Re: Stus-List ACR question (again!)

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

If you don’t have any charging sources at anchor, there is no reason for it to 
be on. 

On, without the batteries combined, it draws 15mA or 0.015 amps. 

Each day, it’ll take .36 amps. In a week, it’ll be 2.5 amps. After 8 weeks 
it’ll be just over 20 amps. Not a whole lot. If your bank is, say, 300A, that’s 
around 7%. 

That’s assuming that’s the only load. Odds are you have a automatic bilge pump 
and other drains going on. 

I would have turned it off, but you’ll probably be OK. 

PS - consider getting a small solar panel to sit on top of a hatch. That’ll 
keep all fine and the ACR will keep both banks topped off. Even a little 5W 
will work. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 13, 2020, at 8:46 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:

It draws a small amount of power. I am not sure if you would notice, but I 
would turn it off for an 8 week stay.


Joe

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

My 1995 36 XL was delivered with a hydraulic backstay which I have used 
regularly with one trip to the local hydraulic shop to replace the seals 
(~$250). Of course, the stern steps were likely designed to withstand the 
loading this can produce--if not it was over-designed since I have never had an 
issue with its attachment to the hull.
I think it is an elegant solution compared to the blocks and tackle necessary 
to rig a mechanically adjustable backstay.
If I were to add such a backstay and uncertain of the strength of an attachment 
point, I would simply spread the load with a SS single or Y-shaped bar attached 
to the stern with a solid and relatively large backing plate to which the SS 
bar is through bolted. The plate could be starboard of sufficient thickness (at 
least 1/2") or some solid wood (I like red oak) whose area is such to 
generously spread the load. 
Keep in mind that the load is not perpendicular to the stern but pretty close 
to tangential and depending on your mast cross section, it should bend with 
only about 1000-2000 lbs of gauge pressure. OTOH if your mast is 'telephone 
pole' like, you aren't going to bend it anyway in which case I would 
'forgetaboutit'.
Charlie NelsonWater PhantomC&C 36 XL/kcb





-Original Message-
From: Wade Glew via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Wade Glew 
Sent: Thu, Aug 13, 2020 5:27 pm
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

Dear Listers,
As many of you know, the 33 MK II has a single rod backstay which terminates 
approximately in the centre of the reverse transom.   I don't have a hydraulic 
backstay tensioner.  Instead there is a small (perhaps 6") diameter wheel in 
the backstay which can be turned by hand (rather laboriously) to tighten or 
loosen the backstay (which is quite impossible when the sails are loaded).  I'm 
not really a racer (and hydraulics are expensive) so have pondered the wisdom 
of swaging a fitting on the rod backstay and converting it to a split backstay 
with a Johnson car and blocks to have a manual tensioning system.   This would 
increase somewhat the angle of the backstay and present the issue of finding 
spots on the hull or deck to anchor the backstay that would have sufficient 
strength.   I have no idea if this would drastically alter the dynamics of the 
sail plan or the boat altogether.  I also don't know where on the hull might 
have sufficient strength to support the backstay attachment.  Is this a bad 
idea?Would anyone have any thoughts?  Many thanks ..
WadeOh Boy 33 MK IILake of the 
Woods___

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Re: Stus-List ACR question (again!)

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

It draws a small amount of power. I am not sure if you would notice, but 
I would turn it off for an 8 week stay.



Joe

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List ACR question (again!)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Assuming I understand your question correctly - Leave the ACR off.  This
ensures that if one of the batteries has a lingering load that it won't
drain both batteries.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020, 20:30 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I moved my boat to a nearby anchorage to avoid having to drive to the
> marina to do the same for every storm coming this August/September. (My
> club requires that boats be out of their slips when a hurricane warning is
> issued for our county in NC).
>
> Since I don't have solar/wind, at anchor there is no charging source for
> my batteries (start and house), which are installed with an ACR.
>
> I am uncertain whether I should have switched the ACR OFF (or not) but I
> decided to leave it in its normal ON position when I left the boat,
> assuming that it draws very little current, if any, when no charge source
> is available.
>
> I won't be back to the boat until the middle of September (or later
> depending on the storms) so it will have been at anchor for about 6-8
> weeks.
>
> My question is should I have turned the ACR OFF or is it OK (for 8 weeks
> or so) in the ON position without a charging source?
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List ACR question (again!)

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I'd have turned it off, but as you say it is low draw so probably no 
foul.  Let us know in 8 weeks! :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-08-13 9:29 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I moved my boat to a nearby anchorage to avoid having to drive to the 
marina to do the same for every storm coming this August/September. 
(My club requires that boats be out of their slips when a hurricane 
warning is issued for our county in NC).


Since I don't have solar/wind, at anchor there is no charging source 
for my batteries (start and house), which are installed with an ACR.


I am uncertain whether I should have switched the ACR OFF (or not) but 
I decided to leave it in its normal ON position when I left the boat, 
assuming that it draws very little current, if any, when no charge 
source is available.


I won't be back to the boat until the middle of September (or later 
depending on the storms) so it will have been at anchor for about 6-8 
weeks.


My question is should I have turned the ACR OFF or is it OK (for 8 
weeks or so) in the ON position without a charging source?


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb







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Stus-List ACR question (again!)

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I moved my boat to a nearby anchorage to avoid having to drive to the marina to 
do the same for every storm coming this August/September. (My club requires 
that boats be out of their slips when a hurricane warning is issued for our 
county in NC).
Since I don't have solar/wind, at anchor there is no charging source for my 
batteries (start and house), which are installed with an ACR.
I am uncertain whether I should have switched the ACR OFF (or not) but I 
decided to leave it in its normal ON position when I left the boat, assuming 
that it draws very little current, if any, when no charge source is available. 
I won't be back to the boat until the middle of September (or later depending 
on the storms) so it will have been at anchor for about 6-8 weeks. 
My question is should I have turned the ACR OFF or is it OK (for 8 weeks or so) 
in the ON position without a charging source?
Charlie NelsonWater PhantomC&C 36 XL/kcb





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Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

I have the hydraulic backstay on my ‘85 33/2, I believe I saw a late model 33/2 
for sale with a split backstay, was surprised to see it, but wasn’t enough 
visible in the pictures to figure out what/how it was done or even if it was 
original to the boat or year of manufacture as I remember
Brad
Pulse, C&C 33/2 1985
Lake Huron

~Anything worth doing requires sails~
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

The 33-LLP was one o& 5he first C&C’s to use a frame carrying the loads, stays, 
keel, engine, and  a skin for the hull - Rob Ball may correct me on this!

So I would think it would take some engineering to create strong enough 
attachment points for your changes. I would be looking at lubricating the wheel 
system to make it easier to use, or going to a hydraulics one.

Dave is correct on the 33 being slippery... we can keep up with our Catalina 42 
friends most of the  time, even with the engine! Maybe going to a Beta 25 helps?



Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Wade Glew via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 5:27:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Wade Glew 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

Dear Listers,

As many of you know, the 33 MK II has a single rod backstay which terminates 
approximately in the centre of the reverse transom.   I don't have a hydraulic 
backstay tensioner.  Instead there is a small (perhaps 6") diameter wheel in 
the backstay which can be turned by hand (rather laboriously) to tighten or 
loosen the backstay (which is quite impossible when the sails are loaded).  I'm 
not really a racer (and hydraulics are expensive) so have pondered the wisdom 
of swaging a fitting on the rod backstay and converting it to a split backstay 
with a Johnson car and blocks to have a manual tensioning system.   This would 
increase somewhat the angle of the backstay and present the issue of finding 
spots on the hull or deck to anchor the backstay that would have sufficient 
strength.   I have no idea if this would drastically alter the dynamics of the 
sail plan or the boat altogether.  I also don't know where on the hull might 
have sufficient strength to support the backstay attachment.  Is this a bad 
idea?
Would anyone have any thoughts?  Many thanks ..

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
Lake of the Woods
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Wade - I have a 33-2 without a tensioning wheel, just yer basic turnbuckle.  I 
am easily able to tighten it to the point where the cabin door binds.  (I then 
back it off a bit.).Not sure about your cohort up there but in the fun 
contests here, the 33-2 easily outruns most of its peers and many larger boats. 
 in my case at least it’s the skipper that needs the most tuning to go faster.  
The only reason i can think of changing this arrangement (and I won’t) is that 
the backstay is in the way of boarding via the stern ladder, which can be a 
problem for all but the narrowest crew.  
To the other poster’s point - my full PHRF mainsail already fouls the backstay. 
 As to reinforcing the transom - you would need a team of highly skilled 
toddlers to work in that space!
Finally and IMO only
I’m not sure what one would really gain by doing this, especially for mostly 
recreational use.  The cost would make a major dent in any number of other 
upgrades you might enjoy more.  (My new mainsail was a real eye opener as an 
example)
Enjoy the warm weeks!
Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2020, at 5:27 PM, Wade Glew  wrote:
> 
> 
> Dear Listers,
> 
> As many of you know, the 33 MK II has a single rod backstay which terminates 
> approximately in the centre of the reverse transom.   I don't have a 
> hydraulic backstay tensioner.  Instead there is a small (perhaps 6") diameter 
> wheel in the backstay which can be turned by hand (rather laboriously) to 
> tighten or loosen the backstay (which is quite impossible when the sails are 
> loaded).  I'm not really a racer (and hydraulics are expensive) so have 
> pondered the wisdom of swaging a fitting on the rod backstay and converting 
> it to a split backstay with a Johnson car and blocks to have a manual 
> tensioning system.   This would increase somewhat the angle of the backstay 
> and present the issue of finding spots on the hull or deck to anchor the 
> backstay that would have sufficient strength.   I have no idea if this would 
> drastically alter the dynamics of the sail plan or the boat altogether.  I 
> also don't know where on the hull might have sufficient strength to support 
> the backstay attachment.  Is this a bad idea?
> Would anyone have any thoughts?  Many thanks ..
> 
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
> Lake of the Woods

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I think after you get through with all that, a 5 or 6 hundred dollar hydraulic 
backstay tensioner on EBay would look kind of cheap.

Sometimes trying to save a few bucks ends up costing several bucks.

 

Just my opinion, from having done the same. 

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 5:32 PM
To: C&C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

 

If you do that, make sure the leech of the main will clear the backstay.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

 

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 2:28 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dear Listers,

 

As many of you know, the 33 MK II has a single rod backstay which terminates 
approximately in the centre of the reverse transom.   I don't have a hydraulic 
backstay tensioner.  Instead there is a small (perhaps 6") diameter wheel in 
the backstay which can be turned by hand (rather laboriously) to tighten or 
loosen the backstay (which is quite impossible when the sails are loaded).  I'm 
not really a racer (and hydraulics are expensive) so have pondered the wisdom 
of swaging a fitting on the rod backstay and converting it to a split backstay 
with a Johnson car and blocks to have a manual tensioning system.   This would 
increase somewhat the angle of the backstay and present the issue of finding 
spots on the hull or deck to anchor the backstay that would have sufficient 
strength.   I have no idea if this would drastically alter the dynamics of the 
sail plan or the boat altogether.  I also don't know where on the hull might 
have sufficient strength to support the backstay attachment.  Is this a bad 
idea?

Would anyone have any thoughts?  Many thanks ..

 

Wade

Oh Boy 33 MK II

Lake of the Woods

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you do that, make sure the leech of the main will clear the backstay.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 2:28 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dear Listers,
>
> As many of you know, the 33 MK II has a single rod backstay which
> terminates approximately in the centre of the reverse transom.   I don't
> have a hydraulic backstay tensioner.  Instead there is a small (perhaps 6")
> diameter wheel in the backstay which can be turned by hand (rather
> laboriously) to tighten or loosen the backstay (which is quite impossible
> when the sails are loaded).  I'm not really a racer (and hydraulics are
> expensive) so have pondered the wisdom of swaging a fitting on the rod
> backstay and converting it to a split backstay with a Johnson car and
> blocks to have a manual tensioning system.   This would increase somewhat
> the angle of the backstay and present the issue of finding spots on the
> hull or deck to anchor the backstay that would have sufficient strength.
>  I have no idea if this would drastically alter the dynamics of the sail
> plan or the boat altogether.  I also don't know where on the hull might
> have sufficient strength to support the backstay attachment.  Is this a bad
> idea?
> Would anyone have any thoughts?  Many thanks ..
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
> Lake of the Woods
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-yCf61AoQVFcp0eMQDItvpuULSVGjT1MOI24wtIZLT02CRuINrC-Jl3I4JNpaKaBbk8$
>
>
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Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Dear Listers,

As many of you know, the 33 MK II has a single rod backstay which
terminates approximately in the centre of the reverse transom.   I don't
have a hydraulic backstay tensioner.  Instead there is a small (perhaps 6")
diameter wheel in the backstay which can be turned by hand (rather
laboriously) to tighten or loosen the backstay (which is quite impossible
when the sails are loaded).  I'm not really a racer (and hydraulics are
expensive) so have pondered the wisdom of swaging a fitting on the rod
backstay and converting it to a split backstay with a Johnson car and
blocks to have a manual tensioning system.   This would increase somewhat
the angle of the backstay and present the issue of finding spots on the
hull or deck to anchor the backstay that would have sufficient strength.
 I have no idea if this would drastically alter the dynamics of the sail
plan or the boat altogether.  I also don't know where on the hull might
have sufficient strength to support the backstay attachment.  Is this a bad
idea?
Would anyone have any thoughts?  Many thanks ..

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
Lake of the Woods
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Re: Stus-List FOR SALE: C&C Mark I in Port Angeles, WA $16,000

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

I love the color of that boat
There a guy in Toronto selling his all renovated
For 35000

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 12:06 PM Walker Mellema via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm moving up to a bigger boat and so I must sell my C&C 30 Mark I. The
> Endeavour was a great first boat for me and I've added some upgrades in the
> 3 years I've owned her. She is rigged for single handed sailing and in good
> condition. She is currently located in Port Angeles, WA and priced to sell.
>
> You can see all the details in my Craigslist posting here:
> https://olympic.craigslist.org/boa/d/port-angeles-cc-30-mark-for-sail/7159346912.html
>
> Please contact me if you have any questions.
>
> Regards,
>
> Walker Mellema
> 360-565-6835
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

There have been a couple of threads here on "dimples" on the topsides of
the earlier models, in particular the 32's.  My 35-1 had dimples at the
braces for the upper shrouds.  It also had a slight pattern of roving
showing also.  I sanded these blemishes out when I had the topsides
repainted.

I've never tried to correlate them to hydraulic backstays.  I always
attributed it to "post cure shrinkage".  Whether that's actually a thing or
not, I don't know but it sounds good.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 11:30 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> To your point about hydraulic backstay adjusters - when last boat shopping
> I learned to sight along the topsides and look for hull buckling in the
> area of the shrouds - some was quite pronounced.   This was an issue with
> several late ‘60s/early 70s boats I looked at, and there seemed to be a
> strong correlation with the use of the hydraulic adjuster.
>
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Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

Anchovy has no tangs.

Rick Bushie 30-1 #1

Sent from my iPhone


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Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

To your point about hydraulic backstay adjusters - when last boat shopping I 
learned to sight along the topsides and look for hull buckling in the area of 
the shrouds - some was quite pronounced.   This was an issue with several late 
‘60s/early 70s boats I looked at, and there seemed to be a strong correlation 
with the use of the hydraulic adjuster.  I would also expect these boats did 
not have the mast/deck hooks being discussed.  

You mention deck tabbing also - on my 33-2 hull #61, (mar ‘85) the hanging 
locker bulkheads were not tanned to the deck, however sometime after that, it 
seems to have been done at the factory.  I tabbed mine and the boat is 
noticeably quieter and the deck stiffer.Same generation and similar build 
to the 35-3.  

For anyone interested:
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/07/bulkheaddeck-reinforcement-at-hanging.html?m=1

On the mast hooks - what was not mentioned is that the alignment of the mast 
holes and final resting point of the hooks can be fine-tuned by elevating the 
mast with the addition of shims in the mast step.

Dave 

(And Rob - your expertise and participation in this group is greatly 
appreciated - thanks!)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 12, 2020, at 9:59 AM, Rob Ball  wrote:
> 
> 
> Bill has it right . . . . . The shrouds and mast compression are the worry . 
> . .
> On serious race boats (without a bulkhead at the mast) we had a vertical rod 
> beside the mast and even a diagonal strut from the mast step to the shrouds 
> to counteract the load.
> I can’t remember the original 35 in this regard, but we didn’t have big 
> hydraulic backstays back then either . . . . . so I worry about the 35  . . . 
> .
> On the other hand, it has survived this long  . . . . so . . . . .
> After the new 35 (Mk III) we tabbed the bulkheads to the deck – which does 
> the job, but before that boat production, the deck just floated above the 
> bulkheads  . . . .
> Rob Ball
> C&C 34
> Escapade
>  
>  
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Re: Stus-List FOR SALE: C&C Mark I in Port Angeles, WA $16,000

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Walker,

What’s your new boat?  I’m a bit of a C&C junkie, we’ve had a 27 and now a 
35-II, so I sent your email out to the cruising club.

Hope that helps, Lee


> On Aug 13, 2020, at 9:05 01AM, Walker Mellema via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> I'm moving up to a bigger boat and so I must sell my C&C 30 Mark I. The 
> Endeavour was a great first boat for me and I've added some upgrades in the 3 
> years I've owned her. She is rigged for single handed sailing and in good 
> condition. She is currently located in Port Angeles, WA and priced to sell.
> 
> You can see all the details in my Craigslist posting here: 
> https://olympic.craigslist.org/boa/d/port-angeles-cc-30-mark-for-sail/7159346912.html
>  
> 
> 
> Please contact me if you have any questions.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Walker Mellema
> 360-565-6835
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

__
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C&C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

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Stus-List FOR SALE: C&C Mark I in Port Angeles, WA $16,000

[Walker Mellema via CnC-List]

Hi Folks,

I'm moving up to a bigger boat and so I must sell my C&C 30 Mark I. The
Endeavour was a great first boat for me and I've added some upgrades in the
3 years I've owned her. She is rigged for single handed sailing and in good
condition. She is currently located in Port Angeles, WA and priced to sell.

You can see all the details in my Craigslist posting here:
https://olympic.craigslist.org/boa/d/port-angeles-cc-30-mark-for-sail/7159346912.html

Please contact me if you have any questions.

Regards,

Walker Mellema
360-565-6835
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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