Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34
Mark: If your oil filter screws into the side of the engine, here's what I do when removing the old one.Take a newspaper and place it so that the top of the paper is directly under the oil filter and fold it a little until the bottom of the paper has been placed in a container (1 quart ice cream works great)..at about a 45 deg. angle. The idea is that as you unscrew the oil filter, the oil will drop to the paper and run directly into the plastic container and not all over the engine and engine compartment. When you have removed the filter from the engine, slide it down the paper as well to the container. Dump oil from the filter into the container and then the old oil to your larger recycle oil container. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2012/11/14 5:44 PM, Mark Meyer wrote: Robert and Jonathon, and all, Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when doing oil changes on the 34? Mark ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List winterizing the engine
Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 I've seen advice like this a couple of times. Be very careful about hooking an land pressure water hose to your raw water system. As a matter of fact, don't do it. You can end up filling the exhaust manifold and the cylinders with water, which unsurprisingly, is bad for the engine. Far better to remove the raw water intake and put it in a bucket and let the water pump draw water at the required rate. Andrew Burton Newport, RI http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:05 PM, johnr...@aol.com wrote: Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect hose to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and run the engine quite merrily in minutes. Cheers, John Falcon -- CC 29-2 -Original Message- From: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 Robert and Jonathon, and all, Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when doing oil changes on the 34? Mark From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 Mark: If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of hardware to do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and a 10' foot piece of the hose the same diameter as the hose that attaches to your raw water pump. Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the 10' piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket in the cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start your engine and let it run until the engine reaches normal operating temp..keep the water level in the bucket so you are not sucking in air. Shut engine down.change the oil and filter. Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your engine and run until you see antifreeze exiting from your exhaust.shut engine down. Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before launch to retrieve the antifreeze in the engine. Some disconnect it and reconnect the raw water hose. Hope this helps. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote: Hi List, Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this spring and did a lot to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late winterizing the Diesel engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through getting this engine done. Any Advice? Thanks in advance, Mark Meyer SV Freedom, Whitehall MI ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20121115/aaea822f/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 7 Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2012 09:59:48 -0400 From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 Message-ID: 50a4f554.6070...@eastlink.ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; Format=flowed Mark: If your oil filter screws into the side of the engine, here's what I do when removing the old one.Take a newspaper and place it so that the top of the paper is directly under the oil filter and fold it a little until the bottom of the paper has been placed in a container (1 quart ice cream works great)..at about a 45 deg. angle. The idea is that as you unscrew the oil filter, the oil will drop to the paper and run directly
Stus-List Boat Names
. However, it still makes it easy to do the bucket thing, as well. -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 6:11 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 I've seen advice like this a couple of times. Be very careful about hooking an land pressure water hose to your raw water system. As a matter of fact, don't do it. You can end up filling the exhaust manifold and the cylinders with water, which unsurprisingly, is bad for the engine. Far better to remove the raw water intake and put it in a bucket and let the water pump draw water at the required rate. Andrew Burton Newport, RI http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:05 PM, johnr...@aol.com wrote: Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect hose to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and run the engine quite merrily in minutes. Cheers, John Falcon -- CC 29-2 -Original Message- From: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 Robert and Jonathon, and all, Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when doing oil changes on the 34? Mark From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 Mark: If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of hardware to do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and a 10' foot piece of the hose the same diameter as the hose that attaches to your raw water pump. Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the 10' piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket in the cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start your engine and let it run until the engine reaches normal operating temp..keep the water level in the bucket so you are not sucking in air. Shut engine down.change the oil and filter. Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your engine and run until you see antifreeze exiting from your exhaust.shut engine down. Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before launch to retrieve the antifreeze in the engine. Some disconnect it and reconnect the raw water hose. Hope this helps. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote: Hi List, Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this spring and did a lot to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late winterizing the Diesel engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through getting this engine done. Any Advice? Thanks in advance, Mark Meyer SV Freedom, Whitehall MI ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20121115/aaea822f/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 7 Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2012 09:59:48 -0400 From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 Message-ID: 50a4f554.6070...@eastlink.ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; Format=flowed Mark: If your oil filter screws into the side of the engine, here's what I do when removing the old one.Take a newspaper and place it so that the top of the paper is directly under the oil filter
Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
Alex, Go sailing already! :). The access panels are vinyl over plywood (matches the rest of the headliner) and the long ones are screwed, the smaller ones use velcro. I'm going to try removing the vinyl and reusing it over either plastic or new wood to maintain the original look. When that fails, I'll go to Plan B. 3M makes a spray, Super 77, that works great! I used it for a cockpit cushion and pedestal cover. Joel 35/3 On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 10:31 AM, Alex Giannelia a...@airsensing.com wrote: Now you have my interest, as my 35-II had plastic panels in various shapes screwed directly into the headliner. These are suffering from old age and are yellowing etc and in 2 cases are cracked and now that my deck work is done, I am proposing to replace them all, so are you saying in the 35-III These are normally plywood glued and/or velcroed in place? Does anyone on this list with a 35-II have what I described? Dwight what do you have? BTW, these only apply to original equipment deck installs. In some areas where the P.O. or I put in newer hardware, we had to go through the core and I ended up using SS backing plates I polished and fastened with cap nuts. Just polling the list. ALEX GIANNELIA CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006 Toronto Ontario ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
Alex I had the old white plastic also...it was yellowed as well...I replaced it with the solid white Plexiglas, and I used 1/8 inch thick...if I ever do it again I would try 1/4 inch thick because the 1/8 inch thick has warped between some fasteners or I might check a sheet of Formica as someone on the list suggested the other day or that white FRP stuff that Rich Knowles advised about but I am not sure where to get it, I expect that Rich will help me with that when I need it...I checked out Formica when I did the replacement every piece I saw had a black subsurface which showed a black edge when cut. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia Sent: November 15, 2012 11:31 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels Now you have my interest, as my 35-II had plastic panels in various shapes screwed directly into the headliner. These are suffering from old age and are yellowing etc and in 2 cases are cracked and now that my deck work is done, I am proposing to replace them all, so are you saying in the 35-III These are normally plywood glued and/or velcroed in place? Does anyone on this list with a 35-II have what I described? Dwight what do you have? BTW, these only apply to original equipment deck installs. In some areas where the P.O. or I put in newer hardware, we had to go through the core and I ended up using SS backing plates I polished and fastened with cap nuts. Just polling the list. ALEX GIANNELIA CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006 Toronto Ontario ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5396 - Release Date: 11/15/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
Home Depot sells the FRP panels with a textured surface. They are gloss white, so they would brighten the salon! On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 10:56 AM, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote: Alex I had the old white plastic also...it was yellowed as well...I replaced it with the solid white Plexiglas, and I used 1/8 inch thick...if I ever do it again I would try 1/4 inch thick because the 1/8 inch thick has warped between some fasteners or I might check a sheet of Formica as someone on the list suggested the other day or that white FRP stuff that Rich Knowles advised about but I am not sure where to get it, I expect that Rich will help me with that when I need it...I checked out Formica when I did the replacement every piece I saw had a black subsurface which showed a black edge when cut. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia Sent: November 15, 2012 11:31 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels Now you have my interest, as my 35-II had plastic panels in various shapes screwed directly into the headliner. These are suffering from old age and are yellowing etc and in 2 cases are cracked and now that my deck work is done, I am proposing to replace them all, so are you saying in the 35-III These are normally plywood glued and/or velcroed in place? Does anyone on this list with a 35-II have what I described? Dwight what do you have? BTW, these only apply to original equipment deck installs. In some areas where the P.O. or I put in newer hardware, we had to go through the core and I ended up using SS backing plates I polished and fastened with cap nuts. Just polling the list. ALEX GIANNELIA CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006 Toronto Ontario ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5396 - Release Date: 11/15/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34
My understanding was that if the water flows from the hose at a greater rate than it can be pushed by the exhaust gas from the muffler to the thru hull then water will accumulate between the muffler and the mixing elbow. Eventually it will overflow on the wrong side of the mixing elbow into the cylinder... leading to catastrophic consequences. Now this is all theoretical knowledge I got from books and forums. The concern is valid. I was delivery skipper moving a boat from Hawaii to Seattle. The boat had been mostly located in Tonga with trips to New Zealand. The maintenance had been poor for some time. Several days out of Honolulu sea water backed up the exhaust hose (mounting clamps had failed allowing the hose to fall below the water line) flooding the water lift, elbow, exhaust manifold, then the cylinders. As the sea water blocked the exhaust the engine sputtered and died. As we attempted to re-start (we thought it was water in the fuel as this was common) the sound of failure was a solid thunk. (Water locked cylinders) In short, we dried the engine, jury rigged broken valve springs with bungee cord donuts (provided enough pressure to mostly close the valve) and was able to re-start the engine enough to charge batteries, pull down the freezer, and motor slowly. Moral of the story: Prevent cooling or exhaust water from backing up into the engine. Shut the raw water inlet if the engine will be cranked over without starting. Inspect the exhaust hose routing and fasteners prior to leaving Hawaii. Martin Calypso 1970 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sébastien Lemieux Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 5:35 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 My understanding was that if the water flows from the hose at a greater rate than it can be pushed by the exhaust gas from the muffler to the thruhull then water will accumulate between the muffler and the mixing elbow. Eventually it will overflow on the wrong side of the mixing elbow into the cylinder... leading to catastrophic consequences. If my understanding is correct, the situation would be the same for a fresh or raw water cooled engine. I think it is just much easier to rely on the raw water pump to determine the water flow using the bucket trick. I need the bucket setup in any case for feeding antifreeze, so I simply put the hose in the bucket for running the engine. Now this is all theoretical knowledge I got from books and forums. When I changed my impeller this fall, I noticed that the little chambers formed by the vanes never overlap both the input and output openings at the same time. This implies that the fresh water pump will limit the flow of water pushed into the engine, no matter the flow of water that the hose is set to deliver... Unless the hose pressure is high enough to bypass the vanes. Or if the y-valve is installed after the raw water pump (which would be a very bad idea since the pump would run dry). Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - CC 30 mk2 1987 Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34
Bill, I'd like to see that picture, too, please. Andy On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 2:32 PM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote: I solved this problem for my former Perkins 4-107 with an adapter, available at most auto parts stores. You screw it onto where the filter was, have a couple hydraulic hoses made up, and mount the new filter housing onto the back top of the block. With it facing down, of course. I will send you a picture off list. ** ** Bill Coleman CC 39 [image: animated_favicon1] ** ** *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Martin DeYoung *Sent:* Thursday, November 15, 2012 1:09 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 ** ** Calypso has a Perkins 4-108 with the oil filter side mounted, upside down. ** ** I poke a hole in the bottom to drain the filter into a small container prior to removing the filter. A vent hole in the top helps the process.** ** ** ** It would be great to meet the design engineer and ask; What the H*#!L were you thinking? ** ** Martin Calypso 1970 CC 43 Seattle -- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Marek Dziedzic *Sent:* Wednesday, November 14, 2012 6:47 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 ** ** I haven’t tried it myself, but I read many times in various forums about making a hole on top of the oil filter with a screwdriver to drain the oil from it. Might be worth a try. Marek (s/v Fennel) in Ottawa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 image001.gif___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34
yes please - Original Message - From: Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 2:58:46 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34 Me, three. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Nov 15, 2012, at 1:34 PM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com wrote: Bill, I'd like to see that picture, too, please. Andy On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 2:32 PM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote: blockquote I solved this problem for my former Perkins 4-107 with an adapter, available at most auto parts stores. You screw it onto where the filter was, have a couple hydraulic hoses made up, and mount the new filter housing onto the back top of the block. With it facing down, of course. I will send you a picture off list. /blockquote ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CNCphotalbum classifieds
I just checked the Classified Ads and the link works properly. Try this direct link: http://cncpa.comoj.com/class_ads/ and it should work. If you are directed to another site, please let me know so I can try to track down the problem. Stu From: Pat Nevitt Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 5:21 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CNCphotalbum classifieds Anyone else have problems getting the classifieds section to open? I get a blocker telling me I can't access it because the site contains adult material. I had the IT guys look at it and the link to the classifieds takes you to a different web address than all the rest of the links on the site. Pat Nevitt Patriot CC 29 MKII Galesville, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2624/5890 - Release Date: 11/12/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CNCphotalbum classifieds
So it's not due to the naked foredeck cow photos? :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Nov 15, 2012, at 4:27 PM, Stu s...@cncphotoalbum.com wrote: I just checked the Classified Ads and the link works properly. Try this direct link: http://cncpa.comoj.com/class_ads/ and it should work. If you are directed to another site, please let me know so I can try to track down the problem. Stu ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CNCphotalbum classifieds
Yep, that's the one. For some reason the content police that does the monitoring for the company where I work have blocked it. Our IT guys requested that the site be allowed as it obviously does not contain offensive material. The content police have said no. Oh well. On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 5:27 PM, Stu s...@cncphotoalbum.com wrote: I just checked the Classified Ads and the link works properly. Try this direct link: http://cncpa.comoj.com/class_ads/ and it should work. If you are directed to another site, please let me know so I can try to track down the problem. Stu *From:* Pat Nevitt pnev...@gmail.com *Sent:* Thursday, November 15, 2012 5:21 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List CNCphotalbum classifieds Anyone else have problems getting the classifieds section to open? I get a blocker telling me I can't access it because the site contains adult material. I had the IT guys look at it and the link to the classifieds takes you to a different web address than all the rest of the links on the site. Pat Nevitt *Patriot* CC 29 MKII Galesville, MD -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2624/5890 - Release Date: 11/12/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CNCphotalbum classifieds
Things are looking up!! Stu, you gone to the shady side? Next we'll have nekkid boat pix. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2012-11-15, at 18:21, Pat Nevitt pnev...@gmail.com wrote: Anyone else have problems getting the classifieds section to open? I get a blocker telling me I can't access it because the site contains adult material. I had the IT guys look at it and the link to the classifieds takes you to a different web address than all the rest of the links on the site. Pat Nevitt Patriot CC 29 MKII Galesville, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
That looks a lot like the fiberglass wall panels available at Home Depot. I've used that for several headliner panels and it works well. It is 1/8 thick and will warp slightly. I used it for the longer panels on the starboard side. You really can see it and it holds paint well. Since it's fiberglass, no worries about it warping. Jake Jake Brodersen CC 35 Mk-III Midnight Mistress Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich CC Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 3:28 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels Here's some other stuff I have used for lining commercial garages that looks very nice and is friendly to use: http://www.palramamericas.com/Wall-Tuf Rich Rich Knowles INDIGO - LF38 Halifax, NS ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
Just don't use white pebble board, PLEASE!!! Will make your boat look like a restroom at a Waffle House. I did use pebble board once on a boat for the decking on a quarterberth. Figured it would breathe moisture out better than a smooth board. It had a vinyl bottom cushion on top of it so it didn't show. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA From: Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 8:20 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels That looks a lot like the fiberglass wall panels available at Home Depot. I’ve used that for several headliner panels and it works well. It is 1/8” thick and will warp slightly. I used it for the longer panels on the starboard side. You really can see it and it holds paint well. Since it’s fiberglass, no worries about it warping. Jake Jake Brodersen CC 35 Mk-III Midnight Mistress Hampton VA From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich CC Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 3:28 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels Here’s some other stuff I have used for lining commercial garages that looks very nice and is friendly to use: http://www.palramamericas.com/Wall-Tuf Rich Rich Knowles INDIGO - LF38 Halifax, NS ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
