Re: Stus-List C 32 - toerail bolts

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Interesting about the 5/16 on the 30-1. My 35-2 are definitely 1/4", oval
head philips machine screws, and the 2" length sounds correct.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
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Stus-List TRIM YOUR MESSAGES!!!!!

[Stu via CnC-List]

I am not saying please and asking you nicely to trim your messages if replying 
to a previous email.  I have asked and asked and every day I get messages 
rejected because they are too large.

Next time you get some messages from the list, don’t just read the message but 
read all the way to the bottom and see what I mean.

This list is very, very popular and has a lot of traffic and every message is 
archived and that takes up disc space.  So imagine one message repeated and 
repeated to the point it gets rejected.  

I am charged for archiving our messages and we are almost at the the 3rd level. 
 I would imagine my cost will go up again by the fall.

Okay – I will say PLEASE.  Trim your messages or get trimmed.

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on cyclically, all switches OFF

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Try disconnecting the wire to the oil pressure sensor. The sensor could be
stuck. If that cures it, replace the sensor.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:32 PM Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our 1980 30-1 has the original 2QM15 and instrument panel. Last night on
> the mooring, the warning buzzer above the usual three idiot lights started
> going off, intermittently - 15 or so seconds on, 15 or so seconds off,
> repeat. The big red switch was OFF, the ignition switch was OFF with the
> key on its usual in-cabin hook, the engine was not running, and there
> should NOT have been any power to the buzzer!I The oil pressure light
> glowed faintly when the buzzer was buzzing. I repeat, the engine was not
> running and the ignition was OFF. We've had this Good Old Boat 15 years
> now, this is new.
>
> Today, mystified, I disconnected the buzzer, to avoid further annoying the
> neighbors. I had some tranny work done recently, maybe the installers
> bumped the wiring or something..,. ??
>
> I assume some short somewhere? Any ideas? I faintly remember a
> short-finding recipe on this wonderful list many years ago, anyone remember
> it?
>
> Nate
> Sarah Jean
> 1980 30-1
> St. Croix River Hudson WI
> and
> Raven
> Tartan 31
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

We just bought a Minn Kota trolling motor for our Walker Bay 8 hard dinghy.
As I didn't have time to source fancy batteries, I just got a Gr 24 deep
cycle lead acid for now. Planning to charge it using a smart 2/8/15A
charger powered by an inverter and our house bank (4 6V GC2 batteries),
which will soon be either 340 or 400W solar. I know the Minn Kota won't
compare with a 2hp outboard or the Torquedo, but the whole setup cost me
<$550 CAD including a battery charger, which I needed anyway. I was a bit
surprised that the Minn Kota actually weighs more than a Honda 2Hp (and of
course one of those came up for $150 the next day), but I detest gas
engines, and really don't want to carry another fuel aboard. Haven't tried
it yet, aside from a quick zip around the docks in 20kn wind, but speed
seemed ok, maybe 3 knots. If we want to go faster, we'll use the sail kit
on the WB... :)

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 12:11 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We have a torqeedo and a Mecury 6 hp 4 stroke, both from the prior owner
> of our boat, so I've compared them side-by-side.  The 6 hp can get our 10
> ft. PortaBote up on plane 13 kts., and with a separate tank has a really,
> really long run time.  Downside?  Small gasoline engines require fresh fuel
> and maintenance.  And, the weight makes it a challenge to take on & off the
> boat, though we have a system now that makes it a lot easier.
>
> By comparison, the torqeedo is nearly slient, I can put it on the boat
> with one hand, and I recharge the battery from my 12 volt system on
> Astralis.  Heck, if I want to extend the range, I can just bring one of my
> house batteries and connect the torqeedo to it.  Downsides?  The electrical
> connections can be a bit finnicky, and you won't get more than about 4 kts.
> out of it.
>
> I would personally not buy an off-brand electric.
>
> I like both, and its great that I have options.
>
> Bruce
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/31/20 11:52 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John Conklin 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy
>
> I looked hard at that one at Annapolis boat show last year  Super light
> nice affordable package. No where near the power of the torquedo Though
> There is one other I also really liked  will look for the brochure.
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On May 31, 2020, at 10:55 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Despite the extra cost, I am starting to like the idea of an electric.
> I also found this motor: EP Carry (
> https://www.electricpaddle.com/index.html).  It is made in the US,
> slightly cheaper and lighter than the Torqeedo but otherwise seem
> functionally equivalent.  A bit less high tech and less cool factor (no
> integrated USB charger or charge display).  One thing I think I like is
> that the battery pack is separate and connects with cable to motor.  So
> moving the motor from dinghy to C is two light packages (14 pounds and 6
> pounds with the battery in a floating case).  For normal use, I would
> simply bring the battery pack home each time and recharge it.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> On May 31, 2020, at 10:35 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yep Torqeudo next for me for sure (if I don’t find a used 2.5 or
> something) I have a LEHR 9.9 I M happy to sell  my back Just  can’t quite
> handle that one.
> Just had a long discussion with a guy at town dock he loves it!! And
> charges up easily from his solar panel
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On May 31, 2020, at 6:02 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my
> dinghy (9ft Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but
> disassembles and the battery can be installed after you put the motor on
> the boat. Quiet, no fuel, no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you
> charge it. The 503 Model is under 30 lbs I think if you are concerned about
> weight.  Also depends on which battery you get.  More money up front but a
> lot less hassle in the long run I expect (new this year for me).
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> 

Re: Stus-List C 32 - toerail bolts

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As one who has replaced many of these bolts, I checked today just to make sure. 
The ones I have are 5/16 x 2 inch. Just having used that same diameter on my 
exhaust manifold, I think you could substitute an 8mm bolt. My toe rail bolts 
are a mix of flat head and oval head Philips style. I replaced a toe rail and 
used the good butyl – so far no leaks after a couple of seasons. By the way, 
old butyl comes off really easy with paint thinner.

 

Good luck.

 

Gary

30-1

St. Michaels Maryland

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Adam Johnson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 4:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Adam Johnson 
Subject: Stus-List C 32 - toerail bolts

 

Hello all, 

 

I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me C 32 is 
moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring jobs when I can 
finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships to stern on both sides, 
many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt tightening however some really need 
to be replaced. Anyone know the type of bolt used i.e. size, min length etc and 
good online source to order from? Assume I'm going to need 30-40 of them. 

 

Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to use on 
new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I have sourced some 
butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have access to sika products here.

 

Thanks!

 

Adam Johnson

'84 C 32 

Melbourne, Australia

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Stus-List C 37+ Bow Chocks

[Rob Hamlin via CnC-List]

Hi
I’m new owner of Sapphire (formally Kaylarah capt. Gary, and it’s a great boat) 
Does anyone have experience replacing the bow chocks on a 37/40, the current 
setup does not allow for easy on / off of mooring ride.

Thanks
Rob

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List bilge etc.

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

Thanks for the note. Yes it is a 74 35Mk2, you have good eyes.

I had my float switch broken and had the water up to almost the top of the
bilge...a winter season where I did not pay much attention to the water
level through the winter, as I thought it was all “waterproof”. I guess
that was a bad assumption.

What is the significance of it if I keep my water level low?

Could you let me know more about your magnetic float switch?

Bo



On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 4:52 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is this a 35? Looks very similar to my '74 35 mk2, and yes it is wood, but
> glassed to at least 1/2 way up, presumably on both sides, which should help
> to protect it to a degree. I expect that replacing the wood will be a
> rather big job due to limited access, and unless you cut into the liner,
> there will be no way to glass in the back side. I would suggest drilling a
> few test holes to determine the extent and location of the damage. You may
> then be able to cut out only the soft wood, and use the existing tabbing to
> glass new wood in place. I'm not sure that it really offers that much extra
> support to the floor liner, which is cored with 1/2" plywood, and also
> supported by the contoured recess for the bilge access cover. Maybe try
> having someone apply weight at various places while watching for flex. I
> would concentrate of getting to the source of the water damage, whether it
> is windows, toerail leaks, or improper bilge pump setup. I recently
> switched to a magnetic float switch for my primary bilge pump that
> activates with much less water, keeping the bilge level at about 1" or so.
> I also have both pumps wired for manual switching so I can suck it as dry
> as the pumps will go.
>
> Also worth mentioning is the worst water damage on our boat is the forward
> inner corner of the galley sink counter, and the adjoining plywood leading
> forward under the settee. The previous owner cut in new wood and heavily
> epoxied everything in this area to repair the damage, and it has stayed dry
> in the past year since we've had her. There is still a small drip that
> lands in the food locker that I haven't tracked down (either window or
> toerail), but it is very minor.
>
> Feel free to share more on this, especially if it's a 35, as I've spent
> lots of time in the bilge lately... :)
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 11:03 AM General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> Just had an insurance surveyor come over to the boat today, it is
>> "generally" good, but the surveyor did find one thing that he suggested me
>> to verify with the marina manager (who has the same boat as mine, 1974 C
>> Mk2). Please refer to the picture attached.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFpiwA-8iAY6WaI6o7lz5gGeMSkgJFzP
>>
>> I put text in the picture. I had thought the bilge where the bolt is
>> sitting at would be steel, only today I have realized where it says "wood"
>> is made of wood. The surveyor thought the wood was loose and "rotten" and
>> therefore the floor on top is not properly supported, though this is not
>> safety related in his view, it needs to be fixed.
>>
>> What do you think? is this something serious?
>>
>> Thank you in advance.
>>
>> Bo
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on cyclically, all switches OFF

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Gremlins

Sent from my iPhone

On May 31, 2020, at 5:47 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Ghosts or Demons

At 02:31 PM 5/31/2020, you wrote:
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:31:06 -0500
From: Nate Flesness 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on
 cyclically, all switches OFF
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Our 1980 30-1 has the original 2QM15 and instrument panel. Last night on
the mooring, the warning buzzer above the usual three idiot lights started
going off, intermittently - 15 or so seconds on, 15 or so seconds off,
repeat. The big red switch was OFF, the ignition switch was OFF with the
key on its usual in-cabin hook, the engine was not running, and there
should NOT have been any power to the buzzer!I The oil pressure light
glowed faintly when the buzzer was buzzing. I repeat, the engine was not
running and the ignition was OFF. We've had this Good Old Boat 15 years
now, this is new.

Today, mystified, I disconnected the buzzer, to avoid further annoying the
neighbors. I had some tranny work done recently, maybe the installers
bumped the wiring or something..,. ??

I assume some short somewhere? Any ideas? I faintly remember a
short-finding recipe on this wonderful list many years ago, anyone remember
it?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River Hudson WI
and
Raven
Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List bilge etc.

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

On second look at your photo, it doesn't look like a 35, or if it is, your
sole is different. The area you have indicated as steel is I believe the
thick layers of glass that C used to reinforce the hull at each keel stud
in the earlier boats. The later boats seem to use a more modern grid
layout, but I'm not sure when the changes were made.

Here are a few photos of my bilge taken today, just after I sucked it dry
after a head incident caused some water to enter (stuck joker valve or
plugged anti-siphon vent, not sure which). You can see the layers of glass
at each keel stud. The aft most keel nut has not been removed since I got
the boat last year and unfortunately water backs up behind it and caused a
trickle of rusty water to run down. I wasn't aware when I torqued the other
keel nuts that there is an access hole for this stud below the wood sole
(which is not glued down). I am hoping to fix all this at next haulout by
filling in the bilge so the water flows better.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/D9V3AVSbzJkBUvFp8

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 1:51 PM Shawn Wright  wrote:

> Is this a 35? Looks very similar to my '74 35 mk2, and yes it is wood, but
> glassed to at least 1/2 way up, presumably on both sides, which should help
> to protect it to a degree. I expect that replacing the wood will be a
> rather big job due to limited access, and unless you cut into the liner,
> there will be no way to glass in the back side. I would suggest drilling a
> few test holes to determine the extent and location of the damage. You may
> then be able to cut out only the soft wood, and use the existing tabbing to
> glass new wood in place. I'm not sure that it really offers that much extra
> support to the floor liner, which is cored with 1/2" plywood, and also
> supported by the contoured recess for the bilge access cover. Maybe try
> having someone apply weight at various places while watching for flex. I
> would concentrate of getting to the source of the water damage, whether it
> is windows, toerail leaks, or improper bilge pump setup. I recently
> switched to a magnetic float switch for my primary bilge pump that
> activates with much less water, keeping the bilge level at about 1" or so.
> I also have both pumps wired for manual switching so I can suck it as dry
> as the pumps will go.
>
> Also worth mentioning is the worst water damage on our boat is the forward
> inner corner of the galley sink counter, and the adjoining plywood leading
> forward under the settee. The previous owner cut in new wood and heavily
> epoxied everything in this area to repair the damage, and it has stayed dry
> in the past year since we've had her. There is still a small drip that
> lands in the food locker that I haven't tracked down (either window or
> toerail), but it is very minor.
>
> Feel free to share more on this, especially if it's a 35, as I've spent
> lots of time in the bilge lately... :)
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 11:03 AM General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> Just had an insurance surveyor come over to the boat today, it is
>> "generally" good, but the surveyor did find one thing that he suggested me
>> to verify with the marina manager (who has the same boat as mine, 1974 C
>> Mk2). Please refer to the picture attached.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFpiwA-8iAY6WaI6o7lz5gGeMSkgJFzP
>>
>> I put text in the picture. I had thought the bilge where the bolt is
>> sitting at would be steel, only today I have realized where it says "wood"
>> is made of wood. The surveyor thought the wood was loose and "rotten" and
>> therefore the floor on top is not properly supported, though this is not
>> safety related in his view, it needs to be fixed.
>>
>> What do you think? is this something serious?
>>
>> Thank you in advance.
>>
>> Bo
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on cyclically, all switches OFF

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Ghosts or Demons

At 02:31 PM 5/31/2020, you wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:31:06 -0500
From: Nate Flesness 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on
cyclically, all switches OFF
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Our 1980 30-1 has the original 2QM15 and instrument panel. Last night on
the mooring, the warning buzzer above the usual three idiot lights started
going off, intermittently - 15 or so seconds on, 15 or so seconds off,
repeat. The big red switch was OFF, the ignition switch was OFF with the
key on its usual in-cabin hook, the engine was not running, and there
should NOT have been any power to the buzzer!I The oil pressure light
glowed faintly when the buzzer was buzzing. I repeat, the engine was not
running and the ignition was OFF. We've had this Good Old Boat 15 years
now, this is new.

Today, mystified, I disconnected the buzzer, to avoid further annoying the
neighbors. I had some tranny work done recently, maybe the installers
bumped the wiring or something..,. ??

I assume some short somewhere? Any ideas? I faintly remember a
short-finding recipe on this wonderful list many years ago, anyone remember
it?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River Hudson WI
and
Raven
Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on cyclically, all switches OFF

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Our 1980 30-1 has the original 2QM15 and instrument panel. Last night on
the mooring, the warning buzzer above the usual three idiot lights started
going off, intermittently - 15 or so seconds on, 15 or so seconds off,
repeat. The big red switch was OFF, the ignition switch was OFF with the
key on its usual in-cabin hook, the engine was not running, and there
should NOT have been any power to the buzzer!I The oil pressure light
glowed faintly when the buzzer was buzzing. I repeat, the engine was not
running and the ignition was OFF. We've had this Good Old Boat 15 years
now, this is new.

Today, mystified, I disconnected the buzzer, to avoid further annoying the
neighbors. I had some tranny work done recently, maybe the installers
bumped the wiring or something..,. ??

I assume some short somewhere? Any ideas? I faintly remember a
short-finding recipe on this wonderful list many years ago, anyone remember
it?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River Hudson WI
and
Raven
Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List bilge etc.

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Is this a 35? Looks very similar to my '74 35 mk2, and yes it is wood, but
glassed to at least 1/2 way up, presumably on both sides, which should help
to protect it to a degree. I expect that replacing the wood will be a
rather big job due to limited access, and unless you cut into the liner,
there will be no way to glass in the back side. I would suggest drilling a
few test holes to determine the extent and location of the damage. You may
then be able to cut out only the soft wood, and use the existing tabbing to
glass new wood in place. I'm not sure that it really offers that much extra
support to the floor liner, which is cored with 1/2" plywood, and also
supported by the contoured recess for the bilge access cover. Maybe try
having someone apply weight at various places while watching for flex. I
would concentrate of getting to the source of the water damage, whether it
is windows, toerail leaks, or improper bilge pump setup. I recently
switched to a magnetic float switch for my primary bilge pump that
activates with much less water, keeping the bilge level at about 1" or so.
I also have both pumps wired for manual switching so I can suck it as dry
as the pumps will go.

Also worth mentioning is the worst water damage on our boat is the forward
inner corner of the galley sink counter, and the adjoining plywood leading
forward under the settee. The previous owner cut in new wood and heavily
epoxied everything in this area to repair the damage, and it has stayed dry
in the past year since we've had her. There is still a small drip that
lands in the food locker that I haven't tracked down (either window or
toerail), but it is very minor.

Feel free to share more on this, especially if it's a 35, as I've spent
lots of time in the bilge lately... :)
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 11:03 AM General Gao via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Just had an insurance surveyor come over to the boat today, it is
> "generally" good, but the surveyor did find one thing that he suggested me
> to verify with the marina manager (who has the same boat as mine, 1974 C
> Mk2). Please refer to the picture attached.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFpiwA-8iAY6WaI6o7lz5gGeMSkgJFzP
>
> I put text in the picture. I had thought the bilge where the bolt is
> sitting at would be steel, only today I have realized where it says "wood"
> is made of wood. The surveyor thought the wood was loose and "rotten" and
> therefore the floor on top is not properly supported, though this is not
> safety related in his view, it needs to be fixed.
>
> What do you think? is this something serious?
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Bo
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

We have a torqeedo and a Mecury 6 hp 4 stroke, both from the prior owner of our 
boat, so I've compared them side-by-side.  The 6 hp can get our 10 ft. 
PortaBote up on plane 13 kts., and with a separate tank has a really, really 
long run time.  Downside?  Small gasoline engines require fresh fuel and 
maintenance.  And, the weight makes it a challenge to take on & off the boat, 
though we have a system now that makes it a lot easier.By comparison, the 
torqeedo is nearly slient, I can put it on the boat with one hand, and I 
recharge the battery from my 12 volt system on Astralis.  Heck, if I want to 
extend the range, I can just bring one of my house batteries and connect the 
torqeedo to it.  Downsides?  The electrical connections can be a bit finnicky, 
and you won't get more than about 4 kts. out of it.  I would personally not buy 
an off-brand electric.I like both, and its great that I have options.Bruce1994 
C 37/40+ "Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/31/20  11:52 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Conklin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy 
I looked hard at that one at Annapolis boat show last year  Super light nice 
affordable package. No where near the power of the torquedo Though 

There is one other I also really liked  will look for the brochure. 

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com




On May 31, 2020, at 10:55 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:




 Despite the extra cost, I am starting to like the idea of an electric.  I 
also found this motor: EP Carry (https://www.electricpaddle.com/index.html).  
It is made in the US, slightly
 cheaper and lighter than the Torqeedo but otherwise seem functionally 
equivalent.  A bit less high tech and less cool factor (no integrated USB 
charger or charge display).  One thing I think I like is that the battery pack 
is separate and connects with cable
 to motor.  So moving the motor from dinghy to C is two light packages (14 
pounds and 6 pounds with the battery in a floating case).  For normal use, I 
would simply bring the battery pack home each time and recharge it.  Dave




S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT







On May 31, 2020, at 10:35 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Yep Torqeudo next for me for sure (if I don’t find a used 2.5 or something) I 
have a LEHR 9.9 I M happy to sell  my back Just  can’t quite handle that one. 
Just had a long discussion with a guy at town dock he loves it!! And charges up 
easily from his solar panel

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com




On May 31, 2020, at 6:02 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:




 Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy 
(9ft Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles and 
the battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, no 
fuel,
 no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge it. The 503 Model is 
under 30 lbs I think if you are concerned about weight.  Also depends on which 
battery you get.  More money up front but a lot less hassle in the long run I 
expect (new this year
 for me). 
Nathan

S/V Wisper










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Re: Stus-List bilge etc.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Be interested to hear other comments.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 31, 2020, at 2:03 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi everyone,

Just had an insurance surveyor come over to the boat today, it is "generally" 
good, but the surveyor did find one thing that he suggested me to verify with 
the marina manager (who has the same boat as mine, 1974 C Mk2). Please refer 
to the picture attached.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFpiwA-8iAY6WaI6o7lz5gGeMSkgJFzP

I put text in the picture. I had thought the bilge where the bolt is sitting at 
would be steel, only today I have realized where it says "wood" is made of 
wood. The surveyor thought the wood was loose and "rotten" and therefore the 
floor on top is not properly supported, though this is not safety related in 
his view, it needs to be fixed.

What do you think? is this something serious?

Thank you in advance.

Bo
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Stus-List bilge etc.

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

Just had an insurance surveyor come over to the boat today, it is
"generally" good, but the surveyor did find one thing that he suggested me
to verify with the marina manager (who has the same boat as mine, 1974 C
Mk2). Please refer to the picture attached.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFpiwA-8iAY6WaI6o7lz5gGeMSkgJFzP

I put text in the picture. I had thought the bilge where the bolt is
sitting at would be steel, only today I have realized where it says "wood"
is made of wood. The surveyor thought the wood was loose and "rotten" and
therefore the floor on top is not properly supported, though this is not
safety related in his view, it needs to be fixed.

What do you think? is this something serious?

Thank you in advance.

Bo
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I looked hard at that one at Annapolis boat show last year  Super light nice 
affordable package. No where near the power of the torquedo Though
There is one other I also really liked  will look for the brochure.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 31, 2020, at 10:55 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Despite the extra cost, I am starting to like the idea of an electric.  I 
also found this motor: EP Carry (https://www.electricpaddle.com/index.html).  
It is made in the US, slightly cheaper and lighter than the Torqeedo but 
otherwise seem functionally equivalent.  A bit less high tech and less cool 
factor (no integrated USB charger or charge display).  One thing I think I like 
is that the battery pack is separate and connects with cable to motor.  So 
moving the motor from dinghy to C is two light packages (14 pounds and 6 
pounds with the battery in a floating case).  For normal use, I would simply 
bring the battery pack home each time and recharge it.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



On May 31, 2020, at 10:35 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yep Torqeudo next for me for sure (if I don’t find a used 2.5 or something) I 
have a LEHR 9.9 I M happy to sell  my back Just  can’t quite handle that one.
Just had a long discussion with a guy at town dock he loves it!! And charges up 
easily from his solar panel

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 31, 2020, at 6:02 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy 
(9ft Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles and 
the battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, no 
fuel, no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge it. The 503 
Model is under 30 lbs I think if you are concerned about weight.  Also depends 
on which battery you get.  More money up front but a lot less hassle in the 
long run I expect (new this year for me).
Nathan
S/V Wisper

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Despite the extra cost, I am starting to like the idea of an electric.  I also 
found this motor: EP Carry (https://www.electricpaddle.com/index.html).  It is 
made in the US, slightly cheaper and lighter than the Torqeedo but otherwise 
seem functionally equivalent.  A bit less high tech and less cool factor (no 
integrated USB charger or charge display).  One thing I think I like is that 
the battery pack is separate and connects with cable to motor.  So moving the 
motor from dinghy to C is two light packages (14 pounds and 6 pounds with the 
battery in a floating case).  For normal use, I would simply bring the battery 
pack home each time and recharge it.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On May 31, 2020, at 10:35 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yep Torqeudo next for me for sure (if I don’t find a used 2.5 or something) I 
> have a LEHR 9.9 I M happy to sell  my back Just  can’t quite handle that one. 
> Just had a long discussion with a guy at town dock he loves it!! And charges 
> up easily from his solar panel
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
> 
> 
>> On May 31, 2020, at 6:02 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>  Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy 
>> (9ft Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles 
>> and the battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, 
>> no fuel, no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge it. The 
>> 503 Model is under 30 lbs I think if you are concerned about weight.  Also 
>> depends on which battery you get.  More money up front but a lot less hassle 
>> in the long run I expect (new this year for me). 
>> Nathan
>> S/V Wisper

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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Yep Torqeudo next for me for sure (if I don’t find a used 2.5 or something) I 
have a LEHR 9.9 I M happy to sell  my back Just  can’t quite handle that one.
Just had a long discussion with a guy at town dock he loves it!! And charges up 
easily from his solar panel

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 31, 2020, at 6:02 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy 
(9ft Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles and 
the battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, no 
fuel, no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge it. The 503 
Model is under 30 lbs I think if you are concerned about weight.  Also depends 
on which battery you get.  More money up front but a lot less hassle in the 
long run I expect (new this year for me).
Nathan
S/V Wisper

On May 30, 2020, at 7:22 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I actually had one for years. NO WAY would I even think about getting near one 
again. To stat with, the 10:1 mix of gas and 30 weight motor oil made a nasty 
mess and it was famous for not starting at random times.

Joe

Coquina

On 5/30/2020 7:16 PM, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List wrote:
Humm...  :-)

From their website ( "its time" actually is 1931 ) :

For its time the original engine was very advanced, a good proportion of the 
original engines are still running and parts are generally still available to 
keep them that way - a truly unique engine, a magnificent piece of British 
engineering and ingenuity.

Sylvain ( with an A4  :-)  )


Le samedi 30 mai 2020 19 h 05 min 25 s HAE, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
 a écrit :




I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft British Seagull.

The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???

Jim Hesketh
C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL



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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy (9ft 
Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles and the 
battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, no fuel, 
no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge it. The 503 Model is 
under 30 lbs I think if you are concerned about weight.  Also depends on which 
battery you get.  More money up front but a lot less hassle in the long run I 
expect (new this year for me). 
Nathan
S/V Wisper

> On May 30, 2020, at 7:22 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I actually had one for years. NO WAY would I even think about getting near 
> one again. To stat with, the 10:1 mix of gas and 30 weight motor oil made a 
> nasty mess and it was famous for not starting at random times.
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> On 5/30/2020 7:16 PM, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List wrote:
>> Humm...  :-)
>> 
>> From their website ( "its time" actually is 1931 ) :
>> 
>> For its time the original engine was very advanced, a good proportion of the 
>> original engines are still running and parts are generally still available 
>> to keep them that way - a truly unique engine, a magnificent piece of 
>> British engineering and ingenuity.
>> 
>> Sylvain ( with an A4  :-)  )
>> 
>> 
>> Le samedi 30 mai 2020 19 h 05 min 25 s HAE, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
>>  a écrit :
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft British 
>> Seagull. 
>> 
>> The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???
>> 
>> Jim Hesketh
>> C 26 Whisper
>> Miami, FL
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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