Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without an engine?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

In my olden days as a member of the Yacht Club's Executive Committee, 
business was brought forth to propose that sailboats must use engines 
in the marina (or something to that effect).  I pointed out that 
engines are auxiliary power on sailboats and if we are to endorse 
this business I will push that ALL vessels operating in the marina 
are required to use auxiliary power.


That was the end of discussion.

Good times.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1




At 07:42 PM 27/08/2014, you wrote:

In the olden days, when I was getting my skippers certificate, we 
had to do all the manoeuvres, including getting in and out of the 
slip, without the use of the engine (and then again using it). But 
that art is gone. Now, if I tried to dock under sail there would be 
a crowd with pitchforks awaiting me on the dock (possibly with some 
boiling tar and a few (Canada) gees on the side).


Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:33 PM
To: Jerome Tauber; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

Under the watchful and at times frightened eyes of my neighbors, I 
have been routinely sailing into the slip without turning on the good 2QM.


Phase II: Learn how to get out of the slip under sail...

Cheers,
Aaron R.
1979 30-MK1
Annapolis, MD

On Aug 27, 2014, at 4:09 PM, "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I thought C&C owners only use their engines to get in and out of 
docks. Jerry. C&C 27v J&J


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2014, at 3:00 PM, David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Curious...is all the effort worth it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Stus-List Sailing in - was Re: Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[M Bod via CnC-List]

I couldn't imagine it where I am now - Deep Cove is at the end of a 1km long 
narrow high sided channel, wind funnels down its length. Short tacking would be 
and understatement at 100-200ft from shore to shore.
Maybe some day I'll gain the confidence.

Remember back to my sailing school days. A friends father, an experienced 
professional ocean racer with only 2 14yr olds for crew, offered a tow to a 
young lady on a sailboard. Under full sail towed her right down the length of 
the fairway at the Hamilton Yacht Club, turned the Thunderbird 180 at the end 
and tipped his hat as we passed her heading back out.

Guess my cajones have not grown in fully yet cause I'm not ready to try that 
one.

Mark

On 28 Aug 2014 00:07, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> Funny, I sailed a Catalina 25 into port on a broad reach.  Lots of 
> maneuverability!  While still in the fareway a little marina girl came 
> promptly running out telling us we couldn't sail in the marina.  No pitchfork 
> though.  Definitely a lost art.
>
> Josh
>
> On Aug 27, 2014 10:41 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
>>
>> In the olden days, when I was getting my skipper’s certificate, we had to do 
>> all the manoeuvres, including getting in and out of the slip, without the 
>> use of the engine (and then again using it). But that art is gone. Now, if I 
>> tried to dock under sail there would be a crowd with pitchforks awaiting me 
>> on the dock (possibly with some boiling tar and a few (Canada) gees on the 
>> side).
>>
>>  
>>
>> Marek
>>
>>  
>>
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron 
>> Rouhi via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:33 PM
>> To: Jerome Tauber; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
>>
>>  
>>
>> Under the watchful and at times frightened eyes of my neighbors, I have been 
>> routinely sailing into the slip without turning on the good 2QM.
>>
>>  
>>
>> Phase II: Learn how to get out of the slip under sail...
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Aaron R.
>>
>> 1979 30-MK1
>>
>> Annapolis, MD
>>
>>
>> On Aug 27, 2014, at 4:09 PM, "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>>>
>>> I thought C&C owners only use their engines to get in and out of docks.     
>>> Jerry. C&C 27v J&J
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 27, 2014, at 3:00 PM, David via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:

 Curious...is all the effort worth it?

 David F. Risch
 1981 40-2
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)

 

 Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
 To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much 
 cheaper.


 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C&C 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

  

 On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
 wrote:

 The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it 
 I left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown 
 distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included 
 mylar tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They 
 are aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or 
 screwed in place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray 
 adhesive which I sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the 
 tack pins and then install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the 
 corners with more mylar tape.  Done.

 Pictures upon request.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD

 On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List" 
  wrote:
>
> I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible 
> parts of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West 
> Marine. However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in 
> my 30 MKII. Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very 
> difficult. I am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the 
> sides of the engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this 
> would be a big mistake?
>
>  
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Funny, I sailed a Catalina 25 into port on a broad reach.  Lots of
maneuverability!  While still in the fareway a little marina girl came
promptly running out telling us we couldn't sail in the marina.  No
pitchfork though.  Definitely a lost art.

Josh
On Aug 27, 2014 10:41 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In the olden days, when I was getting my skipper's certificate, we had to
> do all the manoeuvres, including getting in and out of the slip, without
> the use of the engine (and then again using it). But that art is gone. Now,
> if I tried to dock under sail there would be a crowd with pitchforks
> awaiting me on the dock (possibly with some boiling tar and a few (Canada)
> gees on the side).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Aaron
> Rouhi via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:33 PM
> *To:* Jerome Tauber; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
>
>
>
> Under the watchful and at times frightened eyes of my neighbors, I have
> been routinely sailing into the slip without turning on the good 2QM.
>
>
>
> Phase II: Learn how to get out of the slip under sail...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Aaron R.
>
> 1979 30-MK1
>
> Annapolis, MD
>
>
> On Aug 27, 2014, at 4:09 PM, "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I thought C&C owners only use their engines to get in and out of docks.
>   Jerry. C&C 27v J&J
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Aug 27, 2014, at 3:00 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Curious...is all the effort worth it?
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> --
>
> Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
> To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much
> cheaper.
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
> On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it
> I left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown
> distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included
> mylar tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They
> are aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or
> screwed in place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive
> which I sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins
> and then install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with
> more mylar tape.  Done.
>
> Pictures upon request.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible
> parts of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine.
> However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII.
> Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I
> am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the
> engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big
> mistake?
>
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

In the olden days, when I was getting my skipper’s certificate, we had to do 
all the manoeuvres, including getting in and out of the slip, without the use 
of the engine (and then again using it). But that art is gone. Now, if I tried 
to dock under sail there would be a crowd with pitchforks awaiting me on the 
dock (possibly with some boiling tar and a few (Canada) gees on the side).

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:33 PM
To: Jerome Tauber; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

 

Under the watchful and at times frightened eyes of my neighbors, I have been 
routinely sailing into the slip without turning on the good 2QM.

 

Phase II: Learn how to get out of the slip under sail...

Cheers,

Aaron R.

1979 30-MK1

Annapolis, MD


On Aug 27, 2014, at 4:09 PM, "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

I thought C&C owners only use their engines to get in and out of docks. 
Jerry. C&C 27v J&J

Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 27, 2014, at 3:00 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:

Curious...is all the effort worth it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much 
cheaper. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it I 
left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown distributing.  
I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included mylar tape to seal the 
raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They are aluminum and have a 
2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or screwed in place   I epoxied 
them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive which I sprayed after the epoxy 
was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins and then install the mounting 
washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with more mylar tape.  Done.

Pictures upon request.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts of 
my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine. However, 
there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. Getting new 
insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I am contemplating 
just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the engine compartment and 
going without. Does anyone think this would be a big mistake?

 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jim,

Is this available at Industrial Plastics?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1


At 11:13 AM 27/08/2014, you wrote:
Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to 
Silent Running but much cheaper.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on 
mine and when I re-did it I left them 
uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from 
jamestown distributing.  I cut and dry fit the 
foam panels and used the included mylar tape to 
seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack 
down pins.  They are aluminum and have a 2"x2" 
backer that is supposed to be nailed or screwed 
in place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came 
with a spray adhesive which I sprayed after the 
epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack 
pins and then install the mounting washers and 
caps.  Seal all the corners with more mylar tape.  Done.


Pictures upon request.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have replaced the old, crumbling sound 
insulation in the accessible parts of my engine 
compartment with new sound insulation from West 
Marine. However, there is almost no room on 
either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. Getting 
new insulation in along the sides is going to be 
very difficult. I am contemplating just taking 
out the old insulation from the sides of the 
engine compartment and going without. Does 
anyone think this would be a big mistake?


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Re: Stus-List varnishing

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Gentle heating with a heat gun will soften old varnish and paint making it 
easier to remove with the previously mentioned methods.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List varnishing

Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black of old 
varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to get a 
clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Under the watchful and at times frightened eyes of my neighbors, I have been 
routinely sailing into the slip without turning on the good 2QM.

Phase II: Learn how to get out of the slip under sail...

Cheers,
Aaron R.
1979 30-MK1
Annapolis, MD

> On Aug 27, 2014, at 4:09 PM, "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I thought C&C owners only use their engines to get in and out of docks. 
> Jerry. C&C 27v J&J
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 27, 2014, at 3:00 PM, David via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Curious...is all the effort worth it?
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> 
>> 
>> Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
>> To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much 
>> cheaper. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> 
>> On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it I 
>> left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown 
>> distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included mylar 
>> tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They are 
>> aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or screwed in 
>> place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive which I 
>> sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins and then 
>> install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with more mylar 
>> tape.  Done.
>> 
>> Pictures upon request.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts 
>> of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine. 
>> However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. 
>> Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I 
>> am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the 
>> engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big 
>> mistake?
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
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>> page at:
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>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Well when work starts on Monday and the Bay looks like a mirror, the button 
must be pushed ☹
On my boat the sound insulation did not much. Not sure I would buy it again.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 4:09 PM
To: David; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

I thought C&C owners only use their engines to get in and out of docks. 
Jerry. C&C 27v J&J

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2014, at 3:00 PM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Curious...is all the effort worth it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

As opposed to certain Beneteaus and Hunters which are only USED at the dock…   
:^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 27, 2014, at 3:09 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I thought C&C owners only use their engines to get in and out of docks. 
> Jerry. C&C 27v J&J

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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I thought C&C owners only use their engines to get in and out of docks. 
Jerry. C&C 27v J&J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 27, 2014, at 3:00 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Curious...is all the effort worth it?
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
> To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much 
> cheaper. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
> On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it I 
> left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown 
> distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included mylar 
> tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They are 
> aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or screwed in 
> place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive which I 
> sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins and then 
> install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with more mylar 
> tape.  Done.
> 
> Pictures upon request.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts 
> of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine. However, 
> there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. Getting 
> new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I am 
> contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the engine 
> compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big mistake?
> 
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Mother Nature is taking care of this problem for me - At my current rate of
hearing loss, I figure in a few years my engine will be just a whisper!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 3:01 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

 

Curious...is all the effort worth it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much
cheaper. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it I
left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown
distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included mylar
tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They are
aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or screwed in
place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive which I
sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins and then
install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with more mylar
tape.  Done.

Pictures upon request.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List"
 wrote:

I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts
of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine.
However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII.
Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I
am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the
engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big
mistake?

 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Prime Interest via CnC-List]

Some years ago while looking at Silent Running it looked like it was
manufactured by the same folks as QuietCoat ( see
http://www.quietrock.com/quietcoat ) which was a quarter of the cost and you
could special order it from Home Depot. They don't seem to carry it any
more. Also, it only came in black if you were looking at the one gallon
size.

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

cid:image001.jpg@01C8A05F.9AF64FF0
LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 3:01 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

 

Curious...is all the effort worth it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much
cheaper. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it I
left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown
distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included mylar
tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They are
aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or screwed in
place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive which I
sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins and then
install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with more mylar
tape.  Done.

Pictures upon request.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List"
 wrote:

I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts
of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine.
However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII.
Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I
am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the
engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big
mistake?

 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[David via CnC-List]

Curious...is all the effort worth it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much 
cheaper. 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC




On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it I 
left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown distributing.  
I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included mylar tape to seal the 
raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They are aluminum and have a 
2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or screwed in place   I epoxied 
them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive which I sprayed after the epoxy 
was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins and then install the mounting 
washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with more mylar tape.  Done.


Pictures upon request.
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD
On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts of 
my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine. However, 
there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. Getting new 
insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I am contemplating 
just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the engine compartment and 
going without. Does anyone think this would be a big mistake?



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Re: Stus-List varnishing

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

I also used ( pure ) vinegar to clean my teck.
For the varnish on the gelcoat, I would use Interlux 299E , was good to remove 
antifouling without harm to the gelcoat ( but smallest is a quart )

Sylvain
C&C27MkIII




 From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: 'Bev Parslow' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List varnishing
 


Bev,
 
I’ve had excellent results using a spray bottle with 50% clear vinegar & water. 
 The black stuff comes off with a soft brush.  Scrub perpendicular to the grain.
 
 
Regards,
Ron
Ronald V. Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
 
 
 


From:Bev Parslow [mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List varnishing
 
Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black of old 
varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to get a 
clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?

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Re: Stus-List varnishing

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bev,

 

I've had excellent results using a spray bottle with 50% clear vinegar &
water.  The black stuff comes off with a soft brush.  Scrub perpendicular to
the grain.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Bev Parslow [mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List varnishing

 

Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black of
old varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to get
a clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?

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Re: Stus-List varnishing

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

You mean actually on the deck fiberglass, as in stuff that leaked under 
the masking tape because it's nearly impossible to get a good seal on 
textured non-skid?


The citrus based strippers won't hurt fiberglass.  Under *no* 
circumstance would I recommend a strong stripper like Jabsco.  It will 
damage and raise the gelcoat.  Depending on the type of non-skid texture 
you have, you can weaken it with a citrus stripper and then pick at it.  
I have a set of sharp little picks, but can't recommend where you can 
find them these days.


Wal

you wrote:

Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black of old 
varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to get a 
clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?



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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much
cheaper.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it
> I left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown
> distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included
> mylar tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They
> are aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or
> screwed in place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive
> which I sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins
> and then install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with
> more mylar tape.  Done.
>
> Pictures upon request.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible
>> parts of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine.
>> However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII.
>> Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I
>> am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the
>> engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big
>> mistake?
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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> page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List varnishing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Mr. Clean Magic Erasers are pretty amazing.  Try that first.

You might also try smith's clear penetrating epoxy to seal the wood before
varnishing.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 27, 2014 10:46 AM, "Bev Parslow via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black
> of old varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to
> get a clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List varnishing

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Try regular laundry bleach first. Then you may have to carefully work with
a sharp chisel to get the old varnish off.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine



On Wed, Aug 27, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black
> of old varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to
> get a clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List varnishing

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Have you tried a good sharp scraper?

-- Original Message --
From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List varnishing
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 07:46:20 -0700


Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black of old 
varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to get a 
clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?___
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Stus-List varnishing

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black of old 
varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to get a 
clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?___
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it
I left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown
distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included
mylar tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They
are aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or
screwed in place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive
which I sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins
and then install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with
more mylar tape.  Done.

Pictures upon request.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible
> parts of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine.
> However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII.
> Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I
> am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the
> engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big
> mistake?
>
> ___
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>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

As well as or instead of fender washers, consider wooden battens to hold
the foam in place.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


On Wed, Aug 27, 2014 at 9:17 AM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW – Gluing is not all that.  I used the same stuff and the glue for the
> job isn’t worth the price of it.  I ended up having to screw it in using
> short screws and fender washers…
>
>
>
> Neil
>
> FoxFire – C&C32
>
> Worton Creek, MD
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John
> Russo via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:19 AM
> *To:* 'RPH'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
>
>
>
> Robert,
>
>
>
> If you ever do decide to install new insulation I can share a few tricks
> to make it easier as I re-insulated the compartment in my C&C 32 last year.
>
>
>
> I used material purchased from Defender which is reflective containing
> foam and rubber and lead which is impossible to drill holes in for mounting
> and the compartment does not allow room to swing a hammer to mount with the
> usual mounting hardware.
>
> If I ever did it again I would glue the stuff in.
>
>
>
> Anyhow, I tore the old stuff out and left in the mounting screws then made
> cardboard templets of the foam patters and put a  small amount of paint or
> magic marker on each screw head and pressed the cardboard in place. This
> gave me screw locations for the pattern and insulation. I then laid the
> pattern on the insulation to cut to shape and transferred the holes to the
> insulation using a small soldering Iron which burned through the insulation
> foam and rubber. A drill caught and twisted the foam and got caught messing
> up the insulation and took a lot of time removing. Then remove all the
> screws in the sides of the engine compartment and mount the insulation with
> fender washers on the  old screws. I then used metal backed duct tape on
> the ends and any joints of the insulation. See Arpeggio1984.info, web site
> under Projects 2013 for results. Looks and works good!
>
>
>
> John
>
> Arpeggio
>
> C&C 32 1984
>
> Norwalk, CT
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *RPH via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 27, 2014 2:43 AM
> *To:* Robert Hrabinsky; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
>
>
>
> Update: Tonight I removed the sound insulation from the sides of the
> engine compartment. Let me tell you - it was a dirty mess. Surprisingly, it
> is possible for a substance to be both dusty and oily at the same time. On
> the bright side, after removing the old, crumbling insulation I was able to
> give the little Yanmar and the engine compartment a good cleaning. It looks
> 100% better now and I think it will be easier to keep the engine clean.
>
>
>
> I can't report on the noise yet as I'm waiting on an exhaust elbow at the
> moment. Even if it's a little noisier under power, I think that it may be
> worth it just to have a little more room in the engine compartment (it's
> amazing what an extra couple of inches can give you in a cramped space) .
> On the other hand, if the racket proves to be intolerable, I'll report back
> with a warning to others who might be contemplating taking the same steps.
>
>
>
> Thanks to everyone for the helpful feedback.
>
>
>
> Robert H.
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List 
> Date: 08-26-2014 9:28 AM (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
>
> I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible
> parts of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine.
> However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII.
> Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I
> am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the
> engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big
> mistake?
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

FWIW – Gluing is not all that.  I used the same stuff and the glue for the job 
isn’t worth the price of it.  I ended up having to screw it in using short 
screws and fender washers…

 

Neil

FoxFire – C&C32

Worton Creek, MD

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:19 AM
To: 'RPH'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

 

Robert,

 

If you ever do decide to install new insulation I can share a few tricks to 
make it easier as I re-insulated the compartment in my C&C 32 last year.

 

I used material purchased from Defender which is reflective containing foam and 
rubber and lead which is impossible to drill holes in for mounting and the 
compartment does not allow room to swing a hammer to mount with the usual 
mounting hardware.

If I ever did it again I would glue the stuff in.

 

Anyhow, I tore the old stuff out and left in the mounting screws then made 
cardboard templets of the foam patters and put a  small amount of paint or 
magic marker on each screw head and pressed the cardboard in place. This gave 
me screw locations for the pattern and insulation. I then laid the pattern on 
the insulation to cut to shape and transferred the holes to the insulation 
using a small soldering Iron which burned through the insulation foam and 
rubber. A drill caught and twisted the foam and got caught messing up the 
insulation and took a lot of time removing. Then remove all the screws in the 
sides of the engine compartment and mount the insulation with fender washers on 
the  old screws. I then used metal backed duct tape on the ends and any joints 
of the insulation. See Arpeggio1984.info, web site under Projects 2013 for 
results. Looks and works good! 

 

John

Arpeggio

C&C 32 1984

Norwalk, CT 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RPH via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 2:43 AM
To: Robert Hrabinsky; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

 

Update: Tonight I removed the sound insulation from the sides of the engine 
compartment. Let me tell you - it was a dirty mess. Surprisingly, it is 
possible for a substance to be both dusty and oily at the same time. On the 
bright side, after removing the old, crumbling insulation I was able to give 
the little Yanmar and the engine compartment a good cleaning. It looks 100% 
better now and I think it will be easier to keep the engine clean.

 

I can't report on the noise yet as I'm waiting on an exhaust elbow at the 
moment. Even if it's a little noisier under power, I think that it may be worth 
it just to have a little more room in the engine compartment (it's amazing what 
an extra couple of inches can give you in a cramped space) . On the other hand, 
if the racket proves to be intolerable, I'll report back with a warning to 
others who might be contemplating taking the same steps. 

 

Thanks to everyone for the helpful feedback. 

 

Robert H. 



 Original message 
From: Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List  
Date: 08-26-2014 9:28 AM (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without? 

I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts of 
my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine. However, 
there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. Getting new 
insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I am contemplating 
just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the engine compartment and 
going without. Does anyone think this would be a big mistake?

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Re: Stus-List CNC 115 Shorthanded Sailers

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick

 

Let me elaborate a bit.

 

First of all the Frers 33 is a Carroll Marine built German Frers designed 
performance boat that has a decent interior.  Of the Carroll built boats the 
Frers line was the only one I am aware of that had the “cruiser” side of the 
racing.  The rest were pretty much pure race boats .. Tripp, Nelson Marek and I 
think 1D35.  Of these I think the Nelson Marek are the prettiest boats but of 
course none of those is designed to spend much time aboard.  This is the 
pedigree so the Frers is a racer with cruising amenities .. pretty much like 
the C&C designs in the 70s were – performance with an interior.  Hard to find 
these days in anything less than 36 feet with modern boats.

 

My previous boats (Niagara 26 and J27) had transom hung rudders with what can 
best be called a “poop deck” between the rudder and cockpit.  This meant that 
the tiller did not intrude too far into the cockpit in the manner that rudders 
on posts do with tillers by necessity.  Each of these boats also had a traveler 
mid cockpit toward aft end.  The absolute benefit of this arrangement is that 
it keeps other people out of the helm person area which is very nice when 
tacking etc …   The other two boats I sail and race on regularly are C&C 115 
and to lesser extent the C&C 99.  Each of these boats also has the mid cockpit 
traveler located immediately forward of wheel.  This arrangement takes no space 
at all away from others in the boat as the large destroyer wheel has already 
effectively done this.  By contrast the bridge deck takes away the forward 12 – 
15 inches of the cockpit and is definitely in the way of guests and sailors in 
the cockpit.  It also makes for a steeper set of stairs/ladder into the boat.  
Given a choice I would always opt for mid cockpit traveler.  Oh well.  
Something to get used to.

 

Regarding travelers.  On the Niagara, the J and the C&C115 the boats are 
fractional rigs with large mainsails.  In each case it is extremely important 
to play the traveler in puffs.  Esp when racing or even when reaching the 
traveler should rarely be cleated.  This is not for a 1/10 of a knot but more 
like ½ a knot or more.  On the 115 in particular the traveler is extremely 
important and on windy days we may even have one person on traveler, one on 
sheet and have those two working with driver to keep the boat flat and fast.  
Is very useful to have the main trimmer(s) beside the helmsman.  On the 99 2 
persons are never needed on sheet and traveler but again the traveler should 
not be locked in place on gusty days and in a pinch the helm can lower the 
traveler if needed from helm position.

 

Sorry for the long email.  Am trying to determine how best to sail this boat 
effectively as it is very different from what I am used to with a masthead rig 
etc … Main controls and jib controls differ as well (backstay, check stays, 
etc…).  We do have a nice auto helm (Raymarine 6002) and can use that as 
described by many, also the primaries are on aft end of winch pad (bad for 
racing but good for short handed) and are electric as well so the helm can 
control jib and if traveler is centered can easily single hand.  (second set of 
primaries being installed in proper location next week as well).  I have to get 
used to the boat a bit more to determine how much power is required to be 
dumped from main in puffs in relation to genoa (genoa seems to be a big driver 
of this design) and therefore if traveler is as important for everyday sailing 
as on the boats I am used to etc …

 

Interesting conversation.  Think we need to sail the boat without passengers a 
bit more (deliveries do not count as sailing) and also race it fully crewed.  

 

A fun challenge

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2014 11:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNC 115 Shorthanded Sailers

 

Mike, 

 

I would buy into Josh's rule of thumb for a light air boat: that it should go 
upwind at about half of the apparent wind speed. But to me, light air is less 
than 6 knots or so true. So we're talking about getting boat speeds of 3 or 4 
knots upwind in apparent winds of up to 8 or 9. Or ghosting along on a reach in 
winds of 1 or 2.

 

If I was looking for a boat to race in those conditions it would be a 
Wavelength, a Lindenburg 26, or a San Juan 21. Definitely not a cruising boat 
among them.

 

I've sailed a number of boats with tillers and aft travelers. My 25 has that 
arrangement. It is great for racing with small crew or for single handing. But 
when you have guests aboard, or want to enjoy a relaxing sail, some 
conversation, and a couple of sundowners that arrangement is not so desirable. 
The mid cockpit traveler is a pain in the...well, the knee...and the tiller 
takes up cockpit space better used for lounging unless it can be lifted and 
tied to a backstay.

 

If you

Re: Stus-List East River trip

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

None that I've encountered. Even around the bridges they seem to have relaxed. 
Of course by LGA they are still a bit fussy.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 27, 2014, at 7:24, Ebay via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Planning a trip down to Jersey City in a few weeks.  I've probably done the 
> run from LI Sound to Jersey 20 times - but not in the past 8 years.
> 
> Anyone have current information on security zones, etc?
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Stus-List East River trip

[Ebay via CnC-List]

Planning a trip down to Jersey City in a few weeks.  I've probably done the run 
from LI Sound to Jersey 20 times - but not in the past 8 years.

Anyone have current information on security zones, etc?

John


Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Robert,

 

If you ever do decide to install new insulation I can share a few tricks to 
make it easier as I re-insulated the compartment in my C&C 32 last year.

 

I used material purchased from Defender which is reflective containing foam and 
rubber and lead which is impossible to drill holes in for mounting and the 
compartment does not allow room to swing a hammer to mount with the usual 
mounting hardware.

If I ever did it again I would glue the stuff in.

 

Anyhow, I tore the old stuff out and left in the mounting screws then made 
cardboard templets of the foam patters and put a  small amount of paint or 
magic marker on each screw head and pressed the cardboard in place. This gave 
me screw locations for the pattern and insulation. I then laid the pattern on 
the insulation to cut to shape and transferred the holes to the insulation 
using a small soldering Iron which burned through the insulation foam and 
rubber. A drill caught and twisted the foam and got caught messing up the 
insulation and took a lot of time removing. Then remove all the screws in the 
sides of the engine compartment and mount the insulation with fender washers on 
the  old screws. I then used metal backed duct tape on the ends and any joints 
of the insulation. See Arpeggio1984.info, web site under Projects 2013 for 
results. Looks and works good! 

 

John

Arpeggio

C&C 32 1984

Norwalk, CT 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RPH via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 2:43 AM
To: Robert Hrabinsky; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

 

Update: Tonight I removed the sound insulation from the sides of the engine 
compartment. Let me tell you - it was a dirty mess. Surprisingly, it is 
possible for a substance to be both dusty and oily at the same time. On the 
bright side, after removing the old, crumbling insulation I was able to give 
the little Yanmar and the engine compartment a good cleaning. It looks 100% 
better now and I think it will be easier to keep the engine clean.

 

I can't report on the noise yet as I'm waiting on an exhaust elbow at the 
moment. Even if it's a little noisier under power, I think that it may be worth 
it just to have a little more room in the engine compartment (it's amazing what 
an extra couple of inches can give you in a cramped space) . On the other hand, 
if the racket proves to be intolerable, I'll report back with a warning to 
others who might be contemplating taking the same steps. 

 

Thanks to everyone for the helpful feedback. 

 

Robert H. 



 Original message 
From: Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List  
Date: 08-26-2014 9:28 AM (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without? 

I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts of 
my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine. However, 
there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. Getting new 
insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I am contemplating 
just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the engine compartment and 
going without. Does anyone think this would be a big mistake?

___
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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Soundproofing?
  
  http://www.silentrunning.us/
  
http://www.silentrunning.us/Professional_Boat_Builder_SR_Article.pdf
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 8/27/2014 2:42 AM, RPH via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Update: Tonight I removed the sound insulation from the sides
of the engine compartment. Let me tell you - it was a dirty
mess. Surprisingly, it is possible for a substance to be both
dusty and oily at the same time. On the bright side, after
removing the old, crumbling insulation I was able to give the
little Yanmar and the engine compartment a good cleaning. It
looks 100% better now and I think it will be easier to keep the
engine clean.
  
  
  I can't report on the noise yet as I'm waiting on an exhaust
elbow at the moment. Even if it's a little noisier under power,
I think that it may be worth it just to have a little more room
in the engine compartment (it's amazing what an extra couple of
inches can give you in a cramped space) . On the other hand, if
the racket proves to be intolerable, I'll report back with a
warning to others who might be contemplating taking the same
steps. 
  
  
  Thanks to everyone for the helpful feedback. 
  
  
  Robert H. 
  


  


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