Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Ahhh. The old slant 6 trick….Dave - clean all your grounds and clean and tighten all connections.  The bouncing meter is a clue to an intermittent or loose connection.  It can also be a switch oxidizing or otherwise failing.    I assume you are measuring your voltage with reference to a local ground.  (Meaning near the switch).  Measure that but also measure with the meter connected to the battery ground (-) terminal directly.   If the values differ you know you have a bad (high resistance) ground.   You can also verify this by measuring the resistance between those points.  Mine had little  problems due to loose contacts in switches, poor diy terminations, and a big problem most importantly, due to an oxidized lug connecting the entire control harness to the engine.   It has been bulletproof since I worked on it - cleaning, tightening, protecting with dielectric grease and re-doing the prior owners substandard work.I assume you are working with a schematic, stepwise through each circuit. Dave Sent from my iPhoneOn Oct 25, 2022, at 9:11 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  wrote:

  
   
 
  
   You need a  better meter that registers volts in tenths or hundreths of volts.  Sounds like the batteries are OK.  Eventually you will find a bad connection between the battery and the switch and the starter.  Best to eliminate those control wire harness quick connects and wire the red lead straight from the battery to the control panel and then back to the starter.   
   

   
   I keep a large screw driver onboard and the rare times the panel button didn't work, I simply shorted the terminals at the starter, to override the solenoid and engage the starter.  I've since rewired that red wire and it starts every time using the panel start button. 
   

   
   Chuck S 
   

   

   
      

   
   
   
 On 10/25/2022 10:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List  wrote: 


 


 
   More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is happening.  Dave 

 
 
  
  
S/V Aries 
   
  
1990 C 34+ 
   
  
New London, CT 
   

  
 
 
  
  
  
On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  wrote: 
   
   
   
   
 HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was backwards?  Dave 
 
Sent from my iPhone 

   
  
 
 

   
 

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

You need a  better meter that registers volts in tenths or hundreths of volts.  
Sounds like the batteries are OK.  Eventually you will find a bad connection 
between the battery and the switch and the starter.  Best to eliminate those 
control wire harness quick connects and wire the red lead straight from the 
battery to the control panel and then back to the starter.  

I keep a large screw driver onboard and the rare times the panel button didn't 
work, I simply shorted the terminals at the starter, to override the solenoid 
and engage the starter.  I've since rewired that red wire and it starts every 
time using the panel start button.

Chuck S




> On 10/25/2022 10:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine 
> panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked 
> at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key 
> switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere 
> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not 
> understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird 
> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery 
> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and 
> then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are measuring 
> 12.5V.  Something very strange is happening.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> > > On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right 
> > direction.  Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i 
> > would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this 
> > summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace 
> > key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could 
> > not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back 
> > next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing 
> > around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case 
> > old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it 
> > matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did 
> > not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key 
> > switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn 
> > on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and 
> > nothing. Now i measure 4v 
 at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at 
its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over 
an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly 
recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was 
backwards?  Dave
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > 
> > > 
> 

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[Carl Freeman via CnC-List]

 Hi Dave, what brand engine is it? We will assume you have the key switch 
right. Sounds like a bad connection of some sort, since your starter has been 
giving you issues I would check there first. Many engines receive all of their 
power at the main starter terminal. A poor connection there or at the battery 
could be causing all of your problems.
Pictures help.
Good luck, Carl

On Tuesday, October 25, 2022 at 02:57:44 PM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  
Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a 
head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now 
and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, glow 
plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get start out so 
gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next week and no 
response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. 
Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring 
and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are 
supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and misremembered 
which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and checked meter and 
12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key switch and fuel pump 
starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine 
panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at its 
inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over an 
hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. 
What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was backwards?  Dave

Sent from my iPhone  

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel 
ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at the 
input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch on, I 
got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere downstream. I am 
presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not understand what that means 
and hoping someone else does.  The other weird thing is that as I have worked 
on this, there are times when the battery meter in the cabin bounces all over 
the place from 9V to 12V and back and then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the 
same time, the batteries are measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is 
happening.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  
> Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a 
> head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now 
> and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, glow 
> plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get start out 
> so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next week and no 
> response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. 
> Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring 
> and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are 
> supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and 
> misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and 
> checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key 
> switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i 
> measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and 
> measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other 
> devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems 
> to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key 
> switch was backwards?  Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[leewardrail hotmail via CnC-List]

"I still have about a half a roll of 3M butyl tape purchased about 18 
years ago at an auto supply house that caters to body shops."


That's the thing... that was 18 years ago.  getting things like lacquer 
automotive paints and excellent anti-fouling 18 years ago was easy. As 
production costs and environmental rules increase, products change. Look 
at what Interlux just did with their anti-fouling product line.


I fully agree with 3M being good products, but even the 3M rep I dealt 
with 4 years ago, admitted that have had to reformulate some products. 
That said, if I had to assume that someone made a decent butyl, it would 
be 3M. That would also assume the market is still big enough for a 
similar formulation, as opposed to profitable replacement products.


FWIW the Bed-it stuff is much stickier than the others i have used. That 
is the big thing IMO. I would love to see practical boat owner buy a 
bunch of butyl and test them.


Based on a thread I just found, looks like he sold the formulation and 
brand to sailboatowners.com, not just have them sell it. 
https://www.sailnet.com/threads/no-bed-it-butyl-tape.343577/


Cheers, Roy


 On 2022-10-25 7:26 p.m., Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


I still have about a half a roll of 3M butyl tape purchased about 18 
years ago at an auto supply house that caters to body shops. Long time 
ago, when I was in the car business working for GM, I learned that 
there were no higher quality alternatives to 3M products. So that has 
pretty much been my go-to source for adhesives and so forth. In the 18 
years I’ve had Imzadi I’ve never had a leak or had any of the 3M tape 
squish out from under the hardware.


Never tried Bed-It Butyl, though I know it to be highly regarded by 
those on the list. So I can’t compare it to what I’ve used. But 3M 
stuff is readily available and performs well in my experience.


Rick Brass

ImzadiC 38 mk2 #47

la Belle AuroreC 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

*From:*Bill Coleman via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
*Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2022 6:02 PM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Bill Coleman 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.

While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving, 
under head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to 
not move, more firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)


Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie PA

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
 wrote:


It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.  
I find it doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that
other quality products don’t.    it is very likely Rod found a
good product he trusted, has had private labelled, and has done a
good job of promoting it.  (Good for him) Likely there is another
brand out there with identical packaging etc….

The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use
that for any refit, knowing it will outlast me.

Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?

Dave 33-2 windstar

Sent from my iPhone



On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List
 wrote:



Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it.

Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List
:

I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have
been using it for several years now, and this stuff is the
real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4”

x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.

Here is the link to Amazon:


https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1




-
Paul E.

1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List
 wrote:


On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List
 wrote:

If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store
for Dicor Butyl tape.  I have both and find them
similar.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan

On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via
CnC-List wrote:

Still looking for a 

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I would have to agree with Rick.  You can't go wrong with 3M.  Never used
their butyl, but I don't quibble all over the price of 3M, although it's
usually high. But at least you know you're going to get great results. I
just Had to buff out a large Curved windshield that looked like it had been
lightly sandblasted, and after digging through all sorts of compounds, I
finally found 3M glass polish.  80 bucks for a little bottle, but the
results were amazing. It did take an hour and a half, but still... Not
something you want to take a chance on.

Bill Coleman

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022, 20:27 Rick Brass via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I still have about a half a roll of 3M butyl tape purchased about 18 years
> ago at an auto supply house that caters to body shops. Long time ago, when
> I was in the car business working for GM, I learned that there were no
> higher quality alternatives to 3M products. So that has pretty much been my
> go-to source for adhesives and so forth. In the 18 years I’ve had Imzadi
> I’ve never had a leak or had any of the 3M tape squish out from under the
> hardware.
>
>
>
> Never tried Bed-It Butyl, though I know it to be highly regarded by those
> on the list. So I can’t compare it to what I’ve used. But 3M stuff is
> readily available and performs well in my experience.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
>
> la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2022 6:02 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source
>
>
>
> My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.
>
> While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving,
> under head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to not
> move, more firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)
>
>
>
> Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find
> it doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality
> products don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted,
> has had private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good
> for him)   Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging
> etc….
>
>
>
> The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that
> for any refit, knowing it will outlast me.
>
> Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
>
> Dave 33-2 windstar
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it.
>
>
>
> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
>
> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for
> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1
> 1/8" x 3/4”
>
> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.
>
>
>
> Here is the link to Amazon:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
>
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl
> tape.  I have both and find them similar.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is
> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?
>
>
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I still have about a half a roll of 3M butyl tape purchased about 18 years ago 
at an auto supply house that caters to body shops. Long time ago, when I was in 
the car business working for GM, I learned that there were no higher quality 
alternatives to 3M products. So that has pretty much been my go-to source for 
adhesives and so forth. In the 18 years I’ve had Imzadi I’ve never had a leak 
or had any of the 3M tape squish out from under the hardware.

 

Never tried Bed-It Butyl, though I know it to be highly regarded by those on 
the list. So I can’t compare it to what I’ve used. But 3M stuff is readily 
available and performs well in my experience.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2022 6:02 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

 

My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.

While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving, under 
head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to not move, more 
firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)

 

Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie PA

 

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find it 
doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality products 
don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted, has had 
private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good for him)   
Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging etc….

 

The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that for any 
refit, knowing it will outlast me.

Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?

Dave 33-2 windstar 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it. 

 

Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >:

I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for 
several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" 
x 3/4”  

x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.   

 

Here is the link to Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape
 

 
=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
 

 

 

-
Paul E. 

1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL 

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 

 

On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 


On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  I 
have both and find them similar.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan

On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:

Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is sold 
out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 

 

Chuck S 

 

Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

 
 
  
   bed it comes in custom labeled cardboard packaging so it's not rebranded
   
  
  
   
  
  
   Bob Mann 
  
  
   Cc35 mk I
  
  
   
  
  
   
On 10/25/2022 7:05 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:
   
   

   
   

   
   
I cut out a larger opening in the floor to work on the mast step, I didn't
   
   
see how to do it otherwise.
   
   
The access to that forward bolt is not easy, trying to grind down there will
   
   
be quite the challenge if I have to get into it and no way is my new mast
   
   
coming out. On the good side I bet you could remove that forward bolt and
   
   
the keel would stay on just fine.
   
   

   
   

   
   
Joe Della Barba
   
   
Coquina C 35 MK I
   
   
Kent Island MD USA
   
   

   
   

   
   

   
   
-Original Message-
   
   
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
   
   
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2022 4:00 PM
   
   
To: steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
   
   
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
   
   
Subject: Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?
   
   

   
   
Steven,
   
   

   
   
I did leave the old wood in there.  Was a decision I had to make and wasn't
   
   
sure what was the best approach, but yes, I enclosed it with the pieces I
   
   
installed.  I thought the fiberglass would be strong enough.  I didn't have
   
   
a backing plate on the bolt, just the washer, but after I had the crunching
   
   
of the wood I put one in temporarily, maybe that's was done on your boat
   
   
also?
   
   

   
   
I just happened to do both the mast step and the bolt at the same time, I
   
   
think you could do them separately but access to the bolt was probably a lot
   
   
easier with the mast step removed.  I had my mast pulled to replace the
   
   
step, but I've heard suggestions that you could just raise it up and block
   
   
it from the deck, though I don't think I'd be comfortable doing that for any
   
   
length of time.
   
   

   
   
Getting the wood of the step out was easy, a Sawzall did the trick.
   
   
Getting something in was a lot more complicated as you cannot fit a wide
   
   
enough board through the opening in the cabin sole.  I used a fiberglass
   
   
cloth layup on a form across the bilge sump so I could get the cloth into
   
   
the space, I think I used 27 layers in one rather long layup.  I'd be happy
   
   
to go into more detail if you want to contact me offline.
   
   

   
   
Neil Gallagher
   
   
Weatherly, 35-1
   
   
Glen Cove NY
   
  
 

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Maybe I should buy the company and bring to the next level

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 6:15 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> No doubt there are super cheap varieties out there, along with better
> stuff.I have a really old roll, 20+ years.  Great stuff.  WhenI
> reinstall my deck hatches I’ll finally use it up or will run short.  Will
> need another big roll for the next 20!
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 6:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.
> While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving,
> under head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to not
> move, more firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)
>
> Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find
>> it doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality
>> products don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted,
>> has had private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good
>> for him)   Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging
>> etc….
>>
>> The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that
>> for any refit, knowing it will outlast me.
>> Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
>> Dave 33-2 windstar
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it.
>>
>> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
>>
>> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for
>> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1
>> 1/8" x 3/4”
>> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.
>>
>> Here is the link to Amazon:
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
>>
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C Landfall 38
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>>
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl
>> tape.  I have both and find them similar.
>>
>> Neil Schiller
>> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
>> Whitehall, Michigan
>>
>> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is
>> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?
>>
>> Chuck S
>>
>>
>> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *

Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I cut out a larger opening in the floor to work on the mast step, I didn't
see how to do it otherwise.
The access to that forward bolt is not easy, trying to grind down there will
be quite the challenge if I have to get into it and no way is my new mast
coming out. On the good side I bet you could remove that forward bolt and
the keel would stay on just fine.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA



-Original Message-
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2022 4:00 PM
To: steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

Steven,

I did leave the old wood in there.  Was a decision I had to make and wasn't
sure what was the best approach, but yes, I enclosed it with the pieces I
installed.  I thought the fiberglass would be strong enough.  I didn't have
a backing plate on the bolt, just the washer, but after I had the crunching
of the wood I put one in temporarily, maybe that's was done on your boat
also?

I just happened to do both the mast step and the bolt at the same time, I
think you could do them separately but access to the bolt was probably a lot
easier with the mast step removed.  I had my mast pulled to replace the
step, but I've heard suggestions that you could just raise it up and block
it from the deck, though I don't think I'd be comfortable doing that for any
length of time.

Getting the wood of the step out was easy, a Sawzall did the trick. 
Getting something in was a lot more complicated as you cannot fit a wide
enough board through the opening in the cabin sole.  I used a fiberglass
cloth layup on a form across the bilge sump so I could get the cloth into
the space, I think I used 27 layers in one rather long layup.  I'd be happy
to go into more detail if you want to contact me offline.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove NY

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Dave S via CnC-List]

No doubt there are super cheap varieties out there, along with better stuff.
I have a really old roll, 20+ years.  Great stuff.  WhenI reinstall my deck 
hatches I’ll finally use it up or will run short.  Will need another big roll 
for the next 20!

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2022, at 6:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.
> While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving, under 
> head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to not move, 
> more firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)
> 
> Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
> 
>> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find it 
>> doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality 
>> products don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted, 
>> has had private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good 
>> for him)   Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging 
>> etc….
>> 
>> The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that for 
>> any refit, knowing it will outlast me.
>> Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
>> Dave 33-2 windstar 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
>>> 
>>> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it. 
>>> 
>>> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
>>> 
>>> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for 
>>> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 
>>> 1/8" x 3/4” 
>>> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.  
>>> 
>>> Here is the link to Amazon:
>>> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -
>>> Paul E.
>>> 1981 C Landfall 38 
>>> S/V Johanna Rose
>>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>>> 
>>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>>> 
 On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
> 
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape. 
>  I have both and find them similar.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> 
>> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is 
>> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
>> 
>> Chuck S
>>> 

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.
While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving, under
head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to not move,
more firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)

Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find
> it doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality
> products don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted,
> has had private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good
> for him)   Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging
> etc….
>
> The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that
> for any refit, knowing it will outlast me.
> Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
> Dave 33-2 windstar
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it.
>
> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
>
> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for
> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1
> 1/8" x 3/4”
> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.
>
> Here is the link to Amazon:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl
> tape.  I have both and find them similar.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is
> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Dave S,
You probably never used Bed-it.

FWIW, I rebedded my deck fittings and used an entire roll of Bed-it in all 
kinds of weather over a four year refit.  Deck fittings like; Cleats, padeyes, 
genoa tracks, winches, clutches, jamcleats, traveller, etc.  It worked great, 
always the same consistancey.  Always soft and pliable. But after using 50 ft,  
Bed-it became unavailable and I ordered Butyl tape from SailRite.  Not as good. 
 It often stuck to it's own paper so bad, it required a knife to scrape the 
paper off.   Harder to knead or roll or work with. 

Summary: Bed-it is superior to others and I may try the Dicor discussed, but 
"Bed-It" was a known solid performer and reliable.

Chuck S







> On 10/25/2022 5:25 PM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find 
> it doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality 
> products don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted, has 
> had private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good for 
> him)   Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging etc….
> 
> The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that 
> for any refit, knowing it will outlast me.
> Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
> Dave 33-2 windstar 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> > > On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it.
> > 
> > 
> > Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List 
> > :
> > 
> > > > > I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have 
> > been using it for several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See 
> > "Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4”
> > > x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.  
> > > 
> > > Here is the link to Amazon:
> > > 
> > > https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
> > > 
> > > 
> > > -
> > > Paul E.
> > > 1981 C Landfall 38 
> > > S/V Johanna Rose
> > > Fort Walton Beach, FL
> > > 
> > > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > > > On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John 
> > > Irvin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
> > > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > > > > > On Oct 25, 2022, at 
> > > > 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List  > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > >  If you can't get 
> > > > Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  I have both and 
> > > > find them similar.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Neil Schiller
> > > > > 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> > > > > Whitehall, Michigan
> > > > > 
> > > > > On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via 
> > > > > CnC-List wrote:
> > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > > > Still 
> > > > > looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is 
> > > > > sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Chuck S
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > 

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Dave S via CnC-List]

It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find it 
doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality products 
don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted, has had 
private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good for him)   
Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging etc….

The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that for any 
refit, knowing it will outlast me.
Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
Dave 33-2 windstar 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it. 
> 
> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
> 
> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for 
> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 
> 1/8" x 3/4” 
> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.  
> 
> Here is the link to Amazon:
> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  
>>> I have both and find them similar.
>>> 
>>> Neil Schiller
>>> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
>>> Whitehall, Michigan
>>> 
 On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
 Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is 
 sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
 
 Chuck S
> 

Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

As I stated earlier, I haven't looked at the support under Touche's forward
bolt.  However, I have rebuilt Touche's mast step support.  The
construction is similar.  There were 3-4 pieces of plywood spanning the
bilge.

Like Neil, I removed the wood.  I used a chisel.  It came out easily.  Then
I ground the shoulders of the bilge to expose fresh glass.  (Joe's point
about layers of oil, etc. is very germane.)  I made cardboard forms for the
forward and aft walls and floor of the step.  I then layered in epoxy glass
to the proper elevation and installed a new mast step box.

I think the repair of the structure around the forward bolt could be done
similarly if I'm visualizing the construction in that area correctly.
Replace those wood pieces with glass.

First, consider that any load will be borne by the shoulders of the bilge.
If you remove the old wood, you needn't have to remove all of the lower
portion, that is, the last 1/4 inch on top of the keel.  You may have to
cut those wood pieces vertically 2-3 inches aft of the bolt.  Mark or
measure the elevation of that bolt pad before you start removing stuff.
I'd think about removing about 3 inches below the bolt pad and 3-4 inches
aft of the bolt.  Now you've got a clear area all around that forward bolt.

Grind the bilge shoulders to expose fresh glass.  Make a form for the
forward wall and layer in glass up to the final elevation.  Use chilled
epoxy and roving.  Saturate the roving on a piece of waxed paper before
laying it in place.  If using a single wide strip of glass, cut a hole for
the bolt before you saturate it or just use a strip forward and a strip aft
of the bolt.  You should be able to lay in 3-5 layers per "lift" without
worrying about the epoxy glass overheating.

When you get close to final elevation, you could finish it with epoxy
thickened with colloidal silica or another compressive strength filler.
Apply some mold release compound or similar to the bottom of the stainless
bolt pad.  Apply a thick layer of thickened epoxy to the top of the last
lift of glass then put the bolt pad on it and snug it down with the keel
bolt nut.  Now you'll have a decent flat, level surface for the pad.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Yes, we're talking about just the small bolt forward.  I think you could 
do this without taking the mast step out, bit tight but there's no 
connection between the bolt/wood and the step.  You could just use glass 
cloth, but I wanted the thickness of the fiberglass board, particularly 
the vertical part.  Are you having issues with the wood compressing?  
That's what triggered my repair job.


My guess is that it's (the forward bolt) an afterthought, as I indicated 
the plan I have for the 35-1 doesn't even show it, only the six bigger 
ones aft.  I'll try to scan/post the drawing to show you what I mean.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/25/2022 3:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Not looking forward to this, I thought I was done fixing this stuff ☹

The stock mast step does not come out without a lot of help from a 
hammer and chisel, I spend days on my knees chopping it out. My new 
one won’t come out either, it is thoroughly epoxied to the boat. I am 
not sure if I have this issue, but if I do I’ll need to work around 
the mast step. The first problem will be the 49 years of old oil, 
scum, and algae that have made that glass probably as nonstick as Teflon.


That bolt sticks up some, I could add layers of G10 glass and epoxy 
right over it and still get the nut back on.


We are talking about the very forward bolt, right? I will be even more 
annoyed if I have to fix ALL of them! All the rest seem to torque up 
just fine and do not look obviously compromised.


If I end up having to take the mast step back apart you might just see 
the first C 35 trawler cruising around!


*/Joe Della Barba/*

Coquina

*From:* steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2022 2:59 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* steven.hic...@gmail.com
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel 
bolt material?


Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely 
helpful replies.


Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on 
top of the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the 
forward face, creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the 
lost height. And you left the wood blocks in place, encased in more 
resin, rather than replacing them with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was 
assuming I'd need to replace the blocks to avoid the same issue later.


Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very 
eaten away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of 
(am assuming) stainless steel that should be used?


As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't 
notice the fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until 
after tightening it to close the smile I added a picture before mostly 
filling the gap and will finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. 
There seemed to be lot of resin and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of 
cloth in the lower area above the joint, though I don't know what's 
original. Some of it had cracked. You can also see a hairline crack in 
the picture where, after grinding exposed it, water drops were slowly 
leaking out from water in the bilge.


As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to 
raise it a little and support it from below to get access underneath? 
Were you able to get to the wood board underneath and replace it 
without grinding out that big block of resin between it and the mast 
step?


The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it 
ready to go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from 
Glen Clove and have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get 
input from someone familiar with all of this.


Thank you so much for the help!

Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Steven,

I did leave the old wood in there.  Was a decision I had to make and 
wasn't sure what was the best approach, but yes, I enclosed it with the 
pieces I installed.  I thought the fiberglass would be strong enough.  I 
didn't have a backing plate on the bolt, just the washer, but after I 
had the crunching of the wood I put one in temporarily, maybe that's was 
done on your boat also?


I just happened to do both the mast step and the bolt at the same time, 
I think you could do them separately but access to the bolt was probably 
a lot easier with the mast step removed.  I had my mast pulled to 
replace the step, but I've heard suggestions that you could just raise 
it up and block it from the deck, though I don't think I'd be 
comfortable doing that for any length of time.


Getting the wood of the step out was easy, a Sawzall did the trick. 
Getting something in was a lot more complicated as you cannot fit a wide 
enough board through the opening in the cabin sole.  I used a fiberglass 
cloth layup on a form across the bilge sump so I could get the cloth 
into the space, I think I used 27 layers in one rather long layup.  I'd 
be happy to go into more detail if you want to contact me offline.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove NY

On 10/25/2022 2:58 PM, steven.hickel--- via CnC-List wrote:


Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely 
helpful replies.


Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on 
top of the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the 
forward face, creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the 
lost height. And you left the wood blocks in place, encased in more 
resin, rather than replacing them with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was 
assuming I'd need to replace the blocks to avoid the same issue later.


Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very 
eaten away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of 
(am assuming) stainless steel that should be used?


As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't 
notice the fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until 
after tightening it to close the smile I added a picture before mostly 
filling the gap and will finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. 
There seemed to be lot of resin and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of 
cloth in the lower area above the joint, though I don't know what's 
original. Some of it had cracked. You can also see a hairline crack in 
the picture where, after grinding exposed it, water drops were slowly 
leaking out from water in the bilge.


As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to 
raise it a little and support it from below to get access underneath? 
Were you able to get to the wood board underneath and replace it 
without grinding out that big block of resin between it and the mast 
step?


The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it 
ready to go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from 
Glen Clove and have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get 
input from someone familiar with all of this.


Thank you so much for the help!

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I thought of doing just that Joe if I ever lost the mast. Probably close to
impossible to find a replacement. A trawler would work and if not that a
backyard lawn ornament or man cave.

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 4:09 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not looking forward to this, I thought I was done fixing this stuff ☹
>
> The stock mast step does not come out without a lot of help from a hammer
> and chisel, I spend days on my knees chopping it out. My new one won’t come
> out either, it is thoroughly epoxied to the boat. I am not sure if I have
> this issue, but if I do I’ll need to work around the mast step. The first
> problem will be the 49 years of old oil, scum, and algae that have made
> that glass probably as nonstick as Teflon.
>
> That bolt sticks up some, I could add layers of G10 glass and epoxy right
> over it and still get the nut back on.
>
> We are talking about the very forward bolt, right? I will be even more
> annoyed if I have to fix ALL of them! All the rest seem to torque up just
> fine and do not look obviously compromised.
>
> If I end up having to take the mast step back apart you might just see the
> first C 35 trawler cruising around!
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2022 2:59 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* steven.hic...@gmail.com
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt
> material?
>
>
>
> Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely
> helpful replies.
>
> Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on top
> of the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the forward
> face, creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the lost height.
> And you left the wood blocks in place, encased in more resin, rather than
> replacing them with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was assuming I'd need to
> replace the blocks to avoid the same issue later.
>
> Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very
> eaten away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of (am
> assuming) stainless steel that should be used?
>
> As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't notice
> the fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until after
> tightening it to close the smile I added a picture before mostly filling
> the gap and will finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. There seemed
> to be lot of resin and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of cloth in the lower
> area above the joint, though I don't know what's original. Some of it had
> cracked. You can also see a hairline crack in the picture where, after
> grinding exposed it, water drops were slowly leaking out from water in the
> bilge.
>
> As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to raise
> it a little and support it from below to get access underneath? Were you
> able to get to the wood board underneath and replace it without grinding
> out that big block of resin between it and the mast step?
>
> The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it ready
> to go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from Glen Clove
> and have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get input from
> someone familiar with all of this.
>
> Thank you so much for the help!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Joe, Love your post. 
I'm on my boat over at a slip on Broad Creek, Magothy River and struggling with 
several challenges onboard. 

I saw some rips and holes in my genoa when sailing on Sunday.  I thought I was 
clever, dropping the sail while tacking the boat solo onto the deck.  I flaked 
it loosely and rolled it up, while the autohelm steered and then it started to 
rain harder and harder.  I lifted the wet sail off the deck and put it on the 
dock.  Waited till today, zero wind, to lift it back onboard and hoist the sail 
up the furler and shake out the rain water.  Couple hours later, I got to lower 
the sail again and reflake it.  It's not dry, but a lot smaller and less water 
going into my subaru wagon for the ride home.   I hope to patch the small holes 
at home, but it may be shot.  I'm also working on an electrical wiring issue 
and your post made me laugh out loud as I am going nuts with some old wiring 
issues. 

I don't have any advice, but I owe you a beer next we meet.

Cheers,
Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Magothy River, Md

> On 10/25/2022 3:08 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Not looking forward to this, I thought I was done fixing this stuff ☹
> 
> The stock mast step does not come out without a lot of help from a hammer 
> and chisel, I spend days on my knees chopping it out. My new one won’t come 
> out either, it is thoroughly epoxied to the boat. I am not sure if I have 
> this issue, but if I do I’ll need to work around the mast step. The first 
> problem will be the 49 years of old oil, scum, and algae that have made that 
> glass probably as nonstick as Teflon.
> 
> That bolt sticks up some, I could add layers of G10 glass and epoxy right 
> over it and still get the nut back on.
> 
> We are talking about the very forward bolt, right? I will be even more 
> annoyed if I have to fix ALL of them! All the rest seem to torque up just 
> fine and do not look obviously compromised.
> 
> If I end up having to take the mast step back apart you might just see 
> the first C 35 trawler cruising around!
> 
> 
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
> 
> From: steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2022 2:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: steven.hic...@gmail.com
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt 
> material?
> 
> 
> Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely 
> helpful replies.
> 
> Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on 
> top of the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the 
> forward face, creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the lost 
> height. And you left the wood blocks in place, encased in more resin, rather 
> than replacing them with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was assuming I'd need to 
> replace the blocks to avoid the same issue later.
> 
> Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very 
> eaten away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of (am 
> assuming) stainless steel that should be used?
> 
> As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't notice 
> the fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until after 
> tightening it to close the smile I added a picture before mostly filling the 
> gap and will finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. There seemed to be 
> lot of resin and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of cloth in the lower area 
> above the joint, though I don't know what's original. Some of it had cracked. 
> You can also see a hairline crack in the picture where, after grinding 
> exposed it, water drops were slowly leaking out from water in the bilge.
> 
> As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to 
> raise it a little and support it from below to get access underneath? Were 
> you able to get to the wood board underneath and replace it without grinding 
> out that big block of resin between it and the mast step?
> 
> The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it 
> ready to go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from Glen 
> Clove and have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get input from 
> someone familiar with all of this.
> 
> Thank you so much for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Not looking forward to this, I thought I was done fixing this stuff ☹
The stock mast step does not come out without a lot of help from a hammer and 
chisel, I spend days on my knees chopping it out. My new one won’t come out 
either, it is thoroughly epoxied to the boat. I am not sure if I have this 
issue, but if I do I’ll need to work around the mast step. The first problem 
will be the 49 years of old oil, scum, and algae that have made that glass 
probably as nonstick as Teflon.
That bolt sticks up some, I could add layers of G10 glass and epoxy right over 
it and still get the nut back on.
We are talking about the very forward bolt, right? I will be even more annoyed 
if I have to fix ALL of them! All the rest seem to torque up just fine and do 
not look obviously compromised.
If I end up having to take the mast step back apart you might just see the 
first C 35 trawler cruising around!


Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2022 2:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: steven.hic...@gmail.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?


Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely helpful 
replies.

Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on top of 
the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the forward face, 
creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the lost height. And you left 
the wood blocks in place, encased in more resin, rather than replacing them 
with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was assuming I'd need to replace the blocks to 
avoid the same issue later.

Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very eaten 
away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of (am assuming) 
stainless steel that should be used?

As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't notice the 
fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until after tightening it 
to close the smile I added a picture before mostly filling the gap and will 
finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. There seemed to be lot of resin 
and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of cloth in the lower area above the joint, 
though I don't know what's original. Some of it had cracked. You can also see a 
hairline crack in the picture where, after grinding exposed it, water drops 
were slowly leaking out from water in the bilge.

As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to raise it a 
little and support it from below to get access underneath? Were you able to get 
to the wood board underneath and replace it without grinding out that big block 
of resin between it and the mast step?

The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it ready to 
go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from Glen Clove and 
have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get input from someone 
familiar with all of this.

Thank you so much for the help!

Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[steven.hickel--- via CnC-List]

Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely helpful 
replies. 

Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on top of 
the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the forward face, 
creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the lost height. And you left 
the wood blocks in place, encased in more resin, rather than replacing them 
with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was assuming I'd need to replace the blocks to 
avoid the same issue later. 

Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very eaten 
away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of (am assuming) 
stainless steel that should be used? 

As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't notice the 
fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until after tightening it 
to close the smile I added a picture before mostly filling the gap and will 
finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. There seemed to be lot of resin 
and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of cloth in the lower area above the joint, 
though I don't know what's original. Some of it had cracked. You can also see a 
hairline crack in the picture where, after grinding exposed it, water drops 
were slowly leaking out from water in the bilge. 

As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to raise it a 
little and support it from below to get access underneath? Were you able to get 
to the wood  board underneath and replace it without grinding out that big 
block of resin between it and the mast step? 

The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it ready to 
go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from Glen Clove and 
have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get input from someone 
familiar with all of this.

Thank you so much for the help!

Stus-List Start panel mystery

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  
Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a 
head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now 
and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, glow 
plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get start out so 
gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next week and no 
response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. 
Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring 
and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are 
supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and misremembered 
which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and checked meter and 
12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key switch and fuel pump 
starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine 
panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at its 
inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over an 
hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. 
What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was backwards?  Dave

Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I agree that the quality of the Edson product is first rate, but support 
service seems to have slipped somewhat from what it was when I bought 
replacement parts from them in 2002 when I converted from tiller to wheel and 
again in 2015 when the mild steel idler plate rusted through.  When I couldn't 
fit the new idler plate into the boat, they were not helpful, but 
argumentative, including Rob Ball who designed both my boat and the new 
aluminum idler plate.  Ultimately, I had to fabricate my own shimming bezel to 
raise the pedestal base to accept the thicker part underneath.  I also had to 
grind off the SS towers supporting the sheaves, to fit into the fiberglass well 
in the cockpit floor.  

The C poster stated that Edson couldn't recommend what size cable and chain 
kit would fit his boat.

FWIW, The 37/40 model and later 34/36 model share the same design for the wheel 
with above deck idler plate and quadrant.  They built at least 200 of these 
boats from 1988 to 1996 and other boat builders used the same feature in their 
boats at that time.  The Hunter 35.5 and 37.5 have the same steering 
arrangement from Edson.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Magothy River, Md 





   


   





> On 10/25/2022 7:49 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  
> When I worked at Edson, you could determine the parts installed in a 
> particular boat by the pedestal serial number, located under the compass.   
> Edson kept invoices arranged by the numeric order of the serial number that 
> showed what components were sold along with the pedestal.
> Since Edson has new ownership as of 2 years ago, they may no longer keep 
> those records but you can give it a whirl.  
> But in Edson’s defense, how many marine components suppliers know exactly 
> what gear was installed into boats 30-40 years ago when the builder went out 
> of business?  Saying they have bad customer service because C chose to 
> change a rather standard component installation on a single model is a bit 
> harsh in my opinion.  The mere fact that most of their gear has held up over 
> time with minimal attention to servicing and maintenance speaks for itself.
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Leeward Rail via CnC-List]

Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it.

Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :

> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for 
> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 
> 1/8" x 3/4” 
> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.  
> 
> Here is the link to Amazon:
> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  
>>> I have both and find them similar.
>>> 
>>> Neil Schiller
>>> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
>>> Whitehall, Michigan
>>> 
>>> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
 Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is 
 sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
 
 Chuck S
> 

Stus-List Re: re set password

[Stu via CnC-List]

To reset your password -- go to https://cnc-list.com/login  click on 
Forgot Password -- you will get an email to reset your password.


Stu

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Leeward Rail via CnC-List]

Dicor Butyl tape... Thanks for the info!  I may just try it, even though I will 
get Bed-It when available.

Oct. 25, 2022 7:00:08 a.m. schiller via CnC-List :

> If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  I 
> have both and find them similar.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> 
> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is sold 
>> out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?
>> 
>> Chuck S
> 

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Leeward Rail via CnC-List]

Life safe butyl is not the same quality as bed it.

windshield tape isn't the same idea as normal butyl which is meant to be formed 
into whatever shape you want. (at least when I installed windshields 4 or 5 
years ago)

Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec

[rockland bazemore via CnC-List]

Hey Chuck, I replaced the chain/cable on mine last year. They looked it up
and got me the right one. They may have consulted Rob. Don't forget the
wire rope criss-crosses in the pedestal. The instructions aren't very
clear. Of course one of the aluminum bolts that held the pedestal down
broke when taking the idler plate out. Mcmaster to the rescue. And some
major project creep. Luckily my plate wasn't too bad and I treated it with
POR.
Here is what my invoice says:

KIT 77201 Sale 487.0

C KIT 2 FT #50, 9 FT 1/4" 7X19 WIRE W/ HW & CHAINCARE+

-- 
Rockland Bazemore
S/V Blue Pearl
C 37/40+
Port Washington, NY

Stus-List re set password

[Tom Alessi via CnC-List]

I would like to reset my password.

Tom Alessi
ANDIAMO 36’
646-283-1580

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Eugene Cormier via CnC-List]

Seems to be in stock at the Binnacle

https://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9043

Eugene

On Mon, 2022-10-24 at 23:16 -0400, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
wrote:
> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check
> is sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
> 
> Chuck S

-- 
Eugene Cormier
~~_/)~
Full-time Instructor
Acadia University
www.eugenecormier.com
eugenecorm...@gmail.com
Office: Denton Hall Rm.235
Office Hours: 
Phone: (902) 585-1329

---
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on this email, and should promptly delete this email from your entire
computer system.

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for 
several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" 
x 3/4” 
x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.  

Here is the link to Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  I 
>> have both and find them similar.
>> 
>> Neil Schiller
>> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
>> Whitehall, Michigan
>> 
>> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is 
>>> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
>>> 
>>> Chuck S

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Try Apple Auto glass. Their windshield tape does the job.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List  
wrote:

 If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  I 
have both and find them similar.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan

On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is sold 
out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?

Chuck S

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[schiller via CnC-List]

If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  
I have both and find them similar.


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan

On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check 
is sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?


Chuck S

Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

When I worked at Edson, you could determine the parts installed in a particular 
boat by the pedestal serial number, located under the compass.   Edson kept 
invoices arranged by the numeric order of the serial number that showed what 
components were sold along with the pedestal.
Since Edson has new ownership as of 2 years ago, they may no longer keep those 
records but you can give it a whirl.  
But in Edson’s defense, how many marine components suppliers know exactly what 
gear was installed into boats 30-40 years ago when the builder went out of 
business?  Saying they have bad customer service because C chose to change a 
rather standard component installation on a single model is a bit harsh in my 
opinion.  The mere fact that most of their gear has held up over time with 
minimal attention to servicing and maintenance speaks for itself.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35