Stus-List Bermuda and the Americas Cup races

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

Hi all, have not been on post for awhile. Sailed to Bermuda to meet an online 
date, that's another story, the man keeps his Gulfstar ketch on mooring in 
Cotuit MA. and since home, I've been relishing  the benefits of a better 
sailing boat where I can make decisions (even if my C&C is only 33'). If it 
weren't for my input, we would have landed in Montauk coming back. Great trip 
tho. Bermuda has changed very little in the 20 years since my last sail there. 
The popular spots are more touristy but still plenty of off track good watering 
holes. Saw a pilot whale coming back, very close to the boat. Crown jewel of 
the trip. The races were good, very exciting to be so close to Oracle and that 
other boat. Tried to find Rick Brass, who I saw from the passage list was 
going, but the captain and crew were not very socialable and that's an 
understatement. New Englanders, I was told, have a far different attitude. They 
threw trash into the ocean. 😔. Even tho I won't be seeing them again, I'm glad 
I went and now I know and it only took 3 weeks!  Americas Cup was a bucket list 
✅. All is good down here in the south land, and the daily subtropical rain 
pattern should be letting up on a few weeks. That's all for now. As you were!  
😊💪Haha!  Barbara Hickson "Flight Risk" 33-1Charleston SC


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Sunday, July 30, 2017, 5:43 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws NOW feckless
      meanderings (Ronald B. Frerker)
  2.  Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery (Chris Hobson)
  3.  feckless meanderings - Dylan (G Collins)
  4. Re:  Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery (RANDY)
  5. Re:  feckless meanderings - Dylan (Jerome Tauber)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2017 16:46:56 + (UTC)
From: "Ronald B. Frerker" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws NOW
    feckless meanderings
Message-ID: <834466608.2554094.1501433216...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

"I am younger than that now."
Must be a Dylan fan.Does he have any songs about sailboats? ?Anything we can 
adapt to old C&Cs?Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing. 
?Winds at 20 with gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a 
great choice, although tacking took a while. ?Once through the tack, the wind 
just kept blowing the bow down. ?Had to gain speed and nurse it back to 
windward. ?Downwind was a blast!RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
      From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws
  
Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touch? today to see 1/4 
inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)
Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that now.?
Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:



#yiv3482658130 #yiv3482658130 -- _filtered #yiv3482658130 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3482658130 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3482658130 {font-family:Papyrus;panose-1:3 7 5 2 6 5 2 3 
2 5;} _filtered #yiv3482658130 {panose-1:3 2 4 2 4 6 7 4 6 5;}#yiv3482658130 
#yiv3482658130 p.yiv3482658130MsoNormal, #yiv3482658130 
li.yiv3482658130MsoNormal, #yiv3482658130 div.yiv3482658130MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv3482658130 a:link, 
#yiv3482658130 span.yiv3482658130MsoHyperlink 
{color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3482658130 a:visited, 
#yiv3482658130 span.yiv3482658130MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3482658130 
span.yiv3482658130EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv3482658130 
.yiv3482658130MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv3482658130 
{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv3482658130 div.yiv3482658130WordSection1 
{}#yiv3482658130 One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the 
attachment to both the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send 
them the profile of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates 
attached to the mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my 25 
about half of the boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the fasteners 
connecting the plate to the spar are under primarily shear loading, not 
tensile. ?For this 

Stus-List Plastic Welding Water Tank

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+.  The starboard water tank is leaking through a crack 
in an upper corner of the tank.  The P.O. tried to seal the crack with a 
combination of silicone sealer reinforced with a piece of fiberglass cloth.  
Obviously, that repair didn't hold.  Thankfully, the tank was very easy to 
remove!

I understand that welding plastic is pretty easy, and I've looked a video or 
two, most of which show a tool that blows hot air, though a cheap version at 
Harbor Freight looks more like a soldering kit, though I'm not sure its the 
correct tool for the type of plastic used in making the water tanks.
So, a couple quick questions:
1).  What type of plastic are the tanks made of?2).  What is the correct tool 
for welding them?

Any hints or tips of course would be greatly appreciated!   Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Stus-List Atomic 4 (or other 2" foot alternator mount engine) Balmar upgrade for cheap

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10322

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Plastic Welding Water Tank

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

The tanks were built by Kracor Inc. and are made of Linear Polyethylene.

https://www.kracor.com/pages/marinecatalog.html





*5625 West Clinton AvenueMilwaukee, Wisconsin 53223(414) 355-6335Fax (414)
355-8782E-Mail i...@kracor.com *

I don't have any information about plastic welding, sorry.

I can tell you TAP Poly-Weld Adhesive will stick to the tanks if you follow
the instructions precisely, especial the part about flame pre-treating the
repair area on the tank with a propane torch first.  Watch the video.  This
is useful for the access ports if they start to leak.  It probably won't
help you with a crack though.

Product: https://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/
adhesives_glues_sealants/tap_poly_weld_adhesive/435

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-9yhanz5DE

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia


On 31 July 2017 at 10:16, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+.  The starboard water tank is leaking through a
> crack in an upper corner of the tank.  The P.O. tried to seal the crack
> with a combination of silicone sealer reinforced with a piece of fiberglass
> cloth.  Obviously, that repair didn't hold.  Thankfully, the tank was very
> easy to remove!
>
> I understand that welding plastic is pretty easy, and I've looked a video
> or two, most of which show a tool that blows hot air, though a cheap
> version at Harbor Freight looks more like a soldering kit, though I'm not
> sure its the correct tool for the type of plastic used in making the water
> tanks.
>
> So, a couple quick questions:
>
> 1).  What type of plastic are the tanks made of?
> 2).  What is the correct tool for welding them?
>
> Any hints or tips of course would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chris,

 

Josh is right on the money!  You want to make sure both supplies are protected. 
 My boat has a fuse between the pump and the battery for the automatic ‘always 
on’ and a circuit breaker for manual.  As part of my ritual when leaving the 
boat, I’ll lift the float switch to make sure it is clear and functions 
properly. 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 6:29 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

 

Consider wiring so that there are 2 "power supplys".  The float switch can 
start the pump directly from the battery and the manual switch can start it 
from the normal switch board supply.  This way the auto float switch will 
always work. 

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Jul 30, 2017 1:24 PM, "Chris Hobson via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install a 
switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
consequences of electricity.

Chris Hobson
s/v Going
1980 C&C 30 MK1
Hull #615
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___

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda and the --> cruise idea

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Barbara,

Sounds like Bermuda was worth the trip after all 
with some items of experience to reinforce what you already believe eh.


The info below came from Doug to the list a few 
days ago in the 35 mk-III discussion.


I think a Landfill 38  would make a good 
cruising boat. Unfortunately it appears there is no "trading" option. :)


Doug Mountjoy,  POYC,  Pegasus, Lf38, Significant Other, LF39:
I have my 1979 Landfall 38 for sale, if your 
interested. I moved up to the landfall 39. At 
least I think it was a move up. :-)

Being a 2 boat owner...
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?&units=Feet&id=3098253&lang=en&slim=broker&&hosturl=westyachts&&ywo=westyachts&;


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:32 AM 31/07/2017, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_2997377_1457545310.1501504341714"
Content-Length: 49986

Hi all, have not been on post for awhile. Sailed 
to Bermuda to meet an online date, that's 
another story, the man keeps his Gulfstar ketch 
on mooring in Cotuit MA. and since home, I've 
been relishing  the benefits of a better sailing 
boat where I can make decisions (even if my C&C 
is only 33'). If it weren't for my input, we 
would have landed in Montauk coming back. Great 
trip tho. Bermuda has changed very little in the 
20 years since my last sail there. The popular 
spots are more touristy but still plenty of off 
track good watering holes. Saw a pilot whale 
coming back, very close to the boat. Crown jewel 
of the trip. The races were good, very exciting 
to be so close to Oracle and that other boat. 
Tried to find Rick Brass, who I saw from the 
passage list was going, but the captain and crew 
were not very socialable and that's an 
understatement. New Englanders, I was told, have 
a far different attitude. They threw trash into 
the ocean. 😔. Even tho I won't be seeing them 
again, I'm glad I went and now I know and it 
only took 3 weeks!  Americas Cup was a bucket list ✅.
All is good down here in the south land, and the 
daily subtropical rain pattern should be letting up on a few weeks.

That's all for now. As you were!  😊💪
Haha!
Barbara Hickson
"Flight Risk" 33-1
Charleston SC


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Sunday, July 30, 2017, 5:43 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws NOW feckless
  meanderings (Ronald B. Frerker)
  2.  Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery (Chris Hobson)
  3.  feckless meanderings - Dylan (G Collins)
  4. Re:  Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery (RANDY)
  5. Re:  feckless meanderings - Dylan (Jerome Tauber)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2017 16:46:56 + (UTC)
From: "Ronald B. Frerker" <rbfrer...@yahoo.com>
To: 
"cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws NOW
feckless meanderings
Message-ID: 
<834466608.2554094.1501433216...@mail.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

"I am younger than that now."
Must be a Dylan fan.Does he have any songs about 
sailboats? ?Anything we can adapt to old 
C&Cs?Finally had a day under 90 F friday and 
went out sailing. ?Winds at 20 with gusts as 
high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it 
was a great choice, although tacking took a 
while. ?Once through the tack, the wind just 
kept blowing the bow down. ?Had to gain speed 
and nurse it back to windward. ?Downwind was a blast!RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws

Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I 
get to Touch? today to see 1/4 inch Phillips 
machine screws on the vang bracket. :)

Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that now.?
Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via 
CnC-List <

Re: Stus-List Plastic Welding Water Tank

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Bruce,

Yes, plastic welding is the way to go, don’t waist your time with sealant or 
adhesive repairs.I repaired the water tanks in my Landfall 38 by plastic 
welding.  I never plastic welded before this and the tanks are still holding 
fine.   Use a hot air welder, which Harbor Freight also sells.  I would be 
reluctant to use cheaper hot iron welder as welding requires softening the base 
plastic and the plastic welding rod.I purchased LDPE plastic welding rods 
from Granger.  My tank had a long cracked corner which I welded and then 
reinforced with some 316SS mesh (also from Grainger).

I have some details on my blog:

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/WaterTankRepair 






-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 31, 2017, at 11:18 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 13:16:20 + (UTC)
> From: Bruce Whitmore  >
> To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Plastic Welding Water Tank
> Message-ID: <726968754.3023553.1501506980...@mail.yahoo.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello all,
> We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+.? The starboard water tank is leaking through a 
> crack in an upper corner of the tank.? The P.O. tried to seal the crack with 
> a combination of silicone sealer reinforced with a piece of fiberglass 
> cloth.? Obviously, that repair didn't hold.? Thankfully, the tank was very 
> easy to remove!
> 
> I understand that welding plastic is pretty easy, and I've looked a video or 
> two, most of which show a tool that blows hot air, though a cheap version at 
> Harbor Freight looks more like a soldering kit, though I'm not sure its the 
> correct tool for the type of plastic used in making the water tanks.
> So, a couple quick questions:
> 1).? What type of plastic are the tanks made of?2).? What is the correct tool 
> for welding them?
> 
> Any hints or tips of course would be greatly appreciated!? ?Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 37/40+ fuel tank clean out

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get 
through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom out 
through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is there a 
cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the berth and find 
that I have to remove the tank to get it clean. That's a job for the off 
season. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ fuel tank clean out

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

You can pull the fuel gage sending unit under the queen berth and access
the tank that way.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 12:54 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get
> through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom out
> through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is there a
> cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the berth and
> find that I have to remove the tank to get it clean. That's a job for the
> off season.
>
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> C&C 37/40+
> Vancouver
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
~~~_/)~~
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ fuel tank clean out

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Please be careful.  A dock of 20 power boats burned up two weeks ago from
someone doing this.  Everything grounded with a large Type B at the ready.
Bill Dakin
C&C25MKII
S/V Tapestry



http://www.kxii.com/content/news/Highport-Marina-says-fire-started-from-man-pouring-out-gas-tank-436840283.html

On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 11:52 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get
> through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom out
> through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is there a
> cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the berth and
> find that I have to remove the tank to get it clean. That's a job for the
> off season.
>
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> C&C 37/40+
> Vancouver
>
>
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Stus-List '82 C&C 34'

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Just realized that maybe one of you have been a previous owner of my boat.
So I figured I'd ask.

I have pictures that show the name of the boat was previously Chardonnay
out of New Bern, North Carolina. I'm not sure of the purchase date from
that owner to bring it up to MD and renamed to Japhy's Spirit. But it was
raced on the Magothy River out of Cape St Claire before we purchased her
and took her to Cornfield Creek off the Magothy.

It's always fun to learn more of the history of boats and what they've been
through.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
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Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[john wright via CnC-List]

Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 

Thanks

Level 1: Repairs and Installations
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as needed 
to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
Replace all hoses for new engine
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to monitor 
visually
Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
Clean stains with FSR
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
Clean teak with teak cleaner
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 
Re-install mast and tune rigging
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
Re-varnish companionway door
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
Update propane solenoid 
Remake companionway door cover to fit better
Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
Clean and polish all stainless hardware
Replace gasket material on all opening ports
Repaint all dorade vents
Replace traveler cam cleat
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
Install and varnish framework for windows
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
Re-install all cabinets and tables
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
Head – re-cut new mirror and install
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work


Level 2: Updates and Improvements
Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that project
Paint steering pedestal white
Replace instruments
Replace opening port in cockpit with new
Add winch handle holders in cockpit
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
Make set of cockpit cushions
Install a cockpit shower
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
Replace all blocks with updated equipment
Replace all running rigging
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper as 
wood has shrunk over time)
Sand toe rail and varnish
Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
Paint interior of chain locker
Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
Yachts uses this style)
Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
Replace steering cables with new
Replace all interior lighting with LED
Install Isotherm hot water tank
Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
Add swim ladder


Level 3: Enhancements
Replace manual windlass with an electric version
Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
Install reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system
Add custom fitted mattress for sleeping berths
New mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease of hoist
Stack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)
Gooseneck double reefing hook from South Shore Yachts
Replace standing rod rigging for peace of mind
Add Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line furling unit
Add Wisker pole
Upgrade roller furling unit
Add Mantus anchor

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

New Steering chain and cables. Pedestal wheel shaft bearing lubrication or 
replacement. Check steering idler below pedestal (sheaves, bearings, corrosion).
It is unwise to spend countless hours "varnishing" and installing gadgets to 
prep for a cruise but give no thought to the steering system.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2017, at 6:35 PM, john wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose 
> ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
> after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
> in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
> 
> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Level 1: Repairs and Installations
> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
> Replace all hoses for new engine
> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
> monitor visually
> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
> Clean stains with FSR
> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
> Clean teak with teak cleaner
> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
> Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 
> Re-install mast and tune rigging
> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
> Re-varnish companionway door
> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
> Update propane solenoid 
> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
> Replace gasket material on all opening ports
> Repaint all dorade vents
> Replace traveler cam cleat
> Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
> Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
> Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
> Install and varnish framework for windows
> Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
> Re-install all cabinets and tables
> Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
> Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
> Head – re-cut new mirror and install
> Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
> Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work
> 
> 
> Level 2: Updates and Improvements
> Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that 
> project
> Paint steering pedestal white
> Replace instruments
> Replace opening port in cockpit with new
> Add winch handle holders in cockpit
> Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
> Make set of cockpit cushions
> Install a cockpit shower
> Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
> Replace all blocks with updated equipment
> Replace all running rigging
> Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
> Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper 
> as wood has shrunk over time)
> Sand toe rail and varnish
> Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
> Paint interior of chain locker
> Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
> Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
> All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
> Yachts uses this style)
> Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
> Replace steering cables with new
> Replace all interior lighting with LED
> Install Isotherm hot water tank
> Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
> Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
> Add swim ladder
> 
> 
> Level 3: Enhancements
> Replace manual windlass with an electric version
> Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
> Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
> Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
> Install reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system
> Add custom fitted mattress for sleeping berths
> New mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease of hoist
> Stack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)
> Gooseneck double reefing hook from South Shore Yachts
> Replace standing rod rigging for peace of mind
> Add Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line furling unit
> Add Wisker pole
> Upgrade roller furling unit
> Add Mantus anchor
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Have you visited Wally's site?
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/projlist.htm

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 5:35 PM, john wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone
>
> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my
> purpose ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500
> in 2019), after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years.
> The boat is in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
>
> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate
> any recommendations and reorganizing of the list.
>
> Thanks
>
> *Level 1: Repairs and Installations*
> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as
> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
> Replace all hoses for new engine
> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to
> monitor visually
> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
> Clean stains with FSR
> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
> Clean teak with teak cleaner
> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces
> Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint
> Re-install mast and tune rigging
> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
> Re-varnish companionway door
> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
> Update propane solenoid
> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
> Replace gasket material on all opening ports
> Repaint all dorade vents
> Replace traveler cam cleat
> Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
> Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
> Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
> Install and varnish framework for windows
> Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
> Re-install all cabinets and tables
> Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
> Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
> Head – re-cut new mirror and install
> Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
> Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work
>
>
> *Level 2: Updates and Improvements*
> Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that
> project
> Paint steering pedestal white
> Replace instruments
> Replace opening port in cockpit with new
> Add winch handle holders in cockpit
> Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
> Make set of cockpit cushions
> Install a cockpit shower
> Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
> Replace all blocks with updated equipment
> Replace all running rigging
> Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
> Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws
> deeper as wood has shrunk over time)
> Sand toe rail and varnish
> Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
> Paint interior of chain locker
> Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
> Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original
> color
> All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan
> Yachts uses this style)
> Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
> Replace steering cables with new
> Replace all interior lighting with LED
> Install Isotherm hot water tank
> Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
> Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
> Add swim ladder
>
>
> *Level 3: Enhancements*
> Replace manual windlass with an electric version
> Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
> Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
> Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
> Install reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system
> Add custom fitted mattress for sleeping berths
> New mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease of
> hoist
> Stack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)
> Gooseneck double reefing hook from South Shore Yachts
> Replace standing rod rigging for peace of mind
> Add Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line furling unit
> Add Wisker pole
> Upgrade roller furling unit
> Add Mantus anchor
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[john wright via CnC-List]

 Dennis: My wife refers to Wallys Bolg as my  “porn”, because I watch and read 
it every day. I am actually trying to reach him if anyone can help.

Thanks


> On Jul 31, 2017, at 7:34 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Have you visited Wally's site?  
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/projlist.htm 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 5:35 PM, john wright via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello everyone
> 
> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose 
> ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
> after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
> in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
> 
> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Level 1: Repairs and Installations
> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
> Replace all hoses for new engine
> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
> monitor visually
> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
> Clean stains with FSR
> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
> Clean teak with teak cleaner
> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
> Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 
> Re-install mast and tune rigging
> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
> Re-varnish companionway door
> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
> Update propane solenoid 
> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
> Replace gasket material on all opening ports
> Repaint all dorade vents
> Replace traveler cam cleat
> Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
> Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
> Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
> Install and varnish framework for windows
> Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
> Re-install all cabinets and tables
> Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
> Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
> Head – re-cut new mirror and install
> Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
> Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work
> 
> 
> Level 2: Updates and Improvements
> Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that 
> project
> Paint steering pedestal white
> Replace instruments
> Replace opening port in cockpit with new
> Add winch handle holders in cockpit
> Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
> Make set of cockpit cushions
> Install a cockpit shower
> Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
> Replace all blocks with updated equipment
> Replace all running rigging
> Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
> Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper 
> as wood has shrunk over time)
> Sand toe rail and varnish
> Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
> Paint interior of chain locker
> Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
> Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
> All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
> Yachts uses this style)
> Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
> Replace steering cables with new
> Replace all interior lighting with LED
> Install Isotherm hot water tank
> Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
> Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
> Add swim ladder
> 
> 
> Level 3: Enhancements
> Replace manual windlass with an electric version
> Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
> Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
> Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
> Install reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system
> Add custom fitted mattress for sleeping berths
> New mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease of hoist
> Stack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)
> Gooseneck double reefing hook from South Shore Yachts
> Replace standing rod rigging for peace of mind
> Add Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line furling unit
> Add Wisker pole
> Upgrade roller furling unit
> Add Mantus anchor
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the gene

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[james via CnC-List]

John,

I'll make a few comments on projects that I have done

Companion way doors, if you want to redo the veneer, look at 
woodworkersource.com.

Awesome place to get teak veneer to go over existing or new panels...

Cockpit cushions- I can not recommend Bottomsiders.com highly enough. 
Awesome cushions.


ACDC panel- I went with Blue Seas, no regrets

Air Conditioning- Webasto, no questions! Awesome product, no problems.

Deck hardware- Guarhauer, without a doubt!

James Taylor

C&C 38

Oriental, NC


On 7/31/2017 6:35 PM, john wright via CnC-List wrote:

Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my 
purpose ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 
1500 in 2019), after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the 
past 4 years. The boat is in better than average condition, I will 
post pictures later.


I have the work broken down into three categories, and would 
appreciate any recommendations and reorganizing of the list.


Thanks

*Level 1: Repairs and Installations*
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed 
as needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e

Replace all hoses for new engine
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location 
to monitor visually

Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
Clean stains with FSR
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
Clean teak with teak cleaner
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces
Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint
Re-install mast and tune rigging
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
Re-varnish companionway door
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
Update propane solenoid
Remake companionway door cover to fit better
Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
Clean and polish all stainless hardware
Replace gasket material on all opening ports
Repaint all dorade vents
Replace traveler cam cleat
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
Install and varnish framework for windows
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
Re-install all cabinets and tables
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
Head – re-cut new mirror and install
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work


*Level 2: Updates and Improvements*
Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to 
that project

Paint steering pedestal white
Replace instruments
Replace opening port in cockpit with new
Add winch handle holders in cockpit
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
Make set of cockpit cushions
Install a cockpit shower
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
Replace all blocks with updated equipment
Replace all running rigging
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws 
deeper as wood has shrunk over time)

Sand toe rail and varnish
Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
Paint interior of chain locker
Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original 
color
All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow 
(Tartan Yachts uses this style)

Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
Replace steering cables with new
Replace all interior lighting with LED
Install Isotherm hot water tank
Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
Add swim ladder
*
*
*
*
*Level 3: Enhancements*
Replace manual windlass with an electric version
Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
Install reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system
Add custom fitted mattress for sleeping berths
New mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease 
of hoist

Stack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)
Gooseneck double reefing hook from South Shore Yachts
Replace standing rod rigging for peace of mind
Add Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line furling unit
Add Wisker pole
Upgrade roller furling unit
Add Mantus anchor



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurra

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I didn't find increase beer stowage and wine 
locker volume and adding an ice maker in this list.


cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
sent from an old HP machine, running XP

At 03:48 PM 31/07/2017, you wrote:
New Steering chain and cables. Pedestal wheel 
shaft bearing lubrication or replacement. Check 
steering idler below pedestal (sheaves, bearings, corrosion).
It is unwise to spend countless hours 
"varnishing" and installing gadgets to prep for 
a cruise but give no thought to the steering system.

Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 31, 2017, at 6:35 PM, john wright via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is 
the best boat  for my purpose ( sailing around 
Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 
1500 in 2019), after looking or sailing at 
least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat 
is in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.


I have the work broken down into three 
categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.


Thanks

Level 1: Repairs and Installations
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine 
room, rebuild engine bed as needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e

Replace all hoses for new engine
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel 
filter to easier location to monitor visually

Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoatt
Clean stains with FSR
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
Clean teak with teak cleaner
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces
Hull bottom – sand and repaint withh anti-fouling ablative paint
Re-install mast and tune rigging
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
Re-varnish companionway door
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
Update propane solenoid
Remake companionway door cover to fit better
Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
Clean and polish all stainless hardware
Replace gasket material on all opening ports
Repaint all dorade vents
Replace traveler cam cleat
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
Install and varnish framework for windows
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
Re-install all cabinets and tables
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
Ice box cover – installl hardware and gasket
Head – re-cut new mirror aand install
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work


Level 2: Updates and Improvements
Hull repainting – large project to be 
deescribed as we get closer to that project

Paint steering pedestal white
Replace instruments
Replace opening port in cockpit with new
Add winch handle holders in cockpit
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
Make set of cockpit cushions
Install a cockpit shower
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
Replace all blocks with updated equipment
Replace all running rigging
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail 
(may need to reset screws deeper as wood has shrunk over time)

Sand toe rail and varnish
Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
Paint interior of chain locker
Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or 
Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan Yachts uses this style)

Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
Replace steering cables with new
Replace all interior lighting with LED
Install Isotherm hot water tank
Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
Add swim ladder


Level 3: Enhancements
Replace manual windlass with an electric version
Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
Install reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system
Add custom fitted mattress for sleeping berths
New mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease of hoist
Stack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)
Gooseneck double reefing hook from South Shore Yachts
Replace standing rod rigging for peace of mind
Add Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line furling unit
Add Wisker pole
Upgrade roller furling unit
Add Mantus anchor
___

This list is supported by th

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[john wright via CnC-List]

Russ, I didn’t say whats going into the bilge!!


Chuck, thank you for the suggestion. We are actually sailing and will be at the 
New Bedford Yacht club next week. 


> On Jul 31, 2017, at 7:47 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I didn't find increase beer stowage and wine locker volume and adding an ice 
> maker in this list.
> 
> cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> sent from an old HP machine, running XP
> 
> At 03:48 PM 31/07/2017, you wrote:
>> New Steering chain and cables. Pedestal wheel shaft bearing lubrication or 
>> replacement. Check steering idler below pedestal (sheaves, bearings, 
>> corrosion).
>> It is unwise to spend countless hours "varnishing" and installing gadgets to 
>> prep for a cruise but give no thought to the steering system.
>> Chuck Gilchrest 
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 1983 35 Landfall
>> Padanaram, MA
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Jul 31, 2017, at 6:35 PM, john wright via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>>> Hello everyone
>>> 
>>> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my 
>>> purpose ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 
>>> in 2019), after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. 
>>> The boat is in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
>>> 
>>> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
>>> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Level 1: Repairs and Installations
>>> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
>>> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
>>> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
>>> Replace all hoses for new engine
>>> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
>>> monitor visually
>>> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoatt
>>> Clean stains with FSR
>>> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
>>> Clean teak with teak cleaner
>>> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
>>> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
>>> Hull bottom – sand and repaint withh anti-fouling ablative paint 
>>> Re-install mast and tune rigging
>>> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
>>> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
>>> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
>>> Re-varnish companionway door
>>> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
>>> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
>>> Update propane solenoid 
>>> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
>>> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
>>> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
>>> Replace gasket material on all opening ports
>>> Repaint all dorade vents
>>> Replace traveler cam cleat
>>> Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
>>> Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
>>> Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
>>> Install and varnish framework for windows
>>> Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
>>> Re-install all cabinets and tables
>>> Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
>>> Ice box cover – installl hardware and gasket
>>> Head – re-cut new mirror aand install
>>> Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
>>> Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Level 2: Updates and Improvements
>>> Hull repainting – large project to be deescribed as we get closer to that 
>>> project
>>> Paint steering pedestal white
>>> Replace instruments
>>> Replace opening port in cockpit with new
>>> Add winch handle holders in cockpit
>>> Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
>>> Make set of cockpit cushions
>>> Install a cockpit shower
>>> Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
>>> Replace all blocks with updated equipment
>>> Replace all running rigging
>>> Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
>>> Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws 
>>> deeper as wood has shrunk over time)
>>> Sand toe rail and varnish
>>> Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
>>> Paint interior of chain locker
>>> Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
>>> Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
>>> All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
>>> Yachts uses this style)
>>> Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
>>> Replace steering cables with new
>>> Replace all interior lighting with LED
>>> Install Isotherm hot water tank
>>> Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
>>> Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
>>> Add swim ladder
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Level 3: Enhancements
>>> Replace manual windlass with an electric version
>>> Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
>>> Add pad-e

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[detroito91]

John... You've got me tired reading all this. I too have an 81 38 lf so i 
will be closely watching your progress. The cockpit cushions was satisfied 
early in the program. As was dodger, bimini, and complete covers with screening 
& glass. Our toe rails were PAINTED by previous owner! Restoring back to teak 
natural color.Keep me updated.Jim schwartzSEA YA!Washington nc
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE device



-- Original message--From: john wright via CnC-ListDate: Mon, Jul 31, 
2017 6:36 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: john wright;Subject:Stus-List Refit 
for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone
I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
Thanks
Level 1: Repairs and InstallationsReplace old set of AGM batteries with new 
setRemove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5eReplace all hoses for new engineMove raw 
water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to monitor 
visuallyGelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoatClean stains with 
FSRRepair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)Clean teak 
with teak cleanerReplace teak combing with thicker mahogany boardsClean and 
Polish all gelcoat surfaces Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling 
ablative paint Re-install mast and tune riggingMake line hanger in cockpit 
below deck winches functional once againAdd gasket to aft access panel under 
helm seatRepair/ refinish wood framework to companionwayRe-varnish companionway 
doorMake better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition 
woodInstall the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpitUpdate propane solenoid 
Remake companionway door cover to fit betterDeck and House – clean and 
re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)Clean and polish all stainless 
hardwareReplace gasket material on all opening portsRepaint all dorade 
ventsReplace traveler cam cleatClean, sand and varnish bow platformStanchion 
support on starboard bent – take to shop and straightenAdd maintenance coat of 
varnish on floors and re-secureInstall and varnish framework for windowsRepair 
and revarnish bulkheads where neededRe-install all cabinets and tablesFinish 
installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berthIce box cover – 
install hardware and gasketHead – re-cut new mirror and installForward cabin 
has trim work that needs to be installedBrow in forward cabin to be replaced 
with new trim work

Level 2: Updates and ImprovementsHull repainting – large project to be 
described as we get closer to that projectPaint steering pedestal whiteReplace 
instrumentsReplace opening port in cockpit with newAdd winch handle holders in 
cockpitPaint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floorMake set of cockpit 
cushionsInstall a cockpit showerRe-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates 
(last another 20 years)Replace all blocks with updated equipmentReplace all 
running riggingReplace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under 
loadReplace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws 
deeper as wood has shrunk over time)Sand toe rail and varnishWinches to be 
stripped cleaned and greasedPaint interior of chain lockerMake a grating for 
chain locker to help rode to dryStanchion bases and cleats to be removed and 
powder coated to original colorAll deck non-skid to be renewed with white or 
Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan Yachts uses this style)Add stanchion rollers for 
headsail furling line to lead to cockpitReplace steering cables with newReplace 
all interior lighting with LEDInstall Isotherm hot water tankReplace interior 
cushions with new foam and fabricsReplace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea 
panelAdd swim ladder

Level 3: EnhancementsReplace manual windlass with an electric versionUpgrade 
chain and rope to fit new windlassAdd pad-eye on bow platform for code zero 
sailAdd Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries GeneratorInstall reverse cycle heat 
and air conditioning systemAdd custom fitted mattress for sleeping berthsNew 
mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease of 
hoistStack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)Gooseneck double 
reefing hook from South Shore YachtsReplace standing rod rigging for peace of 
mindAdd Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line furling unitAdd Wisker 
poleUpgrade roller furling unitAdd Mantus anchor
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this.

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger.

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals.

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1.

The way I see it I have three options:

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out
C: Keep digging

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
C&C 30-1 #615
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

All I can say is OMG. and I thought my new boat was bad with all the wires that 
go nowhere. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/31/17  22:44  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Hobson  Subject: 
Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...) 

Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this.

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger.

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals.

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1.

The way I see it I have three options:

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out
C: Keep digging

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
C&C 30-1 #615
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!