Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You hardly ever need 90 W; that is for charging the battery _and_ running the 
computer. Most of the time you should be fine with about 20 W (this is what I 
measured on a number of occasions when I really wanted to know), but this is 
still double what your Pi 3 draws.

If you are into that old laptops, you can easily have a Toughbook for about 
$300 (or even less). Btw. Toughbooks, at least the ones I used in the past, had 
terrible screens. If you complain about iPads in the sun, forget about the 
Toughbook. You should have a nicely dimmed room to be able to read the screen 
correctly. But they had the touch screen for decades.

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 13:30
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer


Joe,

I totally agree and understand about the cost of a screen bringing the project 
to a halt.  FYI a Raspberry Pi can be set up to be "headless" (ie: no screen).  
When you need to see the system you can use any device (cell phone, laptop, 
tablet) to remote desktop in.  My original use for the Pi was to multiplex my 
nmea 0183 signals.  This quickly grew to include receiving AIS and backing up 
the GPS input.  When the new Pi 3 came out my needs grew again to including 
running OpenCPN.  The latest price for a Raspberry Pi 3 is $35 and you can do 
all of the aforementioned activities.

The biggest reason to use a Pi over a laptop is power draw.  The Pi 3 max draw 
is 2.5A@5v=12.5w.  Thus 1amp@12v.  My laptop power supply 
is 90w.  Thus 7.5A@12v.  The laptop draws 7.5 times as much 
power to do all the same functions.  With the Pi, I can leave it running full 
time and then use a laptop/tablet/cell phone for a few moments and then leave 
it in hibernate/standby until the next time I need it.  This amounts to a 
considerable power savings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 21, 2016 12:01 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
2 year old! HA!
My boat laptop is from 1999 – an IBM Thinkpad 600E. It has a wonderful sharp 
display and can run on straight 12 volt input. I do have the car adapter that 
feeds it 16 volts or so to keep the battery up, but I can do without it. It 
does nothing else but run OpenCPN. It has W98SE on it and NOTHING else but 
OpenCPN. It never ever connects to the internet, plays games, or anything else. 
This has proven to be very reliable for years now.
Every time I look at a Raspberry PI or Mini-ITX box or anything else not a 
laptop, the expense of a decent screen brings the project to a halt. It just 
doesn’t make sense with so many laptops around for cheap. This is my happy 
hunting ground for cheap laptops, www.pcretro.com. $250 
or so is more than enough budget for a boat PC unless you want to find a 
Panasonic Toughbook, which would likely be more.
I did manage to score a 2016 CMAP cartridge for the East Coast for $90 on 
Fleabay, so I am going to get my Standard-Horizon 180 plotter set up at the 
helm. My biggest complaints about PC navigation are the power consumed and not 
having it at the helm. Hopefully I’ll get waypoints transferring correctly so I 
can lay out my course on the PC and send it up to the SH plotter.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

We tried Goo Gone and contact cement solvent, and a few other things, the only 
thing that worked was a product called Goof Off, bought at Canadian Tire. 
Dampen a rag with it and hold it in place on the glue, it's takes a few minutes 
to soften the original glue. Wear nitrile gloves and make very sure you have 
good ventilation. And be patient.
Brad
"Pulse"1985 C 33-2
Lake Huron
___

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Re: Stus-List auto pilot

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

Larry, you should contact Fred Street of this List; he has access to the parts 
and equipment needed and knows what will work and what to stay away fromand 
he has a C I sail on a river and use my auto pilot very much like you 
described;  I was/am very happy with his recommendations.
 

 


Richard
S/V Bushmark4 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Larry via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Larry 
Sent: Mon, Nov 21, 2016 6:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List auto pilot



My st4000 plus auto pilot went belly up. Everything is working except for the 
controller. When I switch to Auto I get the common low battery error and no 
data received. I have done a complete job of troubleshooting and it is the 
control unit/display. Raymarine no longer service this unit. I located one 
place in Florida that works on them, but I don’t want to go that uncertain 
route. I am going to remove and replace with another unit. I just sail the 
Puget Sound and never get into the blue water. I only use the Autopilot to 
single or short handle my boat. Mainly raising and lowering sails or taking a 
head break when I single handle it. I never use it in rough water. My boat 
weighs in around 14,500 lbs. I am contemplating the ev-100 spx-5. Anyone have 
any suggestions. I want to keep in simple. My wheel unit and compass work fine.

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

My strut was not in line with the shaft tube, and the shaft was radially
warped, so I had to drop it and realign it with a new shaft. I have photos.
Basically chipped the old bodge away with wood chisels. The strut was never
bedded in compound, it was clean gelcoat under the strut. We buttered the
mounting surface of the strut with thickened epoxy and hung it on the
mounting bolts in the right alignment with the shaft in place. Next day we
tightened the bolts and I faired in the strut.
It sounds so simple and easy now, but it took two weeks, getting the rudder
off and making new parts...argh.

http://members.shaw.ca/parmesanshift/images/newshaft2.jpg

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 21 November 2016 at 14:43, Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I did the samething to Pegasus. Pulled the strut, cleaned the hull,
> rebedded using 5200 I think, reinstalled using new hardware, doubled up
> fender washers and double nutted the bolts. No leaks or loose bolts 4 years
> later.
> Doug Mountjoy
> Pegasus
> LF38 #4
>
>
> On Monday, November 21, 2016, Tom Alessi via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hey,
>> Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and a
>> loose prop strut when the boat was hauled.
>> Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.
>> Thx
>>
>> Tom Alessi
>> C 36
>> Rockaway Beach, NY
>>
>
>
> --
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Pegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List auto pilot

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

And btw, there’s a $100.00 rebate on these systems if purchased before December 
5th (US and Canada only).

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 21, 2016, at 6:30 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Larry — in order to use your existing drive, you’ll need to either purchase a 
> used or old stock SPX course computer and associated control head (someplace 
> like eBay); or piece together a system using the newer ACU-100 course 
> computer (list $399.99), p70 control head ($534.99 list) and EV-1 heading 
> sensor ($599.99 list), plus associated SeaTalkNG cabling, for a total of over 
> $1550.00.  For $1599.99 list, you can get the complete system WITH a new 
> wheel drive.  I’d suggest you seriously consider that option.
> 
> As with all members of the C list, you can take advantage of the fact that 
> I used to sell and install marine electronics and I’ve kept my vendor 
> relationships, so I can source items for you at near-dealer cost.  Contact me 
> off-list and let me know if you’d like me to price anything for you.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Nov 21, 2016, at 5:24 PM, Larry via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> My st4000 plus auto pilot went belly up. Everything is working except for 
>> the controller. When I switch to Auto I get the common low battery error and 
>> no data received. I have done a complete job of troubleshooting and it is 
>> the control unit/display. Raymarine no longer service this unit. I located 
>> one place in Florida that works on them, but I don’t want to go that 
>> uncertain route. I am going to remove and replace with another unit. I just 
>> sail the Puget Sound and never get into the blue water. I only use the 
>> Autopilot to single or short handle my boat. Mainly raising and lowering 
>> sails or taking a head break when I single handle it. I never use it in 
>> rough water. My boat weighs in around 14,500 lbs. I am contemplating the 
>> ev-100 spx-5. Anyone have any suggestions. I want to keep in simple. My 
>> wheel unit and compass work fine.

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List auto pilot

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Larry — in order to use your existing drive, you’ll need to either purchase a 
used or old stock SPX course computer and associated control head (someplace 
like eBay); or piece together a system using the newer ACU-100 course computer 
(list $399.99), p70 control head ($534.99 list) and EV-1 heading sensor 
($599.99 list), plus associated SeaTalkNG cabling, for a total of over 
$1550.00.  For $1599.99 list, you can get the complete system WITH a new wheel 
drive.  I’d suggest you seriously consider that option.

As with all members of the C list, you can take advantage of the fact that I 
used to sell and install marine electronics and I’ve kept my vendor 
relationships, so I can source items for you at near-dealer cost.  Contact me 
off-list and let me know if you’d like me to price anything for you.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 21, 2016, at 5:24 PM, Larry via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> My st4000 plus auto pilot went belly up. Everything is working except for the 
> controller. When I switch to Auto I get the common low battery error and no 
> data received. I have done a complete job of troubleshooting and it is the 
> control unit/display. Raymarine no longer service this unit. I located one 
> place in Florida that works on them, but I don’t want to go that uncertain 
> route. I am going to remove and replace with another unit. I just sail the 
> Puget Sound and never get into the blue water. I only use the Autopilot to 
> single or short handle my boat. Mainly raising and lowering sails or taking a 
> head break when I single handle it. I never use it in rough water. My boat 
> weighs in around 14,500 lbs. I am contemplating the ev-100 spx-5. Anyone have 
> any suggestions. I want to keep in simple. My wheel unit and compass work 
> fine.

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List auto pilot

[Larry via CnC-List]

My st4000 plus auto pilot went belly up. Everything is working except for
the controller. When I switch to Auto I get the common low battery error and
no data received. I have done a complete job of troubleshooting and it is
the control unit/display. Raymarine no longer service this unit. I located
one place in Florida that works on them, but I don't want to go that
uncertain route. I am going to remove and replace with another unit. I just
sail the Puget Sound and never get into the blue water. I only use the
Autopilot to single or short handle my boat. Mainly raising and lowering
sails or taking a head break when I single handle it. I never use it in
rough water. My boat weighs in around 14,500 lbs. I am contemplating the
ev-100 spx-5. Anyone have any suggestions. I want to keep in simple. My
wheel unit and compass work fine.

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I did the samething to Pegasus. Pulled the strut, cleaned the hull,
rebedded using 5200 I think, reinstalled using new hardware, doubled up
fender washers and double nutted the bolts. No leaks or loose bolts 4 years
later.
Doug Mountjoy
Pegasus
LF38 #4

On Monday, November 21, 2016, Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> Hey,
> Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and a
> loose prop strut when the boat was hauled.
> Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.
> Thx
>
> Tom Alessi
> C 36
> Rockaway Beach, NY
>


-- 
Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA
___

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Re: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle sensor they would be willing to part with?

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Ok, but just in case the AIRMAR number is 31-277-9-71, REV 4, and the customer 
part (perhaps B) is 650-AA-110/SEN-SPEED-N.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of 
doug.welch--- via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 4:07 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle 
sensor they would be willing to part with?


  Thanks for your generous offer. I think your sensor is from the hornet series 
(1.55 inch diameter) and i have the network series (1.2 inch diameter).


  Cheers,
  Doug
  Celtic Knot
  85 33-2 cb


  Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android


On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 11:04 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List
 wrote:
Doug,
I have an old speed paddle for early B speed instrument. It was installed 
on a 1985 C III. I don't know when it was installed on the boat. Its a (4) 
paddle unit. Needs a bore size or 1.55". It has 7 wires, white, brown ,red, 
green, black, yellow, gray. You can have it for shipping cost.


Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Doug 
Welch via CnC-List
  Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 4:09 PM
  To: C List
  Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
  Subject: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle 
sensor they would be willing to part with?


  Mine broke in 2? Don't ask me how. It went in in 1 piece and came out in 
2. Anyways B wants $500 for a replacement and I can't see myself spending 
that much for sensor replacement. If I can't find one at a reasonable price, I 
will seek permission from the admiral to replace my wind, depth and speed. I do 
like the current B and G series (Triton?) but would appreciate any input on the 
best bang for the buck.


  If you do have a sensor, please let me know how much you want for it.


  Cheers,
  Doug


  Celtic Knot
  85 33-2 cb ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I had a bent strut a few years ago.  Removed it, had machine shop
straighten it and re-installed it.  straightforward job on my 35-1.  Did
require removing the fuel tank for access to the fastener nuts.  Helps to
have a buddy but if it is similar to mine, I just clamped Vise-Grips on the
nuts and works from underneath.

Re-bedded it with 4M 4200 and faired the gap with AwlFair.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 2:57 PM, Tom Alessi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hey,
> Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and a
> loose prop strut when the boat was hauled.
> Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.
> Thx
>
> Tom Alessi
> C 36
> Rockaway Beach, NY
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle sensor they would be willing to part with?

[doug.welch--- via CnC-List]

Thanks for your generous offer. I think your sensor is from the hornet series 
(1.55 inch diameter) and i have the network series (1.2 inch diameter).
Cheers,DougCeltic Knot85 33-2 cb

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 11:04 AM, Doug Allardyce via 
CnC-List wrote:   Doug,I have an old speed paddle for 
early B speed instrument. It was installed on a 1985 C III. I don't know 
when it was installed on the boat. Its a (4) paddle unit. Needs a bore size or 
1.55". It has 7 wires, white, brown ,red, green, black, yellow, gray. You can 
have it for shipping cost.  
Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/) 

 -Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 4:09 PM
To: C List
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle sensor 
they would be willing to part with?

  Mine broke in 2? Don't ask me how. It went in in 1 piece and came out in 2. 
Anyways B wants $500 for a replacement and I can't see myself spending that 
much for sensor replacement. If I can't find one at a reasonable price, I will 
seek permission from the  admiral to replace my wind, depth and speed. I do 
like the current B and G series (Triton?) but would appreciate any input on the 
best bang for the buck. 
 If you do have a sensor, please let me know how much you want for it. 
 Cheers, Doug 
 Celtic Knot 85 33-2 cb 
  
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Tom Alessi via CnC-List]

Hey,
Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and a loose 
prop strut when the boat was hauled.
Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.
Thx

Tom Alessi
C 36
Rockaway Beach, NY
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List 29-2 outhaul.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Changed the wire outhaul to line. Also put new 3/8th for the line within and 
coming from the mast but the friction is still very strong. Is 3/8th normal or 
should I go smaller again? Purchase is still 4 to one. Outhaul comes in easily 
but is difficult to ease.___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

That sounds very cool. My old IBM draws about 3.8-4 amps running. The S-H 
plotter only draws 0.5 amps or less.  May yet get into the Raspberry Pi if I 
come up with a good display idea.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 13:30
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer


Joe,

I totally agree and understand about the cost of a screen bringing the project 
to a halt.  FYI a Raspberry Pi can be set up to be "headless" (ie: no screen).  
When you need to see the system you can use any device (cell phone, laptop, 
tablet) to remote desktop in.  My original use for the Pi was to multiplex my 
nmea 0183 signals.  This quickly grew to include receiving AIS and backing up 
the GPS input.  When the new Pi 3 came out my needs grew again to including 
running OpenCPN.  The latest price for a Raspberry Pi 3 is $35 and you can do 
all of the aforementioned activities.

The biggest reason to use a Pi over a laptop is power draw.  The Pi 3 max draw 
is 2.5A@5v=12.5w.  Thus 1amp@12v.  My laptop power supply 
is 90w.  Thus 7.5A@12v.  The laptop draws 7.5 times as much 
power to do all the same functions.  With the Pi, I can leave it running full 
time and then use a laptop/tablet/cell phone for a few moments and then leave 
it in hibernate/standby until the next time I need it.  This amounts to a 
considerable power savings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 21, 2016 12:01 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
2 year old! HA!
My boat laptop is from 1999 – an IBM Thinkpad 600E. It has a wonderful sharp 
display and can run on straight 12 volt input. I do have the car adapter that 
feeds it 16 volts or so to keep the battery up, but I can do without it. It 
does nothing else but run OpenCPN. It has W98SE on it and NOTHING else but 
OpenCPN. It never ever connects to the internet, plays games, or anything else. 
This has proven to be very reliable for years now.
Every time I look at a Raspberry PI or Mini-ITX box or anything else not a 
laptop, the expense of a decent screen brings the project to a halt. It just 
doesn’t make sense with so many laptops around for cheap. This is my happy 
hunting ground for cheap laptops, www.pcretro.com. $250 
or so is more than enough budget for a boat PC unless you want to find a 
Panasonic Toughbook, which would likely be more.
I did manage to score a 2016 CMAP cartridge for the East Coast for $90 on 
Fleabay, so I am going to get my Standard-Horizon 180 plotter set up at the 
helm. My biggest complaints about PC navigation are the power consumed and not 
having it at the helm. Hopefully I’ll get waypoints transferring correctly so I 
can lay out my course on the PC and send it up to the SH plotter.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 17:27
To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>
Cc: Marek Dziedzic >
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

Josh,
Agreed. Not to mention that for most of us, the computing power of a 2-year old 
laptop is more than enough, especially, if you plan to use it with a limited 
set of applications. E.g. my weather station runs on an 8-year old laptop and 
is doing quite fine.

Marek
In Ottawa ON


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: November 20, 2016 12:36
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer


Marek,

Yeah I was kinda misleading in my native 12v statement.  What I meant was that 
12v power supplies are often available.  12v cigarette lighter adapters that 
put out 19v for laptops.

Interestingly though, I did notice today on my laptop that the battery is 
putting out 12v.  It takes 19v from the wall adapter but only 12v from the 
battery.  I feel a jerry rig in the future

And you're entirely right about the cheapness of a laptop that is a year or two 
old.  I've been picking up these dell rigs (latitude d830) that come used from 
businesses for ~$100.  I've had them for about a year and a half and today just 
realized that the bios date is 2013!  They are really very new (newer when I 
got them) in the grand scheme of things, but old as far as technology goes.  I 
can trash a ~$100 laptop every 5 to 10 years.  We're so close to the point of 
diminishing returns in terms of what most of us do on a day to day basis.

Josh

On Nov 20, 2016 12:03 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 

Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Joe,

I totally agree and understand about the cost of a screen bringing the
project to a halt.  FYI a Raspberry Pi can be set up to be "headless" (ie:
no screen).  When you need to see the system you can use any device (cell
phone, laptop, tablet) to remote desktop in.  My original use for the Pi
was to multiplex my nmea 0183 signals.  This quickly grew to include
receiving AIS and backing up the GPS input.  When the new Pi 3 came out my
needs grew again to including running OpenCPN.  The latest price for a
Raspberry Pi 3 is $35 and you can do all of the aforementioned activities.

The biggest reason to use a Pi over a laptop is power draw.  The Pi 3 max
draw is 2.5A@5v=12.5w.  Thus 1amp@12v.  My laptop power supply is 90w.
Thus 7.5A@12v.  The laptop draws 7.5 times as much power to do all the same
functions.  With the Pi, I can leave it running full time and then use a
laptop/tablet/cell phone for a few moments and then leave it in
hibernate/standby until the next time I need it.  This amounts to a
considerable power savings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 21, 2016 12:01 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> 2 year old! HA!
>
> My boat laptop is from 1999 – an IBM Thinkpad 600E. It has a wonderful
> sharp display and can run on straight 12 volt input. I do have the car
> adapter that feeds it 16 volts or so to keep the battery up, but I can do
> without it. It does nothing else but run OpenCPN. It has W98SE on it and
> NOTHING else but OpenCPN. It never ever connects to the internet, plays
> games, or anything else. This has proven to be very reliable for years now.
>
> Every time I look at a Raspberry PI or Mini-ITX box or anything else not a
> laptop, the expense of a decent screen brings the project to a halt. It
> just doesn’t make sense with so many laptops around for cheap. This is my
> happy hunting ground for cheap laptops, www.pcretro.com. $250 or so is
> more than enough budget for a boat PC unless you want to find a Panasonic
> Toughbook, which would likely be more.
>
> I did manage to score a 2016 CMAP cartridge for the East Coast for $90 on
> Fleabay, so I am going to get my Standard-Horizon 180 plotter set up at the
> helm. My biggest complaints about PC navigation are the power consumed and
> not having it at the helm. Hopefully I’ll get waypoints transferring
> correctly so I can lay out my course on the PC and send it up to the SH
> plotter.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Marek
> Dziedzic via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 20, 2016 17:27
> *To:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer
>
>
>
> Josh,
>
> Agreed. Not to mention that for most of us, the computing power of a
> 2-year old laptop is more than enough, especially, if you plan to use it
> with a limited set of applications. E.g. my weather station runs on an
> 8-year old laptop and is doing quite fine.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> In Ottawa ON
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *November 20, 2016 12:36
> *To: *C List 
> *Cc: *Josh Muckley 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer
>
>
>
> Marek,
>
> Yeah I was kinda misleading in my native 12v statement.  What I meant was
> that 12v power supplies are often available.  12v cigarette lighter
> adapters that put out 19v for laptops.
>
> Interestingly though, I did notice today on my laptop that the battery is
> putting out 12v.  It takes 19v from the wall adapter but only 12v from the
> battery.  I feel a jerry rig in the future
>
> And you're entirely right about the cheapness of a laptop that is a year
> or two old.  I've been picking up these dell rigs (latitude d830) that come
> used from businesses for ~$100.  I've had them for about a year and a half
> and today just realized that the bios date is 2013!  They are really very
> new (newer when I got them) in the grand scheme of things, but old as far
> as technology goes.  I can trash a ~$100 laptop every 5 to 10 years.  We're
> so close to the point of diminishing returns in terms of what most of us do
> on a day to day basis.
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Nov 20, 2016 12:03 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Not all laptops are inherently 12 V (some use as high as 19 V). But it is
> easy to check.
>
>
>
> Laptops have an extra advantage - they get obsoleted pretty quickly, so
> you can get a pretty decent used one for around $250. And you get all the
> internal power protection you need.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 20, 2016 11:53
> *To:* C List 

Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

2 year old! HA!
My boat laptop is from 1999 - an IBM Thinkpad 600E. It has a wonderful sharp 
display and can run on straight 12 volt input. I do have the car adapter that 
feeds it 16 volts or so to keep the battery up, but I can do without it. It 
does nothing else but run OpenCPN. It has W98SE on it and NOTHING else but 
OpenCPN. It never ever connects to the internet, plays games, or anything else. 
This has proven to be very reliable for years now.
Every time I look at a Raspberry PI or Mini-ITX box or anything else not a 
laptop, the expense of a decent screen brings the project to a halt. It just 
doesn't make sense with so many laptops around for cheap. This is my happy 
hunting ground for cheap laptops, www.pcretro.com. $250 
or so is more than enough budget for a boat PC unless you want to find a 
Panasonic Toughbook, which would likely be more.
I did manage to score a 2016 CMAP cartridge for the East Coast for $90 on 
Fleabay, so I am going to get my Standard-Horizon 180 plotter set up at the 
helm. My biggest complaints about PC navigation are the power consumed and not 
having it at the helm. Hopefully I'll get waypoints transferring correctly so I 
can lay out my course on the PC and send it up to the SH plotter.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 17:27
To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

Josh,
Agreed. Not to mention that for most of us, the computing power of a 2-year old 
laptop is more than enough, especially, if you plan to use it with a limited 
set of applications. E.g. my weather station runs on an 8-year old laptop and 
is doing quite fine.

Marek
In Ottawa ON


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: November 20, 2016 12:36
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer


Marek,

Yeah I was kinda misleading in my native 12v statement.  What I meant was that 
12v power supplies are often available.  12v cigarette lighter adapters that 
put out 19v for laptops.

Interestingly though, I did notice today on my laptop that the battery is 
putting out 12v.  It takes 19v from the wall adapter but only 12v from the 
battery.  I feel a jerry rig in the future

And you're entirely right about the cheapness of a laptop that is a year or two 
old.  I've been picking up these dell rigs (latitude d830) that come used from 
businesses for ~$100.  I've had them for about a year and a half and today just 
realized that the bios date is 2013!  They are really very new (newer when I 
got them) in the grand scheme of things, but old as far as technology goes.  I 
can trash a ~$100 laptop every 5 to 10 years.  We're so close to the point of 
diminishing returns in terms of what most of us do on a day to day basis.

Josh

On Nov 20, 2016 12:03 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Not all laptops are inherently 12 V (some use as high as 19 V). But it is easy 
to check.

Laptops have an extra advantage - they get obsoleted pretty quickly, so you can 
get a pretty decent used one for around $250. And you get all the internal 
power protection you need.

Marek

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 11:53
To: C List >
Cc: Josh Muckley >
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop compter


You mentioned USB powered, so is the Raspberry PI.  In fact that was one of my 
biggest concerns.  The stability of a usb connector from a 12v boat supply just 
started feeling really unreliable.  I overcame it with a UPS addon "HAT" for 
the PI.  That is one nice thing about a laptop or even a tablet device.  They 
don't shutdown just because of a sketchy power connection and they will auto 
shutdown if the battery gets too low.

They're portable and have a considerable screen built right in.  They are also 
natively designed for 12v power supplies.

I guess that's why Rasberry PI fits my needs so well.  It is a cheap device 
that I can afford to ADD permanently to the boat and sustain depreciation and 
obsolescence without flinching.  The user interface can be ANY of my other 
personal devices and doesn't have to be permanently tied to the boat or 
regulatory transported to and from.

Just my 2 cents,
Josh


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Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Ack, I forgot to change the email subject from the digest. Sorry! Retitling
so this mistake is not perpetuated.

-- Original mail: --
Thanks Rick. I did read your email (to this thread), and one from Apr 10
2014. I think that's it unless I missed one.

A wire conversion has only two tricky parts to it - the mast fittings, and
the spreader tips. So I'm trying to figure out more details about those.
There are a few things not clear to me about your wire rerig:
- What changes were made with your mast fittings (navtangs), if any? It
sounds like you got Navtec stemball fittings swaged onto the wire and
reused the old navtangs. Do you have K150's or K200's, and do you know if
the tie bar was inspected?
- How does the spreader tip connection need to change for wire?  The 38 Mk
2 rig might be a little different, but my upper main shroud is continuous
at the upper spreader. Does wire necessitate any changes there?  The lower
spreader tip is also a little tricky (because it has three wire
terminations in it).

I do agree nitrionic 50 rod is a marvelous engineering feat, but there are
appealing aspects to Dyform too (including that there are many more places
that can swage wire). The interesting thing is navtec's site says Dyform,
at the thickness giving comparable strength to -10 rod, has nearly the same
low stretch as rod. Dyform at 1 lbs is 0.00085 stretch while rod -10 is
0.00083. I'm going to ask a couple riggers about that.

http://www.navtecriggingsolutions.com/rigging.html

-Patrick
1984 C LF38

On Sat, Nov 19, 2016 at 5:20 PM,  wrote:

> From: Rick Brass 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2016 20:19:58 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>
> If you go back a few weeks on the list you will find a lengthy post from
> me telling about my experience replacing all the #10 rod on my 38 mk2 with
> Dyform wire.
>
>
>
> The wire has a little bit higher tensile strength than the rod. It is
> slightly – like a few thousandths – larger in diameter than the rod, so has
> a bit more windage. And the all up cost for replacement was just about what
> I was quoted for having Navtec evaluate the old rod.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Paragon SAOV and Walters V-drive manuals

[Frank via CnC-List]

Paul,

Could you please send me a copy of subject line manuals?
My 38LF is now 38 years old and I foresee having some use for this information. 
Thank you,

Frank Noragon
C 38LF, S/N: 001
Rose City YC
Portland, Oregon

From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2016 7:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dreuge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Paragon SAOV and Walters V-drive manuals

Fred,


I’ll send them to you off line.


Paul

 ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 130, Issue 94

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick. I did read your email (to this thread), and one from Apr 10
2014. I think that's it unless I missed one.

A wire conversion has only two tricky parts to it - the mast fittings, and
the spreader tips. So I'm trying to figure out more details about those.
There are a few things not clear to me about your wire rerig:
- What changes were made with your mast fittings (navtangs), if any? It
sounds like you got Navtec stemball fittings swaged onto the wire and
reused the old navtangs. Do you have K150's or K200's, and do you know if
the tie bar was inspected?
- How does the spreader tip connection need to change for wire?  The 38 Mk
2 rig might be a little different, but my upper main shroud is continuous
at the upper spreader. Does wire necessitate any changes there?  The lower
spreader tip is also a little tricky (because it has three wire
terminations in it).

I do agree nitrionic 50 rod is a marvelous engineering feat, but there are
appealing aspects to Dyform too (including that there are many more places
that can swage wire). The interesting thing is navtec's site says Dyform,
at the thickness giving comparable strength to -10 rod, has nearly the same
low stretch as rod. Dyform at 1 lbs is 0.00085 stretch while rod -10 is
0.00083. I'm going to ask a couple riggers about that.

http://www.navtecriggingsolutions.com/rigging.html

On Sat, Nov 19, 2016 at 5:20 PM,  wrote:

> From: Rick Brass 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2016 20:19:58 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>
> If you go back a few weeks on the list you will find a lengthy post from
> me telling about my experience replacing all the #10 rod on my 38 mk2 with
> Dyform wire.
>
>
>
> The wire has a little bit higher tensile strength than the rod. It is
> slightly – like a few thousandths – larger in diameter than the rod, so has
> a bit more windage. And the all up cost for replacement was just about what
> I was quoted for having Navtec evaluate the old rod.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle sensor they would be willing to part with?

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Doug,
I have an old speed paddle for early B speed instrument. It was installed on 
a 1985 C III. I don't know when it was installed on the boat. Its a (4) 
paddle unit. Needs a bore size or 1.55". It has 7 wires, white, brown ,red, 
green, black, yellow, gray. You can have it for shipping cost.


Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 4:09 PM
  To: C List
  Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
  Subject: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle 
sensor they would be willing to part with?


  Mine broke in 2? Don't ask me how. It went in in 1 piece and came out in 2. 
Anyways B wants $500 for a replacement and I can't see myself spending that 
much for sensor replacement. If I can't find one at a reasonable price, I will 
seek permission from the admiral to replace my wind, depth and speed. I do like 
the current B and G series (Triton?) but would appreciate any input on the best 
bang for the buck.


  If you do have a sensor, please let me know how much you want for it.


  Cheers,
  Doug


  Celtic Knot
  85 33-2 cb ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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