Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleat and jibes

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

As discussion of your problem evolves it continues to baffle me.  I have a
similar garhauer block with cam cleat.  I've simply never had a problem
with mine.  Then again my cleat is at the end of a 12:1.  I think you're on
to it with the shock loading.  Typically cam cleats are only supposed to be
capable of hand loading (50ish pounds).  If there is any slack or play
during a gybe the shock load could probably be what is causing the
problem.  I have a cam cleat on my headsail furler and in heavy winds (when
the headsail is furled) it can come loose.  As I recall this typically
occurs during the brief period of time when the sail is luffing during a
tack.

So there it is.  During the gybes I typically pull the mainsheet in as
tight as possible and tend it to snub the impact as it comes over.  Barring
that, try a higher ratio purchase system to lessen the load felt on the cam
cleat.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Jun 4, 2018, 9:30 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a problem for the last two seasons with my main sheet handling
> system.  I have a double ended system, with a 5:1 on the traveler with a
> Garhauet triple block with cam cleat  then led forward to the mast and back
> to a winch on the cabin roof.  The advantage is that I can quickly adjust
> in lighter airs with the traveller system and winch the main in heavy airs
> at the other end.  It works fine except I had a problem that many times
> (not always) when I jibe, the main sheet pulled out of the cleat on the
> triple and the line ran out until it hit the stop knot.  It happens so fast
> that I really could not see why this was causing this.  It would happen
> even when the traveller car was stopped on both sides and there was loss of
> tension on the sheet prior to the jibe.  The only thing I could see that
> might be an issue is that the block has the cam cleat on the underside so
> perhaps it was “falling out” of the cam during the jibe.  We tried to make
> sure the sheet was not dangling down into the cabin, but it still seemed to
> happen.  As a last resort, I ordered a triple from Garhauer with the cam on
> the upper side and installed it recently.  I was in a race yesterday in
> heavy air, and it happened again with the new version of the block and
> cleat.  Does anyone have any insights on what is causing this and how to
> stop it?  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Similar install in our 33-2 as documented here:

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2018, at 2:08 PM, DON JONSSON  wrote:
> 
> We recently installed one on a 34.  We mounted it in the engine room where 
> other electronic items,  wires, etc. are and there is also a large ground 
> busbar there to make it easy to connect things in an orderly fashion.  The 
> house batteries are about 2 feet away under the quarter berth.
> 
> The starter battery is on the other side under the sink.  So the location 
> makes it easy to run the sensor wires to both banks.
> 
> We are happy with it.
> 
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, Victoria
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Jun 9, 2018, at 3:27 PM, Brad Crawford  wrote:
> 
> I recently purchased a Victron battery monitor and am wondering where others, 
> particularly 36' owners, have mounted their battery monitor shunts, if they 
> have one?
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Brad Crawford
> "Dora Pearl"
> C&C 36
> Seattle
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Thanks for the input Rick.
Today I added a double block at the bottom of the 2:1 and a single block at
the top on a second boom bale.  I'm not sure if that effectively makes it
4:1, 3:1 or not, but the  main was much easier to trim as we sailed today
in about 10-12 kts of breeze.  As suggested by both you and Josh, I added a
snap shackle at the traveler so I can move the boom to the rail when at the
mooring with guests...
I totally spaced out taking some pics today as I as testing the new
arrangement.  Will try to get some for more input.

Best,
Chuck


*Chuck Borge*
*508-642-3557*

On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 10:49 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck;
>
>
>
> The arrangement on my 38 is essentially the same as the arrangement on
> Josh’s boat, except that I have only a 3:1 purchase on the end of the sheet
> at the traveler instead of Josh’s 12:1 cascade system. The other end of the
> sheet runs forward under the boom, down to the deck, and then back to a
> clutch and a Barient 27 self-tailing winch on the cabin top.
>
>
>
> 3:1 is adequate for almost all conditions  but there is about 20’ or so of
> sheet to deal with. That goes into a sheet bag I’ve installed on the side
> of the cockpit well, and the mainsheet trimmer keeps it out from under foot
> when I have crew. If I’m single handing, the sheet is laid on the cockpit
> seats so I can reach it from behind the wheel.
>
>
>
> Remember: Reef early, reef often. The boat is faster when it is not
> overcanvassed.
>
>
>
> The Barient 27 is equivalent to a Harken 46 or Lewmar 48, so there is
> plenty of mechanical advantage available on those rare occasions when
> someone need to grunt the boom in against heavy winds.
>
>
>
> I also have a snap shackle connecting the block on the mainsheet to the
> traveler. I generally keep the boom clipped to the toe rail on the side
> away from the dock in order to keep the companionway unobstructed, and it
> has to be out of the cockpit when I put up the cockpit enclosure when
> cruising.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck
> Borge via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 9, 2018 3:00 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Chuck Borge 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up
>
>
>
> Thanks Josh, that was really helpful.
>
> I'm going to play around with some (or all) of your ideas, for sure!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
> *Chuck Borge*
>
> *508-642-3557*
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 9, 2018 at 2:25 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Chuck, I took a video for ya.
>
>
>
> https://youtu.be/VNUGnNAGsDo
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 MK II Manual

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

I have one to scan and upload for you and the cncphoto site.  

Bill Dakin
‘81 25-2

> On Jun 10, 2018, at 3:36 PM, Tod Baudais via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I just bought my first C&C! It’s a 1982 C&C 25 Mk II and I’m loving it so 
> far.  There’s still a few mysteries and I was wondering if anyone had a 
> manual for this boat. cncphotoalbum.com doesn’t seem to have the MK II 
> listed. Specifically right now I’m looking for how to rig the boom and 
> reefing lines but I’m sure other things will pop up too.
> 
> Thanks and I’m glad to be part of the club!
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List C&C 25 MK II Manual

[Tod Baudais via CnC-List]

I just bought my first C&C! It’s a 1982 C&C 25 Mk II and I’m loving it so far.  
There’s still a few mysteries and I was wondering if anyone had a manual for 
this boat. cncphotoalbum.com  doesn’t seem to have 
the MK II listed. Specifically right now I’m looking for how to rig the boom 
and reefing lines but I’m sure other things will pop up too.

Thanks and I’m glad to be part of the club!___

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Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleats & jibes

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Marek;In another post in the discussion about main sheet routing, I said that my main has a 3:1 at the traveler and a 46:1 at  the cabin top winch to which the other end of the sheet is lead. My last regular main sheet trimmer was over 72 years old (and had even more hearing loss than I do, hence the position just in front of me) and with good timing and communication he had no problems with the 3:1.  Once the main sheet was set, most of the adjustment was done on the traveler or with the 24:1 vang, and only rarely was there a need for the cabin top winch to grunt the boom in.In a previous iteration I had a 5:1 arrangement at the traveler end of the main sheet, but reduced to 3:1 because of all the line in the cockpit and the slower response time with the 5:1.Rick-Original Message-
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Jun 10, 2018 1:37 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleats & jibes














Rick,
 
If you have a 3:1 for the mainsheet, I really, really recommend a 3:1/6:1 arrangement that I use. It was one of the better upgrades I made. It has all benefits of 3:1 (especially, when you do a gybe - much less line to
 handle) and of 6:1 (much easier to trim, especially in heavy winds and close hauled), without the drawbacks of a simple 6:1.
 
The only problem is that Garhauer does not list this block in its catalog (I think it was originally created for one of their vang arrangements). But you can ask them directly.
 
(I posted about it a while back with the link to the picture:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4u0om487skpwoc3/20140830_160655.jpg?dl=0 )
 
Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON
 


From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of
Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2018 11:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com; 'David Knecht' 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Mainsheet cleats & jibes


 
BTW, I have a 3:1 arrangement on the end of the mainsheet at my bridge deck traveler, and 5:1 purchase for the Garhauer traveler.
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 





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Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

We recently installed one on a 34.  We mounted it in the engine room where 
other electronic items,  wires, etc. are and there is also a large ground 
busbar there to make it easy to connect things in an orderly fashion.  The 
house batteries are about 2 feet away under the quarter berth.

The starter battery is on the other side under the sink.  So the location makes 
it easy to run the sensor wires to both banks.

We are happy with it.

Don Jonsson
Andante, Victoria

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 9, 2018, at 3:27 PM, Brad Crawford  wrote:

I recently purchased a Victron battery monitor and am wondering where others, 
particularly 36' owners, have mounted their battery monitor shunts, if they 
have one?

Many thanks,

Brad Crawford
"Dora Pearl"
C&C 36
Seattle


Sent from my iPad



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Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleats & jibes

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Rick,

If you have a 3:1 for the mainsheet, I really, really recommend a 3:1/6:1 
arrangement that I use. It was one of the better upgrades I made. It has all 
benefits of 3:1 (especially, when you do a gybe - much less line to handle) and 
of 6:1 (much easier to trim, especially in heavy winds and close hauled), 
without the drawbacks of a simple 6:1.

The only problem is that Garhauer does not list this block in its catalog (I 
think it was originally created for one of their vang arrangements). But you 
can ask them directly.

(I posted about it a while back with the link to the picture: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4u0om487skpwoc3/20140830_160655.jpg?dl=0 )

Marek
1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2018 11:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com; 'David Knecht' 

Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Mainsheet cleats & jibes

BTW, I have a 3:1 arrangement on the end of the mainsheet at my bridge deck 
traveler, and 5:1 purchase for the Garhauer traveler.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC


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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

On my boat I have the foreguy (downhaul) attached to the end of the pole,
and run it to a padeye just aft of the forestay.  Rob is right about not
being able to pull the pole forward with the lazy guy.  If you trip the
pole while going DDW, you can fly the spinnaker with both sheets while
pulling the pole forward with the foreguy.  Then, while sitting or standing
between the forestay and the pulpit, attach the new guy to the pole, gybe
the main, raise the pole on the new tack and steer toward your new target.

You can have the foreguy attached to a bridle so that it pulls down from
the middle of the pole.  That make it easier to move the jib (genoa) to the
other side of the boat which is necessary if you gybe the chute after
dropping the jib.  Having the downhaul attached to the end of the pole
makes it available to grab so that you can use it to pull the pole forward,
but it's a little more work moving the jib to the other side of the boat.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 5:52 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I always pulled it down and towards me with the lazy guy
>
> Wrong, it is impossible do that with the lazy guy.on the 34R I always
> pulled it down and towards me with the downhaul which was close to me
> directly in front of the forestay as the downhaul was attached to the outer
> end of the pole.   On the 33 MKII, the pitman would release the topping
> lift and pull down on the downhaul which would swing the pole down and
> towards me.,,, ,downhaul was in the middle of the pole.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On 2018-06-08 6:13 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> Matt,
>> I worked foredeck racing for +30 years on boats of sizes from 24' to
>> 40'in my opinion, some boats the end for end is the way to go.other
>> boats the dip pole jybe is the way to go.some people feel the dip jybe
>> is too complicated, however, once you and your crew get the process
>> choreographed, it is actually simpler, easier and safer than an end-for-end
>> especially on a 36 footer that is mast head rigged.
>>
>> One tipmake sure the helmsman does not over-steer too quickly through
>> the jybeso, if the pole is too far foreward before the guy is
>> released/tripped we call it, , the jaw(s) are twisted on the guy and won't
>> release easily before the actual jybe, bring the pole back 45 deg or more
>> to make sure the trip of the pole goes smoothlythe jaw(s) won't be
>> twisted on the guy, it will drop easilyhave the pit man pull it
>> down or the foredeck person do it. I always pulled it down and towards me
>> with the lazy guy...and I stayed in front of the forestay looking
>> back..then have the helmsman steer until the chute is flying out
>> directly in front of the boat..attached the lazy guytighten it up
>> ...the jybe is made.now the helmsman can come up into the wind.The
>> big mistake I have found doing a dip pole jybe is the helmsman steers
>> through the jybe too quickly..the more you practice, the quicker and
>> more precise you get, especially in a heavier wind.as a foredeck
>> person, I would much rather do a dip pole jybe in a heavier wind than end
>> for end.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 -
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2018-06-08 3:36 PM, Matt Knighton via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>> Hey All,
>>> Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C&C 36.
>>>
>>> What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?
>>>
>>> I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?
>>>
>>> Many thanks,
>>>
>>> Matt
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
>>> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ&c=cl
>>> K7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmt
>>> uNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=MhwWrdPf_uuLKPSTazYCkbp0iXRlU3
>>> RkYm0ZN1XsB5E&s=tkUJYEBBBUQFIRe73EwH-nCzrgj54s2qwaTYVHdrYGk&e=
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://urldefense.proofpoint.
>> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ&c=cl
>> K7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmt
>> uNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=MhwWrdPf_uuLKPSTazYCkbp0iXRlU3
>> RkYm0ZN1XsB5E&s=tkUJYEBBBUQFIRe73EwH-nCzrgj54s2qwaTYVHdrYGk&e=
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://url

Stus-List Mainsheet cleats & jibes

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Dave;

 

I suspect that you've identified the cause in your comment below. Shock
loading as the boom hits the end of the swing following a gybe (According to
my copy of the International Marine Dictionary a "jibe" is a sudden or
uncontrolled shifting of the boom from side to side due to steering error or
sudden wind shift.) can pull the sheet out of a pretty stout cam cleat. Been
there, done that.

 

My setup has a Garhauer fiddle block on the traveler (with the cam cleat
jaws pointed down so the mainsheet trimmer has an easy and natural motion of
lifting the line to cleat it - and can step on the line to release under
heavy load). When gybing the normal practice is to pull the boom in near
center and then release and ease the sheet out to proper trim as we finish
the gybe.

 

When single handing, I can pull the sheet in from the helm before the turn
and ease after settling on the new course. When racing, there is a mainsheet
trimmer to do the adjusting of mainsheet and traveler during the turn. Since
I've started doing this I can't recall a sheet pulling loose unexpectedly.

 

BTW, I have a 3:1 arrangement on the end of the mainsheet at my bridge deck
traveler, and 5:1 purchase for the Garhauer traveler.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 9, 2018 11:34 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <  davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleat and jibes

 

>From what I have been reading from the list and elsewhere, my boom was
probably farther off center than optimal for a heavy weather jibe on the
most recent event, so I intend to be more careful in the future about how
far I sheet it in prior to the turn

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Chuck;

 

The arrangement on my 38 is essentially the same as the arrangement on Josh’s 
boat, except that I have only a 3:1 purchase on the end of the sheet at the 
traveler instead of Josh’s 12:1 cascade system. The other end of the sheet runs 
forward under the boom, down to the deck, and then back to a clutch and a 
Barient 27 self-tailing winch on the cabin top. 

 

3:1 is adequate for almost all conditions  but there is about 20’ or so of 
sheet to deal with. That goes into a sheet bag I’ve installed on the side of 
the cockpit well, and the mainsheet trimmer keeps it out from under foot when I 
have crew. If I’m single handing, the sheet is laid on the cockpit seats so I 
can reach it from behind the wheel. 

 

Remember: Reef early, reef often. The boat is faster when it is not 
overcanvassed.

 

The Barient 27 is equivalent to a Harken 46 or Lewmar 48, so there is plenty of 
mechanical advantage available on those rare occasions when someone need to 
grunt the boom in against heavy winds.

 

I also have a snap shackle connecting the block on the mainsheet to the 
traveler. I generally keep the boom clipped to the toe rail on the side away 
from the dock in order to keep the companionway unobstructed, and it has to be 
out of the cockpit when I put up the cockpit enclosure when cruising.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Borge 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 9, 2018 3:00 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Chuck Borge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

 

Thanks Josh, that was really helpful.

I'm going to play around with some (or all) of your ideas, for sure!

 

Cheers,

Chuck




 

Chuck Borge

508-642-3557

 

On Sat, Jun 9, 2018 at 2:25 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Chuck, I took a video for ya.

 

https://youtu.be/VNUGnNAGsDo

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[mark woehnker via CnC-List]

Regards,

Mark Woehnker

On Fri, Jun 8, 2018, 2:37 PM Matt Knighton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey All,
>
> Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C&C 36.
>
> What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?
>
> I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Matt
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[robert via CnC-List]

I always pulled it down and towards me with the lazy guy

Wrong, it is impossible do that with the lazy guy.on the 34R I 
always pulled it down and towards me with the downhaul which was close 
to me directly in front of the forestay as the downhaul was attached to 
the outer end of the pole.   On the 33 MKII, the pitman would release 
the topping lift and pull down on the downhaul which would swing the 
pole down and towards me.downhaul was in the middle of the pole.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-06-08 6:13 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Matt,
I worked foredeck racing for +30 years on boats of sizes from 24' to 
40'in my opinion, some boats the end for end is the way to 
go.other boats the dip pole jybe is the way to go.some people 
feel the dip jybe is too complicated, however, once you and your crew 
get the process choreographed, it is actually simpler, easier and 
safer than an end-for-end especially on a 36 footer that is mast head 
rigged.


One tipmake sure the helmsman does not over-steer too quickly 
through the jybeso, if the pole is too far foreward before the guy 
is released/tripped we call it, , the jaw(s) are twisted on the guy 
and won't release easily before the actual jybe, bring the pole back 
45 deg or more to make sure the trip of the pole goes smoothlythe 
jaw(s) won't be twisted on the guy, it will drop easilyhave 
the pit man pull it down or the foredeck person do it. I always pulled 
it down and towards me with the lazy guy...and I stayed in front 
of the forestay looking back..then have the helmsman steer until 
the chute is flying out directly in front of the boat..attached 
the lazy guytighten it up ...the jybe is made.now the helmsman 
can come up into the wind.    The big mistake I have found doing a dip 
pole jybe is the helmsman steers through the jybe too quickly..the 
more you practice, the quicker and more precise you get, especially in 
a heavier wind.as a foredeck person, I would much rather do a dip 
pole jybe in a heavier wind than end for end.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-06-08 3:36 PM, Matt Knighton via CnC-List wrote:

Hey All,
Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C&C 36.

What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?

I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?

Many thanks,

Matt

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