Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Kevin is correct. 207 hardened when over wood rather than 206 as I previously 
mentioned. I did use 207 as well. 206 will not flow properly on wood.

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Kevin Paxton via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: September 27, 2017 9:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

Did this last year on our 34'. Dave and Mike are spot on with everything. 
Definitely tape the lines where you will be cutting to protect the veneer. I 
also used a circular saw, table saw, jig saw and a router. Used a hand planner 
for final tweaking of the cuts.

My new lines were not the same width as the old but it wasn't much of an issue. 
When you trace out the templates it isn't too hard to line everything up.

One thing I did that I didn't see mentioned was to drill all holes before 
applying any epoxy. I also epoxied the whole thing to seal it in completely, 
then finished with epifanes. I used West system 105/207. The 207 is a clear 
hardener that won't mess up the top finish.  I did about 3-4 coats of each. A 
foam roller for the epoxy and foam brushes for the varnish. I tried the cheapo 
chip brushes but continuously got stray bristles everywhere.

The epoxy if I remember correctly you didn't want it to dry completely between 
coats.
The varnish I wet sanded in between coats. Gradually getting higher in grit 
between each.

Try to control dust as much as possible. Do this in a clean area where there 
isn't much traffic. Or surround it all by plastic to prevent anything from 
getting into it.

It was definitely a long, tedious process. But it was definitely worth it. Our 
old sole was chipping and so deteriorated. But once this went in, it was like 
it was a new boat.

Kevin Paxton
82' 34
Cornfield creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017, 7:05 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Jonathan,

I don’t have much to add to what Mike has said but his is pretty good advice. 
I’ve replaced the cabin sole on “Ronin” twice. You should need two 4’x8’ pieces 
of teak and holly plywood. I suspect that it will be 3/4” just like our 37’. As 
Mike said, get your wallet out…

I used a router for the final edging to size. Like Mike, I used a “Skillsaw” 
for the long straight edges and a Bosch jig-saw for smaller cuts into corners. 
I kept the dimensions at least 1/4” larger than the original flooring layout.

I used the old flooring as a template and router guide, with attendant 
problems
  to produce the final product. West System 
epoxy
 for sides and backs. The first set that I built lasted about 12-14 years but 
moisture will infiltrate over time, especially if the holes for screwing the 
flooring in are dry. I used gloss Awlwood for surfacing, finished off with a 
standard satin finish varnish. The first time I did this job I finished with a 
gloss finish. I decided over time that I preferred satin.

One thing to keep in mind: The original teak and holly that C&C used in my 1982 
model was NOT the same as what is currently being sold. The new teak and holly 
plywood has wider parallel widths.

One thing is for sure, when you are done it will look tremendous!

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Sep 27, 2017, at 12:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Jonathan

I just completed this project in the Spring of 2016.  The Frers 33 is not the 
same boat as the C&C 35-III but a lot of the techniques for this job are 
similar so I will answer a bit of what I can to some of your questions.

First be prepared for sticker shock.  I purchased a single 4x8 sheet of 3/4 
inch teak and holly and it was over $600 CAD.

1a) Lining up.  I took out all of the existing pieces and took them home.  When 
I traced out and before cutting the new pieces I lined up the holly lines with 
those of the pieces being replaced with the assumption that it would line up 
the same as the old sole.  It did.  I think the first step will be to ensure 
your current sole does in fact have the strips lined up.

1b) Number of pieces. Try an inexpensive piece of 4x8 pressboard or paneling or 
something similar that is 1/4 inch thick.  When I bought my sheet of teak and 
Holly it came with something like this to protect the surface during transport. 
 Once you have this lay out the pieces of old sole on top and trace them out.  
You can then turn it over to trace out the remaining pieces on the back.  Is 
kind of like a jigsaw puzzle but will give you a pretty clear picture how many 
pieces of sole material are needed.  If you use a couple of these 1/4 4 x 8 
sheets you could also cut out the traced piece

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

When I did this 10+ years ago [albeit not on a C&C] I used the existing pieces 
as templates and then dry fit them, sanding any rub points from my less than 
perfect cuts.  All was good.  Applying multiple coats of epoxy and then varnish 
on the pieces, particularly on the bilge board, built up the widths of the 
pieces so they no longer fit together well.  Had to sand and re-coat the edges 
and the bilge board still rubs.  Something a little forethought might have 
prevented.  

 

The moral of the story is to leave sufficient space on the edges when 
confirming a dry fit for the thicknesses of whatever coatings you apply.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 8:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

 

Did this last year on our 34'. Dave and Mike are spot on with everything. 
Definitely tape the lines where you will be cutting to protect the veneer. I 
also used a circular saw, table saw, jig saw and a router. Used a hand planner 
for final tweaking of the cuts.

My new lines were not the same width as the old but it wasn't much of an issue. 
When you trace out the templates it isn't too hard to line everything up.

One thing I did that I didn't see mentioned was to drill all holes before 
applying any epoxy. I also epoxied the whole thing to seal it in completely, 
then finished with epifanes. I used West system 105/207. The 207 is a clear 
hardener that won't mess up the top finish.  I did about 3-4 coats of each. A 
foam roller for the epoxy and foam brushes for the varnish. I tried the cheapo 
chip brushes but continuously got stray bristles everywhere.

The epoxy if I remember correctly you didn't want it to dry completely between 
coats. 
The varnish I wet sanded in between coats. Gradually getting higher in grit 
between each.

Try to control dust as much as possible. Do this in a clean area where there 
isn't much traffic. Or surround it all by plastic to prevent anything from 
getting into it.

It was definitely a long, tedious process. But it was definitely worth it. Our 
old sole was chipping and so deteriorated. But once this went in, it was like 
it was a new boat.

Kevin Paxton
82' 34
Cornfield creek, Pasadena, MD

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[David via CnC-List]

Repowered my Bristol 30 with a Beta.

Not only less expensive but as it is based on a Kubota diesel parts are 
everywhere and less expensive.

It's design incorporate's maintenance ease...built in oil pumpainting etc.  And 
great customer service.



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
Date: 9/27/17 5:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

Hi

I continue to try and understand what is wrong with my engine without paying 
more good money.  And I have started looking for a new motor.

First the problem.  The engine recently started to leak a fair amount of oil 
and to start poorly.  We spent a lot of time trying to find exactly where the 
leak was from and I had thought it was the head gasket.  The local mechanic, 
Charles at Gartside, said he really didn't think it would be the head gasket as 
he had never seen an oil leak from one.  We cleaned the engine with brake 
cleaner, got some florescent tracing dye, put it in the engine and let it run 
for an extended period.  Although we some some oil leak never saw the 
florescence with a black light.

Regardless we decided it must be coming from the intake manifold.  Of course 
the leak is where it is almost impossible to get to but where the leak occurs 
there aren't too many options.  The intake manifold can get too much oil in it 
if there is blowback increasing air pressure in the valve and rocker arm cover. 
 So, while the engine was running I pulled off the breather hose which runs 
from the cover to the manifold.  And there was pressure and there was oil which 
blew all over.

Now for the first question.  Everything I read says this is a result of a worn 
engine - rings, cylinder walls, etc. which leaks air into the crankcase 
building up pressure.  Has anyone ever seen a different reason for this?  I had 
a compression test done about 8 months ago and all was fine then.  But that was 
then.  My take is a 37 year old raw water cooled engine is not worth that kind 
of repair, albeit it only has 2,000 hours on it.

Second question.  I'm currently looking at a Yanmar and a Beta engine.  Any 
comments?  The Beta is cheaper.  Also they sell a 25 HP which seems about right 
for the boat.  Both appear too wide to get in on my C&C 34.  Anyone have 
experience with this?

Thanks
Don Jonsson
C&C 34
Victoria



Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Replacement chain plate

[Glen Eddie via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

We are just getting the decking back together on Freya IV (C&C 35 mk I) and it 
would seem that the gentleman that was doing some of the deck repairs has lost 
the port aft chain plate.  Any ideas where I could get a replacement chain 
plate made in the Greater Toronto Area?

Your assistance is appreciated.

Glen Eddie

Tel:  416-777-5357

Fax:  1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you
___

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

OK, has any lister seen a mainsail pre-feeder/feeder that goes in a track
with slides?

Let me clarify so I don't get replies that miss the mark.  Touche's
mainsail slot has slides, not slugs.  A slug is round, slides are "T"
shaped.  Slugs go into a round slot.  Slides go into a "T" shaped slot.

Here is a feeder for a slug slot:
https://www.mauripro.com/us/product/SPIRFMA.html

This is a slide:
http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/allen-brothers/product-29493-218604.html

Here is a feeder that attaches to the mast:
http://www.apsltd.com/dinghy-sail-feeder-8mm-max-luff-1.html

I see lots of mainsail pre-feeders/feeders that go in the round slug slot
or attach to the mast across the slot with fasteners but I can't find any
that simply go into the "T" shaped slot.

I guess slides are outdated?  Was kinda wanting a pre-feeder that I could
simply put in the slot.

May have to get a slug feeder and replace the slug with a flat metal
slide.  :(

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement chain plate

[schiller via CnC-List]

The port side chainplates from Corsair are still good.  You could check 
with John Reelman at Torresen Marine to see about them.  Once again, he 
has told me the the biggest impediment is shipping across the border.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan

On 9/28/2017 11:50 AM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List wrote:


Hello everyone,

We are just getting the decking back together on Freya IV (C&C 35 mk 
I) and it would seem that the gentleman that was doing some of the 
deck repairs has lost the port aft chain plate.  Any ideas where I 
could get a replacement chain plate made in the Greater Toronto Area?


Your assistance is appreciated.

*Glen Eddie***

Tel:  416-777-5357

Fax:  1-888-812-2557

*Torkin Manes LLP*
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the 
named recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, 
confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you




___

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Not what you asked about, but if you end up doing an upgrade, I suggest Tides 
Marine Sailtrack System.

https://www.tidesmarine.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=363

I installed this system on my 34 almost two decades ago and it worked great.  I 
now have it on my 42, and I can hoist the main nearly to the top without a 
winch.  It’s a great system.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 4:18 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

OK, has any lister seen a mainsail pre-feeder/feeder that goes in a track with 
slides? 

Let me clarify so I don't get replies that miss the mark.  Touche's mainsail 
slot has slides, not slugs.  A slug is round, slides are "T" shaped.  Slugs go 
into a round slot.  Slides go into a "T" shaped slot.

Here is a feeder for a slug slot:  
https://www.mauripro.com/us/product/SPIRFMA.html

This is a slide:  
http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/allen-brothers/product-29493-218604.html

Here is a feeder that attaches to the mast: 
http://www.apsltd.com/dinghy-sail-feeder-8mm-max-luff-1.html

I see lots of mainsail pre-feeders/feeders that go in the round slug slot or 
attach to the mast across the slot with fasteners but I can't find any that 
simply go into the "T" shaped slot.

I guess slides are outdated?  Was kinda wanting a pre-feeder that I could 
simply put in the slot.  

May have to get a slug feeder and replace the slug with a flat metal slide.  :(

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Dennis,  those pre-feeders aren’t for slugs, they are for boltropes.

I put one on the Viking 22 that I had, the main didn’t have slugs or slides, 
just the boltrope that fed into the slot on the mast.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: September-28-17 16:19
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

 

OK, has any lister seen a mainsail pre-feeder/feeder that goes in a track with 
slides?

 

Let me clarify so I don't get replies that miss the mark.  Touche's mainsail 
slot has slides, not slugs.  A slug is round, slides are "T" shaped.  Slugs go 
into a round slot.  Slides go into a "T" shaped slot.

 

Here is a feeder for a slug slot:  
https://www.mauripro.com/us/product/SPIRFMA.html

 

This is a slide:  
http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/allen-brothers/product-29493-218604.html

 

Here is a feeder that attaches to the mast: 
http://www.apsltd.com/dinghy-sail-feeder-8mm-max-luff-1.html

 

I see lots of mainsail pre-feeders/feeders that go in the round slug slot or 
attach to the mast across the slot with fasteners but I can't find any that 
simply go into the "T" shaped slot.

 

I guess slides are outdated?  Was kinda wanting a pre-feeder that I could 
simply put in the slot.  

 

May have to get a slug feeder and replace the slug with a flat metal slide.  :(

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

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Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The
manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper
alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up
the pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being
compatible with the rubber parts.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Mineral oil.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 28, 2017, at 6:24 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The 
> manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper 
> alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up the 
> pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being compatible with 
> the rubber parts.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrication

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you listen to what Peggy Hall says, use Teflon-based thick grease 
(SuperLube). Don’t put it into the bowl; rather, unscrew the  pump and put it 
there from the back end. It should last a year  or so.

Any oil in your holding tank would only create clogs.

Compare e.g. this: 
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/peggy-using-canola-oil-in-marine-toilet.187676/#post-1402530

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 18:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard 
Subject: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The manufacturer 
sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper alternative.  I've used 
vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up the pump.  A friend uses motor 
oil but I worry about it not being compatible with the rubber parts.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
___

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Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've tried tried "head lube", TefGel, wheel grease, couple other things.
Nothing works as well as Superlube.

So, primarily, I use Superlube.  Pop the top off the Jabsco pump assembly,
pull out the plunger, wipe some on the plunger o-ring and the shaft and
re-install.

In between SuperLube applications, I use olive oil.  I keep a small bottle
of olive oil on the boat for cooking.  Each spring, I replace the bottle
with a new one.  What's left in the old bottle becomes interim head lube.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 5:24 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The
> manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper
> alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up
> the pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being
> compatible with the rubber parts.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yeah, that finally dawned on me.  Duh!  Big time senior moment.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 4:50 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,  those pre-feeders aren’t for slugs, they are for boltropes.
>
> I put one on the Viking 22 that I had, the main didn’t have slugs or
> slides, just the boltrope that fed into the slot on the mast.
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Boatless
>
> Leamington, Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* September-28-17 16:19
> *To:* CnClist
> *Cc:* Dennis C.
> *Subject:* Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?
>
>
>
> OK, has any lister seen a mainsail pre-feeder/feeder that goes in a track
> with slides?
>
>
>
> Let me clarify so I don't get replies that miss the mark.  Touche's
> mainsail slot has slides, not slugs.  A slug is round, slides are "T"
> shaped.  Slugs go into a round slot.  Slides go into a "T" shaped slot.
>
>
>
> Here is a feeder for a slug slot:  https://www.mauripro.
> com/us/product/SPIRFMA.html
>
>
>
> This is a slide:  http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/allen-brothers/
> product-29493-218604.html
>
>
>
> Here is a feeder that attaches to the mast: http://www.apsltd.com/
> dinghy-sail-feeder-8mm-max-luff-1.html
>
>
>
> I see lots of mainsail pre-feeders/feeders that go in the round slug slot
> or attach to the mast across the slot with fasteners but I can't find any
> that simply go into the "T" shaped slot.
>
>
>
> I guess slides are outdated?  Was kinda wanting a pre-feeder that I could
> simply put in the slot.
>
>
>
> May have to get a slug feeder and replace the slug with a flat metal
> slide.  :(
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Virus-free. www.avg.com
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I think the feeders are formations with bolt rope. We had on our last boat. 
This boat uses slugs and the stay in slot when sail is down. You have me 
thinking though ...

Mike

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: September 28, 2017 5:18 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

OK, has any lister seen a mainsail pre-feeder/feeder that goes in a track with 
slides?

Let me clarify so I don't get replies that miss the mark.  Touche's mainsail 
slot has slides, not slugs.  A slug is round, slides are "T" shaped.  Slugs go 
into a round slot.  Slides go into a "T" shaped slot.

Here is a feeder for a slug slot:  
https://www.mauripro.com/us/product/SPIRFMA.html

This is a slide:  
http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/allen-brothers/product-29493-218604.html

Here is a feeder that attaches to the mast: 
http://www.apsltd.com/dinghy-sail-feeder-8mm-max-luff-1.html

I see lots of mainsail pre-feeders/feeders that go in the round slug slot or 
attach to the mast across the slot with fasteners but I can't find any that 
simply go into the "T" shaped slot.

I guess slides are outdated?  Was kinda wanting a pre-feeder that I could 
simply put in the slot.

May have to get a slug feeder and replace the slug with a flat metal slide.  :(

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

___

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Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I like your system.  Makes sense to me!
Rick
Paikea 37+
Tacoma, WA

> On Sep 28, 2017, at 3:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've tried tried "head lube", TefGel, wheel grease, couple other things.  
> Nothing works as well as Superlube.
> 
> So, primarily, I use Superlube.  Pop the top off the Jabsco pump assembly, 
> pull out the plunger, wipe some on the plunger o-ring and the shaft and 
> re-install.  
> 
> In between SuperLube applications, I use olive oil.  I keep a small bottle of 
> olive oil on the boat for cooking.  Each spring, I replace the bottle with a 
> new one.  What's left in the old bottle becomes interim head lube.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 5:24 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The 
> manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper 
> alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up the 
> pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being compatible with 
> the rubber parts.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrication

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fred:

I just lubricate the O-ring on the pump with silicon grease that I got at a
plumbing supply store (Morlan Plumbing in Tigard)

Alan Bergen.

On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 3:32 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you listen to what Peggy Hall says, use Teflon-based thick grease
> (SuperLube). Don’t put it into the bowl; rather, unscrew the  pump and put
> it there from the back end. It should last a year  or so.
>
>
>
> Any oil in your holding tank would only create clogs.
>
>
>
> Compare e.g. this: https://forums.sailboatowners.
> com/index.php?threads/peggy-using-canola-oil-in-marine-
> toilet.187676/#post-1402530
> 
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Fred
> Hazzard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 28, 2017 18:25
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Toilet lubrecation
>
>
>
> What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The
> manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper
> alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up
> the pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being
> compatible with the rubber parts.
>
>
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> S/V Fury
>
> C&C 44
>
> Portland, Or
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> kjdfZjIpugr106gynhrj2xZ3d0vHRPDpMvxyPb1sZL0&s=
> XfU9x4cpmYvfhChstzbEwFaWnC15nj-VWcWqSmPFJJ8&e=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I don't know why you need a pre-feeder.  Pre-feeders are only needed if you
don't have slugs or slides on the luff.  Once the main is up, you just need
something to close the entry slot.  Then when you drop the main, it stays
in the track.  Am I missing something?

I, too, use the Tides Marine Strong Track.  It's expensive, but well worth
the money.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 1:42 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not what you asked about, but if you end up doing an upgrade, I suggest
> Tides Marine Sailtrack System.
>
> https://www.tidesmarine.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=363
> 
>
> I installed this system on my 34 almost two decades ago and it worked
> great.  I now have it on my 42, and I can hoist the main nearly to the top
> without a winch.  It’s a great system.
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 28, 2017 4:18 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?
>
> OK, has any lister seen a mainsail pre-feeder/feeder that goes in a track
> with slides?
>
> Let me clarify so I don't get replies that miss the mark.  Touche's
> mainsail slot has slides, not slugs.  A slug is round, slides are "T"
> shaped.  Slugs go into a round slot.  Slides go into a "T" shaped slot.
>
> Here is a feeder for a slug slot:  https://www.mauripro.com/us/
> product/SPIRFMA.html
> 
>
> This is a slide:  http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/allen-brothers/product-
> 29493-218604.html
> 
>
> Here is a feeder that attaches to the mast: http://www.apsltd.com/dinghy-
> sail-feeder-8mm-max-luff-1.html
> 
>
> I see lots of mainsail pre-feeders/feeders that go in the round slug slot
> or attach to the mast across the slot with fasteners but I can't find any
> that simply go into the "T" shaped slot.
>
> I guess slides are outdated?  Was kinda wanting a pre-feeder that I could
> simply put in the slot.
>
> May have to get a slug feeder and replace the slug with a flat metal
> slide.  :(
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> --
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> fnJOaFt7oX8vkqE5oSCF2Q3mFV5U7RhMEecCOuWIn8U&s=kqKaqfR-TS-zx9DM0ya2rEraULW-
> iYtlHFFXs7szf1A&e=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrication

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Another equivalent version of Teflon grease can be easily found at pool supply 
stores.  I have become a big fan of the stuff.
Just my $.02 worth..
Bruce Whitmore


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/28/17  9:19 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C 
 Cc: ALAN BERGEN  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Toilet lubrication 
Fred:

I just lubricate the O-ring on the pump with silicon grease that I got at a 
plumbing supply store (Morlan Plumbing in Tigard)

Alan Bergen.

On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 3:32 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
















If you listen to what Peggy Hall says, use Teflon-based thick grease 
(SuperLube). Don’t put it into the bowl; rather, unscrew the  pump and put it 
there from the back end. It should last a year  or so.

 

Any oil in your holding tank would only create clogs.

 

Compare e.g. this: 

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/peggy-using-canola-oil-in-marine-toilet.187676/#post-1402530



 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]

On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard via CnC-List


Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 18:25


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Cc: Fred Hazzard 


Subject: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

 





What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The manufacturer 
sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper alternative.  I've used 
vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum

 up the pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being 
compatible with the rubber parts.





 





Fred Hazzard





S/V Fury





C&C 44





Portland, Or












___



The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=kjdfZjIpugr106gynhrj2xZ3d0vHRPDpMvxyPb1sZL0&s=XfU9x4cpmYvfhChstzbEwFaWnC15nj-VWcWqSmPFJJ8&e=



All contributions are greatly appreciated!





-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Gas solenoid

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Just to report back as the results have me confused.  When we test the system 
when we noticed the problem, my recollection is that the panel switch was 
tripping whether the lighted switch was on or off.  I bought a new solenoid, 
replaced the old rusted mess that was in there and now all works fine.  What I 
can’t figure is how the solenoid could have been tripping the panel switch with 
the lighted off.  The most likely explanation is that I did the test wrong or 
did not remember the result correctly.  That only happens about 10 times a day, 
so quite possible.  Dave

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 9:06 AM, Bruce Whitmore  wrote:
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> The lighted switch under the sink turns on/off the solenoid.  So, you need 
> power to it from your panel switch, and you need the switch on to allow the 
> solenoid to turn on the whole system.  Interesting that it keeps clicking off 
> sounds like a short.  
> 
> You might want to turn off the switch under the sink and see if that keeps 
> the circuit breaker from tripping.  
> 
> Thankfully the solenoids are not only cheap, they're readily available - I 
> would try an RV store if there is one nearby.  Much cheaper than "marine".  
> 
> Good luck!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  
> Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 8:35 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Gas solenoid
> 
> Sitting in mystic seaport this morning could not heat water ( bummer) because 
> panel switch for propane kept clicking off. Solenoid replacement?  Looks 
> pretty decrepit. Also what does lighted on/off gas switch under sink do?  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I used corn oil last fall.
John on EnterpriseC&C 33 MK II 

On Thursday, September 28, 2017 7:35 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I like your system.  Makes sense to me!RickPaikea 37+Tacoma, WA

On Sep 28, 2017, at 3:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
I've tried tried "head lube", TefGel, wheel grease, couple other things.  
Nothing works as well as Superlube.

So, primarily, I use Superlube.  Pop the top off the Jabsco pump assembly, pull 
out the plunger, wipe some on the plunger o-ring and the shaft and re-install.  
In between SuperLube applications, I use olive oil.  I keep a small bottle of 
olive oil on the boat for cooking.  Each spring, I replace the bottle with a 
new one.  What's left in the old bottle becomes interim head lube.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 5:24 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The manufacturer 
sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper alternative.  I've used 
vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up the pump.  A friend uses motor 
oil but I worry about it not being compatible with the rubber parts.
Fred HazzardS/V FuryC&C 44Portland, Or
__ _

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!