Re: Stus-List Ultrasonic sailing instruments?

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

I installed an ultrasonic anemometer on Maggie about 4/5 years ago. It’s been 
working flawlessly. The sensor was made for commercial Wind Turbines and even 
has a built in heater to prevent icing. I found it on eBay. Had to build a 
little interface circuit to NMEA 0183...

Cheers,
Aaron
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1
Annapolis, MD


Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2019 9:44 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrasonic sailing instruments?

Bill,

The zeus actually has a NMEA 0183 input.  It's not about using the 0183 signal 
so much as it is about generally upgrading the entire system and ensuring 
accuracy and reliability of the sensors.  The ultrasonic wind instruments are 
already n2k and are naturally bird proof.  Some articles have stated that the 
ultrasonic anemometers are not fast enough responding.  Conversely they are not 
susceptible to the effects of heeling.

Definitely keep me posted about your experience with the electromagnetic water 
speed!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Jun 19, 2019, 2:47 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You don’t even need a bale. You can run the reefing line (at the aft cringle) 
from the end of the boom to the cringle and then back to the boom. Tie the 
reefing line to the boom (preferably, just a little bit aft of where the 
cringle wold be when reefed) and you are set. Btw. this works especially well 
with a single line arrangement.

Another idea, I learned from an old “salty” - once you reefed, always put an 
extra length of a line around the boom through that cringle. This is just for 
safety; if for any reason, the reefing line fails, you won’t rip the sail. And 
you can have the (reefed) clew as close to the boom as you want.

Marek

1994 #122 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: 19 June, 2019 16:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim


I never liked that the aft cringle in the main for the reef was originally 
rigged straight to the aft boom end at a non-zero angle to the boom--was always 
afraid I would rip the cringle out if I used a winch on the reef line plus it 
did not look correct.

Got rid of the problem by mounting another a pair of bales on the opposite 
sides of the boom slightly aft of the aft cringle so that when it was pulled 
down (mostly), I could get most of the reefed sail's new 'foot' down to the 
boom. This has worked the few times I have needed it plus the resulting reefed 
main has a reasonable and flat shape near the boom.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

There are various schools of thought about the strainer like that. Especially, 
if you sail in an area where there might be a lot of growth on the bottom (of 
the boat). These strainers are, unfortunately, known to get plugged 
substantially, by e.g. barnacles and other living creatures.

I have a problem like this, as well, and I am afraid that the only solution is 
to clean (or check) the strainer often enough. Afterall, it is doing its job.

The good news is that the water pump is doing a good job - the impeller is in a 
good shape (or you would not have enough suction).

Btw. the strainer baskets come in different mesh sizes. If you switch to a 
larger size, the strainer would let more stuff through. It would not plug up as 
easily, but that small stuff would flow through the cooling system. It is a 
compromise.

Marek

1994 #122 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: 19 June, 2019 09:55
To: Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

It seems to me that an exterior like this might be advised:  
https://www.generalpropeller.com/00SS450?language=en¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCss7FYO6Aofrr_Yi-2yMHElDJl1UycIxkqnmE16gnYD56vbxua-0gAhoCyNYQAvD_BwE




Of course, how you put that in when the boat is in the water is another issue...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


On Wednesday, June 19, 2019, 9:48:57 AM EDT, Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Not really, although the west coast is quite abundant in kelp and sea weed.

marc.
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Ultrasonic sailing instruments?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bill,

The zeus actually has a NMEA 0183 input.  It's not about using the 0183
signal so much as it is about generally upgrading the entire system and
ensuring accuracy and reliability of the sensors.  The ultrasonic wind
instruments are already n2k and are naturally bird proof.  Some articles
have stated that the ultrasonic anemometers are not fast enough
responding.  Conversely they are not susceptible to the effects of heeling.

Definitely keep me posted about your experience with the electromagnetic
water speed!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Jun 19, 2019, 2:47 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just installed an Airmar 900DX+, (electromagnetic)  I can tell you what I
> think of it soon, hoping I actually get the boat moving to try it out in
> the near future. It has a NMEA2000 connector which should go right into
> your Zeus. So far I see depth and speed (-0-) , still looking for
> temperature. The setup is done over Bluetooth, so I may find it there.
>
> For your wind you might be able to add an H5000 Fastnet Interface to
> convert that to NMEA 200, and then be able to see that on your Zeus, I just
> added one last night, but there was (-0-) wind, so that too will be
> revealed in the fullness of time.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>  Erie, PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 18, 2019 11:59 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Stus-List Ultrasonic sailing instruments?
>
>
>
> All right folks,
>
>
>
> I'm giving more and more consideration to upgrading my sailing
> instruments.  I currently have a Data marine offshore 3500 nav link system
> that runs and integrates on a NMEA 0183 network.  The water speed wheel is
> old and worn and needs regular cleaning.  The temperature indicator has
> failed.  The anemometer is slow to respond and won't read below ~2kts.  All
> the displays are in various states of partial functionality.  Over the
> years I've been watching the ultrasonic wind speed senders and now I'm
> seeing more about electromagnetic and ultrasonic water speed senders.  I'm
> thinking/hoping to simply have them dump data onto the N2K bus and then
> have the instrument displays, chartplotter, and auto-helm pick up the data
> for interpretation and display.  I'm probably going to stick with B&G
> Triton displays and my chartplotter is already a B&G Zeus 3.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any experience with these new-ish technologies.  Pros?
> Cons?
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

In the mostly light airs of the NC Pamlico Sound (and probably the Chesapeake), 
I have little experience with reefing. OTOH, I do have a single reef point in 
my main sail and a single line reefing system via a reefing line led to a cabin 
top winch through a rope clutch. It goes thru the boom directly, no purchase 
system for it in the boom.  I never liked that the aft cringle in the main for 
the reef was originally rigged straight to the aft boom end at a non-zero angle 
to the boom--was always afraid I would rip the cringle out if I used a winch on 
the reef line plus it did not look correct. Got rid of the problem by mounting 
another a pair of bales on the opposite sides of the boom slightly aft of the 
aft cringle so that when it was pulled down (mostly), I could get most of the 
reefed sail's new 'foot' down to the boom. This has worked the few times I have 
needed it plus the resulting reefed main has a reasonable and flat shape near 
the boom. Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb.  -Original 
Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Wed, Jun 19, 2019 4:01 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

Randy, I agree with Bill.  I've never heard of anyone using both rings.  Years 
ago I too used to picture the rings coming down around both sides of the pack 
and hooking on each side.  As such, even after realizing that only one ring was 
possible I would still reserve the port ring for the port hook and vice versa.  
I described my difficulties with my sail maker and he said, "You're doing it 
wrong.  Have to tried crossing?  You know the port ring to the stbd horn?"  I 
was dumbfounded by the nonchalant nature and simplicity of the answer.  Low and 
behold the next reef was so much easier and cleaner looking.
David, I find that pulling in the reefing line while simultaneously lowering 
the halyard, combined with the helm maintaining the luffing of the sail, 
ensures that the sail doesn't ever have an opportunity to spill on the deck or 
foul in the lazy jacks.  Since my lines are led aft I have to run forward 
momentarily to hook the ring.  Taking up the reefing line early has given 
better luck keeping the sail from flogging the ring off the horn while I'm 
transitioning back from the mast to the cockpit.  For anyone with halyards at 
the mast this is probably not as valuable.  Even less valuable if the reef is 
at a different location than the halyard.
Shawn, I have a purchase system buried in my boom for the outhaul and the 1st 
reef.  Any type of single line reefing system will not work with this setup 
since the cringle will not pull with the same ratio as the clew.  I've also 
heard of added complications keeping mainsail foot tension since the with most 
single line systems the cringle is kind of allowed to "float" fore and aft.  
Additionally the added friction of a single line system can make shaking out 
the reef a little bit more challenging.

Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD 
On Wed, Jun 19, 2019, 2:34 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

Randy, I believe you are only supposed to use one ring at atime.  Depends on 
which tack you are on. Pretty simple fix, as you noted, justneed a little 1” 
webbing.  I have some if you need it. Bill ColemanErie PAFrom: 
CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy Stafford 
viaCnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2019 12:08 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim  I bought a new mainsail last 
year with two reef pointsincluding dogbones in the cringles.  And I bought a 
gooseneck pin withram's horns.  Problem is the dogbones aren’t long enough, so 
I can onlyhook one ring, and I have to remove the sail stop to let a slug out 
of thetrack to do so.  Easily fixed by my local sail repair guy after 
propermeasurement, but just a PITA.   Using the Cunningham with strong tackle 
/deck hardware seems like an efficient alternative.  My Cunningham just hasa 
cheek block and jam cleat on the mast - I’d prefer something beefier 
forreefing. Cheers,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C  30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO

On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:13 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote: I have a slightly different system for reefing.  I havea 4-1 downhaul 
with a stainless hook for attachment to the cringle and led backto the cockpit 
stopper.  I have the main halyard premarked for a heightthat allows me to move 
the hook from the normal downhaul position to the reefpoint cringle.    So I 
drop the main to the designated spot, move thehook, tighten the main halyard, 
then the downhaul, then the leech reefing lineand ready to go.  The position of 
the main halyard is much less criticalwith the hook because it does not tend to 
fall off the cringle like the dogbone rings fall off the horns.  With lazy 
jacks and a Mack Pack, I don’tbother to tie the main around the boom.  It is 
not much different in timeand effort than attaching the dog bones to 

Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Great thread, thanks all!

Josh,
I like the sound of the webbing and rings, and plan to buy some webbing to
make safety lines so will give this a try. Crossing also makes sense as it
should reduce the chance of the ring falling off the horn before you can
reach the halyard. I have only a purchase in the boom for the outhaul; the
reef points use external blocks. But I think I will try the webbing and
rings method first as it seems simpler and less likely to foul (and if it
does, it will be obvious to spot). My halyards are at the mast, so
executing the reef should be fairly easy.
I'm just waiting for the crazy winds here to abate so I can try it out.
Currently gusting to 30+ at my slip so I'm fiddling with stuff below
decks...


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 1:01 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Randy,
> I agree with Bill.  I've never heard of anyone using both rings.  Years
> ago I too used to picture the rings coming down around both sides of the
> pack and hooking on each side.  As such, even after realizing that only one
> ring was possible I would still reserve the port ring for the port hook and
> vice versa.  I described my difficulties with my sail maker and he said,
> "You're doing it wrong.  Have to tried crossing?  You know the port ring to
> the stbd horn?"  I was dumbfounded by the nonchalant nature and simplicity
> of the answer.  Low and behold the next reef was so much easier and cleaner
> looking.
>
> David,
> I find that pulling in the reefing line while simultaneously lowering the
> halyard, combined with the helm maintaining the luffing of the sail,
> ensures that the sail doesn't ever have an opportunity to spill on the deck
> or foul in the lazy jacks.  Since my lines are led aft I have to run
> forward momentarily to hook the ring.  Taking up the reefing line early has
> given better luck keeping the sail from flogging the ring off the horn
> while I'm transitioning back from the mast to the cockpit.  For anyone with
> halyards at the mast this is probably not as valuable.  Even less valuable
> if the reef is at a different location than the halyard.
>
> Shawn,
> I have a purchase system buried in my boom for the outhaul and the 1st
> reef.  Any type of single line reefing system will not work with this setup
> since the cringle will not pull with the same ratio as the clew.  I've also
> heard of added complications keeping mainsail foot tension since the with
> most single line systems the cringle is kind of allowed to "float" fore and
> aft.  Additionally the added friction of a single line system can make
> shaking out the reef a little bit more challenging.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Wed, Jun 19, 2019, 2:34 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Randy, I believe you are only supposed to use one ring at a time.
>> Depends on which tack you are on. Pretty simple fix, as you noted, just
>> need a little 1” webbing.  I have some if you need it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Erie PA
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy
>> Stafford via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 19, 2019 12:08 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list
>> *Cc:* Randy Stafford
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I bought a new mainsail last year with two reef points including dogbones
>> in the cringles.  And I bought a gooseneck pin with ram's horns.  Problem
>> is the dogbones aren’t long enough, so I can only hook one ring, and I have
>> to remove the sail stop to let a slug out of the track to do so.  Easily
>> fixed by my local sail repair guy after proper measurement, but just a
>> PITA.   Using the Cunningham with strong tackle / deck hardware seems like
>> an efficient alternative.  My Cunningham just has a cheek block and jam
>> cleat on the mast - I’d prefer something beefier for reefing.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Randy Stafford
>>
>> S/V Grenadine
>>
>> C&C  30-1 #7
>>
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:13 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a slightly different system for reefing.  I have a 4-1 downhaul
>> with a stainless hook for attachment to the cringle and led back to the
>> cockpit stopper.  I have the main halyard premarked for a height that
>> allows me to move the hook from the normal downhaul position to the reef
>> point cringle.So I drop the main to the designated spot, move the hook,
>> tighten the main halyard, then the downhaul, then the leech reefing line
>> and ready to go.  The position of the main halyard is much less critical
>> with the hook because it does not tend to fall off the cringle like the dog
>> bone rings fall off the horns.  With lazy jacks and a Mack Pack, I don’t
>> bother to tie the main around the boom.  It is not much different in time
>> and 

Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Randy,
I agree with Bill.  I've never heard of anyone using both rings.  Years ago
I too used to picture the rings coming down around both sides of the pack
and hooking on each side.  As such, even after realizing that only one ring
was possible I would still reserve the port ring for the port hook and vice
versa.  I described my difficulties with my sail maker and he said, "You're
doing it wrong.  Have to tried crossing?  You know the port ring to the
stbd horn?"  I was dumbfounded by the nonchalant nature and simplicity of
the answer.  Low and behold the next reef was so much easier and cleaner
looking.

David,
I find that pulling in the reefing line while simultaneously lowering the
halyard, combined with the helm maintaining the luffing of the sail,
ensures that the sail doesn't ever have an opportunity to spill on the deck
or foul in the lazy jacks.  Since my lines are led aft I have to run
forward momentarily to hook the ring.  Taking up the reefing line early has
given better luck keeping the sail from flogging the ring off the horn
while I'm transitioning back from the mast to the cockpit.  For anyone with
halyards at the mast this is probably not as valuable.  Even less valuable
if the reef is at a different location than the halyard.

Shawn,
I have a purchase system buried in my boom for the outhaul and the 1st
reef.  Any type of single line reefing system will not work with this setup
since the cringle will not pull with the same ratio as the clew.  I've also
heard of added complications keeping mainsail foot tension since the with
most single line systems the cringle is kind of allowed to "float" fore and
aft.  Additionally the added friction of a single line system can make
shaking out the reef a little bit more challenging.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, Jun 19, 2019, 2:34 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Randy, I believe you are only supposed to use one ring at a time.  Depends
> on which tack you are on. Pretty simple fix, as you noted, just need a
> little 1” webbing.  I have some if you need it.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Erie PA
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy
> Stafford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 19, 2019 12:08 PM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* Randy Stafford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim
>
>
>
>
>
> I bought a new mainsail last year with two reef points including dogbones
> in the cringles.  And I bought a gooseneck pin with ram's horns.  Problem
> is the dogbones aren’t long enough, so I can only hook one ring, and I have
> to remove the sail stop to let a slug out of the track to do so.  Easily
> fixed by my local sail repair guy after proper measurement, but just a
> PITA.   Using the Cunningham with strong tackle / deck hardware seems like
> an efficient alternative.  My Cunningham just has a cheek block and jam
> cleat on the mast - I’d prefer something beefier for reefing.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Randy Stafford
>
> S/V Grenadine
>
> C&C  30-1 #7
>
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
>
> On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:13 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I have a slightly different system for reefing.  I have a 4-1 downhaul
> with a stainless hook for attachment to the cringle and led back to the
> cockpit stopper.  I have the main halyard premarked for a height that
> allows me to move the hook from the normal downhaul position to the reef
> point cringle.So I drop the main to the designated spot, move the hook,
> tighten the main halyard, then the downhaul, then the leech reefing line
> and ready to go.  The position of the main halyard is much less critical
> with the hook because it does not tend to fall off the cringle like the dog
> bone rings fall off the horns.  With lazy jacks and a Mack Pack, I don’t
> bother to tie the main around the boom.  It is not much different in time
> and effort than attaching the dog bones to the horn, but since my main did
> not come with dog bones, this was a simple alternative.  Dave
>
>
>
> On Jun 19, 2019, at 9:54 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks, John, for this excellent write up of reefing - very helpful.
> Although we did go through reefing several times on our recent ISPA course,
> the boat was rigged a bit differently, and we also had a crew of 5, so
> things were much easier. The instructor's boat (a Formosa 43) used
> something similar to dog bones - just short pieces of rope - but they were
> very effective. He also added a rope wrapped around the mast and through
> the reefing cringle after the reef was in, and this is what I did when I
> had to reef on Monday. It seemed to work well, so I will measure space
> needed to clear the sail folds/slugs and make a short loop of rope to stay
> in the cringle for now. I like the strap and SS ring idea even better so I
> will look for the right size rings. And now is also a good time to mark the
> h

Re: Stus-List Ultrasonic sailing instruments?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Just installed an Airmar 900DX+, (electromagnetic)  I can tell you what I think 
of it soon, hoping I actually get the boat moving to try it out in the near 
future. It has a NMEA2000 connector which should go right into your Zeus. So 
far I see depth and speed (-0-) , still looking for temperature. The setup is 
done over Bluetooth, so I may find it there.

For your wind you might be able to add an H5000 Fastnet Interface to convert 
that to NMEA 200, and then be able to see that on your Zeus, I just added one 
last night, but there was (-0-) wind, so that too will be revealed in the 
fullness of time.

 

Bill Coleman

 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 11:59 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Ultrasonic sailing instruments?

 

All right folks, 

 

I'm giving more and more consideration to upgrading my sailing instruments.  I 
currently have a Data marine offshore 3500 nav link system that runs and 
integrates on a NMEA 0183 network.  The water speed wheel is old and worn and 
needs regular cleaning.  The temperature indicator has failed.  The anemometer 
is slow to respond and won't read below ~2kts.  All the displays are in various 
states of partial functionality.  Over the years I've been watching the 
ultrasonic wind speed senders and now I'm seeing more about electromagnetic and 
ultrasonic water speed senders.  I'm thinking/hoping to simply have them dump 
data onto the N2K bus and then have the instrument displays, chartplotter, and 
auto-helm pick up the data for interpretation and display.  I'm probably going 
to stick with B&G Triton displays and my chartplotter is already a B&G Zeus 3.

 

Does anyone have any experience with these new-ish technologies.  Pros?  Cons?

 

 

Thanks, 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I don't have a magic bullet, and working on the symptoms rather than the
problem is, I know, the wrong approach, but having said that . . .
I put a temp sensor alarm on my C&C 39 exhaust hose, and the only time it
ever went off it paid for itself, was in a weedy marina in Port Colbourn,
and clogged up my (Large) strainer . . ..

Regards,

Bill Coleman
Erie PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Allan
Hester via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2019 8:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Allan Hester
Subject: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up


Listers,


On a recent trip I found my sea strainer plugging up with sea weed very
often. The good news is its doing its job. The bad news is it plugs up far
too frequently.

It seems to happen most frequently when entering or leaving various harbours
here on the west coast.

On 2 occassions I noticed the temperature gauge climbing well above its
usual range between 170-180 F.

Its now to the point where I check the strainer before leaving harbour which
is a real pain.

Last season after leaving Nanaimo harbour it was plugged so badly it starved
the impellor pump to the point where the impellor and seals had to be
replaced. 

My Beta 25 has less than 170 hours on it and it runs beautifully. Perhaps
the issue is the strainer is too small or is an out dated model that can be
upgraded?

Does anybody have any ideas on what can be done? Perhaps a screen preventing
sea weed from entering the pickup hose?   

Thank you.

Al H.
Pacific Ranger
C&C 35 Mk3
Vancouver,BC  
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Randy, I believe you are only supposed to use one ring at a time.  Depends on 
which tack you are on. Pretty simple fix, as you noted, just need a little 1” 
webbing.  I have some if you need it.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2019 12:08 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

 

 

I bought a new mainsail last year with two reef points including dogbones in 
the cringles.  And I bought a gooseneck pin with ram's horns.  Problem is the 
dogbones aren’t long enough, so I can only hook one ring, and I have to remove 
the sail stop to let a slug out of the track to do so.  Easily fixed by my 
local sail repair guy after proper measurement, but just a PITA.   Using the 
Cunningham with strong tackle / deck hardware seems like an efficient 
alternative.  My Cunningham just has a cheek block and jam cleat on the mast - 
I’d prefer something beefier for reefing.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C&C  30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO





On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:13 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I have a slightly different system for reefing.  I have a 4-1 downhaul with a 
stainless hook for attachment to the cringle and led back to the cockpit 
stopper.  I have the main halyard premarked for a height that allows me to move 
the hook from the normal downhaul position to the reef point cringle.So I 
drop the main to the designated spot, move the hook, tighten the main halyard, 
then the downhaul, then the leech reefing line and ready to go.  The position 
of the main halyard is much less critical with the hook because it does not 
tend to fall off the cringle like the dog bone rings fall off the horns.  With 
lazy jacks and a Mack Pack, I don’t bother to tie the main around the boom.  It 
is not much different in time and effort than attaching the dog bones to the 
horn, but since my main did not come with dog bones, this was a simple 
alternative.  Dave





On Jun 19, 2019, at 9:54 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Thanks, John, for this excellent write up of reefing - very helpful. Although 
we did go through reefing several times on our recent ISPA course, the boat was 
rigged a bit differently, and we also had a crew of 5, so things were much 
easier. The instructor's boat (a Formosa 43) used something similar to dog 
bones - just short pieces of rope - but they were very effective. He also added 
a rope wrapped around the mast and through the reefing cringle after the reef 
was in, and this is what I did when I had to reef on Monday. It seemed to work 
well, so I will measure space needed to clear the sail folds/slugs and make a 
short loop of rope to stay in the cringle for now. I like the strap and SS ring 
idea even better so I will look for the right size rings. And now is also a 
good time to mark the halyard since the reef is still in place!

 

 

--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com

S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 3:46 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

If you stay around the list long enough you'll hear people refer to "dog bones" 
in the reef cringles.  They are short pieces nylon webbing passing through the 
sail grommet at each of the reef points along the sail luff.  On each end is a 
SS ring.  The rings keep the dog bones captive.  The length of the bones is 
designed so as to accommodate the stack height of the sail slugs in the mast - 
shorter bone for the first reef and progressively lo ger for the second and 
third.  A sail maker can make the bones for you the next time the sail is in 
for service.  Alternatively you can make them yourself out of some amsteel or 
other small stuff.  If you have a cunningham you can even arrange them so that 
one ring hooks on the horn and the other is positioned to be hooked by the 
cunningham.  When going for the reef I've found it very effective to turn off 
the wind but not down wind.  Maybe 60° to 90°.  Release the traveler all the 
way so that the main luffs straight back in line with the boom.  Simultaneously 
ease the halyard and take in the reefing line.  It helps to have the halyard 
premarked so you know that you have lowered it enough.  Once down, hook the dog 
bone.  Harden the halyard and then the reef line.  Remember to ease the 
mainsheet and vang too so that the boom can rise up to the new clew.  Once it 
is all hardened up then you can lash the sail as needed and come back up to the 
wind.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List C&C 29 MKII Main Sail & Genoa

[Roberto Suarez via CnC-List]

I have a C&C 29 MKII Main Sale in good to fair condition and an almost new
used very little 135% Genoa for sale, also some 150' and 250' of 5/8" and
3/4" 3 Strand Twisted Rope for sale.

For pictures and more information call or text me at my cell 305-785-8549
or email me at robe...@gmail.com.

Bob & Lily Suarez
S/V Angelina
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I bought a new mainsail last year with two reef points including dogbones in 
the cringles.  And I bought a gooseneck pin with ram's horns.  Problem is the 
dogbones aren’t long enough, so I can only hook one ring, and I have to remove 
the sail stop to let a slug out of the track to do so.  Easily fixed by my 
local sail repair guy after proper measurement, but just a PITA.   Using the 
Cunningham with strong tackle / deck hardware seems like an efficient 
alternative.  My Cunningham just has a cheek block and jam cleat on the mast - 
I’d prefer something beefier for reefing.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C  30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:13 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a slightly different system for reefing.  I have a 4-1 downhaul with a 
> stainless hook for attachment to the cringle and led back to the cockpit 
> stopper.  I have the main halyard premarked for a height that allows me to 
> move the hook from the normal downhaul position to the reef point cringle.
> So I drop the main to the designated spot, move the hook, tighten the main 
> halyard, then the downhaul, then the leech reefing line and ready to go.  The 
> position of the main halyard is much less critical with the hook because it 
> does not tend to fall off the cringle like the dog bone rings fall off the 
> horns.  With lazy jacks and a Mack Pack, I don’t bother to tie the main 
> around the boom.  It is not much different in time and effort than attaching 
> the dog bones to the horn, but since my main did not come with dog bones, 
> this was a simple alternative.  Dave
> 
>> On Jun 19, 2019, at 9:54 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks, John, for this excellent write up of reefing - very helpful. 
>> Although we did go through reefing several times on our recent ISPA course, 
>> the boat was rigged a bit differently, and we also had a crew of 5, so 
>> things were much easier. The instructor's boat (a Formosa 43) used something 
>> similar to dog bones - just short pieces of rope - but they were very 
>> effective. He also added a rope wrapped around the mast and through the 
>> reefing cringle after the reef was in, and this is what I did when I had to 
>> reef on Monday. It seemed to work well, so I will measure space needed to 
>> clear the sail folds/slugs and make a short loop of rope to stay in the 
>> cringle for now. I like the strap and SS ring idea even better so I will 
>> look for the right size rings. And now is also a good time to mark the 
>> halyard since the reef is still in place!
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 3:46 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> If you stay around the list long enough you'll hear people refer to "dog 
>> bones" in the reef cringles.  They are short pieces nylon webbing passing 
>> through the sail grommet at each of the reef points along the sail luff.  On 
>> each end is a SS ring.  The rings keep the dog bones captive.  The length of 
>> the bones is designed so as to accommodate the stack height of the sail 
>> slugs in the mast - shorter bone for the first reef and progressively lo ger 
>> for the second and third.  A sail maker can make the bones for you the next 
>> time the sail is in for service.  Alternatively you can make them yourself 
>> out of some amsteel or other small stuff.  If you have a cunningham you can 
>> even arrange them so that one ring hooks on the horn and the other is 
>> positioned to be hooked by the cunningham.  When going for the reef I've 
>> found it very effective to turn off the wind but not down wind.  Maybe 60° 
>> to 90°.  Release the traveler all the way so that the main luffs straight 
>> back in line with the boom.  Simultaneously ease the halyard and take in the 
>> reefing line.  It helps to have the halyard premarked so you know that you 
>> have lowered it enough.  Once down, hook the dog bone.  Harden the halyard 
>> and then the reef line.  Remember to ease the mainsheet and vang too so that 
>> the boom can rise up to the new clew.  Once it is all hardened up then you 
>> can lash the sail as needed and come back up to the wind.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bruce:
Cat’s Paw also has an external strainer, but made of bronze.  We have never had 
trouble with it - either during many years in the Chesapeake Bay or for the 
last 15 years here in Massachusetts in Buzzards Bay.  We haul every year, and I 
scrape off any barnacles etc at that time, often unscrewing the strainer from 
the hull to clean out between it and the cooling intake fitting.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> On Jun 19, 2019, at 10:04 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up
> Message-ID: <884e1071-c17b-a966-23cf-1aba775a0...@eastlink.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Bruce:
> 
> I have same thing except it is plastic...glued it on with 3M 5200 in 
> 2006 and it is still there and works finehave never had an issue 
> with with raw water intake fouling.
> 
> Rob Abbott


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have a slightly different system for reefing.  I have a 4-1 downhaul with a 
stainless hook for attachment to the cringle and led back to the cockpit 
stopper.  I have the main halyard premarked for a height that allows me to move 
the hook from the normal downhaul position to the reef point cringle.So I 
drop the main to the designated spot, move the hook, tighten the main halyard, 
then the downhaul, then the leech reefing line and ready to go.  The position 
of the main halyard is much less critical with the hook because it does not 
tend to fall off the cringle like the dog bone rings fall off the horns.  With 
lazy jacks and a Mack Pack, I don’t bother to tie the main around the boom.  It 
is not much different in time and effort than attaching the dog bones to the 
horn, but since my main did not come with dog bones, this was a simple 
alternative.  Dave

> On Jun 19, 2019, at 9:54 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, John, for this excellent write up of reefing - very helpful. Although 
> we did go through reefing several times on our recent ISPA course, the boat 
> was rigged a bit differently, and we also had a crew of 5, so things were 
> much easier. The instructor's boat (a Formosa 43) used something similar to 
> dog bones - just short pieces of rope - but they were very effective. He also 
> added a rope wrapped around the mast and through the reefing cringle after 
> the reef was in, and this is what I did when I had to reef on Monday. It 
> seemed to work well, so I will measure space needed to clear the sail 
> folds/slugs and make a short loop of rope to stay in the cringle for now. I 
> like the strap and SS ring idea even better so I will look for the right size 
> rings. And now is also a good time to mark the halyard since the reef is 
> still in place!
> 
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 3:46 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> If you stay around the list long enough you'll hear people refer to "dog 
> bones" in the reef cringles.  They are short pieces nylon webbing passing 
> through the sail grommet at each of the reef points along the sail luff.  On 
> each end is a SS ring.  The rings keep the dog bones captive.  The length of 
> the bones is designed so as to accommodate the stack height of the sail slugs 
> in the mast - shorter bone for the first reef and progressively lo ger for 
> the second and third.  A sail maker can make the bones for you the next time 
> the sail is in for service.  Alternatively you can make them yourself out of 
> some amsteel or other small stuff.  If you have a cunningham you can even 
> arrange them so that one ring hooks on the horn and the other is positioned 
> to be hooked by the cunningham.  When going for the reef I've found it very 
> effective to turn off the wind but not down wind.  Maybe 60° to 90°.  Release 
> the traveler all the way so that the main luffs straight back in line with 
> the boom.  Simultaneously ease the halyard and take in the reefing line.  It 
> helps to have the halyard premarked so you know that you have lowered it 
> enough.  Once down, hook the dog bone.  Harden the halyard and then the reef 
> line.  Remember to ease the mainsheet and vang too so that the boom can rise 
> up to the new clew.  Once it is all hardened up then you can lash the sail as 
> needed and come back up to the wind.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2019, 6:11 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> This sounds like an interesting tactic, so I will try it next time things 
> pick up. In this case, my wife was getting a bit uncomfortable, we were 
> already 8 hours into an 11 hour sail, and the weather forecast I was working 
> on was 12 hours old, so I couldn't be sure if it would get worse or not. It's 
> still blowing 30-35 today, although it didn't go over 40 last night. 
> Fortunately, 15-25 seems pretty common so it won't be long before we'll have 
> a chance to practice in more moderate winds and a plan in place.
> I also like Fred's idea of skipping the first reef point, so maybe I will try 
> that. I'd also like to see if I can switch to a single line reef without 
> adding too much complexity. The rams horns are small an not very effective, 
> so I ended up just lashing the reef point with a line at the gooseneck. 
> 
> I was actually quite surprised how much control I had with just one reef on 
> the main, but that could be due to keeping the engine in gear (I wasn't 
> taking any chances as we had to transit several tricky channels with lots of 
> current), and to my shorter footed main, which is about 16" short of the boom 
> end when unreefed. I suppose it may have come from another boat; the sail and

Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[robert via CnC-List]

Bruce:

I have same thing except it is plastic...glued it on with 3M 5200 in 
2006 and it is still there and works finehave never had an issue 
with with raw water intake fouling.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.









Of course, how you put that in when the boat is in the water is 
another issue...


Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


On Wednesday, June 19, 2019, 9:48:57 AM EDT, Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Not really, although the west coast is quite abundant in kelp and sea 
weed.


marc.

On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 6:40 AM Richard Bush > wrote:


Are you guys going through an especially muddy area? Or maybe an
area where there is heavy vegetation growth?

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; in flood mode...
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane

,
Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Marc Boyd via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Marc Boyd mailto:marcboy...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Wed, Jun 19, 2019 9:09 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

I'd be interested in a fix to, I'm on he West Coast, just a little
up the coast from you (Parksville) and mine plugs up every time we
motor out and back. C&C 30.

marc.

On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 5:40 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,


On a recent trip I found my sea strainer plugging up with sea
weed very often. The good news is its doing its job. The bad
news is it plugs up far too frequently.

It seems to happen most frequently when entering or leaving
various harbours here on the west coast.

On 2 occassions I noticed the temperature gauge climbing well
above its usual range between 170-180 F.

Its now to the point where I check the strainer before leaving
harbour which is a real pain.

Last season after leaving Nanaimo harbour it was plugged so
badly it starved the impellor pump to the point where the
impellor and seals had to be replaced.

My Beta 25 has less than 170 hours on it and it runs
beautifully. Perhaps the issue is the strainer is too small or
is an out dated model that can be upgraded?

Does anybody have any ideas on what can be done? Perhaps a
screen preventing sea weed from entering the pickup hose?

Thank you.

Al H.
Pacific Ranger
C&C 35 Mk3
Vancouver,BC
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution
-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

-- 
marc.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

--
marc.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

It seems to me that an exterior like this might be advised:  
https://www.generalpropeller.com/00SS450?language=en¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCss7FYO6Aofrr_Yi-2yMHElDJl1UycIxkqnmE16gnYD56vbxua-0gAhoCyNYQAvD_BwE

| 
| 
| 
| $15.32 |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Bronze Scoop Strainer 00SS450

Outside Width: 3.0
 |

 |

 |




Of course, how you put that in when the boat is in the water is another 
issue... 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

On Wednesday, June 19, 2019, 9:48:57 AM EDT, Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Not really, although the west coast is quite abundant in kelp and sea weed.
marc.
On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 6:40 AM Richard Bush  wrote:

 Are you guys going through an especially muddy area? Or maybe an area where 
there is heavy vegetation growth?  
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; in flood mode...
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Marc Boyd 
Sent: Wed, Jun 19, 2019 9:09 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

I'd be interested in a fix to, I'm on he West Coast, just a little up the coast 
from you (Parksville) and mine plugs up every time we motor out and back. C&C 
30.
marc.
On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 5:40 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Listers,


On a recent trip I found my sea strainer plugging up with sea weed very often. 
The good news is its doing its job. The bad news is it plugs up far too 
frequently.

It seems to happen most frequently when entering or leaving various harbours 
here on the west coast.

On 2 occassions I noticed the temperature gauge climbing well above its usual 
range between 170-180 F.

Its now to the point where I check the strainer before leaving harbour which is 
a real pain.

Last season after leaving Nanaimo harbour it was plugged so badly it starved 
the impellor pump to the point where the impellor and seals had to be replaced. 

My Beta 25 has less than 170 hours on it and it runs beautifully. Perhaps the 
issue is the strainer is too small or is an out dated model that can be 
upgraded?

Does anybody have any ideas on what can be done? Perhaps a screen preventing 
sea weed from entering the pickup hose?   

Thank you.

Al H.
Pacific Ranger
C&C 35 Mk3
Vancouver,BC  
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


-- 
marc.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


-- 
marc.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks, John, for this excellent write up of reefing - very helpful.
Although we did go through reefing several times on our recent ISPA course,
the boat was rigged a bit differently, and we also had a crew of 5, so
things were much easier. The instructor's boat (a Formosa 43) used
something similar to dog bones - just short pieces of rope - but they were
very effective. He also added a rope wrapped around the mast and through
the reefing cringle after the reef was in, and this is what I did when I
had to reef on Monday. It seemed to work well, so I will measure space
needed to clear the sail folds/slugs and make a short loop of rope to stay
in the cringle for now. I like the strap and SS ring idea even better so I
will look for the right size rings. And now is also a good time to mark the
halyard since the reef is still in place!


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 3:46 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you stay around the list long enough you'll hear people refer to "dog
> bones" in the reef cringles.  They are short pieces nylon webbing passing
> through the sail grommet at each of the reef points along the sail luff.
> On each end is a SS ring.  The rings keep the dog bones captive.  The
> length of the bones is designed so as to accommodate the stack height of
> the sail slugs in the mast - shorter bone for the first reef and
> progressively lo ger for the second and third.  A sail maker can make the
> bones for you the next time the sail is in for service.  Alternatively you
> can make them yourself out of some amsteel or other small stuff.  If you
> have a cunningham you can even arrange them so that one ring hooks on the
> horn and the other is positioned to be hooked by the cunningham.  When
> going for the reef I've found it very effective to turn off the wind but
> not down wind.  Maybe 60° to 90°.  Release the traveler all the way so that
> the main luffs straight back in line with the boom.  Simultaneously ease
> the halyard and take in the reefing line.  It helps to have the halyard
> premarked so you know that you have lowered it enough.  Once down, hook the
> dog bone.  Harden the halyard and then the reef line.  Remember to ease the
> mainsheet and vang too so that the boom can rise up to the new clew.  Once
> it is all hardened up then you can lash the sail as needed and come back up
> to the wind.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2019, 6:11 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> This sounds like an interesting tactic, so I will try it next time things
>> pick up. In this case, my wife was getting a bit uncomfortable, we were
>> already 8 hours into an 11 hour sail, and the weather forecast I was
>> working on was 12 hours old, so I couldn't be sure if it would get worse or
>> not. It's still blowing 30-35 today, although it didn't go over 40 last
>> night. Fortunately, 15-25 seems pretty common so it won't be long before
>> we'll have a chance to practice in more moderate winds and a plan in place.
>> I also like Fred's idea of skipping the first reef point, so maybe I will
>> try that. I'd also like to see if I can switch to a single line reef
>> without adding too much complexity. The rams horns are small an not very
>> effective, so I ended up just lashing the reef point with a line at the
>> gooseneck.
>>
>> I was actually quite surprised how much control I had with just one reef
>> on the main, but that could be due to keeping the engine in gear (I wasn't
>> taking any chances as we had to transit several tricky channels with lots
>> of current), and to my shorter footed main, which is about 16" short of the
>> boom end when unreefed. I suppose it may have come from another boat; the
>> sail and cover are made by Lee Sails.
>>
>> Back to the boat tomorrow to try a few things... thanks!
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 1:42 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> When it would pipe up around 20, I would feather the main in the lee of
>>> the jib, and drop it, the lazy jacks would hold it pretty much in place,
>>> get the sail ties on and keep going.  That is if you have a 130 or better –
>>>
>>> I have won races doing that.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Coleman
>>>
>>> Erie PA
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Marek
>>> Dziedzic via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:48 PM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> +1 on that
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Marek
>>>
>>> 1994 C270 Legato
>>> Ottawa, ON
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Frederick G Street via CnC-List
>>>
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 18, 2019 14:37
>>>
>>> *To:* 

Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Marc Boyd via CnC-List]

Not really, although the west coast is quite abundant in kelp and sea weed.

marc.

On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 6:40 AM Richard Bush  wrote:

> Are you guys going through an especially muddy area? Or maybe an area
> where there is heavy vegetation growth?
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; in flood mode...
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane
> ,
> Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Marc Boyd 
> Sent: Wed, Jun 19, 2019 9:09 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up
>
> I'd be interested in a fix to, I'm on he West Coast, just a little up the
> coast from you (Parksville) and mine plugs up every time we motor out and
> back. C&C 30.
>
> marc.
>
> On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 5:40 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
> On a recent trip I found my sea strainer plugging up with sea weed very
> often. The good news is its doing its job. The bad news is it plugs up far
> too frequently.
>
> It seems to happen most frequently when entering or leaving various
> harbours here on the west coast.
>
> On 2 occassions I noticed the temperature gauge climbing well above its
> usual range between 170-180 F.
>
> Its now to the point where I check the strainer before leaving harbour
> which is a real pain.
>
> Last season after leaving Nanaimo harbour it was plugged so badly it
> starved the impellor pump to the point where the impellor and seals had to
> be replaced.
>
> My Beta 25 has less than 170 hours on it and it runs beautifully. Perhaps
> the issue is the strainer is too small or is an out dated model that can be
> upgraded?
>
> Does anybody have any ideas on what can be done? Perhaps a screen
> preventing sea weed from entering the pickup hose?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Al H.
> Pacific Ranger
> C&C 35 Mk3
> Vancouver,BC
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
> marc.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
marc.
___

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Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Are you guys going through an especially muddy area? Or maybe an area where 
there is heavy vegetation growth?  
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; in flood mode...
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Marc Boyd 
Sent: Wed, Jun 19, 2019 9:09 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

I'd be interested in a fix to, I'm on he West Coast, just a little up the coast 
from you (Parksville) and mine plugs up every time we motor out and back. C&C 
30.
marc.
On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 5:40 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Listers,


On a recent trip I found my sea strainer plugging up with sea weed very often. 
The good news is its doing its job. The bad news is it plugs up far too 
frequently.

It seems to happen most frequently when entering or leaving various harbours 
here on the west coast.

On 2 occassions I noticed the temperature gauge climbing well above its usual 
range between 170-180 F.

Its now to the point where I check the strainer before leaving harbour which is 
a real pain.

Last season after leaving Nanaimo harbour it was plugged so badly it starved 
the impellor pump to the point where the impellor and seals had to be replaced. 

My Beta 25 has less than 170 hours on it and it runs beautifully. Perhaps the 
issue is the strainer is too small or is an out dated model that can be 
upgraded?

Does anybody have any ideas on what can be done? Perhaps a screen preventing 
sea weed from entering the pickup hose?   

Thank you.

Al H.
Pacific Ranger
C&C 35 Mk3
Vancouver,BC  
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


-- 
marc.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Marc Boyd via CnC-List]

I'd be interested in a fix to, I'm on he West Coast, just a little up the
coast from you (Parksville) and mine plugs up every time we motor out and
back. C&C 30.

marc.

On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 5:40 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Listers,
>
>
> On a recent trip I found my sea strainer plugging up with sea weed very
> often. The good news is its doing its job. The bad news is it plugs up far
> too frequently.
>
> It seems to happen most frequently when entering or leaving various
> harbours here on the west coast.
>
> On 2 occassions I noticed the temperature gauge climbing well above its
> usual range between 170-180 F.
>
> Its now to the point where I check the strainer before leaving harbour
> which is a real pain.
>
> Last season after leaving Nanaimo harbour it was plugged so badly it
> starved the impellor pump to the point where the impellor and seals had to
> be replaced.
>
> My Beta 25 has less than 170 hours on it and it runs beautifully. Perhaps
> the issue is the strainer is too small or is an out dated model that can be
> upgraded?
>
> Does anybody have any ideas on what can be done? Perhaps a screen
> preventing sea weed from entering the pickup hose?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Al H.
> Pacific Ranger
> C&C 35 Mk3
> Vancouver,BC
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
marc.
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Allan Hester via CnC-List]

Listers,


On a recent trip I found my sea strainer plugging up with sea weed very often. 
The good news is its doing its job. The bad news is it plugs up far too 
frequently.

It seems to happen most frequently when entering or leaving various harbours 
here on the west coast.

On 2 occassions I noticed the temperature gauge climbing well above its usual 
range between 170-180 F.

Its now to the point where I check the strainer before leaving harbour which is 
a real pain.

Last season after leaving Nanaimo harbour it was plugged so badly it starved 
the impellor pump to the point where the impellor and seals had to be replaced. 

My Beta 25 has less than 170 hours on it and it runs beautifully. Perhaps the 
issue is the strainer is too small or is an out dated model that can be 
upgraded?

Does anybody have any ideas on what can be done? Perhaps a screen preventing 
sea weed from entering the pickup hose?   

Thank you.

Al H.
Pacific Ranger
C&C 35 Mk3
Vancouver,BC  
___

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Re: Stus-List Engine clean-up

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Bill,
Thanks for the video link.  It looks well edited, full of info and worth while. 
 I'll watch the whole thing tonight.  Can't watch it now, gotta get back to 
work.

Chuck S



> On June 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I don't know how I stumbled upon it, but I came across a YouTube Video of a 
> young fellow doing a demonstration of engine detailing, and to my surprise, I 
> watched all of it. He took this old Camry beater and made that engine look 
> like it came off the showroom floor.  Well, almost.
> 
> Worth a watch.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRSoRkM8GcM
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
> 
> 
> Charley,
> Use paint remover from Lowes (liquid) and Auto Zone (spray can). Get small 
> tooth brush-like wire brushes, sander/wire brush for drill, scraping tools 
> (putty knife, screwdriver, etc). Use lacquer thinner to clean that mess, let 
> dry. Get pampers, yes baby diapers, to lay under, around, above, wherever, 
> the engine to catch and soak up the mess, (they’re useful to catch dripping 
> oil too, don’t ask how I know). Blue tape to mask miscellaneous parts, name 
> plate, hoses, wiring. Enjoy that ENTIRE day, second day prime what needs it 
> then paint until your hearts content. 
> I did that routine in January, worked really well, made it up as I went, 
> secret recipe. Three ol buds came by at separate times and each asked “IS 
> THAT A NEW MOTOR?” Made me feel better, but what did they say to themselves 
> before.
> 
> Jason
> C&C 29 I
> Mississippi 
> 
> 
> > 
> > Parts of my Beta 28 diesel engine have serious paint/rust scaling issues 
> > that I would like to remove before cleaning and spray painting the engine. 
> > Unfortunately, most of this is in/around the front of the engine (forward 
> > facing) cooling lines, alternator, etc. which is impossible to reach with a 
> > wire brush, either manual or on the end of a?power drill.?If I had?one with 
> > enough cfm, I would probably soda-blast the stuff away with an air 
> > compressor blaster. ?One mechanic suggested the only real way to do this is 
> > to remove the engine for soda-blasting?which is costly?and time 
> > consuming.??I might be able to do it with some sort of flexible shaft that 
> > could be driven by a power drill--any kind of regular power drill with a 
> > brush?is just too bulky to get close to/behind various engine pieces. 
> > ?OTOH, I could just try a high pressure water spray after covering up the 
> > alternator and ignition panel to motor wiring connector. ?Any suggestions 
> > from the list on how such a clean-up might be done??Charlie Nelson1995 C&C 
> > 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom???
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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