Re: Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement
We had luck with welding. Get the right rod - LLDPE I think it is. Practice a little with a heat gun and it turns out great. Bill - 1985 c 37 starfire On Sun, Jul 15, 2018 at 9:03 PM Brad Crawford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I discovered that my port side water tank has a 4” long hairline fracture > in the outer side wall. Looking through the archives I see that other > 1981 C 36 owners have had the same problem, so I am reaching out to see > if welding the polyethylene was successful or not, or was a new Kracor or > other manufacture tank ordered? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Brad Crawford > > C 36 > > “Dora Pearl” > > Seattle > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- William D. Hall, Ph.D. 617 620 9078 (c) wh...@alum.mit.edu ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Halyard Restrainer on a 35 footer
While I have the mast out, I'm doing this myself so looking for advice on which restrainer to buy. > On July 15, 2018 at 6:19 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > Depending on your rigger, it might be easier and less expensive to have > him add a low profile ‘bale’ or mast mounted small block to provide what you > need. > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app:http://mail.mobile.aol.com > > On Sunday, July 15, 2018, Chuck S via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi Guys, > > > > > > I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my > > mast and have a synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices. > > > > > > > > I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave. The fairlead is > > cheaper and has a smaller profile. The Harken product is bulkier but might > > chafe less. Which should I get? > > > > > > > > http://www.apsltd.com/schaefer-halyard-restrainer-large.html?fee=5=49391_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=Cj0KCQjwvqbaBRCOARIsAD9s1XDQsK2f4i46UwgDUXWMIx1n0PV5_pW63EqoKZr7eeikXey9cqTUamkaArfTEALw_wcB > > > > > > > > http://www.apsltd.com/halyard-restrainer-1.html?fee=5=21107_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYmeX2q2YpUCYj7Ktft3-HTSj34cx_-T9jSunxda7CobYDvAdW6ZoIhoCla8QAvD_BwE > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chuck > > Resolute > > 1990 C 34R > > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. > > Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list > > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement
I discovered that my port side water tank has a 4" long hairline fracture in the outer side wall. Looking through the archives I see that other 1981 C 36 owners have had the same problem, so I am reaching out to see if welding the polyethylene was successful or not, or was a new Kracor or other manufacture tank ordered? Thanks, Brad Crawford C 36 "Dora Pearl" Seattle ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List launch finally!
Congratulations! Thanks, Danny Original message From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List Date: 7/15/18 3:52 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: bushma...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List launch finally! I am happy to report that we finally launched last Friday, ( I know it was the 13th)...we stripped the bottom to bare fiberglass and put on 4 coats of barrier epoxy and two coats of antifouling...she looks great ...under water...! Richard s/v Bushmark 4; 1985 C 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: John Conklin via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: John Conklin Sent: Fri, Jul 13, 2018 1:41 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 37R Keel Shortening Advice? The keel on my 1982 - standard 37 was taken from 6’10” (originally fin keel) to 5’6” with bulb She sails like a dream. I can post pics but my message always get rejected :( shoot me email happy to send along John Conklin S/V Halcyon www.flirtingwithfire.net On Jul 13, 2018, at 1:10 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote: Hi Noah, It can be done. Too many details to list here, but this is a good start: https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/ Cheers, Russ Sweet 35mk-1 for sale on Vancouver Island, feel free to forward link SVP, http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445 At 09:58 AM 7/13/2018, you wrote: Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and will be using her as a cruiser instead of a racer. The 8'1" draw looks like it will cause me some grief with the sailing I want to do along the St. Lawrence River and onward. My plan is to shorten the keel. Does anyone have advice or guidance to offer? Many Thanks, Noah ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Virus-free. www.avg.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C5e2434cc7e224000d5f908d5e8e3a86c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636670986829463071=72c6EbPWrKztf0zfI15agNLgoj9xmoaMQ7kPd%2BLNlJg%3D=0 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Halyard Restrainer on a 35 footer
Depending on your rigger, it might be easier and less expensive to have him add a low profile ‘bale’ or mast mounted small block to provide what you need. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Sunday, July 15, 2018, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: Hi Guys, I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my mast and have a synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices. I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave. The fairlead is cheaper and has a smaller profile. The Harken product is bulkier but might chafe less. Which should I get? http://www.apsltd.com/schaefer-halyard-restrainer-large.html?fee=5=49391_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=Cj0KCQjwvqbaBRCOARIsAD9s1XDQsK2f4i46UwgDUXWMIx1n0PV5_pW63EqoKZr7eeikXey9cqTUamkaArfTEALw_wcB http://www.apsltd.com/halyard-restrainer-1.html?fee=5=21107_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYmeX2q2YpUCYj7Ktft3-HTSj34cx_-T9jSunxda7CobYDvAdW6ZoIhoCla8QAvD_BwE Chuck Resolute 1990 C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Halyard Restrainer on a 35 footer
My buddy and I install roller furlers. Go with the Harken. Dennis C. On Sun, Jul 15, 2018 at 2:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: > Hi Guys, > > > I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my mast and > have a synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices. > > > > I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave. The fairlead is cheaper > and has a smaller profile. The Harken product is bulkier but might chafe > less. Which should I get? > > > http://www.apsltd.com/schaefer-halyard-restrainer- > large.html?fee=5=49391_source=Google+Shopping& > utm_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=Cj0KCQjwvqbaBRCOARIsAD9s1XDQsK > 2f4i46UwgDUXWMIx1n0PV5_pW63EqoKZr7eeikXey9cqTUamkaArfTEALw_wcB > > > http://www.apsltd.com/halyard-restrainer-1.html?fee=5= > 21107_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_ > campaign=Product=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYmeX2q2YpUCYj7Ktft3- > HTSj34cx_-T9jSunxda7CobYDvAdW6ZoIhoCla8QAvD_BwE > > > > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List launch finally!
I am happy to report that we finally launched last Friday, ( I know it was the 13th)...we stripped the bottom to bare fiberglass and put on 4 coats of barrier epoxy and two coats of antifouling...she looks great ...under water...! Richard s/v Bushmark 4; 1985 C 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: John Conklin via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: John Conklin Sent: Fri, Jul 13, 2018 1:41 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 37R Keel Shortening Advice? The keel on my 1982 - standard 37 was taken from 6’10” (originally fin keel) to 5’6” with bulb She sails like a dream. I can post pics but my message always get rejected :( shoot me email happy to send along John Conklin S/V Halcyon www.flirtingwithfire.net On Jul 13, 2018, at 1:10 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote: Hi Noah, It can be done. Too many details to list here, but this is a good start: https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/ Cheers, Russ Sweet 35mk-1 for sale on Vancouver Island, feel free to forward link SVP, http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445 At 09:58 AM 7/13/2018, you wrote: Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and will be using her as a cruiser instead of a racer. The 8'1" draw looks like it will cause me some grief with the sailing I want to do along the St. Lawrence River and onward. My plan is to shorten the keel. Does anyone have advice or guidance to offer? Many Thanks, Noah ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Virus-free. www.avg.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C5e2434cc7e224000d5f908d5e8e3a86c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636670986829463071=72c6EbPWrKztf0zfI15agNLgoj9xmoaMQ7kPd%2BLNlJg%3D=0 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Halyard Restrainer on a 35 footer
Hi Guys, I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my mast and have a synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices. I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave. The fairlead is cheaper and has a smaller profile. The Harken product is bulkier but might chafe less. Which should I get? http://www.apsltd.com/schaefer-halyard-restrainer-large.html?fee=5=49391_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=Cj0KCQjwvqbaBRCOARIsAD9s1XDQsK2f4i46UwgDUXWMIx1n0PV5_pW63EqoKZr7eeikXey9cqTUamkaArfTEALw_wcB http://www.apsltd.com/halyard-restrainer-1.html?fee=5=21107_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYmeX2q2YpUCYj7Ktft3-HTSj34cx_-T9jSunxda7CobYDvAdW6ZoIhoCla8QAvD_BwE Chuck Resolute 1990 C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Gas consumption C with Atomic 4
I realize there is a substantial weight difference between a 35 and our old 27 MKIII, but theres also longer waterline length. We regularly used about 15 gallons over 12 straight hours motoring and motor sailing at 6.4 kts from Milwaukee. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List Date: 7/15/18 12:03 AM (GMT-06:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Russ & Melody Subject: Re: Stus-List Gas consumption C with Atomic 4 Hi Jay, Fuel estimate for Sweet when she had the A4 was 4 litres per hour at cruising speed. Speed range was 3 - 5.5 knots (depended on conditions) with a two blade fixed prop. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 07:29 AM 7/14/2018, you wrote: Hello colleagues Filled with gas for the Atomic 4 in Port Whitby Canada Day and sailed back to Toronto. Wind out of the West and tight timeline meant we had to motor against the wind and waves for 2.5 hr. That would be relatively âhardâ motoring at 4-5 knots. Since then Iâve motored about another 3/4hr for a total of 3.25 hours, again at about 4.5 knots. Filled with gas again the other day to measure gas consumption and got 7.9 litres per hour, or 1.8 gal per hour. Iâve got a 2-blade folding prop (which, by the way, make reversing difficult - in the sense that there is no quick stopping). Does that seem normal? Online research seems to go from 0.5 to 2-3 gal per hour. Anyone with an A4 on a C with a gas consumption comparison out there? thanks Jay Hackney Windblown Toronto ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Virus-free. www.avg.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Charging issues
Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again. Josh On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > 12.9 reading with charger off. It's a smart charger and will slow and > then stop charge as battery charges. It is sitting with charger attached > just reading voltage > > > > Thanks, > Danny > Original message > From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List > Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00) > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Josh Muckley > Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues > > 12.9v on or off the charger? That's too low if on the charger. Even the > smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v > > It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the > battery's appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7 the > charger is dumb and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery. > This extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils off electrolyte. > Under this condition the battery voltage may never get to 14.7 but it can > easily get to 12.7. It will quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when > the charger is removed. This may take a few hours to occur. If/When a > load is applied the voltage will drop dramatically and stabilize near > 10.6v. If this is the case then you need a new battery. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > > On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi Rick, >> Thank you for the insight. The start battery showed just 12.1 when I put >> it on the charger. I just went out and battery now shows full at 12.9 >> volts. >> >> It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries. This is one >> system I haven't dug into yet. I guess that's going to change... >> >> I think I need to find a diagram somewhere >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> Danny >> >> Original message >> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List >> Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00) >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: Rick Brass >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues >> >> Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the engine is >> running, the alternator is probably OK. >> >> >> >> When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to assume that >> the start battery will not start the engine? >> >> >> >> Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour capacity of the >> start battery, it will probably never get below 95% to 99% state of charge. >> (Unless, of course, you are using it to also power your house loads.) >> >> >> >> For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for about 30 >> seconds in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about 1.3% discharge on the >> 105AH deep cycle battery I use for starting. (And only for starting except >> in an emergency) >> >> >> >> So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in just a few >> minutes of engine run time, and the full output from the alternator then >> gets directed to the house bank if that is at a lower state of charge. If >> both are fully charged, the current flow just creates heat. >> >> >> >> Check your start battery with a volt meter and both engine and battery >> switch turned off. If you get 12.6 volts or more, everything is probably OK. >> >> >> >> If the start battery won’t start the motor, you probably need a new >> battery. >> >> >> >> Rick Brass >> >> Washington, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny >> Haughey via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 7:31 PM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Danny Haughey >> *Subject:* Stus-List Charging issues >> >> >> >> So my gauge shows 14amps while motoring but after a long motoring trip my >> starting battery and house batteries are not charging. The house batteries >> charge under shore power. >> >> >> >> I'm taking the starting battery home to throw on a charger to see if it >> will take a charge. If oin l I'm seeing the 14 amps can I assume the >> alternator is working? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Danny >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Charging issues
12.9 reading with charger off. It's a smart charger and will slow and then stop charge as battery charges. It is sitting with charger attached just reading voltage Thanks, Danny Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues 12.9v on or off the charger? That's too low if on the charger. Even the smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the battery's appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7 the charger is dumb and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery. This extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils off electrolyte. Under this condition the battery voltage may never get to 14.7 but it can easily get to 12.7. It will quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when the charger is removed. This may take a few hours to occur. If/When a load is applied the voltage will drop dramatically and stabilize near 10.6v. If this is the case then you need a new battery. Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote: Hi Rick, Thank you for the insight. The start battery showed just 12.1 when I put it on the charger. I just went out and battery now shows full at 12.9 volts. It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries. This is one system I haven't dug into yet. I guess that's going to change... I think I need to find a diagram somewhere Thanks, Danny Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the engine is running, the alternator is probably OK. When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to assume that the start battery will not start the engine? Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour capacity of the start battery, it will probably never get below 95% to 99% state of charge. (Unless, of course, you are using it to also power your house loads.) For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for about 30 seconds in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about 1.3% discharge on the 105AH deep cycle battery I use for starting. (And only for starting except in an emergency) So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in just a few minutes of engine run time, and the full output from the alternator then gets directed to the house bank if that is at a lower state of charge. If both are fully charged, the current flow just creates heat. Check your start battery with a volt meter and both engine and battery switch turned off. If you get 12.6 volts or more, everything is probably OK. If the start battery won’t start the motor, you probably need a new battery. Rick BrassWashington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 7:31 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Danny Haughey Subject: Stus-List Charging issues So my gauge shows 14amps while motoring but after a long motoring trip my starting battery and house batteries are not charging. The house batteries charge under shore power. I'm taking the starting battery home to throw on a charger to see if it will take a charge. If oin l I'm seeing the 14 amps can I assume the alternator is working? Thanks, Danny___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Charging issues
12.9v on or off the charger? That's too low if on the charger. Even the smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the battery's appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7 the charger is dumb and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery. This extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils off electrolyte. Under this condition the battery voltage may never get to 14.7 but it can easily get to 12.7. It will quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when the charger is removed. This may take a few hours to occur. If/When a load is applied the voltage will drop dramatically and stabilize near 10.6v. If this is the case then you need a new battery. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Rick, > Thank you for the insight. The start battery showed just 12.1 when I put > it on the charger. I just went out and battery now shows full at 12.9 > volts. > > It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries. This is one > system I haven't dug into yet. I guess that's going to change... > > I think I need to find a diagram somewhere > > > > Thanks, > Danny > > Original message > From: Rick Brass via CnC-List > Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Rick Brass > Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues > > Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the engine is > running, the alternator is probably OK. > > > > When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to assume that > the start battery will not start the engine? > > > > Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour capacity of the > start battery, it will probably never get below 95% to 99% state of charge. > (Unless, of course, you are using it to also power your house loads.) > > > > For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for about 30 > seconds in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about 1.3% discharge on the > 105AH deep cycle battery I use for starting. (And only for starting except > in an emergency) > > > > So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in just a few > minutes of engine run time, and the full output from the alternator then > gets directed to the house bank if that is at a lower state of charge. If > both are fully charged, the current flow just creates heat. > > > > Check your start battery with a volt meter and both engine and battery > switch turned off. If you get 12.6 volts or more, everything is probably OK. > > > > If the start battery won’t start the motor, you probably need a new > battery. > > > > Rick Brass > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny > Haughey via CnC-List > *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 7:31 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Danny Haughey > *Subject:* Stus-List Charging issues > > > > So my gauge shows 14amps while motoring but after a long motoring trip my > starting battery and house batteries are not charging. The house batteries > charge under shore power. > > > > I'm taking the starting battery home to throw on a charger to see if it > will take a charge. If oin l I'm seeing the 14 amps can I assume the > alternator is working? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > Danny > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Charging issues
Hi Rick, Thank you for the insight. The start battery showed just 12.1 when I put it on the charger. I just went out and battery now shows full at 12.9 volts. It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries. This is one system I haven't dug into yet. I guess that's going to change... I think I need to find a diagram somewhere Thanks, Danny Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the engine is running, the alternator is probably OK. When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to assume that the start battery will not start the engine? Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour capacity of the start battery, it will probably never get below 95% to 99% state of charge. (Unless, of course, you are using it to also power your house loads.) For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for about 30 seconds in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about 1.3% discharge on the 105AH deep cycle battery I use for starting. (And only for starting except in an emergency) So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in just a few minutes of engine run time, and the full output from the alternator then gets directed to the house bank if that is at a lower state of charge. If both are fully charged, the current flow just creates heat. Check your start battery with a volt meter and both engine and battery switch turned off. If you get 12.6 volts or more, everything is probably OK. If the start battery won’t start the motor, you probably need a new battery. Rick BrassWashington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 7:31 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Danny Haughey Subject: Stus-List Charging issues So my gauge shows 14amps while motoring but after a long motoring trip my starting battery and house batteries are not charging. The house batteries charge under shore power. I'm taking the starting battery home to throw on a charger to see if it will take a charge. If oin l I'm seeing the 14 amps can I assume the alternator is working? Thanks, Danny___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
