Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.  
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.  However I 
was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I assume it is 
similar when going the other way.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
Sent: June 23, 2022 7:39 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Neil Andersen 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

I do know that import duties are only paid once

Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

Why would no duties be due?
I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an American would they 
not have to pay an import tax or something?

Dan Cormier
C&C44 Breakaweigh
Halifax, NS / Florida

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US or 
Canada. No duties are due, regardless.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking for.

I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the 
cockpit that simply says "C&C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below it... 
and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth door but I 
don't think it is a maker's plaque.

I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C&C44 was made 
although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was manufactured 
in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US and if I can 
prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less costly to the 
buyer.

Does anyone know this information or can any other C&C44 owners who know where 
their boat was made chime in?


On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY where 
both used in each plant

Look for a builder's plaque, which I suspect you haven't found.

The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built

The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in 85 
and "coming to Canada" in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85

JKC

www.candcyachts.com
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

But in the good ole USA, Sales tax lives on forever . . . .

Bill Colelman
Erie PA , 6% !  (I know, you Canucks have it way worse!)

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:39 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I do know that import duties are only paid once
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Dan via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dan 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country
> of manufacture
>
> Why would no duties be due?
> I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an American would
> they not have to pay an import tax or something?
>
> Dan Cormier
> C&C44 Breakaweigh
> Halifax, NS / Florida
>
> On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US
> or Canada. No duties are due, regardless.
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Dan via CnC-List 
> Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Dan 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of
> manufacture
>
> Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking
> for.
>
> I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the
> cockpit that simply says "C&C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below
> it... and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth
> door but I don't think it is a maker's plaque.
>
> I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C&C44 was made
> although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was
> manufactured in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US
> and if I can prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less
> costly to the buyer.
>
> Does anyone know this information or can any other C&C44 owners who know
> where their boat was made chime in?
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY
> where both used in each plant
>
> Look for a builder’s plaque, which I suspect you haven’t found.
>
> The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built
>
> The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in
> 85 and “coming to Canada” in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85
>
> JKC
>
> www.candcyachts.com
> 
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
>
>

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Don't get me started on sales/use taxes.

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 8:38 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of
manufacture

 

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.
However I was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I
assume it is similar when going the other way.

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

Stus-List Interior paint

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat's interior to look
less, well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom "stick" boat, so it does not have
fiberglass liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs
some TLC.  I thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the
military look that I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh
coat of white paint will suffice.  I'm thinking about Zinnser interior
bathroom paint, which is marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Dan via CnC-List]

Thanks for the help everyone.
The broker I'm using is telling me there will be about $2k in some kind of
import fee or something unless we can prove the boat was manufactured in
the Rhode Island factory, OR was imported to the US already by a previous
owner at some point, which it was, but I have no record of that on paper.
The US registration office might have it.

Dan Cormier
C&C44 Breakaweigh
Halifax, NS / Florida



On Fri, Jun 24, 2022, 9:39 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.
> Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.
> However I was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I
> assume it is similar when going the other way.
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* June 23, 2022 7:39 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Neil Andersen 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country
> of manufacture
>
>
>
> I do know that import duties are only paid once
>
>
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
>
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
> 484-354-8800
> --
>
> *From:* Dan via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dan 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country
> of manufacture
>
>
>
> Why would no duties be due?
>
> I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an American would
> they not have to pay an import tax or something?
>
>
>
> Dan Cormier
>
> C&C44 Breakaweigh
>
> Halifax, NS / Florida
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US
> or Canada. No duties are due, regardless.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Dan via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: Stus-List 
>
> Cc: Dan 
>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of
> manufacture
>
>
>
> Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking
> for.
>
>
>
> I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the
> cockpit that simply says "C&C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below
> it... and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth
> door but I don't think it is a maker's plaque.
>
>
>
> I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C&C44 was made
> although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was
> manufactured in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US
> and if I can prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less
> costly to the buyer.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know this information or can any other C&C44 owners who know
> where their boat was made chime in?
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY
> where both used in each plant
>
> Look for a builder’s plaque, which I suspect you haven’t found.
>
> The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built
>
> The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in
> 85 and “coming to Canada” in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85
>
> JKC
>
> www.candcyachts.com
> 
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
>
>

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Jeff Nelson via CnC-List]

Ditto in the great white north

On 2022-06-24 10:05, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:

But in the good ole USA, Sales tax lives on forever . . . .

Bill Colelman
Erie PA , 6% !  (I know, you Canucks have it way worse!)

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:39 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I do know that import duties are only paid once

Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

*From:* Dan via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Dan 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification
country of manufacture
Why would no duties be due?
I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an
American would they not have to pay an import tax or something?

Dan Cormier
C&C44 Breakaweigh
Halifax, NS / Florida

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
 wrote:

I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was
built in the US or Canada. No duties are due, regardless.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Dan via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number
identification country of manufacture

Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what
I was looking for.

I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum
plaque in  the cockpit that simply says "C&C"... not sure if
"made in the usa" is below it... and inside the boat there IS
a small wooden plaque over the v-berth door but I don't think
it is a maker's plaque.

I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C&C44
was made although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as
the boat was manufactured in August 1985 for the 1986 line.
I'm selling it within the US and if I can prove it was made in
Rhode Island it will be easier and less costly to the buyer.

Does anyone know this information or can any other C&C44
owners who know where their boat was made chime in?


On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via
CnC-List  wrote:

Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was
built.  ZCC and CCY where both used in each plant

Look for a builder’s plaque, which I suspect you haven’t
found.

The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where
they were built

The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island
as you noted in 85 and “coming to Canada” in 86 after
Rhode Island was shut down November 85

JKC

www.candcyachts.com


Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752



--
Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C&C 30 - 549
  Armdale Y.C.

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Interior paint

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I used gloss white "porch paint", which is designed to get wet, in the head and 
on the bulkhead in front of the chart table on my boat. It has generally worked 
well, but be warned teak is hard to paint over. I used primer and still had to 
do several coats to make it look right. On the good side the paint is easy to 
work with and quite cheap by boat standards.
Joe
Coquina

From: Matthew via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 9:16 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Interior paint

Listers:

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat's interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom "stick" boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I'm thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

Matt Wolford
C&C 42 Custom

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Matthew via CnC-List]

If it was federally documented, the Coast Guard may have a Bill of Sale record.

 

From: Dan via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 9:20 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

 

Thanks for the help everyone.

The broker I'm using is telling me there will be about $2k in some kind of 
import fee or something unless we can prove the boat was manufactured in the 
Rhode Island factory, OR was imported to the US already by a previous owner at 
some point, which it was, but I have no record of that on paper. The US 
registration office might have it.

 

Dan Cormier

C&C44 Breakaweigh

Halifax, NS / Florida

 

 

 

On Fri, Jun 24, 2022, 9:39 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.  
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.  However I 
was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I assume it is 
similar when going the other way.

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: June 23, 2022 7:39 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Neil Andersen mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

 

I do know that import duties are only paid once

 

Neil Andersen, W3NEA 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800


  _  


From: Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture 

 

Why would no duties be due? 

I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an American would they 
not have to pay an import tax or something?

 

Dan Cormier

C&C44 Breakaweigh

Halifax, NS / Florida

 

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US or 
Canada. No duties are due, regardless.

 

Marek 

 

 

 

Sent from my Android-based can on a string

 

 

 

 Original message 

From: Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00) 

To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture 

 

Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking for. 

 

I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the 
cockpit that simply says "C&C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below it... 
and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth door but I 
don't think it is a maker's plaque.

 

I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C&C44 was made 
although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was manufactured 
in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US and if I can 
prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less costly to the 
buyer.

 

Does anyone know this information or can any other C&C44 owners who know where 
their boat was made chime in?

 

 

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY where 
both used in each plant

Look for a builder’s plaque, which I suspect you haven’t found.  

The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built

The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in 85 
and “coming to Canada” in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85

JKC

www.candcyachts.com 

 
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Your broker is right.  Unless the import fee is paid, it is owed.   The import 
“fee” is based on the value of the boat.

Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: Matthew via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 10:28:02 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture


If it was federally documented, the Coast Guard may have a Bill of Sale record.



From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 9:20 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture



Thanks for the help everyone.

The broker I'm using is telling me there will be about $2k in some kind of 
import fee or something unless we can prove the boat was manufactured in the 
Rhode Island factory, OR was imported to the US already by a previous owner at 
some point, which it was, but I have no record of that on paper. The US 
registration office might have it.



Dan Cormier

C&C44 Breakaweigh

Halifax, NS / Florida







On Fri, Jun 24, 2022, 9:39 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.  
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.  However I 
was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I assume it is 
similar when going the other way.



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS



From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: June 23, 2022 7:39 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Neil Andersen 
mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture



I do know that import duties are only paid once



Neil Andersen, W3NEA

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800



From: Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture



Why would no duties be due?

I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an American would they 
not have to pay an import tax or something?



Dan Cormier

C&C44 Breakaweigh

Halifax, NS / Florida



On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US or 
Canada. No duties are due, regardless.



Marek







Sent from my Android-based can on a string







 Original message 

From: Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00)

To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

Cc: Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>>

Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture



Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking for.



I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the 
cockpit that simply says "C&C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below it... 
and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth door but I 
don't think it is a maker's plaque.



I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C&C44 was made 
although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was manufactured 
in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US and if I can 
prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less costly to the 
buyer.



Does anyone know this information or can any other C&C44 owners who know where 
their boat was made chime in?





On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY where 
both used in each plant

Look for a builder’s plaque, which I suspect you haven’t found.

The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built

The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in 85 
and “coming to Canada” in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85

JKC

www.candcyachts.com
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Matt,

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Port Ludlow/Seattle

On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:


Listers:

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

Matt Wolford
C&C 42 Custom

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Whatever paint you choose, consider applying it with a mini foam roller.  I
used a brush to paint Brightside on the interior of Touche's head door.
Left minor brush strokes.

On the other hand, I painted some doors in my house with a mini foam
roller.  The difference is noticeable.  The mini roller left a nice smooth
finish.  Looks like it was sprayed.

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

I have used both interlux and total boat (which I recently discovered is 
actually made by Petit) and found the latter a much better product that does 
not sag and drip like interlux. Best of luck!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 24, 2022, at 1:22 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Whatever paint you choose, consider applying it with a mini foam roller.  I 
> used a brush to paint Brightside on the interior of Touche's head door.  Left 
> minor brush strokes.
> 
> On the other hand, I painted some doors in my house with a mini foam roller.  
> The difference is noticeable.  The mini roller left a nice smooth finish.  
> Looks like it was sprayed.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Excellent advice.  Thanks.

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 2:21 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Whatever paint you choose, consider applying it with a mini foam roller.  I 
used a brush to paint Brightside on the interior of Touche's head door.  Left 
minor brush strokes.

 

On the other hand, I painted some doors in my house with a mini foam roller.  
The difference is noticeable.  The mini roller left a nice smooth finish.  
Looks like it was sprayed.

 

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Matt:  

Your first thought might be the best one depending on how handy you are with 
making panels from “door skins”……

 

My 38MKII was custom built in the Bruckman shop in 1977.  They fashioned 
several panels running fore and aft on either side of the center line and 
covered them with an upholstery type vinyl. Then they used Velcro (1977 
version???) around the back edge of each panel and stuck it to the ceiling. 

 

So, 45 years later, that vinyl??? is still intact and still white.   The Velcro 
has now failed on several panels and my project for the summer is to use the 
original panels and recover them with a new version of similar vinyl sourced 
from Marine Surplus, Inc. in Sarasota Florida. If you don’t have the panels 
already, you can make a template from cardboard or contractors’ paper and trace 
the roof outline, around the openings, etc. The stuff comes in 4 x 8 size. My 
ceiling is divided across port to starboard about 4-5’ forward of the 
companionway.  That means that I will have 8 very manageable panels that are 
separated by the teak strip mentioned below and then butted up against each 
other at that lateral dividing line.

 

There will be no sanding, filling, and painting involved.  I will, however, use 
screws instead of Velcro into the original ceiling with screw covers (Lowe’s) 
and be done with it for another 45 years.  

 

If I can find a picture of how it looked with it all up, I will post it.  They 
separated the panels fore and aft with a center strip (2”) of teak, and I have 
two handrails fore and aft on either side of the centerline about 20” apart 
from the centerline.  That gives the ceiling a finished look without looking 
like a big white sheet of vinyl.  

 

As far as the “tired look”, I have also replaced all the countertops with a new 
white laminate, and new sinks.  It certainly freshens up the interior……..

 

It’s an easy way to freshen up the interior, I agree with your admiral. I’m 
giving thought to having one of those “redo your bathroom in one day” folks 
come and give me an estimate on redoing my head compartment……wood certainly 
does not belong in the head Especially after 45 years of service.

 

Have fun with it, good luck and post the results.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt, 

 

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

 

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 





On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Hmmm – just as I was zeroing in on a type of paint.  The vinyl-covered panel 
idea separated by teak molding was my original plan.  Now you have me waffling. 
 

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:00 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt:  

Your first thought might be the best one depending on how handy you are with 
making panels from “door skins”……

 

My 38MKII was custom built in the Bruckman shop in 1977.  They fashioned 
several panels running fore and aft on either side of the center line and 
covered them with an upholstery type vinyl. Then they used Velcro (1977 
version???) around the back edge of each panel and stuck it to the ceiling. 

 

So, 45 years later, that vinyl??? is still intact and still white.   The Velcro 
has now failed on several panels and my project for the summer is to use the 
original panels and recover them with a new version of similar vinyl sourced 
from Marine Surplus, Inc. in Sarasota Florida. If you don’t have the panels 
already, you can make a template from cardboard or contractors’ paper and trace 
the roof outline, around the openings, etc. The stuff comes in 4 x 8 size. My 
ceiling is divided across port to starboard about 4-5’ forward of the 
companionway.  That means that I will have 8 very manageable panels that are 
separated by the teak strip mentioned below and then butted up against each 
other at that lateral dividing line.

 

There will be no sanding, filling, and painting involved.  I will, however, use 
screws instead of Velcro into the original ceiling with screw covers (Lowe’s) 
and be done with it for another 45 years.  

 

If I can find a picture of how it looked with it all up, I will post it.  They 
separated the panels fore and aft with a center strip (2”) of teak, and I have 
two handrails fore and aft on either side of the centerline about 20” apart 
from the centerline.  That gives the ceiling a finished look without looking 
like a big white sheet of vinyl.  

 

As far as the “tired look”, I have also replaced all the countertops with a new 
white laminate, and new sinks.  It certainly freshens up the interior……..

 

It’s an easy way to freshen up the interior, I agree with your admiral. I’m 
giving thought to having one of those “redo your bathroom in one day” folks 
come and give me an estimate on redoing my head compartment……wood certainly 
does not belong in the head Especially after 45 years of service.

 

Have fun with it, good luck and post the results.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt, 

 

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

 

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 

 

On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Matt:  I hate to play the Admiral’s card here, but she will definitely like the 
no sanding, no dust, and no paint smell better than have to do a clean up to 
the entire interior.  Just sayin’   Ron

 

From: Matthew via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:16 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Hmmm – just as I was zeroing in on a type of paint.  The vinyl-covered panel 
idea separated by teak molding was my original plan.  Now you have me waffling. 
 

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:00 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net  
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt:  

Your first thought might be the best one depending on how handy you are with 
making panels from “door skins”……

 

My 38MKII was custom built in the Bruckman shop in 1977.  They fashioned 
several panels running fore and aft on either side of the center line and 
covered them with an upholstery type vinyl. Then they used Velcro (1977 
version???) around the back edge of each panel and stuck it to the ceiling. 

 

So, 45 years later, that vinyl??? is still intact and still white.   The Velcro 
has now failed on several panels and my project for the summer is to use the 
original panels and recover them with a new version of similar vinyl sourced 
from Marine Surplus, Inc. in Sarasota Florida. If you don’t have the panels 
already, you can make a template from cardboard or contractors’ paper and trace 
the roof outline, around the openings, etc. The stuff comes in 4 x 8 size. My 
ceiling is divided across port to starboard about 4-5’ forward of the 
companionway.  That means that I will have 8 very manageable panels that are 
separated by the teak strip mentioned below and then butted up against each 
other at that lateral dividing line.

 

There will be no sanding, filling, and painting involved.  I will, however, use 
screws instead of Velcro into the original ceiling with screw covers (Lowe’s) 
and be done with it for another 45 years.  

 

If I can find a picture of how it looked with it all up, I will post it.  They 
separated the panels fore and aft with a center strip (2”) of teak, and I have 
two handrails fore and aft on either side of the centerline about 20” apart 
from the centerline.  That gives the ceiling a finished look without looking 
like a big white sheet of vinyl.  

 

As far as the “tired look”, I have also replaced all the countertops with a new 
white laminate, and new sinks.  It certainly freshens up the interior……..

 

It’s an easy way to freshen up the interior, I agree with your admiral. I’m 
giving thought to having one of those “redo your bathroom in one day” folks 
come and give me an estimate on redoing my head compartment……wood certainly 
does not belong in the head Especially after 45 years of service.

 

Have fun with it, good luck and post the results.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt, 

 

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

 

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 

 

On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I painted the interior ceiling of the head ~ 11 years ago using Brightside 
[Interlux] and mixed in a little of their dulling agent to tone down the high 
shine of the enamel surface and it remains looking great.  Did as Dennis 
suggested, using the mini foam roller other than cutting in the edges, with 
foam brushes.  Only prep was wiping down [repeatedly] with a clean cloth with 
one of the Interlux solvents – think it was 202 but possibly 216, cannot be 
certain at this point.  

 

Very easy prep and very easy painting.  No mess in the interior.  The surface 
was in good condition, so that helped. There was the paint smell, but that 
lasted only a day or so. 

 

Plan to do the same in the forepeak this summer. 

 

Brian

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:39 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt:  I hate to play the Admiral’s card here, but she will definitely like the 
no sanding, no dust, and no paint smell better than have to do a clean up to 
the entire interior.  Just sayin’   Ron

 

From: Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:16 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Hmmm – just as I was zeroing in on a type of paint.  The vinyl-covered panel 
idea separated by teak molding was my original plan.  Now you have me waffling. 
 

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:00 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net  
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt:  

Your first thought might be the best one depending on how handy you are with 
making panels from “door skins”……

 

My 38MKII was custom built in the Bruckman shop in 1977.  They fashioned 
several panels running fore and aft on either side of the center line and 
covered them with an upholstery type vinyl. Then they used Velcro (1977 
version???) around the back edge of each panel and stuck it to the ceiling. 

 

So, 45 years later, that vinyl??? is still intact and still white.   The Velcro 
has now failed on several panels and my project for the summer is to use the 
original panels and recover them with a new version of similar vinyl sourced 
from Marine Surplus, Inc. in Sarasota Florida. If you don’t have the panels 
already, you can make a template from cardboard or contractors’ paper and trace 
the roof outline, around the openings, etc. The stuff comes in 4 x 8 size. My 
ceiling is divided across port to starboard about 4-5’ forward of the 
companionway.  That means that I will have 8 very manageable panels that are 
separated by the teak strip mentioned below and then butted up against each 
other at that lateral dividing line.

 

There will be no sanding, filling, and painting involved.  I will, however, use 
screws instead of Velcro into the original ceiling with screw covers (Lowe’s) 
and be done with it for another 45 years.  

 

If I can find a picture of how it looked with it all up, I will post it.  They 
separated the panels fore and aft with a center strip (2”) of teak, and I have 
two handrails fore and aft on either side of the centerline about 20” apart 
from the centerline.  That gives the ceiling a finished look without looking 
like a big white sheet of vinyl.  

 

As far as the “tired look”, I have also replaced all the countertops with a new 
white laminate, and new sinks.  It certainly freshens up the interior……..

 

It’s an easy way to freshen up the interior, I agree with your admiral. I’m 
giving thought to having one of those “redo your bathroom in one day” folks 
come and give me an estimate on redoing my head compartment……wood certainly 
does not belong in the head Especially after 45 years of service.

 

Have fun with it, good luck and post the results.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt, 

 

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

 

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 

 

On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question ab

Stus-List Painting hull

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Do any of you listers have experience rolling and tipping your boat with 
Epifanes 2 part poly-urethane? 
I would appreciate any comments about the process and results.   
Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C&C 44
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Painting hull

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Fred

Found it very hard to work with. Very thin and sets up very quickly on a
sunny day.

Joel

On Fri, Jun 24, 2022 at 4:05 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Do any of you listers have experience rolling and tipping your boat with
> Epifanes 2 part poly-urethane?
> I would appreciate any comments about the process and results.
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland Or
>
> Sent from my iPhone

-- 
Joel

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Mathew,

I've been told teak won't hold paint.  Mahoghany can be painted but not teak.

Last year I painted my fiberglass ceiling.  I had added some fiberglass cloth 
over high stress areas under the clutches and faired with Total Fair, so these 
areas were green.  I chose a good quality exterior latex paint from Behr.  "Off 
White" is the color and I love how it looks.  I chose the Scrub Defense version 
with "paint and primer" is in the can.   One coat using a mohair roller did the 
trick hiding all the differenet colors of fairing and filled holes, ets; all my 
good work and it looks like a new boat, better than when I got her twenty years 
ago.  I chose Behr simply because fifteen years ago, I had Home Depot color 
match my deck and painted a few areas that were scraped pretty bad.  That paint 
never peeled or flaked off after fifteen years, while some much more expensive 
and smelly Brightside paint did within five years

There are many good paints available now; Zinnser, Kiltz, but also Rustoleum 
sprays and any good exterior house paint.

I would suggest using a high quailty water based paint for your interior.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis

> On 06/24/2022 9:15 AM Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Listers:
> 
> 
> As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish 
> (thanks for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to 
> look less, well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not 
> have fiberglass liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs 
> some TLC.  I thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the 
> military look that I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh 
> coat of white paint will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior 
> bathroom paint, which is marketed as effective against mold and mildew.
> 
> 
> Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Matt Wolford
> 
> C&C 42 Custom
> 
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

My teak is holding paint. It took several coats to keep the oil from showing 
through.

I read someplace fishermen use exterior house paint to paint their boats, they 
get banged up too often for yacht quality work to be worth it.

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 4:36 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Hi Mathew, 

 

I've been told teak won't hold paint.  Mahoghany can be painted but not teak.

 

Last year I painted my fiberglass ceiling.  I had added some fiberglass cloth 
over high stress areas under the clutches and faired with Total Fair, so these 
areas were green.  I chose a good quality exterior latex paint from Behr.  "Off 
White" is the color and I love how it looks.  I chose the Scrub Defense version 
with "paint and primer" is in the can.   One coat using a mohair roller did the 
trick hiding all the differenet colors of fairing and filled holes, ets; all my 
good work and it looks like a new boat, better than when I got her twenty years 
ago.  I chose Behr simply because fifteen years ago, I had Home Depot color 
match my deck and painted a few areas that were scraped pretty bad.  That paint 
never peeled or flaked off after fifteen years, while some much more expensive 
and smelly Brightside paint did within five years

 

There are many good paints available now; Zinnser, Kiltz, but also Rustoleum 
sprays and any good exterior house paint. 

 

I would suggest using a high quailty water based paint for your interior. 

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis

On 06/24/2022 9:15 AM Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Found this paint roller bucket very handy.  Use at home and on the boat too as 
a mini roller can hook onto the lip and it has a magnet to hold your paintbrush 
for cutting in.  $15 but well worth it.

Wooster, paint bucket available at Home Depot.

Mini foam rollers didn't hold enough paint and mini mohair rollers worked 
better for me.  Found them at Boatworkstoday.com.

Chuck S

> On 06/24/2022 2:21 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Whatever paint you choose, consider applying it with a mini foam roller.  
> I used a brush to paint Brightside on the interior of Touche's head door.  
> Left minor brush strokes.
> 
> On the other hand, I painted some doors in my house with a mini foam 
> roller.  The difference is noticeable.  The mini roller left a nice smooth 
> finish.  Looks like it was sprayed.
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Same here, only one boat, though.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 8:38 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.  
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.  However I 
was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I assume it is 
similar when going the other way.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS