Re: Stus-List reefing lines

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Jake is correct.  I put covers where the lines hit the clutches.

Joel

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Bill,
>
>
>
> I find that 3/8” works pretty well.  It’s plenty strong.  I think Joel
> used 3/16” dynema, which is probably even stronger.  It was also slippery
> enough that friction wasn’t much of an issue.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On
> Behalf Of *William Walker via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 10, 2016 18:56
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> *Cc:* wwadjo...@aol.com
> 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List reefing lines
>
>
>
> What size reefing line are others using on 36 foot + or - boats
> Bill Walker
> Cnc 36
> Evening Star
> Pentwater, Mi
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List reefing lines

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

I find that 3/8” works pretty well.  It’s plenty strong.  I think Joel used 
3/16” dynema, which is probably even stronger.  It was also slippery enough 
that friction wasn’t much of an issue.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2016 18:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List reefing lines

 

What size reefing line are others using on 36 foot + or - boats
Bill Walker
Cnc 36
Evening Star 
Pentwater, Mi

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Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

My transducers are under the aft edge of the berth in the forward cabin and
can be seen by opening the doors under the berth or opening the lid over
that storage area.

They all seem to be a bit different.  Perhaps Edd's is different because of
his shallow keel?

I also have a engine start battery under the forward end of the settee with
a small access hole to the thru hull for the forward sink.


Ken Heaton
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/

On 10 May 2016 at 17:37, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Wha?
>
> So your Depth and speed transducers are under the seat.  I have a battery
> there with a small access hole to the thru hull for the forward sink.  But,
> my transducers are under the forward end of the companionway floor right
> outside of the forward stateroom...weird.
>
> That said, considering how easy and accessible the A, C, D to B route is
> compared to trying to find a direct way from A to B, I'd go the long easy
> way.
>
> Tom B
>
> At 12:41 PM 5/10/2016, you wrote:
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 15:25:41 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: C&C List 
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question
> Message-ID: <7fd1cf84-4ea0-4c80-ab76-fb4690d3e...@schillay.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Listers with 37+?s or XLs,
>
> Please see this image:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/entb-wiring.jpg <
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/entb-wiring.jpg>
>
> Basically, I need to run a cable from point A (inside the cabinet) to
> point B (the access hatch under the cushion where my depth/speed transducer
> is) for data between my speed/depth unit and my MFD at the helm (I can run
> from A to the back of the boat/helm with no problem.
>
> Any ideas on how to run the cable? Is there space between the hull and the
> interior ?stuff? where I can snake it down? Would it be easier to run from
> A to C to D and then drill to B?
>
> My apologies that this doesn?t not apply to the whole list, but I want to
> try running this over the weekend and some health issues force me to find
> the easiest way possible in as little time as possible.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log < http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Selling The Office

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

JP,

The boat formerly know as "The Office" will reside at the Nyack Boat Club
where it will join another 35 MkIII, a 40 MkII, a 34/36+ (my boat),  2 30's
(MkI and II) and a few 29s.

If you find yourself venturing south, consider spending a day or night at
Nyack. We have a few guest moorings with weekend launch service and a 5
minute walk to some great restaurants, etc.

Best,

Eric Baumes
s/v Hee Soo
34/36+


On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 4:44 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  wrote:

> Will do. Nyack is just south of Croton Point. We're just north. I'm sure
> we'll see her. Thx
> JP
> 914 494 3618
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 7, 2016, at 9:15 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It will be in Nyack. Keep an eye out for her!
>
> On Saturday, May 7, 2016, JP Mail via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> The Hudson sounds good. We'll be moving Hideaway from RI to the Hudson
>> soon. I wonder if the Office will be near us.
>> JP
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On May 6, 2016, at 11:49 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Tomorrow I am selling The Office. (I'm doing the A2B on the Hylas).
>> >
>> > We all know the saying about the 2 happiest days in a boat owner's
>> life.  For me, its not true.
>> >
>> > First, I want to thank everyone who has provided advise, support and
>> friendship.  You are an amazing group of giving, non-judgmental and
>> knowledgeable sailors, marine electricians, mechanics and boat owners!
>> Thank you!  Second, like Danny, Tim and others, I plan to stick around.
>> >
>> > I went from being a guy who sails to a sailor while owning The Office.
>> Annapolis to Bermuda, Annapolis Newport, hundreds of day sails etc.  I
>> learned a tremendous amount about boat systems - with your help.  I've made
>> friends here and raced with some of you.
>> >
>> > The new owner will be moving the boat to the Hudson.  I'm confident he
>> will take good care of her, and I may even get to race on her occasionally.
>> Still, its tough to let her go.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Joel
>> > 35/3
>> > The Office
>> > Annapolis
>> > 301 541 8551
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List reefing lines

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bill — I’m using 3/8” (Cajun XLE) on my Landfall 38.  Maybe a bit overkill, but 
it works well.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 10, 2016, at 5:55 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> What size reefing line are others using on 36 foot + or - boats
> Bill Walker
> Cnc 36
> Evening Star 
> Pentwater, Mi
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Re: Stus-List reefing lines

[William Walker via CnC-List]

What size reefing line are others using on 36 foot + or - boats
Bill Walker
Cnc 36
Evening Star 
Pentwater, Mi
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Stus-List Foiling Cats

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

We've been having some awesome sailing weather lately.. Last weekend we 
had temps in the 80's and the wind was blowing 12-20 all weekend.. 


We thought we were 'Flying" hitting 8.5 - 8.8 knots on Take Five, watch 
what this kid is doing on his foiling cat: 

http://www.kshb.com/entertainment/38-the-spot-kmci/video-sailboat-goes-airborne


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



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Re: Stus-List Mast boot pic

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Don

Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca


> On May 10, 2016, at 11:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Here's a couple pics of the grey self fusing tape used for Touche's mast boot.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsaHF0RTBxZDFla1k
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List Selling The Office

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Will do. Nyack is just south of Croton Point. We're just north. I'm sure we'll 
see her. Thx
JP
914 494 3618

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2016, at 9:15 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> It will be in Nyack. Keep an eye out for her!
> 
>> On Saturday, May 7, 2016, JP Mail via CnC-List  wrote:
>> The Hudson sounds good. We'll be moving Hideaway from RI to the Hudson soon. 
>> I wonder if the Office will be near us.
>> JP
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On May 6, 2016, at 11:49 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > Tomorrow I am selling The Office. (I'm doing the A2B on the Hylas).
>> >
>> > We all know the saying about the 2 happiest days in a boat owner's life.  
>> > For me, its not true.
>> >
>> > First, I want to thank everyone who has provided advise, support and 
>> > friendship.  You are an amazing group of giving, non-judgmental and 
>> > knowledgeable sailors, marine electricians, mechanics and boat owners!  
>> > Thank you!  Second, like Danny, Tim and others, I plan to stick around.
>> >
>> > I went from being a guy who sails to a sailor while owning The Office.  
>> > Annapolis to Bermuda, Annapolis Newport, hundreds of day sails etc.  I 
>> > learned a tremendous amount about boat systems - with your help.  I've 
>> > made friends here and raced with some of you.
>> >
>> > The new owner will be moving the boat to the Hudson.  I'm confident he 
>> > will take good care of her, and I may even get to race on her 
>> > occasionally. Still, its tough to let her go.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Joel
>> > 35/3
>> > The Office
>> > Annapolis
>> > 301 541 8551
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List coolant hoses to water heater 33-2

[IRVIN via CnC-List]

Probably.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 10, 2016, at 3:53 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Anybody know the spec or a source for the orange-jacketed coolant hoses used 
> to feed engine coolant through the water tank's heat exchanger?   Looks like 
> I could use generic SAE 20R3 D-2 automotive type 5/8 heater hose, though it 
> is much thinner overall than what is in the boat, and would be less resistant 
> to kinking and chafe.  
> The hose in the boat is likely original,  and appears to have a 1/16" wall 
> orange jacket extruded over a 1/8" fibre-reinforced black rubber hose, which 
> itself is dimensionally similar to the SAE hose.   It has no markings 
> unfortunately.  Diesel truck heater hose?
> 
> Thanks, Dave
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Wha?

So your Depth and speed transducers are under the seat.  I have a 
battery there with a small access hole to the thru hull for the 
forward sink.  But, my transducers are under the forward end of the 
companionway floor right outside of the forward stateroom...weird.


That said, considering how easy and accessible the A, C, D to B route 
is compared to trying to find a direct way from A to B, I'd go the 
long easy way.


Tom B

At 12:41 PM 5/10/2016, you wrote:


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 15:25:41 -0400
From: Edd Schillay 
To: C&C List 
Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question
Message-ID: <7fd1cf84-4ea0-4c80-ab76-fb4690d3e...@schillay.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Listers with 37+?s or XLs,

Please see this image: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/entb-wiring.jpg 



Basically, I need to run a cable from point A (inside the cabinet) 
to point B (the access hatch under the cushion where my depth/speed 
transducer is) for data between my speed/depth unit and my MFD at 
the helm (I can run from A to the back of the boat/helm with no problem.


Any ideas on how to run the cable? Is there space between the hull 
and the interior ?stuff? where I can snake it down? Would it be 
easier to run from A to C to D and then drill to B?


My apologies that this doesn?t not apply to the whole list, but I 
want to try running this over the weekend and some health issues 
force me to find the easiest way possible in as little time as possible.



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Ken,

Thanks — So I can run the wire between the woodwork inside the cabinet and the 
hull. and eventually it will come down by the starboard water tank?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





> On May 10, 2016, at 3:40 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 2nd try at a link for the photo: 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mZ7qxlvWyENlamczTaf3vtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>  
> 
> 
> On 10 May 2016 at 16:36, Ken Heaton  > wrote:
> Yes Edd, there is enough room to fish a cable down directly from A to B.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> Assuming the link works, this photo shows that area with the top off of the 
> settee: 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/116809426602189633010/6283145822675301809#6283145841788640386
>  
> 
> 
> On 10 May 2016 at 16:25, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Listers with 37+’s or XLs,
> 
> Please see this image: 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/entb-wiring.jpg 
>  
> 
> Basically, I need to run a cable from point A (inside the cabinet) to point B 
> (the access hatch under the cushion where my depth/speed transducer is) for 
> data between my speed/depth unit and my MFD at the helm (I can run from A to 
> the back of the boat/helm with no problem.
> 
> Any ideas on how to run the cable? Is there space between the hull and the 
> interior “stuff” where I can snake it down? Would it be easier to run from A 
> to C to D and then drill to B? 
> 
> My apologies that this doesn’t not apply to the whole list, but I want to try 
> running this over the weekend and some health issues force me to find the 
> easiest way possible in as little time as possible. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
___

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Stus-List coolant hoses to water heater 33-2

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Anybody know the spec or a source for the orange-jacketed coolant hoses
used to feed engine coolant through the water tank's heat exchanger?
Looks like I could use generic SAE 20R3 D-2 automotive type 5/8 heater
hose, though it is much thinner overall than what is in the boat, and would
be less resistant to kinking and chafe.
The hose in the boat is likely original,  and appears to have a 1/16" wall
orange jacket extruded over a 1/8" fibre-reinforced black rubber hose,
which itself is dimensionally similar to the SAE hose.   It has no markings
unfortunately.  Diesel truck heater hose?

Thanks, Dave
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

2nd try at a link for the photo:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mZ7qxlvWyENlamczTaf3vtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

On 10 May 2016 at 16:36, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Yes Edd, there is enough room to fish a cable down directly from A to B.
>
> Ken H.
>
> Assuming the link works, this photo shows that area with the top off of
> the settee:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/116809426602189633010/6283145822675301809#6283145841788640386
>
> On 10 May 2016 at 16:25, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Listers with 37+’s or XLs,
>>
>> Please see this image:
>> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/entb-wiring.jpg
>>
>> Basically, I need to run a cable from point A (inside the cabinet) to
>> point B (the access hatch under the cushion where my depth/speed transducer
>> is) for data between my speed/depth unit and my MFD at the helm (I can run
>> from A to the back of the boat/helm with no problem.
>>
>> Any ideas on how to run the cable? Is there space between the hull and
>> the interior “stuff” where I can snake it down? Would it be easier to run
>> from A to C to D and then drill to B?
>>
>> My apologies that this doesn’t not apply to the whole list, but I want to
>> try running this over the weekend and some health issues force me to find
>> the easiest way possible in as little time as possible.
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Yes Edd, there is enough room to fish a cable down directly from A to B.

Ken H.

Assuming the link works, this photo shows that area with the top off of the
settee:
https://picasaweb.google.com/116809426602189633010/6283145822675301809#6283145841788640386

On 10 May 2016 at 16:25, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers with 37+’s or XLs,
>
> Please see this image:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/entb-wiring.jpg
>
> Basically, I need to run a cable from point A (inside the cabinet) to
> point B (the access hatch under the cushion where my depth/speed transducer
> is) for data between my speed/depth unit and my MFD at the helm (I can run
> from A to the back of the boat/helm with no problem.
>
> Any ideas on how to run the cable? Is there space between the hull and the
> interior “stuff” where I can snake it down? Would it be easier to run from
> A to C to D and then drill to B?
>
> My apologies that this doesn’t not apply to the whole list, but I want to
> try running this over the weekend and some health issues force me to find
> the easiest way possible in as little time as possible.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List composting head

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


I put in a composting head last year.  Really like it.  I will
  admit it adds a bit of an extra challenge when having guests
  because you need to explain the process a little --- but not
  really that much different that a manual toilet that requires a
  lesson for toilet use.  Some people find it a little "gross".
I put in a Natures Head.  Works well.  No flies in the first
  year.  Less smell than my old toilet.  I've not yet completely
  removed my old hoses - as I wanted to make sure before I removed
  the seacocks.


One suggestion (that I have yet to employ) is to put a small 12V
  pump (say a car windshield washer fluid pump) on a switch to pump
  the liquids out of the small tank and into the sink drain pipe. 
  That solve the problem of carrying a jug of urine around and
  dumping it.


Mark







There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-05-10 2:12 PM, Della Barba, Joe
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  

  
Does
anyone have a composting head?
I
am really thinking about this – the 35 MK I really has
no room for much of a holding tank.

Joe
Coquina
C&C
35 MK I with a small holding tank
  

  
  
  
  
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Stus-List Running wires in small spaces

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I was trying to run a chartplotter cable (apparently the cable guys at Ray
have never done an install) and was having trouble getting the fuse holder
through the hole.  A shot of McLube solved the problem - slid right
through.  Simple Green works too and is less expensive.  It would probably
work on hoses too.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers with 37+’s or XLs,

Please see this image: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/entb-wiring.jpg 
 

Basically, I need to run a cable from point A (inside the cabinet) to point B 
(the access hatch under the cushion where my depth/speed transducer is) for 
data between my speed/depth unit and my MFD at the helm (I can run from A to 
the back of the boat/helm with no problem.

Any ideas on how to run the cable? Is there space between the hull and the 
interior “stuff” where I can snake it down? Would it be easier to run from A to 
C to D and then drill to B? 

My apologies that this doesn’t not apply to the whole list, but I want to try 
running this over the weekend and some health issues force me to find the 
easiest way possible in as little time as possible. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 












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Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Oak Harbor Marina in Pasadena Md. is both closer and likely less expensive. I 
know lots of people who have used it. They specialize in restoration.
Dan
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Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension

[Chris via CnC-List]

Awesome, thank you.



From:   "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
To: CnClist , 
Cc: "Dennis C." 
Date:   05/10/2016 08:44 AM
Subject:Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension
Sent by:"CnC-List" 



First, go here:  
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/rod_rig_tuning.htm

If entering via the website home page, go to the DIY link on the left side 
bar and then find the Rod Rigging - Generic Tune link.

The first few steps will instruct you on how to center the masthead and 
make sure the mast is in column.  Next it deals with rake.

For boats with double lower shrouds, the tension settings below should be 
a good starting point.  They are stated in terms of wire breaking strength 
so the are wire size independent.

Uppers - 21%
Forward lowers - 14%
Aft lowers - 5-6%

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List composting head

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

It may depend how much you use it and your regional climate. 


I know that many composting devotees praise the system however, 2 
neighboring boats have one and both kinda wish they didn't. 

On one boat it's a live aboard couple, the PO (Whom installed the 
composting head because he had found it for almost nothing, tried it / 
liked it) they say that the smell is not necessary an issue but having to 
frequently drain the liquid stuff and the occasional fly issues is grating 
on their nerves. They would prefer to pump and may reconvert the boat. 

The other boat is a single guy, hard core live aboard with all the latest 
ideas on his boat and he's also complaining about flies "if you don't stay 
on top of it with the wet and dry balance" whatever that means. In any 
case, he thought it would be ideal as he's contemplating getting off the 
lake for extended cruising, now he's questioning if that was such a great 
idea.. 

Here's a link on fly and other issues..  
https://yodersafloat.wordpress.com/2012/07/06/762012-a-confession-21/


My 2 cents.. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 




Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 17:12:56 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Subject: Stus-List composting head
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Does anyone have a composting head?
I am really thinking about this ? the 35 MK I really has no room for much 
of a holding tank.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I with a small holding tank
-- next part --


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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used the auto supply stuff -  “weapons-grade” is not so available up
> here in Canada! 😉.
>
> I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the
> mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did
> not do complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told me not to in shop
> class back in ’78.   (lawn mower valves – different thing as they don’t
> rotate in use.)
>
> Again, make sure you reassemble the parts as they were removed, (mark with
> a punch) and be really careful to clean away the compound.   A solvent wash
> will show you how much grit there is, and how gritty is that grit.
>
>
>
> Here is a pretty decent link on this, one of the posts refers to a site
> with photos, where you can see the various parts.   You will need a gear
> puller.
>
>
>
> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154931
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 1
>
> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 09:07:32 -0400
>
> From: "Rick Brass" 
>
> To: 
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>
> Message-ID: <004b01d1aabc$ea4ca480$bee5ed80$@earthlink.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C&C Landfall 38
"Nina"
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Re: Stus-List composting head

[Evan Morgan via CnC-List]

We also had an Airhead on our 26. Loved it so much it moved with us to the 
Pearson 424.
It has some idiosyncrasies (nothing major) but being able to live life without 
sewer plumbing in a boat is WELL worth it.



From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2016 1:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer
Subject: Re: Stus-List composting head

I have an AirHead-brand composting toilet and it works great!  We've had it for 
almost a year now.  I have written two blog posts on it if you are interested.  
No odors whatsoever!!!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

On May 10, 2016, at 1:12 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Does anyone have a composting head?
I am really thinking about this – the 35 MK I really has no room for much of a 
holding tank. 
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I with a small holding tank
___

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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List composting head

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have an AirHead-brand composting toilet and it works great!  We've had it for 
almost a year now.  I have written two blog posts on it if you are interested.  
No odors whatsoever!!!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 10, 2016, at 1:12 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a composting head?
> I am really thinking about this – the 35 MK I really has no room for much of 
> a holding tank.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I with a small holding tank
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

I used the auto supply stuff -  “weapons-grade” is not so available up here in 
Canada! 😉.  
I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the 
mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did not do 
complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told me not to in shop class back 
in ’78.   (lawn mower valves – different thing as they don’t rotate in use.)
Again, make sure you reassemble the parts as they were removed, (mark with a 
punch) and be really careful to clean away the compound.   A solvent wash will 
show you how much grit there is, and how gritty is that grit.  

Here is a pretty decent link on this, one of the posts refers to a site with 
photos, where you can see the various parts.   You will need a gear puller.

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154931

Dave




Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 09:07:32 -0400
From: "Rick Brass" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
Message-ID: <004b01d1aabc$ea4ca480$bee5ed80$@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.



http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true






http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx



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Re: Stus-List composting head

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

There's a big named the Atlantic ocean...  lol
On May 10, 2016 1:16 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a composting head?
>
> I am really thinking about this – the 35 MK I really has no room for much
> of a holding tank.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I with a small holding tank
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List composting head

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a composting head?
I am really thinking about this – the 35 MK I really has no room for much of a 
holding tank.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I with a small holding tank
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Re: Stus-List Mast boot pic

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Sorry, I don't have brand info.  I bought it off eBay.  Came in plain
packaging with no info.

Dennis C.

On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 10:43 AM, Kevin Driscoll 
wrote:

> The tape looks great Dennis. Do you happen to remember what brand you are
> using and where you got it from?  I like the 2" idea better than the 5"
> for ease of wrapping / avoiding the running rigging.
>
> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 8:03 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Here's a couple pics of the grey self fusing tape used for Touche's mast
>> boot.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsaHF0RTBxZDFla1k
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Mast boot pic

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

The tape looks great Dennis. Do you happen to remember what brand you are
using and where you got it from?  I like the 2" idea better than the 5" for
ease of wrapping / avoiding the running rigging.

On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 8:03 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here's a couple pics of the grey self fusing tape used for Touche's mast
> boot.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsaHF0RTBxZDFla1k
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

My experiences with Atlantic Spars was not good. 

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 10:27 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Not very convenient, but Herrington Harbor North has excellent trades on site. 
 Atlantic Spars for rigging and rudders, Osprey for fiberglass.  Plenty of 
mechanics as well.
Jabins would be closer but more expensive.
Whitehall Marina has a good reputation but I have not used them.
JoelAnnapolisHylas 44Atlantis
On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 10:17 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I am looking to have some fairly major work done to my 37/40 this summer.
Rudder removal/ repair, rigging inspection replacement, keel stub 
inspection/repair, engine inspection/ rebuild, Awlgrip repair. 
Has anyone had work done on the Upper Chesapeake? I am located in Havre de 
Grace but willing to go where the work is reliable.
My plan is to prepare the boat for offshore sailing. 
Any first hand experience with yards is appreciated.
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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Mast boot pic

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Here's a couple pics of the grey self fusing tape used for Touche's mast
boot.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsaHF0RTBxZDFla1k

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

No brothers split--it was a family issue though.  Hartge Yacht Yard is across 
the peninsula from Hartge Yacht Harbor.  Talk to Luke Frey at Hartge Yacht 
Yard.  I have his phone number if you need it..

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 10, 2016, at 10:32 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob, 
> 
> Which one now that the brothers split?
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 10:29 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I highly recommend Hartge's Yacht Yard in Galesville.
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>> 
>>> On May 10, 2016, at 10:17 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am looking to have some fairly major work done to my 37/40 this summer.
>>> Rudder removal/ repair, rigging inspection replacement, keel stub 
>>> inspection/repair, engine inspection/ rebuild, Awlgrip repair. 
>>> Has anyone had work done on the Upper Chesapeake? I am located in Havre de 
>>> Grace but willing to go where the work is reliable.
>>> My plan is to prepare the boat for offshore sailing. 
>>> Any first hand experience with yards is appreciated.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I highly recommend Hartge's Yacht Yard in Galesville.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 10, 2016, at 10:17 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am looking to have some fairly major work done to my 37/40 this summer.
> Rudder removal/ repair, rigging inspection replacement, keel stub 
> inspection/repair, engine inspection/ rebuild, Awlgrip repair. 
> Has anyone had work done on the Upper Chesapeake? I am located in Havre de 
> Grace but willing to go where the work is reliable.
> My plan is to prepare the boat for offshore sailing. 
> Any first hand experience with yards is appreciated.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Bob,

Which one now that the brothers split?

Joel

On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 10:29 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I highly recommend Hartge's Yacht Yard in Galesville.
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
> On May 10, 2016, at 10:17 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am looking to have some fairly major work done to my 37/40 this summer.
> Rudder removal/ repair, rigging inspection replacement, keel stub
> inspection/repair, engine inspection/ rebuild, Awlgrip repair.
> Has anyone had work done on the Upper Chesapeake? I am located in Havre de
> Grace but willing to go where the work is reliable.
> My plan is to prepare the boat for offshore sailing.
> Any first hand experience with yards is appreciated.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Not very convenient, but Herrington Harbor North has excellent trades on
site.  Atlantic Spars for rigging and rudders, Osprey for fiberglass.
Plenty of mechanics as well.

Jabins would be closer but more expensive.

Whitehall Marina has a good reputation but I have not used them.

Joel
Annapolis
Hylas 44
Atlantis

On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 10:17 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am looking to have some fairly major work done to my 37/40 this summer.
> Rudder removal/ repair, rigging inspection replacement, keel stub
> inspection/repair, engine inspection/ rebuild, Awlgrip repair.
> Has anyone had work done on the Upper Chesapeake? I am located in Havre de
> Grace but willing to go where the work is reliable.
> My plan is to prepare the boat for offshore sailing.
> Any first hand experience with yards is appreciated.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Try clearing browser cache. Sometimes a redirect gets muddled in. I had that 
problem with Leevalley when the did mtc on their site, my browser always wanted 
to Goto their site temporarily down page instead of regular home page.
If you can start by clearing browser history,If that doesn't work move on to 
cache clearing completely. 



Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-10  12:27 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Peter Fell  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website 




Thanks guys.
 
It’s a mystery at this point.


 

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Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I am looking to have some fairly major work done to my 37/40 this summer.
Rudder removal/ repair, rigging inspection replacement, keel stub
inspection/repair, engine inspection/ rebuild, Awlgrip repair.
Has anyone had work done on the Upper Chesapeake? I am located in Havre de
Grace but willing to go where the work is reliable.
My plan is to prepare the boat for offshore sailing.
Any first hand experience with yards is appreciated.
___

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

First, go here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/rod_rig_tuning.htm

If entering via the website home page, go to the DIY link on the left side
bar and then find the Rod Rigging - Generic Tune link.

The first few steps will instruct you on how to center the masthead and
make sure the mast is in column.  Next it deals with rake.

For boats with double lower shrouds, the tension settings below should be a
good starting point.  They are stated in terms of wire breaking strength so
the are wire size independent.

Uppers - 21%
Forward lowers - 14%
Aft lowers - 5-6%

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Transducers protruding

[J Roger via CnC-List]

Thanks James

Wish I could figure out this board.
I can't see my original thread.
Picture was too large so I re-submitted smaller but
it looks like I'm in the dog house.
Too bad cause the crane is coming and I'm running out of time.
Cheers

JB



On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 2:58 PM, James Nichols via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> JohnBob,
>
> You can counter sink the transducer with a router.  I use a set like
> http://amzn.com/B00012XC5C
>
> That way I can use the inside of the hole as my guide and use a bearing
> that is small enough to give me the width of cut that I want.
>
> Be sure that you cut the counter sink slightly deeper and slightly wider
> than the flange on the transducer and then back fill with epoxy so that the
> internal grain of the glass, or the core isn't exposed.
>
> Along the same lines as drilling out too big a hole for your through hull,
>  back filing it to protect the core and then redrilling for the right size.
>
> James
> S/V Kristy
> 1971 C&C 39
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.

 

http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Davis 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2016 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Davis 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

 

Hi Dave,

 

Is the lapping compound you used something like this?

 

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx

 

Regards,

Brian

1980 Landfall 38

 

 

 

On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Dave via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse thing 
as well as the low rpm banging only.  

The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical surface on 
each each end that mates with one mating female cone for forward,  and the 
other mating female cone for reverse.In neutral, the conical clutch sits 
between both and engages neither.  Forward is used a lot more, therefore it 
glazes first.  

As to rpm- these boats do not have thrust bearings so the prop thrust pushes 
forward on the engine/trans and ultimately the mounts.   It does so via the 
trans, so the thrust overcomes the slip at a certain point and the banging 
stops.

Before long it will slip irrespective of rpm, and get so bad that you will 
think the strut will be sheared off the hull.  

Per instructions in the internet I used valve lapping compound.  Did not 
rebuild the gearbox, only lapped the cones.  the halves use no gaskets, just 
silicone.  

I used a punch to mark the orientation of the cone and any other parts and was 
very careful to clean any residual lapping compound out of the transmission.  

Worked perfectly.  

Make sure you secure the prop shaft so it can't fall out.

 

 

Dave.

 

Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 15:40:53 -0700
From: Andrew Means mailto:andrew.cnc...@gmail.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
Message-ID: mailto:etPan.572fc098.5095526e.13b@worsley.local> >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Boat: 1977 C&C 34
Engine: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
Prop: 3 Blade Max Prop

Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it almost 
feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like a piece of 
kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400 or so the 
roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.

Sent from my iPhone


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-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C&C Landfall 38

"Nina"

  

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avast.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I'm curious about the lapping compound procedure you described. I just
finished replacing the brake band that engages the reverse gear in my
Paragon transmission.  I got everything put back together perfectly, cut
new gaskets, and adjusted both forward and reverse to what seemed logical.
Runs smooth and forward works great, but I'm getting some slipping in
reverse.  Trying to carefully adjust it further tonight when I get there.
Am thinking now about picking up a jar of the lapping compound.  How was it
to apply? And did you basically just apply a thin coat on the drum as you
turned it..?

Thanks for sharing.
Brian

On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 8:46 AM, Brian Davis 
wrote:

> Hi Dave,
>
> Is the lapping compound you used something like this?
>
>
> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx
>
> Regards,
> Brian
> 1980 Landfall 38
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse
>> thing as well as the low rpm banging only.
>> The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical
>> surface on each each end that mates with one mating female cone for
>> forward,  and the other mating female cone for reverse.In neutral, the
>> conical clutch sits between both and engages neither.  Forward is used a
>> lot more, therefore it glazes first.
>> As to rpm- these boats do not have thrust bearings so the prop thrust
>> pushes forward on the engine/trans and ultimately the mounts.   It does so
>> via the trans, so the thrust overcomes the slip at a certain point and the
>> banging stops.
>> Before long it will slip irrespective of rpm, and get so bad that you
>> will think the strut will be sheared off the hull.
>> Per instructions in the internet I used valve lapping compound.  Did not
>> rebuild the gearbox, only lapped the cones.  the halves use no gaskets,
>> just silicone.
>> I used a punch to mark the orientation of the cone and any other parts
>> and was very careful to clean any residual lapping compound out of the
>> transmission.
>> Worked perfectly.
>> Make sure you secure the prop shaft so it can't fall out.
>>
>>
>> Dave.
>>
>> Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 15:40:53 -0700
>> From: Andrew Means 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Boat: 1977 C&C 34
>> Engine: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
>> Prop: 3 Blade Max Prop
>>
>> Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it
>> almost feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like
>> a piece of kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400
>> or so the roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C&C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_5010582712356372377_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>



-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C&C Landfall 38
"Nina"
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Is the lapping compound you used something like this?

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx

Regards,
Brian
1980 Landfall 38



On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse
> thing as well as the low rpm banging only.
> The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical
> surface on each each end that mates with one mating female cone for
> forward,  and the other mating female cone for reverse.In neutral, the
> conical clutch sits between both and engages neither.  Forward is used a
> lot more, therefore it glazes first.
> As to rpm- these boats do not have thrust bearings so the prop thrust
> pushes forward on the engine/trans and ultimately the mounts.   It does so
> via the trans, so the thrust overcomes the slip at a certain point and the
> banging stops.
> Before long it will slip irrespective of rpm, and get so bad that you will
> think the strut will be sheared off the hull.
> Per instructions in the internet I used valve lapping compound.  Did not
> rebuild the gearbox, only lapped the cones.  the halves use no gaskets,
> just silicone.
> I used a punch to mark the orientation of the cone and any other parts and
> was very careful to clean any residual lapping compound out of the
> transmission.
> Worked perfectly.
> Make sure you secure the prop shaft so it can't fall out.
>
>
> Dave.
>
> Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 15:40:53 -0700
> From: Andrew Means 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Boat: 1977 C&C 34
> Engine: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
> Prop: 3 Blade Max Prop
>
> Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it
> almost feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like
> a piece of kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400
> or so the roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C&C Landfall 38
"Nina"


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension

[Chris via CnC-List]

Thank you Frank.



From:   Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" , 
Cc: Franklin Schenk 
Date:   05/09/2016 04:21 PM
Subject:Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension
Sent by:"CnC-List" 



I have used the following technique on many different boats without using 
a Loos gage. First, I check that the mast is straight athwartship 
(sideways) and that I have the desired rake which is different for each 
boat.  I tighten the turnbuckles on the fore and aft stays first.  I check 
the tension by pulling on them at about chest height.  The stays should 
move no more than about one inch.  The same applies to the upper shrouds. 
On boats that have only one lower, I tighten them until I can pull about 1 
1/2 inches.  On boats that have two lowers, I tighten the forward lowers 
until I can pull about 1 1/2 inches.  On the aft lowers I use about 2 
inches.

The next step is to check the tension out under sail.  First I make sure 
that the mast is straight.  This will tell me if the lower shrouds are 
correct.  There may be some slop on the downwind side depending on the 
wind speed.

Adjusting rake is another procedure depending on the weather helm of the 
boat.

Frank


On Monday, May 9, 2016 1:22 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Chris,
I do not use a Loos gage on Beemer, 29mkll, to tune my rig. My process is 
as follows.
With all stays and shrouds lose, I tension the stays so I have 
approximately 9 inches rake along the boom using a weight on the main 
halyard. Forestay first, then backstay to remove slop. I them tension the 
upper shrouds to hand tight and using the main halyard on the toe rails to 
align the masthead. I then add two turns to the turnbuckles. Check 
masthead alignment again. 
Once all aligned, I tighten the lowers hand tight. Sight the mast to 
ensure straight. Add two turns to each lower. Sight the mast. 
Time for on the water final tune. In roughly 10-12 knots of wind on beem 
reach, look at leeward shrouds for play. Removed a third of the play 
tightening the leeward turnbuckles. Count and remember the number of 
turns. Tack boat. Tighten leeward turnbuckle same Number of turns as 
previous tack. 
And I tack back and forth checking and making any final adjustments. 
You'll want the slop out of the leeward shrouds. 
Sounds like a long process but it really isn't. 
Is using s Loos gage quicker? Yes but I'm a cheap son of a gun. And even 
with a Loos gage you'll still occasional on water adjustments. 

Bob Caughran
Beemer, 29MKII, 309


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 9, 2016, at 10:44 AM, Chris via CnC-List  
wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a C&C 24 was wondering if you know how many pounds of tension are
> needed on all the lines that hold the mast in place?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Maybe the Admiral blocked them on your computer?

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: May-10-16 00:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

 

Thanks guys.

 

It’s a mystery at this point.

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4568/12201 - Release Date: 05/09/16

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