Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Still have the roller reefing on Wild Cheri.  However the old 30-1 is so still 
that I've only used it twice.Seems I can fly a 160% with a bubble in the main 
at winds in the 15-20 range.Can get exciting in a puff!RonSTL

  From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass  
 Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2015 7:37 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom
   
#yiv1685540487 #yiv1685540487 -- _filtered #yiv1685540487 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1685540487 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1685540487 {font-family:Papyrus;panose-1:3 7 5 2 6 5 2 3 
2 5;} _filtered #yiv1685540487 {panose-1:3 2 4 2 4 6 7 4 6 5;}#yiv1685540487 
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1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv1685540487 div.yiv1685540487WordSection1 {}#yiv1685540487 La 
Belle Aurore, 25 mk1 hull number 225, still has the roller furling boom – and I 
even still have the crank that came with the boat for furling. Like Touche, the 
roller boom is disabled by the Garhauer Vang. Bell has end boom sheeting with 
the traveler on the transom. And though I have done away with the topping lift, 
I still use the little rotating plate on the end of the boom as the attachment 
point for the mainsheet block.  I don’t really think this was the pinnacle of 
sailboat technology. But if it works, why change it.  Rick BrassImzadi  C&C 38 
mk 2la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1Washington, NC      ___

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Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Stiff not still.Ron

  From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass  
 Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2015 7:37 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom
   
#yiv1685540487 #yiv1685540487 -- _filtered #yiv1685540487 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1685540487 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1685540487 {font-family:Papyrus;panose-1:3 7 5 2 6 5 2 3 
2 5;} _filtered #yiv1685540487 {panose-1:3 2 4 2 4 6 7 4 6 5;}#yiv1685540487 
#yiv1685540487 p.yiv1685540487MsoNormal, #yiv1685540487 
li.yiv1685540487MsoNormal, #yiv1685540487 div.yiv1685540487MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv1685540487 a:link, 
#yiv1685540487 span.yiv1685540487MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1685540487 a:visited, #yiv1685540487 
span.yiv1685540487MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1685540487 p 
{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv1685540487 
span.yiv1685540487EmailStyle18 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv1685540487 
.yiv1685540487MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv1685540487 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 
1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv1685540487 div.yiv1685540487WordSection1 {}#yiv1685540487 La 
Belle Aurore, 25 mk1 hull number 225, still has the roller furling boom – and I 
even still have the crank that came with the boat for furling. Like Touche, the 
roller boom is disabled by the Garhauer Vang. Bell has end boom sheeting with 
the traveler on the transom. And though I have done away with the topping lift, 
I still use the little rotating plate on the end of the boom as the attachment 
point for the mainsheet block.  I don’t really think this was the pinnacle of 
sailboat technology. But if it works, why change it.  Rick BrassImzadi  C&C 38 
mk 2la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1Washington, NC      

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2015 8:19 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom  I still occasionally sail on a C&C 
35 Mk.1 that still has the roller furling main and the screw type outhaul.  It 
still has the pin stop traveler too.  The owner has has had her since 1980 or 
so.  He is always trying to convince us "this is the pinnacle of sailboat 
technology, why change anything?"  It works for him.  Ken H.  On 11 October 
2015 at 21:03, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:
Touche' still has the original roller boom.  It can't roll anymore because of 
the rigid boom vang.I've replaced the old screw type outhaul with a car and 4:1 
purchase.Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LAOn Oct 11, 2015 4:44 PM, "schiller via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
So, Corsair is out for the season and I brought home the Spinnaker Pole and the 
Boom to clean up for the winter and it got me wondering how many still have the 
original roller reefing boom?  I have used the roller reefing feature once with 
the old main (no slab reefing).  We now have a North Main that has two reef 
points.  We don't reef all that often.  We just don't go out that often in 15+ 
TWS.

Once I got the end fitting off I figured out why the outhaul was always such a 
tough adjustment.  The outhaul sheave has a half inch ID and the pin is 5/16.  
There was no bushing in the sheave.  I think that I'll just order a new sheave 
from Rig Rite.

I am having the mast stepped this winter so that I can give it a good look over 
this winter.  I am going to replace all of the bulbs with LEDs and finally fix 
my spreader lights (they came disconnected a few years ago and I just haven't 
wanted to go up the mast that bad to reconnect them.

We are doing all of this work because we are finally leaving South Haven and 
taking the boat north to White Lake (Michigan).  It is a difficult decision.  
We have been in South Haven (short one year that we didn't even go in the water 
and one year in Saugatuck/Douglas due to low water levels in South Haven) since 
we came up to Michigan with our South Coast 23 in 1992.  We find that there is 
no social life for the old sailors in South Haven.  We are hoping to find a 
little more activity in Whitehall and we will join White Lake Yacht Club to 
help.  The up side to moving up the lake is that the cost is less (we can pay 
for the slip and the WLYC dues for less than slip in SH) and we can sail White 
Lake when the big lake is not hospitable.  We already know more people on White 
Lake than we do in South Haven. 

We are also replacing the 45 year old cushions since we will be spending more 
weekends on the boat.  Whitehall is a 2 hour drive, South Haven was a twenty 
minute drive.

This is a pretty big move for us but we are excited to maybe get more usage out 
of the boat.  Wish us luck.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
on the hard in South Haven fo probably the last time

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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a
dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.

 

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of
Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the
injection pump, injectors, etc.

 

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards,
Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM,
and lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.

 

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission
standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on
current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel,
just like a new gas engine is designed for ethanol.

 

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your
fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm.
For our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The
service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when
the laptop's hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the
additive from Stanadyne.

 

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It
can't hurt.

 

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank
full during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in
the tank and eat the diesel (don't get me started on bio-diesel). An
algaecide and reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good
policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.

 

I've used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I'm not concerned with the
duel degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel
can generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

 

With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a
1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel
fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a
street gas station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon
cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color;
so my question is do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or
something along those lines into this fuel? I did motor with it for an
extended time on Sunday with no adverse effects; in addition to this
question, what should I use for the upcoming winter layup? many thanks 

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my Interprotect. 
I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on the instructions. 
No problems after 8 years. No problem getting paint to stick to later 
interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor thruhulls and 
Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting. I did wipe the 
Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit. I think they recommended 
216. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Brass"  
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 



Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply the 
first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that it bonds 
with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially cured 
material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a knuckle print 
but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first coat. If I recall, 
it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently. 



Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect. 



Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad Pro. 
After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No problems in 
the last 6 or 7 years. 



I can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that is 
what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been told is is 
because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I’ve also been 
told that the UV is a contributing factor. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 








From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Graham Collins  
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 




First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the 
interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly. I've overcoated 
Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results. 




Graham Collins 
Secret Plans 
C&C 35-III #11 


On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: 





Brent, 


That's weird. I'm taking a quess. Maybe there was some sanding dust on the hull 
after sanding? Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, before 
painting? Is it peeled off or worn off. Got any pictures? 








Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 



- Original Message -



From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Brent Driedger"  
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM 
Subject: Stus-List VC17 





Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the instructions 
but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is turbulent. It's 
frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom paint, even those who 
clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were about 
a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like the top 
6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 





Brent Driedger 
27-5 
Lake Winnipeg. 





Sent from my iPhone 
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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply
the first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that
it bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially
cured material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a
knuckle print but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first
coat. If I recall, it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently.

 

Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect.

 

Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad
Pro. After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No
problems in the last 6 or 7 years.

 

I can't really say why the 6" or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that
is what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I've been told
is is because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I've also
been told that the UV is a contributing factor.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17

 

First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the
interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly.  I've overcoated
Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results.



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Brent,

That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on the
hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent,
before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List"  

To: "C&C List"   
Cc: "Brent Driedger"  

Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
Subject: Stus-List VC17

 

Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my
surprise that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto
the hull within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat
and roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the
instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is
turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom
paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were
about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like
the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 

 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Yeah it is weird. The paint under the hull sticks fine. It resists 4000 psi 
from the pressure washer. I thought dust might be the problem too but I fooled 
that guess by spraying the hull with fresh water a day before I painted it. Air 
temperature was good, humidity was fine. It's a mystery. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 12, 2015, at 8:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on the 
> hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, 
> before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc: "Brent Driedger" 
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
> Subject: Stus-List VC17
> 
> Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
> I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
> that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
> within 6 inches of the waterline. 
> I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
> sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
> roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the 
> instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is 
> turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom 
> paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
> Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
> mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were 
> about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like 
> the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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> of page at:
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> 
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Stus-List Take two tablets and call me in the morning

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The Admiral was probing the net last week and tumbled to a sale on Woot!
Remanufactured famous name 10 inch tablet $59 plus $5 shipping.  She
mentioned it to me and we said "what the heck".

Got it Saturday.  It's a HP 10.  Loaded the free low res Navionics on it
and it seems to work fine.  Currently in a condo adjacent Perdido Pass in
Alabama and it shows my location exactly.  Day vision sucks but for under
$70 bucks who cares?  I won't use it for navigation but just thought I'd
see how the GPS works.  I've got the better version of Navionics on my
Samsung Tab 7 and don't use it either.

The 10 inch will be my travel tablet.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'm a bit mixed on additives.  I've tried numerous times to get a straight
and  scientific answer but to no avail.  Some things that are prominent in
my memory are as follows.

Most diesel already has an additive package to prevent bio growth the
question is, "How long does it last?"  The bio-bore bottle states that each
tank should be retreated every 6 months for "maximum protection".  IMO if
you are turning over the tank (completely using and then filling) once or
twice a year then you should be ok.

The growth occurs because of water in the tank and emulsified in the fuel.
Often times people will site a water/fuel interface layer in the tank
similar to when the Italian dressing has say for a while.  The theory goes
that the algae live in the water and eat the fuel.  This can cause the
black goo or a harder particulate to form and hopefully get caught in the
fuel filters.  Additionally, the water is more dense and as such the only
means for effectively removing the water is the use of a low point drain on
the tank. If enough water accumulates (1/4 to 1/2 inch) then you are near
the point where the pickup tube can suck up the water/fuel mix where the
algae have been busy making goo.  Long durations of stagnant fuel
facilitate the depletion of the biocide package which came with the fuel.
These long durations may be followed by significant agitation which breaks
up the goo layer combined with the pitch and heel of the boat again
facilitate the goo being sucked up by the pickup tube.

Poorly placed tank vents.  Poorly installed tank vents.  Degraded tank
vents and hose.  Knock downs.  All can allow water into the tank.

The filter funnel marketing and demonstrations are quite convincing as to
how much water can be emulsified IN the fuel directly from the fuel
station.  The demonstrations are also powerful is proving how well they
remove the water.

There are differing opinions as to whether or not a full tank causes or
prevents condensation from forming in the tank.  Maine Sailor did a pretty
good write up but read the comments too.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/fuel_tankt_condensation

IMO it is better to eliminate/remove/prevent the water than to try to
control growth with an additive.  I'm always hesitant to use additives of
any type since it is no guarantee of improvement and may in some cases
actually be worse.  Lower cetane and lubricity are 2 possible outcomes

Modern diesel is low sulfur.  The sulfur is what was used to increase the
lubricity which is critical to reducing wear on the fuel injectors and HP
pump.  IMO this is a bigger hazard to operation of the engine than bio
growth.  I use an additive from Opti-Lube called XPD.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/64-maintenance-fluids/177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html#/forumsite/20625/topics/177728

It does seem that there is a certain amount of mysticism with all of this.
Some people report no problems after years of not changing filters, sitting
on the hard, partially filled tanks,  etc.  And others seem to be very
particular with regard to fuel system maintenance and yet perpetually
battle goo, debris, clogged filters, etc.

My vote is a using a filter funnel while refueling, adding the opti-lube
XPD, and using as much of the fuel in the tank as possible between fill ups.

As always YMMV

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 12, 2015 12:39 PM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a
> 1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel
> fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a
> street gas station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon
> cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color;
> so my question is do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or
> something along those lines into this fuel? I did motor with it for an
> extended time on Sunday with no adverse effects; in addition to this
> question, what should I use for the upcoming winter layup? many thanks
>
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences,
> including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Just wanted to respond to moving the boat and the future commute. 
I kept my boat close to home for 10 years. It took me 45 minutes to get to my 
slip. I had to run my boat 2 hours to the nearest race. 
In two hours a sailboat can take you 10 miles from home, while a car can travel 
100 miles in the same time. 

I moved my boat 2 1/2 hour drive away, and made it into our weekend get away. I 
added shore power, a flat screen TV, and reverse cycle air conditioner to 
survive the 100 degree summer heat of Chesapeake Bay. I used the heater for the 
first time this weekend to raise the cabin temperature from 50 degrees to 72. 
It was 43 outside, 65 later the same day. No regrets. My slip is located in one 
of the most beautiful lagoons and I feel like I'm on vacation as soon I get 
there. By boat, I'm only 2 hours to Annapolis and 5 hours to Baltimore Inner 
Harbor. Love the better sailing opportunities, better choice of cruising 
destinations, and many racing opportunities too. 

Good luck with your move. I'm sure it will be a great adventure. 

One thing I learned is to make a checklist for things to do before leaving the 
boat. 

Good luck. 
Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
previously located in Atlantic City, NJ 
Now located in Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "schiller via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "schiller"  
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2015 4:43:35 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom 

So, Corsair is out for the season and I brought home the Spinnaker Pole and the 
Boom to clean up for the winter and it got me wondering how many still have the 
original roller reefing boom? I have used the roller reefing feature once with 
the old main (no slab reefing). We now have a North Main that has two reef 
points. We don't reef all that often. We just don't go out that often in 15+ 
TWS. 

Once I got the end fitting off I figured out why the outhaul was always such a 
tough adjustment. The outhaul sheave has a half inch ID and the pin is 5/16. 
There was no bushing in the sheave. I think that I'll just order a new sheave 
from Rig Rite. 

I am having the mast stepped this winter so that I can give it a good look over 
this winter. I am going to replace all of the bulbs with LEDs and finally fix 
my spreader lights (they came disconnected a few years ago and I just haven't 
wanted to go up the mast that bad to reconnect them. 

We are doing all of this work because we are finally leaving South Haven and 
taking the boat north to White Lake (Michigan). It is a difficult decision. We 
have been in South Haven (short one year that we didn't even go in the water 
and one year in Saugatuck/Douglas due to low water levels in South Haven) since 
we came up to Michigan with our South Coast 23 in 1992. We find that there is 
no social life for the old sailors in South Haven. We are hoping to find a 
little more activity in Whitehall and we will join White Lake Yacht Club to 
help. The up side to moving up the lake is that the cost is less (we can pay 
for the slip and the WLYC dues for less than slip in SH) and we can sail White 
Lake when the big lake is not hospitable. We already know more people on White 
Lake than we do in South Haven. 

We are also replacing the 45 year old cushions since we will be spending more 
weekends on the boat. Whitehall is a 2 hour drive, South Haven was a twenty 
minute drive. 

This is a pretty big move for us but we are excited to maybe get more usage out 
of the boat. Wish us luck. 

Neil Schiller 
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 
(C&C 35, Mark I) 
"Corsair" 
on the hard in South Haven fo probably the last time 



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Re: Stus-List Diesel Fuel Additives?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

No, it's all low sulfur. Green just tells the cops that you paid the road
tax.

Surprising , Truck diesel here is 2.69, and at our club (Red Boat Diesel) is
$2.03.

Put Bio-Bore additive in always. Or it will turn Black!

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39, Erie

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

 

With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a
1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel
fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a
street gas station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon
cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color;
so my question is do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or
something along those lines into this fuel? I did motor with it for an
extended time on Sunday with no adverse effects; in addition to this
question, what should I use for the upcoming winter layup? many thanks 

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Dave Syer shared an album with you.

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Beautiful post. Thanks for the pics. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Dave Syer via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Dave Syer"  
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2015 6:35:36 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Dave Syer shared an album with you. 


You are invited to view Dave Syer's photo album: Windstar 'glass and keel 


Windstar 'glass and keel 
Oct 4, 2015 
by Dave Syer 
Winter 2015 work on windstar 
View Album 
Play slideshow 
Message from Dave Syer: 
33mkii "windstar" mast step revisited - photos. 
If you are having problems viewing this email, copy and paste the following 
into your browser: 
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=113820107769936378062&target=ALBUM&id=6204484620508637473&authkey=Gv1sRgCJOCl9DE4eOBGA&invite=CIednp0J&feat=email
 
To share your photos or receive notification when your friends share photos, 
get your own free Picasa Web Albums account . 

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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Richard,

Off-road fuel has a red dye to indicate road taxes have not been 
paid. The diesel comes form the same stack as marine/off-road fuel. I 
know it seems crazy that the higher taxed fuel is more expensive but 
c'est le vie.


I suggest an additive with each fill, regardless of where you get the 
diesel. I use Hawes but I've had good people recommend the Stanadyne 
product as well.


cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1, Yanmar QM20


At 09:39 AM 12/10/2015, you wrote:
With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat 
is a 1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my 
annual diesel fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to 
get diesel from a street gas station; although the cost was almost a 
dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color 
rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to put some 
type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no 
adverse effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for 
the upcoming winter layup? many thanks


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Green dye means it was taxes as motor fuel rather than red non taxed farm
fuel.
Joel

On Monday, October 12, 2015, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a
> 1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel
> fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a
> street gas station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon
> cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color;
> so my question is do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or
> something along those lines into this fuel? I did motor with it for an
> extended time on Sunday with no adverse effects; in addition to this
> question, what should I use for the upcoming winter layup? many thanks
>
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>  To change your
> list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up and 
the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas station; 
although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to 
put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no adverse 
effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for the upcoming 
winter layup? many thanks 

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

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unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page 
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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the 
interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly.  I've 
overcoated Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Brent,
That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust 
on the hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped 
in a solvent, before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any 
pictures?



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
*To: *"C&C List" 
*Cc: *"Brent Driedger" 
*Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
*Subject: *Stus-List VC17

Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving.
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my 
surprise that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I 
painted onto the hull within 6 inches of the waterline.
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random 
orbital sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was 
sanded flat and roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on 
as per the instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More 
where the water is turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull 
boats with intact bottom paint, even those who clean their hulls every 
couple of weeks.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the 
zebra mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. 
There were about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my 
rudder which like the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower 
horizontal surface.


Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Brent, 
That's weird. I'm taking a quess. Maybe there was some sanding dust on the hull 
after sanding? Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, before 
painting? Is it peeled off or worn off. Got any pictures? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Brent Driedger"  
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM 
Subject: Stus-List VC17 

Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the instructions 
but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is turbulent. It's 
frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom paint, even those who 
clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were about 
a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like the top 
6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 

Brent Driedger 
27-5 
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone 
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Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom

[William Walker via CnC-List]

The vang was first thing I did to my boat when I bought gut five years ago.  
Wouldn't be without it.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi 



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

I just replaced the pin stop traveler this year.  Replaced with a Garhauer 
adjustable traveler and a 3:1/6:1 Mainsheeting system.

Thinking about rigid vang as well.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"


On 10/11/2015 8:19 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:

I still occasionally sail on a C&C 35 Mk.1 that still has the roller furling 
main and the screw type outhaul.  It still has the pin stop traveler too.  The 
owner has has had her since 1980 or so. 


He is always trying to convince us "this is the pinnacle of sailboat 
technology, why change anything?"


It works for him.


Ken H.


On 11 October 2015 at 21:03, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Touche' still has the original roller boom.  It can't roll anymore because of 
the rigid boom vang.

I've replaced the old screw type outhaul with a car and 4:1 purchase.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Oct 11, 2015 4:44 PM, "schiller via CnC-List"  wrote:

So, Corsair is out for the season and I brought home the Spinnaker Pole and the 
Boom to clean up for the winter and it got me wondering how many still have the 
original roller reefing boom?  I have used the roller reefing feature once with 
the old main (no slab reefing).  We now have a North Main that has two reef 
points.  We don't reef all that often.  We just don't go out that often in 15+ 
TWS.

Once I got the end fitting off I figured out why the outhaul was always such a 
tough adjustment.  The outhaul sheave has a half inch ID and the pin is 5/16.  
There was no bushing in the sheave.  I think that I'll just order a new sheave 
from Rig Rite.

I am having the mast stepped this winter so that I can give it a good look over 
this winter.  I am going to replace all of the bulbs with LEDs and finally fix 
my spreader lights (they came disconnected a few years ago and I just haven't 
wanted to go up the mast that bad to reconnect them.

We are doing all of this work because we are finally leaving South Haven and 
taking the boat north to White Lake (Michigan).  It is a difficult decision.  
We have been in South Haven (short one year that we didn't even go in the water 
and one year in Saugatuck/Douglas due to low water levels in South Haven) since 
we came up to Michigan with our South Coast 23 in 1992.  We find that there is 
no social life for the old sailors in South Haven.  We are hoping to find a 
little more activity in Whitehall and we will join White Lake Yacht Club to 
help.  The up side to moving up the lake is that the cost is less (we can pay 
for the slip and the WLYC dues for less than slip in SH) and we can sail White 
Lake when the big lake is not hospitable.  We already know more people on White 
Lake than we do in South Haven. 

We are also replacing the 45 year old cushions since we will be spending more 
weekends on the boat.  Whitehall is a 2 hour drive, South Haven was a twenty 
minute drive.

This is a pretty big move for us but we are excited to maybe get more usage out 
of the boat.  Wish us luck.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
on the hard in South Haven fo probably the last time



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Stus-List Rudder angle

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Fred,
If Doug doesn't buy I will.  Looks like he want a it though.  Let Me know if 
available.  
Bill Walker


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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Thanks for info.  I use it primarily when motoring.  Upwind it does pretty 
well.  Downwind in fillowi g seas not so well. 
Bill Walker



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, October 12, 2015 Michael Brown via CnC-List  
wrote:

I had a Raymarine ST4000 wheel drive that worked but in some circumstances
not well. Trying to use it upwind into waves had it steering all over the 
place, and
playing with the damping settings didn't solve it. At lower speeds it would 
hunt a lot.

At the Toronto boat show I spoke with the people at the Raymarine booth, and was
told to add a rudder sensor. Since I have no play in the steering and the 
geometry
doesn't change I also wondered why it would make a difference. The answer was
that the software handles the steering differently when it can measure the 
rudder
angle directly rather than stepping the drive motor and calculating the angle.

I added the sensor. My guess is that it didn't do much. Maybe a bit more stable
upwind, still not great though.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2015 12:06:07 -0400 

From: "Rick Brass"  
To:  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations 
Message-ID: <01d1043e$bd619ef0$3824dcd0$@earthlink.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 

>From all the comments over the past few years I know that David's comment is 
true. But I have always wondered "WHY?". What changed to make the rudder 
position sensor essential? 



Over the years I've had an Autohelm tillerpilot (800 I think) on a 27 and a 
Raymarine 1000 tillerpilot on my 25 with tiller steering. A Raymarine 3000 
belt driven wheel pilot. And there is a Navico 5000 wheel pilot on my 38 
(I'm sure it isn't older than dirt, but it is almost older than plastic). 
None of these has a wheel sensor - relying only on heading information from 
the fluxgate compass built into them to steer the boat. All of them worked 
well. 



The Navico took a bit of adjustment to the settings to optimize performance 
(I suspect the PO had never set it up since the wheel lock to lock setting 
was the default and not the proper number for the boat), but once set up the 
wheelpilot will steer the boat for miles and miles without a variance from 
the desired heading of over a degree or two. 



So what has changed with the newer autopilots to make the rudder position 
sensor so important? 



Rick Brass 

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2 

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 

Washington, NC 

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I had a Raymarine ST4000 wheel drive that worked but in some circumstances
not well. Trying to use it upwind into waves had it steering all over the 
place, and
playing with the damping settings didn't solve it. At lower speeds it would 
hunt a lot.

At the Toronto boat show I spoke with the people at the Raymarine booth, and was
told to add a rudder sensor. Since I have no play in the steering and the 
geometry
doesn't change I also wondered why it would make a difference. The answer was
that the software handles the steering differently when it can measure the 
rudder
angle directly rather than stepping the drive motor and calculating the angle.

I added the sensor. My guess is that it didn't do much. Maybe a bit more stable
upwind, still not great though.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2015 12:06:07 -0400 
From: "Rick Brass"  
To:  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations 
Message-ID: <01d1043e$bd619ef0$3824dcd0$@earthlink.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
 
>From all the comments over the past few years I know that David's comment is 
true. But I have always wondered "WHY?". What changed to make the rudder 
position sensor essential? 
 
  
 
Over the years I've had an Autohelm tillerpilot (800 I think) on a 27 and a 
Raymarine 1000 tillerpilot on my 25 with tiller steering. A Raymarine 3000 
belt driven wheel pilot. And there is a Navico 5000 wheel pilot on my 38 
(I'm sure it isn't older than dirt, but it is almost older than plastic). 
None of these has a wheel sensor - relying only on heading information from 
the fluxgate compass built into them to steer the boat. All of them worked 
well.  
 
  
 
The Navico took a bit of adjustment to the settings to optimize performance 
(I suspect the PO had never set it up since the wheel lock to lock setting 
was the default and not the proper number for the boat), but once set up the 
wheelpilot will steer the boat for miles and miles without a variance from 
the desired heading of over a degree or two. 
 
  
 
So what has changed with the newer autopilots to make the rudder position 
sensor so important? 
 
  
 
Rick Brass 
 
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2 
 
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 
 
Washington, NC 
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