[Chevelle-List] What have I got?
A few years ago I bought an SS dash assembly for my '70 Malibu. Now I'm getting around to installing it (if it ever stops raining), and I started doing some research. I found a nice page that describes the wiring changes to go from idiot lights to gauges. I noticed however that there is a wire for the oil pressure gauge. Hu. my instrument panel doesn't seem to have an oil pressure gauge. I got a tach, speedo, clock, amps, fuel, and water temp, but no oil pressure. Are there different versions of the 'full instrumentation' package? I would have gladly given up the 'amps' for the oil pressure gauge. Gary York, PA - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Voltage
I've got a couple of questions about the charging system in a '70 Chevelle. I just replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator. When idling, the voltage typically runs around 13 volts (just after starting the car). What concerns me however, is that when I race the engine the voltage goes up to 15 volts. Is this normal? Also, when idling, sometimes the regulator will let the charging system drop out, meaning it will drop all the way back to the nominal 12 volts, and then pop back up the 13v. This seems reasonable if the battery doesn't need a charge, but it does this in such a way that the dome light (if it's on) has a noticeable flicker. I have run ground wires all over, and I'm sure the regulator and alternator are well grounded. I just wonder if this operation is normal. At some point I plan to put a nice stereo in the car, and I really don't want to fry that. Gary Treible York, PA - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Voltage
Gene, I can't find that site. Gary - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 12:40 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Voltage Gary, Check out madelectric.com. Very good technical articles concerning wiring efficiencies and inefficiencies in muscle cars. I think he explains why you are seeing what you are seeing with your Chevelle. Gene I've got a couple of questions about the charging system in a '70 Chevelle. I just replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator. When idling, the voltage typically runs around 13 volts (just after starting the car). What concerns me however, is that when I race the engine the voltage goes up to 15 volts. Is this normal? Also, when idling, sometimes the regulator will let the charging system drop out, meaning it will drop all the way back to the nominal 12 volts, and then pop back up the 13v. This seems reasonable if the battery doesn't need a charge, but it does this in such a way that the dome light (if it's on) has a noticeable flicker. I have run ground wires all over, and I'm sure the regulator and alternator are well grounded. I just wonder if this operation is normal. At some point I plan to put a nice stereo in the car, and I really don't want to fry that. Gary Treible York, PA - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Voltage
Well, I'm guessing I have a regulator problem. I took the (new) regulator out and soldered a wire onto the sense terminal. I've got a VOM with long leads, so I connected to VOM to the sense wire and ground at the regulator, and when I race the engine I see just a tad over 15 volts *at the regulator*. From the MAD site, it would seem that the regulator should be regulating 14.2v. Another interesting thing is that the instruction sheet that came with the new regulator went on about it being solid state, and thus eliminating moving parts and the big relays. I took the cover off it, and guess what. Relays and moving parts!! No semiconductors. Gary - Original Message - From: Dan McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 1:09 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Voltage http://www.madelectrical.com/ Dan McIntosh Bagged 64 Impala SS http://www.alloldchevy.com - Original Message - From: Gary Treible [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 12:52 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Voltage Gene, I can't find that site. Gary - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 12:40 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Voltage Gary, Check out madelectric.com. Very good technical articles concerning wiring efficiencies and inefficiencies in muscle cars. I think he explains why you are seeing what you are seeing with your Chevelle. Gene I've got a couple of questions about the charging system in a '70 Chevelle. I just replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator. When idling, the voltage typically runs around 13 volts (just after starting the car). What concerns me however, is that when I race the engine the voltage goes up to 15 volts. Is this normal? Also, when idling, sometimes the regulator will let the charging system drop out, meaning it will drop all the way back to the nominal 12 volts, and then pop back up the 13v. This seems reasonable if the battery doesn't need a charge, but it does this in such a way that the dome light (if it's on) has a noticeable flicker. I have run ground wires all over, and I'm sure the regulator and alternator are well grounded. I just wonder if this operation is normal. At some point I plan to put a nice stereo in the car, and I really don't want to fry that. Gary Treible York, PA - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] rip-off body shops
Slander 1 : the utterance of false charges or misrepresentations which defame and damage another's reputation 2 : a false and defamatory oral statement about a person If you got proof, it ain't slander. Gary Treible York, PA - Original Message - From: Dave Corgill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 3:58 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] rip-off body shops At 02:22 PM 03/29/2003 -0600, you wrote: Great idea but the trouble is, it could be construed as slander. Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709 67SS/67 Elky Yep, that's why nobody can do it, sad. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 1970 lap cooler locations
Would anyone with a 1970 car with air be so kind as to snap me a couple of digital pictures showing the location of the under-dash lap cooler vents? I bought a set of vents from a car with air and want to get them in the right spots. Thanks Gary
[Chevelle-List] Harmonic Balancer Installation (part 2)
Oh yeah.. one more question. On an automatic car, what is the best way to keep the crank from turning? Gary - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Timing Help
Maybe somebody can help me figure this out. I've got a '70 Chevelle with a 327 engine supposedly from a '67 Corvette (based on block numbers). The car is new to me so I've been doing lots of maintenance. Yesterday was ignition day. The car got new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, points, and condenser. I did this not just because the parts were old, but I was getting some knocking (even with a bottle of 104 in the tank), and the car was hard starting, like 'rumph' then stop while cranking. I concluded this was probably the result of having too much advance, so it was my plan to deal with that once everything was replaced. After getting all the new parts installed, I disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged the tap at the carb, and set the dwell at 30 degrees. It moves less than 2 degrees from idle to high RPM, so it seems alright. Now this is the thing I can't explain. I have an advance timing light (with the knob). I checked the timing at curb idle with the vacuum advance disabled, and found that it was running at 38 degrees! I definitely was on cylinder #1 (front driver's side bank), and the wires are all hooked up according the 'normal' factory diagram. I was afraid that there wouldn't be enough adjustment to get back to just a few degrees, buy we tried that, and got as low as 10 degrees, but the car would hardly run. Also, after you raced the engine, it wouldn't go right back to idle, but would hang up a high RPM and eventually drop to idle. To make a long story short, we set the timing back to where it was, and backed off 5 degrees. This is probably near perfect as I now just get an occasional knock under hard acceleration, and the starting problem has gone away. I'm frustrated though because the 'science' doesn't seem to be working. The plan was to verify about 4 to 6 degrees at curb idle, and with the springs off the centrifugal advance, at about 2000 RPM (or so) check for 36-38 degrees of total advance. The centrifugal advance parts look ok, and I operated them by hand. Could they be bad? Also, the harmonic balancer is keyed to the crank shaft right? It can't be put on wrong (or can it?). Any input is appreciated. Gary - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Console Shifter Mounting
Dwight, Thanks, but I have the assembly manual for 1970. As you say it doesn't have quite the level of detail I'd like. I get the impression that since the shifter is cable operated, it really doesn't matter where it's located exactly, and the guys at the factory had some latitude in placing the whole console assembly. I hate things like that :-) Thanks Gary - Original Message - From: Dwight Fulton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 1:47 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Console Shifter Mounting Gary I have a Factory assembly manual for 72's while it doesn't show exact hole locations it may be helpful to you. I can make copies and fax them to you if you have access to a fax machine. Dwight - Original Message - From: Gary Treible Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 11:30 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Console Shifter Mounting I'm getting ready to put an AT console shifter in my 1970 Chevelle. I'm a bit aprehensive about getting it properly located. Does anyone have the hole locations from a factory car? I can see the dimple where the cable goes through the floor, but that's all I've got. Wanting to measure twice and drill once in PA. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Console Shifter Mounting
Well It's done. It works, the shifts seem to be coordinated with the detents, *and* the neutral safety switch and backup lights work. Hoo...Rah! Just a few comments though (I used a ShiftWorks conversion kit on the transmission, a real GM cable, and an Old Old Stock shifter.: 1. The clips provided to secure the cable in the shifter and the transmission bracket are a joke. They were hard to put on, but didn't seem to retain the cable if I pushed on it. Maybe I didn't use them correctly, but I followed the directions 'best I could. I solved this by 'closing' the openings with a visegrip so the cable can't come out. 2. When drilling the hole for the cable, it wants to come out at a really shallow angle. Drill the hole appropiately. 3. I have no clue how I'll drill pilot holes for the rubber boot that seals the cable hole. Remove the drive shaft? Ha! Can you say RTV? 4. The cable connects to the shift lever on the transmission with a stud. That stud is shown as bolting on with just a flat washer and a nut. I think it should have a lock washer at least. A lock nut would be better. 5. On the side of a TH350 there are two tapped holes in the case that match the cable bracket perfectly. Don't use them... follow the directions... it will save you at least an hour :-) The cable bracket mounts using the pan bolts. Mine did not leak when I removed two in a row, but I worried about it. 6. The neutral safety switch connector is fed from two thick purple wires. It's on the very top of the steering column (hard to see). You will bust your knuckles when the connector comes apart, but hey no pain...(you get the idea). 7. I did all this work with the front end up on ramps. Although I had the emergency brake set, rear wheel chocks, and jack stands under the car, I was uncomfortable with the idea that as I wrenched on the shifter it would come out of park and the car could roll. To solve this I used a Chevy Suburban parked just behind and touching the Chevelle. Although the transmission was shifted through all the gears (many times) during the installation, the car never moved. Tomorrow it will be time to make the console lights work. I still haven't located that connector, but I got all day. Gary - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Console Shifter Mounting
I'm getting ready to put an AT console shifter in my 1970 Chevelle. I'm a bit aprehensive about getting it properly located. Does anyone have the hole locations from a factory car? I can see the dimple where the cable goes through the floor, but that's all I've got. Wanting to measure twice and drill once in PA. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Need engine identification help
Where physically on the head is the casting number? Gary Gary, your correct about it being a 1967 ,327 2 bolt main. As for the HP? What is the casting # on the heads? Rich 66 Malibu ACES # 5066 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Need engine identification help
I have a 1970 Malibu. I know the car does not have the original engine, but I don't know what it is. The code from the front of the block is: T0912H0 From the research I've been able to do this engine was made in Tonawanda on September 19th, and it's either a 1965 Corvette (327, 300HP) engine *or* a 1969 'B' body 350. I'm told that checking the block casting date at the rear of the engine will decide the 327/350 issue. My question is... is there a shortcut to this? For instance, do we know that Corvette engines were *never* built in Tonawanda? The block casting date looks like it will be hard to read. Thanks, Gary - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Need engine identification help
OK...I got the block number, which was much easier after I finally understood where it was. The number is 3903352 which is 1967 3903352 327CID 210lowhp 350highhp 2 So I would conclude this engine is from a 1967 Corvette with powerglide. Seem right? According to my data that would have had 300 factory HP. Gary Chilton's shows the HO to be from either a 69 Corvette 327/T.H. or 65/66/67 Corvette with Powerglide. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 1970 SS Bucket Seat Question
Hello all, I have a 1970 2 door Malibu that is slowly becoming more of an SS. Years ago I bought two 'SS' bucket seats for the car, I also have the adaptor plates for mounting the seats to the floor where a bench seat once stood. I had the 'drivers seat' installed in the car when I noticed that the remaining seat had the switch in the bottom for the seat belt interlock. One would think it must have been the drivers seat, so I switched 'em. But that meant that the seat adjustment lever is now on the console side of the driver's seat. The Wife says this looks wrong! Can someone tell me how these seats are supposed to go? Perhaps these are not even Chevelle seats, and I was sold a bill of goods. The seats have a plastic shell that makes up the back, and the fold release is a button located in the center of the back of the seat. I can send a picture to anyone interested in giving me some input. Thanks, Gary Treible York, PA - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] 1970 SS Bucket Seat Question
So you are saying the adjustment handle should be on the door side? I'll just put the 'other' seat back in. I don't plan to connect the seat belt interlock anyway. Gary - Original Message - From: NoNeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 9:03 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 1970 SS Bucket Seat Question You should be able to switch the seat tracks and get your adjustment handle on the correct side. Josh Gin (NoNeck) Visit my Chevelle website www.NoNecksChevelle.com - Original Message - From: Gary Treible [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 6:42 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] 1970 SS Bucket Seat Question Hello all, I have a 1970 2 door Malibu that is slowly becoming more of an SS. Years ago I bought two 'SS' bucket seats for the car, I also have the adaptor plates for mounting the seats to the floor where a bench seat once stood. I had the 'drivers seat' installed in the car when I noticed that the remaining seat had the switch in the bottom for the seat belt interlock. One would think it must have been the drivers seat, so I switched 'em. But that meant that the seat adjustment lever is now on the console side of the driver's seat. The Wife says this looks wrong! Can someone tell me how these seats are supposed to go? Perhaps these are not even Chevelle seats, and I was sold a bill of goods. The seats have a plastic shell that makes up the back, and the fold release is a button located in the center of the back of the seat. I can send a picture to anyone interested in giving me some input. Thanks, Gary Treible York, PA - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
