Re: Stus-List Fundraising time

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Sorry my last email was for Stu and not for the list. Please delete.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 15 oct. 2018 à 20:56, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Stu,

I just made an order on the website and was wondering if I can send you the 
money (54.50) by PayPal or e transfer? I would like to add 10$ as donation.

Thank you!

Bruno lachance

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 15 oct. 2018 à 20:04, Stu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Don’t forget that October is the fund-raising time for this list and the C 
Photo Album.  So far, some people have shown their appreciation am I am sure 
there are more that want to help.

Your help in defraying some of my expenses by contributing to the cause is 
greatly appreciated.  As long as I can keep my head above water, the list will 
stay active.

Thanks in advance
Stu

Checks, money orders, etc.  please make payable to:
Stu Murray
33 Langton Rd
London, ON, CA
N5V 2L9

PayPal --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

E-transfer (Canadian banks)  send to s...@cncphotoalbum.com



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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Fundraising time

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Stu,

I just made an order on the website and was wondering if I can send you the 
money (54.50) by PayPal or e transfer? I would like to add 10$ as donation.

Thank you!

Bruno lachance

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 15 oct. 2018 à 20:04, Stu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Don’t forget that October is the fund-raising time for this list and the C 
Photo Album.  So far, some people have shown their appreciation am I am sure 
there are more that want to help.

Your help in defraying some of my expenses by contributing to the cause is 
greatly appreciated.  As long as I can keep my head above water, the list will 
stay active.

Thanks in advance
Stu

Checks, money orders, etc.  please make payable to:
Stu Murray
33 Langton Rd
London, ON, CA
N5V 2L9

PayPal --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

E-transfer (Canadian banks)  send to s...@cncphotoalbum.com



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 Virus-free. 
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Fundraising time

[Stu via CnC-List]

Don’t forget that October is the fund-raising time for this list and the C 
Photo Album.  So far, some people have shown their appreciation am I am sure 
there are more that want to help.

Your help in defraying some of my expenses by contributing to the cause is 
greatly appreciated.  As long as I can keep my head above water, the list will 
stay active.

Thanks in advance
Stu

Checks, money orders, etc.  please make payable to:
Stu Murray
33 Langton Rd
London, ON, CA
N5V 2L9

PayPal --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

E-transfer (Canadian banks)  send to s...@cncphotoalbum.com



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

I looked into the harken systems and surprisingly, they were considerably more 
expensive though their winch prices are more than competitive!! 
I’ve had good luck with both companies :)


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Monday, October 15, 2018, 5:40 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Garhauer will copy the bolt locations onto a new track, free of charge (?) (at 
least it was free when I got mine).  I strongly second the Garhauer 
recommendation, Mine is working fine after more than 12 years.  Though I got 
the same traveler as the Catalina 36, so it does not work at the design limits. 

Garhauer is also heavier than Harken, but you have to have everything else 110% 
perfect for that to make a difference, in racing.

Leslie.
Phoenix C


On Sat, 10/13/18, Chris Graham via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Chris Graham" 
 Date: Saturday, October 13, 2018, 7:27 AM
 
 
 Oh wow!
 I’ll see if I can
 find that and take a look Chris 
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Saturday, October 13, 2018, 10:25 AM, Sam Salter via
 CnC-List  wrote:Not necessarily cheap, but Harken
 makes a track that has a longitudinal slot on the underside.
 It fits the head of the installation bolts so they can slide
 anywhere along the track. No filling and redrilling  - they
 can match the original bolt spacing - easy, quick
 install.
 sam
 On Oct 13, 2018, at 7:13 AM, Chris Graham via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 I need to first replace the main traveler system. Any
 suggestions with a system that won’t break the
 bank?
 Chris 
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:43 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List
 
 wrote:Roller furler - Profurl
 
 sam 
 On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Chris Graham via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 Gotcha! 
 Roller furling or
 hank on Sam?
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List
 
 wrote:Chris,
 I meant to say “I upgraded to New
 Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135”
 I might have got a little more speed
 from the folding prop, but the laminate Genoa sets much
 better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate
 main would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the
 “bubble” at the luff.
 
 sam
 On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter 
 wrote:
 
 Chris,
 When I bought the 26, It came with a
 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After a few years I
 upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135.
 Later I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from
 Evolution Sails in Toronto.Both upgrades improved
 performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the laminate
 sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a
 110 if I was doing it again.I still have the new
 Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one
 day. Best upgrades:New
 sailsFolding propSelf
 tailers (The folding prop might have given me
 more speed than the new sails)
 
 sam C 26  Liquorice Ghost
 Lake Alberta 
 
 On Oct
 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
        Thank you Sam!
 This 26' could be dropped in
 tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one
 stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap
 (don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring
 in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is
 minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.
 Thanks for the input. Main sail has
 two reef points which I am thankful for.
 Chris
 
        
        
            
                
                
                    On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM
 EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:
                
                
 
                
 
                I have a
 1977 C 26.I was looking for a 27 when I bought
 her.The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still
 competitive!Most (many?) 27’s have been raced
 hard and put away wet.That’s why I bought the
 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I
 looked at.The 26 is a tender boat!She
 does move quite well in light air.I tend to reef
 early; but she still moves well, even when
 reefed.I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be
 like in a big sea.I’ve had 7.4 knots on
 occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.She is
 a roomy boat which is nice!I have a Yanmar 2GM20F
 in mine with a Flexofold prop.I’ve done lots of
 upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars
 / ridged vang / etc., etc..I like the cockpit
 size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with
 the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.She’s a
 good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on
 the lake.Don’t buy a project boat - get one you
 can sail away!Upgrades are much more fun than
 repairs.I see too many project boats that never
 get in the water.
 
 sam C$C 26
  Liquorice Ghost Lake
 Alberta 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this 

Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Garhauer will copy the bolt locations onto a new track, free of charge (?) (at 
least it was free when I got mine).  I strongly second the Garhauer 
recommendation, Mine is working fine after more than 12 years.  Though I got 
the same traveler as the Catalina 36, so it does not work at the design limits. 

Garhauer is also heavier than Harken, but you have to have everything else 110% 
perfect for that to make a difference, in racing.

Leslie.
Phoenix C


On Sat, 10/13/18, Chris Graham via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Chris Graham" 
 Date: Saturday, October 13, 2018, 7:27 AM
 
 
 Oh wow!
 I’ll see if I can
 find that and take a look Chris 
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Saturday, October 13, 2018, 10:25 AM, Sam Salter via
 CnC-List  wrote:Not necessarily cheap, but Harken
 makes a track that has a longitudinal slot on the underside.
 It fits the head of the installation bolts so they can slide
 anywhere along the track. No filling and redrilling  - they
 can match the original bolt spacing - easy, quick
 install.
 sam
 On Oct 13, 2018, at 7:13 AM, Chris Graham via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 I need to first replace the main traveler system. Any
 suggestions with a system that won’t break the
 bank?
 Chris 
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:43 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List
 
 wrote:Roller furler - Profurl
 
 sam 
 On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Chris Graham via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 Gotcha! 
 Roller furling or
 hank on Sam?
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List
 
 wrote:Chris,
 I meant to say “I upgraded to New
 Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135”
 I might have got a little more speed
 from the folding prop, but the laminate Genoa sets much
 better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate
 main would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the
 “bubble” at the luff.
 
 sam
 On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter 
 wrote:
 
 Chris,
 When I bought the 26, It came with a
 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After a few years I
 upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135.
 Later I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from
 Evolution Sails in Toronto.Both upgrades improved
 performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the laminate
 sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a
 110 if I was doing it again.I still have the new
 Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one
 day. Best upgrades:New
 sailsFolding propSelf
 tailers (The folding prop might have given me
 more speed than the new sails)
 
 sam C 26  Liquorice Ghost
 Lake Alberta 
 
 On Oct
 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 Thank you Sam!
 This 26' could be dropped in
 tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one
 stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap
 (don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring
 in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is
 minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.
 Thanks for the input. Main sail has
 two reef points which I am thankful for.
 Chris
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM
 EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 I have a
 1977 C 26.I was looking for a 27 when I bought
 her.The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still
 competitive!Most (many?) 27’s have been raced
 hard and put away wet.That’s why I bought the
 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I
 looked at.The 26 is a tender boat!She
 does move quite well in light air.I tend to reef
 early; but she still moves well, even when
 reefed.I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be
 like in a big sea.I’ve had 7.4 knots on
 occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.She is
 a roomy boat which is nice!I have a Yanmar 2GM20F
 in mine with a Flexofold prop.I’ve done lots of
 upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars
 / ridged vang / etc., etc..I like the cockpit
 size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with
 the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.She’s a
 good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on
 the lake.Don’t buy a project boat - get one you
 can sail away!Upgrades are much more fun than
 repairs.I see too many project boats that never
 get in the water.
 
 sam C$C 26
  Liquorice Ghost Lake
 Alberta 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your 

Re: Stus-List Garhauer traveler

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Thanks Spencer!! I’ll call him this week Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Monday, October 15, 2018, 3:18 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Sent Guido my old traveler...he matched up all the screw holes...all fit 
perfectly.  I did have to get new machine screws cut down with my dremel 
cut-off wheel.  The car was modified to fit in the existing traveler track.
Spencer Johnson 84 LF 38 "ALEGRIA"RACINE, 
WI___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Garhauer traveler

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

Sent Guido my old traveler...he matched up all the screw holes...all fit 
perfectly.  I did have to get new machine screws cut down with my dremel 
cut-off wheel.  The car was modified to fit in the existing traveler track.
Spencer Johnson 84 LF 38 "ALEGRIA"RACINE, WI___

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Re: Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

“If connected properly, your cockpit port scupper hose should exit on the 
starboard side and the cockpit starboard scupper exit on the port side.  When 
the boat is heeled, they shouldn't fill up”
Originally, the scuppers were not cross-connected (I know that many believe 
they should), but this is not how they came from the factory. But even when the 
rail was in water the cockpit never flooded.

On 24 the mast is deck stepped, so no water comes down the mast.

If the cockpit water goes into the bilge, the chances are that the scupper 
hoses are leaking. If they leak under the cockpit, the water will eventually 
find its way into the bilge in the cabin.

The 24 does not have an automatic bilge pump. There was a manual one that had 
to be put in place (the OEM arrangement was that you replaced the companionway 
step with a board with the pump attached).

Marek
___

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Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

[robert via CnC-List]

On 2018-10-15 2:29 PM, Sid via CnC-List wrote:
"I notice that when I manually pump out the water in the keel that the 
water in the cockpit pipe it did not pump that out."


The two should be totally unrelatedyour bilge pump is or should be 
separate from the cockpit 'scuppers' or 'drains'.check to see that 
all those hoses are clear to allow water to move through them freely.

"1. is it normal to get water in the keel after it rains?"
If your mast is keel stepped, rain water will find its way down the 
mast.  Are there any other obvious places (hatches, deck fittings, 
windows, etc) where there could be leaking?


"2. anyone know how the water leaves the boat when it rains in the cockpit?"
Cockpit water should leave the boat through scupper hoses connected to 
thru hulls which usually have shut off valves.
"3. where to install a bilge pump that turn on automatically to pump 
out the water?"
In the bilge, if, your bilge is big enough to accept one and/or you can 
find one to fit your bilge.  Most have a float, when water begins to 
fill the bilge, will start the motor and pump out the water.

"4. how / where to run the bilge pump pipe to?"
A challenge to find a path ( hose to overboard) for the water to travel 
from the bilge pump overboardI don't know the 24 
'intimately'..maybe a another 24 owner can chime in here that 
already has been done this road.
I installed a pump in the bilge and connected it via hose and a Y joint 
into the head shower discharge which exits the forward starboard side 
just below the toe rail.
"5. does to cockpit water goes to the keel hole in the cabin? I am 
assuming no the way the pipe leave the hull below the cockpit.'
Answered before, no.cockpit water should never intentionally go to 
the bilge.  You are assuming wrong, the scupper hoses should be 
exiting the hull down low.  If connected properly, your cockpit port 
scupper hose should exit on the starboard side and the cockpit starboard 
scupper exit on the port side.  When the boat is heeled, they shouldn't 
fill up


Hope this is helpful.

ROb Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Sidney,
I can’t provide advice on all your questions as I’m not familiar with the 24 
but I can tell you that we always get water in the bilge after a heavy rain in 
our 33. I believe that most of this water comes down the mast, which is keel 
stepped. If your mast is stepped on deck you shouldn’t be getting much water 
there. And if you are you need to figure where the water is getting in. As for 
the cockpit, the water should drain overboard. In our case there are two valves 
which open and close these drains. If you have one or two valves they may be 
closed. If you have no valves, the drain hose most be clogged with debris. 
Regards and good luck,
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 15, 2018, at 10:29 AM, Sid via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Good Afternoon,
> 
> I have a 1980 C 24ft. Sailboat.
> We had some heavy rain a couple times last couple weeks. 
> 
> There is a board inside the cabin on the floor the covers the keel. It fills 
> up with water when it rains.
> The boat has a manual pump in cockpit close to the stern of the boat that I 
> use to pump out that water but it does not pump out the water in the holes in 
> the cockpit.
> There are two holes that the rain water goes in to in the cockpit. I can 
> access the space below the cockpit via the right locker. I can see a U shape 
> pipe the two holes connect to and that pipe goes inside the bottom of the 
> hull.  This past storm there was so much rain that the keel hole filled up 
> the floor had 1/8 inch of water on it.
> 
> I notice that when I manually pump out the water in the keel that the water 
> in the cockpit pipe it did not pump that out.
> 
> 1. is it normal to get water in the keel after it rains?
> 2. anyone know how the water leaves the boat when it rains in the cockpit?
> 3. where to install a bilge pump that turn on automatically to pump out the 
> water?
> 4. how / where to run the bilge pump pipe to?
> 5. does to cockpit water goes to the keel hole in the cabin? I am assuming no 
> the way the pipe leave the hull below the cockpit.
> 
> Thank You
> Sidney
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Sidney,

the cockpit scuppers (the two holes in the cockpit) should be connected to two 
through-hulls and should let the water from the cockpit to drain out. The 
scuppers are connected to the through-hulls with hoses (and there are valves at 
the through-hulls). Unless they have been changed these valves are standard 
gate valves – the wrong kind of valves for this purpose. Make sure that you 
have drainage from the scuppers to the outside and that you don’t have leaks in 
the hoses connecting the scuppers to the through-hulls.

Btw. the best way to check this is to climb down into the space below the 
cockpit. If you cannot do it, try going in head first, but make sure that there 
is someone to help you get out of there (without help, it might be tricky).

The original windows do leak. There are ways to reduce the amount of leak, but 
they do leak.

Then there is the bow hatch. Over time the gasket in it gets tired and there 
can be some leak. Though, that one would leak onto the V-berth cushion.

Marek
ex 1974 C 24

From: Sid via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2018 13:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sid
Subject: Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

Good Afternoon,

I have a 1980 C 24ft. Sailboat.
We had some heavy rain a couple times last couple weeks.

There is a board inside the cabin on the floor the covers the keel. It fills up 
with water when it rains.
The boat has a manual pump in cockpit close to the stern of the boat that I use 
to pump out that water but it does not pump out the water in the holes in the 
cockpit.
There are two holes that the rain water goes in to in the cockpit. I can access 
the space below the cockpit via the right locker. I can see a U shape pipe the 
two holes connect to and that pipe goes inside the bottom of the hull.  This 
past storm there was so much rain that the keel hole filled up the floor had 
1/8 inch of water on it.

I notice that when I manually pump out the water in the keel that the water in 
the cockpit pipe it did not pump that out.

1. is it normal to get water in the keel after it rains?
2. anyone know how the water leaves the boat when it rains in the cockpit?
3. where to install a bilge pump that turn on automatically to pump out the 
water?
4. how / where to run the bilge pump pipe to?
5. does to cockpit water goes to the keel hole in the cabin? I am assuming no 
the way the pipe leave the hull below the cockpit.

Thank You
Sidney

___

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Re: Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

The water in the bilge and the water in the cockpit are two unrelated problems. 
 A bilge pump pumps water out of the bilge only.  Usually, the water in the 
cockpit drains overboard through scuppers.  It is a bad idea to allow the 
cockpit to drain into the bilge.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 15, 2018, at 1:29 PM, Sid via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Good Afternoon,
> 
> I have a 1980 C 24ft. Sailboat.
> We had some heavy rain a couple times last couple weeks. 
> 
> There is a board inside the cabin on the floor the covers the keel. It fills 
> up with water when it rains.
> The boat has a manual pump in cockpit close to the stern of the boat that I 
> use to pump out that water but it does not pump out the water in the holes in 
> the cockpit.
> There are two holes that the rain water goes in to in the cockpit. I can 
> access the space below the cockpit via the right locker. I can see a U shape 
> pipe the two holes connect to and that pipe goes inside the bottom of the 
> hull.  This past storm there was so much rain that the keel hole filled up 
> the floor had 1/8 inch of water on it.
> 
> I notice that when I manually pump out the water in the keel that the water 
> in the cockpit pipe it did not pump that out.
> 
> 1. is it normal to get water in the keel after it rains?
> 2. anyone know how the water leaves the boat when it rains in the cockpit?
> 3. where to install a bilge pump that turn on automatically to pump out the 
> water?
> 4. how / where to run the bilge pump pipe to?
> 5. does to cockpit water goes to the keel hole in the cabin? I am assuming no 
> the way the pipe leave the hull below the cockpit.
> 
> Thank You
> Sidney
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

[Sid via CnC-List]

Good Afternoon,
I have a 1980 C 24ft. Sailboat.We had some heavy rain a couple times last 
couple weeks. 

There is a board inside the cabin on the floor the covers the keel. It fills up 
with water when it rains.The boat has a manual pump in cockpit close to the 
stern of the boat that I use to pump out that water but it does not pump out 
the water in the holes in the cockpit.There are two holes that the rain water 
goes in to in the cockpit. I can access the space below the cockpit via the 
right locker. I can see a U shape pipe the two holes connect to and that pipe 
goes inside the bottom of the hull.  This past storm there was so much rain 
that the keel hole filled up the floor had 1/8 inch of water on it.

I notice that when I manually pump out the water in the keel that the water in 
the cockpit pipe it did not pump that out.
1. is it normal to get water in the keel after it rains?2. anyone know how the 
water leaves the boat when it rains in the cockpit?3. where to install a bilge 
pump that turn on automatically to pump out the water?4. how / where to run the 
bilge pump pipe to?5. does to cockpit water goes to the keel hole in the cabin? 
I am assuming no the way the pipe leave the hull below the cockpit.
Thank YouSidney

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Re: Stus-List Recommended 33-2 deck fill replacement

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Yes, I do like those.

Btw - That fitting is available from forespar in California - well kept secret!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 15, 2018, at 11:57 AM, Bradley Lumgair  wrote:
> 
> Quick search found these with winch socket caps, kinda cool! Looking at 
> replacing my waste as I don’t have the right thread for that fitting for 
> suck-out
> http://www.vetusmarine.com/store/c/564-Deck-Entries-With-Winch-Handle-Socket.aspx
> Brad 
> Pulse C 33/2
> Lake Huron
> 
> Anything worth doing requires sails
> ~(\_~
> 
> On Oct 13, 2018, at 19:12,   wrote:
> 
>> Doing some work on Windstar, and while I’m at it I will probably replace the 
>> sun-beaten original water deck fill.   Any recommendations as to a 
>> high-quality replacement?Thanks!
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Recommended 33-2 deck fill replacement

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


 Personally, I like our deck fill caps which have hinged, flip-up tab which 
makes it easy to open the caps by hand, or at worst with a pair of pliers.  

One looks like this:  Replacement Stainless Flip Tab Deck Fill Cap
Another, which looks like what we have can be found here:  Five Oceans 
Stainless Steel Keyless Water Deck Fill w/Chain FO-2452

  
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Five Oceans Stainless Steel Keyless Water Deck Fill w/Chain FO-2452
 This high quality stainless deck fills that do not require a key are corrosion 
resistance making it one of the k...  |   |

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Replacement Stainless Flip Tab Deck Fill Cap
 IMPORTANT: We cannot guarantee that these deck fill caps will fit other 
manufacturer's deck fills. These rep...  |  |

  |

 
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Re: Stus-List Recommended 33-2 deck fill replacement

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Quick search found these with winch socket caps, kinda cool! Looking at 
replacing my waste as I don’t have the right thread for that fitting for 
suck-out
http://www.vetusmarine.com/store/c/564-Deck-Entries-With-Winch-Handle-Socket.aspx
Brad
Pulse C 33/2
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails
~(\_~

On Oct 13, 2018, at 19:12, mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>> 
mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Doing some work on Windstar, and while I’m at it I will probably replace the 
sun-beaten original water deck fill.   Any recommendations as to a high-quality 
replacement?Thanks!

Dave

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Recommended 33-2 deck fill replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I don’t know the brand, but Aries came with ones that are opened with a winch 
handle rather than a key slot.  I really like them.  I always have winch 
handles handy and the extra power opens sticky ones.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 13, 2018, at 7:12 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Doing some work on Windstar, and while I’m at it I will probably replace the 
> sun-beaten original water deck fill.   Any recommendations as to a 
> high-quality replacement?Thanks!
> 
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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