Stus-List Fwd: Re: Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!
From: Marek Dziedzic
To: Wally Bryant
CC:

For whatever it's worth, i fought a transmission oil leak for several weeks 
earlier this year only to find out that a little ($1.50) metal seal under the 
dipstick disintegrated and was no longer there. Eventually, i found a place 
somewhere in Seattle, where they carry all kinds of spare parts for Hurth (and 
ZF) transmissions. The postage was more than the parts. But they were nice 
enough to send it via a normal letter.

The place is called MER equipment (merequipment.com).

Marek


Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:

You didn't say what kind of transmission.  That's important.

I originally had a Hurth, and it always made a big klunk sound when
changing gears.  I bought a new one when I repowered, and the brand new
one makes a big klunk sound when changing gears.  The manual says that
one should not be hesitant when changing gears. Just throw it into place.

Regarding the 'klunk' I think that's just what they do.  The old one was
24 years old, and the new one has about 1200 hours on it, and I have no
problems with a big klunk.  I've come to love it.

The Hurth uses ATF.  Red Oil means ATF is leaking.  But where is it
leaking?  That's the puzzle.

I'll tell you a secret.  With my new (2000ish) Hurth tranny, I had a
huge problem with ATF fluid leaking.  I was really puzzled.  I ran it in
gear at the dock with lines tied up all over the place trying to figure
out where the leak was coming from.  I spent hours watching and trying
to understand.  Eventually I realized that it was coming from the little
vent hole at the top of the filler plug.  Then I spent a few weeks
thinking.  Hurth was bought by ZF a while ago.  The original hollow
dipstick had a little tiny hole drilled just below the top, and the new
dipstick didn't have that hole.  Thus, the only place for ATF fluid to
leak was out the vent.  I guess they tried to 'cost-reduce' it.  I took
a drill and put a new hole back where the old one was, and haven't had a
leak or a problem since, because the fluid that gets pushed up into the
filler tube now can leak back down over the gears.  Note that after
drilling the hole I went berserk flushing out the filler tube and
changed fluid three times within 20 hours of run time, because I didn't
want metal fragments in my tranny.

Gotta go.  I'm hungry.

Wal

you wrote:
> It us usually pretty normal for a pretty loud clunk when shifting from 
> neutral to forward or reversebut it hasn't slipped or failed.  yet...


--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

You didn't say what kind of transmission.  That's important.

I originally had a Hurth, and it always made a big klunk sound when 
changing gears.  I bought a new one when I repowered, and the brand new 
one makes a big klunk sound when changing gears.  The manual says that 
one should not be hesitant when changing gears. Just throw it into place.


Regarding the 'klunk' I think that's just what they do.  The old one was 
24 years old, and the new one has about 1200 hours on it, and I have no 
problems with a big klunk.  I've come to love it.


The Hurth uses ATF.  Red Oil means ATF is leaking.  But where is it 
leaking?  That's the puzzle.


I'll tell you a secret.  With my new (2000ish) Hurth tranny, I had a 
huge problem with ATF fluid leaking.  I was really puzzled.  I ran it in 
gear at the dock with lines tied up all over the place trying to figure 
out where the leak was coming from.  I spent hours watching and trying 
to understand.  Eventually I realized that it was coming from the little 
vent hole at the top of the filler plug.  Then I spent a few weeks 
thinking.  Hurth was bought by ZF a while ago.  The original hollow 
dipstick had a little tiny hole drilled just below the top, and the new 
dipstick didn't have that hole.  Thus, the only place for ATF fluid to 
leak was out the vent.  I guess they tried to 'cost-reduce' it.  I took 
a drill and put a new hole back where the old one was, and haven't had a 
leak or a problem since, because the fluid that gets pushed up into the 
filler tube now can leak back down over the gears.  Note that after 
drilling the hole I went berserk flushing out the filler tube and 
changed fluid three times within 20 hours of run time, because I didn't 
want metal fragments in my tranny.


Gotta go.  I'm hungry.

Wal

you wrote:

It us usually pretty normal for a pretty loud clunk when shifting from neutral 
to forward or reversebut it hasn't slipped or failed.  yet...



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

A few years ago when Satcom C was the leading edge of offshore communication a 
friend of mine emailed me as he sailing towards the Tuamotu Archipelago.  He 
asked for some diagnostic assistance as his radar was losing functions.  After 
some question and answer we determined the radar platform had flopped back and 
forth until several of the radar cable's conductor's stress cracked at the 
bending point.  It was not a Questus pole/mount but a lower cost platform with 
an undersized stabilizer.

Once we determined it was the cable, my recommendation was to re-solder the 
failed conductors and lock the platform to prevent further damage.  It was 
difficult for him to do the work underway but the concern over un-charted reefs 
was good incentive to persevere.

Calypso's radar platform uses a power boat trim tab actuator controlled by a 
switch for altering its angle.  The cable experiences very little bending 
motion.  We can match the radar antenna to the boat's average angle of heel if 
needed.  We did not change it from level during our trip around Vancouver 
Island.  The adjustment would mostly be helpful on long offshore tacks.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Paal 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 5:17 PM
To: dwight; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

let us know in a year or so how well it is holding up.  I would not trust 
twisted wires in my home...

But, Good Luck!

Leslie.
used to listen/talk to spacecraft a few million miles away.

On Wed, 9/3/14, dwight via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question
 To: "'Martin DeYoung'" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Wednesday, September 3, 2014, 11:29 AM
 
 My old Furuno 1720 radar
 has about 13 conductors, some the same color but  different thicknesses...I 
spliced them all  together just by twisting the  central wires  together and 
taping the joints...takes a fair bit of time  but  my signal is my better and 
much more  reliable than the old connector pieces  that  were supplied with the 
cable.  The joint section is inside  the boat  under the settee near the base 
of  the mast with several feet of wire to  spare  on either side so I could do 
this work in good light and  without  contorting my body totally out of  
shape...no need for shrink warp because  the  joint is dry inside the cabin...I 
feel this was easier than  installing  a proper connector similar to  that 
which came with the radar unit and the  repair has never failed me.
 
 Dwight Veinot
 C&C 35MKII,
 Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay,
 NS

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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I have used those throughout, and folks ask me what kind of radio I have 
because I get reception beyond physical limits. It's not about the 
radio, it's about the wire and connections. Really.


Fred wrote:

Mike — if it’s RG58 cable, try one of these Shakespeare solderless butt splices:

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028695|2029069&id=181454

That should do the trick.



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Stus-List Yanmar Gear Box Mislabeled

[Martin Kane via CnC-List]

I've owned a C&C 29-2, with the 2GM engine and KM2-A gearbox for the past
three years. Initially the Yanmar tach would show 2200 rom at WOT in gear
and about 3400 in neutral at WOT. In year 2 I replaced the installed 14X9
three blade with a 15X10 folding prop that was spare.  WOT rpms in gear
decreased by a small amount. In year three I installed a 13 x 7 Campbell
Sailor. WOT rpms increased to 2500 (as measured by Yanmar tach). 

I advised the prop supplier that based on the Yanmar tach and a laser tach
that the engine was still not able to reach the appropriate WOT rpms. They
offered to resize the prop, but mentioned that the 13x7 prop had produced
good results for other owners. Given that info I decided to find out why I
was "different" before sending the prop back for rework and proceeded to
measure the rpms of the engine and prop shaft at different speeds with a
laser tach.

The answer is that even though the gearbox plate has ratio of 2.62 stamped
on it. The actual ratio as determined by comparing crankshaft rpm to prop
shaft rpm, is 2.21. This ratio was also confirmed by turning the crankshaft
by hand and observing the prop shaft. So it appears that the gearbox is
mislabelled. The only possible hint of this is that the 2.62 has an X
stamped through it.

I'm posting this in case it helps other listers dealing with an overpropped
situation and to see if anyone has ever heard of this happening before.

I don't know if the PO had the gearbox rebuilt or if is even possible to
switch one or more gears to change the ratio from 2.62 to 2.21


Martin 
C&C29-2 
Recalculating
Mimico Cruising Club



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Re: Stus-List Wine Glasses

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Bill wrote:

A year or so ago someone on the list mentioned some nice Break Resistant
wine glasses, and I forwarded the info to my Trawler buddy, who bought them. 



Ha.  Even when I lived on land I didn't trust Stem Ware.  The Center of 
Gravity is just too high.  


You can drink wine out of a plastic tumbler, and it tastes just the 
same. The Center of Effort is much lower.  


I don't have anything glass on the boat.  The exception is the four 
Mexican shot glasses, which have an honored Sunbrella holder screwed 
into the inside of one of the galley cabinets.  I've had those shot 
glasses for 20 years, and they're hand blown and the glass is 1/4" 
thick.  Truthfully, I've lost two in the last few years.  One went 
overboard, *after* I explained to someone that we were on a boat and one 
had to always think about where things will slide if the boat rocks.  
(You can't imagine how many people don't understand the concept of 
rocking the boat, and think that solar panels are tables just because 
they kinda-sorta look like one.)  The other one hit the main cabin sole 
and shattered into a thousand shards, and that was a super bummer.


I don't even like those big plastic wine glasses that you can (or could) 
get at West Marine.  Heck, someone gave me four of them as a gift, so I 
built a whole wine rack into my boat.  They still fall over, and after 
about seven years the stem falls off.  I thought about gluing them back 
on with JB-Weld, but sometimes you just have to call it a day.


Wal



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Re: Stus-List Wine Glasses

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have a set of 6 of the stemless acrylic glasses similar to those in Joel’s 
link. They work fine for casual wine consumption, and also make pretty good 
tumblers for mixed drinks. Not one has broken so far.

 

I also have 4 more traditional wine glasses made of acrylic that hang in a teak 
wineglass rack mounted above the short bulkhead between the galley and the 
salon/dining table. They are nicer for more “formal” meals, but I think the 
stems will break off eventually.

 

I know it’s extra weight and slows me down when racing. So does the liquor 
locker in the top of the dining table. But we all have our priorities…

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 7:12 PM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wine Glasses

 

Plain, yet functional: 
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/1/3/unbreakable-wine-glasses

 

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 6:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Were they Kwarx crystal?  I might have posted couple years ago about getting 
some Bed, Bath & Beyond store brand stemware in Kwarx.  Put 4 on the boat 
several years ago.  3 still survive.

They were identical to a Mikasa pattern.  Just looked.  Can't seem to find them 
now.

Closest I could find was these:  http://www.lionsdeal.com/ca-u1009.html?src=ri

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

A year or so ago someone on the list mentioned some nice Break Resistant wine 
glasses, and I forwarded the info to my Trawler buddy, who bought them.

Last week while lounging with many other boats listening to a concert (on said 
Trawler)some jerk in a cigarette boat kept roaring in and out of the field and 
rocking the s#%it out everyone, the first time knocked a bottle of wine on the 
sole, the third time the cupboard doors came open and a couple of those wine 
glasses came tumbling down.  I guess they are not unbreakable.  Anyways, he 
can’t figure where he bought them. If anyone remembers this, I would appreciate 
the link.

 

Thanks,

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

let us know in a year or so how well it is holding up.  I would not trust 
twisted wires in my home...

But, Good Luck!

Leslie.
used to listen/talk to spacecraft a few million miles away.

On Wed, 9/3/14, dwight via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question
 To: "'Martin DeYoung'" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Wednesday, September 3, 2014, 11:29 AM
 
 My old Furuno 1720 radar
 has about 13 conductors, some the same color but
 different thickenesses...I spliced them all
 together just by twisting the
 central wires
 together and taping the joints...takes a fair bit of time
 but
 my signal is my better and much more
 reliable than the old connector pieces
 that
 were supplied with the cable.  The joint section is inside
 the boat
 under the settee near the base of
 the mast with several feet of wire to
 spare
 on either side so I could do this work in good light and
 without
 contorting my body totally out of
 shape...no need for shrink warp because
 the
 joint is dry inside the cabin...I feel this was easier than
 insatalling
 a proper connector similar to
 that which came with the radar unit and the
 repair has never failed me.
 
 Dwight Veinot
 C&C 35MKII,
 Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay,
 NS
  
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Martin
 DeYoung via CnC-List
 Sent: September 3, 2014 2:29 PM
 To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup
 question
 
 Using good quality
 and correctly installed BNC connectors should allow
 enough signal to reach the receiver.  There
 are some good tutorials on the
 interwebs on
 how to install a BNC connector.
 
 Adding a splice or connector to coax can
 degrade the signal strength but the
 better
 quality connectors are used all the time in other
 communication gear.
 Some cables are tuned. 
 You might see this on a depth sounder.  Some cables
 have many conductors (radar) and are difficult
 to splice.
 
 I would increase
 the price with the added feature of more installation
 options.
 
 Martin
 Calypso
 1971 C&C 43
 Seattle
 
 
 -Original
 Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Hoyt,
 Mike via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 10:21 AM
 To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net;
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List dummy move and followup
 question
 
 Our new to us boat
 came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with the
 GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much
 newer Garmin 740.  We decided
 to replace
 Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at Nav
 Station.  The
 antenna was still in
 place.
 
 I had posted the
 Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
 Unfortunately now that we have a liveable
 interior we also have headliners
 etc which
 are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While
 attempting to
 remove the Antenna I had the
 cable removed for about half its length after
 removing way to many access panels but it was
 stuck somewhere in the nether
 reaches of the
 boat.  One slightly too aggressive tug and I now have an
 antenna with two pieces of cable (much easier
 to remove by the way).
 
 So I
 have been reading about splicing GPS antenna cables.  This
 one is Coax
 style and there has been a lot
 of information that BNC ends and a barrel
 connector will work.  Does anyone (especially
 Fred) have experience and
 advice on this? 
 I think I may have just reduced my selling price to zero
 and may be making a gift of the unit to the
 potential buyer
 
 Mike
 
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Re: Stus-List Wine Glasses

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Probably not exactly what you're looking for but these are pretty cool.  I
have 4.  The stem unscrews and then snaps into the cup for storage.  Be
careful about sunscreen and bug spray though.

http://m.llbean.com/product.html?&page=nesting-wine-glass#63533

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 4, 2014 6:36 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  A year or so ago someone on the list mentioned some nice Break Resistant
> wine glasses, and I forwarded the info to my Trawler buddy, who bought them.
>
> Last week while lounging with many other boats listening to a concert (on
> said Trawler)some jerk in a cigarette boat kept roaring in and out of the
> field and rocking the s#%it out everyone, the first time knocked a bottle
> of wine on the sole, the third time the cupboard doors came open and a
> couple of those wine glasses came tumbling down.  I guess they are not
> unbreakable.  Anyways, he can't figure where he bought them. If anyone
> remembers this, I would appreciate the link.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39
>
>
>
>
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List TAZ

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi I'm out at cuttyhunk and I see a c&c named TAZ anchored here.  Is that 
someone from the list?

What a beautiful day! 

Danny
Lolita
Viking 33


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: allen via CnC-List  
Date: 09/04/2014  11:24 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Joel Aronson ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick! 
 
 I replaced the overhead fluorescent lights with LEDs of the same form factor.  
Reused the existing backing and fittings. Cheap, fast, worked great.  Also 
replaced the cabin sole lights with small LEDs.
 
Still assessing head sink lamp.  Probably replace with a red/white LED surface 
mount unit.
 
Out in the cockpit, I moved the AC shore power receptacle to the outside of the 
splash guard aft of the winch and placed an outdoor shower in the former 
location.  It's easier to attach dockside AC and the shower is accessible when 
you return from swimming after climbing the ladder.  Also nice for cooling off 
on those really hot sails.
 
Allen Miles
Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2014 4:15 PM
To: Danny Haughey ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!

I mounted mine on plywood.  
Joel

On Monday, September 1, 2014, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
have you tried cleaning with an acetone or a wax remover?

-- Original Message --
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
To: RPH , "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 12:40:36 -0700

Fwiw I've tried sticking led puck lights in my lazarette on our 30-2 and 
couldn't get anything to stick there either. I just finally gave upand 
stuck the adhesive with super glue from our med kit.

I also stuck one on the underside of our helm seat so that we can more easily 
connect our shore power when we come in after dark Which we do quite often, 
especially after dark in winter.

I am curious, did you connect the led s in lieu of the florescent fixtures 
located there or adjacent to them? I would be curious to hear what you've done 
for switching if it was the latter.

It's your 30-2 in the great lakes?

Best,
Kevin

Sent from my Tablet

On Sep 1, 2014 12:22 PM, "RPH via CnC-List"  wrote:
I already know that this is a stupid question and that I will be shamed by the 
(obvious) answer. 
 
Anyway, I attempted to install a couple of flexible led light strips in the 
overhead light recesses in the cabin of my 30-2. The lights are like these: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/optx-marine--flexible-heavy-duty-led-strip-lights-12--P012712865
 
Each overhead light recess has a translucent cover panel. Underneath the cover 
panel is the raw fibreglass side if the deck structure. 
 
The lights are supposed to be affixed using an adhesive backed tape. I tried 
the tape. I tried "industrial" Velcro. I tried "No More Nails" tape. Nothing 
will stick. By the next day, the light strips have detached. 
 
I did clean the raw fibreglass with Simple Green,  but I am now wondering 
whether there is something in the resin that is making this a hopeless 
exercise. 
 
Any tips or suggestions? 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wine Glasses

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Plain, yet functional:
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/1/3/unbreakable-wine-glasses


On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 6:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Were they Kwarx crystal?  I might have posted couple years ago about
> getting some Bed, Bath & Beyond store brand stemware in Kwarx.  Put 4 on
> the boat several years ago.  3 still survive.
>
> They were identical to a Mikasa pattern.  Just looked.  Can't seem to find
> them now.
>
> Closest I could find was these:
> http://www.lionsdeal.com/ca-u1009.html?src=ri
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  A year or so ago someone on the list mentioned some nice Break
>> Resistant wine glasses, and I forwarded the info to my Trawler buddy, who
>> bought them.
>>
>> Last week while lounging with many other boats listening to a concert (on
>> said Trawler)some jerk in a cigarette boat kept roaring in and out of the
>> field and rocking the s#%it out everyone, the first time knocked a bottle
>> of wine on the sole, the third time the cupboard doors came open and a
>> couple of those wine glasses came tumbling down.  I guess they are not
>> unbreakable.  Anyways, he can’t figure where he bought them. If anyone
>> remembers this, I would appreciate the link.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> C&C 39
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wine Glasses

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

OK, maybe they weren’t wine glasses, but that is what I think the talk was 
about. Obviously I am not a wine drinker.

They flared out, not like your link, more like a martini glass, but very thin, 
and not real big. 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: Dennis C. [mailto:capt...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 6:51 PM
To: Bill Coleman; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wine Glasses

 

Were they Kwarx crystal?  I might have posted couple years ago about getting 
some Bed, Bath & Beyond store brand stemware in Kwarx.  Put 4 on the boat 
several years ago.  3 still survive.

They were identical to a Mikasa pattern.  Just looked.  Can't seem to find them 
now.

Closest I could find was these:  http://www.lionsdeal.com/ca-u1009.html?src=ri

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

A year or so ago someone on the list mentioned some nice Break Resistant wine 
glasses, and I forwarded the info to my Trawler buddy, who bought them.

Last week while lounging with many other boats listening to a concert (on said 
Trawler)some jerk in a cigarette boat kept roaring in and out of the field and 
rocking the s#%it out everyone, the first time knocked a bottle of wine on the 
sole, the third time the cupboard doors came open and a couple of those wine 
glasses came tumbling down.  I guess they are not unbreakable.  Anyways, he 
can’t figure where he bought them. If anyone remembers this, I would appreciate 
the link.

 

Thanks,

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 


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Re: Stus-List Wine Glasses

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Were they Kwarx crystal?  I might have posted couple years ago about
getting some Bed, Bath & Beyond store brand stemware in Kwarx.  Put 4 on
the boat several years ago.  3 still survive.

They were identical to a Mikasa pattern.  Just looked.  Can't seem to find
them now.

Closest I could find was these:
http://www.lionsdeal.com/ca-u1009.html?src=ri

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  A year or so ago someone on the list mentioned some nice Break Resistant
> wine glasses, and I forwarded the info to my Trawler buddy, who bought them.
>
> Last week while lounging with many other boats listening to a concert (on
> said Trawler)some jerk in a cigarette boat kept roaring in and out of the
> field and rocking the s#%it out everyone, the first time knocked a bottle
> of wine on the sole, the third time the cupboard doors came open and a
> couple of those wine glasses came tumbling down.  I guess they are not
> unbreakable.  Anyways, he can’t figure where he bought them. If anyone
> remembers this, I would appreciate the link.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List Wine Glasses

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

A year or so ago someone on the list mentioned some nice Break Resistant
wine glasses, and I forwarded the info to my Trawler buddy, who bought them.

Last week while lounging with many other boats listening to a concert (on
said Trawler)some jerk in a cigarette boat kept roaring in and out of the
field and rocking the s#%it out everyone, the first time knocked a bottle of
wine on the sole, the third time the cupboard doors came open and a couple
of those wine glasses came tumbling down.  I guess they are not unbreakable.
Anyways, he can't figure where he bought them. If anyone remembers this, I
would appreciate the link.

 

Thanks,

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

Cool, I love to see those wacky IOR flying sails in action.


- Original Message -
From: "Jack Fitzgerald" 
To: "Paul Baker" , "C&CList" 
Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 1:57:55 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes


We race again in Oct. will post photos if we use the blooper... 




Jack Fitzgerald 
HONEY 
US12788\ 
C&C 39 TM 


On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 


Photos or it didn't happen Jack :) 

Cheers, 
Paul 
Orange Crush 
1974 C&C27 MkII 
Sidney, BC 

- Original Message - 
From: "Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "dwight" < dwight...@gmail.com >, "C&CList" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 1:35:55 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes 



I still have 2 bloopers for HONEY and we actually use them once or twice a 
year..Most folks down here have never seen one so we always lots of really 
weird questions  


Jack Fitzgerald 
HONEY 
US12788 
C&C 39 TM 

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:10 PM, dwight via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 






Thanks Martin 

I finally know why a Blooper was ever built for Alianna…I have one and she is 
not that different from the 70’s era C&C 39,,, I like the fun you guys had with 
the dipping contest 

  


Dwight Veinot 

C&C 35MKII, Alianna 

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 

  




From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List 
Sent: September 4, 2014 4:02 PM 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes 

  

When sailing downwind in offshore conditions (racing to Hawaii ) we would rig a 
line (preventer) from the near the bow to the aft end of the boom. The line 
would be long enough to allow the boom to swing in towards the center line 
without passing center. 

  

This was done to allow the boat to roll deep to leeward and not break the boom 
as it hit a wave.  In older IOR designs including the C&C 39 we would often fly 
a blooper to balance the spinnaker and allow deep downwind angles.  
Occasionally the watches would compete on who could alternate dipping the boom 
and pole tip the most times in a row. 

  

In the 1982 Vic-Maui one boat broke its boom by using a hard preventer at the 
same time as using the boom’s hitting the water as an aid to course correction. 

  

The boom and pole dipping contest did make it difficult for the off watch to 
eat spaghetti. 

  


Martin 

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43 

Seattle 


Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F 

  



From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 11:52 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes 

  

I agree with the jibe preventer comments.. 

Accidental jibes can get scary 

So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short distances..  
As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach / gybing instead 
of running..  So my danger was minimized. 

But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I 
picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's a 
Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I need 
to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle instead of 
controlling the jibe with the main sheet. 

http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/ 


Have you guys used one of those before?   


-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier , Georgia 



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Now we have to decide to which side of the spelling we pledge allegiance.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 4:26 PM
To: Rich Knowles; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

 

Yes.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jibe


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Sep 4, 2014, at 3:21 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List
 wrote:





Is it gybe or jibe??

Rich

 

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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

According to the Maritime Dictionary I picked up several years ago, Wikipedia 
is only partly right.

A jibe is when the sails of a square rigger luff or flutter when the wind blows 
on the front of the sails. This could be from a steering error, or an 
intentional steering action intended to us wind pressure to help adjust the 
angle of the spars. In my mind's eye I can see doing this when you want to 
change course from 10 points off the wind to only 8 points off the wind.

A gybe is a change in direction when running free (going down wind) which 
changes the direction of the wind from one side of the boat to the other by 
bringing the wind across the stern of the boat.

Wearing ship is the process of changing from one tack to the other when going 
upwind by turning off the wind and bringing the wind across the stern of the 
boat. It is an alternative to tacking (at which square riggers were pretty 
horrible). So wearing is done when going upwind, and gybing is done when going 
downwind. 

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 4, 2014, at 16:26, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jibe
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2014, at 3:21 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Is it gybe or jibe??
>> 
>> Rich
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

We race again in Oct. will post photos if we use the blooper...

Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
US12788\
C&C 39 TM


On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Photos or it didn't happen Jack :)
>
> Cheers,
> Paul
> Orange Crush
> 1974 C&C27 MkII
> Sidney, BC
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List" 
> To: "dwight" , "C&CList" 
> Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 1:35:55 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes
>
>
>
> I still have 2 bloopers for HONEY and we actually use them once or twice a
> year..Most folks down here have never seen one so we always lots of really
> weird questions
>
>
> Jack Fitzgerald
> HONEY
> US12788
> C&C 39 TM
>
> On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:10 PM, dwight via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks Martin
>
> I finally know why a Blooper was ever built for Alianna…I have one and she
> is not that different from the 70’s era C&C 39,,, I like the fun you guys
> had with the dipping contest
>
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of
> Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
> Sent: September 4, 2014 4:02 PM
> To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes
>
>
>
> When sailing downwind in offshore conditions (racing to Hawaii ) we would
> rig a line (preventer) from the near the bow to the aft end of the boom.
> The line would be long enough to allow the boom to swing in towards the
> center line without passing center.
>
>
>
> This was done to allow the boat to roll deep to leeward and not break the
> boom as it hit a wave.  In older IOR designs including the C&C 39 we would
> often fly a blooper to balance the spinnaker and allow deep downwind
> angles.  Occasionally the watches would compete on who could alternate
> dipping the boom and pole tip the most times in a row.
>
>
>
> In the 1982 Vic-Maui one boat broke its boom by using a hard preventer at
> the same time as using the boom’s hitting the water as an aid to course
> correction.
>
>
>
> The boom and pole dipping contest did make it difficult for the off watch
> to eat spaghetti.
>
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of
> Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 11:52 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes
>
>
>
> I agree with the jibe preventer comments..
>
> Accidental jibes can get scary
>
> So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short
> distances..  As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach /
> gybing instead of running..  So my danger was minimized.
>
> But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I
> picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's
> a Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I
> need to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle
> instead of controlling the jibe with the main sheet.
>
> http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/
>
>
> Have you guys used one of those before?
>
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier , Georgia
>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8146 - Release Date: 09/03/14
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 2104 C & C NE Rendezvous Dockage Form...

[PME via CnC-List]

especially those that will still be alive in 90 years. :-)


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 4, 2014, at 4:10 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 13:08:09 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: David , CnClist 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2104 C & C NE Rendezvous Dockage Form...
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> It's hard to find good volunteers.  :)
> 
> Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

Photos or it didn't happen Jack :)

Cheers,
Paul
Orange Crush
1974 C&C27 MkII
Sidney, BC

- Original Message -
From: "Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List" 
To: "dwight" , "C&CList" 
Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 1:35:55 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes



I still have 2 bloopers for HONEY and we actually use them once or twice a 
year..Most folks down here have never seen one so we always lots of really 
weird questions  


Jack Fitzgerald 
HONEY 
US12788 
C&C 39 TM 

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:10 PM, dwight via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 






Thanks Martin 

I finally know why a Blooper was ever built for Alianna…I have one and she is 
not that different from the 70’s era C&C 39,,, I like the fun you guys had with 
the dipping contest 

  


Dwight Veinot 

C&C 35MKII, Alianna 

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 

  




From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List 
Sent: September 4, 2014 4:02 PM 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes 

  

When sailing downwind in offshore conditions (racing to Hawaii ) we would rig a 
line (preventer) from the near the bow to the aft end of the boom. The line 
would be long enough to allow the boom to swing in towards the center line 
without passing center. 

  

This was done to allow the boat to roll deep to leeward and not break the boom 
as it hit a wave.  In older IOR designs including the C&C 39 we would often fly 
a blooper to balance the spinnaker and allow deep downwind angles.  
Occasionally the watches would compete on who could alternate dipping the boom 
and pole tip the most times in a row. 

  

In the 1982 Vic-Maui one boat broke its boom by using a hard preventer at the 
same time as using the boom’s hitting the water as an aid to course correction. 

  

The boom and pole dipping contest did make it difficult for the off watch to 
eat spaghetti. 

  


Martin 

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43 

Seattle 


Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

  



From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 11:52 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes 

  

I agree with the jibe preventer comments.. 

Accidental jibes can get scary 

So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short distances..  
As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach / gybing instead 
of running..  So my danger was minimized. 

But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I 
picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's a 
Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I need 
to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle instead of 
controlling the jibe with the main sheet. 

http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/ 


Have you guys used one of those before?   


-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier , Georgia 



No virus found in this message. 
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8146 - Release Date: 09/03/14 
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Long years of boating experience and careful observation have taught me one of 
life's truisms:

NEVER approach a dock faster than you intend ti hit it!

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 3, 2014, at 10:37, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> As a kid I was on a charter boat coming into the main pier in Gallilee RI on 
> a holiday weekend.  The skipper shifted into reverse and when nothing 
> happened  yelled LOOKOUT.  Tore off the bow rail.  If it were low tide the 
> cabin or flybridge would have stopped us!
> 
> Joel
> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

I still have 2 bloopers for HONEY and we actually use them once or twice a
year..Most folks down here have never seen one so we always lots of really
weird questions

Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
US12788
C&C 39 TM

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:10 PM, dwight via CnC-List 
wrote:

>   Thanks Martin
>
> I finally know why a Blooper was ever built for Alianna…I have one and she
> is not that different from the 70’s era C&C 39,,, I like the fun you guys
> had with the dipping contest
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Martin
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> *Sent:* September 4, 2014 4:02 PM
> *To:* Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes
>
>
>
> When sailing downwind in offshore conditions (racing to Hawaii) we would
> rig a line (preventer) from the near the bow to the aft end of the boom.
> The line would be long enough to allow the boom to swing in towards the
> center line without passing center.
>
>
>
> This was done to allow the boat to roll deep to leeward and not break the
> boom as it hit a wave.  In older IOR designs including the C&C 39 we would
> often fly a blooper to balance the spinnaker and allow deep downwind
> angles.  Occasionally the watches would compete on who could alternate
> dipping the boom and pole tip the most times in a row.
>
>
>
> In the 1982 Vic-Maui one boat broke its boom by using a hard preventer at
> the same time as using the boom’s hitting the water as an aid to course
> correction.
>
>
>
> The boom and pole dipping contest did make it difficult for the off watch
> to eat spaghetti.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Jean-Francois
> J Rivard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 04, 2014 11:52 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes
>
>
>
> I agree with the jibe preventer comments..
>
> Accidental jibes can get scary
>
> So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short
> distances..  As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach /
> gybing instead of running..  So my danger was minimized.
>
> But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I
> picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's
> a Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I
> need to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle
> instead of controlling the jibe with the main sheet.
>
> http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/
>
>
> Have you guys used one of those before?
>
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
>  --
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8146 - Release Date: 09/03/14
>
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>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Yes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jibe

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 4, 2014, at 3:21 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Is it gybe or jibe??
> 
> Rich

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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

Is it gybe or jibe??

Rich

> On Sep 4, 2014, at 17:07, dwight via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Please explain how you do these jibes, like do you tension the main sheet 
> before the jibe and if so when do you release and how much…timing is 
> important on my 35 MKII…I don’t like my mainsail chafing against my spreaders 
> or lower shrouds…that’s my limit on out and I don’t think I lose anything in 
> speed because I have that limit
>  
> As I said before I think the fastest way downwind with mast head rigged C&C’s 
> of the 70’s and 80’s is to pole the jib out to windward…spin pole and 
> associated control lines work very well to assist this…whoever on here said 
> that a much slower boat beat a much faster boat downwind by jibing instead of 
> running might consider that the respective boats might have experienced 
> somewhat different wind conditions…otherwise I don’t think that would happen 
> if both were well sailed boats of a similar design…the Melges boats for 
> example, broad reach very well downwind compared to the older C&C designs but 
> that sort of race is not a fair comparator anyway
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
> Sent: September 4, 2014 3:52 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes
>  
> I agree with the jibe preventer comments.. 
> 
> Accidental jibes can get scary
> 
> So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short distances.. 
>  As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach / gybing 
> instead of running..  So my danger was minimized. 
> 
> But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I 
> picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's a 
> Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I need 
> to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle instead 
> of controlling the jibe with the main sheet.
> 
> http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/
> 
> Have you guys used one of those before?  
> 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8146 - Release Date: 09/03/14
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> at:
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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[dwight via CnC-List]

Thanks Martin

I finally know why a Blooper was ever built for Alianna.I have one and she
is not that different from the 70's era C&C 39,,, I like the fun you guys
had with the dipping contest

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: September 4, 2014 4:02 PM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

 

When sailing downwind in offshore conditions (racing to Hawaii) we would rig
a line (preventer) from the near the bow to the aft end of the boom. The
line would be long enough to allow the boom to swing in towards the center
line without passing center.

 

This was done to allow the boat to roll deep to leeward and not break the
boom as it hit a wave.  In older IOR designs including the C&C 39 we would
often fly a blooper to balance the spinnaker and allow deep downwind angles.
Occasionally the watches would compete on who could alternate dipping the
boom and pole tip the most times in a row.

 

In the 1982 Vic-Maui one boat broke its boom by using a hard preventer at
the same time as using the boom's hitting the water as an aid to course
correction.

 

The boom and pole dipping contest did make it difficult for the off watch to
eat spaghetti.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

 

I agree with the jibe preventer comments.. 

Accidental jibes can get scary

So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short
distances..  As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach /
gybing instead of running..  So my danger was minimized. 

But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I
picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's a
Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I
need to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle
instead of controlling the jibe with the main sheet. 

  http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/ 


Have you guys used one of those before?  


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8146 - Release Date: 09/03/14

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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[dwight via CnC-List]

Please explain how you do these jibes, like do you tension the main sheet
before the jibe and if so when do you release and how much.timing is
important on my 35 MKII.I don't like my mainsail chafing against my
spreaders or lower shrouds.that's my limit on out and I don't think I lose
anything in speed because I have that limit

 

As I said before I think the fastest way downwind with mast head rigged
C&C's of the 70's and 80's is to pole the jib out to windward.spin pole and
associated control lines work very well to assist this.whoever on here said
that a much slower boat beat a much faster boat downwind by jibing instead
of running might consider that the respective boats might have experienced
somewhat different wind conditions.otherwise I don't think that would happen
if both were well sailed boats of a similar design.the Melges boats for
example, broad reach very well downwind compared to the older C&C designs
but that sort of race is not a fair comparator anyway

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: September 4, 2014 3:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

 

I agree with the jibe preventer comments.. 

Accidental jibes can get scary

So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short
distances..  As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach /
gybing instead of running..  So my danger was minimized. 

But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I
picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's a
Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I
need to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle
instead of controlling the jibe with the main sheet. 

  http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/ 


Have you guys used one of those before?  


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8146 - Release Date: 09/03/14

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Stus-List Smelly Head and Tank

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I have an identical C&C 29 mk 2 that I purchased in 2012.

I replaced the head the first year as it was in very bad condition.

Last year, I replaced all the hoses between the head and the tank and
cleaned out the tank. 

This reduced the smell but did not eliminate it.

Earlier this year, I replaced the vent hose and cleaned out the thru hull
breather vent (full of spider webs).

The vent hose that I installed was ¾ inch and it needed different fittings
at the tank and vent ends.

Once this was completed, the smells have totally disappeared in the cabin.

There is still a lingering odour in the 2 small bow lockers adjacent to the
tank.

Mine boat is a fresh water boat.

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

  bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The PO of my boat said he has used the running back stays as preventers. Not 
sure how that would work as the stays would not interfere with the boom, just 
the upper part of the sail. I think I’ll just run a line from the back of the 
boom to the forward cleat and back to a cockpit winch. Seems simple enough.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 3:09 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

 

As much a safety issue as a repair issue.  I just repaired the following items 
on a Catalina 30:

Loose gooseneck attachment to mast

Missing mainsheet to traveler car shackle (owner said it broke).  Had shackle 
from tether in its place

Cabin top winch ripped off (wasn't through bolted.  Just had aluminum plate 
under deck)

Owner wouldn't say exactly what happened but looked like an accidental gybe to 
me.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 1:52 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I agree with the jibe preventer comments.. 

Accidental jibes can get scary

So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short distances..  
As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach / gybing instead 
of running..  So my danger was minimized. 

But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I 
picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's a 
Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I need 
to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle instead of 
controlling the jibe with the main sheet. 

  http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/ 


Have you guys used one of those before?  


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia


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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

As much a safety issue as a repair issue.  I just repaired the following
items on a Catalina 30:

Loose gooseneck attachment to mast
Missing mainsheet to traveler car shackle (owner said it broke).  Had
shackle from tether in its place
Cabin top winch ripped off (wasn't through bolted.  Just had aluminum plate
under deck)

Owner wouldn't say exactly what happened but looked like an accidental gybe
to me.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 1:52 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>I agree with the jibe preventer comments..
>
>Accidental jibes can get scary
>
>So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short
>distances..  As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach /
>gybing instead of running..  So my danger was minimized.
>
>But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom
>brake I picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I
>believe it's a Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting
>into racing I need to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra
>clutter / hassle instead of controlling the jibe with the main sheet.
>
> http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/
>
>
>Have you guys used one of those before?
>
>
>-Francois Rivard
>1990 34+ "Take Five"
>Lake Lanier, Georgia
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
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> page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

When sailing downwind in offshore conditions (racing to Hawaii) we would rig a 
line (preventer) from the near the bow to the aft end of the boom. The line 
would be long enough to allow the boom to swing in towards the center line 
without passing center.

This was done to allow the boat to roll deep to leeward and not break the boom 
as it hit a wave.  In older IOR designs including the C&C 39 we would often fly 
a blooper to balance the spinnaker and allow deep downwind angles.  
Occasionally the watches would compete on who could alternate dipping the boom 
and pole tip the most times in a row.

In the 1982 Vic-Maui one boat broke its boom by using a hard preventer at the 
same time as using the boom's hitting the water as an aid to course correction.

The boom and pole dipping contest did make it difficult for the off watch to 
eat spaghetti.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes


I agree with the jibe preventer comments..

Accidental jibes can get scary

So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short distances..  
As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad reach / gybing instead 
of running..  So my danger was minimized.

But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I 
picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's a 
Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I need 
to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle instead of 
controlling the jibe with the main sheet.
http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/

Have you guys used one of those before?


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Stus-List Jibe Preventers / Boom brakes

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I agree with the jibe preventer comments..

 Accidental jibes can get scary

 So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short
 distances..  As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad
 reach / gybing instead of running..  So my danger was minimized.

 But, I'm glad you guys made the comment, It reminded me of my boom brake I
 picked-up for 30 bucks at the marina swap meet last year.   I believe it's
 a Walder. I think they are pretty good. Now that I'm getting into racing I
 need to rig it / test it and see if it's worth the extra clutter / hassle
 instead of controlling the jibe with the main sheet.

http://www.boom-brake-walder.com/

 Have you guys used one of those before?


 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, Georgia___
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Re: Stus-List 2104 C & C NE Rendezvous Dockage Form...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

It's hard to find good volunteers.  :)

Dennis C.


On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 12:58 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> All,
>
> (again I apologize for over-broadcasting)
>
> I goofed and attached Corsair's dockage form.
>
> Erase my info and put in your own.
>
> Form is not clear but it is $2.25 per foot, per night.
>
> Over and out
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
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>
>
>
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Stus-List 2104 C & C NE Rendezvous Dockage Form...

[David via CnC-List]

All,

(again I apologize for over-broadcasting)

I goofed and attached Corsair's dockage form.

Erase my info and put in your own.  

Form is not clear but it is $2.25 per foot, per night.

Over and out

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!

[allen via CnC-List]

 I replaced the overhead fluorescent lights with LEDs of the same form factor.  
Reused the existing backing and fittings. Cheap, fast, worked great.  Also 
replaced the cabin sole lights with small LEDs.

Still assessing head sink lamp.  Probably replace with a red/white LED surface 
mount unit.

Out in the cockpit, I moved the AC shore power receptacle to the outside of the 
splash guard aft of the winch and placed an outdoor shower in the former 
location.  It's easier to attach dockside AC and the shower is accessible when 
you return from swimming after climbing the ladder.  Also nice for cooling off 
on those really hot sails.

Allen Miles
Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2014 4:15 PM
To: Danny Haughey ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!


I mounted mine on plywood.   
Joel

On Monday, September 1, 2014, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  have you tried cleaning with an acetone or a wax remover?

  -- Original Message --
  From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
  To: RPH , "C&C List" 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!
  Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 12:40:36 -0700


  Fwiw I've tried sticking led puck lights in my lazarette on our 30-2 and 
couldn't get anything to stick there either. I just finally gave up and stuck 
the adhesive with super glue from our med kit.

  I also stuck one on the underside of our helm seat so that we can more easily 
connect our shore power when we come in after dark Which we do quite often, 
especially after dark in winter.

  I am curious, did you connect the led s in lieu of the florescent fixtures 
located there or adjacent to them? I would be curious to hear what you've done 
for switching if it was the latter.

  It's your 30-2 in the great lakes?

  Best,
  Kevin

  Sent from my Tablet

  On Sep 1, 2014 12:22 PM, "RPH via CnC-List"  wrote:

I already know that this is a stupid question and that I will be shamed by 
the (obvious) answer.  

Anyway, I attempted to install a couple of flexible led light strips in the 
overhead light recesses in the cabin of my 30-2. The lights are like these: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/optx-marine--flexible-heavy-duty-led-strip-lights-12--P012712865

Each overhead light recess has a translucent cover panel. Underneath the 
cover panel is the raw fibreglass side if the deck structure. 

The lights are supposed to be affixed using an adhesive backed tape. I 
tried the tape. I tried "industrial" Velcro. I tried "No More Nails" tape. 
Nothing will stick. By the next day, the light strips have detached. 

I did clean the raw fibreglass with Simple Green,  but I am now wondering 
whether there is something in the resin that is making this a hopeless 
exercise. 

Any tips or suggestions? 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551






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Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[dwight via CnC-List]

My vang (4:1 advantage and control line led to the cock pit) is rigged with
a snap shackle to a boom (mast) bail at the base of the mast with the
attachment point slightly above the deck and on center line.  I can easily
release that snap shackle and attach it to the either toe rail and that
turns the vang into a very convenient preventer and also allows vertical
control on boom angle

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell via CnC-List
Sent: September 4, 2014 11:14 AM
To: Joel Aronson; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

 

Also remember, that the apparent wind angles changes a lot with a small
change in heading when going down wind.  To put it another way, it only
takes a small steering change to make a big apparent wind change.  I too
recommend a preventer.

 

Gary

S/V Expresso

'75 C&C 35 Mk II

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 9:55 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
 wrote:

When I took the Safety at Sea seminar a doctor/sailor spoke.  His #1
recommendation - gybe preventer!  

I have lines that run from the end of the boom to the gooseneck where they
are bungied to the boom.  I release the bungy cord, then attach another line
with a snap shackle, run that to a snatch block on the rail and back to an
otherwise unused cabin top winch.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 9:34 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
 wrote:

I really have to advise a preventer.  It only takes a tiny steering error or
a wind shift and you can easily hurt someone very badly or break something.
How's the saying go?  "An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of
cure."

Josh

On Sep 4, 2014 8:54 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"
 wrote:

On the Wing and Wing thing I'm with Josh.  I don't have a whisker pole and I
discovered that using the method Josh described it's actually pretty easy to
keep the 135% jib full without a pole.  I'm on a lake without swells so a
preventer is not really needed, just keeping a close eye on the sails / helm
/ wind gauge does the trick.  

However..  If you want to go fast down wind without a spin you're very
likely to be better off going broad reach and gybing. It's more work but VMG
does not lie.  I've tested it in racing situations and even on pretty short
legs it's faster as long as you respect the laylines..  This will become
clearer if you can check your boat's polars. ( if you can find them)

 You can read-up on VMG
 on these sites: 
  
 
http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.html
 
http://sail.navas.us/why-vmg-matters.html

Here's a VMG app for your phone:

http://www.sailracer.net/application/downwind.php

Here's an explanation on polars:

http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2013/09/sailing-101-understanding-pol
ars-through-animation/

Have fun learning the finer points of sailing..  


Regards

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Georgia.  

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551   


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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8146 - Release Date: 09/03/14

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Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Also remember, that the apparent wind angles changes a lot with a small
change in heading when going down wind.  To put it another way, it only
takes a small steering change to make a big apparent wind change.  I too
recommend a preventer.

Gary
S/V Expresso
'75 C&C 35 Mk II
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~



On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 9:55 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I took the Safety at Sea seminar a doctor/sailor spoke.  His #1
> recommendation - gybe preventer!
> I have lines that run from the end of the boom to the gooseneck where they
> are bungied to the boom.  I release the bungy cord, then attach another
> line with a snap shackle, run that to a snatch block on the rail and back
> to an otherwise unused cabin top winch.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 9:34 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I really have to advise a preventer.  It only takes a tiny steering error
>> or a wind shift and you can easily hurt someone very badly or break
>> something.  How's the saying go?  "An ounce of prevention is better than a
>> pound of cure."
>>
>> Josh
>> On Sep 4, 2014 8:54 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>  On the Wing and Wing thing I'm with Josh.  I don't have a whisker pole
>>> and I discovered that using the method Josh described it's actually pretty
>>> easy to keep the 135% jib full without a pole.  I'm on a lake without
>>> swells so a preventer is not really needed, just keeping a close eye on the
>>> sails / helm / wind gauge does the trick.
>>>
>>> However..  If you want to go fast down wind without a spin you're very
>>> likely to be better off going broad reach and gybing. It's more work but
>>> VMG does not lie.  I've tested it in racing situations and even on pretty
>>> short legs it's faster as long as you respect the laylines..  This will
>>> become clearer if you can check your boat's polars. ( if you can find them)
>>>
>>>  You can read-up on VMGon these sites:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.html
>>> http://sail.navas.us/why-vmg-matters.html
>>>
>>> Here's a VMG app for your phone:
>>> http://www.sailracer.net/application/downwind.php
>>>
>>> Here's an explanation on polars:
>>> http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2013/09/sailing-101-understanding-polars-through-animation/
>>>
>>> Have fun learning the finer points of sailing..
>>>
>>>
>>> Regards
>>>
>>>Francois Rivard
>>>1990 34+ "Take Five"
>>>Lake Lanier, Georgia.
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>> page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

When I took the Safety at Sea seminar a doctor/sailor spoke.  His #1
recommendation - gybe preventer!
I have lines that run from the end of the boom to the gooseneck where they
are bungied to the boom.  I release the bungy cord, then attach another
line with a snap shackle, run that to a snatch block on the rail and back
to an otherwise unused cabin top winch.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 9:34 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I really have to advise a preventer.  It only takes a tiny steering error
> or a wind shift and you can easily hurt someone very badly or break
> something.  How's the saying go?  "An ounce of prevention is better than a
> pound of cure."
>
> Josh
> On Sep 4, 2014 8:54 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  On the Wing and Wing thing I'm with Josh.  I don't have a whisker pole
>> and I discovered that using the method Josh described it's actually pretty
>> easy to keep the 135% jib full without a pole.  I'm on a lake without
>> swells so a preventer is not really needed, just keeping a close eye on the
>> sails / helm / wind gauge does the trick.
>>
>> However..  If you want to go fast down wind without a spin you're very
>> likely to be better off going broad reach and gybing. It's more work but
>> VMG does not lie.  I've tested it in racing situations and even on pretty
>> short legs it's faster as long as you respect the laylines..  This will
>> become clearer if you can check your boat's polars. ( if you can find them)
>>
>>  You can read-up on VMGon these sites:
>> 
>>  
>> http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.html
>> http://sail.navas.us/why-vmg-matters.html
>>
>> Here's a VMG app for your phone:
>> http://www.sailracer.net/application/downwind.php
>>
>> Here's an explanation on polars:
>> http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2013/09/sailing-101-understanding-polars-through-animation/
>>
>> Have fun learning the finer points of sailing..
>>
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>Francois Rivard
>>1990 34+ "Take Five"
>>Lake Lanier, Georgia.
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

VMG rules!

Make sure you understand the difference between VMG (wind based) and VMG
(ground based or GPS based).

VMG wind is what you want when racing windward/leewards.  It's VMG directly
upwind or downwind.

VMG that you see on a GPS is actually WCV (Waypoint Closure Velocity).
It's the speed at which you are approaching or closing on the waypoint.

If you set the windward or leeward mark as the waypoint, WCV will tend to
zero as you approach the layline.  If you want to approximate VMG wind in
your GPS, set a waypoint 20+ miles directly past the mark.  That is, if the
upwind mark is set at 180 degrees, 2 miles, set a waypoint at 180 degrees
22-25 miles.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 8:29 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yeah I got my but kicked during a fun race because of VMG downwind.  I
> knew it and was avoiding dead down by keeping the wind at 120° but the
> other guy was keeping the wind closer to 90°.  It just didn't look right
> being that far off course but he beat me across the line by a very wide
> margin AND he rated 168 to my 75.  Ugh!
>
> Josh
> On Sep 4, 2014 8:54 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  On the Wing and Wing thing I'm with Josh.  I don't have a whisker pole
>> and I discovered that using the method Josh described it's actually pretty
>> easy to keep the 135% jib full without a pole.  I'm on a lake without
>> swells so a preventer is not really needed, just keeping a close eye on the
>> sails / helm / wind gauge does the trick.
>>
>> However..  If you want to go fast down wind without a spin you're very
>> likely to be better off going broad reach and gybing. It's more work but
>> VMG does not lie.  I've tested it in racing situations and even on pretty
>> short legs it's faster as long as you respect the laylines..  This will
>> become clearer if you can check your boat's polars. ( if you can find them)
>>
>>  You can read-up on VMGon these sites:
>> 
>>  
>> http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.html
>> http://sail.navas.us/why-vmg-matters.html
>>
>> Here's a VMG app for your phone:
>> http://www.sailracer.net/application/downwind.php
>>
>> Here's an explanation on polars:
>> http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2013/09/sailing-101-understanding-polars-through-animation/
>>
>> Have fun learning the finer points of sailing..
>>
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>Francois Rivard
>>1990 34+ "Take Five"
>>Lake Lanier, Georgia.
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I really have to advise a preventer.  It only takes a tiny steering error
or a wind shift and you can easily hurt someone very badly or break
something.  How's the saying go?  "An ounce of prevention is better than a
pound of cure."

Josh
On Sep 4, 2014 8:54 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On the Wing and Wing thing I'm with Josh.  I don't have a whisker pole and
> I discovered that using the method Josh described it's actually pretty easy
> to keep the 135% jib full without a pole.  I'm on a lake without swells so
> a preventer is not really needed, just keeping a close eye on the sails /
> helm / wind gauge does the trick.
>
> However..  If you want to go fast down wind without a spin you're very
> likely to be better off going broad reach and gybing. It's more work but
> VMG does not lie.  I've tested it in racing situations and even on pretty
> short legs it's faster as long as you respect the laylines..  This will
> become clearer if you can check your boat's polars. ( if you can find them)
>
>  You can read-up on VMGon these sites:
> 
>  
> http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.html
> http://sail.navas.us/why-vmg-matters.html
>
> Here's a VMG app for your phone:
> http://www.sailracer.net/application/downwind.php
>
> Here's an explanation on polars:
> http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2013/09/sailing-101-understanding-polars-through-animation/
>
> Have fun learning the finer points of sailing..
>
>
> Regards
>
>Francois Rivard
>1990 34+ "Take Five"
>Lake Lanier, Georgia.
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yeah I got my but kicked during a fun race because of VMG downwind.  I knew
it and was avoiding dead down by keeping the wind at 120° but the other guy
was keeping the wind closer to 90°.  It just didn't look right being that
far off course but he beat me across the line by a very wide margin AND he
rated 168 to my 75.  Ugh!

Josh
On Sep 4, 2014 8:54 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On the Wing and Wing thing I'm with Josh.  I don't have a whisker pole and
> I discovered that using the method Josh described it's actually pretty easy
> to keep the 135% jib full without a pole.  I'm on a lake without swells so
> a preventer is not really needed, just keeping a close eye on the sails /
> helm / wind gauge does the trick.
>
> However..  If you want to go fast down wind without a spin you're very
> likely to be better off going broad reach and gybing. It's more work but
> VMG does not lie.  I've tested it in racing situations and even on pretty
> short legs it's faster as long as you respect the laylines..  This will
> become clearer if you can check your boat's polars. ( if you can find them)
>
>  You can read-up on VMGon these sites:
> 
>  
> http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.html
> http://sail.navas.us/why-vmg-matters.html
>
> Here's a VMG app for your phone:
> http://www.sailracer.net/application/downwind.php
>
> Here's an explanation on polars:
> http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2013/09/sailing-101-understanding-polars-through-animation/
>
> Have fun learning the finer points of sailing..
>
>
> Regards
>
>Francois Rivard
>1990 34+ "Take Five"
>Lake Lanier, Georgia.
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Dock Reservation Form...finally

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Is that a flat rate at 40 feet?   Jerry
 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: CNC CNC 
Sent: Thu, Sep 4, 2014 8:59 am
Subject: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Dock Reservation Form...finally



Finally.   Attached is the dockage reservation form.

Website updated with contact information also.

Sorry about the over-broadcasting.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
  


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Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I spoke to PYI about the JEFA washers with bearings.  Here is what I
learned:​

Bushings are about .4 inches tall.  Each is custom made to the diameter of
the shaft and retaining nut.  Delivery is about 3 weeks.  Cost is about
$150.  If the bottom of the retaining nut is not smooth and polished, add a
delrin ring on top of the washer.​

I may just try two 1/8 pieces of delrin this fall.

Joel


On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 12:56 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think Delrin, also called Acetal, is the material of choice for the
> bushings.
>
> http://www.aetnaplastics.com/products/d/Acetal
>
> I had a machine shop make up a selection of thicknesses from tube stock
> at a reasonable price - $80 for six pieces.
>
> I did take the rudder off, cleaned and checked it for straightness. I also
> cleaned
> out the rudder tube with a mild solvent and soap and water. I checked the
> diameters on the shaft and tube. Since I do not know what there were to
> start
> with it would be hard to say if there was any wear, but both are round and
> the
> same size top to bottom. From that I would guess there was little wear.
>
> I have not seen a spec of what the clearance should be between the rudder
> post
> and tube. Trying to get an exact measurement of the rudder tube would
> require
> a bit fancier stuff that I was using but my guess is that Windburn has
> about
> 1/32" clearance. After greasing everything with Lubriplate sliding the
> rudder back
> in required a solid push.
>
> I replaced both the top and bottom bushings, left a very small clearance.
> While on the hard I cannot feel any play in any direction. The rudder
> swings
> freely, either from the wheel or from the rudder.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
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Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Dock Reservation Form...finally

[David via CnC-List]

Finally.   Attached is the dockage reservation form.

Website updated with contact information also.

Sorry about the over-broadcasting.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

On the Wing and Wing thing I'm with Josh.  I don't have a whisker pole and
I discovered that using the method Josh described it's actually pretty easy
to keep the 135% jib full without a pole.  I'm on a lake without swells so
a preventer is not really needed, just keeping a close eye on the sails /
helm / wind gauge does the trick.

However..  If you want to go fast down wind without a spin you're very
likely to be better off going broad reach and gybing. It's more work but
VMG does not lie.  I've tested it in racing situations and even on pretty
short legs it's faster as long as you respect the laylines..  This will
become clearer if you can check your boat's polars. ( if you can find them)

 You can read-up on VMGon these sites:

http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.html
http://sail.navas.us/why-vmg-matters.html

Here's a VMG app for your phone:
http://www.sailracer.net/application/downwind.php

Here's an explanation on polars:
http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2013/09/sailing-101-understanding-polars-through-animation/

Have fun learning the finer points of sailing..


Regards

 Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, Georgia.___
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