Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

G10 is a fiberglass laminate that is laid up and then cured in a press, so it's 
very stiff, fireproof, and the surfaces are smooth like formica.  I first saw 
it used to make windsurfer fins as it's very stiff.  That started in the 90's.  
The fins are usually a dull green color.

I just bought some small pieces of G10 recently from McmasterCarr.com.  Pricey, 
but damn nicely made material.  I got 1/4" thick material to raise my deck 
organizers but it turned out to be way too heavy for that purpose.  I made 
risers from PVC sheet.  I also got two 12" squares of 1/16" thick G10 material 
to use to level the camber of the coachroof under a winch or solar fan.  
Instead, I might use those under the clutches to reenforce that area.  G10 
comes in six colors now.  I bought black and the surface is very shiny.  I 
might cut out "C&C 34R" from the 1/4" stuff to replace the old placards.  Sweet.

Chuck S, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena Md



> On June 14, 2020 at 9:23 AM Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> G10??
> 
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> 
> -
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nathan Post 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 6:51:51 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Nathan Post 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes
>  
> Randy,
> I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of 
> my cockpit that wasn’t working.  My strategy was to use an angle grinder to 
> taper the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed 
> glass on an angle all around the hole.  Then I took a piece of roughly 0.1” 
> thick g10 that was bigger then the hole and glued it in behind.  First sand 
> the G10 with course grit paper, clean with acetone and then use a fast 
> setting adhesive (I used 3M 8805NS) and tape in place until set.  In your 
> case you need to get it between the liner and the deck laminate so if you 
> don’t have access from elsewhere you may need to do it in more than one 
> piece. Then just use masking tape on the back of the seam when you go to 
> laminate glass in. Once the g10 is bonded and cured you can wet lay glass 
> fabric in to fill the hole.  use slow epoxy and orienting the layers in 
> different directions. Doesn’t matter if the glass goes slightly beyond the 
> hole- you can sand it off later. When that is cured sand off areas that stick 
> out using a large orbital sander with course grit and fill areas that are not 
> thick enough with fairing compound. Sand again to 120 grit. Prime and paint 
> or gel coat to finish.
> 
> You may want to stick with a teak or starboard cover plate on the inside 
> as I think it will be harder to match the liner well and if you put 
> instruments in you may want access to wire the backside anyway.
> 
> - -
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 
> > On Jun 13, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> >
> > Hello Listers,
> >
> > Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a 
> teak nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
> interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
> Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other 
> instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.
> >
> > So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” 
> circular hole in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 
> 3/8” thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.
> >
> > Thank you in advance.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Randy Stafford
> > S/V Grenadine
> > C&C 30 MK I #79
> > Ken Caryl, CO
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You can even buy 'kits' for doing such repairs

Marek


 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2020-06-14 22:00 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

Joel,

If the rudder bearings are worn, West Systems suggests the following fix on 
page 56:

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Fiberglass-Manual-2015.pdf

Chuck S
On June 14, 2020 at 6:40 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 Because there a play about 1/4”
Specific questions how to take it apart

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 4:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Nope.  Ya just have to take it apart.  Is there a more specific question?

The real question is why are you considering replacing the bushing?  They 
generally don't wear out.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 16:49 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have a wheel on my boat, I would like to take off the rudder  to change the 
bushing,
Is there is an instruction step by step
On the website or some can help
On 30 mk 1 1973
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download]
www.jdroofing.ca

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--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download]
www.jdroofing.ca

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Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Joel,

If the rudder bearings are worn, West Systems suggests the following fix on 
page 56:

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Fiberglass-Manual-2015.pdf

Chuck S

> On June 14, 2020 at 6:40 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Because there a play about 1/4”
> Specific questions how to take it apart 
> 
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 4:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Nope.  Ya just have to take it apart.  Is there a more 
> specific question?
> > 
> > The real question is why are you considering replacing the bushing? 
> >  They generally don't wear out.
> > 
> > Josh Muckley
> > S/V Sea Hawk 
> > 1989 C&C 37+
> > Solomons, MD
> > 
> > 
> > On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 16:49 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I have a wheel on my boat, I would like to 
> > take off the rudder  to change the bushing,
> > > Is there is an instruction step by step 
> > > On the website or some can help
> > > On 30 mk 1 1973
> > > --
> > > Joel Delamirandehttp://www.jdroofing.ca
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > --
> Joel Delamirandehttp://www.jdroofing.ca
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hey Joel,

We talked a little on the phone.  (Joel just bought a 1973 C&C 30 located on 
Lake Ontario near the entrance to the Welland Canal.)

Joel, How does the survey describe the rudder play?  Is it 1/4" play in rudder 
shaft?  Like if you pull the bottom tip of the rudder is moves 1/4" side to 
side?   Your boat's on a cradle on land, so you can remove it yourself, but 
there is much to take apart before dropping it, because you have wheel steering 
and will need to undo the cables and remove the quadrant.

Or does the survey specify play in the wheel like the cables need to be 
tensioned?

Edsonmarine.com has great technical manuals showing how their systems work.  
Not sure you have an Edson steerer, but they are all similar.


Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R



> On June 14, 2020 at 6:40 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Because there a play about 1/4”
> Specific questions how to take it apart 
> 
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 4:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Nope.  Ya just have to take it apart.  Is there a more 
> specific question?
> > 
> > The real question is why are you considering replacing the bushing? 
> >  They generally don't wear out.
> > 
> > Josh Muckley
> > S/V Sea Hawk 
> > 1989 C&C 37+
> > Solomons, MD
> > 
> > 
> > On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 16:49 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I have a wheel on my boat, I would like to 
> > take off the rudder  to change the bushing,
> > > Is there is an instruction step by step 
> > > On the website or some can help
> > > On 30 mk 1 1973
> > > --
> > > Joel Delamirandehttp://www.jdroofing.ca
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > --
> Joel Delamirandehttp://www.jdroofing.ca
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Oh yeah, I get it. Four very old B & G instruments on the port bulkhead for me.

But your solution looks fine and is completely out shown (out shined?) by the 
beautiful finish on the teak trim and hatch boards. 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOnCfBnU2tq1-LZI01LcvVEbGZKzf2Tp0lx_7Z2 


https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMYr08C0A1ezTXCCTzkQrIohP6zFtWjrPx1RoqG 


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:12 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Touche' had LARGE instruments when I bought it.  I think they were Kenyons.  
> Anyway, I hate to admit it but I just covered the holes with StarBoard 
> sandwiches and mounted the new instruments in the StarBoard.  See:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsSEdLX1h5eXJLUUU/view?usp=sharing 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know, kinda bad for a guy who did fiberglass and gelcoat repairs on 
> everybody else's boat.  Just never got around to filling the holes.  Mostly 
> because matching the headliner would be a pain.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Touche' had LARGE instruments when I bought it.  I think they were
Kenyons.  Anyway, I hate to admit it but I just covered the holes with
StarBoard sandwiches and mounted the new instruments in the StarBoard.  See:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsSEdLX1h5eXJLUUU/view?usp=sharing

Yeah, I know, kinda bad for a guy who did fiberglass and gelcoat repairs on
everybody else's boat.  Just never got around to filling the holes.  Mostly
because matching the headliner would be a pain.

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 10:29 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Listers,
>
> Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak
> nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and
> interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.
> Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other
> instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.
>
> So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular
> hole in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8”
> thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Play in the wheel?  Play in the rudder when pulled side to side?

If you are not more specific about which part you are trying to disassemble
then we/I really can't offer more help.  Sorry.

Josh

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 18:41 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Because there a play about 1/4”
> Specific questions how to take it apart
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 4:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Nope.  Ya just have to take it apart.  Is there a more specific question?
>>
>> The real question is why are you considering replacing the bushing?  They
>> generally don't wear out.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 16:49 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a wheel on my boat, I would like to take off the rudder  to
>>> change the bushing,
>>> Is there is an instruction step by step
>>> On the website or some can help
>>> On 30 mk 1 1973
>>> --
>>> Joel Delamirande
>>> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

 Because there a play about 1/4”
Specific questions how to take it apart

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 4:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Nope.  Ya just have to take it apart.  Is there a more specific question?
>
> The real question is why are you considering replacing the bushing?  They
> generally don't wear out.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 16:49 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a wheel on my boat, I would like to take off the rudder  to change
>> the bushing,
>> Is there is an instruction step by step
>> On the website or some can help
>> On 30 mk 1 1973
>> --
>> Joel Delamirande
>> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yep, the RWC engines usually have a lower temperature thermostat (and
associated sensors/alarms) so that there is absolutely no chance of
localize boiling inside the engine.  Boiling causes deposits in the engine
which can clog passages.  Lower temp also reduces the speed of corrosion.

FWC engines have a higher temp thermostat so that they can be more
efficient.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 18:12 David Risch via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I got one for you.  Bought a 40 that was a 3QM 30 from the lakes.   Came
> south here and was retrofitted with Sendure heat exchanger.
>
> So I buy the boat.  And immediately notice the temp sending unit is
> cracked.  Go to the parts counter and provide the engine model and get the
> part.
>
> Install the unit and notice the engine overheats a higher RPMs.  Start
> doing the overheating diagnosis dance.
>
> Fixed, or replaced everything.  Still over heating.  In desperatation I
> drop a temp sensor in the exchanger while running the boat hard to overheat
> her.
>
> "Overheats" at 140°.  It then hits me.  RWC engine model got me a RWC temp
> sensor which goes off at 140°.
>
> Switched it out.   Problem gone.
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Ronald B.
> Frerker via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 14, 2020 1:23:56 PM
> *To:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?
>
> Good to know the terms. I was aware of the different cooling mechanisms,
> but unaware of the terminology.
> Quite frankly I thought fresh water cooled referred to non-salt water.
> Thanks folks,
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
> On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 11:11:33 PM CDT, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Yes.  If you have a radiator cap and glycol coolant then it is freshwater
> cooled.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020, 23:30 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> So when the water from the engine, like my Universal, goes through a heat
> exchanger where lake/bay/ocean water is pumped to cool the engine water,
> that's referred to as FWC?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
> On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 02:41:09 PM CDT, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> FWC is fresh water cooled, RWC is raw water cooled. If you have a 2QM like
> I do, it is Raw Water Cooled – water from the lake/bay/ocean is pumped
> through the engine for cooling and merged with the exhaust and expelled.
>
>
>
> Gary 30-1
>
>
>
> Fro*m:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Ronald B.
> Frerker via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 13, 2020 2:52 PM
> *To:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?
>
>
>
> Pardon my ignorance, but what is FWC/RWC?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
> On Friday, June 12, 2020, 01:11:53 PM CDT, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I used to sail on a 34 that had the 2 cylinder Yanmar. That thing would
> shake the entire boat. Some had Atomic 4s I think, which are much smoother,
> but any original A4 that is not FWC is living on borrowed time at this
> point. Actually ANY RWC engine from the 80s not in a fresh water lake is.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
> and Maryann Read via CnC-List
>
> Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: John and Maryann Read 
>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?
>
>
>
> Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM
> which is just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major
> design or build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of
> course get a competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch
> cover had delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the
> balsa core, they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid
> glass around edges for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2
> screw holes in deck with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)
>
> Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.
> Races with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.
> 2 can easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high
> winds and seas well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?
> Contact off list if need anything else.
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 69

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

At least to me, the 33-1 looks a lot different below the waterline (more swept 
back keel) than the 34.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rob Ball via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 6:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rob Ball 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 69

The 33 was the first design I did from a blank sheet at a time when our 
reputation on the race course was slipping, so it was pretty stressful.  Turned 
out the 33 was a step up and we got our reputation back.  The 34 was to replace 
it with the same design BUT have standing headroom forward. It is very similar 
to the 33 below the waterline, but more freeboard and cabin to get more room.  
I didn’t really hear that it was tender, but I don’t always get enough feedback 
. . . . . 
Rob Ball.   C&C 34

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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Cosmetics aside, I filled in four holes on the cabin wall facing the cockpit 
that I assume once held analog instruments.  I cut plywood circles with a hole 
saw the same size as the holes I was filling, and used West System to epoxy 
them in place.  I was then able to cut the smaller holes needed to mount newer 
instruments in the same locations.  I used pieces of thin Starboard to cover 
over the work on the outside, so I didn't need to worry about how the repair 
looks.  The end result is that my new instruments are mounted on starboard, 
which looks fine.  It looks original to the boat.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 11:28 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

Hello Listers,

Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak 
nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other instruments, 
and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.

So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular hole 
in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” thick, and 
the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.

Thank you in advance.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[David Risch via CnC-List]

I got one for you.  Bought a 40 that was a 3QM 30 from the lakes.   Came south 
here and was retrofitted with Sendure heat exchanger.

So I buy the boat.  And immediately notice the temp sending unit is cracked.  
Go to the parts counter and provide the engine model and get the part.

Install the unit and notice the engine overheats a higher RPMs.  Start doing 
the overheating diagnosis dance.

Fixed, or replaced everything.  Still over heating.  In desperatation I drop a 
temp sensor in the exchanger while running the boat hard to overheat her.

"Overheats" at 140°.  It then hits me.  RWC engine model got me a RWC temp 
sensor which goes off at 140°.

Switched it out.   Problem gone.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 1:23:56 PM
To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

Good to know the terms. I was aware of the different cooling mechanisms, but 
unaware of the terminology.
Quite frankly I thought fresh water cooled referred to non-salt water.
Thanks folks,
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 11:11:33 PM CDT, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Yes.  If you have a radiator cap and glycol coolant then it is freshwater 
cooled.



On Sat, Jun 13, 2020, 23:30 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
So when the water from the engine, like my Universal, goes through a heat 
exchanger where lake/bay/ocean water is pumped to cool the engine water, that's 
referred to as FWC?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 02:41:09 PM CDT, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



FWC is fresh water cooled, RWC is raw water cooled. If you have a 2QM like I 
do, it is Raw Water Cooled – water from the lake/bay/ocean is pumped through 
the engine for cooling and merged with the exhaust and expelled.



Gary 30-1



From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 2:52 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker mailto:rbfrer...@yahoo.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?



Pardon my ignorance, but what is FWC/RWC?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

On Friday, June 12, 2020, 01:11:53 PM CDT, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:





I used to sail on a 34 that had the 2 cylinder Yanmar. That thing would shake 
the entire boat. Some had Atomic 4s I think, which are much smoother, but any 
original A4 that is not FWC is living on borrowed time at this point. Actually 
ANY RWC engine from the 80s not in a fresh water lake is.



Joe



-Original Message-

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of John and Maryann Read via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: John and Maryann Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com>>

Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?



Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which is 
just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design or 
build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around edges 
for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in deck 
with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)

Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas 
well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if 
need anything else.





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT







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Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Nope.  Ya just have to take it apart.  Is there a more specific question?

The real question is why are you considering replacing the bushing?  They
generally don't wear out.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 16:49 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a wheel on my boat, I would like to take off the rudder  to change
> the bushing,
> Is there is an instruction step by step
> On the website or some can help
> On 30 mk 1 1973
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Rudder removal

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

I have a wheel on my boat, I would like to take off the rudder  to change
the bushing,
Is there is an instruction step by step
On the website or some can help
On 30 mk 1 1973
-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

G10 is great stuff but I make up my own glass sheets.  I just lay up a
bunch of layers of glass/epoxy or glass/resin on a sheet of waxed paper.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 10:55 AM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> G-10 is a common premade pultruded eglass epoxy material also called
> garolite or FR4:
>
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/grade-g-10-garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/
>
> Very handy for repairs, backing plates that don’t corrode (use 1/4” or
> thicker), replacement core material in an area you will drill through, etc.
> you can make your own material by laying up glass and epoxy on a plate
> coated with release agent but but buying it is easier and it is tightly
> dimensioned In thickness.
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Good to know the terms. I was aware of the different cooling mechanisms, but 
unaware of the terminology.
Quite frankly I thought fresh water cooled referred to non-salt water.
Thanks folks,
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

 On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 11:11:33 PM CDT, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Yes.  If you have a radiator cap and glycol coolant then it is freshwater 
cooled.


On Sat, Jun 13, 2020, 23:30 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 So when the water from the engine, like my Universal, goes through a heat 
exchanger where lake/bay/ocean water is pumped to cool the engine water, that's 
referred to as FWC?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

 On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 02:41:09 PM CDT, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
FWC is fresh water cooled, RWC is raw water cooled. If you have a 2QM like I 
do, it is Raw Water Cooled – water from the lake/bay/ocean is pumped through 
the engine for cooling and merged with the exhaust and expelled.

  

Gary 30-1

  

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 2:52 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

  

Pardon my ignorance, but what is FWC/RWC?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

On Friday, June 12, 2020, 01:11:53 PM CDT, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote: 

  

  

I used to sail on a 34 that had the 2 cylinder Yanmar. That thing would shake 
the entire boat. Some had Atomic 4s I think, which are much smoother, but any 
original A4 that is not FWC is living on borrowed time at this point. Actually 
ANY RWC engine from the 80s not in a fresh water lake is.

  

Joe

  

-Original Message-

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: John and Maryann Read 

Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

  

Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which is 
just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design or 
build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around edges 
for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in deck 
with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)

Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas 
well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if 
need anything else.

  

  

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

  

  

  

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  

  

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  
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  ___

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Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I have mentioned this before I think - the 34 took a significant step 
backwards from the 35 MK I/II in how the keelbolts are backed up. The 
35s had thick backing plates and the 34 had washers. During a Bermuda 
Race a 34 was taking on so much water from the keel bolts they sailed 
directly from the finish to the lift. Her owner came aboard Coquina, saw 
the backing plates, and decided he needed some too! Something worth 
checking on and not real hard to fix if you aren't in the middle of the 
ocean.


Joe

Coquina C&C 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I second Mikes take.  My 34 has been a great relatively inexpensive cruising 
boat so far and I love having a boat that moves in light wind. We sail short 
handed too and don’t race so I tend to reef early but she will handle a blow 
just fine and with the full rig you can sail to windward pretty well (actually 
on all points) under headsail only when it is blowing.
It does have plenty of old boat issues and needs work and TLC but if you have 
fun with that it isn’t too bad.

Yes soft spots in the deck happen (Sailed with them for two years and just 
repaired this spring) and some leaks around the bulkhead connections but 
overall my impression is that it is a good quality production boat with the 
right compromise between interior and cockpit space and relatively underpriced 
compared to similar size boats.  Like Mike, my wife got on the 34 and despite 
the dirt and mildew cause it had been sitting for a few years she said this is 
the one.  We got her cleaned up and are improving things each year.  One 
drawback for cruising is no bow roller for the anchor.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34 CB
Lynn, MA

> On Jun 14, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Great story
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 9:41 AM Headgorilla via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I have owned and sailed my 1978 34' for the past 5 seasons and she was not 
>> what I was looking for originally, I was looking at the 35's. Skywalker was 
>> a bit unique in that she was built for a fellow who raced her in the UK so 
>> she is a bit of a "winch farm" as I have had some admirers refer to her as 
>> :). 
>> 
>> She sails like a dream, great in the light wind, decent in the middle and 
>> very stable in heavy (I have found) as I have been caught in some ugly wind 
>> here and there in the Northeast. mine has a tiller (1st owners choice) so I 
>> originally was disappointed as I wanted to have a "big wheel" :), however 
>> very soon after sailing her I found that as big as she is, even with my 150% 
>> up she sails like a Sunfish and I tack as fast. I have only launched the 
>> symmetrical spinnaker once in light wind 5-8 and she was fabulous, but since 
>> it is just my wife and I, I have no desire to use it in anything more than 
>> that
>> 
>> Hull is very solid, I have a soft spot or two in the decks and I fix them as 
>> I go along but it comes with the age, besides its just my wife and I and she 
>> is only 108lbs so its not like I have a crew of guys stomping around up 
>> there, we have no cabin leaks although the toe-rail had some but thanks to 
>> Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack cure (thanks Dennis) they no longer are a 
>> problem.
>> 
>> We have the original A4 gas engine which was redone by Moyer Marine in 2009, 
>> I find the boat sails so well I do not use it too much and we do a fair 
>> amount of distance in our boat. To be honest I prefer the gas engine as I do 
>> not care for the diesel smell or exhaust. When shopping boats my wife turned 
>> her nose up at everything 35's, Bristols, Cats, etc...….we saw our 34' on a 
>> rainy cold day in October, it was on the end of a dock blowing 25mph and we 
>> had to jump just to get on her.we were on her 5 minutes and my wife said 
>> "buy her".
>> 
>> I think the hardest part of my ownership of my 34' is telling my wife its 
>> time to go home.
>> 
>> Buy the 34 and sail, just sail
>> 
>> Mike Dolan
>> 1978 34' C&C Skywalker
>> Southold, NY
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Joel Delamirande
> 
> www.jdroofing.ca
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

G-10 is a common premade pultruded eglass epoxy material also called garolite 
or FR4:

https://www.mcmaster.com/grade-g-10-garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/

Very handy for repairs, backing plates that don’t corrode (use 1/4” or 
thicker), replacement core material in an area you will drill through, etc. you 
can make your own material by laying up glass and epoxy on a plate coated with 
release agent but but buying it is easier and it is tightly dimensioned In 
thickness. I keep a bunch of different thicknesses on hand. Cuts with a cut off 
wheel on the grinder or the circular saw (dulls the blade). Sand the faces 
before bonding. 
Nathan

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper

> On Jun 14, 2020, at 9:26 AM, Neil Andersen  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> G10??
> 
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nathan Post via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 6:51:51 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Nathan Post 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes
>  
> Randy,
> I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of my 
> cockpit that wasn’t working.  My strategy was to use an angle grinder to 
> taper the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed 
> glass on an angle all around the hole.  Then I took a piece of roughly 0.1” 
> thick g10 that was bigger then the hole and glued it in behind.  First sand 
> the G10 with course grit paper, clean with acetone and then use a fast 
> setting adhesive (I used 3M 8805NS) and tape in place until set.  In your 
> case you need to get it between the liner and the deck laminate so if you 
> don’t have access from elsewhere you may need to do it in more than one 
> piece. Then just use masking tape on the back of the seam when you go to 
> laminate glass in. Once the g10 is bonded and cured you can wet lay glass 
> fabric in to fill the hole.  use slow epoxy and orienting the layers in 
> different directions. Doesn’t matter if the glass goes slightly beyond the 
> hole- you can sand it off later. When that is cured sand off areas that stick 
> out using a large orbital sander with course grit and fill areas that are not 
> thick enough with fairing compound. Sand again to 120 grit. Prime and paint 
> or gel coat to finish.
> 
> You may want to stick with a teak or starboard cover plate on the inside as I 
> think it will be harder to match the liner well and if you put instruments in 
> you may want access to wire the backside anyway.
> 
> - -
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 
> > On Jun 13, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Hello Listers,
> > 
> > Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak 
> > nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
> > interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
> > Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other 
> > instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.
> > 
> > So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular 
> > hole in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” 
> > thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.
> > 
> > Thank you in advance.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > Randy Stafford
> > S/V Grenadine
> > C&C 30 MK I #79
> > Ken Caryl, CO
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> > every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> > PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Great story

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 9:41 AM Headgorilla via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have owned and sailed my 1978 34' for the past 5 seasons and she was not
> what I was looking for originally, I was looking at the 35's. Skywalker was
> a bit unique in that she was built for a fellow who raced her in the UK so
> she is a bit of a "winch farm" as I have had some admirers refer to her as
> :).
>
> She sails like a dream, great in the light wind, decent in the middle and
> very stable in heavy (I have found) as I have been caught in some ugly wind
> here and there in the Northeast. mine has a tiller (1st owners choice) so I
> originally was disappointed as I wanted to have a "big wheel" :), however
> very soon after sailing her I found that as big as she is, even with my
> 150% up she sails like a Sunfish and I tack as fast. I have only launched
> the symmetrical spinnaker once in light wind 5-8 and she was fabulous, but
> since it is just my wife and I, I have no desire to use it in anything more
> than that
>
> Hull is very solid, I have a soft spot or two in the decks and I fix them
> as I go along but it comes with the age, besides its just my wife and I and
> she is only 108lbs so its not like I have a crew of guys stomping around up
> there, we have no cabin leaks although the toe-rail had some but thanks to
> Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack cure (thanks Dennis) they no longer are a
> problem.
>
> We have the original A4 gas engine which was redone by Moyer Marine in
> 2009, I find the boat sails so well I do not use it too much and we do a
> fair amount of distance in our boat. To be honest I prefer the gas engine
> as I do not care for the diesel smell or exhaust. When shopping boats my
> wife turned her nose up at everything 35's, Bristols, Cats, etc...….we saw
> our 34' on a rainy cold day in October, it was on the end of a dock blowing
> 25mph and we had to jump just to get on her.we were on her 5 minutes
> and my wife said "buy her".
>
> I think the hardest part of my ownership of my 34' is telling my wife its
> time to go home.
>
> Buy the 34 and sail, just sail
>
> Mike Dolan
> 1978 34' C&C Skywalker
> Southold, NY
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Headgorilla via CnC-List]

I have owned and sailed my 1978 34' for the past 5 seasons and she was not what 
I was looking for originally, I was looking at the 35's. Skywalker was a bit 
unique in that she was built for a fellow who raced her in the UK so she is a 
bit of a "winch farm" as I have had some admirers refer to her as :). 
She sails like a dream, great in the light wind, decent in the middle and very 
stable in heavy (I have found) as I have been caught in some ugly wind here and 
there in the Northeast. mine has a tiller (1st owners choice) so I originally 
was disappointed as I wanted to have a "big wheel" :), however very soon after 
sailing her I found that as big as she is, even with my 150% up she sails like 
a Sunfish and I tack as fast. I have only launched the symmetrical spinnaker 
once in light wind 5-8 and she was fabulous, but since it is just my wife and 
I, I have no desire to use it in anything more than that
Hull is very solid, I have a soft spot or two in the decks and I fix them as I 
go along but it comes with the age, besides its just my wife and I and she is 
only 108lbs so its not like I have a crew of guys stomping around up there, we 
have no cabin leaks although the toe-rail had some but thanks to Capt Tolley's 
Creeping Crack cure (thanks Dennis) they no longer are a problem.
We have the original A4 gas engine which was redone by Moyer Marine in 2009, I 
find the boat sails so well I do not use it too much and we do a fair amount of 
distance in our boat. To be honest I prefer the gas engine as I do not care for 
the diesel smell or exhaust. When shopping boats my wife turned her nose up at 
everything 35's, Bristols, Cats, etc...….we saw our 34' on a rainy cold day in 
October, it was on the end of a dock blowing 25mph and we had to jump just to 
get on her.we were on her 5 minutes and my wife said "buy her".
I think the hardest part of my ownership of my 34' is telling my wife its time 
to go home.
Buy the 34 and sail, just sail
Mike Dolan1978 34' C&C SkywalkerSouthold, NY


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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

G10??

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nathan Post via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 6:51:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Nathan Post 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

Randy,
I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of my 
cockpit that wasn’t working.  My strategy was to use an angle grinder to taper 
the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed glass on 
an angle all around the hole.  Then I took a piece of roughly 0.1” thick g10 
that was bigger then the hole and glued it in behind.  First sand the G10 with 
course grit paper, clean with acetone and then use a fast setting adhesive (I 
used 3M 8805NS) and tape in place until set.  In your case you need to get it 
between the liner and the deck laminate so if you don’t have access from 
elsewhere you may need to do it in more than one piece. Then just use masking 
tape on the back of the seam when you go to laminate glass in. Once the g10 is 
bonded and cured you can wet lay glass fabric in to fill the hole.  use slow 
epoxy and orienting the layers in different directions. Doesn’t matter if the 
glass goes slightly beyond the hole- you can sand it off later. When that is 
cured sand off areas that stick out using a large orbital sander with course 
grit and fill areas that are not thick enough with fairing compound. Sand again 
to 120 grit. Prime and paint or gel coat to finish.

You may want to stick with a teak or starboard cover plate on the inside as I 
think it will be harder to match the liner well and if you put instruments in 
you may want access to wire the backside anyway.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper

> On Jun 13, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak 
> nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
> interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
> Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other 
> instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.
>
> So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular 
> hole in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” 
> thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Randy,
I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of my 
cockpit that wasn’t working.  My strategy was to use an angle grinder to taper 
the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed glass on 
an angle all around the hole.  Then I took a piece of roughly 0.1” thick g10 
that was bigger then the hole and glued it in behind.  First sand the G10 with 
course grit paper, clean with acetone and then use a fast setting adhesive (I 
used 3M 8805NS) and tape in place until set.  In your case you need to get it 
between the liner and the deck laminate so if you don’t have access from 
elsewhere you may need to do it in more than one piece. Then just use masking 
tape on the back of the seam when you go to laminate glass in. Once the g10 is 
bonded and cured you can wet lay glass fabric in to fill the hole.  use slow 
epoxy and orienting the layers in different directions. Doesn’t matter if the 
glass goes slightly beyond the hole- you can sand it off later. When that is 
cured sand off areas that stick out using a large orbital sander with course 
grit and fill areas that are not thick enough with fairing compound. Sand again 
to 120 grit. Prime and paint or gel coat to finish.

You may want to stick with a teak or starboard cover plate on the inside as I 
think it will be harder to match the liner well and if you put instruments in 
you may want access to wire the backside anyway.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper

> On Jun 13, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Listers,
> 
> Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak 
> nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
> interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
> Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other 
> instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.
> 
> So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular 
> hole in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” 
> thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray