Stus-List Re: Suez Canal

[Doug Robinson via CnC-List]

I would assume the  Suez pilot would be in controlbut the article on 
gCaptain indicated they had mechanical problems as well



On 3/24/21 5:15 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
I have been following the story.   I feel kind of bad for master.  
 Sure we all run aground at some point but not only grounding the ship 
but jamming it diagonally across the Canal.  Not something I would 
want on my resume.


Adam
C 36
Pictou NS

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: filling in a through-hull hole

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

 CHARLES  wrote:

> The number of layers needed is driven by the weight of the cloth chosen
> and how thick the hull is there.  I'd use 1708 as it is so easy to work
> with.  It's two bias layers of 8oz roving stitched to some 1 1/2 oz glass
> mat.  Measure the thickness of the hull after removing the thru-hull.
> Multiply that by 12 to mark a circle around the hole.  Then grind a bevel
> from the hole out to the mark.  Cover the hole from the inside with some
> mylar sheet, taped tight to the surface.
>
>
I've done a number of these and always lay up a layer of glass on the
inside -- instead of taping mylar as Charls suggests -- and let it set
before working from the outside.  Just makes me feel better that way. Other
than that, I pretty much follow his suggestion as written. But then I grind
it after it sets just deep enough that I can fill and fair with a thin
layer of gelcoat. I usually like to work with WEST epoxy, but gelcoat
doesn't adhere well to epoxy, so I use polyester resin for those jobs.

Jim Hesketh
C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Suez Canal

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I tried it in France, but the canal was about 10' wider than the boat.  
It was on purpose though, we were turning around, and was successful...  
I didn't feel like trying to reverse a canal boat 1/2 a mile back... and 
my brother said "you can't turn around here!"...  hold my wine...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2021-03-24 7:56 p.m., Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


Something we don’t have to deal with often – if the canal is barely 
wider than the boat, if you have a crab angle due to wind eventually 
you are wider than the canal is.


Joe

*From:*Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, March 24, 2021 5:15 PM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Adam Hayden 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Suez Canal

I have been following the story.   I feel kind of bad for master.  
 Sure we all run aground at some point but not only grounding the ship 
but jamming it diagonally across the Canal.   Not something I would 
want on my resume.


Adam

C 36

Pictou NS

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: filling in a through-hull hole

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks, Chuck. In the case of my DST-800, I discovered the old unit was
only 1/8" larger, so I am going to re-use the hole and install with 4200.
But I may need to fill some other holes as I go along, this is good info.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:53 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> The number of layers needed is driven by the weight of the cloth chosen
> and how thick the hull is there.  I'd use 1708 as it is so easy to work
> with.  It's two bias layers of 8oz roving stitched to some 1 1/2 oz glass
> mat.  Measure the thickness of the hull after removing the thru-hull.
> Multiply that by 12 to mark a circle around the hole.  Then grind a bevel
> from the hole out to the mark.  Cover the hole from the inside with some
> mylar sheet, taped tight to the surface.
>
> IIRC, 5 layers of 1708 yielded about 3/16" thickness, four or five layers
> is max I would lay up, then wait till it's tacky like an hour or so.  Then
> lay up four or five more layers and wait for it to cool and get tacky and
> lay up more layers.  I use peelply to draw off the excess resin with a fin
> roller and if you let it cure overnight with peelply, you can avoid sanding
> before applying more layers the next day.  Repeat till the repair is higher
> than the surrounding surface and let it cure and grind flush.
>
> Here is a good video that shows some good tips for West System and 1708.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSKbF6jGJKw=2009s
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 03/24/2021 10:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a
> through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy?  Some of
> mine have limited access on the inside for creating a taper.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:59 AM Dave S via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to one - I did the
> same and removed my overboard discharge at the same time.
>
> Why not eliminate the unused holes?  It needs to be done properly for sure
> but it’s not difficult.
>
> Some pics here:
>
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1
>
> Dave
> 33-2
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Suez Canal

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Something we don't have to deal with often - if the canal is barely wider
than the boat, if you have a crab angle due to wind eventually you are wider
than the canal is. 

Joe

 

From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2021 5:15 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Suez Canal

 

I have been following the story.   I feel kind of bad for master.   Sure we
all run aground at some point but not only grounding the ship but jamming it
diagonally across the Canal.   Not something I would want on my resume.

 

Adam

C 36

Pictou NS

 

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Suez Canal

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

I have been following the story.   I feel kind of bad for master.   Sure we all 
run aground at some point but not only grounding the ship but jamming it 
diagonally across the Canal.   Not something I would want on my resume.

Adam
C 36
Pictou NS

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Suez Canal

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

https://www.nytimes.com/2021/03/24/world/middleeast/suez-canal-blocked-ship.html

 

Not C related, but certainly Sea-Shanty-worthy – 

Is anyone else following this cluster going on in the Suez Canal?

This is the first time I have ever heard of a Ship grounding due to a sand 
storm! 

You should see the ships piled up on both sides, Med and Red on 
marinetraffic.com

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Reuse Through-Hull or Cut New?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I ground the exterior edges to taper toward the hole then made a 
correspondingly tapered patch using three (iirc- might have been four, depends 
on the hull thickness) layers of biaxial stitch mat.   Each layer progressively 
larger, the largest the circumference of the ground area.  
I laid these up on a sheet of waxed paper, smallest on top, wetted out with 
epoxy, then  applied it like a bandage to the prepared area.I had 
pre-painted the prepped area with unfilled epoxy.
Once in place, a consolidating roller was used to ensure that any excess epoxy 
resin was displaced by glass- making for the densest possible layup. 
I had also prepped the interior by sanding etc.  No taper.  I put a large patch 
over that.  I think two layers.  This was done before the exterior had fully  
cured to ensure a good wet-on-wet bond.  I may have skimmed a very thin layer 
of glass filled epoxy putty over the interior first to help prevent  any small 
voids around the edge of the hole. 
The interior patch was larger and also covered the through-hull hole I intended 
to use, (so - stronger) and after re-boring that hole I added a reinforcing 
ring of glass inside, bedded in epoxy putty.  
I have no concern at all about the integrity of any of this stuff. The 
materials are amazingly strong and the work isn’t that difficult.  The hull is 
now stronger in this area for sure.  
Some of the details on the blog.
Best of luck.  

Dave 33-2





Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2021, at 10:55 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a 
> through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy?  Some of 
> mine have limited access on the inside for creating a taper.
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:59 AM Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to one - I did the 
>> same and removed my overboard discharge at the same time.  
>> 
>> Why not eliminate the unused holes?  It needs to be done properly for sure 
>> but it’s not difficult.  
>> 
>> Some pics here:
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1
>> 
>> Dave 
>> 33-2
>> 
>> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List filling in a through-hull hole

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

The number of layers needed is driven by the weight of the cloth chosen and how 
thick the hull is there.  I'd use 1708 as it is so easy to work with.  It's two 
bias layers of 8oz roving stitched to some 1 1/2 oz glass mat.  Measure the 
thickness of the hull after removing the thru-hull.  Multiply that by 12 to 
mark a circle around the hole.  Then grind a bevel from the hole out to the 
mark.  Cover the hole from the inside with some mylar sheet, taped tight to the 
surface.

IIRC, 5 layers of 1708 yielded about 3/16" thickness, four or five layers is 
max I would lay up, then wait till it's tacky like an hour or so.  Then lay up 
four or five more layers and wait for it to cool and get tacky and lay up more 
layers.  I use peelply to draw off the excess resin with a fin roller and if 
you let it cure overnight with peelply, you can avoid sanding before applying 
more layers the next day.  Repeat till the repair is higher than the 
surrounding surface and let it cure and grind flush.  

Here is a good video that shows some good tips for West System and 1708.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSKbF6jGJKw=2009s

Chuck S

> On 03/24/2021 10:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a 
> through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy?  Some of 
> mine have limited access on the inside for creating a taper.
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:59 AM Dave S via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to 
> one - I did the same and removed my overboard discharge at the same time.  
> >  
> > Why not eliminate the unused holes?  It needs to be done properly 
> > for sure but it’s not difficult.  
> >  
> > Some pics here:
> >  
> > 
> > http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1
> >  
> > Dave 
> > 33-2
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: HappyBuy diesel heater

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I installed our Espar D2 as far aft as possible - up high under the aft
coaming on the starboard side. This allowed for a short exhaust outlet
(note that the standard mufflers sold with these units may not be marine
grade and leak exhaust gases as they are not fully welded; I bought a
marine grade unit online for $100, others have had the seams welded). I ran
the air duct along the underside of the starboard cockpit coaming where it
exits just above the nav desk. I may extend it further forward at some
point, but it works well enough on our 35 mk2, although the D2 model
struggles in 0C outside temperatures and runs on high for a long time.
Keeping it as far aft as possible helps reduce noise. One it switches to
low, it is fairly quiet.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 5:38 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I purchased on e of the Chinese made copies of the Espar heater.  It is
> the 5KW version.  Next step is to figure out where to install it.
>
>
>
> Persistence has basically the identical layout to a C 33-2.  Have any
> 33-2 owners installed one of these and if so where?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Reuse Through-Hull or Cut New?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I had the local fiberglass expert do mine some 20 years ago, and I gave him a 
6” square piece of .25” G-10 fiberglass which he glued on the inside (after 
sanding well), then tapered the outside of the hole out around 10 or 12 to 1, 
and filled up with fiberglass till it was flush. I was never able to find it 
from the outside since.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2021 10:55 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Stus-List Re: Reuse Through-Hull or Cut New?

 

How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a 
through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy?  Some of mine 
have limited access on the inside for creating a taper.




--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com

S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:59 AM Dave S via CnC-List  
wrote:

If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to one - I did the same 
and removed my overboard discharge at the same time.  

 

Why not eliminate the unused holes?  It needs to be done properly for sure but 
it’s not difficult.  

 

Some pics here:

 

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1

 

Dave 

33-2

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Reuse Through-Hull or Cut New?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a
through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy?  Some of
mine have limited access on the inside for creating a taper.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:59 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to one - I did the
> same and removed my overboard discharge at the same time.
>
> Why not eliminate the unused holes?  It needs to be done properly for sure
> but it’s not difficult.
>
> Some pics here:
>
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1
>
> Dave
> 33-2
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

This sounds likely - My usual fix for fixing the prime in the water pump in
the spring was to bring a hose on board and blast water into the tank drain,
up to the faucet - this would also blast over to the other tank, and likely
blow out whatever crud was in the line. Then vacuum out that tank and clean.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

 

Something is preventing the free flow of water from one of the tanks.  It
could be;

 - a clog in the hose from the tank to the tee,

 - maybe a valve, somewhere in that line that is closed,

 - it could be the vent is plugged solid, creating a vacuum.  Which does not
allow the water to flow.

 

Given that there is very little head pressure to overcome the vacuum, it
wouldn't necessarily take too much of a plug on either side to stop the
water flow.

 

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: "'Stus-List'" 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 23:37:40 -0400

My 38 also has a tank under the port and starboard settees. Each of the
tanks has a shutoff valve at the outlet. The two drain hoses meet at a T
under the floorboards, and from this T is the line to the pressure pump.

 

Curiously, there is also a shutoff valve on each side of the T. I could see
no good purpose for the second shutoff in each supply line (unless it was
there to stop all the water from leaking out through a broken line), so I
left them in place when I replaced the hoses a while back.

 

Maybe you have an arrangement like this one?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 7:14 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com; Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

 

Peter

Very interesting.  I have the same issue except my port tank drains and the
Starboard tank does not.

Drives me crazy.  

Adam c 36

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.

 

  _  

From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 3:55:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?

 

I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set to
open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side. I'd
assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the stbd
tank empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full. Can
someone venture to what's going on? I've read this 2015 discussion
 , but the
OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. I'll do some
exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from
equalizing. Ideas are welcome.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Sure I’ll take a 40

On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 11:42 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm up for a free 40. Boat or scotch, I'm good either way.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 at 14:30, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Speaking of C 40's, I was down at our club today hanging out on Alera,
>> under the winter cover that still has to come off.  As I walked the docks I
>> saw that there is a 40 there that has been neglected.  I checked and
>> according to the registration sticker on it, it looks like has not been
>> used since 2017.  I called the club dock-master and apparently the owner is
>> on notice to vacate the slip by the end of this month as the club requires
>> boats to be both properly maintained and used.  This is neither.
>>
>> I reached out to the owner but have not heard back yet. Not sure of the
>> year but from the cut of the ports I suspect it is from the late 80s.  If
>> anyone in the PNW or anywhere else with the will to relocate the boat is
>> interested, I'll see what the deal is the let everyone know.  I think it
>> would be an awesome deal for someone.  Maybe even a freebee! (Yes Dave, I'm
>> thinking of you and Dave).
>>
>>  Tom B
>>
>> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
>> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
>> SV Alera
>> C 37+/40
>> Vashon Island WA
>> (206) 463-9200
>> www.sv-alera.com
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Peter, Something is preventing the free flow of water from one of the tanks. 
 It could be; - a clog in the hose from the tank to the tee, - maybe a valve, 
somewhere in that line that is closed, - it could be the vent is plugged solid, 
creating a vacuum.  Which does not allow the water to flow. Given that there is 
very little head pressure to overcome the vacuum, it wouldn't necessarily take 
too much of a plug on either side to stop the water flow. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: "'Stus-List'" 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 23:37:40 -0400


My 38 also has a tank under the port and starboard settees. Each of the tanks 
has a shutoff valve at the outlet. The two drain hoses meet at a T under the 
floorboards, and from this T is the line to the pressure pump.
 
Curiously, there is also a shutoff valve on each side of the T. I could see no 
good purpose for the second shutoff in each supply line (unless it was there to 
stop all the water from leaking out through a broken line), so I left them in 
place when I replaced the hoses a while back.
 
Maybe you have an arrangement like this one?
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 
From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 7:14 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com; Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
 
Peter
Very interesting.  I have the same issue except my port tank drains and the 
Starboard tank does not.
Drives me crazy.  
Adam c 36
Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canadas largest network.
 
From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 3:55:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?
 
I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set to 
open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side. 
Id assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the 
stbd tank empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full. Can 
someone venture to whats going on? Ive read this 2015 discussion, 
but the OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. Ill do 
some exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from 
equalizing. Ideas are welcome.
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