Re: Stus-List Owners Manuals?

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Stu : is really reliable . If he has not sent them yet then there is a reason . 
I'll forward your e mail to him just in case there was an issue . 


Sent from Joe Bognar
C&C 30 1979 
In luff Again 11


> On Feb 6, 2016, at 11:16 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello C&C Sailors,
> 
> I recently bought C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 (if I'm decoding correctly; full hull 
> number is 30007972).  Up until 2012, this boat was named Ruby (after her red 
> topsides, I presume), and was in the Grand Traverse Yacht Club in Traverse 
> City, MI.  Does anybody know anything about the history of this boat?
> 
> More to the point of this email's subject, I ordered an owner's manual from 
> Stu Murray and sent a check to him at the address listed on the cncphotoalbum 
> website, but have yet to get any kind of response.  Is that still a viable 
> way to obtain an owner's manual?
> 
> Thanks in advance and best regards.
> 
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK1
> ___
> 
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> 
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Stus-List Owners Manuals?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello C&C Sailors, 

I recently bought C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 (if I'm decoding correctly; full hull 
number is 30007972). Up until 2012, this boat was named Ruby (after her red 
topsides, I presume), and was in the Grand Traverse Yacht Club in Traverse 
City, MI. Does anybody know anything about the history of this boat? 

More to the point of this email's subject, I ordered an owner's manual from Stu 
Murray and sent a check to him at the address listed on the cncphotoalbum 
website, but have yet to get any kind of response. Is that still a viable way 
to obtain an owner's manual? 

Thanks in advance and best regards. 

Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30 MK1 
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I thought I saw that online before but I wasn't sure where.  Thanks Kevin.

On 6 February 2016 at 22:29, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> http://www.goodoldboat.com/pdfs/GOB86HotWater.pdf
>
> On Sat, Feb 6, 2016 at 10:25 AM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey!  That's me!!!  :-)
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2016-02-06 11:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> One of our fellow CnC listers did a Hydronic install in his own boat and
>> had an article published in the magazine Good Old Boat about it:
>>
>> HOT WATER, WARM BOAT
>> BY GRAHAM COLLINS
>>
>> A hydronic system extends the sailing (and showering) season. Our C&C 35,
>> Secret Plans, was previously used as a racing boat, so the hot-water system
>> was stripped out at some time before we purchased her. As I’m not a fan of
>> cold showers, this had to be addressed. We also wanted to be able to heat
>> the boat so we could extend our cruising season a bit longer into the
>> spring and fall. We keep the boat on a mooring, so shorepower is not
>> typically available. The available fuel sources were diesel and propane,
>> and we wanted to install only one system...
>>
>> *Article Number:* 5583
>> *Issue:* 86 - September/October 2012
>> *Page No:* 27-29
>> *Read Online:* Not Available Online
>>
>> On 6 February 2016 at 11:48, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake
>>> Ontario I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to
>>> heat we would have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat
>>> show I gather materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear
>>> of screwing the installation up makes me put it off another year.
>>>
>>> Anyone have a hydronic setup?
>>>
>>> Tom Buscaglia
>>> S/V Alera
>>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>>> Vashon WA
>>> P 206.463.9200
>>>
>>>
>>> > On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Message: 8
>>> > Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
>>> > From: Russ & Melody 
>>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>>> > Message-ID:
>>> >
>>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Hi Steve,
>>> >
>>> > I should have listed install location in the
>>> > "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>>> >
>>> > The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
>>> > unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
>>> > on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
>>> > Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>>> >
>>> > Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
>>> > location with proper venting is the same for
>>> > both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
>>> > tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
>>> > if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
>>> > going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
>>> > get a little impulse pump similar to what the
>>> > Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
>>> > the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
>>> > easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
>>> > outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
>>> > tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
>>> > use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>>> >
>>> > On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
>>> > retirement cruising I will have both types of
>>> > heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>>> >
>>> > Cheers, Russ
>>> > Sweet 35 mk-1
>>> > Vancouver Island
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>>> >> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>> >>
>>> >> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>>> >> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>>> >> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>>> >> favourite things. But the only units worth
>>> >> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
>>> >> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
>>> >> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
>>> >> appealing because it's out of the way. The
>>> >> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
>>> >> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
>>> >> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>>> >> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
>>> >> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
>>> >> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
>>> >> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
>>> >> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
>>> >> them is good however and to your point, maybe
>>> >> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
>>> >> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
>>> >>
>>> >> Steve
>>> >> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> >> Toronto
>>> >>
>>> >> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
>>> >> via CnC-List 
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wro

Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Joe : send me your e mail off list . jbog...@sympatico.ca I did this last 
summer and I have photos. I found the thru hulls and ball valves at my 
chandlery . I did not need to replace the thru hull . I just had to re bed it 
and make a new backing plate 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Howdy Listers,
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
> (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
> diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
> it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
> remove the through hull from the inside.  
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
> them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Annapolis
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

http://www.goodoldboat.com/pdfs/GOB86HotWater.pdf

On Sat, Feb 6, 2016 at 10:25 AM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey!  That's me!!!  :-)
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-02-06 11:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> One of our fellow CnC listers did a Hydronic install in his own boat and
> had an article published in the magazine Good Old Boat about it:
>
> HOT WATER, WARM BOAT
> BY GRAHAM COLLINS
>
> A hydronic system extends the sailing (and showering) season. Our C&C 35,
> Secret Plans, was previously used as a racing boat, so the hot-water system
> was stripped out at some time before we purchased her. As I’m not a fan of
> cold showers, this had to be addressed. We also wanted to be able to heat
> the boat so we could extend our cruising season a bit longer into the
> spring and fall. We keep the boat on a mooring, so shorepower is not
> typically available. The available fuel sources were diesel and propane,
> and we wanted to install only one system...
>
> *Article Number:* 5583
> *Issue:* 86 - September/October 2012
> *Page No:* 27-29
> *Read Online:* Not Available Online
>
> On 6 February 2016 at 11:48, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake
>> Ontario I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to
>> heat we would have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat
>> show I gather materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear
>> of screwing the installation up makes me put it off another year.
>>
>> Anyone have a hydronic setup?
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 8
>> > Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
>> > From: Russ & Melody 
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>> > Message-ID:
>> >
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>> >
>> >
>> > Hi Steve,
>> >
>> > I should have listed install location in the
>> > "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>> >
>> > The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
>> > unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
>> > on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
>> > Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>> >
>> > Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
>> > location with proper venting is the same for
>> > both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
>> > tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
>> > if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
>> > going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
>> > get a little impulse pump similar to what the
>> > Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
>> > the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
>> > easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
>> > outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
>> > tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
>> > use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>> >
>> > On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
>> > retirement cruising I will have both types of
>> > heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>> >
>> > Cheers, Russ
>> > Sweet 35 mk-1
>> > Vancouver Island
>> >
>> >
>> > At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>> >> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>> >>
>> >> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>> >> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>> >> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>> >> favourite things. But the only units worth
>> >> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
>> >> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
>> >> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
>> >> appealing because it's out of the way. The
>> >> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
>> >> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
>> >> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>> >> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
>> >> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
>> >> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
>> >> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
>> >> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
>> >> them is good however and to your point, maybe
>> >> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
>> >> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
>> >>
>> >> Steve
>> >> Suhana, C&C 32
>> >> Toronto
>> >>
>> >> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
>> >> via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>> >> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use
>> >> a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6
>> >> hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat.
>> >> It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine
>> evening.?
>> >>
>> >> Andy
>> >> C&C 40
>> >

Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I just went out and purchased a Groco step-wrench. A little heat on the flange 
with a heat-gun softens up the bedding compound and allows you to turn the 
through-hull. The hard part was getting the locking nut off the through-hull on 
the inside. I ended-up cutting mine off as the through-hulls were definitely 
rose-coloured. Wood backing plates were also punky so they came off too and I 
made up new wood backing plates coated with epoxy (and later painted with 
Interlux bilgecoat). You have to shape the backing plates to the shape of the 
hull. I think I used 3/4-inch marine ply for mine.

All the flush-mount through-hulls I found were too small to use as 
replacements. So we filled the ‘cups’ with West epoxy and went with Groco 
mushroom surface-mount through-hulls. These had the added benefit too that they 
are a taper-thread so you get more than the 3 or so threads engaging with the 
ball valves. Another (best) option is to use flange-mount adapters on the 
inside but that requires either using fiberglass backing plates with studs 
installed or, with wood backing plates, drilling more holes through the hull 
for through-bolts. And those through-bolts line-up pretty closely to the edges 
of the filled area where the old flush-mount through-hulls were. I was 
concerned that the epoxy fill might not stand-up to the drilling. I might 
actually go back and install the flange adapters on the cockpit drains and 
engine intake. Quite a bit more robust solution in this area where there is a 
bit of potential for something heavy whacking the side of the through-hull. I 
recall reading of an errant spare alternator taking out a through-hull. Under 
the galley or head sink I can’t see much reason to use flange adapters.


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 3:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

It's  a step wrench. Defender sells them iirc. 

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Chuck S via CnC-List  
wrote:

  That socket trick is slick.  Plumbers use a tool for this that is fairly 
cheap.  It is made of cast iron and has several different sized steps to fit 
inside the valve and capture the two tits inside.  Another trick it to slide 
the handle of a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench inside and hold that with 
another wrench.  During removal, you are not turning this till the inside 
flange is removed, but simply backing it up.  During install, you hold the 
outside part while tightening the inside flange.




--

  From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List" 

  To: javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');
  Cc: "Antoine Rose" 
  Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1


  I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the 
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. Buy a 
cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then grind a 
slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches.
  You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly 
easy once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and 
healthy the hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange turned 
rose (meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace everything else.
  Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)




  Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit :


  > Howdy Listers,
  > 
  > I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
  > started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
  > (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
  > 
  > The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
  > diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
  > it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
  > remove the through hull from the inside.  
  > 
  > Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
  > them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
  > 
  > Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
  > 
  > Cheers,
  > 
  > Joe Boyle
  > Annapolis
  > 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > ___
  > 
  > Email address:
  > javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');
  > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
  > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
  > 



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Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Yup

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> David:
>
> This might be the boat..if so, the first part of the query is answered:
>
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/Hylas-Center-Cockpit-2542067/Fort-Lauderdale/FL/United-States#.VraRUuZ0e-c
>
> Beautiful boat!
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2016-02-06 1:27 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
>
> May I be so bold as to ask what the seller was asking for and the
> "ridiculous" offer that was accepted?
>
> Also where is the 35 and what  do you want for it?
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

This might be the boat..if so, the first part of the query is answered:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/Hylas-Center-Cockpit-2542067/Fort-Lauderdale/FL/United-States#.VraRUuZ0e-c

Beautiful boat!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-02-06 1:27 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
May I be so bold as to ask what the seller was asking for and the 
"ridiculous" offer that was accepted?


Also where is the 35 and what  do you want for it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Bill, yes it is.  Please could you check out how you would like to ship?  It 
will be coming from CT or RI depending on when in the next couple of weeks.  
There are Cotter pins and I think a shaft nut, but no shaft key.  It was making 
a nice paper weight in my office, but since I won't have an office in two weeks 
time...

Thanks,

Tim

> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:50 PM, Bill Blight via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Tim
> I am interested in the Mated offered in your e mail. I currently have a 
> Martec 18 x 10 which is too large of a diameter of a 3GMF engine.  Can you 
> please let me know if this prop is still available.
>  
> Thanks,
> Bill
> CC 35 MkIII
>  
> From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:12 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Goodyear
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>  
> Sam,
>  
> I have a 2-blade Martec Elliptic 17x10 RH folding prop for a 1" shaft that 
> you are welcome to try out for the cost of shipping (from New England).  It 
> came off my 35-3 with Yanmar 3GMF and 2.2:1 transmission. 
>  
> Fair warning, I replaced it with a flex-o-fold because I wasn't happy with 
> performance in reverse and occasional unbalanced opening (one blade more than 
> another) at low revs...
>  
> Tim
> (ex Mojito; C&C 35-3 Newport, RI)
>  
>> On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 11:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I have a spare prop I took off when I replaced it with a Max Prop, 17 X 10 
>> RH. We can talk. 
>> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LKRe8QHE_x8/VrLWbGMeEWI/EKU/Zl7I9s_8bVw/s912-Ic42/IMG_7534.JPG
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>  
>>> On 3 February 2016 at 16:35, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Sam,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop.  Good forward 
>>> performance.  Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it 
>>> works for me.
>>> 
>>> I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Jake
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Jake Brodersen
>>> 
>>> C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>>> 
>>> Hampton VA
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam 
>>> Wheeler via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Sam Wheeler 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Hi everyone,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the prop 
>>> had galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced.  It's a fixed two blade. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8.  
>>> They seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling 
>>> me that the specs for the boat and engine call for 10.  Does anyone have 
>>> any thoughts on this?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Sam
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Carston Grasvik 
>>> Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM
>>> Subject: FW: Propeller for C&C 35
>>> To: Sam Wheeler 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hi Sam,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated for 
>>> you has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine. 
>>> Please see note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Best Regards,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Carston
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: Ernel Elkin [mailto:prop...@pacbell.net] 
>>> Sent: Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM
>>> To: Carston Grasvik
>>> Subject: Propeller for C&C 35
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"!  
>>> UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12 
>>> TO 10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE.  IT WOULD PROBABLY  CRACK.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I LOOKED AROUND AND FOUND ANOTHER 18"X 10", BUT THE PILOT BORE IS 1-1/8", 
>>> SO THE CUSTOMER WOULD HAVE TO USE A BUSHING WITH IT AND HAVE IT REPITCHED 
>>> TO 8".  BUSHING COST IS $74 AND REPITCHING IS $150.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> KIND OF A WEIRD SIZE.  THE LOWEST PITCH AVAILABLE IS 10".  PLEASE DISCUSS 
>>> WITH YOUR CUSTOMER.  THANKS.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> ERNEL
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> 

Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

It's  a step wrench. Defender sells them iirc.

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Chuck S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That socket trick is slick.  Plumbers use a tool for this that is fairly
> cheap.  It is made of cast iron and has several different sized steps to
> fit inside the valve and capture the two tits inside.  Another trick it to
> slide the handle of a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench inside and hold
> that with another wrench.  During removal, you are not turning this till
> the inside flange is removed, but simply backing it up.  During install,
> you hold the outside part while tightening the inside flange.
>
>
> --
> *From: *"Antoine Rose via CnC-List"  >
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> *Cc: *"Antoine Rose"  >
> *Sent: *Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1
>
> I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside
> the flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing.
> Buy a cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then
> grind a slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches.
> You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly
> easy once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and
> healthy the hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange
> turned rose (meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace
> everything else.
> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
>
>
>
> Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit :
>
> > Howdy Listers,
> >
> > I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This
> project
> > started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
> > (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> >
> > The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
> > diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand
> proud of
> > it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
> > remove the through hull from the inside.
> >
> > Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might
> find
> > them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> >
> > Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Joe Boyle
> > Annapolis
> > 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I would have taken Tim's Martec too, but it looks like Bill beat me to it.

Jim, could you let me know off-list how much you would like for your fixed
prop?  My boat's hauled for maintenance at the moment and I'd like to get
the prop situation figured out soon before it's due to go back in.

Thanks,
Sam

On Sat, Feb 6, 2016 at 2:50 PM, Bill Blight via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tim
> I am interested in the Mated offered in your e mail. I currently have a
> Martec 18 x 10 which is too large of a diameter of a 3GMF engine.  Can you
> please let me know if this prop is still available.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
> CC 35 MkIII
>
> *From:* Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:12 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tim Goodyear 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>
> Sam,
>
> I have a 2-blade Martec Elliptic 17x10 RH folding prop for a 1" shaft that
> you are welcome to try out for the cost of shipping (from New England).  It
> came off my 35-3 with Yanmar 3GMF and 2.2:1 transmission.
>
> Fair warning, I replaced it with a flex-o-fold because I wasn't happy with
> performance in reverse and occasional unbalanced opening (one blade more
> than another) at low revs...
>
> Tim
> (ex Mojito; C&C 35-3 Newport, RI)
>
> On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 11:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a spare prop I took off when I replaced it with a Max Prop, 17 X
>> 10 RH. We can talk.
>> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LKRe8QHE_x8/VrLWbGMeEWI/EKU/Zl7I9s_8bVw/s912-Ic42/IMG_7534.JPG
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> On 3 February 2016 at 16:35, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Sam,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop.  Good forward
>>> performance.  Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it
>>> works for me.
>>>
>>> I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>>
>>> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>>
>>> *Hampton VA*
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam
>>> Wheeler via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Sam Wheeler 
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the
>>> prop had galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced.  It's a fixed two
>>> blade.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8.
>>> They seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling
>>> me that the specs for the boat and engine call for 10.  Does anyone have
>>> any thoughts on this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Sam
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: *Carston Grasvik* 
>>> Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM
>>> Subject: FW: Propeller for C&C 35
>>> To: Sam Wheeler 
>>>
>>> Hi Sam,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated
>>> for you has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine.
>>> Please see note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best Regards,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Carston
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Ernel Elkin [mailto:prop...@pacbell.net]
>>> *Sent:* Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM
>>> *To:* Carston Grasvik
>>> *Subject:* Propeller for C&C 35
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"!
>>> UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12
>>> TO 10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE.  IT WOULD PROBABLY CRACK.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I LOOKED AROUND AND FOUND ANOTHER 18"X 10", BUT THE PILOT BORE IS
>>> 1-1/8", SO THE CUSTOMER WOULD HAVE TO USE A BUSHING WITH IT AND HAVE IT
>>> REPITCHED TO 8".  BUSHING COST IS $74 AND REPITCHING IS $150.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> KIND OF A WEIRD SIZE.  THE LOWEST PITCH AVAILABLE IS 10".  PLEASE
>>> DISCUSS WITH YOUR CUSTOMER.  THANKS.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ERNEL
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailma

Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

That socket trick is slick. Plumbers use a tool for this that is fairly cheap. 
It is made of cast iron and has several different sized steps to fit inside the 
valve and capture the two tits inside. Another trick it to slide the handle of 
a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench inside and hold that with another wrench. 
During removal, you are not turning this till the inside flange is removed, but 
simply backing it up. During install, you hold the outside part while 
tightening the inside flange. 


- Original Message -

From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Antoine Rose"  
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1 

I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the 
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. Buy a 
cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then grind a 
slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches. 
You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly easy 
once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and healthy the 
hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange turned rose 
(meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace everything else. 
Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin) 



Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit : 

> Howdy Listers, 
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1. This project 
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded 
> (shall we say) from there. Mission creep! 
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25 
> diameter hole. The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of 
> it. I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then 
> remove the through hull from the inside. 
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find 
> them? I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can. 
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome. 
> 
> Cheers, 
> 
> Joe Boyle 
> Annapolis 
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia" 
> 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> 
> Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 


___ 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Jeff,

Is Wallas the diesel stove/oven that starts a blower when you close the
lid?  Cool idea for getting propane off the boat.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 6, 2016 1:19 PM, "Jeff Allston via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi Steve,
>
> I had a Wallas 30 Dt installed on my 32 two autumns ago. I live on the
> boat in Victoria over the winter so it gets a fair amount of use.
>
> I went with a professional installer and it took him two days to get it
> all done. It would have taken me significantly longer. The heater is
> installed in the port lazarette tucked up under the coaming. It's a bit of
> a pain to remove for servicing, but it's out of the way the rest of the
> year.
>
> This model heater has two hot air ducts and two cold air returns. One cold
> air return is under the cockpit seat on the port side and the other is in
> the cabin on the bulkhead behind the fridge. Both hot air runs enter under
> the sink and I have one outlet vent there. I ran the other duct under the
> stove, behind the water tank, through the hanging locker and, finally, out
> the bottom of the storage in the v berth. I wrapped the heating ducts with
> insulation. Don't skip this step.
>
> It works great. I went with Wallas because the national distributor is in
> town and I figured they would have all the parts and expertise I would ever
> need.
>
> If you want more details, and there are many, let me know.
>
> Jeff
> s/v Full Deck
> Victoria
>
> --
> Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 14:41:17 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running one
> on a 32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The
> literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I
> need the D4 :(
>
> My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard
> in the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance"
> trips in the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite
> cold up there.
>
> I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard
> with us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so
> it shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night,
> even in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I
> have ideas about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are
> out. I don't want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend
> money that could go elsewhere.
>
> The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they
> don't make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't
> want to be disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best.
>
> I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am eager to hear from
> others who have gone through it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
>
> ___ Email address:
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> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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>
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the 
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. Buy a 
cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then grind a 
slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches.
You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly easy 
once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and healthy the 
hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange turned rose 
(meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace everything else.
Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)



Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit :

> Howdy Listers,
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
> (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
> diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
> it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
> remove the through hull from the inside.  
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
> them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Annapolis
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 


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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to
set and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop
On Feb 5, 2016 6:59 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a
> Max-Prop is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those
> retail for a non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.
> Plus ongoing maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two
>> blade 16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade
>> Maxprop. Less vibration.
>>
>>
>> Doug Allardyce
>>
>> C&C 35-III
>>
>> "BULLET"
>>
>> Detroit
>>
>> _/)~~~_/)
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Jake
>> Brodersen via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Jake Brodersen
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>>
>> Sam,
>>
>>
>>
>> My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the
>> blades flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but
>> the prop does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years
>> old and has never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year
>> motoring though.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam
>> Wheeler via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Sam Wheeler 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, everyone!
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low
>> revs.  Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve
>> that issue?
>>
>>
>>
>> Sam
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Bacons in Annapolis have old parts like this as I recall--its worth checking 
anyway.

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Howdy Listers,
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
> (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
> diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
> it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
> remove the through hull from the inside.  
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
> them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Annapolis
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Bill Blight via CnC-List]

Hi Tim
I am interested in the Mated offered in your e mail. I currently have a Martec 
18 x 10 which is too large of a diameter of a 3GMF engine.  Can you please let 
me know if this prop is still available.

Thanks,
Bill 
CC 35 MkIII

From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tim Goodyear 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

Sam, 

I have a 2-blade Martec Elliptic 17x10 RH folding prop for a 1" shaft that you 
are welcome to try out for the cost of shipping (from New England).  It came 
off my 35-3 with Yanmar 3GMF and 2.2:1 transmission.  

Fair warning, I replaced it with a flex-o-fold because I wasn't happy with 
performance in reverse and occasional unbalanced opening (one blade more than 
another) at low revs...

Tim
(ex Mojito; C&C 35-3 Newport, RI)

On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 11:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I have a spare prop I took off when I replaced it with a Max Prop, 17 X 10 
RH. We can talk. 
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LKRe8QHE_x8/VrLWbGMeEWI/EKU/Zl7I9s_8bVw/s912-Ic42/IMG_7534.JPG




  Jim Watts
  Paradigm Shift
  C&C 35 Mk III
  Victoria, BC


  On 3 February 2016 at 16:35, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Sam,



IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop.  Good forward 
performance.  Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it works 
for me.

I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway.  



Jake



Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam 
Wheeler via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Wheeler 
Subject: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3



Hi everyone,



I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the prop 
had galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced.  It's a fixed two blade.  



The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8.  
They seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling me 
that the specs for the boat and engine call for 10.  Does anyone have any 
thoughts on this?



Thanks,

Sam





-- Forwarded message --
From: Carston Grasvik 
Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM
Subject: FW: Propeller for C&C 35
To: Sam Wheeler 



Hi Sam,



It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated for 
you has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine. Please 
see note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do.



Best Regards,



Carston



From: Ernel Elkin [mailto:prop...@pacbell.net] 
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM
To: Carston Grasvik
Subject: Propeller for C&C 35



HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"!  
UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12 TO 
10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE.  IT WOULD PROBABLY CRACK.



I LOOKED AROUND AND FOUND ANOTHER 18"X 10", BUT THE PILOT BORE IS 1-1/8", 
SO THE CUSTOMER WOULD HAVE TO USE A BUSHING WITH IT AND HAVE IT REPITCHED TO 
8".  BUSHING COST IS $74 AND REPITCHING IS $150.



KIND OF A WEIRD SIZE.  THE LOWEST PITCH AVAILABLE IS 10".  PLEASE DISCUSS 
WITH YOUR CUSTOMER.  THANKS.



ERNEL




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Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Joe at Zialater via CnC-List]

Howdy Listers,

I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
(shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!

The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
remove the through hull from the inside.  

Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.

Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.

Cheers,

Joe Boyle
Annapolis
1975 30 MK1 "Zia"



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Re: Stus-List messages.

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Responded "off list".
On Feb 6, 2016 4:14 PM, "Harald Braun via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi, I have responded to some of the questions yesterday but dont see m y
> answers anywhere. Is there something I need to do which I am not doing.
>
> Cheers
>
> Harald, spirit, wiarton
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Mine pulls 12amps until the glow plug goes off.
Rick. Paikea 37+

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 6, 2016, at 13:17, William Walker via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Graham,
>Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner installed 
> in port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well done, but he told me 
> about current draw and starting engine to get it going.  After its running 
> seems to do fine off twin house batteries.  
> Bill Walker 
> CnC  36
> Pentwater, Mi
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear of 
> any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to the main 
> cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have flammable vapor 
> in your main cabin then all bets are off...
> 
> And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two while 
> working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.
> 
> I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off batteries 
> all the time and have never had an issue.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
> I'm reading the marine installation manual and have some questions:
> 
> - Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not allow   
> exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline 
> tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of 
> these?
> 
> - Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small that I 
> can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the lazarette. 
> 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>> Hi Russ,
>> 
>> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind 
>> the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the 
>> espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this 
>> is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
>> 
>> Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal 
>> either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm 
>> not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport. 
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Steve,
>>> 
>>> I should have listed install location in the 
>>> "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>>> 
>>> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge 
>>> advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral 
>>> & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>>> 
>>> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper venting 
>>> is the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The tank can 
>>> be almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that gravity 
>>> feed is not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little 
>>> impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting the 
>>> tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high 
>>> enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything outside. Either 
>>> heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1 
>>> gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2. 
>>> 
>>> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will have 
>>> both types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>>> 
>>> Cheers, Russ
>>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>>> Vancouver Island
>>> 
>>> 
>>> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>> 
>>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I like 
>>> the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my favourite 
>>> things. But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove types, 
>>> which are super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have 
>>> drawbacks on a boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way. 
>>> The problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4 
>>> powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is that it doesn't 
>>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater would necessitate a gravity 
>>> tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, maybe in the 
>>> hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel smell. Most of what I've 
>>> read about them is good however and to your point, maybe more heat than the 
>>> D2, less money for sure. It

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Graham,
   Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner installed in 
port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well done, but he told me 
about current draw and starting engine to get it going.  After its running 
seems to do fine off twin house batteries.  
Bill Walker 
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear of 
any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to the main 
cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have flammable vapor in 
your main cabin then all bets are off...

And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two while 
working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.

I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off batteries 
all the time and have never had an issue.
Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 

On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I'm reading the marine installation manual and have some questions: 


- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not allow 
exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline tank in my 
engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of these?


- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small that I 
can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the lazarette. 5 
gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?


Thanks,


Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto



On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

Hi Russ, 


I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind the 
bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the 
espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this is 
pretty much how i have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg


Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal 
either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm not 
really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport. 


Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto



On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the Newport 
heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge 
advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral & I 
are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper venting is 
the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The tank can be 
almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that gravity feed is 
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little impulse pump 
similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in the 
cockpit combing area, that's high enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep 
everything outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon tank since you're 
looking at up to 1 gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the 
D2. 

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will have both 
types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I like the 
idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my favourite things. 
But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove types, which are 
super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have drawbacks on a boat. 
The espar is appealing because it's out of the way. The problem for me with the 
diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I really 
like about my boat is that it doesn't smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel 
heater would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where 
I'de have space, maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel 
smell. Most of what I've read about them is good however and to your point, 
maybe more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will my 
boat smell like diesel? 

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 wrote:
How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use a propane tent heater the 
warms the cabin for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat. It takes 
the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine evening. 

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RIÂ 
USA 02840

+401 965Â 5260


On Feb 5, 2016, at 17:29, William Walker via CnC-Lis

Stus-List messages.

[Harald Braun via CnC-List]

Hi, I have responded to some of the questions yesterday but dont see m y 
answers anywhere. Is there something I need to do which I am not doing.


Cheers

Harald, spirit, wiarton

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

>From my experience going from a Martek to a Flex, the Flex has a lot more 
>blade area, particularly in the outer part of the blade.

 

Gary 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 2:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

 

When I sent in an inquiry this was their response. I replied that a 16" prop 
was smaller than my current 17" Martek. They replied that they've sold this 
prop is what best works on the boat, that they had sold many of them and not 
had any complaints.







With a 3GM30, 27/3600 ( gear reduction ratio 1:2,61 ) we would recommend a 
2-blade 16x12R or a 3-blade 16x11-3R propeller for your C&C 35MKIII.

 

The price for a complete 2-blade 16x12R propeller with hub for SAE standard 
shaft is USD 1,205

The price for a complete 3-blade 16x11-3R propeller with hub for SAE standard 
shaft is USD 2,035

Price is incl. shipping costs with a door-to-door service by UPS from Flexofold 
in Denmark to the address in the USA (mainland). Please check if there are some 
local duties.

 

Unless someone has or recommends a different size  Flexfold prop on a 35 MK 3 
I'm going to order the recommended 2 blade.

 

Dave

C&C 35 MK 3





  _  

From: "Nauset Beach via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "Nauset Beach" mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> >
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 5:29:17 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

 

Dave,

 

Which Flex prop are you getting?  Do you have a Yanmar 3 GM30F engine?

 

Am looking at replacing my prop. 

 

Thanks

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 3:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

 

I'm with Tim. I had my Martek rebuilt last spring and was really disappointed 
because even after the rebuild it wouldn't always open evenly. I'm replacing it 
with a FlexFold. By the way reverse was OK you just need to get use to it.

 

Dave

C&C 35 MK 3

Saltaire

Bristol, RI


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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Dave via CnC-List]

When I sent in an inquiry this was their response. I replied that a 16" prop 
was smaller than my current 17" Martek. They replied that they've sold this 
prop is what best works on the boat, that they had sold many of them and not 
had any complaints. 





With a 3GM30, 27/3600 ( gear reduction ratio 1:2,61 ) we would recommend a 
2-blade 16x12R or a 3-blade 16x11-3R propeller for your C&C 35MKIII . 



The price for a complete 2-blade 16x12R propeller with hub for SAE standard 
shaft is USD 1,205 

The price for a complete 3-blade 16x11-3R propeller with hub for SAE standard 
shaft is USD 2,035 

Price is incl. shipping costs with a door-to-door service by UPS from Flexofold 
in Denmark to the address in the USA (mainland). Please check if there are some 
local duties. 

Unless someone has or recommends a different size Flexfold prop on a 35 MK 3 
I'm going to order the recommended 2 blade. 

Dave 
C&C 35 MK 3 


- Original Message -

From: "Nauset Beach via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Nauset Beach"  
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 5:29:17 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 



Dave, 



Which Flex prop are you getting? Do you have a Yanmar 3 GM30F engine? 



Am looking at replacing my prop. 



Thanks 

Brian 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 3:49 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 





I'm with Tim. I had my Martek rebuilt last spring and was really disappointed 
because even after the rebuild it wouldn't always open evenly. I'm replacing it 
with a FlexFold. By the way reverse was OK you just need to get use to it. 





Dave 


C&C 35 MK 3 


Saltaire 


Bristol, RI 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is 
clear of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 
'to the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you 
have flammable vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...


And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two 
while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be 
adequate.


I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off 
batteries all the time and have never had an issue.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I'm reading the marine installation manual 
 
and have some questions:


- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not 
allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a 
gasoline tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from 
installing one of these?


- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small 
that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in 
the lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a 
separate tank?


Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa > wrote:


Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere
behind the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat
likely). With the espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment.
Also with the newport, this is pretty much how i have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't
optimal either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and
the venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the
newport.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of
the Newport heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2
has a huge advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be
overlooked. The Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat,
also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with
proper venting is the same for both, so diesel odour is a
wash, so to speak. The tank can be almost anywhere for either
unit and if elevation is such that gravity feed is not going
to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little impulse
pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting
the tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything outside. Either
heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at
up to 1 gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less
for the D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising
I will have both types of heaters so I won't need to choose
which one is best. :)

Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be
honest, I like the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood
fire is one of my favourite things. But the only units worth
getting are expensive wood stove types, which are super nice,
but I can't justify the expense and they have drawbacks on a
boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way. The
problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an
A4 powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is
that it doesn't smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere inside and I'm not
sure where I'de have space, maybe in the hanging locker. I'm
concerned about the diesel smell. Most of what I've read
about them is good however and to your point, maybe more heat
than the D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will
my boat smell like diesel?Â

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use a
propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6 hrs on a
small canister, but it's not dry heat. It takes th

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hey!  That's me!!! :-)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 11:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
One of our fellow CnC listers did a Hydronic install in his own boat 
and had an article published in the magazine Good Old Boat about it:



  HOT WATER, WARM BOAT
  BY GRAHAM COLLINS

A hydronic system extends the sailing (and showering) season. Our C&C 
35, Secret Plans, was previously used as a racing boat, so the 
hot-water system was stripped out at some time before we purchased 
her. As I’m not a fan of cold showers, this had to be addressed. We 
also wanted to be able to heat the boat so we could extend our 
cruising season a bit longer into the spring and fall. We keep the 
boat on a mooring, so shorepower is not typically available. The 
available fuel sources were diesel and propane, and we wanted to 
install only one system...


*Article Number:* 5583
*Issue:* 86 - September/October 2012
*Page No:* 27-29
*Read Online:* Not Available Online


On 6 February 2016 at 11:48, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from
Lake Ontario I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in
addition to heat we would have hot water.  So, every year when I
go to the Seattle Boat show I gather materials and every the the
amount of boat bucks, and my fear of screwing the installation up
makes me put it off another year.

Anyone have a hydronic setup?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200 


> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
> From: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> Message-ID:
>   

>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I should have listed install location in the
> "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>
> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
> unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
> on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
> Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be
overlooked.
>
> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
> location with proper venting is the same for
> both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
> tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
> if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
> going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
> get a little impulse pump similar to what the
> Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
> the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
> easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
> outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
> tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
> use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>
> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
> retirement cruising I will have both types of
> heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> Vancouver Island
>
>
> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>
>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>> favourite things. But the only units worth
>> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
>> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
>> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
>> appealing because it's out of the way. The
>> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
>> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
>> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
>> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
>> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
>> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
>> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
>> them is good however and to your point, maybe
>> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
>> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
>> via CnC-List <>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:
>> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use
>> a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6
>

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Jeff Allston via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,
I had a Wallas 30 Dt installed on my 32 two autumns ago. I live on the boat in 
Victoria over the winter so it gets a fair amount of use.
I went with a professional installer and it took him two days to get it all 
done. It would have taken me significantly longer. The heater is installed in 
the port lazarette tucked up under the coaming. It's a bit of a pain to remove 
for servicing, but it's out of the way the rest of the year.
This model heater has two hot air ducts and two cold air returns. One cold air 
return is under the cockpit seat on the port side and the other is in the cabin 
on the bulkhead behind the fridge. Both hot air runs enter under the sink and I 
have one outlet vent there. I ran the other duct under the stove, behind the 
water tank, through the hanging locker and, finally, out the bottom of the 
storage in the v berth. I wrapped the heating ducts with insulation. Don't skip 
this step.
It works great. I went with Wallas because the national distributor is in town 
and I figured they would have all the parts and expertise I would ever need.
If you want more details, and there are many, let me know.
Jeffs/v Full DeckVictoria

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 14:41:17 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com

Hi All,
I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running one on a 
32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The literature 
indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I need the D4 :(
My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard in 
the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance" trips in 
the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite cold up 
there. 
I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard with 
us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so it 
shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night, even in 
August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I have ideas 
about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are out. I don't 
want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend money that could 
go elsewhere. 
The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they don't 
make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't want to be 
disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best. 
I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am eager to hear from 
others who have gone through it. 
Thanks,
SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto



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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

1. - no, it does not preclude install in that 
space (up high please) . your gas tank is vented 
outside or you will smell fumes regularly (I know 
this from a weeping leak when I had the A4).
Note: you may need to up-size ventilation for the 
space for the times the heater is on while you are running the bilge blower.


2. - 4 or 5 gallons will be plenty to account for your intended use.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 09:45 AM 06/02/2016, you wrote:
I'm reading the 
marine 
installation manual and have some questions:


- Under safety it reads: "The position of the 
combustion air must not allow exhaust fumes or 
flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a 
gasoline tank in my engine compartment. Does 
this preclude me from installing one of these?


- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? 
I'de like something small that I can top off 
from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place 
in the lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are 
others using if using a separate tank?


Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
<stevanpla...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside 
the cabin (somewhere behind the bulkhead I would 
imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With 
the espar/webasto, it's in the engine 
compartment. Also with the newport, this is pretty much how i have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the 
mast. Port side isn't optimal either. Now that 
I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the 
venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.Â


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the 
"Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.


The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead 
unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output 
on low settings, not to be overlooked. The 
Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.


Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank 
location with proper venting is the same for 
both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. 
The tank can be almost anywhere for either unit 
and if elevation is such that gravity feed is 
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then 
you get a little impulse pump similar to what 
the Espar uses. I would see about putting the 
tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high 
enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep 
everything outside. Either heater would like a 2 
- 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1 
gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.


On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for 
retirement cruising I will have both types of 
heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)


        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
        Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport 
heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid 
fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my 
favourite things. But the only units worth 
getting are expensive wood stove types, which 
are super nice, but I can't justify the expense 
and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is 
appealing because it's out of the way. The 
problem for me with the diesel newport is the 
fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I 
really like about my boat is that it doesn't 
smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater 
would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere 
inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, 
maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned 
about the diesel smell. Most of what I've read 
about them is good however and to your point, 
maybe more heat than the D2, less money for 
sure. It's still an option, will my boat smell like diesel?Â


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I 
use a propane tent heater the warms the cabin 
for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry 
heat. It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry 
the inside on a foggy Maine evening.Â

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RIÂ
USA 02840
+401 965Â 5260

On Feb 5, 2016, at 17:29, William Walker via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Steve,
  I have an espar  installed by po, no 
problems in five years.  But, 

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm reading the marine installation manual

and have some questions:

- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not allow
exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline tank
in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of
these?

- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small that
I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the
lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
wrote:

> Hi Russ,
>
> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind
> the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the
> espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this
> is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>
> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
>
> Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal
> either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm
> not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the Newport
>> heater. It can be tricky.
>>
>> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge
>> advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral
>> & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>>
>> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper venting
>> is the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The tank can
>> be almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that gravity
>> feed is not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little
>> impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting the
>> tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and easy to fit a deck
>> fill to keep everything outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
>> tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day use in cold conditions
>> maybe a bit less for the D2.
>>
>> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will
>> have both types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>> Vancouver Island
>>
>>
>> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>
>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I like
>> the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my favourite
>> things. But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove types,
>> which are super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have
>> drawbacks on a boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way.
>> The problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4
>> powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater would necessitate a gravity
>> tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, maybe in the
>> hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel smell. Most of what I've
>> read about them is good however and to your point, maybe more heat than the
>> D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will my boat smell like
>> diesel?Â
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use a propane tent heater
>> the warms the cabin for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat.
>> It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine
>> evening.Â
>>
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> PO Box 632
>> Newport, RIÂ
>> USA 02840
>>
>> +401 965Â 5260
>>
>>
>> On Feb 5, 2016, at 17:29, William Walker via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Steve,
>>   I have an espar  installed by po, no problems in five years.  But,
>> does have significant current draw at start up.  I need to start engine to
>> fire up unless on shore power.  After it gets going no problem.  Outlet
>> in main cabin, v berth  and head.Â
>> Bill Walker
>> Pentwater Mi
>> CnCÂ  36
>>
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>>
>>
>> --
>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running
>> one on a 32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The
>> literature indicates the D2 is good

Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!

[David via CnC-List]

May I be so bold as to ask what the seller was asking for and the "ridiculous" 
offer that was accepted?

Also where is the 35 and what  do you want for it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 16:35:34 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com

Congrats! 
On Feb 5, 2016 4:32 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"  
wrote:
The admiral and I have been talking about selling my C&C someday and buying a 
boat that is more comfortable to cruise. I've been watching a Hylas 44 on 
Yachtworld. After a recent price reduction we made a ridiculous offer that was 
accepted, so we are headed to Miami this weekend. If we like her and she has no 
major issues (beyond what the broker told us) the plan is to bring her to 
Annapolis late March, do the Bermuda race on The Office and then put The Office 
up for sale.

Anyone sail a Hylas 44?
Anyone want to buy a C&C 35/3?
Anyone up for a delivery (she has a full cockpit enclosure)?
-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

This popped up in a search on the Good Old Boat site:

HYDRONIC HEAT

I am planning on installing a hydronic heater system on my 1978 Morgan 382.
The article by Graham Collins in the September 2012 issue is perfectly
timed. I do have a couple of questions for Graham. One: if during warm
weather, we need hot water for showers but not cabin heat, does not turning
on the radiator fans prevent the heat from coming up? Two: how many amps
does the system draw with the heater and both radiator fans going?
*–Jim Cleary*
GRAHAM REPLIES

Excellent questions.

*One*: With the fans turned off there is not an appreciable heat increase
in the cabin, but obviously there must be some. I have been considering
modifying the system simply because it would be more efficient to only heat
the water tank if that is desired. To do so one could add a Y valve and a T
such that the fluid can be directed only through the water heater.

*Two*: Per the specification sheets, the Espar unit draws 4 amps on high,
1.9 on low. The fans in the radiators draw .9 (large) and .35 (small) each.
The Espar runs on high until the recirculating fluid reaches the set point
(160F), at which time it throttles back to low. In practice, my system
takes about 20 minutes with the Espar running on high to heat the 6-gallon
water tank, a bit more if the radiators are also on. Thus for my usual use,
the energy consumption is about 3 amp hrs. and about .07 gallons of fuel.
Hope that helps!
*–Graham Collins*

On 6 February 2016 at 11:58, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> One of our fellow CnC listers did a Hydronic install in his own boat and
> had an article published in the magazine Good Old Boat about it:
>
> HOT WATER, WARM BOAT
> BY GRAHAM COLLINS
>
> A hydronic system extends the sailing (and showering) season. Our C&C 35,
> Secret Plans, was previously used as a racing boat, so the hot-water system
> was stripped out at some time before we purchased her. As I’m not a fan of
> cold showers, this had to be addressed. We also wanted to be able to heat
> the boat so we could extend our cruising season a bit longer into the
> spring and fall. We keep the boat on a mooring, so shorepower is not
> typically available. The available fuel sources were diesel and propane,
> and we wanted to install only one system...
>
> *Article Number:* 5583
> *Issue:* 86 - September/October 2012
> *Page No:* 27-29
> *Read Online:* Not Available Online
>
> On 6 February 2016 at 11:48, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake
>> Ontario I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to
>> heat we would have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat
>> show I gather materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear
>> of screwing the installation up makes me put it off another year.
>>
>> Anyone have a hydronic setup?
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 8
>> > Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
>> > From: Russ & Melody 
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>> > Message-ID:
>> >
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>> >
>> >
>> > Hi Steve,
>> >
>> > I should have listed install location in the
>> > "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>> >
>> > The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
>> > unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
>> > on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
>> > Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>> >
>> > Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
>> > location with proper venting is the same for
>> > both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
>> > tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
>> > if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
>> > going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
>> > get a little impulse pump similar to what the
>> > Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
>> > the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
>> > easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
>> > outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
>> > tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
>> > use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>> >
>> > On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
>> > retirement cruising I will have both types of
>> > heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>> >
>> > Cheers, Russ
>> > Sweet 35 mk-1
>> > Vancouver Island
>> >
>> >
>> > At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>> >> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>> >>
>> >> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>> >> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>> >> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>> >> favourite things. But the only units worth
>> >> getting are expen

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

One of our fellow CnC listers did a Hydronic install in his own boat and
had an article published in the magazine Good Old Boat about it:

HOT WATER, WARM BOAT
BY GRAHAM COLLINS

A hydronic system extends the sailing (and showering) season. Our C&C 35,
Secret Plans, was previously used as a racing boat, so the hot-water system
was stripped out at some time before we purchased her. As I’m not a fan of
cold showers, this had to be addressed. We also wanted to be able to heat
the boat so we could extend our cruising season a bit longer into the
spring and fall. We keep the boat on a mooring, so shorepower is not
typically available. The available fuel sources were diesel and propane,
and we wanted to install only one system...

*Article Number:* 5583
*Issue:* 86 - September/October 2012
*Page No:* 27-29
*Read Online:* Not Available Online

On 6 February 2016 at 11:48, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake
> Ontario I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to
> heat we would have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat
> show I gather materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear
> of screwing the installation up makes me put it off another year.
>
> Anyone have a hydronic setup?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
> > From: Russ & Melody 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> >
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > I should have listed install location in the
> > "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
> >
> > The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
> > unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
> > on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
> > Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
> >
> > Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
> > location with proper venting is the same for
> > both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
> > tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
> > if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
> > going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
> > get a little impulse pump similar to what the
> > Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
> > the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
> > easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
> > outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
> > tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
> > use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
> >
> > On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
> > retirement cruising I will have both types of
> > heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
> >
> > Cheers, Russ
> > Sweet 35 mk-1
> > Vancouver Island
> >
> >
> > At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
> >> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
> >>
> >> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
> >> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
> >> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
> >> favourite things. But the only units worth
> >> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
> >> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
> >> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
> >> appealing because it's out of the way. The
> >> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
> >> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
> >> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
> >> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
> >> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
> >> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
> >> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
> >> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
> >> them is good however and to your point, maybe
> >> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
> >> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
> >>
> >> Steve
> >> Suhana, C&C 32
> >> Toronto
> >>
> >> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
> >> via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> >> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use
> >> a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6
> >> hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat.
> >> It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine
> evening.?
> >>
> >> Andy
> >> C&C 40
> >> Peregrine
> >>
> >>
> >> Andrew Burton
> >> PO Box 632
> >> Newport, RI?
> >> USA 02840
> >>
> >> +401 965? 5260
>
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>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
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Email

Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake Ontario I 
have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to heat we would 
have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat show I gather 
materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear of screwing the 
installation up makes me put it off another year.

Anyone have a hydronic setup?  

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> 
> Hi Steve,
> 
> I should have listed install location in the 
> "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
> 
> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead 
> unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output 
> on low settings, not to be overlooked. The 
> Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
> 
> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank 
> location with proper venting is the same for 
> both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The 
> tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and 
> if elevation is such that gravity feed is not 
> going to work for the bulkhead heater then you 
> get a little impulse pump similar to what the 
> Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in 
> the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and 
> easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything 
> outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon 
> tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day 
> use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
> 
> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for 
> retirement cruising I will have both types of 
> heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> Vancouver Island
> 
> 
> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>> 
>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport 
>> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid 
>> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my 
>> favourite things. But the only units worth 
>> getting are expensive wood stove types, which 
>> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense 
>> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is 
>> appealing because it's out of the way. The 
>> problem for me with the diesel newport is the 
>> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I 
>> really like about my boat is that it doesn't 
>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater 
>> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere 
>> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, 
>> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about 
>> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about 
>> them is good however and to your point, maybe 
>> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's 
>> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton 
>> via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use 
>> a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6 
>> hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat. 
>> It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine evening.?
>> 
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>> 
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> PO Box 632
>> Newport, RI?
>> USA 02840
>> 
>> +401 965? 5260

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