed fitting that came with the pump but would like to upgrade to 3/8 hose.Can anyone point me in the right direction? -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Mike, How will I know if the rod and the M/C match? I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Mike Hollemanmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing Listmailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be two different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the clevis to attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for power. Mike - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomonmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing Listmailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the power assist. Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Brad Wallermailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from the adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are always on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure. Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power from your braking? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 10/1/2007 10:20 AM
[Chevelle-list] '67 El Camino
A number of years ago I posted about a '67 inside a decaying barn I passed every day on my way to work here in southern Wisconsin. All I could see was the grille and recently even that was getting hard to see...until today. There's now a worn black '67 El Camino sitting out at the end of the driveway. I didn't see any signs on it so I have no idea why it was moved, although these days the barn is starting to look very unsound. If I find out it's for sale I'll post the particulars but it looks like it'd be a major project. Brad
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Daniel, the push rod length and often the depth of the pushrod hold in master cylinder is different between power and non-power. I found this out the hard way. In fact the pushrod depth is often different with new master cylinders anyway. Check pushrod in back of master cylinder and it probably is not moving far enough. Hope this helps. Been there done that and after much worry and work found right pushrod. - Original Message - From: chevelle292wagon dejazzd.com To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 12:12 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking From: Daniel Solomon [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Monday, October 1, 2007 11:55 am Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. I was not aware of different length pushrods, that sounds like something to check. The little links between wheel cylinder and shoe is in place on all brake shoes? Maybe recheck the adjustment on the brake shoes? Four shoes with too much clearance will eat up your pedal travel in a hurry. Been there, done that! Pete
Re: [Chevelle-list] '67 El Camino
Where in southern Wisconsin, I am in Elkhorn myself. Jason F 69 chevelle - Original Message - From: Brad Olson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:21 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] '67 El Camino A number of years ago I posted about a '67 inside a decaying barn I passed every day on my way to work here in southern Wisconsin. All I could see was the grille and recently even that was getting hard to see...until today. There's now a worn black '67 El Camino sitting out at the end of the driveway. I didn't see any signs on it so I have no idea why it was moved, although these days the barn is starting to look very unsound. If I find out it's for sale I'll post the particulars but it looks like it'd be a major project. Brad
Re: [Chevelle-list] '67 El Camino
-- Original message -- From: Jason Fiegel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Where in southern Wisconsin, I am in Elkhorn myself. Out in the country southwest of Stoughton, which is itself roughly halfway between Madison and Janesville. I won't be going home that way tonight because I have some errands to run in town, but I'll watch for it tomorrow. Years ago I sent a letter about it to the address there but never heard anything back. I'm wondering if somebody knocked on the door and asked about it. I always hoped that it'd be a 2-door with a 283 and 3 on the tree... Brad
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Dan, The rods are approx. 1 different in length. If you have a short rod, less than an inch in length your hole depth in the M/C should be the same. The only problem comes if your M/C has the deep hole, more than an inch and the booster the short. Always bench bleed the M/C. You need to be sure you fully stroke the M/C until you get no more air. The M/C when mounted does not get fully stroked and herein lies the problem trying to bleed it mounted. Get the little kit at Auto Zone for M/C bleeding. Has threaded nipples and clear tubes. That way you can see the air is gone. Mike - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomon To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:14 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Mike, How will I know if the rod and the M/C match? I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be two different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the clevis to attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for power. Mike - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomon To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the power assist. Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Brad Waller To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from the adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are always on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure. Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power from your braking? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve All New Lines Silicone Brake Fluid I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! Thanks, Dan -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 10/1/2007
Re: [Chevelle-list] Banjo Fitting
I know Aeroquip makes straight banjo to hose adapters, here's one from Summit: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=banjoN=700+4294924496+4294839052+115+300072autoview=skuNtk=KeywordSearch; I have a few more sources to check. Is the thread coarse or fine, M12 x 1.75 or M12 x 1.25? I'll let you know if I find one but it would be from a hydraulic supplier... FYI: A fitting designed for brakes will be able to withstand high pressures (2000 PSI) a fuel fitting will be light weight due to less pressure (15 PSI). You can substitute a hydraulic fitting and open up the internal passage to allow more flow. G r a n i t e C i t y P e r f o r m a n c e custom engineered competition components Rick Schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: = I need a banjo fitting for the electric fuel pump on my el camino. And can't find one that has a 3/8 barbed output. The pump has a 12 mm output.This is similar to what I need but it is for brakes : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harley-Chrome-12MM-90-Degree-Male-Banjo-Brake-Fitting_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35569QQihZ020QQitemZ300155303285QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I could use a straight output but with limited space the elbow is better. Now I am using the 5/16 barbed fitting that came with the pump but would like to upgrade to 3/8 hose.Can anyone point me in the right direction? -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
[Chevelle-list] OT: Microsoft Publisher 2007
I know this is way off topic, but I have a need to confirm that MS Publisher 2007 will or will not properly convert to .html. Would anyone have MS Publisher 2007 that would allow me to send them a .pub file to convert, then send it back to me as .html in a .zip file? If it works out, I'll just buy Publisher, but don't want to spend the money only to find it doesn't convert any better than the 2003 version that I already have. And the 2007 trial version doesn't let me publish as .html. Please email me privately: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal WHOSE CRUEL IDEA WAS IT FOR THE WORD LISP TO HAVE S IN IT? - unknown Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Malibu wrote: /Video of a cylinder firing. This is pretty neat./ // /http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5815350492893860613hl=en http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5815350492893860613hl=en/ Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.37/1042 - Release Date: 10/1/2007 6:59 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Mike, Pulled it all apart tonight and I suspect the booster and the master cylinder were not a match. I have a deep hole M/C which according to Master Power is for manual applications. The rod is sticking out the same amount from the booster but the actuation rod will not come out of the booster. Possibly pushed too far? I am going to put the original shaft in, drop the booster and see what happens. Will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the help. Thanks, Dan Solomon -Original Message- From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 16:55:05 To:The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Dan, The rods are approx. 1 different in length. If you have a short rod, less than an inch in length your hole depth in the M/C should be the same. The only problem comes if your M/C has the deep hole, more than an inch and the booster the short. Always bench bleed the M/C. You need to be sure you fully stroke the M/C until you get no more air. The M/C when mounted does not get fully stroked and herein lies the problem trying to bleed it mounted. Get the little kit at Auto Zone for M/C bleeding. Has threaded nipples and clear tubes. That way you can see the air is gone. Mike - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomon mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:14 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Mike, How will I know if the rod and the M/C match? I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be two different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the clevis to attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for power. Mike - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomon mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the power assist. Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild. Thanks, Dan - Original Message - From: Brad Waller mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from the adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are always on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure. Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power from your braking? Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running... 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new 4 New Brake Cylinders New Drum Brake Master Cylinder Used GM Power Booster Original Proportioning Valve
Re: [Chevelle-list] Repairing a power seat
Good evening - I need a little guidance - My '70 SS has been in the shop for the past few days for some work and it was discovered that the driver's power seat died - (My front buckets were being taken out to be redone) - I realize that this is a some what rare option but I need some guidance on where to either send it for refurbrishing or who might have the necessary parts needed i.e. motor, etc - Your help is appreciated - Thanks - Rich _ Connect to the next generation of MSN Messenger http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-ussource=wlmailtagline
