Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil
Transfer the stuff to more solid containers! On Monday, February 23, 2015 9:11 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote: Hi Ron, Are you talking about the original event or spill containment?:) Good question really, there was only one bottle but... Cheers,Russ Sweetmk-1 At 01:02 PM 23/02/2015, you wrote: Wally, You may want to wrap them individually in plastic grocery bags and ducttape. At least if they crack they'd be contained. Like a UST, need secondary containment! Ron Wild Cheri C&C 30-1 STL On Mon, 2/23/15, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote: Subject: Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil To: "Russ & Melody" ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Monday, February 23, 2015, 9:51 AM Russ wrote: > This helpful hint from the Medical Officer, Amazing Grace crew in > response to the forward I sent out. Thanks Russ - Down here in Mexico they don't have that, but they do have something called Benzal that is the same thing. That's good for a giggle. One must be careful, though, as there are two kinds of Benzal. One's a lubricant, the other is for yeast infections. If you don't know your Spanish, it's easy to get them mixed up. In the end it took an entire bottle of dish soap to emulsify the stuff. I feel like writing them a letter and showing them a picture of the cracked plastic bottle. All I did was pick it up and the plastic cracked. Grr. Joe - I put a capful in the gas for my outboard, as well as in the Honda 2000. You can also put it in diesel and crankcase oil, but I don't. Wal -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to thebottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)
Use croakies! On Sunday, December 21, 2014 1:22 AM, Ed Dooley via CnC-List wrote: Re: Dribble (losing glasses)Misplacing your glasses and dropping them overboard are 2 very different things. :-) Ed From: Marek Dziedzic Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 14:20:28 -0500 To: 'Ed Dooley' , Subject: RE: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses) Does it work under water? (;-) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2014 9:26 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses) You obviously need these Chuck: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/glasses-trackr-locate-sunglasses-and-eyeglasses-using-your-smartphone http://nocamels.com/2014/09/cant-find-your-glasses-look-is-the-smart-tracking-device-that-will/ And so do I. Ed From: Chuck S Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 05:41:58 + (UTC) To: Marek Dziedzic , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses) Totally relate. I'm 60 and near sighted. But I have to take my "distance only" glasses off to see close up. This works great for computer work, or print reading. I work as an HVAC Mechanic at a school and often loose the glasses at the end of the day. I usually find them above the ceiling tile or on a roll of prints. Today I hooked them in the neck of my uniform shirt, (no pocket) and they fell down inside the shirt to my waist. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel? On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote: - Forwarded Message - Alright, the saga continues. We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, filters changed, clamps tightened. The engine ran great all the way to Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved. On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall. We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the mooring without incident. So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours running time. I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I think it came with the rebuild kit. My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys think I should maybe try another path forward. Danny P.S. Cuttyhunk was Amazing! Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 guide is very useful. Brian s/v Rekofa The Blue Whale 1979 C&C 34 Baltimore, MD Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" wrote: Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump ought to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I would drain or remove the trap and try it. Try a new P-trap designed for the purpose. Might want to check the operation of your fuel pump. > >I just put my boat in the water for the first time and had a similar issue. 5 >minutes and then stall. Starts back up after a short wait but won’t run for >longer than about five minutes. Sort of ran if fully choked. Turned out to be >a broken electrical feed to my electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long it >ran without a fuel pump! I guess gravity and vacuum will do part of the job, >even through two filters. > >Skip > >From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny >Haughey via CnC-List >Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 5:38 PM >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! > > > > > Original message >From: Danny Haughey >Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) >To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca >Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! > > >Okay so no wind today... > >I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and fuel, loaded up and away we >went. Motor was running great! Fired up left dock, motored away. After >about an hour she seemed to be running out of gas. Stutter ed and stalled. >Five minutes later, after seeing sail, she started right back up. We sail >back to our home mooring. I pull the filter on the sepertator, looked clean >as the day I put it in. Then I thought, maybe the vent is plugged... well, >it wasn't plugged but it is routed with a trap and that trap was filled with >fuel. Would this have been enough to starve the engine? > >Danny > > >From my Android phone ___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > >Email address: >CnC-List@cnc-list.com >To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page >at: >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/c
Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove
How is methyl hydrate different? On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 11:04:41 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: My experience is that 95.6% is the most what you can obtain commercially (or from any kind of distillation). You can get further only with molecular sieves or by removing the remaining water using benzene or some other substances. The best (for drinking, if you are so inclined) is this one: http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sakemitsui/item/vod-0007/ (btw. the web page says incorrectly 96 degrees, it is 96%). In Canada, you can get it in Quebec as Global Alcool, but it is “only” 94%. However, I would not use it in a stove, as it would not be overly cost effective. It has great applications for mixing drinks, though. Marek From: dwight Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:06 AM To: 'Marek Dziedzic' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: RE: Stus-List Alcohol stove Here is an article on ethanol versus methanol as a fuel. This article concludes that ethanol is the more efficient fuel. http://vincent02pd2011.wikispaces.com/Methanol+Vs+Ethanol+Fuel+Lab and this article says that ethanol produces a higher flame temperature. http://classroom.synonym.com/burns-hotter-ethanol-methanol-7848.html Ethanol is hygroscopic and will absorb up to 5% moisture from the atmosphere. It is difficult to obtain and store 100% pure ethanol. Many chemicals can be used to “denature” ethanol, like methanol, acetone, benzene, isobutyl ketone and most of these chemicals will make the denatured ethanol poisonous , bad tasting, bad smelling or nauseating in order to discourage human consumption Dwight Veinot C&C 35MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Sent: August 12, 2014 9:12 AM To: Stevan Plavsa ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove Steve, try other marine stores. In Ottawa , The Chandlery, sells Capt. Phab 4l for $21.50 (or $20 US) (http://www.thechandleryonline.com/product_info.php?products_id=3331). I think they would ship it, unless there is some funny restriction. They ship to the US , as well. Marine Outfitters out of Kingston carry it, too. Btw. this is what I use in my stove and it burns extremely clean. Marek From:Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent:Monday, August 11, 2014 10:36 PM To:Rick Brass ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject:Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove I found it hard to source denatured alcohol here in Toronto . I found it at this place finally: http://www.sculpturesupply.com/index.php I paid something less than $25 for a 4 litre jug. Much better deal than the stuff they sell at west marine. Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: Denatured alcohol is all I've ever used in the stove on the 38 or the Origo stove on the 25. About once a year I go to Lowes and buy a gallon can. And one of these days I'll finally get around to installing the new propane stove I bought for the 38 a couple of years ago. I'm told it is easier to find propane than denatured alcohol when you are in the Bahamas or the Caribbean . Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Aug 11, 2014, at 10:36, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote: This my first go-around with alcohol stoves. Seems to work very nicely. Cleaned it up filled it and brewed a big pot of coffee in no time. Is there any reason not to use plain old denatured alcohol instead of stove cooking fuel? > >Skip > ___ > >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > >Email address: >CnC-List@cnc-list.com >To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/8000 - Release Date: 08/07/14 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com__
Re: Stus-List Alternator or belt?
One person with a lever can do it. Changing belts every year or two is best policy. On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 3:33:13 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List wrote: So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten? Or do I have to replace it? It has squealed from time to time and I can push it in maybe 1/2". Is replacement a two person job? Barbara H. Fellers ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin
- This mail is in HTML. Some elements may be ommited in plain text. - I hope you get this on time, I made a trip to Kiev, Ukraine and had my bag stolen from me with my passport and personal effects therein. The embassy has just issued me a temporary passport but I have to pay for a ticket and settle my hotel bills with the Manager.I have made contact with my bank but it would take me 3-5 working days to access funds in my account, the bad news is my flight will be leaving very soon but i am having problems settling the hotel bills and the hotel manager won't let me leave until i settle the bills, I need your help/LOAN financially and i promise to make the refund once i get back home, you are my last resort and hope, Please let me know if i can count on you and i need you to keep checking your email because it's the only way i can reach you. Thanks, John --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Edson Wheel brake.
Anyone have a used one for sale? C&C 27 Mk III. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Why via? - yahoo breaks email lists
I had problems with gmail so I switched back to yahoo. Would prefer to stay there. From: Bill Bina via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 11:22:29 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Why via? - yahoo breaks email lists I think it would be reasonable to ban yahoo email accounts from the list. This is not the first time yahoo has done something to break everybody else's lists. I'm using an sbcglobal email address, which is operated through yahoo. I would have no real problem getting a gmail account and re-subscribing if that would help Stu and make the list more stable. Here is an article with some background on the issue: http://tech-beta.slashdot.org/story/14/04/09/2047205/yahoo-dmarc-implementation-breaks-most-mailing-lists Bill Bina On 5/16/2014 11:07 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Steve You are Special. Mike From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 12:03 PM To: Stews List Subject: Re: Stus-List Why via? I don't use Yahoo. My ISP is sympatico, which uses the Microsoft Hotmail (live.com) server. I see everyone else's names, is it just mine that appears this way? Is there something I can do to fix this? Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck
You can also use a bit of cotton rope as a siphon, removing it while under way of course. Almost like a baggywrinkle. From: via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:52:12 PM Subject: Stus-List Standing water on deck Hi all, I just recently bought a C&C 33 Mk II and have noticed that I have standing water around the aft part of the toerail for several days after a rainfall. I was thinking of putting a notch in the toerail to help it drain (at least most of it) or perhaps a little 90 degree scupper from the deck to the hull. Or am i better off just to leave well enough alone? Thanks, Mike Atacama, Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List POLITICAL RANTS ARE INAPPROPRIATE ON THIS LIST
Enough, already. It was a screw up. On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 2:30:29 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote: The political email was sent to the list by error and the sender has apologized. No more emails are necessary. Stu ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List List Problems
Stu, I'm good now. Thanks for all you do for us. From: Stu via CnC-List To: C&C Email List Sent: Thursday, May 1, 2014 3:53:03 PM Subject: Stus-List List Problems Yesterday, approximately 125 members received notices saying their subscriptions had been cancelled due to excessive or fatal bounces. Unfortunately, I was in the hospital having cataract surgery and trying to read the messages and reply to them was very difficult – I was blind in one eye and could not see out the other one. At least today, one eye is working. Yesterday’s problems were not with the list but with the ISP’s involved. It is mainly a Yahoo problem (right now) but includes: comcast, hotmail, AOL, Ameritech, Sympatico, Rogers, Bell, Reinardy, Live, Wbryant, Outlook, MSN, SBCGlobal, Acesdirect, Netscape, SNet, ATT and probably a bunch of others. I am in the process of resetting everyone’s subscriptions so that they receive mail and am working with our List Hosting Company to overcome these problems. In order to get around Yahoo’s problem, you will notice the “From” box on your emails, says “via CnC-List” instead of the sender’s name. SO PLEASE, SIGN YOUR EMAILS If you find you get bumped again, it is suggested that you get a freebie email address from a company that is not listed above and use it strictly for emails from the list. I will try to keep on top of this problem and advise you accordingly. Stu ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Your membership in the mailing list CnC-List has been disabled
I got a similar one yesterday. Re-signed and changed my password. From: Frank via CnC-List To: List Stus Sent: Thursday, May 1, 2014 9:57:36 AM Subject: Stus-List Your membership in the mailing list CnC-List has been disabled I got this today, is it real? I don't recognize the password. Frank S/V Cool Change -Original Message- From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 11:17 AM To: n...@comcast.net Subject: confirm 591c5f55764b22dbe12cbb2ddc374b295a239586 Your membership in the mailing list CnC-List has been disabled due to excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated 30-Apr-2014. You will not get any more messages from this list until you re-enable your membership. You will receive 2 more reminders like this before your membership in the list is deleted. To re-enable your membership, you can simply respond to this message (leaving the Subject: line intact), or visit the confirmation page at http://cnc-list.com/mailman/confirm/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/591c5f55764b22dbe12cbb2ddc374b295a239586 You can also visit your membership page at http://cnc-list.com/mailman/options/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/n7fn%40comcast.net On your membership page, you can change various delivery options such as your email address and whether you get digests or not. As a reminder, your membership password is (Password not included in forwarded message) If you have any questions or problems, you can contact the list owner at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List List Problems (now what email to use)
I don't have any problem accessing or posting on the list with Yahoo, but my Yahoo goes through google first. For how long, I can only guess as I'm still on XP. From: Marek Dziedzic To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, April 11, 2014 3:04:48 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List List Problems (now what email to use) take it for whatever it is worth... Hotmail (actually Outlook; only the domain name was retained from the old MS free email system) might be the easiest to work with. in the past it was known for providing an easy access to all kinds of spammers, so it has a bad reputation. But it has been reworked quite a bit and offers decent service and quite good web interface. If you are, by any chance an Internet Explorer user, it has really good integration. You can easily define filters, so e.g. all emails from C&C list can be put into a separate folder. Gmail - very popular lately; quite transparent (they don't filter much, so the chances are that they won't mistakenly filter some important message). I don't like their web client (but this is very personal). It does not integrate as well as Hotmail with e.g. Windows Live Mail, especially, if you normally access email from multiple computers (this includes tablets and phones). Hotmail/Outlook synchronises all folders perfectly; Gmail requires some careful planning and configuration. Your ISP e-mail - usually the worse of them all (e.g. many ISPs include spam filters that have many false positives and filter out messages that are quite legitimate (e.g. my provider filters out CRA (Canadian equivalent of IRS) e-mails; this is not good, for example, if the email was a reminder of a filing deadline); other examples include filtering out emails for change of password requests). the web client and integration with your desktop client vary by provider. Having said all this, an email account from your provider might be the easiest fix for the Yahoo issues. These emails are quite disposable, so you can set up an account and if it is no longer required, drop it. Marek -Original Message- From: Wally Bryant Sent: Friday, April 11, 2014 2:26 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List List Problems Bummer. A friend of mine (and of my family) is actually the guy who invented Yahoo email, so I've been there for nearly 20 years. The company was originally called RocketMail.com, and he sold it to Yahoo and now lives on his own private island and is totally diversified and not involved with operations. I use them for web hosting and email, but do pay an extremely low fee for my own domain name, which seems to avoid a lot of problems. Hotmail is owned by Microsoft. BellSouth is, well, the phone company. Gmail seems to be a preferred 'free' email source these days, but I'm sure in a few years they'll get stuck in the mud. Wal Stu wrote: > Yahoo initiated a terrible policy change to their mail servers recently > that impacts every single mailing list software in use. If any Yahoo.com > user posts to your list, they will cause those list members are using > Hotmail, Gmail, Bellsouth, etc to bounce the poster's message which can in > turn cause the list to remove these members from the list for excessive > bounces. The problem is with Yahoo. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
Jig-a-Loo is similar to McLube and less than half the price. From: Paul Fountain To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:17:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII Terry, I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the slides. A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to the top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry pearson Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your mast groove look like? Thanks, Terry On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight wrote: > Rick > > I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of > the top without a winch or strong track. My main sail is equipped > with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" > thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack > in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium > track. I also have to deal with the added friction involved with > leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit. I can > raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else > pulls the halyard where it exits the mast. I cleaned and sanded the > track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years > back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides. The sail does not > fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the > halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it > aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with > all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy > jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my > mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the same way every time. Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age. > > -Original Message- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of > Rick Brass > Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII > > Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and > make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. > > If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could > have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will > get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my > 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a > winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine. > Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water. > > Rick Brass > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson wrote: >> >> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or >> similar)slide in > the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the > original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything > telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to > accommodate either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I > tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? >> >> Thanks, >> Confused:=) >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
Tip. Replace the impeller fasteners with screws which take a hex key. Much easier to work with. From: dwight To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:21:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller David Hardest part is getting the cover off the pump; the nuts on those bolts are hard to get at and you may have to use a knife edge to pry the cover free. I haven’t changed an impellor in 5 or maybe 6 years but I carry spares. I winterize my raw water system with 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix after haul out in fall and so during storage my impellor is always surrounded by that mix. When I winterize I disconnect the hose to the raw water thru hull at the pump end (not the thru hull end) and connect another length of similar sized hose to the pump which I use for winterizing and which after winterizing is complete gets suspended above the engine full to almost the top with the 50/50 mix. Come spring (soon I hope) I simply put that hose in a bucket of fresh water that is continuously supplied while I start up and run the engine on the hard and then before launch I remove that hose and reattach the hose to the raw water thru hull…easy and works great for me…I think it has been proven unnecessary to replace that impellor every year…consider how long they last in outboard motors…in my view a new one may be just as likely to fail because of faulty construction, I intend to go another year on the one I have installed now…carrying the riaght spares and tools is more important in my opinion because this job is not that hard to do at sea…that said I probably will change someday soon…hard to decide when to fix something that ain’t broke From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht Sent: March 23, 2014 12:40 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30. This is the first time I have had the water pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed. I will certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to start the process. I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some time, so that should take care of the periodic starts with the intake closed. I will have a try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but I suspect it is not going to come that way and I am worried about Dwight’s comment. I will see if the yard will loan me a puller for this time. I don’t want to spend $50-100 on a puller which should be needed only this time when I am not convinced any of them will grab my impeller. Dave On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S wrote: David, Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight? Many 34plusses were built w Yanmar. Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years: I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the engine in Spring. I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the housing hang by the hoses. I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction of rotation. I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning it slightly in the normal direction of rotation. You can wrap a rag around it to protect your hands. If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed pliers and gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and pull. I close the housing for winter storage. Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years in my spare parts tupperware container. Before assembly, I open the pump housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine. Vaseline is a little messier. This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the intake valve before starting the engine. Chuck From: "David Knecht" To: "CnC CnC discussion list" Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it. I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything. The arms on the one I bought are quite thick. Do I need a different tool? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com David
Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car
Not in the Garhauer set up. I find under load adjustment requires a bit of crew assistance, though. Maybe I'll try heavier shock cord. From: Tom B To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 1:14:18 PM Subject: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car Adjustable cars seem like a great deal. Some installs show a bungie attached to the aft shackle on the car to pull it aft and counteract the sheet pull. Does this result in losing the use of some of the aft track section? Tom Buscaglia A/ V Alera C&C 37+/40 Vashon WA > -- > > Message: 8 > Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 09:28:38 -0500 > From: Stephen Thorne > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" > Subject: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car > Message-ID: <98d8ec19-e3f1-4401-9e55-02dc7f06b...@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > I also recently ordered the Garhauer lead cars this past fall. Haven't yet > installed but looking forward to incorporating into headsail trimming for the > spring season. > > Steve > C&C 34+ > Deja Vu > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List friggin COLD
My recipe is hot consomme laced with sherry and lemon. Fantastic recuperative drink when cold. From: Steve Thomas To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 2:00:41 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List friggin COLD I make a Thermos of hot tea when single handing in cold weather. It is amazing the restorative power that a few ounces of a hot drink can have. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Andrew Burton Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2014 1:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List friggin COLD A pot of stew or chilli festering on the stove is a wonderful thing to warm up the cabin on a cold day. And it smells wonderful, too. If you haven't seen it, pick up a copy of Herreshoff's Complete Cruiser for some terrific tips on and descriptions of cruising in small boats. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Wed, Jan 8, 2014 at 1:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic wrote: talking seriously for a change, hot chicken soup goes a long way in keeping you warm (and happy) and can be consumed with one hand (from a mug), so you don’t need to leave the wheel (or anything else you are doing). > >Marek >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Scouting report on old C&C 38s
Check on Garhauer. Great stuff at reasonable prices. I have a rigid vang from them and also the moveable genoa cars. Went Harken for my traveller, though. C&C 27-III Firefly. From: Ron Casciato To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2014 3:22:03 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Scouting report on old C&C 38s HI Jim: Congratulationsnow the fun starts. I have a couple of thoughts about your new purchase of a 1977 C&C 38MKII. First, do you know the hull HIN number, located at the upper right of the transom? I own Hull# 125, a 1977 C&C 38MKIIC. I’ve owned my boat for over 15 years and we sail it regularly on Wednesday PHRF racing in the B fleet. Mine rates 129 Racing and 132 Cruising……complicated by the rating allowances I take on the set up of sails, furler and the no pole option in NE. We sail consistently in the top 3 boats of the local B fleet and as other have mentioned, you do get aggravated up against a stripped out Pearson flyer carrying the same rating and 8,000 pounds less for weight. But for the boat, I agree with comments on great looks, great stability (feels like your driving a truck) and comments about solid construction. My storage yard constantly is amazed at how sturdy the boat is during transport, etc. while others creak and groan and need to be handled just so. There’s way more room that you will use, and with a few modifications, she is absolutely comfortable in all conditions. A few things’ I would suggest you explore early in the relationship, most aimed at making your mate feel more comfortable handling the boat.: First, For sail handling, I would explore a modification to the mast slot/track. Tides Marine of Florida produces a Delrin insert into your mast slot that converts the job of raising and lowering the main easy for any first mate. The modification is easy and can be done by yourself in an afternoon. While they tell me that you can make the modification while the mast is up, mine was down and I liked the ease of handling everything at waist level, etc. Link: https://www.tidesmarine.com/ click on sail track and check the video. Second, as commented, the windows (ports) on a vintage C&C don’t open and are prone to leakage on occasion and are a regular topic on this discussion list for replacing gaskets, etc. . I found that Lewmar makes an excellent opening port light that is within a ¼” of the overall dimensions of the 38 window openings……I replaced the 4 windows in the main cabin and the single window in the head early on and have enjoyed a free flow of air and dry cabin since. There are several other nice modifications you could make, but those two are the most important in my opinion, do first. No hassle sail raising and lowering and being able to air out the cabin are very high on my satisfaction list. If your interested, I could send you a few pictures to see the results. Another NBN², (nice but not necessary) was the replacement of the wooden handrails with a set of stainless ones for the cabin top. I prefer to do less teak maintenance every year and the handrails are another topic of discussion……….Tops in Quality made mine for the right price………..but I’m not sure they still exist. Lastly, get to know the Garhauer products.price and performance clearly separate them for your use. Rigid boom vang, adjustable genoa track cars, traveller parts, etc. Enjoy the boat, you’ll not be disappointed and don’t concerned about the downwind stuff………..it’s the upwind stuff that you’ll be raving about very soon……… And to mimic the C&C 38 MKI “Zealot”, she is the prettiest boat in the line.OK, OK, it wasn’t me, Rick started it. Good Luck, Ron Casciato Impromptu C&C 38MKIIC….’77 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL
I got some from Princess Auto. Direct fit. Reasonable. From: Alex Giannelia To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 12:27:10 PM Subject: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL I am now moving into replacing my incandescent bulbs all around with LED's so is there an economical set of conversion bulbs which use the bases that will fit the old 12VDC sockets? I read some cases require compliance with USCG or TRANSPORT CANADA codes. Alex Giannelia CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch TORONTO, Ontario ag@@airsensing.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Binoculars
I have an interesting binocular story. In the eighties the Russians were very short of foreign curremcy (remember the Lada?). Honest Ed's,a discount store in Toronto managed to pick up surplus Russian Navy binoculars which they sold cheaply, $29.00 id I remember correctly. I got a set of 10X50 ones which are still serviceable. A little too powerful, but useable. A From: Don Harben To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Thursday, December 5, 2013 6:47:32 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Binoculars .. "After the third pair in two years fogged up internally I gave up and bought the Nikons. We had a lot of WM binoculars returned because they leaked, so I should have known better." Don C&C 29 mk1 Life www.ncyc.ca ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Firefly (27 Mk III) did much better this year going to a new North 145%. Better point, better boat speed than with the older #1. From: "Hoyt, Mike" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 8:44:08 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck Dwight We won our class in Chester this year. We also sailed a lot faster with the new #1 than the old one. In past years if we had breeze and could justify the #3 we did that at earliest possible minute and did much better in winds 15+ than in lighter wind. The old #1 we hated - we could never get it right because the draft was molded too far aft. We had to always run the jib halyard extremely tight just to get teh draft anywhere near where we wanted - also had to have forestay tension much higher than otherwise would be the case for same reason. The new #1 is just really really nice and a pleasure to trim. I have not heard Andrew swear at it once this year compared to the usual "I hate this sail" at least once during a race with the old one. Mind you the old one was likely a bit blown out. The main just looks pretty. It is very nice not to have to spend 40 minutes taping holes prior to a regatta or a major race, Despite that the old main still worked reasonably well but was still not as nice as the new one - because again it had lost some of its shape. Koob is in fact a pretty fast hull. Fun boat Mike crew Koobalibra C&C115 59115 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 9:35 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck So did Koobalibra place better and win more often with the new inventory? From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike Sent: December 3, 2013 9:29 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Old Sails Suck Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread. New main and #1 on Koobalibra C&C115 this past summer. The difference between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald tires in a snow storm From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Halyard Tension Reading the tread about halyards, and an earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out there: - I don’t race - only because there’s no-one racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures. But I like passing boats and hate it when boats pass me! My boat has been pretty well upgraded with all rope halyards; new adjustable genoa cars; self tailers; new traveller; barbour haulers; and new Dacron sails 5 seasons ago. I sail with a 135% genoa on a furler. While sailing I adjust the genoa halyard regularly to move draft in the sail as the wind changes. (I do the same with the main too!) Now the question: Late this season I bought a new high tech, Kevlar, carbon, kryptonite, 135% genoa. I’m assuming I don’t adjust halyard tension with this new sail as I don’t think the sail will distort like a Dacron sail. Similarly, when I buy a matching main, main halyard and Cunningham adjustment will become redundant. Am I correct with this assumption? If this is correct, are there any trimming adjustments with these new high tech sails that I should become familiar with? Do you trim these newer sails any different than the old Dacron sails? What new techniques do I need to absorb? Thanks, sam :-) C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta . No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/ Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3629/6387 - Release Date: 12/03/13 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil
Not aware of any Canadian source. Ask a friend visiting USA to pick you up a few bottles. It cannot be mailed. Maybe magic, but if the Atomic Master Moyer says - I do!___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI shaft seal
Ty alternate applications of hear and cold, using a prop puller. From: Bill Connon To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 2:01:04 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI shaft seal Eric Frank wrote: > Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on the > universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out with an impact wrench. > Worked beautifully. But now I am stuck again getting the shaft coupling off > the prop shaft. Removed the bolts that grip the coupling to the shaft and > also a square-headed bolt in the coupling that probably fits into a keyway in > the shaft, but I can't break the shaft loose from the coupling. I tried > holding the coupling from turning with a pipe wrench and trying to turn the > prop shaft (by gripping the sacrificial zinc on the shaft with a big vice > grips so as not to damage the shaft itself), but it didn't budge. And of > course I don't want to damage anything. > > One possibility would be to slide the shaft as far aft as possible (since it > is disconnected from the universal and the SS PYI piece (that acts as the > bearing up against the bellows) that is on the shaft slides forward on the > shaft) and then get a small wheel puller on the coupling so it would push the > shaft out of the coupling. I have no experience with wheel pullers but it > seems that it might work. > > But I would really value input from the list about how to proceed. > Apparently the salt water leaking around the bellows this summer rusted the > coupler sufficiently that it is really stuck. > > Eric Frank > Cat's Paw > C&C 35 Mk II > Mattapoisett, MA > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > Eric, I recommend Jims' suggestion of using longer bolts and a socket. It worked for me. Make sure that you tighten the nuts evenly so that the force on the coupling halves stays in a straight line. Bill Caprice 1 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List floorboards
Jig-a-Loo is the same stuff at less than half the price. From: Jim Watts To: 1 CnC List Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2013 2:22:12 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards McLube works well, too. I have a spot where a bulkhead rubs against the liner, one shot once a year and the squeaking stops. On 9 November 2013 09:35, Rich Knowles wrote: Pour a little dish detergent in the creaking areas. > >Rich > >On Nov 9, 2013, at 12:12, "Brad Crawford" wrote: > > >On the subject of floorboards, do others have squeaky, creaky floorboards like >we do? Have you found a cure for it? >> >>Thanks, >> >>Brad >>CnC 36 >>Seattle >> >>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of >>wwadjo...@aol.com >>Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:08 AM >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards >> >>Thanks to all for the responses. Confirmed many of my thoughts and >>concerns. >>Bill Walker >>C n C 36 >>Pentwater, Mi. >> >>Sent from my HTC >> >>- Reply message - >>From: "Ron Casciato" >>To: >>Subject: Stus-List floorboards >>Date: Fri, Nov 8, 2013 9:26 AM >> >> >> >>Bill: >> >> >>+++1 on the lining up the pattern.your eye notices the slightest >>mismatch and remember that you will be looking down at it every time you >>enter the boat. >> >> >>When we did the floors on my 38MKII last year, it took 2 4x8 panels and the >>panels were matched as well end to end. >> >> >>My floor has several openings (keel sump, mast plate, opening in front of >>the head door, and a small one about half way back from the keel opening. >>These are mainly for getting to the keel bolts, but you should address the >>raw edge of the plywood when you cut those openings. We cut the openings >>wider to accommodate a ¼’ teak strip, the same thickness of the floor and >>epoxied that strip to the inside edges of the openings. Mitered corners >>make for a nice finish. >> >> >>On the 38, the outside edges in the area of the stairway and the starboard >>lockers up front have a tapered edge due to the hull shape sliding down into >>the floor area. That was a chore to carefully taper the back side of the >>floor to match the slope of the hull. >> >> >>The end result was very nice and professional looking.I suppose that you >>could cut flush sides at the edge of the slope but on my boat that would >>narrow the floor and expose white fiberglass……….we decided not to do that so >>we finished it as above. >> >> >>TAKE YOUR TIME……….. Final suggestion,………. Finishing the top surface………Epoxy >>the underside is a must………..the edges as well ……….we used a product from >>Awlgrip which was a hard clear coat for the top surface over a sealer that >>was sanded smooth. It has to be sprayed, and hanging the panels upside down >>prevents dust from settling on the finish………. Two or three coats of that >>stuff produced a beautiful finish and it is harder than epoxy and varnish……I >>never expect to have to finish or treat it again. It also survives dropped >>wrenches, etc. without denting the surface.. >> >> >>A great project…TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the temperature and humidity >>for best results with epoxy or other finish. >> >> >>Good Luck, >> >> >>Ron C. >> >> >> _ >> >>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave >>Godwin >>Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 6:48 AM >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards >> >> >>Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a >>buddy who worked in a boatbuilder’s woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing >>it again this winter… >> >> >>++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time. >> >> >>Dave >> >>1982 C&C 37 - Ronin >> >> >>On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins >>wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >>Hi Bill >>Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then >>using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards >>to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of >>the same diameter) to trim. No clamps required, and you use the same screw >>holes to install the new boards. >> >>+1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to >>panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over! >> >> >> >>Graham Collins >>Secret Plans >>C&C 35-III #11 >> >>On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote: >> >> >>I am planning to remake floorboards this winter. I have old ones for >>pattern. Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has >>for patterning, cutting, finishing. Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish. >>Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided >>tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut. >>Thoughts welcome. >> >>Bill Walker >> >>36 >> >>Pentwater, Mi >> >>Sent from my HTC >> >> >>- Reply message - >>From: sam.c.sal...
Re: Stus-List Rudder Damage and possible blister
Firefly (27-III) was plagued with a rudder leak. I used to drill & fill each season. Then I decided to tap the holes (one higher up, one on the bottom edge) - two holes means faster drainage. In the spring I insert the hex-head plugs and go sailing. From: Ken Heaton To: cnc-list Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2013 9:46:09 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Damage and possible blister I have a 1/8" drain hole drilled straight up into the rudder at the very bottom. I leave it open. There are no cracks anywhere on my rudder. When my boat is out of the water on it's cradle and it rains water get into the rudder and drips out the drain hole at the bottom. The rain must get in through the top where the rudder shaft enters the rudder. I have heard it is next to impossible to stop that joint from leaking water so I haven't tried. I have no rust dripping out the bottom so that is a good sign (I hope). Ken H. On 16 October 2013 08:09, Steve Thomas wrote: > >Lots of us have rudders that are less than perfectly water tight. Many people >either drill a hole in the bottom so it can drain, >and patch it every spring, or install a permanent drain plug. The main worry >is to not let the water freeze in there. > >There is a C&C 38 at a marina here that was discovered upon haul out to have >dropped one half of the rudder skin in the water. The >exact time or place that this occurred is unknown, and the boat has sat for >over a year now while the owner contemplates his next >move. Water freezing over the winter is suspected to have played a role, but >the particular nature of the damage is due to the >fact that the rudder construction included two half skins that were glued >together. The rudder on my 27 seems to be constructed in >the same fashion, and water drips out of a crack in the seam every fall. The >water eventually stops dripping, so I figure that it >is self draining, but I have often wondered if it wouldn't be better to >"skin" the rudder seam with fibreglass matt and try to >fair it smooth afterward. Seeing that 38 sitting there with half a rudder has >made me think more seriously about preventative >measures but I have not done anything about it so far. > >Steve Thomas >C&C27 MKIII >Port Stanley, ON > > >-Original Message- >From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of David >Donnelly >Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 9:46 PM >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Subject: Stus-List Rudder Damage and possible blister > > >Upon haul out a week ago I noticed a prior repair that was made to the >rudder but has now given way. I don't know how I missed it on purchase >but there was brand new bottom paint which must have concealed it >enough. In any case it is now mine to deal with. It seemed to weep water >for a few days and had the copper (or what looks like it) from the VC17 >coming out. Most likely this is rust though.I have a link to the photos. > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/97287685@N03/10300503673/ > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/97287685@N03/10300359555/ > >Using Google I found a few hits with some similar repairs and horror >stories. I am ASSuming that it is fiberglass over foam. The foam is >probably soaked and I was considering drilling some small holes near the >bottom to see what drains out. I guess the real concern is not fixing >the area it is what damage may have occurred from water being in there >and corroding the post. > >In addition I found 2 other small areas that look like they were >repaired on the hull but now the repair looks to have degraded. I don't >have enough experience to know what a blister looks like but there is a >picture of this too. > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/97287685@N03/10300484023/ > >I have hammered all around the areas of both the rudder and the hull and >everything seems sound. I think the rudder is toast. What may be my >options for this. And of course the blister. > >Regards, > >David Donnelly >C&C 26 Mistress > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails
You might try Fx sails. They are in North Carolina. Very pleased with the main I bought from them. John Irvin FIREFLY BYC From: Marek Dziedzic To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 10:25:49 AM Subject: Stus-List New (replacement) sails Hi, The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown (stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy. We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?). Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or horror stories)? Regarding what: - cruising sails (we don't race) - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it is really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good sails for those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? too much, too little? - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not really)? - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to trim it correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%? I could easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer. - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't. Any thoughts about that? Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of? thanks Marek ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fw: Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III
Another strong vote for Garhauer. From: Peter Fell To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 9:43:52 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III Well, at this junction, the vang attachment will be a ‘cheap and cheerful’ solution ... considering my boat is sitting at the dock with the engine pulled for a rebuild. I did just splurge for new Harken blocks for the vang and the backstay tensioner (the PO had one block configured back there with the line tied off on the stern rail!). But I’m trying not to look at mainsail traveller and think how it would be much easier to replace it right now while the engine is out. From: Dennis C. Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 1:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III Actually, my suggestion was to get only the bracket and clip the rope vang to it.Yeah, a Garhauer rigid vang would be the absolute bomb!As for the pad eye, look at an investment cast one like a Schaefer 78-98. Locate it as far down the mast as possible. Drill and tap into the back Forward flat part) of the sail track. Install with flat head machine screws. Attach the rope vang and go sailing.I have a similar install on Touche' for an outhaul turning block and have done same on other boats.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA > >From: Gary Nylander >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 3:09 PM >Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III > > > >I second Dennis' suggestion to get a Garhauer rigid vang. I did - and Guido at >Garhauer had me send the profile of the mast and boom and they made pads to >fit both. Six or eight screws for each. I drilled and tapped the mast and boom >and screwed the pads in - done! > >We have a boomkicker on the J-80 I race on and I am not thrilled. It does the >job but seems to be more difficult to modulate how much tension you have. Just >my opinion. > >Gary >30-1 >- Original Message - >>From: randy >>To: 'Peter Fell' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 3:56 PM >>Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III >> >>Personally, I wouldn’t suggest that. At least not if I’m picturing your >>picture correct. Unless you unstep the mast, and take everything apart, >>wouldn’t you have to go all the way thru the cabin? Most of us on the list >>like to over drill holes in the core, and fill w/ epoxy, then drill for the >>mounting. If you just punch holes thru, I’d be concerned about eventual >>water intrusion thru the hole, which is undoubtedly solid something under the >>mast, but working its way to the core elsewhere. Just my two cents. Bails >>on masts are used for vangs all the time, especially on the smaller (no >>offense, me too! ;-) ) boats. But do also consider the addition of a rigid >>vang. I love my boom kicker, fits in the mast track slot, and no topping >>lift! Just my two cents. There’s lots of opinions here, you get to choose! >> >> >>randy >>Tamanawas >>29-II >>Hood River, OR >> >>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell >>Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 10:12 AM >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III >> >>Lots of good ideas here. Thanks guys. >> >>What about through-bolting an eye pad on the mast step bracket itself? I’d >>have to check the available space in there. >> >> >> >>From:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com >>Sent:Saturday, July 20, 2013 9:01 AM >>To:CnC >>Subject:Stus-List Fw: Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III >> >>+1 >>I've had a Garhauer rigid boom vang for about 10 years. Good price for a good >>chunk of stainless and a worthwhile upgrade. >>Also gets rid of the topping lift! >>sam :-) >>C&C 26 Liquorice >>Ghost Lake Alberta >>From: Dennis C. >>Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 9:09 AM >>To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Reply To: Dennis C. >>Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III >> >>Peter, >> >>A very good option would be install a hinged vang bracket near the bottom of >>your mast. Garhauer makes these for their rigid boom vangs and will custom >>make one to fit your mast. Their pricing is fairly reasonable. >> >>Dennis C. >>Touche' 35-1 #83 >>Mandeville, LA >> >> >>> >>> >>> >>>From:Peter Fell >>>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" >>>Sent: Friday, July 19, 2013 9:18 PM >>>Subject: Stus-List Boom Vang for C&C 27 Mk III >>> >>>My C&C 27 has a mast-step that looks like this: >>> >>>http://imageshack.us/a/img191/407/ubt7.jpg >>> >>>The previous owner had attached the 4:1 purchase boom vang to the 45 degree >>>side plate which has resulted in bending the side plate! >>> >>>It was recommended to me to use a boom/mast bail bolted across the vertical >>>portion of the mast-step bracket at the aft-most set of holes, with a bolt >>>and filler ‘tube’ to avoid compressin
Stus-List Spinlock Clutches
Firefly has 6 (2pairs of 3) on the cabintop. C&C 27 Mk III. They are starting to slip occasionally and I wonderwhat advice listers can provide. Change the springs? Change the jaws? Suggestions pppreciated. John Irvin BYC Ottawa___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Photo Album Update
So sorry to hear this. Good luck rebuilding. From: Stu To: C&C Email List Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2013 11:59:19 AM Subject: Stus-List Photo Album Update Updating the Photo Album is going to be pretty slow for a while due to an unfortunate incident. Gladys and I were away for a couple of nights and during that time, our house was broken into. We are still trying to determine what is missing but so far we have estimated close to $10,000 worth. My desktop computer, flat screen monitor, and accessories are gone – and almost all the software related to the Photo Album. All of the software and patterns for the decals, etc. is gone forever – at least they left the vinyl cutting machine. Fortunately the culprits did not value Gladys’ $8,000 worth of computerized embroidery machines and just left them alone. Mind you they broke one hoop for doing the hats and it is close to $100. They found every drop of alcohol in the house including the “bucket of booze” I won at Christmas time. I had a collection of 15 limited edition HO electric steam engines and every one is gone and will never be replaced or seen again. We had security in place and it was by-passed. They took the bulbs out the motion detection system, broke the door window and crawled in to remove a security bar preventing the door from opening. Sorry for the long blog – short part is we will be back up and running once the insurance companies decided on what value they are putting on the items. FWIW – don’t assume your house, car or boat is secure. Take every precaution you can and even then it will not be enough. Stu ‘n’ Gladys ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windows yet again
MAKE A GOOD TEMPLATE AND THEN HAVE YOUR LOCAL PLASTICS OUTFIT REPLICATE THEM. I TYPICALLY PAY ABOUT $75 FOR THE SIDE WINDOWS ON MY 27-III (sorry for the caps) From: Joel Aronson To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 1:11:12 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows yet again Jim, Lenses for my 35/3 were $195 each last year. They are frameless 1 piece plastic. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 12:11 PM, jim aridas wrote: Can anyone give me an idea of the cost for the windows themselves? >South Shore, if I am reading there web site correctly, looks like $200 ea >window? >Yes its long overdue to take care of the leaks. The black waterproof duct tape >starting to look a bit >tacky! >thanks, >Jim >Galaxy 34' 1982 > > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Barber Haulers
I use dinghy snatch blocks running through a block attached to the middle stanchion, then to a spilock snap. Works well on my 27-III From: Sam Salter To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Sunday, March 3, 2013 1:07:53 PM Subject: Stus-List Barber Haulers Anybody got barber haulers rigged on their genoa sheets? I've got Garhauer sliding genoa cars and am thinking about Barbour haulers to open the slot a bit when going up wind. Was thinking about coming off the toe rail. Anyone with successful setups that can share? Sam :-) C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fw: henry evans
Sailors would appreciate the security provided by Avast! - download for free. From: Rick Brass To: 'henry evans' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 11:50:23 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: henry evans Hey, Hank. No problems. Seldom does a week go by that one or more of my friends and acquaintances who use Yahoo for e-mail gets hacked and becomes a source for viruses and spam. Lately it seems to happen once or twice a day. Don’t know why Yahoo seems so vulnerable; perhaps it’s just that so many folks use it. McAfee does a really good job of sorting out the junk and isolating it. Rick Brass From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of henry evans Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 8:27 AM To: bli...@genhouse.com; bcra...@cogeco.ca; fb...@keystoneemc.com; CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Fw: henry evans Sorry, Got hacked. Hank - Forwarded Message - From: Terry To: henry evans Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 11:46 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List henry evans Fuck You!!! From:henry evans Sent:Thursday, February 21, 2013 6:11 PM To:bli...@genhouse.com ; bcra...@cogeco.ca ; Donald Briggs ; Jim Broich ; fb...@keystoneemc.com ; Riley Burch ; C Life Robert Kay Creech ; CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject:Stus-List henry evans http://loansite.info/mm/znkjo7k842mlekebi5fseqlg06rae5?8n83mkpmnzfmu550axra8cbl1 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com Terry Johnson S/V Ozymandias E-mail: tj...@comcast.net Website: http://www.tj622.com/ ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List jib tracks
I put the garhauer adjustables on Firefly (27-III) with excellent results. From: Chuck S To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 12:45:42 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List jib tracks Hi Pete, Our boat has the inner tracks, but we haven't taken the time to evaluate them. I'm told they are supposed to be used in light air when you want a big belly in the sail. The inner track lets you tension the leech properly with less on the foot so the shape is fuller down low. The usable wind range is small, maybe 4 to 6 or 8 knots. I've read that below that, you want a flatter shape cause "wind doesn't like to bend". Above that, you want to sheet to the normal track so you don't backwind the main, and in higher winds, barberhaul to the rail. I hope the more experienced listers chime in so I can learn more about these. On our boat the 153% and 144% are the only sails that come back far enough to use the inner tracks. We had several light wind races where I thought these tracks would be optimum, but my crew did not want to experiment. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: "Pete Shelquist" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 9:57:52 AM Subject: Stus-List jib tracks I have a 37 and have seen drawings with short jib tracks set forward on the cockpit coaming, just inside and above the main jib tracks. I have extra jib cars and track laying around and am considering adding these, but have heard they really don’t make a difference. Do others use these? What size sail and wind speeds do they work best? IE 150s and only light air? Thanks, ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows
I am a great believer in butyl tape, double sided, which you can purchase from an auto parts supplier as windshield installing tape. From: Joel Aronson To: "secondwind...@comcast.net" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 11:36:07 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows Paul Sikaflex or Dow 795. Cast acrylic ( plexiglass) Joel Aronson On Oct 11, 2012, at 11:31 PM, paul waldeck wrote: It’s time I replaced the large windows in the salon of my C & C 29-2. >I’ve seen many posts on how to dothis. >Is Silkaflex still the bedding material of choice? >Whatis thewindowmaterialof choice.I want clearmaterialwhichwill not craze >(like the current windows) andhave good resistance to UV. >Thanks in advance. >Paul Waldeck >C & C 29-2 >"Second Wind" ___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Info
No oil filter on mine! From: Glen Eddie To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 11:52:28 AM Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Info Hello everyone, I just want to confirm that I am not crazy. Is there an oil filter on the Atomic 4 (other than the drip pan at the bottom of course)? I can neither find one nor any reference to an oil filter in Moyer's manual. Additionally, if anyone has a symmetrical spinnaker for a C&C35 Mk I that they want to sell, lets talk. Glen Eddie Freya IV ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Great Lakes Water Levels
Similar issue on the Ottawa River (Lac Deschenes). From: Paul Fountain To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2012 4:28:17 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Great Lakes Water Levels Rich, It's a serious issue on the Great Lakes right now - many clubs and marinas on Lake Ontario are not accessible to boats drawing over 5 1/2 feet some are pulling deeper drafts already. I've had to extend my dock skirt down 2+ feet so I don't go under the dock. On the upper lakes I have friends with cottages on islands that are having to extend docks and take other actions to get to the islands - no fun! Wish we had tides even wind tides right now! Paul. :) On 2012-10-03, at 3:54 PM, Rich Knowles wrote: I don't understand all the flap over water levels. Ours goes up and down over 6' every few hours. Up to 40' on the Bay of Fundy. No sweat. > >Rich Knowles >Indigo - C&C LF38 >Halifax - Nova Scotia > > > > >On 2012-10-03, at 16:14, Frederick G Street wrote: > > >We don't see much lake effect snow on Superior, as we're upwind of >everything... >> >> >>-- Fred >> >>On Oct 3, 2012, at 2:12 PM, "Neil Andersen" >>wrote: >> >> >>I have heard that there is a call for a greater than usual volume of Lake >>effect snowfall this year due to the higher than usual Lake temperature… >>> >>>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick >>>G Street >>>Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 11:50 AM >>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Great Lakes Water Levels >>> >>>Speaking just for Lake Superior, we're in a drought situation here right >>>now, so inflow is much reduced; but the biggest culprit seems to be the >>>warmer than usual winters, which lead to significantly reduced ice cover, >>>which in turn leads to greatly increased evaporation. >>> >>>Fred Street -- Minneapolis >>>S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( >>> >>>On Oct 3, 2012, at 10:38 AM, Robert Mazza wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>>OK Stu, here's a dumb question: >>> >>>If the water is leaving the Upper Great Lakes faster than normal, why isn't >>>the level of the Lower Great Lakes rising with all that influx of water? We >>>keep our boat in Hamilton, Ontario, and the water level at the fixed docks >>>at the Royal Hamilton Yacht Club is so low now that I have to sit on my butt >>>on the dock with my legs dangling in space before a gingerly lower myself on >>>to the deck of Trillium now several feet below dock level. I can't see how >>>putting baffles in the St. Clair River is going to improve the water level >>>on Lake Ontario. There seems to be something more at work here than water >>>flow through the St. Clair River. It probably has to do more with lack of >>>snow fall and snow build up in the winter with resulting reduced run off in >>>the spring, as well as changes in precipitation generally. Global warming >>>(or Climate Change) perhaps? I don't have an answer, but this does seem to >>>be a problem facing the whole Great Lakes, not just the Upper Lakes. >>> >>___ >>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >___ >>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >>CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> ___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Engine compartment ventilation
I replaced my vents with white plumbing elbows. Not elegant but effective. From: Don Wagner To: Pierre Tremblay ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 10:04:13 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine compartment ventilation Pierre All the C&Cs that I have seen do have some form of engine compartment ventilation. My C&C 41 has a diesel engine, and it came with a typical system. It has an inlet vent and an exhaust vent mounted on the transom, with flexible hoses leading to the bilge of the engine compartment. A 12 volt blower, switch activated, is installed in the exhaust vent line. I hope this helps you Don Wagner C&C 41 CB 1986, Hull # 93 Der Baron - Original Message - >From: Pierre Tremblay >To: C&C Mailing List >Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 9:22 AM >Subject: Stus-List Engine compartment ventilation > > >Hi everyone, > >Since June 22th, I'm the proud and happy owner of a C&C 38-3, 1988 WK & >TM (C&C41 mast). > >As all diesel engine C&C, there is no engine compartment ventilation. I would >like to add forced ventilation while motoring and after coming to the dock to >evacuate heat and odors from the engine compartment. To help with the odor, I >will do the "crank case ventilation to intake" modification with a Jegs >air/oil separator before spring launch, . > >Was there any 38-3 with gas engine, so I can copy the original installation? >If not, what type of vent are used on gas engine C&C, and where are they >located (transom, deck, ...). I have a MOB pole tube in my transom that could >integrate a stealth vent. > >Pierre Tremblay >Avalanche >1988 C&C 38 mk3, sail # 54988___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sailing Website (racing and cruising)
Get on Scuttlebutt From: Martin DeYoung To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 7:57:40 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Website (racing and cruising) Edd, The web site Pressure-Drop.us has a decent mix of sailing news, features and forums without the wild west style entertainment seen on Sailing Anarchy. ThreesheetsNW.com does a good job with regional news and features (linked blogs). The Daily Sail web site covers serious international racing well. For in depth coverage of an event like the Vendee or Volvo races I will use several sites and the official race web site. The addition of Yellow Box tracking was entertaining for this year’s Vic-Maui, Pacific Cup and the Single Handed Transpac. I rarely contribute to SailNet and similar sites as the discussions tend to be at the same basic level year in and year out and are very well covered. I never got into the Latt’s and Att’s type sites as I rarely am looking for stories of alcohol fueled miss-adventure and pot luck dinners. I also do not need more magazines or web features about $1,000,000 boats with captains and cooks. When I need that fix I buy a glossy magazine and drool over the latest super boat, usually while sitting in a airport. What I would like to see is a site that covers the racer/cruiser segment of the market. (No hopped up 20 something sea lawyers racing all carbon boats on windward/leeward inshore courses or dreamers that will never actually own a boat but constantly post what if questions.) Features about races and voyages that go somewhere interesting on affordable boats and the people that do their own boat maintenance and upgrades is more what I am thinking. The cnc-list type discussions involving dedicated owners serious about improving their boats and skills is a good example of content that I currently enjoy. Advertising that becomes annoying chases me off sites quickly, boat related adverts with pretty girls are normally tolerated. I do pay for access to some types of forums (TDR for Dodge/Cummins trucks for example) when the quality/value of content is above average. The ThreesheetsNW and Pressure-Drop forums are very quiet when compared to Sailing Anarchy. Finding the balance between moderating the conversation to prevent anarchy and smothering the conversation to death may be difficult. Hopefully that is the type of feedback you are looking for. I hope you are successful. Martin Calypso 1971 C&C 43 Seattle From:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 9:41 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Sailing Website (racing and cruising) All, I'm looking to start up a new sailing website dedicated to racing and cruising news, events and forums. Something similar to Sailing Anarchy without all the, um, anarchy. There would be, of course, links to Stu's site and other boat information sites. As I formulate what to feature and what not to feature, I'd appreciate any input you may have as to what you'd look for in such a site and what things you've seen on others ties that annoy you. My hope is to launch in late 2012 or early 2013. You know, after the boat is away for the winter. :-) All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37/40+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A4 Engine alignment
Ditto on the MMO. I have to go to the US to get it every couple of years. From: dwight veinot To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 5:34:14 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Engine alignment The A4 likes Marvel Mystery Oil, I don't know why because it is a mystery...anyway if you can find some Marvel Mystery Oil add some to your lube oil and the tick may go away...you could be very surprised...also add some to your fuel tank...I think lots of folks have used it in their A4's with satisfactory outcomes On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 12:26 PM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote: Hello all, > >Well the yard Aligned the engine for me yesterday and she runs great! I was >puttering around the harbor yesterday and the boat motors very well >and maneuvers very predictably! I'm happy! > >The A4 does seem to tick though. Like a lifter noise. Does anyone know if >the atomic 4 is supposed to sound that way? > > > >-- Original Message -- >From: "Marek Dziedzic" >To: >Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Engine alignment > >Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 13:24:11 -0400 > > >This is from a different boat, but it is generic enough. have a look. > >(simple instructions on aligning the engine - see attachment) > >http://www.catalina27.org/images/c270coup.jpg > >Marek >(C&C 24 Fennel) >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sailing gloves, now sandals
If you wear a sandal make sure it's one with a toe cap! From: Chuck S To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2012 9:02:02 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing gloves, now sandals Dwight, You are probably OK, but had to chastise my son for wearing sandals on the boat. He lost one when he went forward and it was a major distraction. Better to be barefoot. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: "dwight veinot" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2012 5:08:19 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing gloves Colin You sound like a sailing animal...I sort of agree with gloves because I never use them either...they seem to compromise everything I do but I do relaxed sailing now...when I was racing and trimming the genoa and spinnaker I appreciated those gloves sometimes As for feet, I like to protect my toes so I try to remember my deck shoes...letely I heve been going in sandals and crocs and that works OK for what I do Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Colin Kilgour Sent: August 9, 2012 5:49 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing gloves I'm not convinced that size matters. I think I have the biggest boat on the list... and I never wear gloves (unless they're winter gloves for warmth) When I was a kid racing Lasers, I'd go through a pair every few weeks it seemed, so I finally just decided to toughen up my hands and save some dough in the process. I never looked back. I think it's a matter of personal preference, but I'd rather put up with the odd cut or blister than have to wear gloves all the time. Also, if you're a 'glove wearer' and you forget or lose your gloves one day, you're pooched because your virgin hands are going to get shredded. By comparison, I almost never forget my hands. Of course, I take the same approach to shoes on board as well. There are very few instances where I'll see the need to put shoes on - a crappy (slippery) deck, absence of toe rails, low life lines, etc. But absent that, I get a fine grip with bare feet. Cheers Colin On 8/9/12, Walt Dickie wrote: > Just went from gloves with all fingertips exposed to gloves with just the > index finger exposed. Raced last night and got a finger burn! > > From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] > On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic > Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 11:31 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing gloves > > I know people who sail without gloves; I can't. > > I used Ronstan's that lasted the longest (but I was sailing less then). > Gills last a season at best (though, they are quite comfortable). I have > quite good experience with West marine - they were, so far, the best value > for the money (I bought a couple of pairs when they were at $20 (CAD!)). > > I also find that the same gloves differ in performance between pairs. This > must depend on the leather and other materials sued in manufacturing. > > I also noticed that it pays to check in what state the gloves are _before_ > you put them to the test. Wearing gloves and being burnt by the moving line > is not overly enjoyable. > > My experience with any work gloves (Home Depot or Canadian Tire) is that > they are quite good, as long as they are dry. If you get them wet, they > don't dry that quickly and become a nuisance. > > All of the above don't help much when it gets cold. We do our haul out in > late October and the weather Gods somehow always know about it and send cold > and wet our way (we have some rain or sleet 8 times out of 10). I once used > the waterproof gloves during the haul out and they worked quite well (lasted > till lunch). On the other hand these gloves are not very conducive to doing > any precise work. > > When you combine wet and cold you maybe looking at some high performance > gloves (which means high price, as well). For skiing I always use Auclair > gloves (the racing kind, leather), but most of the time they don't need to > cope with real wet (we usually ski way below 0C). > > Btw. I wonder what people prefer: all fingers cut or just the two? My > experience is that if you use all cut fingers gloves, you will get burnt, > eventually. > > Marek > C&C 24 "Fennel" > Ottawa > -- Sent from my mobile device ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2196 / Virus Database: 2437/5189 - Release Date: 08/09/12 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
