Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[svpegasus38]

Damn spell check. That was add a  "bail". 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Russ & Melody via CnC-ListDate: Tue, Apr 12, 
2016 18:25To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Russ & Melody;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Running Rigging Diagram

I wouldn't do that Doug. 

If that nail ever hit someone on the head it's gonna leave more than amark. ' 
might even ruin the day. :)

Cheers,Russ
Sweet35 mk-1

At 10:26 AM 12/04/2016, you wrote:

Bob, on Pegasus I replaced thestation bases so I clip the vang there for a 
preventer. I am thinking ofinstalling a nail on the end of my boom, and running 
a line forward tothe bow cleat and back again to a cleat at the stern. I'll use 
this whensailing long distances. I have also used a shroud chain plate. 


Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA. 



-- Original message--

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 

Date: Tue, Apr 12, 2016 09:59

To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Robert Boyer;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram


My vang is now led aft as well and I like it that way a lot.

Where do you guys hook the preventer on the deck end with boats nothaving a 
slotted toe rail?  I've used a block on the forward end ofthe genoa track but 
it seems like a lot of load for such atrack.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog:dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email:dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

On Apr 12, 2016, at 11:59 AM, Dennis C. via 
CnC-Listwrote:

We were racing an Evelyn 32downwind in heavy air years ago.  We essentially 
used the vang totrim the main.  As the main loaded up, we'd ease the vang.  
Asthe wind eased, we'd trim the vang in.  Couldn't have done thateasily if the 
vang hadn't been run to the cockpit.

That experience stayed with me when I was rigging Touche'.  Touche'svang is run 
to a rope clutch on the cabintop.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 1:38 AM, Andrew Means via 
CnC-Listwrote:
In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft and left the vang &cunningham up 
at the mast (a 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. Ifyou like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. AllContributions are 
greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I think he means “Bail”.

 

Why are nautical terms NEVER in spell checkers?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 9:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

 


I wouldn't do that Doug. 

If that nail ever hit someone on the head it's gonna leave more than a mark. ' 
might even ruin the day. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:26 AM 12/04/2016, you wrote:




Bob, on Pegasus I replaced the station bases so I clip the vang there for a 
preventer. I am thinking of installing a nail on the end of my boom, and 
running a line forward to the bow cleat and back again to a cleat at the stern. 
I'll use this when sailing long distances. I have also used a shroud chain 
plate. 


Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA. 



-- Original message--

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 

Date: Tue, Apr 12, 2016 09:59

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ;

Cc: Robert Boyer;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram


My vang is now led aft as well and I like it that way a lot.

Where do you guys hook the preventer on the deck end with boats not having a 
slotted toe rail?  I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but 
it seems like a lot of load for such a track.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com  
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

On Apr 12, 2016, at 11:59 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:




We were racing an Evelyn 32 downwind in heavy air years ago.  We essentially 
used the vang to trim the main.  As the main loaded up, we'd ease the vang.  As 
the wind eased, we'd trim the vang in.  Couldn't have done that easily if the 
vang hadn't been run to the cockpit.

That experience stayed with me when I was rigging Touche'.  Touche's vang is 
run to a rope clutch on the cabintop.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 1:38 AM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft and left the vang & cunningham up 
at the mast (a 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I wouldn't do that Doug.

If that nail ever hit someone on the head it's 
gonna leave more than a mark. ' might even ruin the day. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:26 AM 12/04/2016, you wrote:

Bob, on Pegasus I replaced the station bases so 
I clip the vang there for a preventer. I am 
thinking of installing a nail on the end of my 
boom, and running a line forward to the bow 
cleat and back again to a cleat at the stern. 
I'll use this when sailing long distances. I 
have also used a shroud chain plate.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.



-- Original message--

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List

Date: Tue, Apr 12, 2016 09:59

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Robert Boyer;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram


My vang is now led aft as well and I like it that way a lot.

Where do you guys hook the preventer on the deck 
end with boats not having a slotted toe 
rail?  I've used a block on the forward end of 
the genoa track but it seems like a lot of load for such a track.


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

On Apr 12, 2016, at 11:59 AM, Dennis C. via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


We were racing an Evelyn 32 downwind in heavy 
air years ago.  We essentially used the vang to 
trim the main.  As the main loaded up, we'd 
ease the vang.  As the wind eased, we'd trim 
the vang in.  Couldn't have done that easily if 
the vang hadn't been run to the cockpit.


That experience stayed with me when I was 
rigging Touche'.  Touche's vang is run to a rope clutch on the cabintop.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 1:38 AM, Andrew Means 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft 
and left the vang & cunningham up at the mast (a

___

This list is supported by the generous 
donations of our members. If you like what we 
do, please help us pay for our costs by 
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A preventer is intended to prevent the boom from moving in an accidental
gybe - hence the name.

If you are doing a controlled gybe, the process is to release the preventer,
use the mainsheet to pull the boom back on center, then gybe, then ease the
mainsheet, then reset the preventer on the other gybe.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 5:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Preventer

While we are on the topic of preventers, my understanding of the proper way
to rig one is as follows;

A big bowline around the boom, led up to a block as far forward as possible,
the back to a winch in the cockpit.

My confusion is about the purpose of a preventer: 

1. is it to hold the boom out?  Then if you do gybe, you can just gybe back?

2. Or is it to allow a controlled gybe? Presumably the above set-up would
allow one to ease the boom out at least until it was centered

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Rob, 

 

You should be very glad that you had the preventer on.

I was at the C&C Owner's Regatta at NYC in 2001, on the Sunday a cold front
went through with gusts to 50kts (this was the same front that capsized the
trimaran during the Mac race).

The winds had died down some by race time so we decided to go out.

Another squall line went through the offshore course while we were racing
and a C&C 35 Mk3 broached, the boom hit one of the crew on the head as it
swung across, killing him.

The boom flying across during a crash jybe can do a lot of damage to the
crew or the boat.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: April-12-16 17:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Preventer

 

Joel:

I am no expert on this but if your block on a genoa track can handle a
tightly loaded jib sheet it should handle the load of the main sail from an
accidental gybe..if the preventer is fastened without any slack, there
should be no jolt in the preventer..just the pressure on it as the main
is held in place and the boat lays on its side and hopefully runs up.

Been there done thatMarblehead RaceC&C 33 MKIIspin run,
following seapreventer.accidental gybe in a 5 ft. following
sea.really ugly but the boat, rigging, sails and crew all survived.
Really wished that day we had not had a 'preventer'.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2016-04-12 3:35 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

The shock load from an accidental gybe? 

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 2:32 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

Bob said " I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but it
seems like a lot of load for such a track."

If you are connecting the boom to a block on the genoa track as a preventer,
there shouldn't be much tension at all..what am I missing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




 






___
 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4545/12019 - Release Date: 04/12/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Refit of 29 mk 2 with Jabsco head

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I changed the OEM head to a Jabsco head on my 29-2 about 2 years ago.

My 29-2 is hull 693 / 1985 built in the US plant.

The old head was secured to the platform with stainless steel lag bolts
about 1.5 inches long.

To make the Jabsco unit fit / function properly, the following was
necessary.

-  Hand pump was reversed to the left side of the head

-  Even  with this change the base of the Jabsco hung over the edge
of the platform in the head. It needed to be shifted inboard so the seat
would flip up.

-  I fabricated a new, wider floor for the head out of ¾ inch
starboard. The new floor hangs over the inboard edge of the platform by
about 1.5 inches

-  New floor was fastened to the platform with stainless screws in
the corners

-  New Jabsco head was secured to the new starboard floor and
platform with stainless lag bolts about 2.5 inches long

The new head is very solid and has worked perfectly for the last 2 summers 

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com  

 

 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Starter switch in engine compartment

[James Nichols via CnC-List]

Are your there starter switches momentary switches that are all attached to the 
same relay for starting and stopping?
James___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I was a watch captain on a Chance 54 named "Glory" for the 1982 Vic-Maui.  One 
dark and stormy night in tropical storm reinforced trade winds (+-30 AWS with 
gusts higher) we were just barely able to carry a spinnaker with only the 
occasional spin out.



After a spin out that rolled the owner out of the bunk he stated, clearly, that 
if I did not take that helmsman off the wheel he "hoped I brought my checkbook" 
meaning I would be held financially responsible for damage. I did not remove 
"Doc" from the wheel because it was the wind and sea conditions and none of us 
on deck could do much better at keeping the shiny side up.



So, we make it to the end of our watch with nothing broken and my checkbook 
intact.  Its 3AM and the watch coming on deck thought maybe we should stay up 
in case the spinnaker needed to be taken down.  The new driver was the 
"rockstar" sailmaker onboard and seemed to indicate maybe we should leave the 
spinny up as "he" had it handled.  A few moments later he total loses the plot, 
goes by the lee and broached deep, so deep that he, holding onto the wheel was 
flipped into the low side cockpit filled with nice warm Pacific ocean.  In this 
particular type of leeward broach the main becomes backwinded.



Now, here is the connection to having a preventer:  On Glory we had a block and 
tackle prevent rigged to a pad eye also used for the spinnaker guy.  During the 
leeward broach, mainsail backwinded and fully loaded, the preventer fails, 
likely where it was attached to the deck, possibly the snap shackle.  The block 
and tackle lines (falls?) tangled in the "coffee grinder" handle and prevents 
the main from gybing by holding it firmly amidships.  The boat is pinned, mast 
nearly touching the larger waves, most of the crew dangling from our tethers or 
standing on something normally vertical (winch drums etc).



My self and my watch mates, pre-broach were sitting in the mid-cockpit close to 
the coffee grinders.  The preventer caught up in the winch handle was right 
above my head.  I got out my Buck sailing knife, got as low as I could and 
still reach the tangled line and just touched it with the blade. A light touch 
was all that was needed on a line that close to its breaking strength.



As the main was freed it swung down to leeward and the boat popped back 
upright.  Now of course the Rockstar helmsman guy was still disoriented from 
his gravity enhanced rotation and had no idea where the rudder was pointing.  
As the sails, both main and spinnaker popped full the boat accelerated for a 
few lengths then went full banana split and rounded down.  This time nothing 
got tangled and it was a fairly normal spin out.



Once the boat was back under control and it seemed safe to stick his head out 
of the cabin the owner said "OK boys its time to take the spinnaker down".  We 
spent the next 12 hours under twin headsails waiting for a to return to 
"brochure" trade wind conditions.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle



From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 2:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Preventer

But, if you hadn’t had that preventer, you may have lost your (old cast) 
gooseneck.

Don’t ask how I know.

Gary Nylander
30-1
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

While we are on the topic of preventers, my understanding of the proper way to 
rig one is as follows;

A big bowline around the boom, led up to a block as far forward as possible, 
the back to a winch in the cockpit.

My confusion is about the purpose of a preventer: 

1. is it to hold the boom out?  Then if you do gybe, you can just gybe back?

2. Or is it to allow a controlled gybe? Presumably the above set-up would allow 
one to ease the boom out at least until it was centered

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Shock load is the result of arresting the motion of the swinging boom 
(propelled by the wind in the sail). If there is no motion (the preventer being 
properly snug), then the limit of motion is the stretch in the line used for 
the preventer (LINE WITH STRETCH HAS A CUSHIONING EFFECT HERE) and the shock 
load is not much higher than the force on the sail before the gybe.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 2:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Preventer

 

The shock load from an accidental gybe?

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 2:32 PM, robert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bob said " I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but it seems 
like a lot of load for such a track."

If you are connecting the boom to a block on the genoa track as a preventer, 
there shouldn't be much tension at all..what am I missing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I agree with Bob. 

 

On many of our old boats the track for the main sheet traveler is the same
as the t-track for the genoa car. So the track should be strong enough. 

 

If you think about the forces generated by a 155 genoa are much higher than
those from a much smaller mainsail. In addition to which, the preventer
should be snug so the boom does not get a chance to move in the event of an
accidental gybe and there are no high shock loads to be dealt with.

 

On the 72' gaff schooner Jeanie B (of which I am the Master) with a 46' mast
and a 24' boom, we use 3/8" nylon 3-strand for the preventers with no
problems.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Preventer

 

Bob said " I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but it
seems like a lot of load for such a track."

If you are connecting the boom to a block on the genoa track as a preventer,
there shouldn't be much tension at all..what am I missing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2016-04-12 1:58 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:

My vang is now led aft as well and I like it that way a lot.

 

Where do you guys hook the preventer on the deck end with boats not having a
slotted toe rail?  I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track
but it seems like a lot of load for such a track.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer 

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  

Email: dainyr...@icloud.com  

Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

But, if you hadn't had that preventer, you may have lost your (old cast)
gooseneck.

 

Don't ask how I know.

 

Gary Nylander

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 4:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Preventer

 

Joel:

I am no expert on this but if your block on a genoa track can handle a
tightly loaded jib sheet it should handle the load of the main sail from an
accidental gybe..if the preventer is fastened without any slack, there
should be no jolt in the preventer..just the pressure on it as the main
is held in place and the boat lays on its side and hopefully runs up.

Been there done thatMarblehead RaceC&C 33 MKIIspin run,
following seapreventer.accidental gybe in a 5 ft. following
sea.really ugly but the boat, rigging, sails and crew all survived.
Really wished that day we had not had a 'preventer'.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2016-04-12 3:35 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

The shock load from an accidental gybe? 

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 2:32 PM, robert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bob said " I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but it
seems like a lot of load for such a track."

If you are connecting the boom to a block on the genoa track as a preventer,
there shouldn't be much tension at all..what am I missing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




 






___
 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Preventer

[robert via CnC-List]

Joel:

I am no expert on this but if your block on a genoa track can handle a 
tightly loaded jib sheet it should handle the load of the main sail from 
an accidental gybe..if the preventer is fastened without any slack, 
there should be no jolt in the preventer..just the pressure on it as 
the main is held in place and the boat lays on its side and hopefully 
runs up.


Been there done thatMarblehead RaceC&C 33 MKIIspin run, 
following seapreventer.accidental gybe in a 5 ft. following 
sea.really ugly but the boat, rigging, sails and crew all survived.  
Really wished that day we had not had a 'preventer'.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2016-04-12 3:35 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

The shock load from an accidental gybe?

Joel

On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 2:32 PM, robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Bob said " I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track
but it seems like a lot of load for such a track."

If you are connecting the boom to a block on the genoa track as a
preventer, there shouldn't be much tension at all..what am I
missing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List tabbing now gelcoat removal for barrier paint

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Steve,

A little baring of the soul here.  It was years ago before I knew as much
as I do now.  I wouldn't do it again.

Let me clarify that.  Given the solid hull construction (non-cored) and the
condition of the gelcoat and hull, the barrier coat was probably not
necessary.  Touche' did not have any active blisters.  There were a couple
but they had been competently repaired.  Should have just faired the hull
and painted.

There was a lot of gelcoat "pox" near the water line which I ground out and
repaired.  Seeing the pox may have tilted me toward removing the gelcoat
and applying a barrier code.

However, if a barrier coat is necessary or recommended, removal of the
gelcoat isn't a bad idea.  Gelcoat has very little structural strength.
Exposing the glass structure allows the barrier coat to better adhere.

As it turned out, the contractor pretty much botched the entire bottom
job.  I had it redone a couple years later by another contractor who did an
excellent job of fairing the hull and re-applying a barrier coat.  Touche's
bottom is in excellent condition now.

Overall, a painful and expensive memory.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 1:13 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>  "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote:
>
> 
> "First, after removing the gelcoat to have a barrier coat done,
> I saw a very small vertical crack in the skin out coat
>  (matte coat just under the gelcoat)."
> 
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Why did you remove the gelcoat to put on a barrier coat?
> I thought the idea was to prevent gelcoat blisters, not to
> act as a gelcoat replacement.
>
> The PO stripped off the gelcoat on my 36 and it is now an awful mess.
> There are big chunks coming off all over the place, both
> on the lead of the keel, and on the fiberglass of the hull
> and rudder.
> The white interprotect is coming off with a thin grey layer next
> to the hull, and carries a perfect impression of the glass
> fibre underneath. There is also a fine sparkle to the surface
> as if the underlying surface had been sandblasted, I don't
> see any good way to fix it now, and I don't understand why
> anyone would do that in the first place.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

The shock load from an accidental gybe?

Joel

On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 2:32 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Bob said " I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but it
> seems like a lot of load for such a track."
>
> If you are connecting the boom to a block on the genoa track as a
> preventer, there shouldn't be much tension at all..what am I missing?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Preventer

[robert via CnC-List]

Bob said " I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but 
it seems like a lot of load for such a track."


If you are connecting the boom to a block on the genoa track as a 
preventer, there shouldn't be much tension at all..what am I missing?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2016-04-12 1:58 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:

My vang is now led aft as well and I like it that way a lot.

Where do you guys hook the preventer on the deck end with boats not 
having a slotted toe rail?  I've used a block on the forward end of 
the genoa track but it seems like a lot of load for such a track.


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List tabbing now gelcoat removal for barrier paint

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote: 


"First, after removing the gelcoat to have a barrier coat done, 
I saw a very small vertical crack in the skin out coat
 (matte coat just under the gelcoat)."


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Why did you remove the gelcoat to put on a barrier coat?
I thought the idea was to prevent gelcoat blisters, not to 
act as a gelcoat replacement. 

The PO stripped off the gelcoat on my 36 and it is now an awful mess. 
There are big chunks coming off all over the place, both
on the lead of the keel, and on the fiberglass of the hull 
and rudder. 
The white interprotect is coming off with a thin grey layer next 
to the hull, and carries a perfect impression of the glass 
fibre underneath. There is also a fine sparkle to the surface
as if the underlying surface had been sandblasted, I don't 
see any good way to fix it now, and I don't understand why
anyone would do that in the first place. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List starter switch in engine compartment

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Just pay extra attention to where your fingers are resting before using it!

Bill Bina

On 4/12/2016 1:57 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


I have one. I have a fuse in line with it that is not normally kept in 
so that it does not get activated accidently.


It is very handy when you are working on the engine.

Joe

Coquina




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List starter switch in engine compartment

[Stu via CnC-List]

No reason why it won’t work.  In our motor home, we have 3 start/run/stop 
switches for the generator.  1 on the dash, 1 on the kitchen range hood and 1 
on the generator.  No problems starting from one position and stopping from 
another.

Stu ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List starter switch in engine compartment

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have one. I have a fuse in line with it that is not normally kept in so that 
it does not get activated accidently.
It is very handy when you are working on the engine.
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 13:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List starter switch in engine compartment

Sometimes it is desirable to be able to have a starter switch inside when 
working on my motor.

How have people on this list accomplished this?  Is it a temporary or permanent 
solution?

Mike

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List starter switch in engine compartment

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

If the terminals on your starter solenoid are easily accessible a hand held
switch like this with a couple of alligator clips and a few feet of wire
would work well.

http://www.vetco.net/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=10984&osCsid=t1h0qv9lp0843n8nhkltoav8j1

http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=10984

Ken H.

On 12 April 2016 at 14:35, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Sometimes it is desirable to be able to have a starter switch inside when
> working on my motor.
>
>
>
> How have people on this list accomplished this?  Is it a temporary or
> permanent solution?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List starter switch in engine compartment

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Sometimes it is desirable to be able to have a starter switch inside when 
working on my motor.

How have people on this list accomplished this?  Is it a temporary or permanent 
solution?

Mike

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[svpegasus38]

Bob, on Pegasus I replaced the station bases so I clip the vang there for a 
preventer. I am thinking of installing a nail on the end of my boom, and 
running a line forward to the bow cleat and back again to a cleat at the stern. 
I'll use this when sailing long distances. I have also used a shroud chain 
plate. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List Date: Tue, Apr 12, 
2016 09:59To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Robert Boyer;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Running Rigging Diagram
My vang is now led aft as well and I like it that way a lot.
Where do you guys hook the preventer on the deck end with boats not having a 
slotted toe rail?  I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but 
it seems like a lot of load for such a track.
Bob

Bob BoyerS/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)Blog: 
dainyrays.blogspot.comEmail: dainyrays@icloud.comAnnapolis, MD (presently in 
Baltimore)
On Apr 12, 2016, at 11:59 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

We were racing an Evelyn 32 downwind in heavy air years ago.  We essentially 
used the vang to trim the main.  As the main loaded up, we'd ease the vang.  As 
the wind eased, we'd trim the vang in.  Couldn't have done that easily if the 
vang hadn't been run to the cockpit.

That experience stayed with me when I was rigging Touche'.  Touche's vang is 
run to a rope clutch on the cabintop.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 1:38 AM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
 wrote:
In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft and left the vang & cunningham up at 
the mast (although there are fairleads installed for the spinnaker downhaul on 
the starboard side of the cabin). The rationale with keeping the vang at the 
mast is that if we attach it with a snap shackle we can remove it and use it as 
a preventer by attaching it to the toe rail when running wing & wing. 
cunningham and vang are also more performance-oriented controls, and we’ll have 
a more experienced crew when we race.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

My vang is now led aft as well and I like it that way a lot.

Where do you guys hook the preventer on the deck end with boats not having a 
slotted toe rail?  I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but 
it seems like a lot of load for such a track.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 12, 2016, at 11:59 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> We were racing an Evelyn 32 downwind in heavy air years ago.  We essentially 
> used the vang to trim the main.  As the main loaded up, we'd ease the vang.  
> As the wind eased, we'd trim the vang in.  Couldn't have done that easily if 
> the vang hadn't been run to the cockpit.
> 
> That experience stayed with me when I was rigging Touche'.  Touche's vang is 
> run to a rope clutch on the cabintop.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 1:38 AM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft and left the vang & cunningham up 
>> at the mast (although there are fairleads installed for the spinnaker 
>> downhaul on the starboard side of the cabin). The rationale with keeping the 
>> vang at the mast is that if we attach it with a snap shackle we can remove 
>> it and use it as a preventer by attaching it to the toe rail when running 
>> wing & wing. cunningham and vang are also more performance-oriented 
>> controls, and we’ll have a more experienced crew when we race.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

We were racing an Evelyn 32 downwind in heavy air years ago.  We
essentially used the vang to trim the main.  As the main loaded up, we'd
ease the vang.  As the wind eased, we'd trim the vang in.  Couldn't have
done that easily if the vang hadn't been run to the cockpit.

That experience stayed with me when I was rigging Touche'.  Touche's vang
is run to a rope clutch on the cabintop.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 1:38 AM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft and left the vang & cunningham
> up at the mast (although there are fairleads installed for the spinnaker
> downhaul on the starboard side of the cabin). The rationale with keeping
> the vang at the mast is that if we attach it with a snap shackle we can
> remove it and use it as a preventer by attaching it to the toe rail when
> running wing & wing. cunningham and vang are also more performance-oriented
> controls, and we’ll have a more experienced crew when we race.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I can’t comment on your routings because I’m told I don’t have permission to 
access the Google Drive. But I do have a comment based on my experience.

 

I tend to agree with you that the Cunningham is pretty much a 
set-it-and-forget-it sail control. Except when racing, when you may want to 
tension and ease going upwind & downwind to add power to the main, I tend to 
set it for the wind conditions when I first raise the main and then just leave 
it alone. That said, I still have it led aft to a cam cleat on the cabin top 
next to the winch for the main halyard so it can be adjusted when the sail is 
raised.

 

The vang, however, is a control that you will adjust pretty frequently as wind 
conditions change. And the vang is essential for sailing off the wind – 
particularly in lighter air. When reaching or running without a vang the main 
sheet will let the boom rise and twist off the sail – thus spilling air from 
the top. Useful in heavy air (when you should ease the vang) but a real loss of 
power in light to moderate air. So you won’t really be able to use the vang as 
a preventer.

 

I’d suggest getting a length of 3/8 or 7/16 line that you can tie to a bail on 
the mast and the toe rail. Or you can buy someone’s cast off soft vang or 4:1 
mainsheet on EBay for chump change and keep it for a preventer. Which is what I 
did for a preventer for my 38.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 2:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means 
Subject: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

 

Hi all - 

 

Thanks in part to the great advice everybody gave on  
 
this thread I think I’ve got a solution for the running rigging on S.V. Safari.

 

See here for my entirely too detailed diagram and description:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3H_qPPkESLKcHpHZVJhVzQ1TDQ 
 

 

Ideally I’d like to do 2B, even though everybody decries single-line reefing I 
think it really is best for the kinds of sailing we do and the crews we have, 
as very often I’m the only one who knows how to sail. Being able to say to a 
novice crew member:

 

“Wrap that red line three times clockwise around that winch and 
crank until I tell you to stop.”

 

is so much simpler than asking somebody to climb on deck and wrestle the dog 
bone over the reef hook (“wh- what?”), or trying to shout instructions while 
I’m on deck trying to wrestle the dog bone over the reef hook.

 

In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft and left the vang & cunningham up at 
the mast (although there are fairleads installed for the spinnaker downhaul on 
the starboard side of the cabin). The rationale with keeping the vang at the 
mast is that if we attach it with a snap shackle we can remove it and use it as 
a preventer by attaching it to the toe rail when running wing & wing. 
cunningham and vang are also more performance-oriented controls, and we’ll have 
a more experienced crew when we race.

 

Well, what do does everybody think?

 

Andrew

 

PS - If anybody else is savvy with Adobe Illustrator and wants to use this to 
map out their own running rigging adjustments let me know and I’ll be happy to 
send it over.

 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Forward bulkhead tabbing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Peter Fell recently wrote:  "I should point out as well this boat had
evidence of re-tabbing of the forward bulkheads in several areas both port
and starboard."

This may or may not be significant.  I upgraded the tabbing for the forward
bulkheads in Touche'.

Couple of reasons why I upgraded the tabbing.  First, after removing the
gelcoat to have a barrier coat done, I saw a very small vertical crack in
the skin out coat (matte coat just under the gelcoat).  In my opinion, the
crack was cosmetic but it lined up with one of the bulkheads under the
V-berth.  Second, inspection of the bulkhead to hull tabbing revealed thin
right angle tabbing.  The narrow width of the tabbing most likely created a
point load situation under that area.  The hull was probably flexing
slightly on the bulkhead which created the small crack.  The forebody can
take some serious pounding in big seas.

I added a radius fillet to spread the load.  Maybe I was being anal but now
when the boat pounds into a wave I feel better.  :)

During this process, I did find a small bit of delaminated tabbing which
got fixed with the re-tabbing process.

Lesson for all older model owners, get under your V-berth and inspect the
tabbing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Oh yeah. Couple things out of true there :) Fortunately my bulkhead and mast 
step do not look like that. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Peter Fell"  
To: "randy stafford" , "cnc-list" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 2:31:07 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 

Here’s a couple pictures of the one we looked at. The port-side bulkhead shot 
is a deceiving photo – you don’t get the full effect. But although I said 
1-inch before ... looking at the survey it was measured at 3/4-inch. You can 
also see how the mast step block was shifted, in the other photo. 
I should point out as well this boat had evidence of re-tabbing of the forward 
bulkheads in several areas both port and starboard. Perhaps another issue was 
they didn’t get things lined-up properly when they did it ... why they did it I 
don’t exactly know. I did discover the boat had been transported from Vancouver 
BC to Yellowknife, NT and (of course) back again. There’s a large chunk of that 
road that isn’t even paved. Draw your own conclusions! 
... now someone’s going to look at those photos and say ‘Hey, wait a minute ... 
I bought that boat!’ 
Peter Fell 
Sidney, BC 
Cygnet 
C&C 27 MkIII 
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 8:54 PM 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Fell, Peter 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 
Thanks Peter. I looked again tonight at the "gap" between bulkhead and floor 
pan on my boat. There's actually no gap, except at the lower inboard corners of 
the bulkhead where the door to the head is cut out of the bulkhead. In those 
corners there's a gap about a half-inch high and a half inch wide, on both 
sides. Just enough for the edge of a 2'x4' oval throw rug in the head / v-berth 
to squeeze under. Other than that the bulkhead butts up nicely to the floor 
pan, hull, deck, cabin top etc. all the way around. Everything is symmetric and 
looks undamaged. 
Cheers, 
Randy 
- Original Message -

From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Peter Fell"  
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 5:44:45 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 
Forgot to include the list in the ‘to’ 
From: Peter Fell 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 4:43 PM 
To: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 
That was about 4 years ago and I don’t recall all the fine details of all the 
discussions I had on the subject. There’s probably some stuff in the archives 
on it. If I recall correctly the gap was large on the port side and pretty-much 
non-existent on the starboard side and the mast step (or the pan) was canted 
off-level. The survey we had done suggested that the rig be de-tensioned to see 
if the bulkhead came back down. But the surveyor I must admit seemed somewhat 
baffled by it all. 
In the end we didn’t de-tension the rig as things started to degrade once the 
owner, through the broker, had me talk to a ‘C&C expert’ who swore up and down 
that C&C NEVER used untreated / unsealed plywood in the mast steps of 30-1’s. I 
think the were multiple things happening here  as I said, a mast step well 
on its way to collapsing, cabin sole pan in that area warping, rig tension and 
I also suspect that the mast brackets and/or the mast through-holes they were 
attached to were stretched-out, causing the cabin-top to pull-up under halyard 
tension at the turning blocks. 
There were some other less-than-forthcoming responses from the owner and in the 
end we decided to walk on the deal. 
So I’m assuming here you still have a gap with the mast out of the boat and I’m 
also assuming the boat is on the hard at this time and that bulkhead is being 
used for the support pads? Given there is a gap there, things have moved. Might 
be hard to line everything back up unless the boat was in the water but I would 
also think there’d be some ‘memory’ involved there as well. But I would suspect 
a 1/2-inch gap is probably in the ‘monitor it’ range. 
Peter Fell 
Sidney, BC 
Cygnet 
C&C 27 MkIII 
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 2:57 PM 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 
Thanks Peter. Does a gap between the bulkhead and cabin sole pan necessarily 
represent a problem? On my boat there's a gap of < 1/2" on each side. There's 
also some creaking noise from the sole pan in the head / V-berth area when I 
walk on it which makes me think the fiberglass of the sole pan has broken down 
some. But according to Don Casey's inspection procedures and advice (plus a 
professional survey), the hull is in good shape, and the boat is 44 years 
old... 
Thanks, 
Randy 
- Original Message -

From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Peter Fell"  
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 12:44:27 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 
Check the whole area of the bulkhead. We had a 30-1 surveyed that turned out to 
have a sinking mast step and also potentially other i

Re: Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew,

I think you should tell that novice crew member, 
"Release that black & yellow line going to the 
top of the sail, ease the mainsheet and then, 
Wrap that red line three times clockwise around 
that winch and crank until I tell you to stop." 


Seriously though, you could put them on the wheel 
and get it done right then take back the helm. If 
short of experience I often give the helm to 
someone who can follow directions and I do the 
work. In this manner I have full control of the 
boat. Not really suitable for racing of course as 
speed will suffer but at least things are more in control.


Whatever you do, please have a nice discussion 
afterwards and tell them the proper names for the things we do on our yachts.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet mk-1 35

At 11:38 PM 11/04/2016, you wrote:

Hi all -

Thanks in part to the great advice everybody 
gave on 
this 
thread I think I’ve got a solution for the running rigging on S.V. Safari.


See here for my entirely too detailed diagram and description:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3H_qPPkESLKcHpHZVJhVzQ1TDQ

Ideally I’d like to do 2B, even though 
everybody decries single-line reefing I think it 
really is best for the kinds of sailing we do 
and the crews we have, as very often I’m the 
only one who knows how to sail. Being able to say to a novice crew member:


“Wrap that red line three times clockwise 
around that winch and crank until I tell you to stop.”


is so much simpler than asking somebody to climb 
on deck and wrestle the dog bone over the reef 
hook (“wh- what?”), or trying to shout 
instructions while I’m on deck trying to 
wrestle the dog bone over the reef hook.


In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft and 
left the vang & cunningham up at the mast 
(although there are fairleads installed for the 
spinnaker downhaul on the starboard side of the 
cabin). The rationale with keeping the vang at 
the mast is that if we attach it with a snap 
shackle we can remove it and use it as a 
preventer by attaching it to the toe rail when 
running wing & wing. cunningham and vang are 
also more performance-oriented controls, and 
we’ll have a more experienced crew when we race.


Well, what do does everybody think?

Andrew

PS - If anybody else is savvy with Adobe 
Illustrator and wants to use this to map out 
their own running rigging adjustments let me 
know and I’ll be happy to send it over.


--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Routing of mast cabling from the mast to the inside of the boat

[schiller via CnC-List]

Corsair (hull #7) is done the same way.  Tricolor masthead (with 
strobe), VHF antenna, Wind, Steaming/deck, and Spreader Deck lights.  
All exit the mast near liner and go into the head to terminal blocks on 
the bulkhead.  From the bulkhead they go to the hull and aft to 
distribution panel and radio.


I thought about moving them to the bottom of the mast when I rewired but 
the Redwing bilge is so shallow that the wires in there (depth and 
speed, head water line) are difficult to keep up out of the way.


What Hull # are you?

Dennis is Hull #83 so I would assume that they figure out a better way 
some time between #1 and his.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Shrink wrap coming off today

On 4/11/2016 8:04 PM, JCRaha via CnC-List wrote:


We are getting ready to do some major mast maintenance on CIRCE our 
Red Wing 35/ C&C 35 MKI.


The question that I have for the List is how are your electrical 
cables routed from your mast to the interior of the boat?


On CIRCE we have 6 electrical/instrumentation cables routed through 6 
separate holes each of approximately 3/8” diameter at approximately 5 
½ feet above the cabin floor on the side of the mast.


Looking to improve how the cables leave the mast…Suggestions?

Thanks,

Chris Raha

‘CIRCE’

Gloucester, Virginia

jcr...@cox.net


 
	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
 





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!