Re: Stus-List Autohelm and raymarine

[John Bousfield via CnC-List]

Bradley,
I have a Autohelm 5000 and ran into similar issues. I am updating all my
instruments with Raymarine and found out I can use my existing linear drive
unit just replace the control head using the EV200 then all my instruments
will communicate. I am using the linear drive because I have a complete
spare that came with the boat. Check with Raymarine, I am having the
Autohelm work done by a certified Raymarine installer. It is a little out
my depth.

John & Marjolein
Dutch Girl 1979 C&C 36
Spring Lake, Mi

On Mon, Mar 2, 2015 at 10:15 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well I was over to see the boat today, brought the Autohelm 4000 control
> box home with me. Appears like its an original so there will be no chance
> of communication going on between it and the new stuff. :(( no trace of
> anything other than "Autohelm4000" and made in England so it's got to be as
> old as dirt!
>
> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
> from my iPad!
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm and raymarine

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I might be interested in buying an old AH4000 box.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
Bousfield via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:19 AM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm and raymarine

 

Bradley,

I have a Autohelm 5000 and ran into similar issues. I am updating all my 
instruments with Raymarine and found out I can use my existing linear drive 
unit just replace the control head using the EV200 then all my instruments will 
communicate. I am using the linear drive because I have a complete spare that 
came with the boat. Check with Raymarine, I am having the Autohelm work done by 
a certified Raymarine installer. It is a little out my depth. 

 

John & Marjolein

Dutch Girl 1979 C&C 36

Spring Lake, Mi 

 

On Mon, Mar 2, 2015 at 10:15 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Well I was over to see the boat today, brought the Autohelm 4000 control box 
home with me. Appears like its an original so there will be no chance of 
communication going on between it and the new stuff. :(( no trace of anything 
other than "Autohelm4000" and made in England so it's got to be as old as dirt!

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm and raymarine

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

I’ll jump in with a question/request:
I have a 4000 mkII that works fine , but the screen is dead , anybody upgrading 
..I ‘d be interested in the display/brain .

Tim
C&C 33mkII  Matico
 Toronto

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:01 AM
To: 'John Bousfield'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Bradley Lumgair'
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm and raymarine

I might be interested in buying an old AH4000 box.

Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
Bousfield via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:19 AM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm and raymarine

Bradley,
I have a Autohelm 5000 and ran into similar issues. I am updating all my 
instruments with Raymarine and found out I can use my existing linear drive 
unit just replace the control head using the EV200 then all my instruments will 
communicate. I am using the linear drive because I have a complete spare that 
came with the boat. Check with Raymarine, I am having the Autohelm work done by 
a certified Raymarine installer. It is a little out my depth.

John & Marjolein
Dutch Girl 1979 C&C 36
Spring Lake, Mi

On Mon, Mar 2, 2015 at 10:15 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Well I was over to see the boat today, brought the Autohelm 4000 control box 
home with me. Appears like its an original so there will be no chance of 
communication going on between it and the new stuff. :(( no trace of anything 
other than "Autohelm4000" and made in England so it's got to be as old as dirt!

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Stus-List Halyard guide

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have seen pictures of numbered and marked strips attached to the cabin top 
underneath where halyards etc. run so that you can use the guide relative to a 
mark on the halyard to set the height/tension.  Does anyone know a source of 
those strips or an easy way to create them?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Halyard guide

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

APS (annapolis performance sailing) sells them right behind the register!
Defender must have them too.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 9:34 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have seen pictures of numbered and marked strips attached to the cabin
> top underneath where halyards etc. run so that you can use the guide
> relative to a mark on the halyard to set the height/tension.  Does anyone
> know a source of those strips or an easy way to create them?  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Autohelm

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat
(1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels
up to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under
10,000 lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple
to install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with
anything else.

 

Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing
to share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and
stow the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much
room in my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t
want to install something that will be constantly in the way.

 

Burt

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[Don Newman via CnC-List]

Do you have room to put an extension to the rear or below decks to your rudder 
shaft?
On my last boat I was able to put a standard linear drive aft and below the 
tiller. It worked great and was out of sight but just a button press away. 

A tiller mounted unit will work but you will find yourself only using it for 
long hauls and not for that  quick sail trim etc. One that is always available 
is worth the effort to be creative about finding a way to instal it. 

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Mar 3, 2015, at 09:58, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
> (1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
> appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
> to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
> lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
> install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
> anything else.
>  
> Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing 
> to share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and 
> stow the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much 
> room in my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t 
> want to install something that will be constantly in the way.
>  
> Burt
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Burt:

I had a Raymarine 1000 tillerpilor on my old C&C 25. It was easy to install, 
easy to use and in fact worked better than the 4000+ on my current boat.

The EV1000 might be a little small for your 33. With crew, gear, fuel, water, 
etc., you’re probably up to the top end of that 13,000. Better to have the 
extra power for windy days.

The unit can be disconnected quickly, but don’t drop it; They are a bit fragile 
inside. Also, buy a water-resistant Sunbrella cover for it for when it rains. 
The seals on my tillerpilot were less than perfect, and it died in a Keys 
rainstorm when water dripped onto the computer board inside.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
(1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
anything else.



Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing to 
share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and stow 
the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much room in 
my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t want to 
install something that will be constantly in the way.



Burt








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Re: Stus-List Halyard guide

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

An alternative is to mark the halyard itself aft of where it exits the line
stopper.  Using a permanent marker on the halyard [or "sewing" some whipping
thread through the line] and then make a single mark on the cabintop, or
just know the midpoint setting is when the mark is x" aft of the line
stopper.Then when hoisting the sail you will know when to stop  when the
mark is that x".  Easy to communicate to new crew as well.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:35 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Halyard guide

 

I have seen pictures of numbered and marked strips attached to the cabin top
underneath where halyards etc. run so that you can use the guide relative to
a mark on the halyard to set the height/tension.  Does anyone know a source
of those strips or an easy way to create them?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Jack

I think you probably mean ST1000 ... and it has a displacement rating of 6,600 
lbs. The ST2000 does 10,000 lbs. The Evolution units (as per the older Smart 
Pilot X series) are permanently mounted units (with a removable tiller drive 
unit) and go up to 13,200 lbs). I think beyond that Burt would be into a 
below-deck solution for the drive unit and possibly an upgraded control unit as 
well (i.e. step up to EV200). There was an older SPX5 unit with a ‘Grand Prix’ 
tiller drive that could do 16,500 lbs.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:03 AM
To: Burt Stratton ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

Burt:

I had a Raymarine 1000 tillerpilor on my old C&C 25. It was easy to install, 
easy to use and in fact worked better than the 4000+ on my current boat.

The EV1000 might be a little small for your 33. With crew, gear, fuel, water, 
etc., you’re probably up to the top end of that 13,000. Better to have the 
extra power for windy days.

The unit can be disconnected quickly, but don’t drop it; They are a bit fragile 
inside. Also, buy a water-resistant Sunbrella cover for it for when it rains. 
The seals on my tillerpilot were less than perfect, and it died in a Keys 
rainstorm when water dripped onto the computer board inside.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
(1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
anything else.

 

Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing to 
share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and stow 
the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much room in 
my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t want to 
install something that will be constantly in the way.

 

Burt

 

 




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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Peter:

I wasn’t aware Raymarine had gone to permanently mounted tillerpilots. Not an 
improvement, in my opinion. I imagine they would be in the way, as well as 
exposed to weather. I also wonder how easy they would be to steal.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Peter Fell via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

Jack

I think you probably mean ST1000 ... and it has a displacement rating of 6,600 
lbs. The ST2000 does 10,000 lbs. The Evolution units (as per the older Smart 
Pilot X series) are permanently mounted units (with a removable tiller drive 
unit) and go up to 13,200 lbs). I think beyond that Burt would be into a 
below-deck solution for the drive unit and possibly an upgraded control unit as 
well (i.e. step up to EV200). There was an older SPX5 unit with a ‘Grand Prix’ 
tiller drive that could do 16,500 lbs.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:03 AM
To: Burt Stratton ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

Burt:

I had a Raymarine 1000 tillerpilor on my old C&C 25. It was easy to install, 
easy to use and in fact worked better than the 4000+ on my current boat.

The EV1000 might be a little small for your 33. With crew, gear, fuel, water, 
etc., you’re probably up to the top end of that 13,000. Better to have the 
extra power for windy days.

The unit can be disconnected quickly, but don’t drop it; They are a bit fragile 
inside. Also, buy a water-resistant Sunbrella cover for it for when it rains. 
The seals on my tillerpilot were less than perfect, and it died in a Keys 
rainstorm when water dripped onto the computer board inside.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
(1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
anything else.



Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing to 
share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and stow 
the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much room in 
my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t want to 
install something that will be constantly in the way.



Burt








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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Just did some research on the Raymarine auto-helm and tiller pilots.

 

The S1000+ and S2000+ are self contained tiller pilots. They mount to the 
cockpit seat or deck or wherever is most convenient and connect to the tiller 
with a pin. They only need power but are capable of communicating with other 
instruments in Seatalk or NMEA protocols. They can be disconnected and stowed 
but when installed they take up room in the cockpit.

 

The Evolution tiller pilot ex: EV100 is a system that contains some permanently 
mounted components like the control unit and sensor but the tiller drive is 
still mounted in the cockpit like the tiller pilots and can be disconnected 
when not in use. It can also come with a wheel or linear drive unit mounted 
permanently below decks with an extension to the rudder shaft or wheel steering 
components.

 

In my situation it would not be too difficult to access the rudder shaft to 
install either a wheel helm or just a tiller pilot drive unit with an extension 
connected to the rudder shaft. I may look into that down the road. I like the 
idea of an auto-pilot that is permanently installed and out of the way. I also 
like the idea of having the drive unit below decks and out of the weather.   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack Brennan 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 11:51 AM
To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

 

Peter:

 

I wasn’t aware Raymarine had gone to permanently mounted tillerpilots. Not an 
improvement, in my opinion. I imagine they would be in the way, as well as 
exposed to weather. I also wonder how easy they would be to steal.

 

Jack Brennan

Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From: Peter Fell via CnC-List   

Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 11:23 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

 

Jack

 

I think you probably mean ST1000 ... and it has a displacement rating of 6,600 
lbs. The ST2000 does 10,000 lbs. The Evolution units (as per the older Smart 
Pilot X series) are permanently mounted units (with a removable tiller drive 
unit) and go up to 13,200 lbs). I think beyond that Burt would be into a 
below-deck solution for the drive unit and possibly an upgraded control unit as 
well (i.e. step up to EV200). There was an older SPX5 unit with a ‘Grand Prix’ 
tiller drive that could do 16,500 lbs.

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

 

From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List   

Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:03 AM

To: Burt Stratton   ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

 

Burt:

 

I had a Raymarine 1000 tillerpilor on my old C&C 25. It was easy to install, 
easy to use and in fact worked better than the 4000+ on my current boat.

 

The EV1000 might be a little small for your 33. With crew, gear, fuel, water, 
etc., you’re probably up to the top end of that 13,000. Better to have the 
extra power for windy days.

 

The unit can be disconnected quickly, but don’t drop it; They are a bit fragile 
inside. Also, buy a water-resistant Sunbrella cover for it for when it rains. 
The seals on my tillerpilot were less than perfect, and it died in a Keys 
rainstorm when water dripped onto the computer board inside.

 

Jack Brennan

Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List   

Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:58 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Stus-List Autohelm

 

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
(1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
anything else.

 

Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing to 
share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and stow 
the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much room in 
my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t want to 
install something that will be constantly in the way.

 

Burt

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Burt,

I can say that I have a below deck actuator in my C&C33 so in your case
(with a tiller) there should be plenty of room.  In my case I bolted a
below deck tiller and mounted it athwartships just above the quadrant (I
have wheel steering).  The actuator runs fore-and-aft and is mounted in the
starboard cockpit locker.  Easy.

David

On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just did some research on the Raymarine auto-helm and tiller pilots.
>
>
>
> The S1000+ and S2000+ are self contained tiller pilots. They mount to the
> cockpit seat or deck or wherever is most convenient and connect to the
> tiller with a pin. They only need power but are capable of communicating
> with other instruments in Seatalk or NMEA protocols. They can be
> disconnected and stowed but when installed they take up room in the cockpit.
>
>
>
> The Evolution tiller pilot ex: EV100 is a system that contains some
> permanently mounted components like the control unit and sensor but the
> tiller drive is still mounted in the cockpit like the tiller pilots and can
> be disconnected when not in use. It can also come with a wheel or linear
> drive unit mounted permanently below decks with an extension to the rudder
> shaft or wheel steering components.
>
>
>
> In my situation it would not be too difficult to access the rudder shaft
> to install either a wheel helm or just a tiller pilot drive unit with an
> extension connected to the rudder shaft. I may look into that down the
> road. I like the idea of an auto-pilot that is permanently installed and
> out of the way. I also like the idea of having the drive unit below decks
> and out of the weather.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jack
> Brennan via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 03, 2015 11:51 AM
> *To:* Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Autohelm
>
>
>
> Peter:
>
>
>
> I wasn’t aware Raymarine had gone to permanently mounted tillerpilots. Not
> an improvement, in my opinion. I imagine they would be in the way, as well
> as exposed to weather. I also wonder how easy they would be to steal.
>
>
>
> Jack Brennan
>
> Former C&C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>
>
> *From:* Peter Fell via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 03, 2015 11:23 AM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Autohelm
>
>
>
> Jack
>
>
>
> I think you probably mean ST1000 ... and it has a displacement rating of
> 6,600 lbs. The ST2000 does 10,000 lbs. The Evolution units (as per the
> older Smart Pilot X series) are permanently mounted units (with a removable
> tiller drive unit) and go up to 13,200 lbs). I think beyond that Burt would
> be into a below-deck solution for the drive unit and possibly an upgraded
> control unit as well (i.e. step up to EV200). There was an older SPX5 unit
> with a ‘Grand Prix’ tiller drive that could do 16,500 lbs.
>
>
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>
>
> *From:* Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:03 AM
>
> *To:* Burt Stratton  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Autohelm
>
>
>
> Burt:
>
>
>
> I had a Raymarine 1000 tillerpilor on my old C&C 25. It was easy to
> install, easy to use and in fact worked better than the 4000+ on my current
> boat.
>
>
>
> The EV1000 might be a little small for your 33. With crew, gear, fuel,
> water, etc., you’re probably up to the top end of that 13,000. Better to
> have the extra power for windy days.
>
>
>
> The unit can be disconnected quickly, but don’t drop it; They are a bit
> fragile inside. Also, buy a water-resistant Sunbrella cover for it for when
> it rains. The seals on my tillerpilot were less than perfect, and it died
> in a Keys rainstorm when water dripped onto the computer board inside.
>
>
>
> Jack Brennan
>
> Former C&C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>
>
> *From:* Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:58 AM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Autohelm
>
>
>
> I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My
> boat (1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an
> appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels
> up to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under
> 10,000 lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple
> to install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with
> anything else.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be
> willing to share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to
> disconnect and stow the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick.
> There isn’t much room in my cockpit (it is configured differently than the
> MK I) and I don’t want to install something that will be constantly in the
> way.
>
>
>
> Burt
>
>
>
>
> -

Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

The tiller drive unit itself is removable and is the only thing exposed to the 
weather, except the control head. A pin is installed in the tiller and one on 
the cockpit coaming ... with various mounting options (extra brackets) 
available to get the alignment correct. A power plug is installed in the 
coaming. I don’t suspect mounting or removal is any harder than the all-in-one 
units. The rest of the SPX series or EV100 series autopilot consists of a 
control head mounted in the cockpit and a course computer and a fluxgate 
compass (both mounted below decks). With this setup, the only thing that 
differentiates a cockpit wheel drive vs. cockpit tiller drive autopilot is the 
drive unit itself.

The current P70 control head will work with both the current EV100 and the 
older SPX series ... for the older SPX series there is also the ST70 or ST70+ 
and ST6002, ST7002 or ST8002 units that were used.

It’s probably a more robust unit than previous versions that had all the 
‘brain’ in the cockpit-mounted control unit. And even the older SPX course 
computer talks the current NMEA2000 based SeaTalkng language.

From: Jack Brennan 
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:51 AM
To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

Peter:

I wasn’t aware Raymarine had gone to permanently mounted tillerpilots. Not an 
improvement, in my opinion. I imagine they would be in the way, as well as 
exposed to weather. I also wonder how easy they would be to steal.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Peter Fell via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

Jack

I think you probably mean ST1000 ... and it has a displacement rating of 6,600 
lbs. The ST2000 does 10,000 lbs. The Evolution units (as per the older Smart 
Pilot X series) are permanently mounted units (with a removable tiller drive 
unit) and go up to 13,200 lbs). I think beyond that Burt would be into a 
below-deck solution for the drive unit and possibly an upgraded control unit as 
well (i.e. step up to EV200). There was an older SPX5 unit with a ‘Grand Prix’ 
tiller drive that could do 16,500 lbs.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:03 AM
To: Burt Stratton ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

Burt:

I had a Raymarine 1000 tillerpilor on my old C&C 25. It was easy to install, 
easy to use and in fact worked better than the 4000+ on my current boat.

The EV1000 might be a little small for your 33. With crew, gear, fuel, water, 
etc., you’re probably up to the top end of that 13,000. Better to have the 
extra power for windy days.

The unit can be disconnected quickly, but don’t drop it; They are a bit fragile 
inside. Also, buy a water-resistant Sunbrella cover for it for when it rains. 
The seals on my tillerpilot were less than perfect, and it died in a Keys 
rainstorm when water dripped onto the computer board inside.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
(1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
anything else.

 

Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing to 
share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and stow 
the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much room in 
my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t want to 
install something that will be constantly in the way.

 

Burt

 

 




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--

Stus-List holes in fresh water tank

[Jamie Wolpers via CnC-List]

I own a 1972 c&c 39 and it has two hole in bottom of tank any ideas as to why
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Stus-List autohelm 3000 wheel auto pilot

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

still using  old autopoliot 3000  works fine...for what i need...anyone
with spare parts for this model i would be interested talking to in regard
to purchasing..works very well on my 1968 redline 41 ..as long as boat sail
are trimmed & balanced correctly.
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Stus-List Welcome to the USA

[Don Newman via CnC-List]

>From one of our club members:

FYI, I crossed over from Bimini to Port Everglades yesterday. I went in to
USCBP to get my Cruising Permit for the year, and they Denied it! If your
boat is not Registered they will not issue a Cruising Permit. So, if you
haul out or leave your boat any length of time it puts you in a position
where you will have to import the boat (a % of it's value) and pay State
taxes as long as you are in US waters. They have done this to everyone I
know from Canada that has returned prior to me.

-- 
Don Newman
C&C 44
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Re: Stus-List holes in fresh water tank

[Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List]

My tanks are built into the hull on my 39. Do you have another tank besides
the ones under the settes?
On Mar 3, 2015 1:01 PM, "Jamie Wolpers via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  I own a 1972 c&c 39 and it has two hole in bottom of tank any ideas as
> to why
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List holes in fresh water tank

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

The fresh water tanks on my C&C 39 TM (# 69) are built into the hull with
aluminum tops. Maybe your outlet and/or outlet hose connection is leaking?

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
US12788
Savannah, GA USA


On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 3:05 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My tanks are built into the hull on my 39. Do you have another tank
> besides the ones under the settes?
> On Mar 3, 2015 1:01 PM, "Jamie Wolpers via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  I own a 1972 c&c 39 and it has two hole in bottom of tank any ideas as
>> to why
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List holes in fresh water tank

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Are you talking about man-made holes (like for hose connection) or
accidental ones?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 3 March 2015 at 10:01, Jamie Wolpers via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  I own a 1972 c&c 39 and it has two hole in bottom of tank any ideas as
> to why
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List C&C logo digital file/engraver

[Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List]

Does anyone know of a trophy/plaque engraver who might already have the C&C 
logo on file (to avoid the hefty set-up fee most want to charge).___

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Re: Stus-List Welcome to the USA

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

That's a great way to attract boaters. Maybe next year they will just
confiscate and burn foreign boats and charge you for the service...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 3 March 2015 at 11:38, Don Newman via CnC-List 
wrote:

> From one of our club members:
>
> FYI, I crossed over from Bimini to Port Everglades yesterday. I went in to
> USCBP to get my Cruising Permit for the year, and they Denied it! If your
> boat is not Registered they will not issue a Cruising Permit. So, if you
> haul out or leave your boat any length of time it puts you in a position
> where you will have to import the boat (a % of it's value) and pay State
> taxes as long as you are in US waters. They have done this to everyone I
> know from Canada that has returned prior to me.
>
> --
> Don Newman
> C&C 44
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Halyard guide

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Yes, 
Apsltd.com 
Defender.com 
Mauipro.com 

. . . all sell numbered stick on labels. 

An easier method is to trim your sails in 10 knots where you like them, then 
mark your halyard where the line crosses the winch drum. This is a good 
reference. You can add a line two inches above and below this for light wind 
and heavier wind settings. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"  
To: "David Knecht" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, March 3, 2015 9:43:29 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyard guide 

APS (annapolis performance sailing) sells them right behind the register! 
Defender must have them too. 

Joel 
35/3 
Annapolis 

On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 9:34 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



I have seen pictures of numbered and marked strips attached to the cabin top 
underneath where halyards etc. run so that you can use the guide relative to a 
mark on the halyard to set the height/tension. Does anyone know a source of 
those strips or an easy way to create them? Thanks- Dave 

Aries 
1990 C&C 34+ 
New London, CT 



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Auto helm and Raymarine

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Hello Fred
Really appreciate people like yourself stepping up to help. Was to the boat 
yesterday and brought the head unit back with me, it's definitely "Autohelm 
4000". So I've bought the lower case "a" 95 MFD and a set of i50/i60  
instruments. looks like I need the evolution EV-100 autopilot minus the P70 
control head, what about the drive unit? I suppose the plug will be different. 
does this require the "seatalk" components? I don't really find the Raymarine 
catalogue to be very helpful.
thanks
Brad

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Welcome to the USA

[Colin Kilgour via CnC-List]

I just got a new cruising permit a few weeks ago in Key West when we came
in from Mexico.

Somewhat surprisingly,  it was no trouble whatsoever.   Although my boat is
registered and I've had US cruising permits in the past so all my info was
already in their system.

We can bitch about it for a while more,  but really it might just make
sense to go and register your boat.  If you are going to travel
internationally,  it probably makes life easier in the long run.

I've cleared Bojangles in and out of about 20 countries /Territories and
have yet to have problems anywhere other than the south side of Lake
Ontario.

Cheers
Colin
Bojangles IV
Toronto
On Mar 3, 2015 2:38 PM, "Don Newman via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> From one of our club members:
>
> FYI, I crossed over from Bimini to Port Everglades yesterday. I went in to
> USCBP to get my Cruising Permit for the year, and they Denied it! If your
> boat is not Registered they will not issue a Cruising Permit. So, if you
> haul out or leave your boat any length of time it puts you in a position
> where you will have to import the boat (a % of it's value) and pay State
> taxes as long as you are in US waters. They have done this to everyone I
> know from Canada that has returned prior to me.
>
> --
> Don Newman
> C&C 44
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Auto helm and Raymarine

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Brad
The drive for an Autohelm will work with a newer pilot, it is (in fancy 
packaging) just a motor.  Last season I ran the wheel drive from my old 
Autohelm 4000 system connected to the control box for my new EV-200 
system.  This spring (if it ever warms up here) I hope to get the linear 
drive installed.


Current Raymarine instruments talk together using a network format 
called SeatalkNG, which is essentially the same as N2K, but with 
different plugs on the cords.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-03-03 10:51 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Fred
Really appreciate people like yourself stepping up to help. Was to the boat yesterday and brought the head 
unit back with me, it's definitely "Autohelm 4000". So I've bought the lower case "a" 95 
MFD and a set of i50/i60  instruments. looks like I need the evolution EV-100 autopilot minus the P70 control 
head, what about the drive unit? I suppose the plug will be different. does this require the 
"seatalk" components? I don't really find the Raymarine catalogue to be very helpful.
thanks
Brad

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List holes in fresh water tank

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

To let the water out? :)

At 10:01 AM 03/03/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_BY1PR0801MB0869755F7A71CD883C86CF34D1110BY1PR0801MB0869_"

I own a 1972 c&c 39 and it has two hole in bottom of tank any ideas as to why
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