Re: Stus-List Barrier Coating

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Dear Dave J, 
I would agree w the yard and apply 7 coats. It's more than what Interlux 
recommends but the cost of paint is minimal compared to the cost of 
sodablasting and fairing the surface. I also think alternating the colors is 
the easiest way to prove how many coats went on the hull especially if you want 
proof of warranty. It is neat to see how it changes the look of your boat, too. 

If you are rolling it yourself, you'll find the extra coats are easy to apply 
since you'll have your setup and mixing technique honed to a professional 
execution. The result is very hard and the peace of mind after executing a job 
well is priceless. 

Temperature is critical to the minimum wait time and the maximum 
procrastination time between coats. The can has a tabIe of rules that allow 
many different scenarios. I rolled 6 coats white and grey, Fall of '07. Some 
days I got two coats on but I couldn't stand the smell when it cures, so would 
roll a coat on and leave the boat, come back the next day or sometimes next 
week depending on weather. You have to monitor the temperature of the hull 
surface (not airtemp) and the cooler it is, the longer you have to wait between 
coats. When it's 50, the minimum wait before overcoating is 5 hrs, so one coat 
may be all you can finish in a day. You can wait up to two weeks between coats, 
and 50 degree weather and rain and work delayed my project which completed 
within the rules, but took me two months of weekends. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" , "David Jacobs" 
 
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 10:19:50 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barrier Coating 



To tack on to Jake's comments. The can will give coverage guidance so you can 
use that as a guide for thickness too. 
On Oct 23, 2014 9:48 PM, "David Jacobs via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 





I’m having my boats bottom soda blasted and then I’m going to be applying a 
barrier coating. The yard recommended 7 coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000E 
barrier coat which frankly seems a bit much. According to them, Interlux (who 
recommends 4-5 coats 10 mil minimum) won’t honor their warrantee if you use 
less. Never short for opinions I’m hoping you folks can provide me some 
recommendations for barrier coatings. 



Thanks, 

Dave J 



Saltaire, C&C35 MKIII 

___ 
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 






___ 
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List C&C smile fix

[DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List]

I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just 
wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what is 
the procedure to go about fixing it?

Sent from my iPhone
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement- quick-attach fittings

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I can tell you why. The quick-attach can SLIP far too easily. Happened 
on my Babystay when I cranked the backstay. When I let off the backstay, 
the previously firmly tightened babystay was flopping around. The wire 
goes straight into the fitting with no bends or "spread out" of the 
strands like the sta-lok. What makes them so easy to use, also makes 
them prone to letting the cable move, or even pull out.


Bill Bina


On 10/23/2014 11:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


I looked it up, the quick attach fittings are no longer advised for 
standing rigging though I can't understand why.  And I was wrong they 
won't work with rod but WILL work with all other types of wire.


Josh




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed, 
despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by 
using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way 
along the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.


Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch 
drive torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets 
that I collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued 
torque wrench from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the 
sockets and stuff was a few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck 
mechanics use this big stuff, so ask some of them where they buy tools 
besides Snap-On, which is scary expensive. I know I got some of the deep 
sockets from NAPA autoparts. They sell them individually, which is good, 
because those big deep sizes aren't cheap! My boat has 3 different sized 
bolts.


Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in 
un-thickened epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass. 
Next step was to fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the 
consistency of peanut butter. Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to 
clean an area all the way around extending about 10" above and 12" below 
the joint, which I then "primed with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy. 
Followed that with several layers of fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly 
thickened epoxy and wraped like a bandage extending about 10 inches 
above and below the joint. Re-faired the keel and applied many coats of 
interprotect 2000 to seal the surface. Reapplied the first coat of 
micron extra before the final coat of interprotect cured. Previously I 
had tried sealing the joint with various fillers including 5200, 4200, 
Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got to try many fillers 
because none of them lasted from launch to haul out of a single season.


Bill Bina

On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:

I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just wondering 
what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what is the procedure to 
go about fixing it?

Sent from my iPhone
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Dan Mccorison via CnC-List]

Thanks bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed, despite 
> a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by using a wire 
> wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way along the length of 
> the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.
> 
> Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch drive 
> torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets that I 
> collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued torque wrench 
> from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the sockets and stuff was a 
> few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck mechanics use this big stuff, 
> so ask some of them where they buy tools besides Snap-On, which is scary 
> expensive. I know I got some of the deep sockets from NAPA autoparts. They 
> sell them individually, which is good, because those big deep sizes aren't 
> cheap! My boat has 3 different sized bolts.
> 
> Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in un-thickened 
> epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass. Next step was to 
> fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the consistency of peanut butter. 
> Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to clean an area all the way around 
> extending about 10" above and 12" below the joint, which I then "primed with 
> the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy. Followed that with several layers of 
> fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly thickened epoxy and wraped like a bandage 
> extending about 10 inches above and below the joint. Re-faired the keel and 
> applied many coats of interprotect 2000 to seal the surface. Reapplied the 
> first coat of micron extra before the final coat of interprotect cured. 
> Previously I had tried sealing the joint with various fillers including 5200, 
> 4200, Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got to try many fillers 
> because none of them lasted from launch to haul out of a single season.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:
>> I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just 
>> wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what is 
>> the procedure to go about fixing it?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement- quick-attach fittings

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bill,

Swaged fittings don't spread the wires to distribute the load either.  It
sounds like maybe you didn't tighten the cones enough.  I did some
destructive testing and had to physically beat the fitting apart to get the
wedges separated from the cone.

Josh
On Oct 24, 2014 6:22 AM, "Bill Bina via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I can tell you why. The quick-attach can SLIP far too easily. Happened on
> my Babystay when I cranked the backstay. When I let off the backstay, the
> previously firmly tightened babystay was flopping around. The wire goes
> straight into the fitting with no bends or "spread out" of the strands like
> the sta-lok. What makes them so easy to use, also makes them prone to
> letting the cable move, or even pull out.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
> On 10/23/2014 11:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
>>
>> I looked it up, the quick attach fittings are no longer advised for
>> standing rigging though I can't understand why.  And I was wrong they won't
>> work with rod but WILL work with all other types of wire.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement- quick-attach fittings

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Swaged fittings are not comparable to these fittings. A swaged fitting 
has a huge amount of surface area contact between fitting and wire 
compared to the quick-attach. There is even a known reliability 
difference between machine swaged and hand swaged that strongly favors 
machine swaged.


I tightened the cones plenty. In fact, over tightening may have been 
part of the issue.There is a reason why Suncor only markets these for 
lifelines and other relatively light duty applications. I'm obviously 
not the only one who experienced problems. Ignore the manufacturers 
advice at your own peril. As I said, I've seen the problem first hand.


Ask Brion Toss if you need another opinion! :-)

Bill Bina


On 10/24/2014 7:30 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:


Bill,

Swaged fittings don't spread the wires to distribute the load either.  
It sounds like maybe you didn't tighten the cones enough.  I did some 
destructive testing and had to physically beat the fitting apart to 
get the wedges separated from the cone.


Josh

On Oct 24, 2014 6:22 AM, "Bill Bina via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I can tell you why. The quick-attach can SLIP far too easily.
Happened on my Babystay when I cranked the backstay. When I let
off the backstay, the previously firmly tightened babystay was
flopping around. The wire goes straight into the fitting with no
bends or "spread out" of the strands like the sta-lok. What makes
them so easy to use, also makes them prone to letting the cable
move, or even pull out.

Bill Bina


On 10/23/2014 11:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


I looked it up, the quick attach fittings are no longer
advised for standing rigging though I can't understand why.
And I was wrong they won't work with rod but WILL work with
all other types of wire.

Josh



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

What worked well for me was a heat gun, 

Then Bahco carbide scrapers, I have the 2” and 1” triangle that Jim Watts 
turned me onto several years ago, this gets you right down to the quick, then 
the orbital sander hooked up to the shop vac.  I removed them to the shop, it 
was probably worth the re-bunging to be able to work comfortably at hip level 
and do a good job without nicking every upright surface around the edges. Note, 
the 1” triangle scraper is to be used only by adults.

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 5:21 PM
To: wwadjo...@aol.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish

 

Did you strip right down to bare wood?  If so what method did you use for 
stripping?  Chemical, sanding, scraper?

 

The video on Jamestown distributor says he scrapes and believes that keeping 
the scraper sharp, maybe 4 passes before resharpening, is the best and cleanest 
method.  Very little dust, very little wood removed.

 

 

>From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: "wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List"  
Date: 10/23/2014 4:02 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish 



Did new floor boards for my 36 last winter.  West epoxy then 8 coats minwax 
helmsman.  I have used many, and this is as good as any.  I used gloss, not 
slippery if you are wearing shoes.  

Bill Walke

 

 

Sent from my HTC

 

- Reply message -
From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish
Date: Thu, Oct 23, 2014 11:00 AM





Listers,
 
Seeking recommendations for a varnish to use on the interior 
floorboards on the Enterprise. 
 
Of course, I want something that is easy to apply, takes a coat or two 
to have a award-winning appearance, is durable and something that will last for 
a decade or more. And since that produce doesn’t exist, I’d like to know what 
would be the best compromise. 
 
The boat's up for the winter, so I’d like to get brushing over the next 
few weekends. 
 
 
All the best,
 
Edd
 
 
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dan:

Congratulations on your new boat and welcome to the C&C list. Just about 
anything you need advice on, you can get it here.


In my opinion, Bill Bina has provided you with one of the best methods 
to deal with the 'C&C smile'.  It is pretty much the way we dealt with 
ours when we acquired our boat in 2006.  Nine (9) sailing seasons later, 
and there is no evidence of the 'smile'.


Previously, we did the same thing when we acquired a Kirby 25 before the 
C&C 32 and the 'smile' never reappeared.


Good luck with your boat.  By the way, where do you sail from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/10/24 8:04 AM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks bill

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List  
wrote:

I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed, despite a 
few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by using a wire 
wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way along the length of 
the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.

Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch drive 
torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets that I 
collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued torque wrench 
from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the sockets and stuff was a 
few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck mechanics use this big stuff, so 
ask some of them where they buy tools besides Snap-On, which is scary 
expensive. I know I got some of the deep sockets from NAPA autoparts. They sell 
them individually, which is good, because those big deep sizes aren't cheap! My 
boat has 3 different sized bolts.

Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in un-thickened epoxy to clean and 
seal the exposed metal and fiberglass. Next step was to fill the channel using Epoxy thickened 
to the consistency of peanut butter. Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to clean an area 
all the way around extending about 10" above and 12" below the joint, which I then 
"primed with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy. Followed that with several layers of 
fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly thickened epoxy and wraped like a bandage extending about 
10 inches above and below the joint. Re-faired the keel and applied many coats of interprotect 
2000 to seal the surface. Reapplied the first coat of micron extra before the final coat of 
interprotect cured. Previously I had tried sealing the joint with various fillers including 
5200, 4200, Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got to try many fillers because none of 
them lasted from launch to haul out of a single season.

Bill Bina


On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:
I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just wondering 
what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what is the procedure to 
go about fixing it?

Sent from my iPhone
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  

  I recently installed new stair treads at home - replacing the old
  carpet stairs with new oak hardwood.
  But with kids at home I was concerned about traction with kids at
  home.
  I went to Home Depot and bought a small package of "paint grit" -
  only a couple $.  White powdery substance.  I was worried that it
  might stay white looking - but not at all.
  I mixed a bunch straight into my Polyurethane (MinWax) then rolled
  it onto the steps with my second coat.
  You can clearly see the grit as bumps in the surface - but the
  wood grain looks great and tons of traction (even in socks) with
  no colour change.  
  
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 23/10/2014 1:22 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  

  Bill,
   
  do you know how slippery it is when wet?
   
  I need to refinish the steps down the companionway.
   
  Marek
  

   
  
From: Bill Coleman via
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior Floor
  Varnish
  

 
  
  

  On the recommendation of our local
  Shipwright, I used Minwax  Fast drying Polyurethane. 
  Satin.
  Looks beautiful. Wears like iron.
  For exterior application, I think I may try
  some stuff from these guys,
   
  http://emcllc.net/quantumuv-polyurethane-varnish/
   
  They got an excellent write-up in Soundings.
   
  
Regards,
 
Bill 
  
   
  

  From:
  CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 11:00 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish

  
   
  Listers,
  
 
  
  
   
  Seeking recommendations for a varnish to use on
  the interior floorboards on the Enterprise. 
  
  
 
  
  
   
  Of course, I want something that is easy to
  apply, takes a coat or two to have a award-winning
  appearance, is durable and something that will last
  for a decade or more. And since that produce doesn’t
  exist, I’d like to know what would be the best
  compromise. 
  
  
 
  
  
   
  The boat's up for the winter, so I’d like to
  get brushing over the next few weekends. 

  
 

      All the best,


   


      Edd


   


   


      Edd M. Schillay


      Starship Enterprise


      C&C 37+ | Sail No:
  NCC-1701-B


      City Island, NY 

  
  
    Starship
  Enterprise's Captain's Log
  

 
  




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
go bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

  

  
  
  
  
  ___

Re: Stus-List Barrier Coating

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am planning on barrier coating the bottom in the spring with Pettit Protect 
after soda/walnut blasting this fall. One question I came up against was the 
soda blaster asking if I wanted the previous barrier coat removed.  I have no 
idea what is on there given that it was done by a PO.  But I can’t see any 
obvious reason to remove the prior stuff if it is in good shape and the Pettit 
person I talked to agreed.  Thoughts from the group?  Dave

On Oct 24, 2014, at 4:19 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Dear Dave J,
> I would agree w the yard and apply 7 coats.  It's more than what Interlux 
> recommends but the cost of paint is minimal compared to the cost of 
> sodablasting and fairing the surface.  I also think alternating the colors is 
> the easiest way to prove how many coats went on the hull especially if you 
> want proof of warranty.  It is neat to see how it changes the look of your 
> boat, too. 
> 
> If you are rolling it yourself, you'll find the extra coats are easy to apply 
> since you'll have your setup and mixing technique honed to a professional  
> execution.  The result is very hard and the peace of mind after executing a 
> job well is priceless. 
> 
> Temperature is critical to the minimum wait time and the maximum 
> procrastination time between coats.  The can has a tabIe of rules that allow 
> many different scenarios.  I rolled 6 coats white and grey, Fall of '07.  
> Some days I got two coats on but I couldn't stand the smell when it cures, so 
> would roll a coat on and leave the boat, come back the next day or sometimes 
> next week depending on weather.  You have to monitor the temperature of the 
> hull surface (not airtemp) and the cooler it is, the longer you have to wait 
> between coats.  When it's 50, the minimum wait before overcoating is 5 hrs, 
> so one coat may be all you can finish in a day.  You can wait up to two weeks 
> between coats, and 50 degree weather and rain and work delayed my project 
> which completed within the rules, but took me two months of weekends. 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" , "David Jacobs" 
> 
> Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 10:19:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Barrier Coating
> 
> To tack on to Jake's comments.  The can will give coverage guidance so you 
> can use that as a guide for thickness too.
> 
> On Oct 23, 2014 9:48 PM, "David Jacobs via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> I’m having my boats bottom soda blasted and then I’m going to be applying a 
> barrier coating. The yard recommended 7 coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000E 
> barrier coat which frankly seems a bit much. According to them, Interlux (who 
> recommends 4-5 coats 10 mil minimum) won’t honor their warrantee if you use 
> less. Never short for opinions I’m hoping you folks can provide me some 
> recommendations for barrier coatings.
> 
>  
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave J
> 
>  
> Saltaire, C&C35 MKIII
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Barrier Coating

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dave:

In the Spring of 2006, we had the bottom 'dry ice blasted' to prepare it 
for the Interprotect 2000E.  If you use this product, read and follow 
the instructions.


First step after the blasting was to wash the bottom with a solvent 
(don't remember it but I thing it was Interlux 215).  The Interprotect 
2000E is a two part paint and must be mixed and left for about 20 
minutes before applying.  One challenge is to know how much paint to 
mix.  When we mixed our first batch and applied it with 6" high density 
foam rollers, there was some left over. Rather than discarding it, we 
would apply it to where we first started.


We applied 5 complete coats which actually turned out to be 7 coats as 
the extra two coats resulted from the excess when we mixed each batch.  
We put a piece of masking tape on the hull to show where we started each 
new coat.  After the first batch, we could have mixed a little less but 
we didn't want to change our mixing formula.


My brother and I rolled on the five (5) coats in one day.  It was a 
perfect drying day..temp around 17C with a little breeze. First coat 
went on at 9:00 a.m. then a coat every two (2) hours..fifth (5) coat 
went on a little after 5 p.m.  We alternated coats between 'white' and 
'grey'..this really helps when applying it.


It has been nine (9) sailing seasons and the bottom still looks great.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/10/23 10:48 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:


I'm having my boats bottom soda blasted and then I'm going to be 
applying a barrier coating. The yard recommended 7 coats of Interlux 
Interprotect 2000E barrier coat which frankly seems a bit much. 
According to them, Interlux (who recommends 4-5 coats 10 mil minimum) 
won't honor their warrantee if you use less. Never short for opinions 
I'm hoping you folks can provide me some recommendations for barrier 
coatings.


Thanks,

Dave J

Saltaire, C&C35 MKIII



_


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

And if you are in the northern climate and are pulling the boat out for the
winter, add a garboard drain plug to let water out of the bildge before it
freezes and causes more cracks.

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI


 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 9:26 AM
To: Dan Mccorison; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Bill Bina
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

Dan:

Congratulations on your new boat and welcome to the C&C list. Just about 
anything you need advice on, you can get it here.

In my opinion, Bill Bina has provided you with one of the best methods 
to deal with the 'C&C smile'.  It is pretty much the way we dealt with 
ours when we acquired our boat in 2006.  Nine (9) sailing seasons later, 
and there is no evidence of the 'smile'.

Previously, we did the same thing when we acquired a Kirby 25 before the 
C&C 32 and the 'smile' never reappeared.

Good luck with your boat.  By the way, where do you sail from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/10/24 8:04 AM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List wrote:
> Thanks bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List
 wrote:
>>
>> I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed,
despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by
using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way along
the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.
>>
>> Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch
drive torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets that
I collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued torque
wrench from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the sockets and
stuff was a few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck mechanics use
this big stuff, so ask some of them where they buy tools besides Snap-On,
which is scary expensive. I know I got some of the deep sockets from NAPA
autoparts. They sell them individually, which is good, because those big
deep sizes aren't cheap! My boat has 3 different sized bolts.
>>
>> Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in
un-thickened epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass. Next
step was to fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the consistency of
peanut butter. Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to clean an area all
the way around extending about 10" above and 12" below the joint, which I
then "primed with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy. Followed that with
several layers of fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly thickened epoxy and
wraped like a bandage extending about 10 inches above and below the joint.
Re-faired the keel and applied many coats of interprotect 2000 to seal the
surface. Reapplied the first coat of micron extra before the final coat of
interprotect cured. Previously I had tried sealing the joint with various
fillers including 5200, 4200, Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got
to try many fillers because none of them lasted from launch to haul out of a
single season.
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>>> On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:
>>> I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just
wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what is
the procedure to go about fixing it?
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Barrier Coating

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Just make sure the Pettit Protect will adequately adhere to the existing 
paint.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2014/10/24 10:35 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I am planning on barrier coating the bottom in the spring with Pettit 
Protect after soda/walnut blasting this fall. One question I came up 
against was the soda blaster asking if I wanted the previous barrier 
coat removed.  I have no idea what is on there given that it was done 
by a PO.  But I can't see any obvious reason to remove the prior stuff 
if it is in good shape and the Pettit person I talked to agreed. 
 Thoughts from the group?  Dave


On Oct 24, 2014, at 4:19 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Dear Dave J,
I would agree w the yard and apply 7 coats.  It's more than what 
Interlux recommends but the cost of paint is minimal compared to the 
cost of sodablasting and fairing the surface.  I also think 
alternating the colors is the easiest way to prove how many coats 
went on the hull especially if you want proof of warranty. It is neat 
to see how it changes the look of your boat, too.


If you are rolling it yourself, you'll find the extra coats are easy 
to apply since you'll have your setup and mixing technique honed to a 
professional execution.  The result is very hard and the peace of 
mind after executing a job well is priceless.


Temperature is critical to the minimum wait time and the maximum 
procrastination time between coats. The can has a tabIe of rules that 
allow many different scenarios.  I rolled 6 coats white and grey, 
Fall of '07.  Some days I got two coats on but I couldn't stand the 
smell when it cures, so would roll a coat on and leave the boat, come 
back the next day or sometimes next week depending on weather.  You 
have to monitor the temperature of the hull surface (not airtemp) and 
the cooler it is, the longer you have to wait between coats.  When 
it's 50, the minimum wait before overcoating is 5 hrs, so one coat 
may be all you can finish in a day.  You can wait up to two weeks 
between coats, and 50 degree weather and rain and work delayed my 
project which completed within the rules, but took me two months of 
weekends.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >
*To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >, "David Jacobs" 
mailto:davidjaco...@comcast.net>>

*Sent: *Thursday, October 23, 2014 10:19:50 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Barrier Coating

To tack on to Jake's comments.  The can will give coverage guidance 
so you can use that as a guide for thickness too.


On Oct 23, 2014 9:48 PM, "David Jacobs via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I'm having my boats bottom soda blasted and then I'm going to be
applying a barrier coating. The yard recommended 7 coats of
Interlux Interprotect 2000E barrier coat which frankly seems a
bit much. According to them, Interlux (who recommends 4-5 coats
10 mil minimum) won't honor their warrantee if you use less.
Never short for opinions I'm hoping you folks can provide me some
recommendations for barrier coatings.


Thanks,

Dave J


Saltaire, C&C35 MKIII




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Barrier Coating

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If the exsisting barrier coat is sound why remove it?  Why replace it/add
to it?  You may have problems getting new barrier coat to stick to old if
you don't remove it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 24, 2014 9:35 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am planning on barrier coating the bottom in the spring with Pettit
> Protect after soda/walnut blasting this fall. One question I came up
> against was the soda blaster asking if I wanted the previous barrier coat
> removed.  I have no idea what is on there given that it was done by a PO.
> But I can't see any obvious reason to remove the prior stuff if it is in
> good shape and the Pettit person I talked to agreed.  Thoughts from the
> group?  Dave
>
> On Oct 24, 2014, at 4:19 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Dear Dave J,
> I would agree w the yard and apply 7 coats.  It's more than what Interlux
> recommends but the cost of paint is minimal compared to the cost of
> sodablasting and fairing the surface.  I also think alternating the colors
> is the easiest way to prove how many coats went on the hull especially if
> you want proof of warranty.  It is neat to see how it changes the look of
> your boat, too.
>
> If you are rolling it yourself, you'll find the extra coats are easy to
> apply since you'll have your setup and mixing technique honed to a
> professional  execution.  The result is very hard and the peace of mind
> after executing a job well is priceless.
>
> Temperature is critical to the minimum wait time and the maximum
> procrastination time between coats.  The can has a tabIe of rules that
> allow many different scenarios.  I rolled 6 coats white and grey, Fall of
> '07.  Some days I got two coats on but I couldn't stand the smell when it
> cures, so would roll a coat on and leave the boat, come back the next day
> or sometimes next week depending on weather.  You have to monitor the
> temperature of the hull surface (not airtemp) and the cooler it is, the
> longer you have to wait between coats.  When it's 50, the minimum wait
> before overcoating is 5 hrs, so one coat may be all you can finish in a
> day.  You can wait up to two weeks between coats, and 50 degree weather and
> rain and work delayed my project which completed within the rules, but took
> me two months of weekends.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> *To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" , "David Jacobs"
> 
> *Sent: *Thursday, October 23, 2014 10:19:50 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Barrier Coating
>
> To tack on to Jake's comments.  The can will give coverage guidance so you
> can use that as a guide for thickness too.
> On Oct 23, 2014 9:48 PM, "David Jacobs via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm having my boats bottom soda blasted and then I'm going to be applying
> a barrier coating. The yard recommended 7 coats of Interlux Interprotect
> 2000E barrier coat which frankly seems a bit much. According to them,
> Interlux (who recommends 4-5 coats 10 mil minimum) won't honor their
> warrantee if you use less. Never short for opinions I'm hoping you folks
> can provide me some recommendations for barrier coatings.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave J
>
>
> Saltaire, C&C35 MKIII
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I have user Sobstad in Barrie for standing rigging and swagged lifelines. The 
work is done
at Transat Marine which is also in Barrie.

http://www.transatmarine.com/main/homepage.html

You can contact Richard Osborne as Sobstad - sobs...@bellnet.ca

Transat was originally owned by John Osborne, Richards Father, who still works 
there. John is an
Olympic competitor, won gold in 1976 in the Tornado class. I have dealt with 
them for years and
have been pleased by the service and pricing.

If you are not in Ontario the shipping may be a major factor.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2014 13:32:28 -0600 
From: David Donnelly  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement 
Message-ID:  
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
 
I was thinking of replacing my standing rigging on my 26. I am thinking I can 
put it in a box and ship it to wherever so they can duplicate what I have now. 
I haven't really noticed anything wrong with it other than the threaded end for 
the turnbuckle on one of my lowers is bent slightly. I am sure everything is 
original 1977 so it may be a good idea to replace it. I would prefer to not 
involve cross border if possible but wouldn't rule it out. Does anyone want to 
recommend someone in Canada. Or USA if price is right. 
 
David 
C&C 26 Mistress 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

What he said.

Did similar on our J27 to seasons ago and never saw a crack since on
keel/hull joint

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 10:26 AM
To: Dan Mccorison; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Bill Bina
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

Dan:

Congratulations on your new boat and welcome to the C&C list. Just about
anything you need advice on, you can get it here.

In my opinion, Bill Bina has provided you with one of the best methods
to deal with the 'C&C smile'.  It is pretty much the way we dealt with
ours when we acquired our boat in 2006.  Nine (9) sailing seasons later,
and there is no evidence of the 'smile'.

Previously, we did the same thing when we acquired a Kirby 25 before the
C&C 32 and the 'smile' never reappeared.

Good luck with your boat.  By the way, where do you sail from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/10/24 8:04 AM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List wrote:
> Thanks bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List
 wrote:
>>
>> I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed,
despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by
using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way
along the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.
>>
>> Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch
drive torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets
that I collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued
torque wrench from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the
sockets and stuff was a few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck
mechanics use this big stuff, so ask some of them where they buy tools
besides Snap-On, which is scary expensive. I know I got some of the deep
sockets from NAPA autoparts. They sell them individually, which is good,
because those big deep sizes aren't cheap! My boat has 3 different sized
bolts.
>>
>> Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in
un-thickened epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass.
Next step was to fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the
consistency of peanut butter. Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to
clean an area all the way around extending about 10" above and 12" below
the joint, which I then "primed with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy.
Followed that with several layers of fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly
thickened epoxy and wraped like a bandage extending about 10 inches
above and below the joint. Re-faired the keel and applied many coats of
interprotect 2000 to seal the surface. Reapplied the first coat of
micron extra before the final coat of interprotect cured. Previously I
had tried sealing the joint with various fillers including 5200, 4200,
Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got to try many fillers
because none of them lasted from launch to haul out of a single season.
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>>> On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:
>>> I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned.
Just wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile.
Also what is the procedure to go about fixing it?
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

The 25 is a great boat.  A whole lot of boat for the money too

Congratulations!

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 7:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile fix

I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just
wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also
what is the procedure to go about fixing it?

Sent from my iPhone
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers
of bottom paint.

I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Fred,

3 years ago I paid 1700 for my 35 for labor and materials.  I did not price
shop - I used the guy with a shop where I was hauled.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Fri, Oct 24, 2014 at 11:42 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple
> layers of bottom paint.
>
> I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List blanchard rigging

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

is now delta marine sidney bc
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto. Key is torquing the keelbolts. 

Pictures of Touché's smile are on the C&C photo album DIY section. Fix was 
1999. No issue since 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 24, 2014, at 8:26 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dan:
> 
> Congratulations on your new boat and welcome to the C&C list. Just about 
> anything you need advice on, you can get it here.
> 
> In my opinion, Bill Bina has provided you with one of the best methods to 
> deal with the 'C&C smile'.  It is pretty much the way we dealt with ours when 
> we acquired our boat in 2006.  Nine (9) sailing seasons later, and there is 
> no evidence of the 'smile'.
> 
> Previously, we did the same thing when we acquired a Kirby 25 before the C&C 
> 32 and the 'smile' never reappeared.
> 
> Good luck with your boat.  By the way, where do you sail from?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
>> On 2014/10/24 8:04 AM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thanks bill
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed, 
>>> despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by 
>>> using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way along 
>>> the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.
>>> 
>>> Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch drive 
>>> torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets that I 
>>> collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued torque 
>>> wrench from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the sockets and 
>>> stuff was a few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck mechanics use 
>>> this big stuff, so ask some of them where they buy tools besides Snap-On, 
>>> which is scary expensive. I know I got some of the deep sockets from NAPA 
>>> autoparts. They sell them individually, which is good, because those big 
>>> deep sizes aren't cheap! My boat has 3 different sized bolts.
>>> 
>>> Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in un-thickened 
>>> epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass. Next step was to 
>>> fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the consistency of peanut butter. 
>>> Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to clean an area all the way around 
>>> extending about 10" above and 12" below the joint, which I then "primed 
>>> with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy. Followed that with several layers 
>>> of fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly thickened epoxy and wraped like a 
>>> bandage extending about 10 inches above and below the joint. Re-faired the 
>>> keel and applied many coats of interprotect 2000 to seal the surface. 
>>> Reapplied the first coat of micron extra before the final coat of 
>>> interprotect cured. Previously I had tried sealing the joint with various 
>>> fillers including 5200, 4200, Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got 
>>> to try many fillers because none of them lasted from launch to haul out of 
>>> a single season.
>>> 
>>> Bill Bina
>>> 
 On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:
 I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just 
 wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what 
 is the procedure to go about fixing it?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
 page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List blanchard rigging

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Delta took over from Jon Blanshard at that location, looks like Jon has set
up Blanshard Rigging on Hornby.

I was also *seriously* unimpressed with Delta, for a couple of reasons.
They are under new ownership now, so maybe things have changed for the
better. I wouldn't count on it. They are still primarily a big powerboat
yard.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 24 October 2014 09:03, jimmy kelly via CnC-List 
wrote:

> is now delta marine sidney bc
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Fred

 

Rather than soda blasting buy a paint scraper and some blades and go out to 
your boat and scrape the old coatings off at the bow.  Do a 1 sq ft section.

 

Once you have completed one sq ft and then sanded that down to gel coat with 
120 grit sandpaper only then go in to your office and call someone to soda or 
dry ice blast your boat.  I think you will be much more encouraged to go the 
blasting route

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 12:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

 

I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers of 
bottom paint.

 

I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Replacing top rudder bearing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

All,

My new Delrin bearing for the top of the rudder post is ready.

The boat is staying in the water.  Do I need run a line under the rudder to
the stern cleats before I loosen the retaining ring?  Or should I put a
shim under the quadrant to limit the drop?

Do I need anything besides allen wrenches and a strap wrench?

As always, thanks for the advice!

-- 
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing top rudder bearing

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Joel,

Check the top of your rudder post. The top of mine has a threaded 1/2 hole, so 
I screwed in a bolt with a ring on the top of it (about $2 from home dépôt) and 
tied a line from that to the backstay.  It was a lot easier than running a line 
under the rudder.

Mike
Atacama 33 Mk ii 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 12:56:03 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: Joel Aronson , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Replacing top rudder bearing

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I did the hull of my 27 with a random orbital sander six years ago. I came to 
the conclusion that when bad sailors die they go to a boatyard in hell to sand 
hulls for eternity. 
Any price to have someone do a soda job for you is cheap. 
This is possibly the worst job in boat ownership. 

Brent
27v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 24, 2014, at 10:42 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers 
> of bottom paint.
> 
> I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Dan Mccorison via CnC-List]

Rob I sail from Duluth, Mn. Looking forward to asking questions, I'm sure I'll 
have a lot of them. Thanks for the nice welcome.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 24, 2014, at 11:17 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ditto. Key is torquing the keelbolts. 
> 
> Pictures of Touché's smile are on the C&C photo album DIY section. Fix was 
> 1999. No issue since 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 8:26 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Dan:
>> 
>> Congratulations on your new boat and welcome to the C&C list. Just about 
>> anything you need advice on, you can get it here.
>> 
>> In my opinion, Bill Bina has provided you with one of the best methods to 
>> deal with the 'C&C smile'.  It is pretty much the way we dealt with ours 
>> when we acquired our boat in 2006.  Nine (9) sailing seasons later, and 
>> there is no evidence of the 'smile'.
>> 
>> Previously, we did the same thing when we acquired a Kirby 25 before the C&C 
>> 32 and the 'smile' never reappeared.
>> 
>> Good luck with your boat.  By the way, where do you sail from?
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>>> On 2014/10/24 8:04 AM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Thanks bill
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed, 
 despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by 
 using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way 
 along the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.
 
 Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch drive 
 torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets that I 
 collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued torque 
 wrench from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the sockets and 
 stuff was a few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck mechanics use 
 this big stuff, so ask some of them where they buy tools besides Snap-On, 
 which is scary expensive. I know I got some of the deep sockets from NAPA 
 autoparts. They sell them individually, which is good, because those big 
 deep sizes aren't cheap! My boat has 3 different sized bolts.
 
 Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in un-thickened 
 epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass. Next step was to 
 fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the consistency of peanut 
 butter. Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to clean an area all the 
 way around extending about 10" above and 12" below the joint, which I then 
 "primed with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy. Followed that with 
 several layers of fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly thickened epoxy and 
 wraped like a bandage extending about 10 inches above and below the joint. 
 Re-faired the keel and applied many coats of interprotect 2000 to seal the 
 surface. Reapplied the first coat of micron extra before the final coat of 
 interprotect cured. Previously I had tried sealing the joint with various 
 fillers including 5200, 4200, Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I 
 got to try many fillers because none of them lasted from launch to haul 
 out of a single season.
 
 Bill Bina
 
> On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:
> I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just 
> wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what 
> is the procedure to go about fixing it?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.c

Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Sanding with a disc sander requires skill. If you're not careful you will 
"tilt" the sander and gouge or scallop the hull. 

Use at least a 6" sander and a soft pad. Maybe look to rent a rectangular DA 
sander made by Hutchins. The pad is about 12 x 3 inches. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 24, 2014, at 12:26 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I did the hull of my 27 with a random orbital sander six years ago. I came to 
> the conclusion that when bad sailors die they go to a boatyard in hell to 
> sand hulls for eternity. 
> Any price to have someone do a soda job for you is cheap. 
> This is possibly the worst job in boat ownership. 
> 
> Brent
> 27v
> Lake Winnipeg
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 10:42 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers 
>> of bottom paint.
>> 
>> I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C&C 44
>> Portland, Or
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Dan — welcome to the best place on the planet for owners of vintage C&C’s!  
Stu has done us all a great service in taking over this list-serve since 
SailNet and its old chat groups went under several years back.

I’m also on the Big Lake, but a little further east of you.  Haul-out Monday…   
:^(

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 24, 2014, at 12:48 PM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Rob I sail from Duluth, Mn. Looking forward to asking questions, I'm sure 
> I'll have a lot of them. Thanks for the nice welcome.

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing top rudder bearing

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

When I recently dropped my rudder I found the retaining ring needed 
serious encouragement to come off, had to put a pipe wrench to it.  The 
strap wrench did not do it at all.

Hope yours is more free than that.  Apply lubrication liberally!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-10-24 1:56 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

All,

My new Delrin bearing for the top of the rudder post is ready.

The boat is staying in the water.  Do I need run a line under the 
rudder to the stern cleats before I loosen the retaining ring?  Or 
should I put a shim under the quadrant to limit the drop?


Do I need anything besides allen wrenches and a strap wrench?

As always, thanks for the advice!

--
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Fred

The contractor that 'dry ice blast' our boat in 2006 gave us a 
dealhe was trying to drum up business by demonstrating how quick and 
effective his process was.  The regular price for our C&C 32 was about 
$1,600 CDN.we got it done for half that total cost.a deal we 
could not refuse.


There were multiple layers of Interlux paints plus some recent VC 17 
over 22 years by  the original owner.  The dry ice blasting removed 
everything down to the white gelcoat in less than 5 hours including the 
keel and rudder.  The antifouling paint that came offf the bottom fell 
to the ground like ground pepper.  When he finished, I had a shop vacuum 
and had it cleaned up in about 15 minutes.


The last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat was 1991.a friend's 
C&C 33 MKII that were reading for a Marblehead race. That was last time 
I scrapped the bottom of a boat and it will remain the last time I ever 
scrap/sand anti fouling paint from a boat.


Unfortunately for the contractor, his dry ice blasting process did not 
impress many club members...he got a few orders but I have not seen him 
back at the club.


I do not understand why boat owners choose to pay similar prices or more 
to have their bottoms cleaned with all the hazards associated with 
scrapping/sanding when soda blasting and dry ice blasting is perfectly 
safe, quick and extremely effective.


I would choose dry ice blasting over soda blasting because you don't 
have the mess left behind with soda blasting and it can be cheaper.  
Check this video as an example:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1V1RAVXFQg

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/10/24 12:42 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple 
layers of bottom paint.


I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎These are the same guys that just had a conversion about still using 30 or 40 year old sails and when they change them (IF) will go to Bacon’s for a 20 year old sail.Sailors are cheap!!!  sam :-) From: Robert Abbott via CnC-ListSent: Friday, October 24, 2014 6:49 PMTo: Fred Hazzard; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Robert AbbottSubject: Stus-List ice or soda blasting
  

  
  
Fred
  
  The contractor that 'dry ice blast' our boat in 2006 gave us a
  dealhe was trying to drum up business by demonstrating how
  quick and effective his process was.  The regular price for our
  C&C 32 was about $1,600 CDN.we got it done for half that
  total cost.a deal we could not refuse.
  
  There were multiple layers of Interlux paints plus some recent VC
  17 over 22 years by  the original owner.  The dry ice blasting
  removed everything down to the white gelcoat in less than 5 hours
  including the keel and rudder.  The antifouling paint that came
  offf the bottom fell to the ground like ground pepper.  When he
  finished, I had a shop vacuum and had it cleaned up in about 15
  minutes.
  
  The last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat was 1991.a
  friend's C&C 33 MKII that were reading for a Marblehead race. 
  That was last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat and it will
  remain the last time I ever scrap/sand anti fouling paint from a
  boat.
  
  Unfortunately for the contractor, his dry ice blasting process did
  not impress many club members...he got a few orders but I have not
  seen him back at the club.  
  
  I do not understand why boat owners choose to pay similar prices
  or more to have their bottoms cleaned with all the hazards
  associated with scrapping/sanding when soda blasting and dry ice
  blasting is perfectly safe, quick and extremely effective.  
  
  I would choose dry ice blasting over soda blasting because you
  don't have the mess left behind with soda blasting and it can be
  cheaper.  Check this video as an example:
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1V1RAVXFQg
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  
  
  
  On 2014/10/24 12:42 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:


  
I am looking
  for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers
  of bottom paint.


I am also
  interested to find out what is the cost per foot being
  charged.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
  
  
  
  
  ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




  

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎You should read some of the British sail mags. You'd be amazed what British sailors can do with sticky tape and binder twine - or maybe you wouldn't!   sam :-) From: Robert Abbott via CnC-ListSent: Friday, October 24, 2014 6:49 PMTo: Fred Hazzard; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Robert AbbottSubject: Stus-List ice or soda blasting
  

  
  
Fred
  
  The contractor that 'dry ice blast' our boat in 2006 gave us a
  dealhe was trying to drum up business by demonstrating how
  quick and effective his process was.  The regular price for our
  C&C 32 was about $1,600 CDN.we got it done for half that
  total cost.a deal we could not refuse.
  
  There were multiple layers of Interlux paints plus some recent VC
  17 over 22 years by  the original owner.  The dry ice blasting
  removed everything down to the white gelcoat in less than 5 hours
  including the keel and rudder.  The antifouling paint that came
  offf the bottom fell to the ground like ground pepper.  When he
  finished, I had a shop vacuum and had it cleaned up in about 15
  minutes.
  
  The last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat was 1991.a
  friend's C&C 33 MKII that were reading for a Marblehead race. 
  That was last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat and it will
  remain the last time I ever scrap/sand anti fouling paint from a
  boat.
  
  Unfortunately for the contractor, his dry ice blasting process did
  not impress many club members...he got a few orders but I have not
  seen him back at the club.  
  
  I do not understand why boat owners choose to pay similar prices
  or more to have their bottoms cleaned with all the hazards
  associated with scrapping/sanding when soda blasting and dry ice
  blasting is perfectly safe, quick and extremely effective.  
  
  I would choose dry ice blasting over soda blasting because you
  don't have the mess left behind with soda blasting and it can be
  cheaper.  Check this video as an example:
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1V1RAVXFQg
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  
  
  
  On 2014/10/24 12:42 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:


  
I am looking
  for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers
  of bottom paint.


I am also
  interested to find out what is the cost per foot being
  charged.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
  
  
  
  
  ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




  

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The spec sheet for the Suncor toggles says the working load limit of the 
assembly is limited by the working load limit if the wire you are using. IIRC, 
that is basically the same statement made for the Sta-lok and Norseman fittings 
I've used in the rigging of my 25 and my 38.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 23, 2014, at 20:25, Bill Bina via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Having used Suncor for my lifelines where they worked well, I would not 
> consider them as safe for standing rigging. They are very easy to work with, 
> but they are not nearly as secure as sta-lok fittings. I don't think Suncor 
> intends or markets them for high tension shrouds and stays.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 10/23/2014 7:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> Not a C&C but I did the standing rigging on my MacGregor 26C.  I used Suncor 
>> fittings.  Worked great.
>> 
>> http://www.suncorstainless.com/quick-attachtrade
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/ V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> 
>> S/V Lasie
>> 1990 MacGregor 26C
>> 
>> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Just have to point out Bob's recent email explained in detail his experience 
and had a link to a video to try and help Fred. 

Sam, your recent comment adds nothing, and simply announces your personal 
frustration with the list. The list is off the "ebola" topic and still you're 
still criticizing? Just want to say, "this isn't Fox News"; opinion isn't news, 
it's just opinion. 

My personal opinion? Please keep comments positive, and just delete our emails 
if you don't like them. 
Thanks, 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 8:58:20 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting 

‎These are the same guys that just had a conversion about still using 30 or 40 
year old sails and when they change them (IF) will go to Bacon’s for a 20 year 
old sail. 
Sailors are cheap!!! 

sam :-) 
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 6:49 PM 
To: Fred Hazzard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Reply To: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List ice or soda blasting 


Fred 

The contractor that 'dry ice blast' our boat in 2006 gave us a dealhe was 
trying to drum up business by demonstrating how quick and effective his process 
was. The regular price for our C&C 32 was about $1,600 CDN.we got it done 
for half that total cost.a deal we could not refuse. 

There were multiple layers of Interlux paints plus some recent VC 17 over 22 
years by the original owner. The dry ice blasting removed everything down to 
the white gelcoat in less than 5 hours including the keel and rudder. The 
antifouling paint that came offf the bottom fell to the ground like ground 
pepper. When he finished, I had a shop vacuum and had it cleaned up in about 15 
minutes. 

The last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat was 1991.a friend's C&C 33 
MKII that were reading for a Marblehead race. That was last time I scrapped the 
bottom of a boat and it will remain the last time I ever scrap/sand anti 
fouling paint from a boat. 

Unfortunately for the contractor, his dry ice blasting process did not impress 
many club members...he got a few orders but I have not seen him back at the 
club. 

I do not understand why boat owners choose to pay similar prices or more to 
have their bottoms cleaned with all the hazards associated with 
scrapping/sanding when soda blasting and dry ice blasting is perfectly safe, 
quick and extremely effective. 

I would choose dry ice blasting over soda blasting because you don't have the 
mess left behind with soda blasting and it can be cheaper. Check this video as 
an example: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1V1RAVXFQg 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 




On 2014/10/24 12:42 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote: 



I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers of 
bottom paint. 

I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C&C 44 
Portland, Or 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including 
unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 






[Text File:ATT001.txt] 

___ 
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Yeah, the only thing that is cheap on a sailboat is the owner! :)

Steve
  - Original Message - 
  From: Sam Salter via CnC-List 
  To: CnC 
  Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 8:58 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting


  ‎These are the same guys that just had a conversion about still using 30 or 
40 year old sails and when they change them (IF) will go to Bacon’s for a 20 
year old sail.Sailors are cheap!!!

  sam :-)
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 6:49 PM
To: Fred Hazzard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List ice or soda blasting 



  Fred

  The contractor that 'dry ice blast' our boat in 2006 gave us a dealhe was 
trying to drum up business by demonstrating how quick and effective his process 
was.  The regular price for our C&C 32 was about $1,600 CDN.we got it done 
for half that total cost.a deal we could not refuse.

  There were multiple layers of Interlux paints plus some recent VC 17 over 22 
years by  the original owner.  The dry ice blasting removed everything down to 
the white gelcoat in less than 5 hours including the keel and rudder.  The 
antifouling paint that came offf the bottom fell to the ground like ground 
pepper.  When he finished, I had a shop vacuum and had it cleaned up in about 
15 minutes.

  The last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat was 1991.a friend's C&C 33 
MKII that were reading for a Marblehead race.  That was last time I scrapped 
the bottom of a boat and it will remain the last time I ever scrap/sand anti 
fouling paint from a boat.

  Unfortunately for the contractor, his dry ice blasting process did not 
impress many club members...he got a few orders but I have not seen him back at 
the club.  

  I do not understand why boat owners choose to pay similar prices or more to 
have their bottoms cleaned with all the hazards associated with 
scrapping/sanding when soda blasting and dry ice blasting is perfectly safe, 
quick and extremely effective.  

  I would choose dry ice blasting over soda blasting because you don't have the 
mess left behind with soda blasting and it can be cheaper.  Check this video as 
an example:

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1V1RAVXFQg

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.




  On 2014/10/24 12:42 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:

I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers 
of bottom paint.


I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






--


  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--


  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com