Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
I am more paranoid of the hatch leaking than the sides. I will start on the
hatch. Right after I redo the hand rails. I hate leaks.


Thanks for the help. Wish me luck. Ill let ya know how it turns out.


On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 3:10 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I had a choice of paying someone to cut the plastic or buying a piece of
 plastic on-line (Interstate Plastics?) and a router for the same price.
 Now I have a router that has been used on several other projects.

 Joel

 On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

   Isn't:

 1) The gasket is only between the cast lid (in the groove underneath) and
 the frame to seal the frame to the lid when closed?. As pointed out the
 gasket material could be obtained from numerous sources.
 2) The acrylic is bedded in in the frame with compound?  ... Sikaflex
 295 UV?
 3) The frame is bonded to the deck with butyl and screws.
 4) New cast acrylic could be obtained from multiple sources using the old
 one as a template.

 So with regards to replacing the acrylic, a lot of the discussion that
 just took place here regarding window replacement also is applicable to
 hatches.

 In my case (CC 27 MkIII) the PO had screws installed at the 4 corners of
 the hatch acrylic into the cast lid - I don't think those are original ...
 It appears to be where mine is now leaking from (of course!) Also the
 windows were re-bedded (probably acrylic replaced) with screws included
 every 6-inches or so ... that's (of course) where the windows are now
 leaking from (in fact the screws have damaged the cabin side fiberglass
 around the window opening and I can even pull a couple screws right out of
 the cabin side  completely stripped!)

 Peter Fell
 Sidney, BC
 Cygnet
 CC 27 MkIII

  *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, February 24, 2015 11:47 AM
 *To:* Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

  It should look like one of these:

 http://atkinshoyle.com/products/hatches-and-ports.html

 Yup, Butyl and wood screws.  You should be able to take out the pin and
 remove the lid and work on it at home.

 Joel

 On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 2:44 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Thanks I guess I will damage the gasket getting a sample out of my 34
 year old window. I will be committed to replacing the gasket or the
 complete window at that point. I will look for a name or number on the unit
 this afternoon. Hoe is the frame bolted? I don't see any access to the
 underside of the window? Is it bolted into wood with woof screws from the
 top side using only butle tape?





 On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 12:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 All true, and a good person to work with. I have used them.

  Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

 On 24 February 2015 at 08:55, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I've not used them yet, but previous Threads about hatches on this
 list have suggested these guys too:
 http://hatchrepair.com/
 (Hammerhead Nautical Systems)

 I believe the owner used to work for AH (not sure about that last
 bit!)

 sam :-)
 CC 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta


 On 2015-02-24, at 9:34 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  http://www.hatchmasters.com http://www.hatchmasters.com

 has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what
 you need on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call.

 Bill Bina

 On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:

 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I
 need to replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a
 souse for the gasket/


 thanks

 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
 you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
 away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
 Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .





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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
Thanks I guess I will damage the gasket getting a sample out of my 34 year
old window. I will be committed to replacing the gasket or the complete
window at that point. I will look for a name or number on the unit this
afternoon. Hoe is the frame bolted? I don't see any access to the underside
of the window? Is it bolted into wood with woof screws from the top side
using only butle tape?





On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 12:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 All true, and a good person to work with. I have used them.

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

 On 24 February 2015 at 08:55, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I've not used them yet, but previous Threads about hatches on this list
 have suggested these guys too:
 http://hatchrepair.com/
 (Hammerhead Nautical Systems)

 I believe the owner used to work for AH (not sure about that last bit!)

 sam :-)
 CC 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta


 On 2015-02-24, at 9:34 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 http://www.hatchmasters.com http://www.hatchmasters.com

 has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what you
 need on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call.

 Bill Bina

  On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:

 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need
 to replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse
 for the gasket/


  thanks

  --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
 you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
 away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
 Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .





 ___

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-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

.
___

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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
I had a choice of paying someone to cut the plastic or buying a piece of
plastic on-line (Interstate Plastics?) and a router for the same price.
Now I have a router that has been used on several other projects.

Joel

On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

   Isn’t:

 1) The gasket is only between the cast lid (in the groove underneath) and
 the frame to seal the frame to the lid when closed?. As pointed out the
 gasket material could be obtained from numerous sources.
 2) The acrylic is bedded in in the frame with compound?  ... Sikaflex 295
 UV?
 3) The frame is bonded to the deck with butyl and screws.
 4) New cast acrylic could be obtained from multiple sources using the old
 one as a template.

 So with regards to replacing the acrylic, a lot of the discussion that
 just took place here regarding window replacement also is applicable to
 hatches.

 In my case (CC 27 MkIII) the PO had screws installed at the 4 corners of
 the hatch acrylic into the cast lid – I don’t think those are original ...
 It appears to be where mine is now leaking from (of course!) Also the
 windows were re-bedded (probably acrylic replaced) with screws included
 every 6-inches or so ... that’s (of course) where the windows are now
 leaking from (in fact the screws have damaged the cabin side fiberglass
 around the window opening and I can even pull a couple screws right out of
 the cabin side  completely stripped!)

 Peter Fell
 Sidney, BC
 Cygnet
 CC 27 MkIII

  *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, February 24, 2015 11:47 AM
 *To:* Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

  It should look like one of these:

 http://atkinshoyle.com/products/hatches-and-ports.html

 Yup, Butyl and wood screws.  You should be able to take out the pin and
 remove the lid and work on it at home.

 Joel

 On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 2:44 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Thanks I guess I will damage the gasket getting a sample out of my 34
 year old window. I will be committed to replacing the gasket or the
 complete window at that point. I will look for a name or number on the unit
 this afternoon. Hoe is the frame bolted? I don't see any access to the
 underside of the window? Is it bolted into wood with woof screws from the
 top side using only butle tape?





 On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 12:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 All true, and a good person to work with. I have used them.

  Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

 On 24 February 2015 at 08:55, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I've not used them yet, but previous Threads about hatches on this
 list have suggested these guys too:
 http://hatchrepair.com/
 (Hammerhead Nautical Systems)

 I believe the owner used to work for AH (not sure about that last bit!)

 sam :-)
 CC 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta


 On 2015-02-24, at 9:34 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  http://www.hatchmasters.com http://www.hatchmasters.com

 has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what you
 need on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call.

 Bill Bina

 On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:

 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need
 to replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse
 for the gasket/


 thanks

 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
 you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
 away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
 Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .





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 --

 *Best regards,*


 

Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread David Paine via CnC-List
Great points, I'm in the middle of doing the same refab job:

My questions are:

(1)  0.5  diameter circular cross-section neoprene gasket (for the hatch
seal onto frame) but what harness neoprene?
(2)  Does anyone know where to get a replacement aluminum hatch handle (the
round one that allows the hatch to be opened from the outside)?  I killed
one of the two when I removed it to allow the lens to be removed.  The
price from AH was too much for me (I'd be better off machining one myself)

Thanks for any hints!

David

On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

   Isn’t:

 1) The gasket is only between the cast lid (in the groove underneath) and
 the frame to seal the frame to the lid when closed?. As pointed out the
 gasket material could be obtained from numerous sources.
 2) The acrylic is bedded in in the frame with compound?  ... Sikaflex 295
 UV?
 3) The frame is bonded to the deck with butyl and screws.
 4) New cast acrylic could be obtained from multiple sources using the old
 one as a template.

 So with regards to replacing the acrylic, a lot of the discussion that
 just took place here regarding window replacement also is applicable to
 hatches.

 In my case (CC 27 MkIII) the PO had screws installed at the 4 corners of
 the hatch acrylic into the cast lid – I don’t think those are original ...
 It appears to be where mine is now leaking from (of course!) Also the
 windows were re-bedded (probably acrylic replaced) with screws included
 every 6-inches or so ... that’s (of course) where the windows are now
 leaking from (in fact the screws have damaged the cabin side fiberglass
 around the window opening and I can even pull a couple screws right out of
 the cabin side  completely stripped!)

 Peter Fell
 Sidney, BC
 Cygnet
 CC 27 MkIII

  *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, February 24, 2015 11:47 AM
 *To:* Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

  It should look like one of these:

 http://atkinshoyle.com/products/hatches-and-ports.html

 Yup, Butyl and wood screws.  You should be able to take out the pin and
 remove the lid and work on it at home.

 Joel

 On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 2:44 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Thanks I guess I will damage the gasket getting a sample out of my 34
 year old window. I will be committed to replacing the gasket or the
 complete window at that point. I will look for a name or number on the unit
 this afternoon. Hoe is the frame bolted? I don't see any access to the
 underside of the window? Is it bolted into wood with woof screws from the
 top side using only butle tape?





 On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 12:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 All true, and a good person to work with. I have used them.

  Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

 On 24 February 2015 at 08:55, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I've not used them yet, but previous Threads about hatches on this
 list have suggested these guys too:
 http://hatchrepair.com/
 (Hammerhead Nautical Systems)

 I believe the owner used to work for AH (not sure about that last bit!)

 sam :-)
 CC 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta


 On 2015-02-24, at 9:34 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  http://www.hatchmasters.com http://www.hatchmasters.com

 has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what you
 need on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call.

 Bill Bina

 On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:

 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need
 to replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse
 for the gasket/


 thanks

 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
 you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
 away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
 Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .





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Re: Stus-List reefing line

2015-02-24 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
3/16 or 1/4 dyneema is fine.  If you are concerned about wear, add a nylon
cover to the part of the line that will be on the winch.  I have a
dog-bone on one of my lines so I can move it from one reef point to
another.  (also have 3 reef points, but 2 lines).

I have a hook on the boom at the tack and run the reef lines to clutches
(with covers on the dyneema) on the cabin top.

Just one way to do it!

Joel

On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 3:40 PM, David Paine via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Quick question for the List:

 I've had my sail maker put three reefs into my mainsail (CC33-I).  Most
 of the time I sail with the reef-line not run through the clew grommets.
 For an upcoming sailing adventure, I will need to have all three reefs
 rigged and ready to go.  What line should I use?  3/16  Dynema looks light
 and should be strong enough for reef #3  (maybe heavier for reef 1 and 2)
 but here's the suck: I reef at the mast and use a winch on the boom to pull
 in the new reef/clew.  My sense is that Dynema isn't great on winches.  So
 the question is:
 (1) What brand/type?
 (2) What diameter?
 (3) Reef at mast or at cockpit?
 (4) Reef hook/horn or something else?

 Thanks!

 David

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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Furling the main

2015-02-24 Thread Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Dave,

 

I like the EZjack system. The fact that it can be retracted relatively easily 
is a real advantage to me. Since my mast is on the bench at the moment it 
should be an easy installation. My rigger (Frank Colanery) at Bay Sailing 
Equipment will have it soon to go through everything and hopefully install a 
tube in the mast so I can re-wire it. I’ll mention it to him, too. Thanks for 
sharing. As always this list is a wealth of information.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 8:32 AM
To: David Knecht; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main

 

Someone asked how the Dutchman flaking system got its name. It was invented by 
Martin Van Breems now of Norwalk CT (Sound Sailing Center) but from his name 
presumably of Dutch origins 

--

Jonathan

Indigo CC 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Feb 24, 2015, at 08:19, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

On my last boat, I installed a set of EZJax (http://www.ezjax.com).  They were 
less expensive than the Harken and the setup was well designed.  It is not hard 
to do it yourself, but getting all the lengths and positions right will take 
some careful measurements and probably several tries.  I decided that having 
someone experienced design the right sized system for my mast and sail was 
worth the small extra investment.  EZ-jax also had a nice setup for retracting 
the lines, which makes it easier to hoist the sail.  That said, I am installing 
a Mack Pack/lazyjack on my current boat this spring if the ice and snow melt 
before the sailing season is over.  I liked their combination of lazy jacks and 
sail cover.  The setup that came with my boat was poorly designed and a pain to 
use.  It shows me that while you can cobble something together that sort of 
works (what the boat came with), it does not make life easier unless it works 
well.  Dave

 

On Feb 23, 2015, at 11:27 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:





Burt,

 

Only the Lazy Jacks don't require changes to your main sail. Both stack pack 
and the Dutchman system might require a completely new main (or major 
modifications to it) or a new sail cover.

 

You can buy the Harken set or what I would suggest, assemble your own kit. This 
is not an overly complicated task. Fortunately, Harken and many others publish 
pretty good pictures and diagrams which you can use.

 

A few points that you might find useful:

- If you make your own set, be prepared that the amount of line required for 
the lazy jacks is way more than you would ever imagine. If I remember correctly 
I needed over 70 ft for a single Y system (two lines going to the boom). I 
eventually switched to three lines to the boom and it was around 100 ft. Keep 
in mind that it is usually much easier to cut the line than to make it longer 
(;-).

 

- If it works for you, consider attaching the top end of the lazy jacks to the 
spreaders (10-15 cm/4-6 from the mast). This would make raising the sail much 
easier as the slot between the lines would be wider.

 

- Many would say that using stainless steel rings, instead of little blocks is 
fine. My experience showed that the SS rings almost cut through the line 
(chafe) in one season. YMMV.

 

- And lastly, if the cost of the Harken set seems prohibitive, but you are not 
feeling like assembling the set yourself, you should be able to find something 
in a local chandlery or on-line. For comparison, e.g. Sailboat Owners sells the 
Harken kit for around $360, but Catalina Direct sells a similar set (not brand 
name) for about $210. The fact that it is Catalina Direct does not mean that 
the set would not be useful, because there is nothing specific about the lazy 
jacks; it is just a few pieces of hardware, a piece of line and a few blocks. A 
kit like that has an advantage, because it comes with all screws, bolts, drill 
bits, taps, Tef-gel and instructions. Guessing from how you asked you question, 
you might not have too much experience with boat work, so a kit like that might 
be an easier way to tackle the job.

 

Good luck

 

Marek (in cold Ottawa)

Btw. It was so cold tonight (around -25 - -27 C at the hill, plus the 
wind-chill) that the local ski hill closed; second time this year!

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: February-23-15 21:07
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main

 

Dennis,

 

Believe it or not I used that method out of desperation. I was admittedly a 
little embarrassed. I thought I was just demonstrating my lack of experience. I 
was also pretty happy with the result. I appreciate knowing otherwise. Newport 
has some pretty accomplished (and judgmental) sailors. There have been times I 
just gave up on the main and sailed with head sail only. This list is 
invaluable. Thanks

 

I will look into the lazy 

Re: Stus-List Furling Main

2015-02-24 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List

I sailed my boat for 2 seasons before installing Harken lazy jacks.
No regrets whatsoever 12 years later. Made single handing a much better 
experience.
Combined with full battens it helps to keep the mainsail in control at all 
times.
Helps especially to hoist when single handing. No need to go forward since 
you can remove the sail ties before leaving the harbour in all but the most 
extreme conditions.
Keeps the sail off the deck when furling which is probably the most obvious 
advantage, but I find it especially helpful when shortening sail.

Great labour saving device, and hence the name.

The only operational drawback, and it is a small one, is that you have to 
use a bit of care not to snag the leech when hoisting the sail.


Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII

- Original Message - 
From: Maturo, John via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 08:32
Subject: Stus-List Furling Main


I removed the lazy jacks my boat came with and find dropping the main 
quickly puts the sail on the leeward deck providing a quick conversion to 
power with no windage issues to deal with and good visibility for the 
helmsman.  Flaking the sail is easy working from the topping lift end of 
the boom. Yes I have a boom topping lift. I have never had a problem with 
the sail blowing over the side provided we are into the wind or in the 
relative calm of the harbor entrance.  I like simplicity. Fewer things to 
tangle, get jammed, or wear out.


John Maturo
203-494-6782
Ashe, Baltic/CC 39
Branford CT

On Feb 24, 2015, at 08:20, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Furling the main (Marek Dziedzic)
  2. Re:  Marvel Mystery Oil (Ronald B. Frerker)
  3. Re:  Marvel Mystery Oil (Russ  Melody)
  4. Re:  Handheld VHF with DSC (Della Barba, Joe)
  5. Re:  Handheld VHF with DSC (Bill Bina - gmail)
  6. Re:  Furling the main (David Knecht)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2015 23:27:36 -0500
From: Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main
Message-ID: blu184-ds20adabd0e8520c4273c59ece...@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Burt,



Only the Lazy Jacks don't require changes to your main sail. Both stack 
pack and the Dutchman system might require a completely new main (or 
major modifications to it) or a new sail cover.




You can buy the Harken set or what I would suggest, assemble your own 
kit. This is not an overly complicated task. Fortunately, Harken and many 
others publish pretty good pictures and diagrams which you can use.




A few points that you might find useful:

- If you make your own set, be prepared that the amount of line required 
for the lazy jacks is way more than you would ever imagine. If I remember 
correctly I needed over 70 ft for a single Y system (two lines going to 
the boom). I eventually switched to three lines to the boom and it was 
around 100 ft. Keep in mind that it is usually much easier to cut the 
line than to make it longer (;-).




- If it works for you, consider attaching the top end of the lazy jacks 
to the spreaders (10-15 cm/4-6 from the mast). This would make raising 
the sail much easier as the slot between the lines would be wider.




- Many would say that using stainless steel rings, instead of little 
blocks is fine. My experience showed that the SS rings almost cut through 
the line (chafe) in one season. YMMV.




- And lastly, if the cost of the Harken set seems prohibitive, but you 
are not feeling like assembling the set yourself, you should be able to 
find something in a local chandlery or on-line. For comparison, e.g. 
Sailboat Owners sells the Harken kit for around $360, but Catalina Direct 
sells a similar set (not brand name) for about $210. The fact that it is 
Catalina Direct does not mean that the set would not be useful, because 
there is nothing specific about the lazy jacks; it is just a few pieces 
of hardware, a piece of line and a few blocks. A kit like that has an 
advantage, because it comes with all screws, bolts, drill bits, taps, 
Tef-gel and instructions. Guessing from how you asked you question, you 
might not have too much 

Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing

2015-02-24 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Mike

You have just made the pain / hassle of installing and then maintaining a 
winter cover seem very much more worthwhile to me.  I am constantly worrying 
about the weight of the snow on my deck at home, at my mom's place and on roofs 
this year.  Now on top of that on my boat cover.  So far has only been one week 
where I had to spend hourseclearing snow off the boat cover and reinforcing the 
frame - since then has been ok.

One interesting tidbit I learned this year is that snow sticks to the custom 
canvas covers much more readily than shrink wrap covers.  Shrink wrap might be 
an option for you to try in the future for this reason ..

Mike
Persistence
Frers 33
Halifax, NS - in the midst of a freeze portion of freeze thaw cycle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike 
amirault via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 7:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing

NS has seen many freeze thaw cycles this winter. After a fairly substantial 
rainfall this weekend, I found the bilge on my CC 33mkii was full to the top. 
This seemed like too much water to have run down the mast so I investigated and 
found that one of the hoses on my cockpit drains was frozen solid and popped 
the hose off the barbs of the drain. My boat is not covered at this time(tarp 
was sagging too much) so there is a lot of water in the cockpit.  I'm thinking 
there may be a low spot in the hose causing water to freeze there rather than 
draining. The drains on my CC are criss-crossed, i.e., port drainst to stbd, 
stbd to port. Just wondering how other owners in a freezing climate deal with 
this issue?
___

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Stus-List Furling Main

2015-02-24 Thread Maturo, John via CnC-List
I removed the lazy jacks my boat came with and find dropping the main quickly 
puts the sail on the leeward deck providing a quick conversion to power with no 
windage issues to deal with and good visibility for the helmsman.  Flaking the 
sail is easy working from the topping lift end of the boom. Yes I have a boom 
topping lift. I have never had a problem with the sail blowing over the side 
provided we are into the wind or in the relative calm of the harbor entrance.  
I like simplicity. Fewer things to tangle, get jammed, or wear out. 

John Maturo
203-494-6782
Ashe, Baltic/CC 39
Branford CT

 On Feb 24, 2015, at 08:20, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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 You can reach the person managing the list at
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 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of CnC-List digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
   1. Re:  Furling the main (Marek Dziedzic)
   2. Re:  Marvel Mystery Oil (Ronald B. Frerker)
   3. Re:  Marvel Mystery Oil (Russ  Melody)
   4. Re:  Handheld VHF with DSC (Della Barba, Joe)
   5. Re:  Handheld VHF with DSC (Bill Bina - gmail)
   6. Re:  Furling the main (David Knecht)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2015 23:27:36 -0500
 From: Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main
 Message-ID: blu184-ds20adabd0e8520c4273c59ece...@phx.gbl
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 Burt,
 
 
 
 Only the Lazy Jacks don't require changes to your main sail. Both stack pack 
 and the Dutchman system might require a completely new main (or major 
 modifications to it) or a new sail cover.
 
 
 
 You can buy the Harken set or what I would suggest, assemble your own kit. 
 This is not an overly complicated task. Fortunately, Harken and many others 
 publish pretty good pictures and diagrams which you can use.
 
 
 
 A few points that you might find useful:
 
 - If you make your own set, be prepared that the amount of line required for 
 the lazy jacks is way more than you would ever imagine. If I remember 
 correctly I needed over 70 ft for a single Y system (two lines going to the 
 boom). I eventually switched to three lines to the boom and it was around 100 
 ft. Keep in mind that it is usually much easier to cut the line than to make 
 it longer (;-).
 
 
 
 - If it works for you, consider attaching the top end of the lazy jacks to 
 the spreaders (10-15 cm/4-6 from the mast). This would make raising the sail 
 much easier as the slot between the lines would be wider.
 
 
 
 - Many would say that using stainless steel rings, instead of little blocks 
 is fine. My experience showed that the SS rings almost cut through the line 
 (chafe) in one season. YMMV.
 
 
 
 - And lastly, if the cost of the Harken set seems prohibitive, but you are 
 not feeling like assembling the set yourself, you should be able to find 
 something in a local chandlery or on-line. For comparison, e.g. Sailboat 
 Owners sells the Harken kit for around $360, but Catalina Direct sells a 
 similar set (not brand name) for about $210. The fact that it is Catalina 
 Direct does not mean that the set would not be useful, because there is 
 nothing specific about the lazy jacks; it is just a few pieces of hardware, a 
 piece of line and a few blocks. A kit like that has an advantage, because it 
 comes with all screws, bolts, drill bits, taps, Tef-gel and instructions. 
 Guessing from how you asked you question, you might not have too much 
 experience with boat work, so a kit like that might be an easier way to 
 tackle the job.
 
 
 
 Good luck
 
 
 
 Marek (in cold Ottawa)
 
 Btw. It was so cold tonight (around -25 - -27 C at the hill, plus the 
 wind-chill) that the local ski hill closed; second time this year!
 
 
 
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
 Stratton via CnC-List
 Sent: February-23-15 21:07
 To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main
 
 
 
 Dennis,
 
 
 
 Believe it or not I used that method out of desperation. I was admittedly a 
 little embarrassed. I thought I was just demonstrating my lack of experience. 
 I was also pretty happy with the result. I appreciate knowing otherwise. 
 Newport has some pretty accomplished (and judgmental) sailors. There have 
 been times I just gave up on the main and 

Stus-List CC 41 For Sale

2015-02-24 Thread Stu via CnC-List
Laura’s CC 41 file is now available at:  
http://cncphotoalbum.com/temp/Badness_For_Sale.pdf

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List Furling Main

2015-02-24 Thread David via CnC-List
Funny...when sailing to the mooring I do the opposite.   Furl Jib in outer 
harbor and with plenty of run-room drop and flake the main.  Unroll jib and 
sail to mooring.   I can decelerate and accelerate thru the mooring field 
by furling and unfurling jib as control requires.   When approaching mooring 
just put it away and there is  none of the main boom banging around or somehow 
catching breeze if the boat falls off when dead on the water.   When docking 
under sail works like a charm too.

David F. Risch
1981 40
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2015 10:23:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling Main
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com








I agree with John, the simpler, the better. I 
sail singlehanded 90% of the time. When sailing on to my mooring, I furl the 
jib 
well in advance, approach the mooring in irons, drop the main and grab the 
mooring lines. The main is then flaked properly.

___

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  ___

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Re: Stus-List New to the list

2015-02-24 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
John

The 36 is a great boat.  We grew up with a 1981 CC 36 Blue Horizon No. 1 in 
Halifax.  It always felt powerful to me and my favorite spot was sitting on the 
bow in the pulpit watching the bow cut thru the water

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
Bousfield via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 10:32 AM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List New to the list

To All,
Getting some great info from you all. Lots to think about as we get used to our 
CC 36. Bought the boat last fall and only had a chance to sail it during the 
test sail, but we fell in love with her.
Thanks again all.
John  Marjolein CC 36 Dutch Girl
___

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Re: Stus-List Furling Main

2015-02-24 Thread mike amirault via CnC-List
I agree with John, the simpler, the better. I sail singlehanded 90% of the 
time. When sailing on to my mooring, I furl the jib well in advance, approach 
the mooring in irons, drop the main and grab the mooring lines. The main is 
then flaked properly.___

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Re: Stus-List Furling the main

2015-02-24 Thread David Knecht via CnC-List
On my last boat, I installed a set of EZJax (http://www.ezjax.com).  They were 
less expensive than the Harken and the setup was well designed.  It is not hard 
to do it yourself, but getting all the lengths and positions right will take 
some careful measurements and probably several tries.  I decided that having 
someone experienced design the right sized system for my mast and sail was 
worth the small extra investment.  EZ-jax also had a nice setup for retracting 
the lines, which makes it easier to hoist the sail.  That said, I am installing 
a Mack Pack/lazyjack on my current boat this spring if the ice and snow melt 
before the sailing season is over.  I liked their combination of lazy jacks and 
sail cover.  The setup that came with my boat was poorly designed and a pain to 
use.  It shows me that while you can cobble something together that sort of 
works (what the boat came with), it does not make life easier unless it works 
well.  Dave

On Feb 23, 2015, at 11:27 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Burt,
  
 Only the Lazy Jacks don't require changes to your main sail. Both stack pack 
 and the Dutchman system might require a completely new main (or major 
 modifications to it) or a new sail cover.
  
 You can buy the Harken set or what I would suggest, assemble your own kit. 
 This is not an overly complicated task. Fortunately, Harken and many others 
 publish pretty good pictures and diagrams which you can use.
  
 A few points that you might find useful:
 - If you make your own set, be prepared that the amount of line required for 
 the lazy jacks is way more than you would ever imagine. If I remember 
 correctly I needed over 70 ft for a single Y system (two lines going to the 
 boom). I eventually switched to three lines to the boom and it was around 100 
 ft. Keep in mind that it is usually much easier to cut the line than to make 
 it longer (;-).
  
 - If it works for you, consider attaching the top end of the lazy jacks to 
 the spreaders (10-15 cm/4-6 from the mast). This would make raising the sail 
 much easier as the slot between the lines would be wider.
  
 - Many would say that using stainless steel rings, instead of little blocks 
 is fine. My experience showed that the SS rings almost cut through the line 
 (chafe) in one season. YMMV.
  
 - And lastly, if the cost of the Harken set seems prohibitive, but you are 
 not feeling like assembling the set yourself, you should be able to find 
 something in a local chandlery or on-line. For comparison, e.g. Sailboat 
 Owners sells the Harken kit for around $360, but Catalina Direct sells a 
 similar set (not brand name) for about $210. The fact that it is Catalina 
 Direct does not mean that the set would not be useful, because there is 
 nothing specific about the lazy jacks; it is just a few pieces of hardware, a 
 piece of line and a few blocks. A kit like that has an advantage, because it 
 comes with all screws, bolts, drill bits, taps, Tef-gel and instructions. 
 Guessing from how you asked you question, you might not have too much 
 experience with boat work, so a kit like that might be an easier way to 
 tackle the job.
  
 Good luck
  
 Marek (in cold Ottawa)
 Btw. It was so cold tonight (around -25 - -27 C at the hill, plus the 
 wind-chill) that the local ski hill closed; second time this year!
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
 Stratton via CnC-List
 Sent: February-23-15 21:07
 To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main
  
 Dennis,
  
 Believe it or not I used that method out of desperation. I was admittedly a 
 little embarrassed. I thought I was just demonstrating my lack of experience. 
 I was also pretty happy with the result. I appreciate knowing otherwise. 
 Newport has some pretty accomplished (and judgmental) sailors. There have 
 been times I just gave up on the main and sailed with head sail only. This 
 list is invaluable. Thanks
  
 I will look into the lazy jack system. I think it would be a reasonable 
 upgrade to my rig. I am having the entire rig inspected soon. The rigger is 
 going to pick it up in March. I’ll speak to them about this. Hopefully it 
 cost less than all new self-tailing winches.
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
 via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 8:23 PM
 To: CnClist
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main
  
 Burt,
 
 Lazy jacks, Dutchman systems, etc. are all nice.  I've installed several 
 Harken Lazy Jack systems.
 
 However, try this simple cost free solution.  This is what I do when single 
 handing.
 
 Release the halyard and let the sail drop.  Put a couple sail ties around 
 your neck.  Stand on one side of the boom in the middle and throw the main to 
 the other side.  Then lean over the boom and roll the sail into itself.  
 Continue until it's a compact roll.  Wrap a sail tie around the 
 rolled/bundled 

Stus-List New to the list

2015-02-24 Thread John Bousfield via CnC-List
To All,
Getting some great info from you all. Lots to think about as we get used to
our CC 36. Bought the boat last fall and only had a chance to sail it
during the test sail, but we fell in love with her.
Thanks again all.
John  Marjolein CC 36 Dutch Girl
___

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Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need to
replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse for
the gasket/


thanks

-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

.
___

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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Curtis — the hatches were made by Atkins  Hoyle:

http://atkinshoyle.com/

But you’re better off sourcing the gasket elsewhere.  Search the archives for 
the correct size for your hatch and order from McMaster-Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Feb 24, 2015, at 10:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need to 
 replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse for 
 the gasket/
 
 
 thanks 
 
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
___

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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

http://www.hatchmasters.com

has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what you 
need on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call.


Bill Bina

On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I 
need to replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find 
a souse for the gasket/



thanks

--

*/Best regards,/*

*/Curtis McDaniel,
/*

*/CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
/*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that 
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. 
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. 
Explore. Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain

http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

**

*cpt.b...@gmail.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com*

**

/* __/) */

.





___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Sam Salter via CnC-List
I've not used them yet, but previous Threads about hatches on this list have 
suggested these guys too:
http://hatchrepair.com/
(Hammerhead Nautical Systems)

I believe the owner used to work for AH (not sure about that last bit!)

sam :-)
CC 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 2015-02-24, at 9:34 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 http://www.hatchmasters.com 
 
 has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what you need 
 on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call. 
 
 Bill Bina
 
 On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need to 
 replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse for 
 the gasket/
 
 
 thanks 
 
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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 of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Jim Watts via CnC-List
All true, and a good person to work with. I have used them.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 24 February 2015 at 08:55, Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 I've not used them yet, but previous Threads about hatches on this list
 have suggested these guys too:
 http://hatchrepair.com/
 (Hammerhead Nautical Systems)

 I believe the owner used to work for AH (not sure about that last bit!)

 sam :-)
 CC 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta


 On 2015-02-24, at 9:34 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 http://www.hatchmasters.com http://www.hatchmasters.com

 has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what you
 need on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call.

 Bill Bina

  On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:

 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need to
 replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse for
 the gasket/


  thanks

  --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .





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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Indigo via CnC-List
If you are close to Norwalk CT you can get get gasket and lens from Select 
Plastics 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Feb 24, 2015, at 11:29, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need to 
 replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse for 
 the gasket/
 
 
 thanks 
 
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

Select Plastics in South Norwalk, CT is Hatchmasters.com :-)

Bill Bina

On 2/24/2015 12:14 PM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:
If you are close to Norwalk CT you can get get gasket and lens from 
Select Plastics


--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Feb 24, 2015, at 11:29, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I 
need to replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to 
find a souse for the gasket/



thanks

--

*/Best regards,/*

*/Curtis McDaniel,
/*

*/CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
/*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things 
that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the 
bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in 
your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain

http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

**

*cpt.b...@gmail.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com*

**

/* __/) */

.



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Stus-List Antigua Sailing

2015-02-24 Thread Sam Salter via CnC-List
Got back from 2 weeks sailing Antigua at the end of January and thought I'd 
share with the list:

If you've had enough of the BVI's - I know that's hard to imagine - Antigua is 
a different experience. We enjoyed it so much, we're booked up to go back in 
November.

Sailing is a bit more like open ocean sailing with bigger seas. Navigation is a 
little more challenging - nothing to worry about but interesting. Maybe just 
different from the BVI's.

A lot more private boats than charter boats, and some really big boats ($M) 
both sail and power.
We chartered a Dufour 425 from Dream Yachtcharters in Jolly Harbour. Very 
clean, everything worked and sailed real well.

Only 2 islands to explore - Antigue and Barbuda.
Barbuda is less developed, sort of like Anageda in the BVI's. While there, we 
were one of 3 boats anchored off an 11 mile beach. BBQ'd lobster available - 
yum!
Antigua has an interesting old dockyard - Nelson's Dockyard - that has been 
restored and is now a marina with shops and restaurants. Mediterranean Mooring 
here.

Very clean; less developed; no crime (that I noticed); more anchoring - less 
mooring; nice people.

Somewhere different to go, if you need a change from the BVI's, but still need 
sun.

sam :-)
CC 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
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Re: Stus-List compass repair

2015-02-24 Thread wwadjourn
FWIW, I fixed the large bubble in my Ritchie compass this week.  Bellows and 
everything looked fine, so on a -6 degree morning after leaving it in garage 
overnight with the fluid, refilled per instructions on the internet, and it has 
held for a week.  Looks like bubble gone. Hopefully for the season. 
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from my HTC

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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Fellow who did my windows did the same  

Paul. :)


 On Feb 24, 2015, at 6:32 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Hi Peter,
 
 I had friends that circumnavigated and had their windows replaced in NZ.  The 
 NZ folks just laughed at the American yachties every time they saw screws in 
 the plex and mumbled leaky boat.  There is NO way to have enough 
 flex/adhesion space around the screws.  They use very large overlaps, 
 industrial Dow or Silkaflex, the stuff glass buildings use, and require a 
 week in the yard for it to cure without flexing.  They hold the edges own 
 with small screws and fender washers while it sets, then remove the screws 
 and do a 3/4 fillet around the windows.  Their boats sail in much rougher 
 waters than we are used too. . .
 
 2 cents, Lee
 
 
 In my case (CC 27 MkIII) the PO had screws installed at the 4 corners of 
 the hatch acrylic into the cast lid - I don't think those are original ... 
 It appears to be where mine is now leaking from (of course!) Also the 
 windows were re-bedded (probably acrylic replaced) with screws included 
 every 6-inches or so ... that's (of course) where the windows are now 
 leaking from (in fact the screws have damaged the cabin side fiberglass 
 around the window opening and I can even pull a couple screws right out of 
 the cabin side  completely stripped!)
 
 Peter Fell
 Sidney, BC
 
 -- 
 
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Re: Stus-List Hatch repair

2015-02-24 Thread Robert H. via CnC-List
I think my 1989 30 MKII has got Lewmar Superhatches (though I’m not even sure 
about that).


What is the easiest (not necessarily cheapest) way to repair crazed lenses? I’m 
not really keen on removing the hatch lids and shipping them off for repair. Is 
there a complete lid replacement available somewhere? Is there any way to 
simply drop in a new lens?


Lewmar says they no longer make Superhatch parts (if that is indeed what I 
have). I think I’d probably even spring for new hatches if it that was a quick 
and easy way to get the job done and move on.


I know that much has been written about this (both here and elsewhere) but I’m 
really not sure how one is supposed to go about this project.


Rob H.





Sent from Windows Mail





From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎February‎ ‎24‎, ‎2015 ‎3‎:‎00‎ ‎PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com





Hammerhead is a great outfit. Much cheaper than hatchsystems. The Atkins and 
Doyle folks, while very nice, are useless:  they want to sell you a new hatch.  
  I replaced the acrylic lens, gasket, one exterior knob and the handle washers 
on my only hatch last fall and it's leakproof so far.  Email me off list if 
you'd like any help.  I have to be super frugal. I'm Scottish.   LOL!   
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Re: Stus-List Hatch repair

2015-02-24 Thread Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Check they are not bomars ... Our 85 was, replaced Them with Lewmar ocean 
series that fit the opening better. Pompanette have parts for Bomars.

Paul. :)


On Feb 24, 2015, at 6:58 PM, Robert H. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I think my 1989 30 MKII has got Lewmar Superhatches (though I'm not even sure 
about that).

What is the easiest (not necessarily cheapest) way to repair crazed lenses? I'm 
not really keen on removing the hatch lids and shipping them off for repair. Is 
there a complete lid replacement available somewhere? Is there any way to 
simply drop in a new lens?

Lewmar says they no longer make Superhatch parts (if that is indeed what I 
have). I think I'd probably even spring for new hatches if it that was a quick 
and easy way to get the job done and move on.

I know that much has been written about this (both here and elsewhere) but I'm 
really not sure how one is supposed to go about this project.

Rob H.

Sent from Windows Mail

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: ?Tuesday?, ?February? ?24?, ?2015 ?3?:?00? ?PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Hammerhead is a great outfit. Much cheaper than hatchsystems. The Atkins and 
Doyle folks, while very nice, are useless:  they want to sell you a new hatch.
  I replaced the acrylic lens, gasket, one exterior knob and the handle washers 
on my only hatch last fall and it's leakproof so far.  Email me off list if 
you'd like any help.  I have to be super frugal. I'm Scottish.   LOL!
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Stus-List Hatch repair

2015-02-24 Thread Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Hammerhead is a great outfit. Much cheaper than hatchsystems. The Atkins and 
Doyle folks, while very nice, are useless:  they want to sell you a new hatch.  
  I replaced the acrylic lens, gasket, one exterior knob and the handle washers 
on my only hatch last fall and it's leakproof so far.  Email me off list if 
you'd like any help.  I have to be super frugal. I'm Scottish.   LOL!   
___

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Re: Stus-List compass repair

2015-02-24 Thread cpt.burt via CnC-List
Good job mate. 


Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S® 5, an ATT 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date:02/24/2015  20:18  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Robert H. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List compass repair 

FWIW, I fixed the large bubble in my Ritchie compass this week.  Bellows and 
everything looked fine, so on a -6 degree morning after leaving it in garage 
overnight with the fluid, refilled per instructions on the internet, and it has 
held for a week.  Looks like bubble gone. Hopefully for the season. 
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from my HTC

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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

2015-02-24 Thread Lee Youngblood via CnC-List

Hi Peter,

I had friends that circumnavigated and had their windows replaced in 
NZ.  The NZ folks just laughed at the American yachties every time 
they saw screws in the plex and mumbled leaky boat.  There is NO 
way to have enough flex/adhesion space around the screws.  They use 
very large overlaps, industrial Dow or Silkaflex, the stuff glass 
buildings use, and require a week in the yard for it to cure without 
flexing.  They hold the edges own with small screws and fender 
washers while it sets, then remove the screws and do a 3/4 fillet 
around the windows.  Their boats sail in much rougher waters than we 
are used too. . .


2 cents, Lee


In my case (CC 27 MkIII) the PO had screws installed at the 4 
corners of the hatch acrylic into the cast lid - I don't think those 
are original ... It appears to be where mine is now leaking from (of 
course!) Also the windows were re-bedded (probably acrylic replaced) 
with screws included every 6-inches or so ... that's (of course) 
where the windows are now leaking from (in fact the screws have 
damaged the cabin side fiberglass around the window opening and I 
can even pull a couple screws right out of the cabin side  
completely stripped!)


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC


--

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Re: Stus-List Hatch repair

2015-02-24 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
I have to be frugal I'm Irish. HAHAHA, no but really, I think I can take
mine and un-pin them and take the lense out and have a lense made and
re-bed it into the frame my self. the lower frame in not the culprit of my
leak. So I think if I can just find the right gasket I will win this
battle. I would not worry too much about bringing us a subject that has
been covered here or on other sites.  Most of us have earned our right to
forget stuff. But in most cases we all learn something new with a new
perspective .
Cheers

On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 6:40 PM, Robert H. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I think my 1989 30 MKII has got Lewmar Superhatches (though I'm not even
 sure about that).

 What is the easiest (not necessarily cheapest) way to repair crazed
 lenses? I'm not really keen on removing the hatch lids and shipping them
 off for repair. Is there a complete lid replacement available somewhere? Is
 there any way to simply drop in a new lens?

 Lewmar says they no longer make Superhatch parts (if that is indeed what I
 have). I think I'd probably even spring for new hatches if it that was a
 quick and easy way to get the job done and move on.

 I know that much has been written about this (both here and elsewhere) but
 I'm really not sure how one is supposed to go about this project.

 Rob H.

 Sent from Windows Mail

 *From:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, February 24, 2015 3:00 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 Hammerhead is a great outfit. Much cheaper than hatchsystems. The Atkins
 and Doyle folks, while very nice, are useless:  they want to sell you a new
 hatch.
   I replaced the acrylic lens, gasket, one exterior knob and the handle
 washers on my only hatch last fall and it's leakproof so far.  Email me off
 list if you'd like any help.  I have to be super frugal. I'm Scottish.
 LOL!
 ___

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 bottom of page at:
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-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

.
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