Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If it was really fouled then he probably would have noticed that it wasn't
achieving the same thrust to RPM or speed to rpm ratio.  This usually is
also accompanied by black smoke indicating too much engine load.

I have not heard any reports regarding the condition of the impeller.  I
have also not heard anything about the intake side of the heat exchanger.
I'd definitely be checking both of those.  Also the belt on the impeller
can be difficult to get tight enough to prevent slipping.

You might consider using a garden hose to lightly pressurize the raw water
system.  You could even do it by shoving the hose up the through-hull from
outside.  (you'll need the dive gear again)  Then with the boat securely
tied, load up the engine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 30, 2016 10:25 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" 
wrote:

The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher
than that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe
around the exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should
not overheat with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really
fouled?


> On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove
the boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel
followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the
water intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way
there.
>
> We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.
>
> Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher than 
that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe around the 
exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should not overheat 
with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really fouled?


> On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove the 
> boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel 
> followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the water 
> intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way there.
> 
> We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.  
> 
> Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure. 
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove the 
boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel followed 
by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the water intake to 
the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way there.

We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.  

Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure. 

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Stus-List Fwd: Questions asked by Banff Park tourists

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Here's something for everyone to think about - especially Americans on the
list who might be planning a trip to Canada.


*Dumbest Questions Asked by Banff Park Tourists** submitted by Kurt Mezger*

*1**. How do the elk know they're supposed to cross at the "Elk Crossing"
signs?*

*2. At what elevation does an elk become a moose?*

*3. Tourist: "How do you pronounce 'Elk'?" *

*Park Information Staff: " 'Elk' " Tourist: "Oh".*

*4. Are the bears with collars tame?*

*5. Is there anywhere I can see the bears pose?*

*6. Is it okay to keep an open bag of bacon on the picnic table, or should
I store it in my tent?*

*7. Where can I find Alpine Flamingos?*

*8. I saw an animal on the way to Banff today - could you tell me what it
was?*

*9. Are there birds in Canada?*

*10. Did I miss the turnoff for Canada?*

*11. Where does Alberta end and Canada begin?*

*12. Do you have a map of the State of Jasper?*

*13. Is this the part of Canada that speaks French, or is that
Saskatchewan?*

*14. If I go to B.C., do I have to go through Ontario?*

*15. Which is the way to the Columbia Ricefields?*

*16. How far is Banff from Canada?*

 *17. What's the best way to see Canada in a day?*

*18. Do they search you at the B.C. border?*

*19. When we enter B.C. do we have to convert our money to British pounds?*

*20. Where can I buy a raccoon hat? ALL Canadians own one, don't they?*

*21. Are there phones in Banff?*

*22. So it's eight kilometres away... is that in miles?*

*23. We're on the decibel system you know.*

*24. Where can I get my husband really, REALLY, lost??*

*25. Is that two kilometres by foot or by car?*

*26. Don't you Canadians know anything?*

*27. Where do you put the animals at night?*

*28. Tourist: "How do you get your lakes so blue?" *

*  Park staff: "We take the water out in the winter and paint the
bottom."  Tourist: "Oh!*
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Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

[svpegasus38]

Jason, I installed a linear Raymarine autopilot in Pegasus. Wasn't easy. I 
can send you pics when I get back to the boat this week.I glassed in a mounting 
plate between the starboard hull and cockpit just fwd and below the manual 
pump. Put the computer on the aft bulkhead of sstarboard q-bearth. Doug 
MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Jason & Amanda Ward via CnC-List Date: Sun, 
May 29, 2016 18:33To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Jason & Amanda 
Ward;Subject:Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38
 Good Day Everyone.  Now that the sailing season is upon us life is good again. 
 Life would be even better if I was able to use my autohelm.  I have purchased 
an Raymarine EV200 linear drive unit and am trying to figure out how to install 
it below deck.  As all C&C owners know there is very little room at the best of 
times and it appears that when they made the LF38, autohelm was never even a 
consideration. I was wondering if there are any other LF owners out there that 
have successfully installed a linear below deck drive that would be willing to 
pass on their installation process.  Photos would also be appreciated. Life is 
good on a boat, even when you are fixing her. Good sailing and hope to talk 
soon. JasonStarship LF38Lake Winnipeg, Manitoba 
Virus-free. www.avast.com   

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Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

[doug.welch--- via CnC-List]

When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the mast 
collar tangs so I had a friend fabricate a duplicate. Both are now misaligned 
and the holes are about 1/4 inch too high to slip the bolt in (the boat is 
fully rigged). My friends have different opinions on this.  One says release 
the rigging and the tangs will slightly deform the cabin top when we reset the 
mast. Another days remake the tangs so the bolts line up with jokes in the mast 
when it's fully rigged. Looking for help from you folks.

Cheers,Doug

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Re: Stus-List 30MkII 1988 galley thru hull size?

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

You will need a bigger hole. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Lorne Serpa 
  Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 15:56
  Subject: Stus-List 30MkII 1988 galley thru hull size?


  Good day.  I'm asking because I just purchased my boat, but it is 2,000 miles 
away.  I want to plan my install before I get there to install it.
  I'm about to order a Isotherm 2551 Compact SP water cooled refrigeration 
system in my 1988 C&C 30MkII ice box.

  It uses a kitchen sink thru hull self pumping fitting in place of the galley 
sink drain thru hull.  The instructions for thru hull installation says 

  The skin fitting is to be mounted in the hull instead of existing fitting for 
the galley sink waste water. The hole in the hull shall have a diameter of 60 
mm (2½”).


  Anyone know what the galley sink waste water thru hull diameter is?  I wonder 
if I will have to enlarge the hull?


  Thank you.




--


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Stus-List 30MkII 1988 galley thru hull size?

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Good day.  I'm asking because I just purchased my boat, but it is 2,000
miles away.  I want to plan my install before I get there to install it.
I'm about to order a Isotherm 2551 Compact SP water cooled refrigeration
system in my 1988 C&C 30MkII ice box.
It uses a kitchen sink thru hull self pumping fitting in place of the
galley sink drain thru hull.  The instructions for thru hull installation
says
The skin fitting is to be mounted in the hull instead of existing fitting
for the galley sink waste water. The hole in the hull shall have a diameter
of 60 mm (2½”).

Anyone know what the galley sink waste water thru hull diameter is?  I
wonder if I will have to enlarge the hull?

Thank you.
[image: Inline image 1]
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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

If I remember my chem correctly, 50-50 forms a constant freezing/ boiling 
azeotrope; any mix with less or more freezes at a higher temp (boils at a lower 
one) and by extension has a less effective heat transfer.RonWild CheriC&C 
30-1STL


  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
 Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 6:13 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR
   
I know that the mix should be 50/50, but what happens if it is more antifreeze 
and less water? I don,t remember reading anything about any ill effects, but 
let us know if you know of something that I don’t.  thanks MarekPerkins M20 
From: rshibe via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 2:39 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: rshibe Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR If 
your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more than 
50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad
 
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Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — I’d be curious to see how they solved the problem of “no space”…   :^)   
Email me photos, too, if you’re sending some out.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On May 30, 2016, at 3:12 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had my boatyard install mine years ago but I'd be glad to pass alongside 
> photos...
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
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Re: Stus-List Radar power wire

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — Tim’s explanation is a good one.  But given the short distances you’re 
dealing with in your setup, it really won’t make much difference.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On May 30, 2016, at 7:56 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Danny, my musings on negative vs screen:
> 
> The negative wire will have current flowing through it to power the radar 
> and, because of the voltage drop from one end to the other, will not be at 
> precisely the same potential as it exits the radar as the negative post.  The 
> screen should have very limited current (it is not part of the power circuit) 
> and therefore should be at the same potential as the negative post.  Voltage 
> drop will depend on the wire size / length and power draw of the appliance.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Tim
> Ex C&C 35-3
> 
> On May 30, 2016, at 7:38 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Thank you Fred.
>> 
>> I'll try to remember to gather all the manuals and bring then along on my 
>> next trip to the boat. 
>> 
>> So, the start battery is quite close,  directly under the helm.  Would it be 
>> beneficial to run that green/screen wire directly to the start battery 
>> negative post?  Or is that simply not necessary being that the breaker box 
>> is already so close to the same battery?  
>> 
>> I guess, according to the manual, a direct line to the start battery wild be 
>> the preferred solution.  
>> 
>> my confusion is,  If the grounding bars in the panel are already bonded,  
>> this green"screen" wire  seems redundant.  What benefit is the added green 
>> 'screen' wire if it just ties to the same ground post as the black ground 
>> wire?
>> 
>> Danny
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Re: Stus-List winches were too powerful?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We had electric Lewmar 43 for Primaries when we bought Persistence.  During the 
delivery I noted that anyone with a tendency to over sheet liked using the 
electric winches.  I quickly turned off the power to the winches before someone 
broke something.  I really did not like the electric winches.  When manually 
using were very stiff.  Servicing them was awful.  The winch had to be unbolted 
from the coaming or the motor dropped to get at all the pawls.  We had manual 
Lewmar 43 ST on coachroof.  We moved them to coaming as primary and replaced 
with Lewmar 30ST on coachroof.  Then we traded the old Lewmar 43 electric even 
for new Lemar 40 ST which we use as secondary winches.  The entire setup is 
very much better

The electrics sucked

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 5:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List winches were too powerful?

A few years back, I managed a friend's Hylas 54 with Antal electric primary 
winches (54s maybe?).  Once when the owner was on board, he didn't put enough 
wraps on the winch and fed the jib sheet into the jaws of the self tailer and 
pushed the button.  Managed to bend the line stripper down about 1" (Chrome 
over bronze I suspect) and until we replaced the stripper and rebuilt the 
winch, it wouldn't tail properly, especially with smaller line.

 Large Electric winches can harness some insane leverage and I like my fingers 
way too much to ever put them on a boat that I own..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 4:04 PM
To: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Cc: Lee Youngblood 
Subject: Stus-List winches were too powerful?

To powerful - yea well we did break one of the teeth off on a big triple speed 
winch on the Frers 41.  Not sure if it was a Lewmar or what, but the next week 
it was gone - to expensive to replace, the secondary winches moved up, and we'd 
just have to move the spinnaker to the coach house winch like on a smaller 
boat. 


On May 27, 2016, at 9:44 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well
enough and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too 
feeble. 
> I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 


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Re: Stus-List Radar power wire

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Danny, my musings on negative vs screen:

The negative wire will have current flowing through it to power the radar and, 
because of the voltage drop from one end to the other, will not be at precisely 
the same potential as it exits the radar as the negative post.  The screen 
should have very limited current (it is not part of the power circuit) and 
therefore should be at the same potential as the negative post.  Voltage drop 
will depend on the wire size / length and power draw of the appliance.

Regards,

Tim
Ex C&C 35-3

> On May 30, 2016, at 7:38 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thank you Fred.
> 
> I'll try to remember to gather all the manuals and bring then along on my 
> next trip to the boat. 
> 
> So, the start battery is quite close,  directly under the helm.  Would it be 
> beneficial to run that green/screen wire directly to the start battery 
> negative post?  Or is that simply not necessary being that the breaker box is 
> already so close to the same battery?  
> 
> I guess, according to the manual, a direct line to the start battery wild be 
> the preferred solution.  
> 
> my confusion is,  If the grounding bars in the panel are already bonded,  
> this green"screen" wire  seems redundant.  What benefit is the added green 
> 'screen' wire if it just ties to the same ground post as the black ground 
> wire?
> 
> Danny
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/29/16 7:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Radar power wire
> 
> Danny — RTFM…   :^)
> 
> Page 16 of the HD Digital Radome Scanner user’s guide:
> 
>> Grounding
>> 
>> These grounding requirements are applicable for Raymarine equipment supplied 
>> with a separate drain wire or screen.
>> 
>> • The product power cable drain conductor (screen) must be connected to a 
>> common ground point.
>> 
>> • It is recommended that the common ground point is a bonded ground, i.e. 
>> with the ground point connected to battery negative, and situated as close 
>> as possible to the battery negative terminal. If a bonded ground system is 
>> not possible, a non-bonded RF ground may be used.
> 
> So tie it with the black wire to the power source (DC breaker).
> 
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 5:15 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi guys, 
>> 
>> I need a little wiring advice.
>> 
>> There are 3 wires for the radar power. 
>> Red
>> Green
>> Black
>> 
>> Red to breaker
>> Black to ground bar
>> Green to ...?  
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Danny
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Thanks Bettina

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike,
> Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
> Bettina
> 
>> On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Bettina
>> 
>> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>> Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  Bmue via CnC-List wrote 
>> 
>> Ryan,
>> Nice job.
>> Re finishing the topside.
>> Just do it. 
>> 
>> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
>> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige 
>> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
>> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
>> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
>> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>> 
>> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
>> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
>> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
>> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
>> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
>> 
>> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
>> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
>> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
>> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
>> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
>> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
>> 
>> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
>> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have 
>> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but 
>> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
>> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
>> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
>> parts of the deck. 
>> 
>> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
>> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
>> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
>> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
>> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
>> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
>> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
>> 
>> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
>> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
>> finally came around.
>> 
>> Bettina
>> 
>> C&C 25 Savannah
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> > On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
>> > wrote:
>> > 
>> > at
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
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>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
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> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Radar power wire

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Thank you Fred.
I'll try to remember to gather all the manuals and bring then along on my next 
trip to the boat. 
So, the start battery is quite close,  directly under the helm.  Would it be 
beneficial to run that green/screen wire directly to the start battery negative 
post?  Or is that simply not necessary being that the breaker box is already so 
close to the same battery?  
I guess, according to the manual, a direct line to the start battery wild be 
the preferred solution.  
my confusion is,  If the grounding bars in the panel are already bonded,  this 
green"screen" wire  seems redundant.  What benefit is the added green 'screen' 
wire if it just ties to the same ground post as the black ground wire?
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/29/16  7:19 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Radar power wire 
Danny — RTFM…   :^)
Page 16 of the HD Digital Radome Scanner user’s guide:
Grounding

These grounding requirements are applicable for Raymarine equipment supplied 
with a separate drain wire or screen.

• The product power cable drain conductor (screen) must be connected to a 
common ground point.

• It is recommended that the common ground point is a bonded ground, i.e. with 
the ground point connected to battery negative, and situated as close as 
possible to the battery negative terminal. If a bonded ground system is not 
possible, a non-bonded RF ground may be used.
So tie it with the black wire to the power source (DC breaker).

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On May 29, 2016, at 5:15 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hi guys, 
I need a little wiring advice.
There are 3 wires for the radar power. RedGreenBlack
Red to breakerBlack to ground barGreen to ...?  
ThanksDanny
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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I know that the mix should be 50/50, but what happens if it is more antifreeze 
and less water? I don,t remember reading anything about any ill effects, but 
let us know if you know of something that I don’t. 

thanks

Marek
Perkins M20

From: rshibe via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 2:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: rshibe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

If your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more 
than 50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.
Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I had my boatyard install mine years ago but I'd be glad to pass alongside 
photos...

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On May 29, 2016, at 9:32 PM, Jason & Amanda Ward via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  
> Good Day Everyone.  Now that the sailing season is upon us life is good 
> again.  Life would be even better if I was able to use my autohelm.  I have 
> purchased an Raymarine EV200 linear drive unit and am trying to figure out 
> how to install it below deck.  As all C&C owners know there is very little 
> room at the best of times and it appears that when they made the LF38, 
> autohelm was never even a consideration.
>  
> I was wondering if there are any other LF owners out there that have 
> successfully installed a linear below deck drive that would be willing to 
> pass on their installation process.  Photos would also be appreciated.
>  
> Life is good on a boat, even when you are fixing her.
>  
> Good sailing and hope to talk soon.
>  
> Jason
> Starship LF38
> Lake Winnipeg, Manitoba
>  
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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