subject:"\[Chevelle\-list\] rear end problem"




I'm 
having some trouble coming up with tools and supplies to do this job. 
Nobody has an inch/pound torque wrench or a dial indicator around here. I 
got the pinion seal and a new universal joint (since the drive shaft is down 
anyway), but nobody seems to have the rear cover gasket. Pep Boys says 
there are 7 in Indiana and 13 in Texas. That seems kind of strange because 
I didn't think 12 bolt rears were that rare.Steve

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 8:00 
  PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] rear end problemIn a message dated 8/22/2003 10:49:26 PM Eastern 
  Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
  will need to purchase a dial 
indicator. If it doesn't come with instructions (like most tools), how 
do I measure the backlash. Additionally, how do I change the readings- 
adjust the backlash if the end result does not equal the initial 
backlash? On a side note, will I need to remove the 12 bolt cover in 
back for any reason? Bear with meyour instructions will probably 
seem more simple after I get a good look at the nut and pinion. I'm 
not going to take the driveshaft down until after dinner. I'm still 
cleaning the mess away. Thanks for your help. Have you done many 
of these? Sounds like you have been down this road once or 
twice.SteveI've done a few rears. I would pull the back cover 
  off to drain the oil, put a new gasket on it, and put some fresh 90 weight in 
  it. The dial indicator will come with directions. It's very 
  difficult to explain how to set it up and measure it without physically 
  showing you, so just read the directions carefully. You will not 
  have to do anything internally to the rear. If all goes as it should and 
  you crank on the yoke nut, you won't need to do any adjusting. The 
  backlash is controlled by 2 factors, the postion of the differential itself, 
  and the depth of the pinion. There are shims inside on the pinion 
  between the inner bearing and the pinion head which you won't even see. 
  There is also a crush collar in there, another thing you won't see,which takes 
  up the slack so there is no play in the pinion. As long as there is 
  no play in it when you are done, it will be just where it was before you 
  started the job. Good luck,Tom 

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Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem

2003-08-24 Thread KNUTSONChevelle

In a message dated 8/23/03 6:04:54 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm having some trouble coming up with tools and supplies to do this job. Nobody has an inch/pound torque wrench or a dial indicator around here. I got the pinion seal and a new universal joint (since the drive shaft is down anyway), but nobody seems to have the rear cover gasket. Pep Boys says there are 7 in Indiana and 13 in Texas. That seems kind of strange because I didn't think 12 bolt rears were that rare.Steve

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 8:00 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem

In a message dated 8/22/2003 10:49:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

will need to purchase a dial indicator. If it doesn't come with instructions (like most tools), how do I measure the backlash. Additionally, how do I change the readings- adjust the backlash if the end result does not equal the initial backlash? On a side note, will I need to remove the 12 bolt cover in back for any reason? Bear with meyour instructions will probably seem more simple after I get a good look at the nut and pinion. I'm not going to take the driveshaft down until after dinner. I'm still cleaning the mess away. Thanks for your help. Have you done many of these? Sounds like you have been down this road once or twice.
Steve

I've done a few rears. I would pull the back cover off to drain the oil, put a new gasket on it, and put some fresh 90 weight in it. The dial indicator will come with directions. It's very difficult to explain how to set it up and measure it without physically showing you, so just read the directions carefully. 
You will not have to do anything internally to the rear. If all goes as it should and you crank on the yoke nut, you won't need to do any adjusting. 
The backlash is controlled by 2 factors, the postion of the differential itself, and the depth of the pinion. There are shims inside on the pinion between the inner bearing and the pinion head which you won't even see. There is also a crush collar in there, another thing you won't see,which takes up the slack so there is no play in the pinion. 
As long as there is no play in it when you are done, it will be just where it was before you started the job. 

Good luck,

Tom 

I have a torque wrench  I'm in Arlington. You can borrow it if ya want. As for the differential gasket. You don't need one!
Just clean both surfaces real good, wipe down with alcohol, get some orange high temp silicone (a small tube will do the trick), lay a bead on the cover about 1/8 inch high, mount the cover tighten the screws and you've got the best seal you could ever have.
I done this many times, differentials, valve covers, auto trans pans. Never had a leak. Not like the original gaskets that get hard and shrink. 
Just my 2 cents worth. 
Let me know if ya want to borrow the wrench. I also have an indicator.
Dan
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Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

2003-08-24 Thread Trooper

I know I'm coming into this late and you may already have the job done. I
agree with Dave's method of seal replacement. The only thing he forgot is,
before you put the washer and nut back on, fill the area under the washer
(around the pinion and yoke interface) with RTV to seal it. Otherwise you
will have a little leak there. You don't need to measure backlash. This is
controlled by the pinion and carrier shims which you will not be touching.
The only thing you need to worry about is getting the correct preload. If
you line your marks up you will be very close. If you want to get more
technical. Get a inch pound torque wrench and place it on the pinion nut
prior to disassembly and turn the pinion. measure the resistance in inch
pounds. Do the removal and repair and put the nut back on. As you tighten
the nut check the preload with the torque wrench often. When you get back to
the torque measurement you had at the start, your done.

Goo
- Original Message - 
From: Dave Corgill [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 2:24 AM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.


 At 07:13 PM 08/22/2003 -0700, you wrote:
 This is Steve.OK...what do you mean when you mentioned the preload on
 the pinion?  I have a Sears impact gun, just like the one my dad uses on
 his tractor and trailer, so that sheould be OK.  I have the rear jacked
up
 (using ramps on the back side and blocking the front) and am in the
 process of cleaning the gunk off the housingGee, the rear is only 3/4
 of the size it was dirty ;-)
 I haven't taken anything apart yetI'm waiting for it to cool down
some
 (still over 100 degrees outside) before I unhook the driveshaft from the
 rear yoke (going to tape up the universal in the process and probably
 replace anyway) and then figure out the yoke.  I only have simple tools
 and a seal pullersomewhere.  I wiggled the driveshaft/yoke pretty
hard
 in all directions and there was no play.  I will try the yoke again after
 I unhook the driveshaft.  How do I remove the Yoke with this
 preload?  Is it pressed on too?
 
 Thanks for all the responses,
 Steve

 1 remove driveshaft from yoke

 2 take a sharp chisel and hammer, and make a good mark on the pinion and
the
 pinion nut. So you know how they line up.  Turn the pinion by hand
 and check for slop.  You will need to know what it feels like
 for step 7 and up.

 3 remove the nut (I use an impact wrench so it's easy to hold)

 4 gently tap the yoke away from the axle.  Do not hammer the pinion in!
You
 could damage it or the bearings.

 5(optional) I suggest you replace the pinion seal while you have it apart
 because they tend to leak often. They are just cheap insurance.  Make sure
 you put some oil on the lip for lubrication.

 6 work the new yoke on to the pinion until you can get the nut started.
 Some people (mostly who sell the parts) say you should get a new
nut
 because it's a lock nut that works the best only once.  I
 usuallyreuse the old one.  In either case, make sure you use RED
 threadlocker, not blue, because it's stronger.

 7 Take note of how easy it is to spin the yoke by hand, and how much slop
 (usually only a little bit) there is in the bearings.  Slowly tighten
up
 the nut until you hit the mark you made in step 2.

 8 If there is still slop and no change in the ease of turning, tighten one
 width of the chisel mark past.

 9 If there is still no change, make one full turn back to the mark and one
 chisel mark width past.

 repeat step 9 until the slop is gone and it gets harder to turn again like
 it did in step 2.

 IMPORTANT!  If you go too far, DO NOT LOOSEN.  If you have gone a lot too
 far, (more than 1/8 turn) you will have to remove the axles, carrier, and
 pinion to replace the crush sleeve.  This should only be done by
experienced
 axle people because several measurements must be made to determine the
 rotating torque and nut position, etc.

 10 put the driveshaft back on

 It should be fairly easy to tell when you have gone enough turns to take
up
 the slop.  It will be cut and dry either slop or no slop.  All the play
will
 be taken up in the last 1/16th of a turn on the last revolution of the
nut,
 so it is hard to be off by a whole turn.  After you do this once, you will
 get a better feel for it.


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RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

Thanks everybody,
I marked the nut and the end of the pinion shaft and removed the nut.  The
yoke assembly came of relatively easy with just a little wiggling.  I
started to work around the old seal to get it off and wiggled the pinion
shaft a little out of curiosity.  It wiggled about a 1/4 inch in all
directions.  I thought that it probably shouldn't wiggle at all because of
the bearings still inside the rear.  Do I have problems here?  I looked at
the inside of the yoke assembly that I removed and noticed that there was a
thin groove cut around the diameter of the rearmost cylinder in the yoke
assembly (in from the spline section that mates to the matching grooves in
the pinion.  I have a bad feeling this thing might need bearings or
something worse.  Should there be play on the pinion shaft when the yoke is
removed?  I don't think it wiggled at all when the yoke was still bolted on.
Steve

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Trooper
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 6:09 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.


I know I'm coming into this late and you may already have the job done. I
agree with Dave's method of seal replacement. The only thing he forgot is,
before you put the washer and nut back on, fill the area under the washer
(around the pinion and yoke interface) with RTV to seal it. Otherwise you
will have a little leak there. You don't need to measure backlash. This is
controlled by the pinion and carrier shims which you will not be touching.
The only thing you need to worry about is getting the correct preload. If
you line your marks up you will be very close. If you want to get more
technical. Get a inch pound torque wrench and place it on the pinion nut
prior to disassembly and turn the pinion. measure the resistance in inch
pounds. Do the removal and repair and put the nut back on. As you tighten
the nut check the preload with the torque wrench often. When you get back to
the torque measurement you had at the start, your done.

Goo
- Original Message -
From: Dave Corgill [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 2:24 AM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.


 At 07:13 PM 08/22/2003 -0700, you wrote:
 This is Steve.OK...what do you mean when you mentioned the preload on
 the pinion?  I have a Sears impact gun, just like the one my dad uses on
 his tractor and trailer, so that sheould be OK.  I have the rear jacked
up
 (using ramps on the back side and blocking the front) and am in the
 process of cleaning the gunk off the housingGee, the rear is only 3/4
 of the size it was dirty ;-)
 I haven't taken anything apart yetI'm waiting for it to cool down
some
 (still over 100 degrees outside) before I unhook the driveshaft from the
 rear yoke (going to tape up the universal in the process and probably
 replace anyway) and then figure out the yoke.  I only have simple tools
 and a seal pullersomewhere.  I wiggled the driveshaft/yoke pretty
hard
 in all directions and there was no play.  I will try the yoke again after
 I unhook the driveshaft.  How do I remove the Yoke with this
 preload?  Is it pressed on too?
 
 Thanks for all the responses,
 Steve

 1 remove driveshaft from yoke

 2 take a sharp chisel and hammer, and make a good mark on the pinion and
the
 pinion nut. So you know how they line up.  Turn the pinion by hand
 and check for slop.  You will need to know what it feels like
 for step 7 and up.

 3 remove the nut (I use an impact wrench so it's easy to hold)

 4 gently tap the yoke away from the axle.  Do not hammer the pinion in!
You
 could damage it or the bearings.

 5(optional) I suggest you replace the pinion seal while you have it apart
 because they tend to leak often. They are just cheap insurance.  Make sure
 you put some oil on the lip for lubrication.

 6 work the new yoke on to the pinion until you can get the nut started.
 Some people (mostly who sell the parts) say you should get a new
nut
 because it's a lock nut that works the best only once.  I
 usuallyreuse the old one.  In either case, make sure you use RED
 threadlocker, not blue, because it's stronger.

 7 Take note of how easy it is to spin the yoke by hand, and how much slop
 (usually only a little bit) there is in the bearings.  Slowly tighten
up
 the nut until you hit the mark you made in step 2.

 8 If there is still slop and no change in the ease of turning, tighten one
 width of the chisel mark past.

 9 If there is still no change, make one full turn back to the mark and one
 chisel mark width past.

 repeat step 9 until the slop is gone and it gets harder to turn again like
 it did in step 2.

 IMPORTANT!  If you go too far, DO NOT LOOSEN.  If you have gone a lot too
 far, (more than 1/8 turn) you will have to remove the axles, carrier, and
 pinion to replace the crush

RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.


I've been thinking too.  The rear never leaked before that I can remember.
Now all of a sudden it has just purged all over my garage floor?  I think
that the bearings may be failing at the pinion allowing it to wobble while
driving.  This movement would definitely egg-shape the seal and cause the
groove around the inner diameter of the rear side of the yoke.  If I just
replace the seal, it might only last one or two short trips before failing
also.  Then I'm back to square 1.  I don't think that the bearing exchange
is a novice operation, is it?
Steve



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RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

I'm taking pictures of everything as I go with the digital camera.  I can
send pictures if anyone wants to see what I am trying to explain.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stephen Lentz
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 3:01 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

I've been thinking too.  The rear never leaked before that I can remember.
Now all of a sudden it has just purged all over my garage floor?  I think
that the bearings may be failing at the pinion allowing it to wobble while
driving.  This movement would definitely egg-shape the seal and cause the
groove around the inner diameter of the rear side of the yoke.  If I just
replace the seal, it might only last one or two short trips before failing
also.  Then I'm back to square 1.  I don't think that the bearing exchange
is a novice operation, is it?
Steve

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Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

2003-08-24 Thread Mike Holleman

Steve, It has tapered bearings. Once you removed the yoke, it will move as
the bearings are no longer seated. The wear you are describing on the yoke
may be a problem. Depending on how much of a groove you have. You may want
to show this to a mechanic and ask for an opinion on possible replacement.
Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: Stephen Lentz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 5:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

 Thanks everybody,
 I marked the nut and the end of the pinion shaft and removed the nut.  The
 yoke assembly came of relatively easy with just a little wiggling.  I
 started to work around the old seal to get it off and wiggled the pinion
 shaft a little out of curiosity.  It wiggled about a 1/4 inch in all
 directions.  I thought that it probably shouldn't wiggle at all because of
 the bearings still inside the rear.  Do I have problems here?  I looked at
 the inside of the yoke assembly that I removed and noticed that there was
a
 thin groove cut around the diameter of the rearmost cylinder in the yoke
 assembly (in from the spline section that mates to the matching grooves in
 the pinion.  I have a bad feeling this thing might need bearings or
 something worse.  Should there be play on the pinion shaft when the yoke
is
 removed?  I don't think it wiggled at all when the yoke was still bolted
on.
 Steve

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Trooper
 Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 6:09 AM
 To: The Chevelle Mailing List
 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

 I know I'm coming into this late and you may already have the job done. I
 agree with Dave's method of seal replacement. The only thing he forgot is,
 before you put the washer and nut back on, fill the area under the washer
 (around the pinion and yoke interface) with RTV to seal it. Otherwise you
 will have a little leak there. You don't need to measure backlash. This is
 controlled by the pinion and carrier shims which you will not be touching.
 The only thing you need to worry about is getting the correct preload. If
 you line your marks up you will be very close. If you want to get more
 technical. Get a inch pound torque wrench and place it on the pinion nut
 prior to disassembly and turn the pinion. measure the resistance in inch
 pounds. Do the removal and repair and put the nut back on. As you tighten
 the nut check the preload with the torque wrench often. When you get back
to
 the torque measurement you had at the start, your done.

 Goo
 - Original Message -
 From: Dave Corgill [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 2:24 AM
 Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

  At 07:13 PM 08/22/2003 -0700, you wrote:
  This is Steve.OK...what do you mean when you mentioned the preload
on
  the pinion?  I have a Sears impact gun, just like the one my dad uses
on
  his tractor and trailer, so that sheould be OK.  I have the rear jacked
 up
  (using ramps on the back side and blocking the front) and am in the
  process of cleaning the gunk off the housingGee, the rear is only
3/4
  of the size it was dirty ;-)
  I haven't taken anything apart yetI'm waiting for it to cool down
 some
  (still over 100 degrees outside) before I unhook the driveshaft from
the
  rear yoke (going to tape up the universal in the process and probably
  replace anyway) and then figure out the yoke.  I only have simple tools
  and a seal pullersomewhere.  I wiggled the driveshaft/yoke pretty
 hard
  in all directions and there was no play.  I will try the yoke again
after
  I unhook the driveshaft.  How do I remove the Yoke with this
  preload?  Is it pressed on too?

  Thanks for all the responses,
  Steve

  1 remove driveshaft from yoke

  2 take a sharp chisel and hammer, and make a good mark on the pinion and
 the
  pinion nut. So you know how they line up.  Turn the pinion by
hand
  and check for slop.  You will need to know what it feels
like
  for step 7 and up.

  3 remove the nut (I use an impact wrench so it's easy to hold)

  4 gently tap the yoke away from the axle.  Do not hammer the pinion in!
 You
  could damage it or the bearings.

  5(optional) I suggest you replace the pinion seal while you have it
apart
  because they tend to leak often. They are just cheap insurance.  Make
sure
  you put some oil on the lip for lubrication.

  6 work the new yoke on to the pinion until you can get the nut started.
  Some people (mostly who sell the parts) say you should get a new
 nut
  because it's a lock nut that works the best only once.  I
  usuallyreuse the old one.  In either case, make sure you use RED
  threadlocker, not blue, because it's stronger.

  7 Take note of how easy it is to spin the yoke by hand, and how much
slop

Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

2003-08-24 Thread Mike Holleman

Steve, Put the seal in and give it a try. You do not want to do a complete
disassembly which is where you would be going to replace bearings. If you
cannot stop the leak with a new seal and or a new yoke, go to a pro.
Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Stephen Lentz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 6:00 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

 I've been thinking too.  The rear never leaked before that I can remember.
 Now all of a sudden it has just purged all over my garage floor?  I think
 that the bearings may be failing at the pinion allowing it to wobble while
 driving.  This movement would definitely egg-shape the seal and cause the
 groove around the inner diameter of the rear side of the yoke.  If I just
 replace the seal, it might only last one or two short trips before failing
 also.  Then I'm back to square 1.  I don't think that the bearing exchange
 is a novice operation, is it?
 Steve

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RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.

2003-08-23 Thread Dave Corgill

At 07:13 PM 08/22/2003 -0700, you wrote:
This is Steve.OK...what do you mean when you mentioned the preload on 
the pinion?  I have a Sears impact gun, just like the one my dad uses on 
his tractor and trailer, so that sheould be OK.  I have the rear jacked up 
(using ramps on the back side and blocking the front) and am in the 
process of cleaning the gunk off the housingGee, the rear is only 3/4 
of the size it was dirty ;-)
I haven't taken anything apart yetI'm waiting for it to cool down some 
(still over 100 degrees outside) before I unhook the driveshaft from the 
rear yoke (going to tape up the universal in the process and probably 
replace anyway) and then figure out the yoke.  I only have simple tools 
and a seal pullersomewhere.  I wiggled the driveshaft/yoke pretty hard 
in all directions and there was no play.  I will try the yoke again after 
I unhook the driveshaft.  How do I remove the Yoke with this 
preload?  Is it pressed on too?

Thanks for all the responses,
Steve
1 remove driveshaft from yoke

2 take a sharp chisel and hammer, and make a good mark on the pinion and the
pinion nut. So you know how they line up.  Turn the pinion by hand
and check for slop.  You will need to know what it feels like
for step 7 and up.
3 remove the nut (I use an impact wrench so it's easy to hold)

4 gently tap the yoke away from the axle.  Do not hammer the pinion in!  You
could damage it or the bearings.
5(optional) I suggest you replace the pinion seal while you have it apart
because they tend to leak often. They are just cheap insurance.  Make sure
you put some oil on the lip for lubrication.
6 work the new yoke on to the pinion until you can get the nut started.
Some people (mostly who sell the parts) say you should get a new nut
because it's a lock nut that works the best only once.  I
usuallyreuse the old one.  In either case, make sure you use RED
threadlocker, not blue, because it's stronger.
7 Take note of how easy it is to spin the yoke by hand, and how much slop
(usually only a little bit) there is in the bearings.  Slowly tighten up
the nut until you hit the mark you made in step 2.
8 If there is still slop and no change in the ease of turning, tighten one
width of the chisel mark past.
9 If there is still no change, make one full turn back to the mark and one
chisel mark width past.
repeat step 9 until the slop is gone and it gets harder to turn again like
it did in step 2.
IMPORTANT!  If you go too far, DO NOT LOOSEN.  If you have gone a lot too
far, (more than 1/8 turn) you will have to remove the axles, carrier, and
pinion to replace the crush sleeve.  This should only be done by experienced
axle people because several measurements must be made to determine the
rotating torque and nut position, etc.
10 put the driveshaft back on

It should be fairly easy to tell when you have gone enough turns to take up
the slop.  It will be cut and dry either slop or no slop.  All the play will
be taken up in the last 1/16th of a turn on the last revolution of the nut,
so it is hard to be off by a whole turn.  After you do this once, you will
get a better feel for it.
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[Chevelle-list] rear end problem

Hey guys and gals, I could use some help.
I keep my Chevelle parked in the garage.  The floor of the garage is painted
so I keep it very clean.  For the past few months, I have been cleaning up
small fluid puddles every time the car sits for a while without moving.
Well, there is a huge puddle under the rear of my car.  It is so big, it
actually ran out from underneath the car by the driver's door.  Since the
floor was clean, I was able to see the center of the puddle which is
centered just in front of the rear end pumpkin about 1 or 2 inches.  I'm a
little scared because I was hoping it was just loose rear end cover bolts,
but it looks like it is leaking from the front of the rear.  I would assume
there is a seal in the front of the rear.  What kind of operation am I
looking at and am I over my head here?  I have never messed with the rear
end of a car before, but I know that things need to be put together right or
it will lock up later.

Any suggestions?
Steve



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Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem

Steve, 

Sounds like you have a bad pinion seal. If you have never taken a rear apart before, I suggest you let someone that knows what they are doing fix it. Getting that yoke off can be a pain in the rear [pun intended :-)].

Tom
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Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem

2003-08-22 Thread Mike Holleman

Stephen, It's not a major deal. Sounds like a front seal failure. Hopefully
it does not indicate a bearing failure as well. Get under the car and see if
there is any side to side play in the pinion shaft. Attempt to push and pull
the shaft to check this. If none is obvious I would acquire a new seal,
Remove the driveshaft, remove the nut holding the yoke on the shaft and pry
it off. You should now be able to slip the yoke off and the seal will then
be available to be pryed out. Tap the new seal in place and reverse the
process. Hopefully it will be this simple, and the seal is the only bad part
you have.
Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: Stephen Lentz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 7:19 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem


 Hey guys and gals, I could use some help.
 I keep my Chevelle parked in the garage.  The floor of the garage is
painted
 so I keep it very clean.  For the past few months, I have been cleaning up
 small fluid puddles every time the car sits for a while without moving.
 Well, there is a huge puddle under the rear of my car.  It is so big, it
 actually ran out from underneath the car by the driver's door.  Since the
 floor was clean, I was able to see the center of the puddle which is
 centered just in front of the rear end pumpkin about 1 or 2 inches.  I'm a
 little scared because I was hoping it was just loose rear end cover bolts,
 but it looks like it is leaking from the front of the rear.  I would
assume
 there is a seal in the front of the rear.  What kind of operation am I
 looking at and am I over my head here?  I have never messed with the rear
 end of a car before, but I know that things need to be put together right
or
 it will lock up later.

 Any suggestions?
 Steve



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Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem

Don't forget about the preload on the pinion when you take the yoke nut off. You can't pry on the yoke itself or you will damage it and throw it off balance resulting in a vibration. A big impact gun is also required for this job.

Tom
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RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem




This 
is Steve.OK...what do you mean when youmentioned the preload on the 
pinion? I have a Sears impact gun, just like the one my dad uses on his 
tractor and trailer, so that sheould be OK. I have the rear jacked up 
(using ramps on the back side and blocking the front) and am in the process of 
cleaning the gunk off the housingGee, the rear is only 3/4 of the size it 
was dirty ;-)
I 
haven't taken anything apart yetI'm waiting for it to cool down some (still 
over 100 degrees outside) before I unhook the driveshaft from the rear yoke 
(going totape up the universal in the process and probably replace anyway) 
and then figure out the yoke. I only have simple tools and a seal 
pullersomewhere. I wiggled the driveshaft/yoke pretty hard in all 
directions and there was no play. I will try the yoke again after I unhook 
the driveshaft. How do I remove the Yoke with this "preload"? Is it 
pressed on too?

Thanks 
for all the responses,
Steve

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 6:52 
  PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] rear end problemDon't forget about the preload on the pinion when you 
  take the yoke nut off. You can't pry on the yoke itself or you will 
  damage it and throw it off balance resulting in a vibration. A big 
  impact gun is also required for this job.Tom 

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Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem

Steve,

The preload is set using the torque of the nut holding the yoke in place. To get the yoke off, leave the nut on so that it is flush with the end of the pinion shaft. Then grab a hold of the yoke with one hand and tap the nut/pinion with a hammer until the yoke pops off, just make sure you do not miss and hit the yoke. Pull the cover off and let all the oil drain out of it otherwise you make take a bath in it when you go to pull the pinion seal off.
When you are done putting the seal back on, slip the yoke on and put the nut on. When you go to to use the impact gun on thenut, I suggest using a very large pair of pliers to hold the yoke. If you go to use your hand to hold it, you'll break your wrist. Keep tightening that nut until there is no play in it. You should actually have a dial indicator to measure the backlash before and after you do this just to make sure everything is in place.

Tom

Tom
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RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem




I will 
need to purchase a dial indicator. If it doesn't come with instructions 
(like most tools), how do I measure the backlash. Additionally, how do I 
change the readings- adjust the backlashif the end result does not equal 
the initial backlash? On a side note, will I need to remove the 12 bolt 
cover in back for any reason? Bear with meyour instructions will 
probably seem more simple after I get a good look at the nut and pinion. 
I'm not going to take the driveshaft down until after dinner. I'm still 
cleaning the mess away. Thanks for your help. Have you done many of 
these? Sounds like you have been down this road once or 
twice.
Steve

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 7:35 
  PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] rear end problemSteve,The preload is set using the torque of the 
  nut holding the yoke in place. To get the yoke off, leave the nut on so 
  that it is flush with the end of the pinion shaft. Then grab a hold of 
  the yoke with one hand and tap the nut/pinion with a hammer until the yoke 
  pops off, just make sure you do not miss and hit the yoke. Pull the 
  cover off and let all the oil drain out of it otherwise you make take a bath 
  in it when you go to pull the pinion seal off.When you are done putting 
  the seal back on, slip the yoke on and put the nut on. When you go to to 
  use the impact gun on thenut, I suggest using a very large pair of pliers to 
  hold the yoke. If you go to use your hand to hold it, you'll break your 
  wrist. Keep tightening that nut until there is no play in it. You 
  should actually have a dial indicator to measure the backlash before and after 
  you do this just to make sure everything is in 
  place.TomTom 
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Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem

In a message dated 8/22/2003 10:49:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

will need to purchase a dial indicator. If it doesn't come with instructions (like most tools), how do I measure the backlash. Additionally, how do I change the readings- adjust the backlash if the end result does not equal the initial backlash? On a side note, will I need to remove the 12 bolt cover in back for any reason? Bear with meyour instructions will probably seem more simple after I get a good look at the nut and pinion. I'm not going to take the driveshaft down until after dinner. I'm still cleaning the mess away. Thanks for your help. Have you done many of these? Sounds like you have been down this road once or twice.
Steve

I've done a few rears. I would pull the back cover off to drain the oil, put a new gasket on it, and put some fresh 90 weight in it. The dial indicator will come with directions. It's very difficult to explain how to set it up and measure it without physically showing you, so just read the directions carefully.
You will not have to do anything internally to the rear. If all goes as it should and you crank on the yoke nut, you won't need to do any adjusting.
The backlash is controlled by 2 factors, the postion of the differential itself, and the depth of the pinion. There are shims inside on the pinion between the inner bearing and the pinion head which you won't even see. There is also a crush collar in there, another thing you won't see,which takes up the slack so there is no play in the pinion.
As long as there is no play in it when you are done, it will be just where it was before you started the job.

Good luck,

Tom
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RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem