Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Thanks guys!  I appreciate the guidance very much.

Pete W.

-Original Message-
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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question (Robert Boyer)
   2.  Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question (Dreuge)
   3. Re:  Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question (bwhitmore)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2019 12:54:06 -0400
From: Robert Boyer 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It is not simply high or low density?the tank was made from LLDPE and rods must 
be the same material.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 7, 2019, at 8:48 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The tank was made from LLDPE.  Make sure your weld rods are the exact same 
> material!
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
>> On Sep 6, 2019, at 6:31 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> My water tank is leaking again. I want to attempt a weld to repair it.
>>  
>> It is a Kracor polypropylene tank, but the labeling details have faded over 
>> time, and no longer legible.  I don?t know what kind of polypropylene was 
>> used to construct the tank.
>>  So, the question is, do I use hi-density OR lo-density polypropylene?  Or, 
>> does it matter?
>>  
>> Thanks!
>>  
>> Pete W.
>> Siren Song
>> C&C 30-2
>> Deltaville, Va. 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
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--

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2019 17:32:36 -0400
From: Dreuge 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question
Message-ID: <99e9094b-77ec-4252-b559-486b46c02...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Pete,

Plastic welding is the way to go.  I tried various ways to repair tanks, but my 
welded repairs (I fixed 3 tanks now by welding) have had no problems.  Plastic 
welding is rather easy to do.  The key is getting good plastic welding rods.   
I normally use a hot air welder, but if you are very careful, you can use make 
due with a propane torch.  Though I highly recommend borrowing or buying a 
welder.  Harbor Freight sells a reasonable welder for about $60, and since they 
always have 20-25% off coupons, it would cost about $45.

Small leaks are easy to fix.  If you have a more serious repair, like a long 
crack due to poor structural support, then repair and split it with some 316 
stainless mesh. 

I purchased a package of 1/8" LDPE welding rods from Grainger. As I recall, it 
was 50 rods for $15.   I also purchased 316 mesh from Grainger.

I have details on my blog. Below is the link.  Skip down to the section on 
plastic welding.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/WaterTankRepair


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 7, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 22:31:13 +
> From: kelly petew mailto:kellype...@msn.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question
> Message-ID:
>   
>  tlook.com 
>  prod.outl

Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[David Morrison via CnC-List]

Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I pulled up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C&C 40.  All of the through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level just slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel bolts which all look like new?  Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and replace? Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.--DaveTerrapin FlyerNew Haven, CT

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Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dave,

Went through a similar exercise on my Hylas.  It only leaked when under
way.   Is the water salt or fresh?  Hot from the engine?
Turned out the stuffing box on the rudder post was leaking as was the sink
drain - but only when under way.  I suggest you dry the bilge and go out
with a friend and a flashlight.  It may be as simple as a loose hose clamp.

Joel

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 12:56 PM David Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I
> pulled up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C&C 40.  All
> of the through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level
> just slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel
> bolts which all look like new?
>
> Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and
> inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)
>
> While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard
> fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and
> replace?
>
> Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.
>
> --Dave
> Terrapin Flyer
> New Haven, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had the same issue this summer and it was stuffing box on prop shaft.  It 
accumulated significantly in the bilge over a week when I was not on the boat.  
Much faster when motoring.  It was very hard to see it dripping because it 
drips underneath the stuffing box where you can’t see easily.  I eventually 
dried everything off back there and then held my hand under the stuffing box 
and could feel the drips even without the motor running.  I did it again with 
motor running and could feel more.  Tightened it about a half turn on the nuts 
and now almost dry bilge.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 10, 2019, at 12:55 PM, David Morrison via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I pulled 
> up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C&C 40.  All of the 
> through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level just 
> slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel bolts 
> which all look like new?  
> 
> Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and 
> inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)
> 
> While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard 
> fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and 
> replace? 
> 
> Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.
> 
> --Dave
> Terrapin Flyer
> New Haven, CT
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Try the easy stuff first:
Empty your water tanks, dry out the bilge, and see whether it's still
filling.
If you've been getting heavy rain, perhaps it's just water entering the
mast and draining into the bilge. Is there any moisture around the mast
step?
Shine a light on the stuffing box and see whether water is entering that
way.
Using a felt marking pen, draw a line all around the bilge. If water is
entering above the water line, it will dissolve the markings giving you a
hint on where to look.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 9:56 AM David Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I
> pulled up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C&C 40.  All
> of the through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level
> just slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel
> bolts which all look like new?
>
> Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and
> inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)
>
> While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard
> fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and
> replace?
>
> Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.
>
> --Dave
> Terrapin Flyer
> New Haven, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=W7Z1AZqhpn6CvrW6EwE76jYv3erR3SZzRD9fzK5NSQc&s=9nPgCQ2NGr-R-B1GTSTfHnGF24MPkvAHfwwK-xtBhyo&e=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I've used Rotella oil for years with good success. I also used Amsoil for a
spell when I was driving a lot more for work, but I barely manage 15k/year
now, so Rotella T6 5w40 in my Jetta TDI has worked well for 10 years. In my
van, which has an older VW IDI turbo diesel, similar in technology to a
Yanmar, I use either T6 (full synth) or T5 (semi-synth), for the extra heat
protection over the T4 conventional oil. My van loaded is much like pushing
a heavy boat at hull speed, and oil temps will easily approach 300F on long
hills. This is where synthetics earn their keep - I see a 10psi improvement
in hot oil pressure using T6 5w40 vs T4 15w40 when oil temps are 220+. My
1.6TD van engine was at nearly 700,000 kms before it sadly died this summer
due to a failed timing belt.
If you don't push your engine too hard, conventional Rotella T4 15w40 is
fine, but either T5 or T6 will give an extra margin of safety when things
get hot, like if your water pump fails.
As far as oil changes, most synthetics will go a long time between changes,
but in the marine environment, where more contaminants may be a factor, and
for the small amount of oil these engines use, regular annual changes make
sense. Also RW cooled engines tend to run cooler, which may result in the
oil being more likely to accumulate moisture and become acidic sooner.
Since the VW 1.6D in my 35 is not working all that hard, I plan to use T5
semi-synthetic, and this is what the PO used. It has over 4000 hrs and
doesn't burn any oil, or smoke, even when cold. In fact, it may have much
more than 4000 hrs as I discovered the hour meter is a bit lethargic, and
either runs too slow, or intermittently...
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 5:01 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It’s all about the hydrodynamic film thickness provided by the oil. As
> long as that film is thicker than the major dimension of any asperities
> like surface roughness or oil borne particles that get trapped between the
> contacting surfaces then all is well from an accelerated abnormal wear
> point of view. We call it the lambda ratio which is film thickness divided
> by asperity size. You want a number greater than 1 which means no metal to
> metal contact so no wear. Anti wear additives like tricresyl phosphate in
> the oils we have nowadays build up a protective layer on the metal surfaces
> in an effort to make sure the lambda ratio stays greater than 1 and fine
> filtration traps extraneous particles that might defeat this. Our science
> is good and the engineering supports it. Again the oils we get to choose
> from are all good quality nowadays. Very good really and they can last very
> long times under our normal engine running temperatures without any thermal
> degradation.
>
> On Sat, Aug 31, 2019 at 4:55 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Ron, Wade & Bill,
>>
>> It seems engine oil can be an emotional topic. For any experienced
>> yachtsmen out there who have a system and are happy with it, please don't
>> change any practice that works for you on my account.
>>
>> For newbies and others, I typically advise that engine oil is the
>> cheapest thing we buy for our boats. Change it as often as you feel like
>> it. My routine was every fall except every other if I had less than 100
>> hours on that year.
>>
>> The filter gets changed much less.
>> Filter fun facts, filtering performance gets better as it gets dirty and
>> the blackness of oil is unburned carbon too small to filter (not harmful).
>>
>> When long distance cruising I used to save the used engine oil to use as
>> the 10:1 oil ration for my Seagull outboard. It wore a diaper when loaded
>> on the rail to keep the deck from dark stains. Livin' on the cheap, doncha
>> know!
>>
>> The main degradation factors of engine oils are heat & pressure followed
>> by combustion products (blowby) & moisture. A properly sized diesel runs
>> much higher loading than a gasoline transportation engine.
>> Thus the hierachy of engine oil can be stated as:
>> GOOD - gasoline engine rated oils
>> BETTER - diesel engine rated oils (higher detergent additives than gas
>> rated)
>> BEST - 100% synthetic feedstock oils
>>
>> So, Rotella Triple T is great for all of our applications. The main
>> reason I run synthetics though is for heat tolerance. If you lose cooling
>> capacity and don't notice right away then when "something smells HOT!"
>> happens the synthetic oil may be the difference between an inconvenience
>> and disaster.
>>
>> Syn is not for all cases of course. Last winter a buddy was on a bike
>> trip, 1200 CC air cooled,  to Mexico and wanted to "treat it right" by
>> putting fresh synthetic in. I said, "No. No. Don't do that. Synthetic is
>> too slippery for the wet clutch. Use something that has the JEMA rating,
>> like Rotella Triple-T." He did a 15,000 km trip on that

Re: Stus-List Digital fuel guage...

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Do you mean a fuel tank level gauge, or a digital fuel consumption gauge?
The latter would be very interesting to have, but would require two flow
meters to monitor the fuel intake, and the return, at least on most engines
I think. It would be really nice to be able to watch consumption vs RPM in
order to find the most efficient cruising speed. Looks like this one would
do the trick, but a less costly generic meter might also be made to work.

https://www.maretron.com/products/ffm100.php
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 12:25 PM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> Any experience?  Thanks in advance.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Digital fuel gauge...

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Actually just a digital fuel gauge.Tired of the analog being wrong (even 
after replacing gauge and sending unit).  Thought digital  might be more 
accurate.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Digital fuel guage...

Do you mean a fuel tank level gauge, or a digital fuel consumption gauge? The 
latter would be very interesting to have, but would require two flow meters to 
monitor the fuel intake, and the return, at least on most engines I think. It 
would be really nice to be able to watch consumption vs RPM in order to find 
the most efficient cruising speed. Looks like this one would do the trick, but 
a less costly generic meter might also be made to work.

https://www.maretron.com/products/ffm100.php
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 12:25 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
All,
Any experience?  Thanks in advance.
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Digital fuel gauge...

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 David; I have found that its quite entertaining to have a guest note that the 
fuel gauge is on "E" and watching them quietly panicthen giving the gauge a 
flick of the finger to show it reading "F"...
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4:
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: David Risch via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David Risch 
Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 3:35 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Digital fuel gauge...

 Actually just a digital fuel gauge.    Tired of the analog being wrong 
(even after replacing gauge and sending unit).  Thought digital  might be more 
accurate.    David F. Risch (401) 419-4650    From: CnC-List 
 On Behalf OfShawn Wright via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Digital fuel guage...    Do you mean a fuel tank level 
gauge, or a digital fuel consumption gauge? The latter would be very 
interesting to have, but would require two flow meters to monitor the fuel 
intake, and the return, at least on most engines I think. It would be really 
nice to be able to watch consumption vs RPM in order to find the most efficient 
cruising speed. Looks like this one would do the trick, but a less costly 
generic meter might also be made to work.
___

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Stus-List C&C29 MK I Sails

[onno boswinkel via CnC-List]

I have the following C&C29 sails. They haven't been used since 1991 and they're 
free, except you pay the actual shipping cost.1. 150% mylar, North, 19842. 150% 
dacron, Shore, 19773. 130% dacron, Thurston, 19854. 90% dacron, Shore, 19775. 
Main dacron, North, 19846. Main dacron, Shore, 1977
Onno BoswinkelANTIDOTEC&C33 mk II
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Digital fuel gauge...

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

A “digital” gauge attached to the same old sender will not be any more 
accurate. I have used plenty of flowmeters that actually count fuel used and 
absolutely love them. One airplane I used to fly had it connected to the GPS 
and it would set off an alarm if you didn’t have enough fuel to reach the 
programmed destination. If you think boat fuel gauges are bad, airplanes with 
wide flat tanks are REALLY bad and if you have any dihedral you can either read 
the top half of the tank or the bottom half.
That said, I have never bought one for my boat because they all seem to not be 
accurate or even work at all at the very low flow rates common on sailboats. If 
anyone knows of one that works in the 0.25-2 GPH range I would love to get it.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Risch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 3:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Digital fuel gauge...

Actually just a digital fuel gauge.Tired of the analog being wrong (even 
after replacing gauge and sending unit).  Thought digital  might be more 
accurate.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Shawn Wright via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Digital fuel guage...

Do you mean a fuel tank level gauge, or a digital fuel consumption gauge? The 
latter would be very interesting to have, but would require two flow meters to 
monitor the fuel intake, and the return, at least on most engines I think. It 
would be really nice to be able to watch consumption vs RPM in order to find 
the most efficient cruising speed. Looks like this one would do the trick, but 
a less costly generic meter might also be made to work.

https://www.maretron.com/products/ffm100.php
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 12:25 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
All,
Any experience?  Thanks in advance.
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Digital fuel gauge...

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Keep in mind that unless your tank has a flat, reasonably level bottom with 4 
walls that are reasonably perpendicular to the bottom, ANY fuel gauge that 
relies solely on the depth of fuel in the tank will need to be calibrated since 
the depth of fuel of 1/2 tank is unlikely to represent 1/2 of fuel remaining! 
My tank slopes on the bottom along 2 different directions (athwartship and fore 
and aft) so a simple linear relationship does not exist. Further, until I had 
to replace the tank, my tank shape (except the top panel) was assumed to be 
rectangular but was far from it!
Little reason to have a digital gauge Whose precision is up to 3+ places in 
light of a tank- gauge calibration which is much less accurate!
Charlie NelsonS/V Water Phantom1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Tuesday, September 10, 2019, David Risch via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 
Actually just a digital fuel gauge.    Tired of the analog being wrong (even 
after replacing gauge and sending unit).  Thought digital  might be more 
accurate.
 
  
 
David F. Risch
 
(401) 419-4650
 
  
 
From: CnC-List  On Behalf OfShawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Digital fuel guage...
 
  
 
Do you mean a fuel tank level gauge, or a digital fuel consumption gauge? The 
latter would be very interesting to have, but would require two flow meters to 
monitor the fuel intake, and the return, at least on most engines I think. It 
would be really nice to be able to watch consumption vs RPM in order to find 
the most efficient cruising speed. Looks like this one would do the trick, but 
a less costly generic meter might also be made to work.
 
  
 
https://www.maretron.com/products/ffm100.php

 
--
 
Shawn Wright
 
shawngwri...@gmail.com
 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
 
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
 
  
 
  
 
On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 12:25 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

All,
 
Any experience?  Thanks in advance.  
 
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Re: Stus-List Digital fuel gauge...

[sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List]

I'm in the process of replacing my 3 fuel gauges. once new analog gauges are 
hooked up, i will pour in fuel 5 gallons at a time. Let fuel settle and take 
readings on gauge. This will give me a fairly close proximity of accuracy.  I'm 
using 1 gauge with a 3 pole rotary  switch to select which I'm using. Doug 
Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C&C LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/10/19  15:37  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Digital fuel 
gauge... Keep in mind that unless your tank has a flat, reasonably level bottom 
with 4 walls that are reasonably perpendicular to the bottom, ANY fuel gauge 
that relies solely on the depth of fuel in the tank will need to be calibrated 
since the depth of fuel of 1/2 tank is unlikely to represent 1/2 of fuel 
remaining! My tank slopes on the bottom along 2 different directions 
(athwartship and fore and aft) so a simple linear relationship does not exist. 
Further, until I had to replace the tank, my tank shape (except the top panel) 
was assumed to be rectangular but was far from it!Little reason to have a 
digital gauge Whose precision is up to 3+ places in light of a tank- gauge 
calibration which is much less accurate!Charlie NelsonS/V Water Phantom1995 C&C 
36 XL/kcbSent from AOL Mobile MailGet the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com


On Tuesday, September 10, 2019, David Risch via CnC-List 
 wrote:



 
 




Actually just a digital fuel gauge.    Tired of the analog being wrong (even 
after replacing gauge and sending unit).  Thought digital  might be more 
accurate. 
   
David F. Risch 
(401) 419-4650 
   
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of
Shawn Wright via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Digital fuel guage... 
   

Do you mean a fuel tank level gauge, or a digital fuel consumption gauge? The 
latter would be very interesting to have, but would require two flow meters to 
monitor the fuel intake, and the return, at least on most engines I think. It 
would
 be really nice to be able to watch consumption vs RPM in order to find the 
most efficient cruising speed. Looks like this one would do the trick, but a 
less costly generic meter might also be made to work. 

   


https://www.maretron.com/products/ffm100.php
 





-- 


Shawn Wright 


shawngwri...@gmail.com 


S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 


https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 





   


   


On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 12:25 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
 wrote: 




All, 


Any experience?  Thanks in advance.  
 


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Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Cockpit scoopers – or rather, their houses??

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 1:25:50 PM
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

Try the easy stuff first:
Empty your water tanks, dry out the bilge, and see whether it's still filling.
If you've been getting heavy rain, perhaps it's just water entering the mast 
and draining into the bilge. Is there any moisture around the mast step?
Shine a light on the stuffing box and see whether water is entering that way.
Using a felt marking pen, draw a line all around the bilge. If water is 
entering above the water line, it will dissolve the markings giving you a hint 
on where to look.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 9:56 AM David Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I pulled up 
all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C&C 40.  All of the 
through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level just slowly 
creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel bolts which all 
look like new?

Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and 
inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)

While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard 
fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and 
replace?

Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.

--Dave
Terrapin Flyer
New Haven, CT


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Re: Stus-List C&C29 MK I Sails

[Doug Robinson via CnC-List]

OnnO;

Sent you instructions by PM on the North sails.  Let me know and I will 
forward the FedEx shipping docs toot sweet...


Doug





r

On 9/10/19 5:03 PM, onno boswinkel via CnC-List wrote:
I have the following C&C29 sails. They haven't been used since 1991 
and they're free, except you pay the actual shipping cost.

1. 150% mylar, North, 1984
2. 150% dacron, Shore, 1977
3. 130% dacron, Thurston, 1985
4. 90% dacron, Shore, 1977
5. Main dacron, North, 1984
6. Main dacron, Shore, 1977

Onno Boswinkel
ANTIDOTE
C&C33 mk II


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