Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[hhallgring]

Thanks David,

I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/

Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a little 
more sanding...clean up...watch Patriots.


Harry
MIRAGE

On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote:

 Harry,

So very impressed...keep it up.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Stus-List me and 5200

[LKL Architects]

LkL
 

Several weeks ago I posted regarding trying to lift a leaking deck hatch that 
would not budge.  5200 was mentioned as the probable culprit. Started by using 
a dacron fishing line and brush cleaner as a solvent on a corner to break the 
bond. Then took a very thin 1 inch wide putty knife after dipping into the 
brush cleaner was able to work under and around all the edges.  Took about an 
hour and a half for this 8 x 12 hatch but saved the gel coat.  Hope this might 
help others facing the same challenge.  BTW have since learned there is a 
product called Anti-Bond that specifically refers to using with 5200.



Lloyd Lippe

Finesse

LF 39

 

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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[Andrew Burton]

Harry, where are you doing the work?

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, hhallgr...@cox.net wrote:

> Thanks David,
> 
> I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr.
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/
> 
> Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a little more 
> sanding...clean up...watch Patriots.
> 
> Harry
> MIRAGE
> 
> 
> On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote:
> 
>  Harry,
> 
> So very impressed...keep it up.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
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Re: Stus-List me and 5200

[Andrew Burton]

Heat works, too. Heat the putty knife and slide it along until it cools then 
reheat it. It doesn't have to be red hot to work.

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:42 AM, "LKL Architects"  wrote:

>  
>  
> Several weeks ago I posted regarding trying to lift a leaking deck hatch that 
> would not budge.  5200 was mentioned as the probable culprit. Started by 
> using a dacron fishing line and brush cleaner as a solvent on a corner to 
> break the bond. Then took a very thin 1 inch wide putty knife after dipping 
> into the brush cleaner was able to work under and around all the edges.  Took 
> about an hour and a half for this 8 x 12 hatch but saved the gel coat.  Hope 
> this might help others facing the same challenge.  BTW have since learned 
> there is a product called Anti-Bond that specifically refers to using with 
> 5200.
>  
> Lloyd Lippe
> Finesse
> LF 39
>  
> ___
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Stus-List Incredible video - fishing boats in rough sea - YouTube

[Peter Deppisch]

Amazing!
http://www.youtube.com/embed/ByGSMmenPDM?rel=0

Cheers,
Peter
S/V Tangerine
C&C35 MK II
Lion's Head, Ontario


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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[Joel Aronson]

Wow. Nice work!

Joel Aronson


On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, "hhallgr...@cox.net"  wrote:

Thanks David,

I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/

Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a little
more sanding...clean up...watch Patriots.

Harry
MIRAGE


On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote:

 Harry,

So very impressed...keep it up.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[Harry]

Andrew,

New England Boatworks.  It will be worthy of a half-hull when it's done!

 

Harry

 

Harry & Julie Hallgring

45 Burchard Avenue

Little Compton, RI 02837-1602

hhallgr...@cox.net

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

 

Harry, where are you doing the work?


Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, hhallgr...@cox.net wrote:

Thanks David,

 

I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/

 

Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a little
more sanding...clean up...watch Patriots.

 

Harry

MIRAGE





On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote:

 

 Harry, 

 

So very impressed...keep it up. 

 

David F. Risch 

(401) 419-4650 (cell) 

 

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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[Andrew Burton]

Looks great already! I'll stick my nose in next time I'm up. Beautiful boat,

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:57 AM, "Harry"  wrote:

> Andrew,
> New England Boatworks.  It will be worthy of a half-hull when it’s done!
>  
> Harry
>  
> Harry & Julie Hallgring
> 45 Burchard Avenue
> Little Compton, RI 02837-1602
> hhallgr...@cox.net
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
> Burton
> Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 9:46 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job
>  
> Harry, where are you doing the work?
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
>  
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, hhallgr...@cox.net wrote:
> 
>> Thanks David,
>>  
>> I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr.
>>  
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/
>>  
>> Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a little 
>> more sanding...clean up...watch Patriots.
>>  
>> Harry
>> MIRAGE
>> 
>> 
>> On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote:
>>  
>>  Harry,
>>  
>> So very impressed...keep it up.
>>  
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>  
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[Lisa Lias]

What color is the trim stripe? It looks really good!

Ron
C&C 35 mkIII Rhode River

On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 9:56 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Wow. Nice work!
>
> Joel Aronson
>
>
> On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, "hhallgr...@cox.net" 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks David,
>
> I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/
>
> Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a little
> more sanding...clean up...watch Patriots.
>
> Harry
> MIRAGE
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote:
>
>  Harry,
>
> So very impressed...keep it up.
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List me and 5200

[LKL Architects]

LkLThanks Andrewwill try that next timejust hoping there does not have 
to be a next time

Lloyd Lippe
Fiinesse
LF39
  - Original Message - 
  From: Andrew Burton 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 8:47 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List me and 5200


  Heat works, too. Heat the putty knife and slide it along until it cools then 
reheat it. It doesn't have to be red hot to work.

  Andrew Burton
  61 W Narragansett
  Newport, RI 
  USA02840


  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
  +401 965-5260

  On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:42 AM, "LKL Architects"  wrote:





Several weeks ago I posted regarding trying to lift a leaking deck hatch 
that would not budge.  5200 was mentioned as the probable culprit. Started by 
using a dacron fishing line and brush cleaner as a solvent on a corner to break 
the bond. Then took a very thin 1 inch wide putty knife after dipping into the 
brush cleaner was able to work under and around all the edges.  Took about an 
hour and a half for this 8 x 12 hatch but saved the gel coat.  Hope this might 
help others facing the same challenge.  BTW have since learned there is a 
product called Anti-Bond that specifically refers to using with 5200.



Lloyd Lippe

Finesse

LF 39




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--


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Re: Stus-List me and 5200

[Dennis C.]

FYI, for fresh, uncured 5200, denatured alcohol cleans it up very well.  Cured 
5200, not so much.


Dennis C.




>
> From: LKL Architects 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 8:42 AM
>Subject: Stus-List me and 5200
> 
>
> LkL   
> 
> 
>Several weeks ago I posted regarding trying to lift a leaking deck 
hatch that would not budge.  5200 was mentioned as the probable 
culprit. Started by using a dacron fishing line and brush cleaner as a 
solvent on a corner to break the bond. Then took a very thin 1 inch 
wide putty knife after dipping into the brush cleaner was able to 
work under and around all the edges.  Took about an hour and 
a half for this 8 x 12 hatch but saved the gel coat.  Hope this 
might help others facing the same challenge.  BTW have since learned there 
is a product called Anti-Bond that specifically refers to using with 
5200.
> 
>Lloyd Lippe
>Finesse
>LF 39
> 
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Re: Stus-List Incredible video - fishing boats in rough sea - YouTube

[Dennis C.]

Wonder what their SOG was against the current?

Watch the scuppers on the blue boat at 1:50 and 3:10.

Dennis C.




>
> From: Peter Deppisch 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 8:52 AM
>Subject: Stus-List Incredible video - fishing boats in rough sea - YouTube
> 
>Amazing!
>http://www.youtube.com/embed/ByGSMmenPDM?rel=0
>
>Cheers,
>Peter
>S/V Tangerine
>C&C35 MK II
>Lion's Head, Ontario
>
>
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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[airdale143]

WOW WOW WOW

They let you work on it yourselves and on weekends too?

That is great.  We have Zoomer at Yacht Management in Bristol RI, and we
got the shaft.  Can only work on the boat Mon thru Fri 7am to 3pm

Really sucks when you have to travel 2 hours up and back...

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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[D.Drake]

BIG JOB !! LOTS OF CONTORTIONS
Keep the girl  and don't stop .
I lost a a season doing my 26 up  .The wife and I spent every spare 
moment working on the boat .In the end it looked fantastic .I would 
never do it again though !



On 02/12/2012 9:56 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:

Wow. Nice work!

Joel Aronson


On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, "hhallgr...@cox.net 
" > wrote:



Thanks David,

I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/

Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a 
little more sanding...clean up...watch Patriots.


Harry
MIRAGE


On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote:

Harry,

So very impressed...keep it up.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Stus-List Keel stub cracks

[Tim Goodyear]

Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from those
who have re-habbed their keels on this model...

I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture in two
areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 8" hairline crack
on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly where the mast step is
internally).  Would this have been enough for you to go ahead with major
keel surgery?

Rear of keel
I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards have
had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but still a
tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge just aft of the
rear keel bolt (I removed the floorboards and sponged the area dry).  Water
would not normally stay in that area, but the boat is tilted back a little
on the stands.  I have not had the keel bolts torqued in 7 years (since I
bought Mojito).

Mast Step area
This is the first year I've noticed moisture in that area; there have been
hairline cracks in the antifouling before.  The mast is stepped and I can't
access that area through the mast step, which appears sound.

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
1984 C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
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Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks

[dwight veinot]

I noted this a while back on my findings about the keel hull joint on the
35/3 and 33/2 models and that comment got a fair amount of disagreement from
some owners on this list.but I really liked the 35/3 design . and the 33/2
design as well but I learned that both have some serious issues where the
keel joins to the hull that might require significant repair which may or
may not solve the problems, depends how the repair is done.it is an
important area to fix and I believe that one of our members has experience
in doing it properly.ask and you will find out.the fix is relatively
expensive but worth it if you like your boat.IMHO do the proper fix and
you'll not regret it 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Goodyear
Sent: December 2, 2012 3:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Keel stub cracks

 

Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from those
who have re-habbed their keels on this model...

 

I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture in two
areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 8" hairline crack
on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly where the mast step is
internally).  Would this have been enough for you to go ahead with major
keel surgery?

 

Rear of keel

I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards have
had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but still a
tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge just aft of the
rear keel bolt (I removed the floorboards and sponged the area dry).  Water
would not normally stay in that area, but the boat is tilted back a little
on the stands.  I have not had the keel bolts torqued in 7 years (since I
bought Mojito).

 

Mast Step area

This is the first year I've noticed moisture in that area; there have been
hairline cracks in the antifouling before.  The mast is stepped and I can't
access that area through the mast step, which appears sound.

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

Mojito

1984 C&C 35-3

Branford, CT

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2634/5432 - Release Date: 12/02/12

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Re: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Dennis,

I have one.
The flat surface is the same elevation as the 
handrail landing(s). On deck there is a 
corresponding round spot with no non-skid. It 
looks like the option was to mount a spring 
supported turning block there to lead a control 
line aft. I believe it would have been cut & 
cover'd for nut & backing plate access.


I have no idea which optional control line it was 
intended for and I have forgotten who I lent my 
book "Sail Power" to, so I'm missing that bit of 
70s reference. I know, it sucks!


Cheers, Rus
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Isd... and recently 
re-subscribed after a couple o' weeks in France 
so I'm a bit outta touch on list matters



At 02:08 PM 30/11/2012, you wrote:

I'll see if I have one.


Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2012 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump

On my 35-1 there is a molded protrusion in the headliner at the port forward
corner of the midships hatch. It's about 3 inches square.  There is nothing
on the deck above it.

I've always wondered what it was for.  Any ideas?

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

[Joel Aronson]

The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat.  A hose
leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast.  I'd
like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one
that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without
spending ridiculous amounts of money.  Any recommendations?

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis
Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

[Sam Salter]

Joel,

I bought one of these (I haven't fitted it yet) it has a built in electronic 
float switch and will fit between my keel bolts.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C299222%7C84462%7C316440&id=1579952
If anyone else has one working I'd be interested if it was an OK choice!

sam :-)
C&C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta

On 2012-12-02, at 4:32 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat.  A hose
> leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast.  I'd
> like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one
> that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without
> spending ridiculous amounts of money.  Any recommendations?
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
> Sent from my iPad
> 
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Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks

[Graham Collins]

Hi Tim
I'd pull the cabin sole and see if the floor grid is still well attached 
to the hull at the turn of the bilge, I'm guessing on the port side it 
is not.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


Tim Goodyear wrote:
Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from 
those who have re-habbed their keels on this model...
I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture 
in two areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 
8" hairline crack on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly 
where the mast step is internally).  Would this have been enough for 
you to go ahead with major keel surgery?

Rear of keel
I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards 
have had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but 
still a tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge 
just aft of the rear keel bolt (I removed the floorboards and sponged 
the area dry).  Water would not normally stay in that area, but the 
boat is tilted back a little on the stands.  I have not had the keel 
bolts torqued in 7 years (since I bought Mojito).

Mast Step area
This is the first year I've noticed moisture in that area; there have 
been hairline cracks in the antifouling before.  The mast is stepped 
and I can't access that area through the mast step, which appears sound.

Thanks,
Tim
Mojito
1984 C&C 35-3
Branford, CT


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Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

[Lee Youngblood]

Hi Joel,

Your job is not to need it!  Read John Vigors blog from November 27, 2012
How fast will you sink?   http://www.johnvigor.com/Blog.html

Sometimes I think pumps are like "psychological placements" when rock 
climbing, you put them in when you can, and it helps to think you 
tried, but you know it won't stop you if you fall.  I zippered six or 
eith pitons in the old days, and was saved by my partner.  I landed 
on top of him, and he was hurt a lot more than me.  Oops.


Usually color of the pump doesn't matter, just get the biggest one 
that will fit, and install well.


Good Luck, Lee
sv Simplicity
A 1974 C&C 35-II in Seattle rain.



Joel,

I bought one of these (I haven't fitted it yet) it has a built in 
electronic float switch and will fit between my keel bolts.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C299222%7C84462%7C316440&id=1579952
If anyone else has one working I'd be interested if it was an OK choice!

sam :-)
C&C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta

On 2012-12-02, at 4:32 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:


 The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat.  A hose
 leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast.  I'd
 like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one
 that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without
 spending ridiculous amounts of money.  Any recommendations?

 Joel
 35/3
 The Office

 > Annapolis


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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job

[hhallgring]

Ron,
I'm not sure what color gold it is.

Harry

On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 10:01 AM, Lisa Lias wrote:

 What color is the trim stripe? It looks really good!

Ron
C&C 35 mkIII Rhode River

On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 9:56 AM, Joel Aronson < joel.aron...@gmail.com 
 > 
wrote:

Wow. Nice work!

Joel Aronson
 

On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, " hhallgr...@cox.net 
 " < 
hhallgr...@cox.net 
 > 
wrote:


 
Thanks David,

I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/ 



Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a little 
more sanding...clean up...watch Patriots.


Harry
MIRAGE

On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote:

  Harry,

So very impressed...keep it up.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650  (cell)

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Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

[Joel Aronson]

I looked at that one. It has to be horizontal so it won't fit my boat. Thanks

Joel Aronson


On Dec 2, 2012, at 7:17 PM, Sam Salter  wrote:

> Joel,
>
> I bought one of these (I haven't fitted it yet) it has a built in electronic 
> float switch and will fit between my keel bolts.
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C299222%7C84462%7C316440&id=1579952
> If anyone else has one working I'd be interested if it was an OK choice!
>
> sam :-)
> C&C 26  Liquorice
> Ghost Lake  Alberta
>
> On 2012-12-02, at 4:32 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
>> The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat.  A hose
>> leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast.  I'd
>> like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one
>> that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without
>> spending ridiculous amounts of money.  Any recommendations?
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> The Office
>> Annapolis
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

[Joel Aronson]

Lee, if he is right
Note that a mere 2-inch-diameter hole 3 feet below the waterline will let
in 69 gallons a minute, or more than 4,000 gallons an hour.

and my pump is 4 gpm and I use both manual pumps I'm still screwed!
Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Dec 2, 2012, at 7:54 PM, Lee Youngblood 
wrote:

Hi Joel,

Your job is not to need it!  Read John Vigors blog from November 27, 2012
How fast will you sink?   http://www.johnvigor.com/Blog.html

Sometimes I think pumps are like "psychological placements" when rock
climbing, you put them in when you can, and it helps to think you tried,
but you know it won't stop you if you fall.  I zippered six or eith pitons
in the old days, and was saved by my partner.  I landed on top of him, and
he was hurt a lot more than me.  Oops.

Usually color of the pump doesn't matter, just get the biggest one that
will fit, and install well.

Good Luck, Lee
sv Simplicity
A 1974 C&C 35-II in Seattle rain.


Joel,


I bought one of these (I haven't fitted it yet) it has a built in
electronic float switch and will fit between my keel bolts.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C299222%7C84462%7C316440&id=1579952

If anyone else has one working I'd be interested if it was an OK choice!


sam :-)

C&C 26  Liquorice

Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 2012-12-02, at 4:32 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:


The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat.  A hose

leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast.  I'd

like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one

that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without

spending ridiculous amounts of money.  Any recommendations?


Joel

35/3

The Office

> Annapolis


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Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump - patching holes underway

[Dennis C.]

Joel,

Just my opinion but first, most of your boat isn't 3 feet below the waterline.  
Second, the hole probably won't be a full 2 inches open but a jagged splintered 
opening.  Third, go buy 3 or 4 toilet bowl wax rings and throw them on the 
boat.  They'll plug a lot of oddly shaped holes.  Wad them up and jam them in 
the hole, smash them in really good.

Third, slowing down the flow of a hole isn't terribly difficult.  Place a life 
jacket, pillow or whatever is handy over the hole and brace it with more 
"stuff".  Maybe keep an inflatable dinghy flotation bag on board to press the 
seal against the hull.  Spend some time thinking about how you would patch a 
hole here or there or over there.  Many of us Navy vets went through damage 
control training.  The training was real.  We were placed in a training mock up 
where water poured in through various holes of different shapes and locations.  
You'd be surprised at how quickly you get creative when you're getting 
inundated with hundreds (not 69).  :)

If you can't slow the flow down substantially, a larger bilge pump isn't going 
to save you.  Put your boat bucks in a good DSC distress capable VHF radio.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Joel Aronson 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:59 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump
> 
>
>Lee, if he is right 
>
>Note that a mere 2-inch-diameter hole 3 feet below the waterline will let in 
>69 gallons a minute, or more than 4,000 gallons an hour. 
>
>
>and my pump is 4 gpm and I use both manual pumps I'm still screwed!Joel
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On Dec 2, 2012, at 7:54 PM, Lee Youngblood  wrote:
>
>
>Hi Joel,
>>
>>Your job is not to need it!  Read John Vigors blog from November 27, 2012
>>How fast will you sink?   http://www.johnvigor.com/Blog.html
>>
>>Sometimes I think pumps are like "psychological placements" when rock 
>>climbing, you put them in when you can, and it helps to think you tried, but 
>>you know it won't stop you if you fall.  I zippered six or eith pitons in the 
>>old days, and was saved by my partner.  I landed on top of him, and he was 
>>hurt a lot more than me.  Oops.
>>
>>Usually color of the pump doesn't matter, just get the biggest one that will 
>>fit, and install well.
>>
>>Good Luck, Lee
>>sv Simplicity
>>A 1974 C&C 35-II in Seattle rain.
>>
>>
>>
>>Joel,
>>>
>>
>>>
>>I bought one of these (I haven't fitted it yet) it has a built in electronic 
>>float switch and will fit between my keel bolts.
>>>
>>http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C299222%7C84462%7C316440&id=1579952
>>>
>>If anyone else has one working I'd be interested if it was an OK choice!
>>>
>>
>>>
>>sam :-)
>>>
>>C&C 26  Liquorice
>>>
>>Ghost Lake  Alberta
>>>
>>
>>>
>>On 2012-12-02, at 4:32 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>>
>>
>>>
>>The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat.  A hose

>>leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast.  I'd

>>like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one

>>that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without

>>spending ridiculous amounts of money.  Any recommendations?

>>

>>Joel

>>35/3

>>The Office

>>> Annapolis
>>>
>>-- 
>>
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Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump - patching holes underway

[Joel Aronson]

Thanks!  I've got the radio.  Never heard of the wax rings.  I'll get some.

BTW, rigged a webcam and old laptop as a no cost bilge monitor.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:25 PM, "Dennis C."  wrote:

Joel,

Just my opinion but first, most of your boat isn't 3 feet below the
waterline.  Second, the hole probably won't be a full 2 inches open but a
jagged splintered opening.  Third, go buy 3 or 4 toilet bowl wax rings and
throw them on the boat.  They'll plug a lot of oddly shaped holes.  Wad
them up and jam them in the hole, smash them in really good.

Third, slowing down the flow of a hole isn't terribly difficult.  Place a
life jacket, pillow or whatever is handy over the hole and brace it with
more "stuff".  Maybe keep an inflatable dinghy flotation bag on board to
press the seal against the hull.  Spend some time thinking about how you
would patch a hole here or there or over there.  Many of us Navy vets went
through damage control training.  The training was real.  We were placed in
a training mock up where water poured in through various holes of different
shapes and locations.  You'd be surprised at how quickly you get creative
when you're getting inundated with hundreds (not 69).  :)

If you can't slow the flow down substantially, a larger bilge pump isn't
going to save you.  Put your boat bucks in a good DSC distress capable VHF
radio.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

  --
*From:* Joel Aronson 
*To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
*Sent:* Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:59 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

Lee, if he is right
Note that a mere 2-inch-diameter hole 3 feet below the waterline will let
in 69 gallons a minute, or more than 4,000 gallons an hour.

and my pump is 4 gpm and I use both manual pumps I'm still screwed!
Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Dec 2, 2012, at 7:54 PM, Lee Youngblood 
wrote:

Hi Joel,

Your job is not to need it!  Read John Vigors blog from November 27, 2012
How fast will you sink?   http://www.johnvigor.com/Blog.html

Sometimes I think pumps are like "psychological placements" when rock
climbing, you put them in when you can, and it helps to think you tried,
but you know it won't stop you if you fall.  I zippered six or eith pitons
in the old days, and was saved by my partner.  I landed on top of him, and
he was hurt a lot more than me.  Oops.

Usually color of the pump doesn't matter, just get the biggest one that
will fit, and install well.

Good Luck, Lee
sv Simplicity
A 1974 C&C 35-II in Seattle rain.


Joel,


I bought one of these (I haven't fitted it yet) it has a built in
electronic float switch and will fit between my keel bolts.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C299222%7C84462%7C316440&id=1579952

If anyone else has one working I'd be interested if it was an OK choice!


sam :-)

C&C 26  Liquorice

Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 2012-12-02, at 4:32 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:


 The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat.  A hose

 leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast.  I'd

like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one

that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without

 spending ridiculous amounts of money.  Any recommendations?


 Joel

35/3

The Office

 > Annapolis


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Re: Stus-List headliner bump

[Eric Frank]

Dennis,

I have one on my 1974 35-2, and it is exactly what Rus guesses.  Mounted on the 
flat on deck is a horizontal block that leads a line aft to the coach roof just 
forward of the cockpit.  I have one on each side of the boat.  One I use for a 
spin halyard, the other for the main sheet.  On Cat's Paw, the headliner is cut 
and covered, just as Rus suggests, which hides the backing plate and nuts.

Eric
Cat's Paw

On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:29 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2012 15:15:01 -0800
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: j...@dellabarba.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump
> Message-ID:
>   <20121202231521.KDU1732.priv-edtnes25.telusplanet.net@edtncm04>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Hi Dennis,
> 
> I have one.
> The flat surface is the same elevation as the 
> handrail landing(s). On deck there is a 
> corresponding round spot with no non-skid. It 
> looks like the option was to mount a spring 
> supported turning block there to lead a control 
> line aft. I believe it would have been cut & 
> cover'd for nut & backing plate access.
> 
> I have no idea which optional control line it was 
> intended for and I have forgotten who I lent my 
> book "Sail Power" to, so I'm missing that bit of 
> 70s reference. I know, it sucks!
> 
> Cheers, Rus
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> east side, Vancouver Isd... and recently 
> re-subscribed after a couple o' weeks in France 
> so I'm a bit outta touch on list matters
> 
> 
> At 02:08 PM 30/11/2012, you wrote:
>> I'll see if I have one.
>> 
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> j...@dellabarba.com
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
>> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2012 8:50 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump
>> 
>> On my 35-1 there is a molded protrusion in the headliner at the port forward
>> corner of the midships hatch. It's about 3 inches square.  There is nothing
>> on the deck above it.
>> 
>> I've always wondered what it was for.  Any ideas?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touch? 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 

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Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks

[Tim Goodyear]

Thanks Graham - I will have a better look in that area.

Tim


On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 7:34 PM, Graham Collins
wrote:

> Hi Tim
> I'd pull the cabin sole and see if the floor grid is still well attached
> to the hull at the turn of the bilge, I'm guessing on the port side it is
> not.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>
> Tim Goodyear wrote:
>
>> Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from
>> those who have re-habbed their keels on this model...
>> I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture in
>> two areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 8" hairline
>> crack on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly where the mast
>> step is internally).  Would this have been enough for you to go ahead with
>> major keel surgery?
>> Rear of keel
>> I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards
>> have had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but
>> still a tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge just
>> aft of the rear keel bolt (I removed the floorboards and sponged the area
>> dry).  Water would not normally stay in that area, but the boat is tilted
>> back a little on the stands.  I have not had the keel bolts torqued in 7
>> years (since I bought Mojito).
>> Mast Step area
>> This is the first year I've noticed moisture in that area; there have
>> been hairline cracks in the antifouling before.  The mast is stepped and I
>> can't access that area through the mast step, which appears sound.
>> Thanks,
>> Tim
>> Mojito
>> 1984 C&C 35-3
>> Branford, CT
>>
>>
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Stus-List suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb

[Eric Frank]

A 3/4 inch plastic barbed hose adaptor is screwed into the brass thru hull gate 
valve for the water inlet to the head. I want to replace the hose barb with 
another one, but can't unscrew it from the thru hull valve.  Teflon tape shows 
on the plastic threads of the barb so I expected it would be an easy job to 
unscrew it, but so far I can't move it.  Tried a heat gun on low heat but 
didn't help.  Any ideas what to try? - obviously I don't want to break the 
plastic fitting and end up with the threaded portion stuck in the gate valve.

Eric
Cat's Paw, 35-2
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb

[Joel Aronson]

Do they make an EasyOut screw extractor that big? Or an inside pipe
wrench that small?

Joel Aronson


On Dec 2, 2012, at 10:14 PM, Eric Frank  wrote:

> A 3/4 inch plastic barbed hose adaptor is screwed into the brass thru hull 
> gate valve for the water inlet to the head. I want to replace the hose barb 
> with another one, but can't unscrew it from the thru hull valve.  Teflon tape 
> shows on the plastic threads of the barb so I expected it would be an easy 
> job to unscrew it, but so far I can't move it.  Tried a heat gun on low heat 
> but didn't help.  Any ideas what to try? - obviously I don't want to break 
> the plastic fitting and end up with the threaded portion stuck in the gate 
> valve.
>
> Eric
> Cat's Paw, 35-2
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
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Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

[Chris Price]

I put one of those in this year and the bilge has never been so dry for the 
last twelve years. The sump was always filled with water since the typical 
float switch was always mounted too high. 

Chris Price C&C35 MkI Pradel 

- Original Message -
From: "Sam Salter"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:23:06 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump 

Joel, 

I bought one of these (I haven't fitted it yet) it has a built in electronic 
float switch and will fit between my keel bolts. 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C299222%7C84462%7C316440&id=1579952
 
If anyone else has one working I'd be interested if it was an OK choice! 

sam :-) 
C&C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

On 2012-12-02, at 4:32 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote: 

> The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat. A hose 
> leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast. I'd 
> like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one 
> that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without 
> spending ridiculous amounts of money. Any recommendations? 
> 
> Joel 
> 35/3 
> The Office 
> Annapolis 
> Sent from my iPad 
> 
> ___ 
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
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Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

[Dennis C.]

My next float switch will be one of these:  
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_infor3

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
mandeville, LA




>
> From: Chris Price 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 10:01 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump
> 
>
>I put one of those in this year and the bilge has never been so dry for the 
>last twelve years. The sump was always filled with water since the typical 
>float switch was always mounted too high.
>
>Chris Price C&C35 MkI Pradel
>
>>
>From: "Sam Salter" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:23:06 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump
>
>Joel,
>
>I bought one of these (I haven't fitted it yet) it has a built in electronic 
>float switch and will fit between my keel bolts.
>http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C299222%7C84462%7C316440&id=1579952
>If anyone else has one working I'd be interested if it was an OK choice!
>
>sam :-)
>C&C 26  Liquorice
>Ghost Lake  Alberta
>
>On 2012-12-02, at 4:32 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
>> The bilge pump on my 35/3 is under the forward dinette seat.  A hose
>> leads to a strainer in the forward sump just behind the mast.  I'd
>> like to replace it with a higher volume pump, but I can't find one
>> that will fit in the bilge compartment next to the keel bolt without
>> spending ridiculous amounts of money.  Any recommendations?
>> 
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> The Office
>> Annapolis
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump

[Jim Watts]

You didn't miss a thing.

Those rumours about Wally and the four stewardesses were apparently untrue,
and defaming to Wally, the girls, and the four sheep that survived.



On 2 December 2012 15:15, Russ & Melody  wrote:

>  Hi Dennis,
>
> I have one.
> The flat surface is the same elevation as the handrail landing(s). On deck
> there is a corresponding round spot with no non-skid. It looks like the
> option was to mount a spring supported turning block there to lead a
> control line aft. I believe it would have been cut & cover'd for nut &
> backing plate access.
>
> I have no idea which optional control line it was intended for and I have
> forgotten who I lent my book "Sail Power" to, so I'm missing that bit of
> 70s reference. I know, it sucks!
>
> ****Cheers, Rus
> *****Sweet *35 mk-1
> east side, Vancouver Isd... and recently re-subscribed after a couple o'
> weeks in France so I'm a bit outta touch on list matters
>
>
>
> At 02:08 PM 30/11/2012, you wrote:
>
> I'll see if I have one.
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [ 
> mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> On Behalf Of Dennis C.
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2012 8:50 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump
>
> On my 35-1 there is a molded protrusion in the headliner at the port
> forward
> corner of the midships hatch. It's about 3 inches square.  There is nothing
> on the deck above it.
>
> I've always wondered what it was for.  Any ideas?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
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>
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
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>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump

[Russ & Melody]

Thanks Jim.

Melody is better than I at interpreting the French news.
We were wondering what happened to the fifth sheep... the cute one.

Cheers, Russ

At 08:39 PM 02/12/2012, you wrote:

You didn't miss a thing.

Those rumours about Wally and the four 
stewardesses were apparently untrue, and 
defaming to Wally, the girls, and the four sheep that survived.




On 2 December 2012 15:15, Russ & Melody 
<russ...@telus.net> wrote:

Hi Dennis,

I have one.
The flat surface is the same elevation as the 
handrail landing(s). On deck there is a 
corresponding round spot with no non-skid. It 
looks like the option was to mount a spring 
supported turning block there to lead a control 
line aft. I believe it would have been cut & 
cover'd for nut & backing plate access.


I have no idea which optional control line it 
was intended for and I have forgotten who I lent 
my book "Sail Power" to, so I'm missing that bit 
of 70s reference. I know, it sucks!


Cheers, Rus
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Isd... and recently 
re-subscribed after a couple o' weeks in France 
so I'm a bit outta touch on list matters




At 02:08 PM 30/11/2012, you wrote:

I'll see if I have one.


Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2012 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump

On my 35-1 there is a molded protrusion in the headliner at the port forward
corner of the midships hatch. It's about 3 inches square.  There is nothing
on the deck above it.

I've always wondered what it was for.  Any ideas?

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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