Re: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts

[Michael Cotton]

AC Delco is GM's OE supplier. NAPA is an aftermarket supplier. They are not 
equal. AC Delco is a superior product. I have no interest in either company.  I 
do have 40 experience in the automotive service industry.
Michael Cotton
Hunter 23, S/V High Cotton
Denver Co





>
> From: dwight veinot 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 11:32 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts
> 
>
>
> 
>If it matters to you Damien I always
used NAPA or AC Delco parts on the Atomic 4 in my 27 when I owned that boat,
but I changed things like plugs, condenser, points, rotor button and distributor
cap out at the start of every season and did a proper dwell angle set on the
points and timing on the distributor as a matter of getting ready; the parts
don’t cost much and changing them out every year is not very expensive
compared to pains associated with poor operation.  I also carried a spare
ignition coil and alternator belt on board.  Some changed out parts stayed on
as backups, like plugs for example which should go more than 1 season easy.  The
carb is fairly simple and I don’t think it needs much except to be kept
clean…don’t even remember that I had a fuel filter on that system.
> 
>Dwight Veinot
>C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> 
>
>
> 
>From:CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Damien Morrissey
>Sent: May 16, 2013 2:00 PM
>To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Stus-List Marine vs
Automotive parts
> 
>Thanks Bill Bina for
the explanation - excerpt below ..
>I knew there had to be a
better reason that just gouging us ""rich" boating types 
> 
>As for the parts I needed
for the Atomic 4 engine, the parts list I used came from Stu's list on the
C&C Photoalbum and I thought they were the right ones.  I thought the
list even said that Napa 
was a great source for the parts.
> 
>I guess I'll have to take
at look at what I did last summer and determine if it's safe and up to snuff

> 
>Damien
>"Melissa Anne"
- for now, I may change her name
>33'
>Bay of Islands Yacht
Club 
>Corner Brook , NL
> 
>___
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 09:08:18 -0400
>From: Bill Bina 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Blues
>Message-ID: <5194da42.5000...@sbcglobal.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1";
Format="flowed"
>
>A big note of caution is needed when using automotive parts in a marine
>application:
>
>"One of the most common questions my marina customers ask me on a daily
>basis is what is the difference between marine and auto parts. Many
>people will ask for a part and when given a price will tell me that they
>can get the same part at the local auto parts store for half the price...
>
>
> 
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5828 - Release Date: 05/16/13
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Rick Brass]

Some diesels don't use glow plugs. Normally they are direct injection and
have higher compression than engines that use glow plugs. Requires a more
powerful starter, faster crank speed, they are harder to start but easier to
get compliance with emissions standards.

 

Engines with glow plugs are normally indirect injection. Plug heats the air
in a pre-combustion passage in the cylinder head and hot air ignites the
fuel. Easier starting (as long as the plugs work), lower injection pressures
on pump and injectors, harder to get emissions compliance and complete
combustion on cold start.

 

There are other systems as well. The new Ultra High pressure common rail
Cummins engines (like you find in your pickup truck) have a heating grid in
the air intake that heats the air in the intake manifold until the engine is
up to temperature. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID ON ONE OF THESE
BECAUSE IT WILL FLASH BACK IN YOUR FACE.

 

The strangest system I've personally seen is on older Perkins 6-cylinder
engines used in construction equipment and larger forklifts. It had a
thermostatically controlled solenoid that bled hot fuel into the intake
manifold. This enriched the mixture and aided starting. It also smoked like
the devil and smelled like a refinery when the solenoid valve leaked - and
they all leaked after a relatively short while.

 

Glow plugs or not is an engineering tradeoff made by manufacturers depending
on costs, philosophy, and engine application, I don't think any Yanmar
marine engine I know of uses glow plugs, but the 65HP 4 cylinder industrial
engines do.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Risch
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 7:58 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

 

OK...I gotta ask.

I have a 1981 3QM30.  Purrs like a kitten.

No glow plug.  Start up cold just fine.  Just a few more cranks.Before
this engine  I thought all diesels had glow plugs.

What gives?


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



 

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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Jake Brodersen]

Someday I will retrofit a glow plug into the intake manifold.  It will
certainly help with starting.  The Cummins diesels use a heating grid in the
intake manifold to warm the incoming air.  Just the type of thing needed to
start a cold diesel.

 

Jake  

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 8:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

 

yanmars do not.

Joel

Sent from my iPad


On May 16, 2013, at 7:58 AM, David Risch  wrote:

OK...I gotta ask.

I have a 1981 3QM30.  Purrs like a kitten.

No glow plug.  Start up cold just fine.  Just a few more cranks.Before
this engine  I thought all diesels had glow plugs.

What gives?


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 04:07:54 +
From: cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

David,
The glow plugs are only needed when the engine is cold.  I hold that glow
plug button for at least 30secs.  Rule of Thumb: Take 100, subtract the
water temp and hold it for those seconds, and you should be good for a first
try.  If the water is 40 F, hold the button for 60 seconds.  If the water is
70, hold for 30 seconds.   Count 1000 one, 1000 two and so on, or use a
watch.   

Once the engine starts and has warmed up, we go sailing, shutdown the engine
and later I restart the engine without needing glowplugs.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:51:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal

I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and
I have been told several different stories.  One person said to hold the
glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start.  Another said 30 seconds
on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the
starter.  The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the
winter while plugged into shore power.  Yesterday I started it for the first
time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I
started while also holding the glow plug button.  Started find when I let go
the glow plug button.  What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold
engine in cool weather.  Warm weather?  Warm engine?  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT


 



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Re: Stus-List Polyurethane on Floorboards

[Graham Collins]

If you can get it in spray cans, sand your last brushed on coat smooth 
and then spray a top coat.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-05-16 10:13 AM, Edd Schillay wrote:

Listers,

We're just about done withe the floorboard restoration and wanted some 
advice regarding adding polyurethane to get that sealed glossy look. 
I've put on two coats already with a soft bristle brush and it's 
looking blotchy in places. One of my crew said you just need to add 
more coats -- like 4 or 5.


Would appreciate anyone's thoughts on the subject and if I should be 
using different materials (foam roller, low-nap roller, etc.)



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website 
 (THE COUNTDOWN IS RUNNING!)





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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Curtis]

Yea its the pre-cupped vr. Direct injection. pre-Cupped had glow plug
rail the DI did not.


On 5/16/13, Don Wagner  wrote:
> Just a few comments regarding the use of Glow Plugs..
> I vaguely recall reading in a diesel book, that modern designs of the heads
>
> and injectors on a diesel do not require glow plugs.
> I had Caterpiller 3208Ts on a trawler (320 HP) and they did not have glow
> plugs.
> I never had any problems starting them, even in below freezing weather. They
>
> always started promptly on the 1st engine rotation.
> This CAT design was essentially the same as the design used on big trucks,
> earth movers, etc
>
> I have also read (somewhere, not sure where) that if an engine has a glow
> plug, you should hold it depressed as suggested by the manual, but should
> not have it depressed when starting. The reason given was that the extra
> stress on the red hot glow plug during start up will reduce the lifetime of
>
> the glow plug.
>
> Does anyone have any experience with that??
>
> Don Wagner
> C&C 41 CB
> Yanmar 3HM35F-- no glow plugs
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Curtis" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 11:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
>
>
> My Yanmar 2GM dont have them and dont need them. In south Carolina
> where the temp is always higher than my age they start up with no
> problems.
>
> On 5/16/13, David Risch  wrote:
>> OK...I gotta ask.
>>
>> I have a 1981 3QM30.  Purrs like a kitten.
>>
>> No glow plug.  Start up cold just fine.  Just a few more cranks.
>> Before
>> this engine  I thought all diesels had glow plugs.
>>
>> What gives?
>>
>>
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>
>>
>> Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 04:07:54 +
>> From: cscheaf...@comcast.net
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
>>
>> David,
>> The glow plugs are only needed when the engine is cold.  I hold that glow
>> plug button for at least 30secs.  Rule of Thumb: Take 100, subtract the
>> water temp and hold it for those seconds, and you should be good for a
>> first
>> try.  If the water is 40 F, hold the button for 60 seconds.  If the water
>>
>> is
>> 70, hold for 30 seconds.   Count 1000 one, 1000 two and so on, or use a
>> watch.
>>
>> Once the engine starts and has warmed up, we go sailing, shutdown the
>> engine
>> and later I restart the engine without needing glowplugs.
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Atlantic City, NJ
>> From: "David Knecht" 
>> To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:51:50 PM
>> Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal
>>
>> I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat,
>> and
>> I have been told several different stories.  One person said to hold the
>> glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start.  Another said 30
>> seconds
>> on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the
>> starter.  The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after
>> the
>> winter while plugged into shore power.  Yesterday I started it for the
>> first
>> time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if
>>
>> I
>> started while also holding the glow plug button.  Started find when I let
>>
>> go
>> the glow plug button.  What is the "normal" starting procedure with a
>> cold
>> engine in cool weather.  Warm weather?  Warm engine?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>>
>> David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> --
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>


-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

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Re: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts

[dwight veinot]

If it matters to you Damien I always used NAPA or AC Delco parts on the
Atomic 4 in my 27 when I owned that boat, but I changed things like plugs,
condenser, points, rotor button and distributor cap out at the start of
every season and did a proper dwell angle set on the points and timing on
the distributor as a matter of getting ready; the parts don't cost much and
changing them out every year is not very expensive compared to pains
associated with poor operation.  I also carried a spare ignition coil and
alternator belt on board.  Some changed out parts stayed on as backups, like
plugs for example which should go more than 1 season easy.  The carb is
fairly simple and I don't think it needs much except to be kept clean.don't
even remember that I had a fuel filter on that system.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Damien
Morrissey
Sent: May 16, 2013 2:00 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts

 

Thanks Bill Bina for the explanation - excerpt below ..

I knew there had to be a better reason that just gouging us ""rich" boating
types 

 

As for the parts I needed for the Atomic 4 engine, the parts list I used
came from Stu's list on the C&C Photoalbum and I thought they were the right
ones.  I thought the list even said that Napa was a great source for the
parts.

 

I guess I'll have to take at look at what I did last summer and determine if
it's safe and up to snuff 

 

Damien

"Melissa Anne" - for now, I may change her name

33'

Bay of Islands Yacht Club 

Corner Brook, NL

 

___


Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 09:08:18 -0400
From: Bill Bina <  billb...@sbcglobal.net>
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Blues
Message-ID: < 
5194da42.5000...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

A big note of caution is needed when using automotive parts in a marine
application:

"One of the most common questions my marina customers ask me on a daily
basis is what is the difference between marine and auto parts. Many
people will ask for a part and when given a price will tell me that they
can get the same part at the local auto parts store for half the
price...

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5828 - Release Date: 05/16/13

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Re: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts

[Della Barba, Joe]

Marine starters, alternators, distributors, carbs, and fuel hoses all have one 
or more safety features not found on the auto version.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Damien 
Morrissey
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 1:00 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts

Thanks Bill Bina for the explanation - excerpt below ..
I knew there had to be a better reason that just gouging us ""rich" boating 
types 

As for the parts I needed for the Atomic 4 engine, the parts list I used came 
from Stu's list on the C&C Photoalbum and I thought they were the right ones.  
I thought the list even said that Napa was a great source for the parts.

I guess I'll have to take at look at what I did last summer and determine if 
it's safe and up to snuff 

Damien
"Melissa Anne" - for now, I may change her name
33'
Bay of Islands Yacht Club
Corner Brook, NL

___

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 09:08:18 -0400
From: Bill Bina mailto:billb...@sbcglobal.net>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Blues
Message-ID: 
<5194da42.5000...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

A big note of caution is needed when using automotive parts in a marine
application:

"One of the most common questions my marina customers ask me on a daily
basis is what is the difference between marine and auto parts. Many
people will ask for a part and when given a price will tell me that they
can get the same part at the local auto parts store for half the price...
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Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts

[Damien Morrissey]

Thanks Bill Bina for the explanation - excerpt below ..
I knew there had to be a better reason that just gouging us ""rich" boating
types 

As for the parts I needed for the Atomic 4 engine, the parts list I used
came from Stu's list on the C&C Photoalbum and I thought they were the
right ones.  I thought the list even said that Napa was a great source for
the parts.

I guess I'll have to take at look at what I did last summer and determine
if it's safe and up to snuff 

Damien
"Melissa Anne" - for now, I may change her name
33'
Bay of Islands Yacht Club
Corner Brook, NL

___

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 09:08:18 -0400
From: Bill Bina 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Blues
Message-ID: <5194da42.5000...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

A big note of caution is needed when using automotive parts in a marine
application:

"One of the most common questions my marina customers ask me on a daily
basis is what is the difference between marine and auto parts. Many
people will ask for a part and when given a price will tell me that they
can get the same part at the local auto parts store for half the
price...
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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Frederick G Street]

We don't necessarily do it on purpose… but I've been on Lake Superior doing a 
delivery the second week of October; the weather started out pretty nice, but 
by the time we got east to Munising, MI an early-season blizzard was blowing 
up.  So we put in there for a few days.  Lots of snow, really cold, and the 
waves out on the lake were in the 20-foot+ range.

Basically, early and late season up there, you pretty much need to be ready for 
anything.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 16, 2013, at 9:46 AM, dwight veinot  wrote:

> Fred
>  
> Do you guys really start your engines and go sailing at temperatures below 
> the freezing point of water up there on Superior…tough guys but I guess you 
> just have to dress as if you were going skiing. I did that in early spring 
> and late fall seasons for a few years a long time ago when I was really up 
> for the challenge…good for you, you still got it man

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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Don Wagner]

Just a few comments regarding the use of Glow Plugs..
I vaguely recall reading in a diesel book, that modern designs of the heads 
and injectors on a diesel do not require glow plugs.
I had Caterpiller 3208Ts on a trawler (320 HP) and they did not have glow 
plugs.
I never had any problems starting them, even in below freezing weather. They 
always started promptly on the 1st engine rotation.
This CAT design was essentially the same as the design used on big trucks, 
earth movers, etc


I have also read (somewhere, not sure where) that if an engine has a glow 
plug, you should hold it depressed as suggested by the manual, but should 
not have it depressed when starting. The reason given was that the extra 
stress on the red hot glow plug during start up will reduce the lifetime of 
the glow plug.


Does anyone have any experience with that??

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Yanmar 3HM35F-- no glow plugs


- Original Message - 
From: "Curtis" 

To: 
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal


My Yanmar 2GM dont have them and dont need them. In south Carolina
where the temp is always higher than my age they start up with no
problems.

On 5/16/13, David Risch  wrote:

OK...I gotta ask.

I have a 1981 3QM30.  Purrs like a kitten.

No glow plug.  Start up cold just fine.  Just a few more cranks.Before
this engine  I thought all diesels had glow plugs.

What gives?


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 04:07:54 +
From: cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

David,
The glow plugs are only needed when the engine is cold.  I hold that glow
plug button for at least 30secs.  Rule of Thumb: Take 100, subtract the
water temp and hold it for those seconds, and you should be good for a 
first
try.  If the water is 40 F, hold the button for 60 seconds.  If the water 
is

70, hold for 30 seconds.   Count 1000 one, 1000 two and so on, or use a
watch.

Once the engine starts and has warmed up, we go sailing, shutdown the 
engine

and later I restart the engine without needing glowplugs.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:51:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal

I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, 
and

I have been told several different stories.  One person said to hold the
glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start.  Another said 30 seconds
on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the
starter.  The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the
winter while plugged into shore power.  Yesterday I started it for the 
first
time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if 
I
started while also holding the glow plug button.  Started find when I let 
go

the glow plug button.  What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold
engine in cool weather.  Warm weather?  Warm engine?  Thanks- Dave


David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT



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--
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Fred Hazzard]

As always Terry your convoluted advise is a BIG help.  NOT!

 

Fast Freddie

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Fred, the older Yanmars have a reciprocating dingle valve to control the 
exhaust temperature in the fluval chamber. As you have already noticed, once 
the engine warms up, the dingle valve opens and lets the hot engine exhaust 
pass through the fluval chamber removing any excess unburned fuel. The newer 
engines have replaced the dingle valve with a resonating bundle arm so they 
don’t smoke even when just started.

 

Hope this helps...T 

 

From: Fred Hazzard   

Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 2:54 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Rick:

 

My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started.  After about 5 mins of 
motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little.  An thoughts from your 
experience with these Yanmars?  I have no idea of the hours as the hour meter 
was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in 2007.  This engine 
starts very easily and runs well.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 6:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Russ is correct. With proper care, clean fuel, regular air cleaner changes, 
etc.  10.000 hours is attainable. In the forklift business, we routinely saw 
16,000 or so hours out of the 4 cylinder Yanmars we used in the smaller trucks.

 

Regarding the cost of an injector service, The last injector service on my 
previous engine (PO saved $300 on the exhaust installation, and cost me $8k for 
a replacement engine) was about $275 for four injectors.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Hi Don,

The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned carbon 
from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from the 5,000  
hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours is attainable 
with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not replacing or a rebuild. 

My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to Nanaimo to 
have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He is the best 
diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest guess is $100 - 
150  per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote:

Hi Kim

Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up it
seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are backed
up here in Victoria).

What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 with
around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change
the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
expensive.

How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
sharing.  

Don

-Original Message-
From: Kim Brown [mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net] 
Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


Don
Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because
we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for
Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra
smoke on start, oily exhaust water.  So better here than there. Had the
injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted
other potential trouble spots.  The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and
was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow
tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager
amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked
wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops
right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel
building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore.
I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so
it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on
my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a
PITA to extract). 

Kim B

Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds

[Curtis]

Same on my C&C30MK1

On 5/15/13, dwight veinot  wrote:
> Bob
>
>
>
> I think these” tubes” are properly called turn buckle boots and they have
> boot caps which usually are split…on Alianna I tape the split caps fast to
> the boot because the sail and sheet action cause them to ride up the
> shrouds
> sometimes.
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Abbott
> Sent: May 15, 2013 11:07 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
>
>
>
> If I have the option to put the tubes on without splitting them, I would
> not
> split them agree with Tim on this one..just more unnecessary
> hassles.
>
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA\C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
> On 2013/05/15 10:58 AM, Tim Sippel wrote:
>
> Hi Steve, a C&C 32 is keel stepped I believe , you can safely release one
> shroud at a time and but the “boots” on … I do it every year .
>
> Slitting the boot and putting tape on it could  result in adhesive and then
> dirt transferring to your sail .
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
> Plavsa
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
>
>
>
> I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up.
> I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list.
>
>
> What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer
> shrouds
> and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud
> turnbuckles only.
>
>
>
> Should I use a halyard as backup?
>
> I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard
> (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely
> re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension
> the shrouds properly. Is this right?
>
>
>
> I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be
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-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Curtis]

My Yanmar 2GM dont have them and dont need them. In south Carolina
where the temp is always higher than my age they start up with no
problems.

On 5/16/13, David Risch  wrote:
> OK...I gotta ask.
>
> I have a 1981 3QM30.  Purrs like a kitten.
>
> No glow plug.  Start up cold just fine.  Just a few more cranks.Before
> this engine  I thought all diesels had glow plugs.
>
> What gives?
>
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 04:07:54 +
> From: cscheaf...@comcast.net
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
>
> David,
> The glow plugs are only needed when the engine is cold.  I hold that glow
> plug button for at least 30secs.  Rule of Thumb: Take 100, subtract the
> water temp and hold it for those seconds, and you should be good for a first
> try.  If the water is 40 F, hold the button for 60 seconds.  If the water is
> 70, hold for 30 seconds.   Count 1000 one, 1000 two and so on, or use a
> watch.
>
> Once the engine starts and has warmed up, we go sailing, shutdown the engine
> and later I restart the engine without needing glowplugs.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "David Knecht" 
> To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:51:50 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal
>
> I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and
> I have been told several different stories.  One person said to hold the
> glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start.  Another said 30 seconds
> on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the
> starter.  The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the
> winter while plugged into shore power.  Yesterday I started it for the first
> time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I
> started while also holding the glow plug button.  Started find when I let go
> the glow plug button.  What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold
> engine in cool weather.  Warm weather?  Warm engine?  Thanks- Dave
>
>
> David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[dwight veinot]

Fred

 

Do you guys really start your engines and go sailing at temperatures below
the freezing point of water up there on Superior.tough guys but I guess you
just have to dress as if you were going skiing. I did that in early spring
and late fall seasons for a few years a long time ago when I was really up
for the challenge.good for you, you still got it man

 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: May 16, 2013 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

 

Unless you sail on Lake Superior.   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On May 16, 2013, at 7:20 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:





It may be because these engines are not designed to start in really cold
conditions. Inboard marine engines are seldom asked to start at much below
the freezing point.

 

  _  

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5828 - Release Date: 05/16/13

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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Frederick G Street]

Unless you sail on Lake Superior…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 16, 2013, at 7:20 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:

> It may be because these engines are not designed to start in really cold 
> conditions. Inboard marine engines are seldom asked to start at much below 
> the freezing point.

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Re: Stus-List Polyurethane on Floorboards

[Steve Thomas]

Always use a brush for varnish, and try not to brush it out any more than the 
minimum required to eliminate drips. Otherwise you
can get bubbles in the finish. Take it easy if you stir it, for the same 
reason. Yes, several coats are often necessary. I find it
works best to time the coats according to the manufacturers instructions, so 
that no sanding is required between coats. I have
used an alarm clock to wake me up when time to apply the next coat.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Edd Schillay
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 9:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Polyurethane on Floorboards


Listers,


We're just about done withe the floorboard restoration and wanted some advice 
regarding adding polyurethane to get that sealed
glossy look. I've put on two coats already with a soft bristle brush and it's 
looking blotchy in places. One of my crew said you
just need to add more coats -- like 4 or 5.


Would appreciate anyone's thoughts on the subject and if I should be using 
different materials (foam roller, low-nap roller, etc.)




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website (THE COUNTDOWN IS RUNNING!)



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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Prime Interest]

>From an earlier note :

"Hi,

I just wanted to point out that many of the Yanmar exhaust parts are
available at much more reasonable price.   For example, the common mixing
elbow (124070-13520 Mixing Elbow) which  Bob pointed out lists for $270, can
be purchased much cheaper from several vendors.   I purchased one recently
for $69.95 from MMI Seattle.

See:

http://www.mmiseattle.com/e/manifolds_e_hge_yanmar.htm
   and here for more details
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/YAN-D-EXH/Exhaust+Parts+for+Yanmar+Diesel+Inboa
rds

Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL "

Ed Vanderkruk
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

Someone had a source of Yanmar exhaust risers (other than Mack Boring). My
old black pipe version decided to rust apart yesterday. I have it patched
for a while, but that is going to be a short term solution.

Before I build a new black pipe version, I would like to check out a 'real' 
one.

Gary Nylander
Yanmar 2QM15.
- Original Message -
From: "Kim Brown" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:57 PM
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


> Don
> Hard to tell as I also had the fresh water pump replaced and assorted
> hoses/belts, along w/ replacing the knuckle, clean and tighten exhaust 
> elbow
> etc.  Looks like the parts bill includes $50/each for the new tips and
> another $12/ each for the assorted bits -washers, covers etc associated w/
> injectors. 1.5 hours for shop work- replace tips, clean, paint @ $85/hr.
> plus he came to me, pulled them and reinstalled them- testing compression 
> on
> his way through. All in it was $700 labor/travel time and $400 parts. In 
> my
> youth that would have been 11 boat bucks but being an experienced boater I
> now know it is barely more than 1 boat buck (US or CDN). And it was 
> well
> worth it - purrs like a new engine.
> Kim Brown
> Trust Me!!!
> 35-3
>
> _
>
>
>
>
> From: "Don Jonsson" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
> Message-ID: <003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi Kim
>
> Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
> blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
> smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up 
> it
> seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are 
> backed
> up here in Victoria).
>
> What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 
> with
> around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
> also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially 
> change
> the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
> expensive.
>
> How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
> sharing.
>
> Don
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 



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Stus-List Polyurethane on Floorboards

[Edd Schillay]

Listers,

We're just about done withe the floorboard restoration and wanted some 
advice regarding adding polyurethane to get that sealed glossy look. I've put 
on two coats already with a soft bristle brush and it's looking blotchy in 
places. One of my crew said you just need to add more coats -- like 4 or 5.

Would appreciate anyone's thoughts on the subject and if I should be 
using different materials (foam roller, low-nap roller, etc.)



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website (THE COUNTDOWN IS RUNNING!)


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Re: Stus-List A4 Blues

[Bill Bina]

A big note of caution is needed when using automotive parts in a marine 
application:


"One of the most common questions my marina customers ask me on a daily 
basis is what is the difference between marine and auto parts. Many 
people will ask for a part and when given a price will tell me that they 
can get the same part at the local auto parts store for half the price. 
It is something that people in the marine industry have been dealing 
with for many years. Most boaters are not aware of the differences in 
automotive parts as compared to marine and in some cases your life can 
depend on it. The parts with the most differences are the electrical and 
fuel systems, exhaust systems and cooling systems. Also, for many of the 
parts, it is illegal to use parts on your vessel that are not US Coast 
Guard approved.



In an enclosed engine compartment if there are any gas fumes there is 
the chance of fire. Electrical components for marine engines are meant 
to resist having exposed areas where there will be spark. Items such as 
fuel pumps, alternators and starters are all special for marine use. It 
is not uncommon a marine starter to be more than double its automotive 
counterpart. Marine spark plugs are built with stainless casings so they 
do not rust into the engine heads.



Cooling systems are another area where the automotive part is usually 
significantly less costly than its marine counterpart. In a sterndrive 
engine, the base engine is nearly identical to the automotive engine 
internally. However, the automotive engine is built with the intention 
of having a specialized coolant running through it helping prevent 
corrosion. Most sterndrive engines are cooled by water. If an automotive 
circulating water pump is used it will generally not last very long. In 
engines cooled with salt water they may only last a few months. Marine 
circulating pumps have special seals and are made with stainless and 
bronze internal components to prevent corrosion.



Marine fuel systems are far different than automotive systems. On a 
marine engine that is carbureted, the carburetor itself is built to 
prevent fuel from overflowing and spilling onto a hot engine. On a fuel 
injected engine in auto use the fuel pumps are generally located inside 
the fuel tank. In boats, for safety reasons, the fuel pump or pumps are 
located on the engine, secured on special brackets and connected with 
special fuel lines and wiring to prevent spills and stray sparks.



Engine internals are also specially built to handle what boats are made 
for, low end torque and camshafts meant to run at higher RPM's for 
sustained time periods.


The proper parts may cost you more money when you purchase them, but for 
your safety and the safety of those  boating with you remember that 
marine parts are the only way to go."



Bill Bina

On 5/16/2013 8:39 AM, Damien Morrissey wrote:

Bob M.
I had a full season of A4 issues last year and finally found a 
mechanic who was willing and able to visit the 'ole gal and diagnose 
my engine issues.  These issues were related to smooth and consistant 
running, especially when it was warmed up.   He found the problems 
were all related the ignition and sparking system, so he replaced the 
coil, plugs, wires, distributer, rotor, points, belts etc.   It runs 
as good or better now than it has in a long time.  I found the parts 
list on Stu's site and was able to get all the parts from Napa.

I hope your fix is this easy and cheap.
Good Luck
Damien


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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Bill Coleman]

The answer is, 'whatever it takes'

My old Perkins had no glo plugs, My understanding is that the compression
was so high that it didn't need them. I started it up in 35 degree weather
when it was well over 30 years old.

Just experiment with your glo plugs and only activate them to where your
engine will start after a one or two cranks. 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 4:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

 

I have an M4-30.hold the glow plug 30-60 seconds then press the starter
button while still holding the glow plug button depressed.I think that's
what the manual says to do and that is what I do to start.in warmer weather
I don't hold the glow plug quite as long but I don't think my M4-30 will
start at all unless both buttons are depressed at the same time.maybe my
panel is wired up differently than yours

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: May 15, 2013 4:52 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal

 

I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and
I have been told several different stories.  One person said to hold the
glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start.  Another said 30 seconds
on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the
starter.  The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the
winter while plugged into shore power.  Yesterday I started it for the first
time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I
started while also holding the glow plug button.  Started find when I let go
the glow plug button.  What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold
engine in cool weather.  Warm weather?  Warm engine?  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13

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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Gary Nylander]

Someone had a source of Yanmar exhaust risers (other than Mack Boring). My 
old black pipe version decided to rust apart yesterday. I have it patched 
for a while, but that is going to be a short term solution.


Before I build a new black pipe version, I would like to check out a 'real' 
one.


Gary Nylander
Yanmar 2QM15.
- Original Message - 
From: "Kim Brown" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:57 PM
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle



Don
Hard to tell as I also had the fresh water pump replaced and assorted
hoses/belts, along w/ replacing the knuckle, clean and tighten exhaust 
elbow

etc.  Looks like the parts bill includes $50/each for the new tips and
another $12/ each for the assorted bits -washers, covers etc associated w/
injectors. 1.5 hours for shop work- replace tips, clean, paint @ $85/hr.
plus he came to me, pulled them and reinstalled them- testing compression 
on
his way through. All in it was $700 labor/travel time and $400 parts. In 
my

youth that would have been 11 boat bucks but being an experienced boater I
now know it is barely more than 1 boat buck (US or CDN). And it was 
well

worth it - purrs like a new engine.
Kim Brown
Trust Me!!!
35-3

_




From: "Don Jonsson" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Message-ID: <003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Kim

Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up 
it
seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are 
backed

up here in Victoria).

What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 
with

around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially 
change

the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
expensive.

How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
sharing.

Don



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Stus-List A4 Blues

[Damien Morrissey]

Bob M.
I had a full season of A4 issues last year and finally found a mechanic who
was willing and able to visit the 'ole gal and diagnose my engine issues.
These issues were related to smooth and consistant running, especially when
it was warmed up.   He found the problems were all related the ignition and
sparking system, so he replaced the coil, plugs, wires, distributer, rotor,
points, belts etc.   It runs as good or better now than it has in a long
time.  I found the parts list on Stu's site and was able to get all the
parts from Napa.

I hope your fix is this easy and cheap.
Good Luck

Damien
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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Steve Thomas]

It may be because these engines are not designed to start in really cold 
conditions. Inboard marine engines are seldom asked to
start at much below the freezing point.

Steve Thomas
Yanmar YSB12
Port Stanley, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of David Risch
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 7:58 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal


OK...I gotta ask.

I have a 1981 3QM30.  Purrs like a kitten.

No glow plug.  Start up cold just fine.  Just a few more cranks.Before this 
engine  I thought all diesels had glow plugs.

What gives?


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)





Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 04:07:54 +
From: cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal


David,
The glow plugs are only needed when the engine is cold.  I hold that glow plug 
button for at least 30secs.  Rule of Thumb: Take
100, subtract the water temp and hold it for those seconds, and you should be 
good for a first try.  If the water is 40 F, hold
the button for 60 seconds.  If the water is 70, hold for 30 seconds.   Count 
1000 one, 1000 two and so on, or use a watch.

Once the engine starts and has warmed up, we go sailing, shutdown the engine 
and later I restart the engine without needing
glowplugs.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ



From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:51:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal

I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I 
have been told several different stories.  One
person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start.  
Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave
the button pushed while also pushing the starter.  The latter worked when I was 
first starting the engine after the winter while
plugged into shore power.  Yesterday I started it for the first time without 
shore power and found that the starter did not kick
at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button.  Started find when 
I let go the glow plug button.  What is the
"normal" starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather.  Warm weather?  
Warm engine?  Thanks- Dave


David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[Joel Aronson]

yanmars do not.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On May 16, 2013, at 7:58 AM, David Risch  wrote:

 OK...I gotta ask.

I have a 1981 3QM30.  Purrs like a kitten.

No glow plug.  Start up cold just fine.  Just a few more cranks.Before
this engine  I thought all diesels had glow plugs.

What gives?


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


--
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 04:07:54 +
From: cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

David,
The glow plugs are only needed when the engine is cold.  I hold that glow
plug button for at least 30secs.  Rule of Thumb: Take 100, subtract the
water temp and hold it for those seconds, and you should be good for a
first try.  If the water is 40 F, hold the button for 60 seconds.  If the
water is 70, hold for 30 seconds.   Count 1000 one, 1000 two and so on, or
use a watch.

Once the engine starts and has warmed up, we go sailing, shutdown the
engine and later I restart the engine without needing glowplugs.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
--
*From: *"David Knecht" 
*To: *"CnC CnC discussion list" 
*Sent: *Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:51:50 PM
*Subject: *Stus-List Starting a Universal

I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and
I have been told several different stories.  One person said to hold the
glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start.  Another said 30 seconds
on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the
starter.  The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the
winter while plugged into shore power.  Yesterday I started it for the
first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at
all if I started while also holding the glow plug button.  Started find
when I let go the glow plug button.  What is the "normal" starting
procedure with a cold engine in cool weather.  Warm weather?  Warm engine?
 Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

[David Risch]

OK...I gotta ask.

I have a 1981 3QM30.  Purrs like a kitten.

No glow plug.  Start up cold just fine.  Just a few more cranks.Before this 
engine  I thought all diesels had glow plugs.

What gives?


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 04:07:54 +
From: cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal

David,
The glow plugs are only needed when the engine is cold.  I hold that glow plug 
button for at least 30secs.  Rule of Thumb: Take 100, subtract the water temp 
and hold it for those seconds, and you should be good for a first try.  If the 
water is 40 F, hold the button for 60 seconds.  If the water is 70, hold for 30 
seconds.   Count 1000 one, 1000 two and so on, or use a watch.   

Once the engine starts and has warmed up, we go sailing, shutdown the engine 
and later I restart the engine without needing glowplugs.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:51:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal

I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I 
have been told several different stories.  One person said to hold the glow 
plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start.  Another said 30 seconds on the 
glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter.  The 
latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while 
plugged into shore power.  Yesterday I started it for the first time without 
shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while 
also holding the glow plug button.  Started find when I let go the glow plug 
button.  What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold engine in cool 
weather.  Warm weather?  Warm engine?  Thanks- Dave


David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT



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