Stus-List C&C 37+ Bimini Enclosure (side awning)

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Wondering if anyone has any good pictures of enclosure windows added to
biminis on 37+ or similar boats?

The real concern that I have is trying to somehow adapt these to
accommodate the traveler (and main sheet) that would disrupt a normal full
enclosure from being effective while sailing.

We have a connector bit we can attach the bimini & dodger when at anchor
(or not sailing, the main sheet needs to be released from the traveler and
pinned to the rail), but did want to add some enclosure windows for our
cruising here in the PNW.


Chris Riedinger
(860)302-9608
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Our 37+ has a keyway; curious where you exposed the post if maybe the
keyway is only partway down the post

On Sun, Apr 19, 2020, 6:44 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> According to the 37+/40 build specs , the rudder post is supposed to be
> 3.15” OD 1.97” ID SS bar.
>
> Though mine is closer to 3” OD I suspect it is still hollow with an ID of
> ~ 1.75” or so.  That’s still plenty of steel to drill through, but way less
> hassle the hauling and dropping the rudder.
>
> The adventure continues...
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Apr 19, 2020, at 4:30 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 16:24:46 -0700
> From: Bryan Colwell 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> 1991 34+ post is hollow. Way too heavy if it was solid.
>
> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 4:17 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Good lord!  Drill through 3 inches of stainless steel!  Nope!  That one is
>
> going to the machine shop for me.  I don't care if it is a cobalt bit and
>
> guided.  The machine shop could put in a keyway while you have it out
>
> instead of a hole.
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020, 19:04 Bryan Colwell via CnC-List <
>
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Tom,
>
>
> I had the same issue on my 34+, no keyway.  I called Edson and they said
>
> you must drill through the post.  The Edson arm has a hole on one end which
>
> guides the drill to the opposite side. Then you finish by drilling through
>
> the bronze arm for the bolt. Be sure and use a cobalt drill bit to get
>
> through the stainless rudder post.
>
>
> Bryan Colwell
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 3:19 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
>
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I am moving forward with the below deck linear drive install. We put in
>
> the structural support and then exposed the rudder post.  However a few
>
> oddities.
>
>
> First, in spite of the build plans calling for an 80mm diameter rudder
>
> post it is, in fact, 75mm.   And, although the Images that Josh posted if
>
> his install show a keyway on his post, mine does not have one.
>
>
> I?ll check with Edson to see what they recommend for attaching the
>
> tiller arm.
>
>
> Sigh...
>
>
> Stay safe all.
>
>
> Tom B
>
>
> Typoed from my iPhone
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
>
> Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40
>
> Vashon Island WA
>
> O 206.463.9200
>
> C 305.409.3660
>
> Skype - thombusc
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

A proper outside/yard machinist should have the facilities in ready to
quickly and with relative ease do this type of work for you.

I know this might sound like a great project, but even with my experience
in manufacturing and fixturing and machining, I would probably still call
someone with a proper portable drill press to do this work.  I know of one
shop local to me who has such facilities, let me know if you want their
contact info- owner is a liveaboard even!




On Mon, Apr 20, 2020, 1:27 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Chuck.  I had measured using a old style caliper and then reading
> it on the scale on my digital caliper which came out as 75mm.  But after
> your caution I decided to waits for a real micrometer to get the true(r)
> measurement.
>
> I think that drilling the hole for the through bold will be a huge PITA as
> the short end of the arm is facing the transom and the vertical support we
> put in to reenforce the deck.  Also, there's not much room there.  Should
> be fun...
>
> Tom B
>
> At 06:46 AM 4/20/2020, you wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 08:11:17 -0400
> From: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40
> Message-ID: <01ec01d6170c$cc1ce360$6456aa20$@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="UTF-8"
>
> Tom,
> Thought I'd weigh in as a former Edsonite..  The most important thing to
> realize when installing the autopilot is that the clamping action of the
> arm and cap for the tiller arm is the primary form of attachment to the
> rudder post.  Edson makes the arm with a .002" clamping tolerance to the
> diameter of the rudder post.  The secondary or "failsafe" attachment is a
> key, through bolt, or set screws.  When you order your tiller arm, don't
> assume that C&C always used the same diameter stainless post for every boat
> and model.  It's important to get precise measurement of the post where you
> wish to attach the arm, preferably using a digital caliper to achieve the
> proper tolerance.  Measure the exact diameter of the post, and take several
> measurements as you rotate the caliper around the post at a variety of
> positions where the tiller arm will attach.  When Edson bores the arm to
> your specification, they'll insert a small piece of paper between the arm
> and cap.  Removing it will give the arm the proper undersized clamping
> tolerance needed for the arm to grab the post without slippage.  Again, the
> keyway or through bolt should prevent the arm from rotating ONLY if the
> clamping tolerance is compromised, as in a hard grounding, rudder stop
> failure, or other drastic event.
>
> As you've found, if there's no accessible keyway cut in the post, the
> through bolt method is preferred if the post is hollow (typical with  SS
> posts) or set screws if the post is solid (usually with a bronze rudder
> post).  Getting the arm positioned to drill the post and tiller arm can be
> problematic, finding a drill bit long enough to get it in place and then
> drilling through the hard steel (thus the need for a carbide bit and some
> lubricating oil to prevent work hardening the bit) but avoid the temptation
> to "pre drill" the arm before installing on the post.  This is because the
> likelihood of you being able to match up the holes on the post with the
> holes on the arm are not great given the confined space you'll have to work
> with and the difficulty of keeping the drill level while you work.
> The tiller arm has a very important plus side as it enables your autopilot
> to serve as an emergency tiller in the event of a steering system failure
> such as a fractured radial drive, cable breakage or idler failure.
> Finally, make sure that the autopilot isn't set up as the rudder stop as
> damage to the autopilot can occur.
> Good luck with the install and Edson is a good source for advice..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>
> >From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Tom
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> >Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 6:19 PM
>  ...snip...
> >... greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to
> send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Heaviest reasonable anchor with 40 ft. of chain without a windlass?

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I would suggest adding more chain if your current anchor hadn't been giving
you any problems...

On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 4:40 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have a C&C 37/40+ with a 15 kg/35 lb. Delta anchor and 4' of 8 MM
> chain.  I can get the anchor up reasonably easily.  I am thinking of
> upgrading the anchor to a 45 lb. Rocna or Mantus M1 because that is the
> size recommended by the manufacturer.  My only concern is whether I'm going
> to find it particularly difficult to pull up without a windlass.
>
> I have a good anchor roller, and have installed a chain lock so I can
> pause if needed because the boat swings or to help pull the anchor out once
> we get the rode/chain vertical.
>
> I'm not a hugely muscular guy, just a typical 5' 9" guy in his later 50s.
>
> I'd really like to avoid putting in a windlass, at least for now and the
> Delta has held pretty well in the sandy bottom here in west Florida.
>
> Thanks for your insights
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

What size Genoa is that John?

We have separate tracks on our coachroof for the #3 sail, but looking at
your setup it makes me wonder if I should sheet from the Genoa track...



On Thu, May 14, 2020, 5:40 AM John Conklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>Here is my set up last Sunday Beautiful day !  hope this works
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jrPKrHpaQz67PlOvl29B8t7jy8jYZlsW
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HCWLmp-yQXHN6GP7o1e51vzIItLGhHMP
>
>
>
> John Conklin
>
> S/V Halcyon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *John Conklin via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:23 AM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *John Conklin 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C&C-34
>
>
>
> I do a lot of single handing on my 37 and my main sheet is up on the coach
> roof. I trim it proper and don’t touch during tack (well maybe a little
> tweaking after)  I have to get in front of the wheel for the genny sheets
> but its worth the effort during Covid. Full length Lazzarette locker means
> I could only gain a little mounting in front of Companion way, and still
> not be able to reach.   Bigger problem for me is the back and forth
> dropping the main halyard which is also under dodger, especially while my
> Auto pilot is still not working properly (still cant get wheel off) Sure I
> look funny going around in circles out there , but worth every bit of
> effort these days to get out! Yearning to have just 1 crew back would be
> great!
>
>
>
> John Conklin
>
> S/V Halcyon
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Wednesday, May 13, 2020 9:52 PM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C&C-34
>
>
>
> A friend has two travellers on his 32 footer, though it's not a C&C.  The
> coachroof traveller is used for cruising and the one across the front of
> the cockpit seats is used for racing.  His mainsheet purchase had two sets
> of bails and we would move the purchase at the dock.  He still can't
> singlehand because he sits behind a wheel and can't reach the mainsheet.
> There should be a way to keep your traveler where it is, and rework the
> purchase so the dead end of the line leads back to the end of the boom to a
> block and then down to a swivel cleat on the cockpit floor in front of the
> wheel, where you could reach around and adjust the line while steering.
> You may need to get a longer mainsheet.
>
>
>
> FWIW, I moved my traveller fifteen years ago to have a nice setup in front
> of my wheel, I can send pictures if you like.
>
>
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 13, 2020 at 9:02 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I was going to say I like the cabin top arrangement for cruising (not so
> much for racing) because the traveler and sheet are out of the cockpit,
> where everyone likes to sit.  My 42 Custom has the same arrangement as the
> 34 (the boat is basically a big version of the 34 or 36, with the keel
> swept back slightly more).  The main is a bit of a pain to trim when
> shorthanded, but on balance I like it where it is – out of the way.
>
>
>
> Matt Wolford
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Marek
> Dziedzic via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2020 8:41 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C&C-34
>
>
>
> I guess it depends on the wife. I had a traveller right across the cockpit
> on our previous boat. It was great for adjusting the sails, but it was also
> great to hit my wife on the shins. The current boat has a traveller on the
> cabin top, and it was a “must have” requirement for this boat.
>
>
>
> It is almost the same discussion as the wheel vs. tiller.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Pamela & David via CnC-List
> *Sent:* 13 May, 2020 22:23
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Pamela & David 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C&C-34
>
>
>
> Hello
>
>
>
> Has any one moved the mainsheet traveler from the cabin top to just in
> front the wheel?  When sailing wife the wife I find adjustments to the main
> difficult at times.  Have tried playing with the traveler but the sheet
> tension is the problems.
>
> Any thoughts
>
>
>
> David
>
> MUDPUDDLE ( Whitby)
>
>
>
> [image: Image removed by sender.]
> 
>
> Virus-free. www.avg.com
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this lis

Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/g1ViKUJJeLnRauD47

Here's ours

On Mon, May 25, 2020, 12:22 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Len,
>
> Many people will say you should not attach your autopilot to your
> quadrant, but instead install another independent arm onto the rudder shaft.
>
> Still, ours is attached to our quadrant (Radial Wheel) and we've had no
> problems with it there in 12 years.  We aren't sailing around the world
> though.
>
> Photos here:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Mon, 25 May 2020 at 15:31, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation
>> to the quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck
>> pics. TIA
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs
>> 1989 37+
>> Midland On.
>>
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37/40 wine storage

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Your table doesn't have storage built in??


https://photos.app.goo.gl/X6djc3hJBsHPRbxd9

On Fri, Jun 19, 2020, 7:57 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone come up with an innovative solution for wine storage on a
> 37/40? It would be nice to have enough room in the coolish bilge but there
> isn’t room.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I glued in a new jefa bearing into a perfectly prepped grp hull, PYI the
local dealer, recommended sika291.

Got a lift on the boat, set the rudder underneath, put it back on the
stands.

Jack up that rudder and without even getting fully into the bearing, the
whole bearing assembly slid up and into the boat, mucking up all that work.

After using 209 primer, you can probably (not that I know) jack the boat
nearly off the stands with the sika291..

I'm not sure how much piece of mind is worth to many folks who are trying
to avoid the primer cost..  but maybe consider contacting the local dealer
and see if a rep can get you an ounce or two.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Make sure to seal the threads FULLY with loctite or antiseize (choose your
antiseize wisely here..) when reassembling.

Also be sure the new screws are 316ss, lots of poor quality 'stainless'
hardware out there. Go to your local ace hardware or similar, 18-8 is not
suitable in a marine environment IMO.

I often find that many applications of penetrating oil may be necessary
where corrosion has inhabited threaded products. I try to use a hook/pick
to remove any visible corrosion to help penetration of oil.

Heat is often an option for me. I have a battery powered heat gun that has
a 'concentrator' tip- the flip side of this is using compressed air in a
can- super cold on the bolt to shrink it a bit. Remember that heat
"expanding" makes everything tighter (but might break bonds of corrosion),
you need the male component to be smaller.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List starter or wire connection

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Hitting electric motors often results in broken magnets inside the motor
and then more problems.

I would pull the starter and have it bench tested. Likely you will find
some crunchy/corroded wiring in the process.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I'm 32 and Jenna just turned 34, our 37/40 is a little younger than us at
barely 27...
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ (or XL or R) Windlass Install

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I have a vertical Maxwell 800 mounted on a plate glassed in below the
anchor locker door.

I can get pictures at lunch.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020, 10:19 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> To Any Listers with a C&C 37+, XL or R with an Electric Windlass Installed,
>
> There appears to be a gravitational anomaly occurring in this part of the
> planet where my anchor and chain seem to get heavier and heavier as each
> year passes, so I’m now in the market for an electric windlass.
>
> I’ve seen some of the installation blogs, but I’m curious if there are any
> C&C 37+, XL or R owners on the list who have one installed, which model
> they chose, and would be willing to share some photos of their setup, both
> above and below deck.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ (or XL or R) Windlass Install

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mvou6UnYunf9NKJA6
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass for a C&C 37+

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

After seeing a 37 come into the yard I work at, I am more firmly in the
camp that the windlass should be mounted sub-deck.

This boat had the windlass mounted forward of the hatch, which provides the
ultimate in lack of drop for the chain fall, whoever thought this was a
good idea ever considered this.

On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 11:30 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> As you may remember, I’m close to a decision on adding an anchor windlass
> to my 37+ C&C, and, based on my research, I think this may be the one to go
> with:
>
> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=4119164
>
> For mounting, I think I’m going to create a hanging shelf inside the
> anchor locker that is attached by several bolts to the starboard and aft
> most lip that the hatch rests upon when closed.
>
> Good plan? Reconsider? Better ideas?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

We do about 7 with a 3 blade maxprop and a yanmar 3gm, our bottom gets
wiped every few months but we try to take it out often enough that the
ablative does it's job. Diver never complains about hard growth.

Any of you have propspeed or barnacle barrier applied to prop or shaft?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Motor mounts could be replaced with carefully located wood blocks and a
porta-power or bottle/scissor jack... Or maybe get some fine-pitch
allthread and make yourself a jack of sorts

You would have to re-align shaft/coupler.

I would recommend looking at your mounts to see if you can move at all, or
if they are maxxed out. You can loosen the coupler bolts, crack the
couplers away from each other just a bit, and find out which way your
engine needs to go. Say you find .006" gap on stbd and .012 on Port, .000
on lower, and .006" on upper, motor needs to come up some on the front
mounts, and go a bit to port. So you move your mounts (symmetrical side to
side, so make sure you are going up straight and not twisting) up a few
turns on the front mounts (I like to paint or marker one side of the hex
nut so I can easily count turns). Check your alignment. Then the real fun
begins. Hopefully your mounts have some small side-to side adjustment
allowable (maybe the mounting holes are just slightly oblong or have a
milled slot). Loosen one side's mount at a time and 'nudge' the motor a
little bit, tighten the mounts back down. Check your alignment again.

Hopefully this explains some of the reason why getting an engine replaced
is so expensive. This is very time consuming work, often performed in the
worst possible access areas of a boat.




Chris Riedinger
(860)302-9608
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

We have 2x 100w semi-flexible mounted in soft frames (sailrite does an
excellent tutorial on this) on our Bimini since March and have been out on
a few week long cruises since then, I can pleasantly report not running out
of juice. We have 2x 8D agm batteries and also have autopilot, an isotherm
cold plate, etc.

No TV and no AC (as we're in the PNW).. but I can charge my drone, laptops,
have enough left in the morning to comfortably fire the diesel hot air
heater, and even on overcast days, seeing about 30-50w each panel.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I also ran two charge controllers (blue sea 75/15) so that if there is
shading on one panel, you don't get hit with a net zero input..
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Screw removal

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I'll fifth the impact. But only if the threads are clean and no corrosion
on the fasteners (because they'll just break)

Otherwise, heat is more your friend. And heat the shit out of it. Map
torch, oxy/acetylene, etc
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Screw removal

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Anti seize in dissimilar metals will be worse than nothing at all.

Tefgel if installing stainless fasteners in aluminum
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: From richard

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Good fricken luck

That tank is accessible by removing the head sink and surround trim.

Our dip tube broke off inside the tank, so I reached my arm into our (very
full) tank, reconnected the dip tube, then pumped out the tank, promptly
bought an airhead composting toilet, removed all of the old marine head
plumbing etc and cut out the tank in pieces (since removing it in one piece
is quite labor intensive), and installed the airhead.

We live aboard and I think the airhead was one of our better improvements.

I used the extra space under the sink to add a diesel heater and ran the
vents into the head and our aft cabin. It dries out our gear
exceptionally well and warms our toes on cold nights when the electric
radiator in the salon isn't enough.. I digress 😁


On Mon, Apr 5, 2021, 3:45 PM richard hosker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good Day
>
>
>
> I am new to the C@C email list
>
> I have been receiving emails re discussion.
>
>
>
> I have purchased a C@C 37+ Malo no 9
>
> I bought the sailboat a few months ago and know she lives in San Diego
>
> I have been doing maintenance and been sailing her, she is a great boat
>
>
>
> I have had a slight issue over the last week. I have tried to look on the
> forum re my issue but could not find anything
>
>
>
> My holding tank in the bathroom area under the sink has developed a hole
> at the bottom and I need to replace this unit
>
>
>
> Can anyone help me with the issue of a new tank and installation
>
>
>
> Richard Hosker
>
> rhva...@hotmail.com
>
> Malo C@C 37+ 1989 hull no 9
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Pipe fittings for overboard discharge

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I would just make sure that everything glued is strapped down to avoid
vibration

Anything that sees uv light should be appropriately rated

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021, 6:24 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>
> When I bought Astralis, there were 90 degree white PVC elbows coming out
> of the strainer leading to the engine and a grey plastic (PVC?) tail pipe
> leading to a seacock through which the sink and A/C drain.  If those were
> the same on yours, I suspect they were put in by the factory.  At any rate,
> I (finally) replaced them after about 4 years of ownership, as the surveyor
> noted a preference for bronze.  That said, they were below the waterline
> and would subject the boat to flooding if broken.
>
> As for what it sounds like you're suggesting for the bilge pump, I see no
> reason why it would be problematic, though I have to ask, what would the
> advantage be over a good quality hose?
>
> Hope you're doing well,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: CnC44 Mast Height for Bridge Clearance

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Sounds close. I would back down to it

On Tue, May 4, 2021, 7:55 AM Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

> We are in Jacksonville Fl. And planning to go under the Buckman Bridge
> which has a clearance at mean high water of 65'. I read that there is a 5'
> tide change here in Jacksonville. I calculated our clearance from the
> waterline to 63'8" (not including antennae) can another C&C44 owner please
> confirm this with me that my calculations are accurate before we attempt
> this bridge? (At low tide)
>
> C&C44 mast specs:
> Mast 65’5” total, 58’5” deck to masthead, 7’ below decks
> 63' 8" our waterline to top of mast (minus antennae)
>
> Thanks so much,
>
> Dan Cormier
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
> CANADA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 37+ Cockpit Shower

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Be careful, getting into that plumbing could open up a big can of worms. If
you have the same gray pre-pex type flexible PVC tubing and fittings, a lot
of ours have been found to be in poor shape, cracking and weeping

On Fri, Aug 6, 2021, 8:46 AM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi
> The cold water is not turning on.  Any advice on replacing the cockpit
> shower valve assembly /fixture what can be used?
>
> -Rob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Also wondering if 'dont understand' goes a little deeper here


Do you mean the mechanical pump on your block or?

Why are you chasing a fuel pump issue? Do you have a no-start? A boat dying
after a certain amount of time? Etc etc

On Wed, Sep 22, 2021, 10:19 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> If there’s only one terminal on the pump itself then the metal chassis
> must be the ground.
>
> If you are referring to a schematic the ground wire may not be
> illustrated.
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 22, 2021, at 10:16 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I am trying to diagnose fuel issue. I dont understand pump wiring.
> There appears to be only one wire to pump. Where is it grounded?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Unusual C&Cs for sale

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

It's even better than the tagline

The name of the boat is

"Phecal Freak"



On Wed, May 11, 2022, 7:40 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There is a pumpout boat in Roche Harbor, San Juan Island, WA. It has a big
> sign that says: "We take crap from anyone"
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 7:33 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I had no idea they made holding tank pumpout boats, but apparently they
>> did or someone made a typo:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2002-c$c-pumpout-boat-7322319/
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

Stus-List Re: vented loops

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Many folks don't have a problem with anything and thus don't
change anything.

The real problem arises if you have a crack or leak beyond the failed
vented loop and you're below the waterline, away from the boat for
extended periods of time, etc


Normal operation of items in service beyond vented loops have intentional
limits on the seawater entry.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2022, 8:17 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> John,
>
> Here's a pic of the vented wet exhaust riser on Touche'.  At least I think
> that's what it is.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r-3xSbChZeio35MrFSmtN03y6VW6ugKz/view?usp=sharing
>
> It's the fiberglass loop at the top.  Don't ask me how it works.  Don't
> ask me about the loop at the other end of the little gray hose, either.
> I'm completely ignorant of this configuration.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Jun 30, 2022 at 9:46 AM John Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Interesting – have not heard or seen vented loops used this way.  My 34
>> does not have them and no problems in 40 years
>>
>>
>>
>> John Read
>>
>> Legacy III
>>
>> 1982 C&C 34
>>
>> Noank, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 29, 2022 5:20 PM
>> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list
>> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER
>> *Subject:* Stus-List vented loops
>>
>>
>>
>> Learned the hard way how to test vented loops.
>>
>>
>>
>> I was changing engine hoses and came upon an original, 33 year old,
>> bronze, vented loop for the engine cooling water.  It's located between the
>> heat exchanger and the injection elbow of the exhaust riser.  It's purpose
>> is to break a siphon and prevent water flooding the engine and the boat
>> when the engine is off.  Mine was filled with scale and no longer
>> operational.
>>
>>
>>
>> The following comes from info included with a new Forespar vented loop.
>> To test a vented loop, you blow air through the vent from outside into the
>> tubing, through the "duck bill" rubber thing, and that's it.  If air won't
>> penetrate, it's clogged and should be cleaned.  If the thing leaks, it
>> probably needs cleaning or a new rubber duck bill.
>>
>>
>>
>> I replaced the Forespar rubber duckbill, $15, on my bilge pump hose and I
>> replaced the entire loop fitting $44 on the engine hose using a Forespar
>> 5/8" vented loop.  Now both of my vented loops use the same duckbill vent
>> and have the same size retaining nut so a simple clear two foot length of
>> 3/4" hose can be pushed over the fitting to facilitate testing either
>> vented loop.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have to add that I never had a problem in twenty years of ownership and
>> ingnored these items until I started replacing hoses.  I'd be glad to hear
>> anyone else's ideas on this.
>>
>>
>>
>> Chuck S
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List 37/40+ shift cable and steering cable

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Wonderong if anyone has the size and length for new control cables, I am
away from swaloon but would like to replace my cables next week if possible

TIA!

PS see you at the west coast rendezvous

-Chris

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Sounds like the start button or perhaps neutral safety -did you jiggle the
shifter?



The stop knob wouldn't prevent the motor from turning over, but good on you
for honesty




On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:08 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
> experience.
>
> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
> real PITA to get to.
>
> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
> start.
>
> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

That fuse holder is especially syrange- starters are the exception to the
rule that all loads should have appropriate rated fuses or breakers

On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:36 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Had this happen to me.  Mine has an obscure fuse right side facing aft,
> near the starter.  My fuse holder had
> cracked and was intermittently permitting things to work perfectly or not
> at all.  Check that, and the ground
> as others have mentioned.
>
> --
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C&C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C.
>
> On 2022-07-07 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
> experience.
>
> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
> real PITA to get to.
>
> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
> start.
>
> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Sad Cetol story

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Imo with a Forstner bit the plugs come out easily and you don't have to do
any masking

This is a reminder that I need to measure for new covers to go on our
rails, thanks

On Sun, Jul 10, 2022, 8:13 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I gave up on mine and sealed with epoxy and painted them off white.
> Actually looks really nice.
>
> John McCrea
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 10, 2022, at 10:54 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > Drat.  It is with profound sadness that I announce a failure of the
> Cetol on one of Touche's handrails.  Sniff.   I noticed some moderate
> separation near one of the loop bases.  It had been 12-15 years since I
> applied that Cetol.
> >
> > I had diligently applied a maintenance coat of Cetol Gloss every six
> months until last year.  I had skipped a couple of the six months
> maintenance coats of gloss because I was rebuilding our flood damaged
> house.  Not sure if that was the cause or it would have happened anyway.
> >
> > The remaining pieces of teak; the taffrail, companionway trims and hatch
> boards continue to hold up well.  The cabin top cap rails have some small
> areas of separation on the underside but that's routine and due to the fact
> that they were not removed and stripped prior to Cetol application.
> Because of that, they're not completely encapsulated.  That is, the Cetol
> doesn't continue under the teak leaving a small gap where the cap rail
> meets the fiberglass.
> >
> > As for the handrails, I removed them, stripped them using a heat gun and
> painters knife, finish sanded them, removed surface oils with acetone and
> am now applying several coats of Cetol which will be followed by several
> coats of Cetol Gloss.  With the handrails removed, the Cetol will fully
> encapsulate the teak.
> >
> > My concern now is the color difference between the handrails and the cap
> rails.  Will it irritate me enough to strip the cap rails and re-apply
> Cetol?
> >
> > I really don't want to remove the cap rails.  They're fastened from
> above with plugs.  Adds another level of work.  Stripping them and running
> a bead of sealant down the teak/fiberglass interface is a compromise
> solution that will last for years.
> >
> > --
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
>

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: No recent mail - now alternator belt

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Why not just get a solar panel and some AGM batteries? Lithium requires new
charger, AGM profile for charging is often available on legacy chargers.

On Mon, Jul 25, 2022, 6:28 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> To add to my fun it was about sunset and my batteries are about shot. I
> had 16 miles to go and didn’t want run on battery power, so digging through
> my spare belts it turns out they were all too short ☹ I had to swap
> alternators back to the one that uses the shorter belts, so a 10 minute job
> became quite a bit longer.
>
> I think I need to quit researching lithium batteries for the 25th time
> and just pick one!
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>

Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

This is what I did. Sailrite had an excellent video

Sunbrella fabric and I think it is vinyl coated something

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JWJM6MvJ3J8XRpK37



On Tue, Jul 26, 2022, 8:22 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Has anyone figured out how to mount a flexible solar panel on the bimini
> top without the panel edges/corners chafing the sunbrella?
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy, C&C 33 mk II
> Lake of the Woods
>

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Checking breakers or fuses

Any connections made - any corrosion in there? Are you getting
(batteryV+)12v or only 10.2 indicating a possible short

Our water pump, which I believe was the original, just died last year and I
swapped it out. I wish I had done that sooner, the new pump is both quieter
and uses less aH



Swaloon 37/40+

On Mon, Aug 8, 2022, 7:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously today
> and not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when pressurized.  I
> confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the manifold that
> controls tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter after the
> manifold and before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the
> manifold/filter to the pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so
> nothing appears blocked.  When I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not
> feel any suction on the opening.  I presume these are self-priming pumps,
> so I should have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years old, so I am
> presuming it is just dead, but wondering if there is any other scenario
> that might make it not work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

The gray flexible freshwater lines we have in our boats are not supposed to
need Teflon tape.

In fact, Teflon tape is not for sealing. It is only to lubricate threads.

Threads do sealing in pipe (taper) thread forms, faces of components and
flared ends do sealing in the system we have.



On Fri, Aug 12, 2022, 12:56 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My new pump takes a few minutes to shut off once the level drops.  I think
> it is to push as much out of the hose.
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, August 12, 2022 3:37:09 PM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>
> I took the old one apart and have no idea how it works.  Certainly had no
> impeller so I am presuming diaphragm.  I have installed a newer model of
> the same Jabsco pump.  In their infinite wisdom, they changed the mounting
> bracket size slightly so only two of 4 holes lined up.  That is almost as
> annoying as Standard Horizon, who sets the standard for this by using a
> different and incompatible charging base with each model of VHF handheld
> radio.  Had to drill the other two which was remarkably awkward in the
> tight space.  Fortunately I have a very small portable drill which made it
> possible. When assembled, it definitely generated vacuum on the inlet
> unlike the other pump.  It seems to be generating water pressure now, but
> is not switching off when reaching cut off pressure.  I am guessing that
> there is an air leak in the inlet side as there is no water leaking
> anywhere I could find.  I did not have time to clean all the threaded PEX?
> fittings which were wrapped with teflon tape and looked pretty nasty.  I
> will take those apart and rewrap them and assemble and see if that fixes
> the problem when I get back to the job.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Aug 12, 2022, at 3:02 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Is it a diaphragm pump?  If so the diaphragm may be shot
>
> On Wed, Aug 10, 2022 at 10:46 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Try taking it apart and cleaning the vanes. Sometimes they get crud in
> there.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously today
> and not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when pressurized.  I
> confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the manifold that
> controls tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter after the
> manifold and before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the
> manifold/filter to the pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so
> nothing appears blocked.  When I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not
> feel any suction on the opening.  I presume these are self-priming pumps,
> so I should have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years old, so I am
> presuming it is just dead, but wondering if there is any other scenario
> that might make it not work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Water back flowing through the head - rebuild vs replace

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I just rebuilt one of these from a rebuild kit that was in a locker for 4
years on a dock in Coos Bay in the middle of a trip from Seattle to SF.

If you have the time and stomach, rebuild it. Don't leave any components
untouched.

If there is a black liner that looks broken inside the main pump housing,
use heavy chemicals and a wooden stick to break that down and flush it all
out. All of the plastic should be white. Use good lube when reinstalling
orings and seals. Be meticulous.

Your crew and your pride will ask you why you hadn't done it sooner.

Good luck





On Tue, Aug 30, 2022, 8:06 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Ditto Rob's comment.  I was a boat repair guy for 15 years.  If the issue
> is in the pump assembly, replace the entire pump assembly!  The assembly is
> usually only a few bucks more than the rebuild kit.  It was ALWAYS cheaper
> for my clients.  However, several still wanted me to put in a repair kit.
>
> Do the math.  0.5 hours for me to change a pump assembly.  1.0-1.5 hours
> to remove pump assembly, install rebuild kit, re-install rebuilt pump
> assembly.
>
> Then there's the possibility that the pump cylinder is scored, the
> non-replaceable valve sealing surfaces are scratched or gouged or some
> other issue with the thing that may cause the rebuild to fail.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> On Tue, Aug 30, 2022 at 8:02 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Rod
>> Had the same issue a few years back with my Jabsco marine toilet...went
>> to the Binnacle to get kit to repairthey talked me into a new pump
>> instead...almost the same price and a lot less work from taking the old one
>> apart, installing new parts and putting back together.
>> New pump very easy to install.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S
>>
>> On 2022-08-30 7:36 a.m., StrightR--- via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone experienced water back flowing through the head despite dry
>> bowl left in the closed position?  Raritan head. Assume it could be a
>> defective Joker valve or flapper valve.  Anyone had a similar problem and
>> if so what was the cure.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Rod
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: C&C 37+ PSS

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

We have a 1 1/4" shaft on Swaloon but you should definitely borrow some
calipers to confirm. They are definitely not interchangeable.

On Thu, Feb 9, 2023, 1:06 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rob,
>
> Have you contacted PYI to ask if they have that info on file?
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
>
> > On Feb 9, 2023, at 5:53 AM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> > Can anyone confirm the size of the shaft tube 37+?  I know the shaft is
> 1 1/8 .  Looking to replace this year.
> >
> > -Rob
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=05%7C01%7C%7C178dd11e9b9d448b9d3a08db0aa513e5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638115476344590490%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=RzK4JSE0ePM6eFMnrZmHQqkf4BZnSVg3I4V6X9GyIzI%3D&reserved=0
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Drop the rudder and inspect bearing surfaces.

Sure you tell the yard when you haul out that you want to drop the rudder
because often times they won't give you enough space to be able to get the
neck out of the boat and you don't want to have to pay to have them lift
you again to drop the rudder

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 10:23 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1980 34 C&C that has developed a profound tiller wobble while
> under power .  Has anyone else had this experience?  What is the remedy.
> I plan to haul out in June to inspect.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Force 10 Stove

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Just swapped an older force10 for a newer one in our 37/40+

I found out the tightest measurement most have is the companionway - check
that in addition to the hole the stove needs to go into

Best of luck

On Thu, Jun 15, 2023, 6:15 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does the standard American size Force 10 3-burner stove fit the C&C 35 MK
> I?
>
> I would assume it does, but want to check.
>
> I am thinking of going from CNG to propane, CNG is very hard to source now
> in most places.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *DCSI*
>
> *410-966-7255*
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I'd highly recommend trying to leave the new hose either out in the sun or
use a heat gun to get it as playable as you can without exceeding the rated
temperature

You can use soap and water on the exterior but doesn't usually help as much
and contra to what the heat will help with.

Same goes with the heat on the old one that probably has a whole lot of
memory of its current location/route


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023, 8:27 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and
> have sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the
> local Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be
> attempted tomorrow, so no time for shipping.
>
>
>
> Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end
> as a backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall
> people using a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on
> the other end to pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two
> hoses / coupler with duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board]
> to hopefully secure it.  There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has
> been Shanghaied into helping, and will have handy what is called the
> “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list.
>
>
>
> I will post how it goes….
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Jonathan Tebbens 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement
>
>
>
> Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis
> notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through
> everything.
>
> Jon Tebbens
>
> 78 Mega
>
> Katherine
>
>
>
> On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes
> loose, you're cooked.
>
>
>
> Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.
>
>
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
>
>
> Here's one for $1
>
>
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
>
>
> --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry
> and wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.
> [I found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the
> culprit – if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes
> through a ¾” (?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into
> a space which is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up
> through a 1” plywood and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the
> hull, then through another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck.
>
>
>
> The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
> holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
> the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
> ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
> icebox with the old hose in place.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to
> go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to
> hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
> inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.
>
>
>
> Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it
> [am not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings
> through small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well]
> to pull new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be
> punched in the new hose to have good material all around.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> Brian
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me p

Stus-List Re: Dead Battery Charger

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

We have 2 4D house batteries mounted directly forward of the galley sink in
the settee and our inverter charger is in the locker behind the stbd seat
back.

Our start battery is located under the aft berth

This on a c&c 37/40+

On Mon, Jun 26, 2023, 8:01 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Just went through this on my new boat.
> While it really depends on how you intend use the boat,  I would consider
> an inverter/charger and provide for an eventual upgrade to group 31 lithium
> batteries and a dedicated AGM start battery.
> I chose the Victron Multiplus 12/1600/70
>
> Dave
> 33-2 Windstar
> Alubat OVNI 435
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 26, 2023, at 10:23 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Hello gang...
>
> My battery charger died this weekend.  Its demise was swift, but provides
> an opportunity.  It was a ProMariner Sport 20amp, and apparently did a good
> job.  But...since I am not an expert in this field...and need to part with
> boat bucks anyway, do you guys have better ideas?
>
> I have two new group 27 combo batteries. No room for a third on my C$C
> 37/40+.  What setups do you guys have?  Thanks.
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
>
> 517 490-5926 Cell
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Engine strangeness

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Any place you haven't checked is ripe for problems.

Any assumptions you make now will seem more obvious in the future.

The simple fact that one thing keeps happening: your engine is cutting out

So you trace back from there, what does the engine need to run? Well it
turns out that most sailboat diesels only need an adequate and precise fuel
delivery.

Some have turbos, some have electronic injection systems.

Most just have a diesel tank that is approaching 30-50+ years old,  along
with mixed components from similar vintages.








On Tue, Jun 27, 2023, 10:23 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a fuel pressure gauge that has proven enormously useful.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 27, 2023 1:02 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
>
>
>
> Dave,
>
>
>
> Start with the fuel tank.  Look for crud in the tank and in the screen for
> the fuel pick up.  Check every hose clamp in the system. Be sure the
> overflow outlet is not plugged.  Be sure top of Racor is seated properly
> and vacuum gauge is tight.  Change the filters just for peace of mind.
>
>
>
> Two stories - Racing on a friend's boat.  One the way to the start, engine
> stalled.  EVERY hose clamp on the fuel system was loose.  Tightened, bled
> and made the start.
>
> My genset would start and die. Followed my advice..  Found loose hose
> barb, bad hose, bad clamp, then finally found the problem - the bleed screw
> was the loose.
>
>
>
> Good luck!
>
> Joel
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Virus-free.www.avg.com
> 
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 27, 2023 at 12:46 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> So I am back to my engine problem hoping someone can help clarify things.
> I have had the engine quit several more times, but with no consistency as
> to when or why it happens. We were on a cruise recently and used it often
> and for long periods going in and out of harbors.  Mostly it worked fine
> but had it stall several times: start and run for a few minutes, then
> stall, restart then stall, restart then stall, then run fine for 20 min or
> more.  This happened in two separate situations a few days apart but no
> stall several other times.  In all cases, it has eventually restarted and
> ran for extended periods.  These intermittent problems are the hardest to
> diagnose in my experience.  This seems most likely to be a fuel related
> issue so now I am trying to fully understand the fuel system.
>
>
>
> I installed a Racor 500 unit last summer with a T-handle vacuum gauge on
> top.  Fuel goes from the tank, through the shutoff lever to the Racor, then
> to the fuel pump, then to the secondary and on to the engine.  If I
> understand this correctly, the gauge on the Racor unit will measure
> restriction in the fuel flow upstream of the gauge, ie the primary (30 µm
> in my case). I know the gauge works because if you partially shut off
> the fuel lever, you see the gauge gradually increase in vacuum reading.
> But it seems that it will not tell you if the secondary is plugged.
>
>
>
> 1. I don’t see how the secondary (10 µm in my case) could be plugged if
> the primary is fine but I guess not impossible.   My temptation is to
> replace the secondary since the primary is not showing any sign of being
> plugged (from the gauge), but I don’t see how this could lead to an
> infrequent intermittent stall.
>
> 2.  Fuel pump problem (loose wire etc.)?  You can hear the fuel pump
> running when the engine is off and I have never heard it stop or pause.
> Can fuel pumps fail like this?  Can that lead to an intermittent stall?
>
> 3.  Air getting into fuel line- seems possible, but I don’t see how that
> can be the cause if the engine runs for an hour continuously once restarted.
>
>
>
> Any ideas welcome!  Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C&C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 37+ Steering Cable

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Jenna found our steering cable only attached by one bunch of the
(?11)-strand cable a few years ago while I was seining in AK.

She and friends reswaged a new piece of cable to our old chain and I have
kept an eye on it since, periodically lubing.

I find the grease port in the rudder post is not enough when driving hard
downwind for many miles, we often get a squeak that starts near/just under
the quadrant

Shift and throttle cables are a must-do, in my opinion, if they haven't
been done on a boat of our vintage.







On Wed, Aug 2, 2023, 5:31 AM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks Josh glad I’m waiting till off season,  recall any part number from
> Edson..sounds like some fabrication in order as well.
>
> -Rob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 2, 2023, at 3:04 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
>  You're in for a treat!  This might help.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/115qLR3c13N2THCRpsOF-7UGGJBweFXfd/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Edson made the plate to which the turning sheeves are attached out of
> carbon steel.  They never expected the OEMs to install them in a wet or
> exposed location.  The sheeves are attached with 3/4 inch diameter sleeves
> that have been hydraulically pressed to full over top and bottom rim.  This
> makes a type of "pass through rivet".  The hole in the center of the
> "rivet" is where the cable passes.  The rivet clamps the bronze sheeve body
> to the plate.  The body uses the rivet as a pivot and has bolts to hold it
> in position as needed to fairlead the cable back to the quadrant.  The
> sheeve are bronze as well and they pivot on a stainless pin.  Edson
> reengineered this plate and used both aluminum and bronze.  Sounds like and
> upgrade right?  Well it would be if it would fit our boats but it won't.
> Besides the thickness of the new plate being the main problem the sheeve
> can not articulate close enough together to allow the cables to lead
> properly.  So it would be nice if edson just stuck with a carbon steel
> version as well but they didn't.  When I replaced mine I learned all of the
> aforementioned details over multiple weeks and phone calls and shipping
> returns.  Ultimately the associate I was working with was able to paw
> around in the warehouse and found what he thought might very well be the
> last carbon steel plate in existence.  They re-rivetted my sheeves to the
> new plate.  It was the only option.  If you're in fresh water I've heard
> the damage is considerably less but if you're in salt water you may find
> yourself with a bigger than expected project.
> 
>
>
> The cable replacement is actually pretty straight forward as long as you
> figure out a way to attach the new cable to the old and the the old to lead
> the new through the sheeves and pedestal.  If anything comes undone you may
> have to unmount the pedestal.  The cable can be bought from edson or
> manufactured by reusing the chain and reswaging new cable.  Its more
> expensive to use but only $30 or $40 bucks more.  Using theirs ensures that
> you get new chain.  You'd also be able to leave the olds cable in place and
> use it to lead the new as described above.  New from edson is my vote.
> They come in different lengths and our boats use one of if not the longest
> available.  You can narrow it down to the available options by measuring
> from the pedestal hub to the deck and add the distance from the pedestal
> base to the quadrant.  Then add half the circumstance too.  As I recall the
> cable wraps  halfway around but maybe its a full 360°. Double check when
> your measuring and adjust the math as needed.
>
> If you are taking time to rebuilt the pedestal reach back out and let me
> know.  There are some tricks.  I had mine completely sand blasted and
> repainted.  All the internals were completely rebuilt.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> Aug 1, 2023 15:55:33 Rob Hamlin via CnC-List :
>
> Thinking about my my off season punch list.
>
> Steering system is next up, after motor mounts and running gear last year.
>
> Any idea on cable and idlers required?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 37+ Steering Cable

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

No conduit on Swaloon #86

On Fri, Aug 4, 2023, 5:33 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mine did not have conduits either, and it was one of the last 37/40+s
> built.  Hull #89, I think.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
>
> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023, 11:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> 37+ doesn't have conduits.  Well mine didn't
>>
>> Aug 3, 2023 19:20:04 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List :
>>
>> I'm replacing the cables on my Edson Steering. The chain is in excellent
>> condition. But the cables and the conduit showed signs of wear. I can't
>> inspect the cables, and once pulled out of the conduit they won't go back
>> in if there is any bend to the cable.
>> I used 1\4 SS 304 7x19 cable, 4 aluminum crimp ferrels and 2 1\4 inch
>> thimbles. All sourced from Tacoma Screw. Total cost was less than $100. The
>> new conduits from Edison was a different story. $$$.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Douglas Mountjoy
>> 1988 C&C LF 39
>> Mexico at large
>> 1984 Sabre 34
>> Port Orchard, WA
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023, 12:46 Peter Fell via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I noticed when visiting a local (Victoria BC) used and consignment shop
>>> that they had an Edson cable / chain kit on the shelf. Other than a quick
>>> look I didn't pay too much attention (obviously cable diameter was too
>>> large for my 27) but if you are interested I could explore further.
>>>
>>> Peter
>>>
>>> On Tue., Aug. 1, 2023, 12:55 p.m. Rob Hamlin via CnC-List, <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Thinking about my my off season punch list.

 Steering system is next up, after motor mounts and running gear last
 year.

 Any idea on cable and idlers required?

 Thanks
 Rob

 Sent from my iPhone
 Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site
 and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 Thanks for your help.
 Stu

>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks for your help.
>>> Stu
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK 1 bow water tank

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

We have a tank in the bow of our 37+. Not looking forward to replacing that
one 😆

On Tue, Oct 10, 2023, 7:39 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anyone else have a water tank in the bow?
>
> Mine is leaking, the bolts through the side of it leak and the wood that
> holds the internal baffle that the bolts are there for is coming apart.
>
> Now I need to get the 120 or so bolts off the top to fix it.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shaft-collars/

They're called shaft collars

On Sat, Dec 9, 2023, 10:03 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Or drill and tap the same collar, rotating the holes?
> Or re-drill  the same holes and tap and use a larger screw?
> Dave ex-33-2 windstar
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 9, 2023, at 12:56 PM, David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Richard…I am sure a competent machine shop can replicate?
>
>
>
> *From:* Matthew Wolford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 9, 2023 9:52 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* virb...@cogeco.ca; Matthew Wolford 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly
>
>
>
> I suggest starting there.  If Rob doesn’t have one, he may be able to
> suggest an alternate source.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Dec 9, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Barry McKee via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Yes they are.
>
>
>
> Barry McKee
>
>
>
> C&C 29 “Discovery II”
>
> Bronte, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* Matthew Wolford via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> ]
> *Sent:* 9-Dec-23 8:24 AM
> *To:* Richard Bush
> *Cc:* Stus-List; Matthew Wolford
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly
>
>
>
> Is South Shore Yachts still in business?
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 8, 2023, at 3:00 PM, Richard Bush  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is  a
> chrome "collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder
> post which is also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder
> post and sits on a delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are
> two set screws in the collar to keep it tight n the rudder post.  The
> rudder pivots on this assembly when steering the boat.
>
>
>
> In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar to
> loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the
> threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop.  The fix is to get a new
> collar, which I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no
> markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos.
>
>
>
> For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining
> threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confident
> that this will work until I can identify and order the new collar.
>
>
>
> So it seems I have been lucky and my situation fits under Mike Hoyt's
> "good case" scenario rather than the whole assembly failing, which is the
> "bad case" scenario.   I feel a lot better than I did 24 hours ago, but
> will report back on progress.  I would have thought the C&C used the same
> assembly for all of the rudders regardless of the model of the boat, but
> maybe not...;
>
>
>
> If anyone ha any experience or suggestions in locating the "collar, please
> send them on...Thank you to everyone!
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
>
> (502) 584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 03:37:58 PM EST, Bill Coleman via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come
> off and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are
> going to have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Erie PA
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 3:15 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder
> issue; my boat (1985 C&C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early
> September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past
> week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how
> this happened; the hull  has been painted and the painters said they moved
> the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone
> have any ideas or suggests about what could have occurred? and more
> importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable?
>
>
>
>
>
> We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to
> provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks!
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River...
>
>
>
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
>
> (502) 584-7255
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.